Nice video. Thank you. One other good practice is to loosen and/or remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston, to make it easier to compress, and avoid creating bubbles in the fluid in the brake lines and reservoir. Then just replace it when you're done.
I open the bleeder. It's even easier to push the piston back in, and then you get rid of that nasty brake fluid that's been heat cycled a million times. Then gravity bleed the brakes after.
These design engineers should have to work on this garbage for five years before designing anything. If you find yourself getting frustrated while refreshing your brakes, then take a short break. The last time I changed brake pads my sister in law called and said she heard a grinding sound, I had to do two brake jobs, one on our van, and one on her car, too.
@@brandonminear9400 I don't care to do brakes, brake lines, shocks, or exhaust anymore. Just finished putting the top third of an Audi Cabriolet 3.0 TFSI together. He found out what the dealer wanted to do the job, offered me $2k to do it. Cousin took it for a spin and said it runs better now than when he bought it -- Then gave me a $500 tip. I really like those jobs.
You did not mention the torque specs for the caliper bracket, or caliper. The caliper bolts are 13mm and should be torqued to 26 ft. lbs, and the caliper bracket bolts are 18mm, and should be torqued to 74 ft lbs. Also should pull, clean, and re-lube caliper pins. Also lug nuts are 19mm, and need to be torqued to 100 ft lbs. Sorry to mention, but doing mine right now. Check my video for problem/solution that I ran into about caliper pins and bracket.
Before using a lever pipe be sure to use a spray liquid wrench or WD-40 to loosen. Work it back and forth, tapping till it breaks loose and the bolt doesn't snap off or nut strip. Don't be impatient it could take an hour of working it back and forth but never use twice as much force as torqued or you risk breaking, then you have to tap, drill, ease out or grind to remove the damaged piece and replace with same. Don't substitute with a smaller size.
You may want to take the brake cap off when you are compressing the piston as this will raise the brake fluid when you want to make sure it doesn't overflow in the reservoir when compressing it but you don't necessarily need it off when you are pumping the brakes at the end.
Thanks! I'm glad I could help! Be sure to check out other helpful auto tips I give on changing filters, keyfob batteries and more for my Dodge and Chrysler in my DIY auto maintenance video playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PL-ejpb-NKxVAfkLkQ2_MvYqAF7vDl9FIH.html
I’m going to guess sticking slide pins or emergency brake lever/cable rusty and stuck. Had a remanufactured caliper seize the lever and burn my pads once
Let me just say, I just did a brake job on my sienna, it literally fell apart compared to the Town & Country. Probably took two or three times as long with all the Rust clean up. The rotors had pusher threads on them, but they were not needed, because they came off by hand.
Don't lube your wheel studs. You might lose your wheel going down the road. You better keep torquing them for safety. NEVER lube the studs. They're galvanized and won't rust!
Or just put one drop of oil on your finger per stud that won't hurt and help with keeping it from snapping off if humidity or moisture seep in. Never tighten past recommended torque and re-torque after 25-100 miles to ensure proper seating.
i used to take the t wrench that removed the tire bolts and put the flat end in between the piston and brake and turn for leverage. no special tools necessary.
Tip:If you compress the piston and it does't move ,remove the compresser and hit piston with a hamer and screw driver a couple of times and try the compresser again.
@@claudiomenendez4478 Ive seen your comments you seem to know well. To twist a bit do you hit at angle like clockwise on outside of piston? Or twist with pliers gently? Thanks for the info!
Pro tip, likely under the clips the pads ride in is rusty and crusty. Clean it really good, scrape it out with a pick or screw driver and clean it with emery cloth. Then put the clips in and install the pads. Also skip the anti sieze, does nothing but make a mess.
Anti seize is a horrible product to use for brake components. Heat makes it harden and could cause a stuck brake issue. Silicone grease is the only way to go for both pins and slides
Thanks for watching! What type of car maintenance do you typically do yourself?
We
I just replaced both my wifes minivan rear brakes thanks to you, thank you for sharing.
Check your nuts then. Hope you didn't lube them
Im so glad Luke Wilson is back behind the camera again..... Good job!
I'm glad someone else notice the uncanny resemblance.
That is Secretary of interior, "Not Sure" put some Respek on his name.
Nice video. Thank you. One other good practice is to loosen and/or remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston, to make it easier to compress, and avoid creating bubbles in the fluid in the brake lines and reservoir. Then just replace it when you're done.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
I open the bleeder. It's even easier to push the piston back in, and then you get rid of that nasty brake fluid that's been heat cycled a million times. Then gravity bleed the brakes after.
Not only is it easier but it could damage something
Thanks man. Been a long time since I've done a break job. Appreciate the refresher.
Glad to help
u yttt,
uf six. ,
These design engineers should have to work on this garbage for five years before designing anything.
If you find yourself getting frustrated while refreshing your brakes, then take a short break. The last time I changed brake pads my sister in law called and said she heard a grinding sound, I had to do two brake jobs, one on our van, and one on her car, too.
@@bobpaulino4714 I just did the sister-in-law‘s, my two vehicles completely shelled out brakes within the next couple weeks!
@@brandonminear9400 I don't care to do brakes, brake lines, shocks, or exhaust anymore.
Just finished putting the top third of an Audi Cabriolet 3.0 TFSI together. He found out what the dealer wanted to do the job, offered me $2k to do it. Cousin took it for a spin and said it runs better now than when he bought it -- Then gave me a $500 tip.
I really like those jobs.
Very professional very good teacher thanks
Do we have to play that music all the time?
Yes🎉
Thank you! I just changed my own turn signal for the first time! 😊
You did not mention the torque specs for the caliper bracket, or caliper. The caliper bolts are 13mm and should be torqued to 26 ft. lbs, and the caliper bracket bolts are 18mm, and should be torqued to 74 ft lbs. Also should pull, clean, and re-lube caliper pins. Also lug nuts are 19mm, and need to be torqued to 100 ft lbs. Sorry to mention, but doing mine right now. Check my video for problem/solution that I ran into about caliper pins and bracket.
Came here to say this
He just increased life insurance policy and that's why he hasn't replied
well done ...good instructional video....
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
Super Helpful. Thanks
That wasn't the brake line..... that is the parking brake cable sheath.
Before using a lever pipe be sure to use a spray liquid wrench or WD-40 to loosen. Work it back and forth, tapping till it breaks loose and the bolt doesn't snap off or nut strip. Don't be impatient it could take an hour of working it back and forth but never use twice as much force as torqued or you risk breaking, then you have to tap, drill, ease out or grind to remove the damaged piece and replace with same. Don't substitute with a smaller size.
I've done my brakes a few times over the decades but never needed more than a c-clamp to compress the caliper before.
Won't work on this crap.
Great video, should I take the break cap off when pumping the break?
You may want to take the brake cap off when you are compressing the piston as this will raise the brake fluid when you want to make sure it doesn't overflow in the reservoir when compressing it but you don't necessarily need it off when you are pumping the brakes at the end.
Yes
Good job young man .. I like it! and - I'm hard to please 🙄
Thanks! I'm glad I could help! Be sure to check out other helpful auto tips I give on changing filters, keyfob batteries and more for my Dodge and Chrysler in my DIY auto maintenance video playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PL-ejpb-NKxVAfkLkQ2_MvYqAF7vDl9FIH.html
Great Video thanks
1 important thing nobody seems to mention is the position of the slide clips. Because there is a way to install those right an wrong.
I replaced all the pads and when u go to brake it drags unless u hit really hard,what could be the issue.2013 Dodge Grand Caravan.
I’m going to guess sticking slide pins or emergency brake lever/cable rusty and stuck. Had a remanufactured caliper seize the lever and burn my pads once
Hi have you ever experience the rear brakes not completely engaging so my rotors don't look so shinny??
Let me just say, I just did a brake job on my sienna, it literally fell apart compared to the Town & Country. Probably took two or three times as long with all the Rust clean up. The rotors had pusher threads on them, but they were not needed, because they came off by hand.
Awesome!!!
Glad this was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Don't lube your wheel studs. You might lose your wheel going down the road. You better keep torquing them for safety. NEVER lube the studs. They're galvanized and won't rust!
I respectfully disagree. I use anti seize on the lugs. They don’t come loose. And they’ll come back off when you want them to.
Or just put one drop of oil on your finger per stud that won't hurt and help with keeping it from snapping off if humidity or moisture seep in. Never tighten past recommended torque and re-torque after 25-100 miles to ensure proper seating.
Enough times off and on will wear that zinc off the steel studs. They WILL rust.
@ 14 minutes he shows how to compress the piston
i used to take the t wrench that removed the tire bolts and put the flat end in between the piston and brake and turn for leverage. no special tools necessary.
That's your Van Jeff
Tip:If you compress the piston and it does't move ,remove the compresser and hit piston with a hamer and screw driver a couple of times and try the compresser again.
Awesome, thanks so much for the tip!
I was using a c clamp and it wouldnt compress. So tap the piston a few times with hammer?
@@richard3621 yes hit and twist
@@claudiomenendez4478 Ive seen your comments you seem to know well. To twist a bit do you hit at angle like clockwise on outside of piston? Or twist with pliers gently? Thanks for the info!
Pro tip, likely under the clips the pads ride in is rusty and crusty. Clean it really good, scrape it out with a pick or screw driver and clean it with emery cloth. Then put the clips in and install the pads. Also skip the anti sieze, does nothing but make a mess.
Whips thru the most important part
Dude…Those rotors are ROACHED….
More commercials than cable TV.
Anti seize is a horrible product to use for brake components. Heat makes it harden and could cause a stuck brake issue. Silicone grease is the only way to go for both pins and slides