I'm not a fan of 1095. It's not a bad steel but it's never the best option. If you want a tough knife 5160 at 59 HRC is a beast. Over 4x higher toughness than 1095 at same hardness. If you want a hardness of 62-64HRC several steels have much higher toughness like 1084, 80CrV2, 52100, AEB-L, 13C26 and 14C28N. That being said I do enjoy my custom 1095 Gyuto. As long as it's well made geometry, heat treatment and ergonomics the knife is good.
For most knives, we only need 5-10 on his charts. I have a mora in 2mm 1095 and I've never broken it, it's plenty tough. Also D2, never broken or chipped that either. I'd want tougher for a big chopper but at higher hardness of 62 or so, 1095 isn't much less tough than when it's softer. Does the job. Also, Larrin's test is only one batch of steel, and he's had 8670 that tested at half the toughness of another batch, so it depends on the steel purity and such, some 1095 will be tougher than his chart, like how 1084 got a good bit tougher.
thanks, I will let them know they got a like :} differential hardening is a great thing, and I use it on most of my knives out of 1095 that are wide enough to take advantage of that method. but even with differential hardening 1095 wont be near as tough as tougher steels like 5160. it will be plenty tough for most reasonable uses though.
Wonder if I'll regret that 1/16th inch steel, I figured it'll be easier for stock removal without the best tools, and easier to quench hard in a poor quench oil choice. I went for some 1084, and 52100 to try out, and slightly thicker 15n20 to see if it's tougher and less patina. My 2mm thick mora companion in 1095 is plenty tough and plenty solid for flexing, imo. Thinner is sharper.
thinner is indeed sharper all things being equal. it is also more flexible. 1/16" stock is a good choice for a using knife that is used to cut things and not pry things.
@joecalton1449 It's a good thing I don't pry with my kitchen knives! And I use screwdrivers instead of butter knives. That being said, I have a 2mm thick, 4" long Mora knife from 1095, and I have a hard time bending it even if I try, since it's not thinned for most of the stock width.
Very interesting and informative video. However, my results don't match up- I have a K Bar chopper in 1095 that I carry instead of a hatchet these days and has downed and processed many hardwoods with no edge damage. Also, my main bushcraft knife is in 1066 and I have been batoning through any and everything with it for years and has been good to go with a regular stropping (yet to put it on a stone).
The fact it works doesn't mean it's the optimal choice. Yes they're durable (largely due to the thickness), but there's plenty of evidence that they could be more durable.
it sounds like you have had great luck with your kbar and bushcraft knife! as long as you arent pushing them to extremes, then you will likely never have a problem.
when im talking about tough, i think maybe its in a different context. i have never been able to get a 1095 blade at anything much over 3/32" starting stock on a 2" wide blade with a pretty lean grind to pass a 90 degree flex test, even with a hard edge and soft back, 1095 just does not have the brute strenth that something like 5160 or 52100 have. it doesnt harden as deeply as its a fast quenching steel. now if you go pretty thick blades, at 3/16" like your esee junglass, and keep it very soft at thier 55-57, then you have a spring and with thick geometry you will have good toughness, but nowhere near the toughness at a higher hardness as a tougher steel.
I am a cook and am very regretful that I passed along my high-carbon knives years ago. So sharp, so easy to sharpen. Coat of oil kept down the rust. I could chop an onion like a machine with those.
My steel snob days ended when i started using knives.
What an awesome video Joe!🎉🎉🎉🎉
Glad you liked it!!
I've got a esee-6 and absolutely love it. Good stuff
Joe is dropping some knowledge bombe in this one!! Awesome video as usual sir!!!
thank you for the kind words!
Very nice video Joe, as usual.
Thumbs up!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm not a fan of 1095. It's not a bad steel but it's never the best option.
If you want a tough knife 5160 at 59 HRC is a beast. Over 4x higher toughness than 1095 at same hardness.
If you want a hardness of 62-64HRC several steels have much higher toughness like 1084, 80CrV2, 52100, AEB-L, 13C26 and 14C28N.
That being said I do enjoy my custom 1095 Gyuto. As long as it's well made geometry, heat treatment and ergonomics the knife is good.
For most knives, we only need 5-10 on his charts. I have a mora in 2mm 1095 and I've never broken it, it's plenty tough. Also D2, never broken or chipped that either. I'd want tougher for a big chopper but at higher hardness of 62 or so, 1095 isn't much less tough than when it's softer. Does the job. Also, Larrin's test is only one batch of steel, and he's had 8670 that tested at half the toughness of another batch, so it depends on the steel purity and such, some 1095 will be tougher than his chart, like how 1084 got a good bit tougher.
that last part about balance is where its at. well made, appropriate geometry, ht, ergos for the task
Buy the maker, not the steel.
Good informative video and very good product you make.
Thank you!
Love the doggies 🐕 🐕 in the background. 😂 What about differential hardening, as in a hamon? Won’t that give good toughness and edge retention?
thanks, I will let them know they got a like :} differential hardening is a great thing, and I use it on most of my knives out of 1095 that are wide enough to take advantage of that method. but even with differential hardening 1095 wont be near as tough as tougher steels like 5160. it will be plenty tough for most reasonable uses though.
Wonder if I'll regret that 1/16th inch steel, I figured it'll be easier for stock removal without the best tools, and easier to quench hard in a poor quench oil choice. I went for some 1084, and 52100 to try out, and slightly thicker 15n20 to see if it's tougher and less patina.
My 2mm thick mora companion in 1095 is plenty tough and plenty solid for flexing, imo. Thinner is sharper.
thinner is indeed sharper all things being equal. it is also more flexible. 1/16" stock is a good choice for a using knife that is used to cut things and not pry things.
@joecalton1449
It's a good thing I don't pry with my kitchen knives! And I use screwdrivers instead of butter knives.
That being said, I have a 2mm thick, 4" long Mora knife from 1095, and I have a hard time bending it even if I try, since it's not thinned for most of the stock width.
Very interesting and informative video. However, my results don't match up- I have a K Bar chopper in 1095 that I carry instead of a hatchet these days and has downed and processed many hardwoods with no edge damage. Also, my main bushcraft knife is in 1066 and I have been batoning through any and everything with it for years and has been good to go with a regular stropping (yet to put it on a stone).
Agreed.. "1095 isn't good for thick knives" Ok...ummm..ESEE Junglas, ESSE 5, ESSE 6, 😂 Now go ask ROWAN How they make 1095 knives for ESEE
Agreed . Esse 6, Esse 5. Just about everything else they make. Lifetime warranty, but hey 1095 doesn't work for hard use outdoor knives...🤔😂
The fact it works doesn't mean it's the optimal choice.
Yes they're durable (largely due to the thickness), but there's plenty of evidence that they could be more durable.
it sounds like you have had great luck with your kbar and bushcraft knife! as long as you arent pushing them to extremes, then you will likely never have a problem.
when im talking about tough, i think maybe its in a different context. i have never been able to get a 1095 blade at anything much over 3/32" starting stock on a 2" wide blade with a pretty lean grind to pass a 90 degree flex test, even with a hard edge and soft back, 1095 just does not have the brute strenth that something like 5160 or 52100 have. it doesnt harden as deeply as its a fast quenching steel. now if you go pretty thick blades, at 3/16" like your esee junglass, and keep it very soft at thier 55-57, then you have a spring and with thick geometry you will have good toughness, but nowhere near the toughness at a higher hardness as a tougher steel.
20cv too hard.
1095 too soft.
Cruwear/magnacut just right.
I am a cook and am very regretful that I passed along my high-carbon knives years ago. So sharp, so easy to sharpen. Coat of oil kept down the rust. I could chop an onion like a machine with those.
(love the photo-bombing dog)
@@shirtlesslagerStanding there a loooong time lol
its never too late to get another set :}
they keep me busy, i hope they werent doing anything off color in the background again :}
I've still got mine. Bought them in '77, still going strong. Never been oiled in their life. They just developed a patina and it stuck.