How To Clean Six Hundred Feet Of Model Railroad Track
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2021
- My HO scale model railroad in my basement has a total of 606' (184 m) of electrified track. I've tried various methods over the years but the best results I've had so far is also the simplest method. This can be a very heated topic and I know there's a lot of opinions out there so here's one more : )
Results may vary! - Розваги
I use old cloth and CRC (without silica) on my layout. However, I possess very little Nickel Silver track and use large amounts of Brass track with varying degrees of grime/oxidation. To boot, nearly all my rolling stock is vintage plastic wheeled cars which will leave residue on the tracks after a while. I’ve found the CRC and cloth works well for problem spots or heavily tarnished track segments and the simple cleaning with a cloth gets most of the filth with no issue. My current cloth is a pice of quality fabric. I tried isopropyl alcohol on some of my more messy track pieces and cleaned it up nice, but it does lead to more oxidation reactions as the alcohols deprotonate (lose an H) when exposed to an electric current. Unless you wipe off the isopropyl alcohol you end up adding a layer of grime to the track, since all does not evaporate off.
I love the Loram rail grinders and am trying to figure out the mechanism for a scratchbuilt model that would apply minute amounts of isopropyl before a series of scrubber cars (the issue is getting the scrubbers to stay clean sufficiently long enough to do a good 200’ before replacing the brushes/cleaning them). I’m also attempting to figure out how to apply minute amounts of CRC after the scrubbers (as needed) to increase conductivity
Love the idea of a Loram or Herzog train that looks like a maintenance of way train but is actually a functional track cleaning train. I'd like to try something similar eventually, I think a vacuum car in the lead would be good too to pick up the dust before the cleaning cars come along.
The sock is a great idea! Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine did a great article several months back explaining why different chemicals are better or worse for track cleaning. Cannot remember the exact issue, sorry. The phenomena is “micro-arcing” that causes the bulk of grime on the rails. IPA is one of the worse things you can use and most people have been using it for years, including me. You will be pleasantly surprised that the strangest chemicals are the best. Cheers Brendon.
It's a fantastic article, a couple other viewers mentioned it as well. Thanks for sharing your experience Brendon.
so do I used rubbing alcohol I think 71 % is 91 higher stronger trains do just fine after use so mini people say different things idk 🤷♂️ what to use I'm all confused
It was cool seeing those long runs
Ben, I think most of the dirt problems come from winter time
use of the furnace, summer time
in my basement doesn't have as much dust floating around when
the furnace is shut down!!!!
Right now my layout is in the very
early stage of a 15x17 plywood
central CONRAIL empire!!!!!!
Thanks! Yes I get quite a bit of dust too just because of gravity and all the activity on the floors above the layout. Long live Big Blue!
Great model railroad! I love the black skirts around the layout!!
I suggest the answer to why this works lies in the reason why we use nickel-silver for our rail. As I understand it - Nickel Silver oxidizes like any other metal, but it's oxidizing layer is electrically conductive. So maybe cleaning solutions / bright-boys and other abrasive cleaners not only remove the dirt, but also the electrically conductive protection layer - leaving the rail susceptible to attracting more dirt, whereas a quick wipe just removes the dirt.
I also recall reading somewhere the black 'dirt' is created by a zillion tiny electrical arcs as the locomotive wheels roll along the track, so maybe loco wheel metal composition is a significant variable in dirt accumulation.
I think the biggest variable is probably how dusty the room is - many basements have no ceiling for instance, while others share space with cars, woodworking equipment and other dust-creating appliances.
Just my 2cents worth hoping someone more knowledgeable can explain the properties of Nickel-Silver better than I.
Thanks for sharing your insights! Woodworking in the area contributes to extra dust on the railhead, I notice this right away anytime I use my table saw.
I have 200' ft. of brass track. I clean it every other time i run my trains. No problem whatsoever...NONE. Waaay more realistic than nickel silver. Real life steel rails are brown..only shiny on top when trains run regularly.
Why is while watch this I could Fred Rodgers taking out the old socks from the closet after one of the shows and cleaning the trolly tracks. It just seems like that is how Mr Rodgers would do it. Well done.
Haha I'm flattered, thanks!
Often times low tech works best. I've used a rag in the past but the sock bumps it up to the next level. Worked great. Another tool in the arsenal against grime! Thanks Pal!
Keep it simple! Worn out socks are a dime a dozen : )
Joe Fugate produced an article regarding "cleaning products" which helped me a lot, I was using 99% pure Isopropyl Alcohol and found the "black gunk" getting worse. I believe some of that is carbon due to micro arcing between the wheel flange/face the Iso being a "polar" liquid promotes this process. I now use kerosene which is "non polar" and it has made a huge difference in the production of the "black gunk" and thus trains running so much better and tracks remaining cleaner for a lot longer.
I'd be a little cautious about using Kerosene, because it will eat up plastics. Even tiny amounts at small amounts of exposed plastics near frogs of switches and rail crossings at grade will eventually start to deform.
@@rodneykantorski736 I dab a very small amount on a rag and wipe the section dry with another kero free rag , no issues so far but thanks for the tip.
Fantastic article, another viewer mentioned it as well. I saw WD40 Contact Cleaner was number 2 on the list of best non-polar cleaners. I am going to try something similar based on everyone's feedback. Thanks for sharing!
New sub here! I like the sock idea. Its one that I have used in the past after soldering rails. Its also good to make sure you dont have any mis-alignments over time
Thanks so much Ray and welcome aboard! Yep, the sock picks up the slightest misalignment of rail. Small gaps too.
Im always amazed about this hobby how we can lern tips from others...the 2 finger thing cleaning both rails at same time briliant i cant wait to try it
I need three fingers, O-gauge 3-rails.
Best thing about UA-cam for sure, the information sharing is awesome.
Haven't personally tried it but I bet you could do three rail as well.
Very nicely put together video and very entertaining as well. Thanks for posting this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m thinking Ben needs to come to Texas and see what time he can clean the Mesquite Belt in...
I’ll feed you good food if you set a new record, which I’m sure you will😉
I’ll even provide the old socks...
Another great tip for those of us with big layouts; will defiantly be cleaning out a drawer I need to anyway.
My wife will be some impressed, she may even buy me new socks!
Thanks Ben for the tip & video!!
How about you provide the cold beverages and I'll bring the socks! : )
That’s an awesome technique. I’ll have to try it. Thanks for sharing
Give it a go! Always satisfying to see how much grime you clean off the rail.
I use paper towel and an electronic cleaner…one that is safe on plastic, and evaporates quickly. Put some in the paper towel and rub it on the track. Cleans the track and it’s non-abrasive. Best method I’ve found so far…everything works better.
Thanks for sharing!
A chunk of cotton t shirt, sometimes dampened with track cleaner, sometimes dry. In between I run a Masonite pad under a boxcar to burnish the rails. So far, so good! Thanks for the video👍
Thanks for sharing your method!
I use contact cleaner from crc. They have a conductive kind and a non conductive kind. I use the conductive kind on a paper towel or a microfiber cloth and go over the rail heads. As far as cleaning turnout contact points I usually use the same stuff on a gunsmiths pointed Q tip and get in there. I used to use alcohol and it did a bunch of damage to my track by pitting. After I sanded the rail heads down with super fine sand paper (7k grit) and then burnished the rail heads with a flat washer I now have to clean track maybe every 3 or 4 months
Great information, thanks for sharing John.
Old White T-shirts cut up into approximately 8" squares. Both sides can be used until they look like your sock at the end of your video! Honestly, we use only elbow grease unless we find a stubborn spot, and then just a little Goo Gone. We have a whole cleaning train ... which works good for the tunnels, but that's about it. Josh and I (from Nsmodeler24) think you have a great layout! We enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work!
Tom
Thanks for sharing Tom! Appreciate the support from you guys. I have been a long time subscriber and get a lot of inspiration your layout. -Ben
I've had an ho scale RR for 30 years and had to clean track monthly for quality operation. Last summer, 2020, I applied CRC liquid through a cmx cleaning car to all track and have not had to clean again so far.
Thanks for sharing your experience Russell!
Bad for Traction tires?
Fishplate films has a great cleaning method and an explanation for why cleaning with IPA has a negative effect.
You're absolutely right, Gregg knows a thing or two about electricity too! @fishplateFilms
Great video. Thanks for sharing your method. I will definitely try this out.
Glad it was helpful!
I use Aluminum rim cleaner. Apply a thin layer on some cork, spread it around, let dry and buff with clean cork. I clean maybe twice a year. It’s all about preventing the oxidation. I will still use a rag or sock to clean some of the areas where gunk builds up
Thanks Jeff! That sounds like another non-polar option. I am going to try the NO-OX which I think is similar.
It seems more and more people are moving away from chemicals and cleaner cars and honestly it makes sense.
I've just used paper towels for clearing my O scale track when it gets gunked up and most of the time that works really well, sure certain areas require more work than others so just add some more elbow grease to it.
May have to try socks in the future, though all of mine are black so...whoops? Lol 🤣
Thanks for another great video man!
Any dry cloth would work, I don't use paper towel because quite a bit of paper dust comes off it from clipping the rail joints as I go by.
Enjoyed the video today nice update.Diesel dave like it well done.
Thanks Dave!
I do both. What you do after I clean with a cleaning solution. However I now use "Inox" to clean. Well not really. It is anti-corrosion and increase electrical connectivity. So I hardly ever clean my track. I learned about it from friends in Europe and Australia. Not sure you can find it in Canada. But I just spray it on a sock and wipe it on. What a time saver. I don't know if it would work for you. But it sure works fo me.
Thanks for sharing your experiences Vincent. Yeah I am not sure I can get Inox in Canada, I don't recall seeing it. But we for sure have WD40 Contact Cleaner and a few other similar products.
@@BArailsystem Yeah I tried the WD40. It has a lot of water in it. And for me caused unforeseen issues. I did find mine after some searching at Ace Hardware or Walmart. It's about $14 American. But a Can will last you a life time.
@@Vman7757 I don't think the WD-40 caused your water problems. The title "WD-40" literally means "Water Displacement, recipe # 40", so there is not water in WD-40. But with China making so much counterfeit crap, who knows what you really got. I've been using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Oz. ($9 at omazon) and it seems to work with no issues. What kind of problems did you have? Hope this helps out.
@@thomream1888 I still have WD40. It just didn't clean like I had hoped. I did find issues with attacking some plastics so I just don't use it anymore. However "Inox" has made so I clean my track maybe once every three of four months? Everything is running with very little or no issues. And one can is lasting a very long time. I still have a full can after two years.
@@Vman7757 That's really great to hear! Track cleaning is a major hassle, I don't know anyone who really enjoys it. But it is a good time to really check your trackwork, wiring and such. Glad to hear what's working for you, Vincent. Keep up the good work!
I recall from reading back issues when Westcott and Odegard were making the push for nickel-silver rail over (then standard) brass rail, that the selling point was that it's oxidation was conductive (unlike brass, where you had to clean off the oxide buildup as well as the dirt).
Right oxide my be conductive but black carbon from microscopic sparks is not. 👍
My childhood figure 8 layout had brass track and we cleaned it with steel wool lol, no wonder we couldn't keep anything running.
It sure doesn't, its interesting how some wheels will pick it up too. I checked my grain train recently and about 5/32 cars had the thick black carbon build up on all 8 wheels. It's like crayon wax.
iso is a polar solvent it attracts dust and grime like flies to a jam pot you can't beat good old lighter fluid if you want to use solvent!
I'm w/ you as for years I have not used any cleaning liquids and I too have a large layout.. I have a stack of "shoe- shine" cloths I've accumulated from hotels as they have a tight woven fabric pattern.. and a lil 'elbow-grease' 😋
Even better! Shoe shine cloths > an old sock
The sock is a good idea. You can see when it gets dirty and you need to move to a clean spot. The problem with rubbing alcohol and other chemicals of the nature is they dry out what they come in contact with. They evaporate so quickly they take moisture with them. I think that causes a build up in static electricity the rails give off drawing more dirt and dust. Most of the black on rails is carbon from the microscopic sparks caused by the unevenness of the rail and wheels when coming into contact with each other. Even at the microscopic level the grain of metal is rough and will never be smooth to another piece. So we need to keep the track hydrated and that microscopic uneven grain of the metal all the way out to scratches you can see on the rails filled with something to make them smooth eliminating the sparks and eliminating the static draw of dirt to the rails and the carbon build up from the sparks. Oxguard to the rescue. Its conductive and will not take the hydration out of the rail as it dries. It puts on a microscopic film that is dry to the touch and does not make the rails greasy. Kind of like a gymnast putting chalk on there hands to help in giving more grip and add a kind of lubricating factor for there hands to keep down friction at the same time. Oxguard reminds me of how gymnast chalk seems to work two totally opposite ways at the same time. Oxguard keeps the track from drying out preventing static build up and fills the uneven surface by leaving a conductive film but a film that doesn't effect grip of the wheels on the rails. This will work if you use it in very small amounts and not glob it on. Just coat the rail head very lightly with your finger. Just enough to see it is looking wet and coating the entire railhead. Clean all the track and rolling stock wheels with white mineral spirits, or your choice of non drying cleaner, then apply the Oxguard when the rails dry. Do this once a year and run all you want. It will work if done correctly. But if the sock works for you and that's what you want to do then by all means continue. It seems to work really well at getting the rails clean and it also seems that since you've been doing it that way for so long the dirt and carbon doesn't stick to the rail that much. Looked to clean off very easily where as if you add liquid and start smearing the crud around it seems like it would make it harder to clean now and the next time. I guess because you've not used evaporative cleaner that that helps keep the track hydrated and the static draw down. Whatever works for one person might not work for another and we are in the hobby to have fun and doing things your own way, a way you're comfortable with makes it more enjoyable and fun for the individual in the end so I say do what works for you and keeps you having fun. It doesn't hurt to try new things though. That's how I found this cleaning way I prefer which is different from the previous preferred way. Stay well. -Wil 👍
I'll have to give "Oxguard" a try. Thanks !
Thanks for sharing William! I will give Oxgaurd a try.
I use my cmx on the hidden sections and harder to reach parts but I only use it dry rather than filling with a solution. After a couple of runs with a new piece of material fitted each time the tracks seem to be clean. The cleaning solution did seem to attract the dirt more atb Andy
Thanks for sharing your experience with the CMX cleaning car.
Great video and excellent Hot topic! Well done! I use an old shirt rags, and sock as well (with rubbing alcohol) and it works. Running trains often also seems to make a difference. Next video: What is the best DCC system .. HAHAHAHAA. Again well done Ben
Thanks Syl! hahah which is the best DCC system, that could be a heated topic. After that we'll do which scale is best :O hahaha!
@@BArailsystem Awesome!!! Hahahahaha!
I used brass track on several layouts and never had to clean it. And all my cars had plastic wheels. Then local hobby shop only sold nickle silver track as i expanded the layout. Then after changing all the cars wheels to metal i still have to clean the rails. I'll take brass any day but it is hard to find.
Alcohol actually causes the wheel contact to make micro sparks( pitting ) .long explanation for this. I just saw a video on using a no-ox on rails to stop that.
Seems to be the way to go, I am going to try it.
@@BArailsystem i been using no ox id about one month now, great stuff, but you only need a tap with your finger, dont rub just touch your finger to it
For a maint. clean I use a dry shop paper towel similar as you do and at about the same interval. For deep clean, like after messy work on the track/area, I use Min Spirits - same for new track. If I use MS then it gets a light application of No Ox. Think of it as washing the car is the maint clean and waxing the car is the No-Ox. NEVER will I use a Bright boy!!!
Thanks for another video!
Bright boy bad! I'm looking forward to trying the No-Ox.
@@BArailsystem NO ox ? Is that the gray stuff for aluminum and copper wire ? I do high voltage electrical work we used a (No ox) product but it sticky and Messi is that the same?
YOU ARE CORRECT THAT THE MAIN LINE IS MOST INPORTENT. THE AMOUNT OF STOCK CARS IN THE LOOP PREVENT ANY DIRT OR DAMAGE. USE CR 229 IF YOU WANT ANY HELP. YOUR PROCESS WORKS FOR YOU VERY IMPRESSIVE AND INFORMATIVE VIDEO, I APPRECIATE YOU AND YOUR VIDEO JIM KAMMERER OF PHILADELPHIA PA THANK YOU.
I also use the sock method. Like Andrew say's mineral spirits works very well.
Thanks John!
From an electronic engineer's point of view, you are making an electrical connection by contact only. Not the best type of electrical connection, but the best we can do with rolling stock. Wheels to the rails create micro arcs and make micro cracks and abrasions. The black junk your sox is cleaning up is charged oxidation which works like a poor insulator. I've seen the video that Bob A has mentioned in the comments below. It talks about Polar (Bad) products vs. NON-Polar (Good) products. They should all make rails and wheels out of Stainless Steel, still conducts but little to no oxidation. Kudos that you can clean your track in that short of time ! Watch the video, very carefully and make notes. watch it a second time about the "NO-OX-ID" part. Try it on a text loop. ALSO, It's NOT ONLY the track, BUT the engines and rolling stock as well.
If you have a lot of steam engines, remember, ones without traction do not grip as well. Good Luck.
William B below mentioned a "Oxguard" product. I have not tried it yet, but he said it was less greasy.
Wow thanks for sharing that information Mark. Very interesting and well explained. I second that motion to switch to stainless steel rail. Traction shouldn't be an issue on my layout as I only have one section that is 1% grade. But for anyone with a helix or stiffer grades, need to be very careful about applying too much and running into wheel slip issues.
Best I've ever use is the purple cleaner from Life-Like. Discontinued years ago, don't know why. Can still be found online sometimes. I scored a full bottle not long ago. It's so good there are no ingredients or warning info on the label!
Mystery cleaning solution, love it! If it works, it works.
Isopropyl alcohol leaves a residue that allows gunk to stick more readily! I do not use alcohol for that reason!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Lol, nice to see another video. As good a manual methods are any thoughts on a future Herzog consist for fun? Keep up the awesome updates.
Possibly! I would like to eventually have a cleaning train with a few different cars. It would be awesome to have a powered vacuum cleaner car, a magnet car to pick up any metal bits and then a couple CMXs. Thanks for the comment!
Great idea, something I use, works great.. Gary
No matter what you use to clean the rails with, if you use NO-OX afterwards, it will be 6-8 months or more before you have to clean again. And it will improve your electrical pickup on the locos and lighted cars. ...Claude
Thanks Claude, I am going to try it!
Ron’s Trains N Things did a great detailed Cleaning Solutions Vid in April I think it was. Alcohol is an electrical conductor that attracts the Oxidation to multiply.
It’s more technical than that, but he covers it all.
Agreed, I did what he said and it was amazing. Ive don’t what Ben has done and everything else and this so far has been the best. Id give it a go Ben
I am going to try it out, sounds like it works very well based on everyone's feedback. Thanks!
Hi there....isopropyl alcohol leaves residue after it supposedly evaporates....therefore it attracts dust and grime super fast. Cheers Tony
I learned the hard way : ) Thanks Tony
Hi, Your method is great, cost little, is fairly easy, is effective, leaves no residue, takes minimal time, and has one big problem! It only works on layouts with no scenery ! ... Please take no offence, but I can not even see half of my track let alone, reach it with all the trees, buildings, telephone pole wires, tunnels, etc. In my opinion the best solution (and always has been ) is ROUND TOPED Rails ! ! ! ... There is no surface for dirt to accumulate, if the top of the rail is NOT flat. Did you, or do you EVER remember cleaning your Lionel track? Rapido N scale track, same story. Conductivity is way, way better because all of the car's and locomotive's weight is riding on such a very thin line of rail ( more pressure, smaller area ). Think of it like your rail was made of razor blades ( not that you would ever want that, but the effect would be amazing ! Still to this day, I don't understand why anyone has never produced HO scale rail with a round top. Now don't get wrong ( I'm really into scale ), but think about it, would a round top Ho rail really be that noticeable? Great vid. Thanks, ... George
This is a very good point George and I should've mentioned it. It's all fine and dandy when you have a wide open unfinished layout like mine. But once there's more scenery, it will definitely become more difficult to clean. Especially if your layout has tunnels, centenary wires or something else that blocks access from above.
That's a very interesting idea for rounding the top of the rail. I would think they could put a slight round on the top of it and it wouldn't be noticeable in any thing smaller than O scale.
@@BArailsystem Thanks for understanding. Round rail is the way to go, My 1st N scale layout had all Rapido track and I never ever had to clean the track !... Rapido didn't even make a track cleaning car, because there was no need for one. It was never an issue. I wish I had the space you have, your layout is great. Thanks ... George
I do that too with old sheets and use wooden paint stir sticks
Bare wood cleans really well
It sure does! I didn't mention it but that's how I clean the rails after doing ballast or soldering where there is significant residue left on the rails. 1 1/2'' wide strip of hardboard or plywood takes that stuff off easily and leaves the rail shiny.
Le sock technique. One of a kind!
Tried and true, Le Sock technique!
You also get cool patterns on the sock, just in case you want to wear them again.
Bonus!
thanks this helped me out a lot
Glad to hear!
Cleaning the track is good but remember to clean the wheels.
I haven't spent a lot of time cleaning wheels. On my layout, it seems to accumulate on the track more than anything for some reason.
@@BArailsystem clean your wheels!
well my layout not super big but long time ago i bought one of those walthers track cleaning boxcars and it dose the job.
I hope it also does the job. Thanks for the tip.
Let me know how it works, I would like to get a few different types of cleaning cars to try and combine in a cleaning train.
I've heard many times that alcohol only cleans in the moment, but then it leaves your rail much, much more susceptible to dirt. I guess you've found that to be the case too.
There was a study done on track chemicals and alcohols did the worst. The best substances were oils or thin applications of graphite.
Can confirm :)
I learned the hard way, it was amazing how much more black grime showed up cleaning with alchohol vs just a dry cloth.
and i loved the sound effects
:D
I will add the sock to Gregg's (Fishplate) method, thanks for that idea ;) Gregg has a great explanation about conductivity but I am sure you have seen it :)
Gregg knows a thing or two about electricity!
top idea!
Thank you! Cheers!
Well that’s it Man I’m going to the Sock Method and CRC QD Electronic Cleaner !🚂🚂 Thanks 🎩🎩 off to ya!
Haha see how it works for ya!
Every way works to clean Track works, I use Inox and it will be months of flawless operations. Bob
Appreciate you sharing your method Bob!
I use alcohol wipes as of now because I have them. I’m about to try the No-Ox but it’s hard to find mineral spirits. I’m going to try your sock method though, I have thrown out so many old socks!
What would you suggest for a helix? (I can barley fit my hand in it, n scale!)
Mineral spirits is paint thinner.
Thanks John. I am going to try the No-Ox or something similar, lots of people seem to have good results with it. Old socks are very useful for the layout, I use them to clean up the messes I make as well as the kids messes too. Recently; spilled yogurt and paint on two separate occasions. Old socks to the rescue!
Old socks it is! Thanks BA! Hopefully they work on spray paint on a garage door (5 year old)
Apparently mineral spirits are the best thing to use to clean track. But hey, I've got a million holy socks lol
Mineral spirits is a NON-Polar product, which is a GOOD thing. Kudos Andrew !
The more you know!
Goo-gone. Lightly soak the pad on the cleaning car (not dripping) and run it. Clean the pad off every so often. Never had an issue with oxidation or pitting from this stuff an is commonly used by many large clubs. I never use anything that can snag on points, joints, spikes or other raised objects or leave fibers that can end up in locomotive axles and eventually in the gears. And stay away from abrasives. Take it from someone who's been in the hobby nearly 30 years and a club just short of that.
Thanks for sharing your experience Charles, sounds like you have a few years of track cleaning experience under your belt!
Just curious.. have you tried washing the sock after cleaning and then reuse the sock again?
Have not tried that but I am sure it would work!
I used something instead of a sock I used to clean my tracks is woodland senecs tiddey track kit set and it works grat for ho N scale and G scale
Thanks for sharing your method Chris!
@@BArailsystem know problem
Just bought one of those cleaning cars on Friday
I haven't used mine yet, but another viewer had a good point. My layout is completely open without much scenery. Once it gets closer to being finished, access to cleaning the tracks will become limited and this is where something like a track cleaning car will really come in handy.
i agree with you about the cmx cleaning car. with long main lines it just doesn't work. sock,, cloth,, and a bit of rubbing.
Keep it simple!
Wait, do you still use an iPhone 4S? Or is that a spare old phone
No sim card in it, I have a couple of them I use as a throttles for the layout.
I like it! Socks never last long these days as well . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer
Nice and simple!
@@BArailsystem I do similar with Isopropyl, only because most my paint is Tamiya. Cheers.
Same as yours, but I use tee shirt sleeves 😊
You know what they say about great minds!
HELLO BEN IS ITS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS FRIENDS RANDY
"
Hi Randy! Thanks!
So was that a dry sock??
Yep!
I've got 3400 lin ft, you're welcome to bring over your entire sock drawer. 😉
3400'!!! :O haha if I get started now, come back and check on me next year.
@@BArailsystem I'll send you out to the train room with plenty of soda and cookies....
👍
After I do a full clean I’ll throw a cleaning car in some trains to rub any extra areas I may have missed.
An excellent strategy Matthew, I plan on using mine more often as the layout becomes harder to access once more scenery is completed.
I did the exact same with my Socks as a kid in the 80s on my layout. Til one day... my Mom asked...ok Yelled up the stairs. 🗣WHAT THE HECK ARE ALL THESE HALF LINE MARKS ON YOUR SOCKS YOUNG MAN! 🙎♀️🙅♀️🤦♀️🤷♀️🙆🏻
God bless fast forward !!
:D
Oh! Ok.
How are those fingers feeling???
Had to take a couple micro breaks : )
I take my dremel, and glue a piece of paper towel to the bit and just go around with it with rubbing alcohol.
Based on all the comments, you might want to reconsider the rubbing alcohol. Seems like it makes it worse and I experienced similar results using rubbing alcohol on my layout. But if your method is working for you then all the power to ya!
BArailsystem I was just kidding about that lol
@@trainsoandnscale7357 LOL you got me!
BArailsystem hahaha nice vid bro
AWESOME!!!😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁🎈😁
Thanks! 😄
...and if you can't reach the track?
Then you have a different problem : ) Not much choice but to use track cleaning cars.
just A sock nothing on it.?.i never h
heard that cool ill try it
So wd40 wont work then
WD-40 Contact Cleaner works fine, but not the regular stuff that people mostly use as a lubricant
Listed as the number 2 cleaner out of a list of many on MRH's article. (WD-40 Contact Cleaner)
Great idea, but you wasted 4 minutes of video before you got to the point.
Sorry about that! I always try to balance providing enough detail with keeping the video length in check. On the flip side, there will always be another person who says I didn't explain enough/show enough detail etc : ) Either way, I appreciate your feedback. Thank you for the comment.