I'm gonna make a video, problly named SkyCastle truck 1. and post it on YT soon for anyone's interest about the 'field' conditions I'm working with and the parts puzzle that I have to assemble from. Where I live is quite remote and 'off grid' simple. Dirt floor simple. Flat blade screwdriver simple. And largely thanks to your videos, Brian, I am 'mechanic-ing for the fist time in way more than a decade. My last hu-rah, if you will. I'm 60 and before I die I'm gonna drive around my neighborhood! Thanks again for you vids.
Boy, are you the greatest! I have watched every video I could find of yours at least 5 times! Even videos of what I am not working on to get any extra understanding of the mechanics of things. I am 68, female, was not allowed in shop classes, father died when I was little. It is SO great to have someone so knowledgeful I can learn from. Thanks a million!
Hey Brian I love your videos, I’m going to rebuild my T90 and convert it to a T90C. I would never have the confidence to do a job like that if not for your videos. There’s a lot of other people making videos and they seem fine until I see your videos, you do it right! Thanks Brian and I hope you keep doing what you’re doing 🙏
thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. My videos are designed to show people how to do things, beginners and pros alike. Trying to take the mystery out of restoration work.
Thank you for de-mystifying this aspect of a rebuild. To be honest I had no idea that the 1st gear was dual hatted as the reverse gear...historical engineering can be so fascinating.
I appreciate the info about the supposed "crush" washers that come in a new gasket kit. I had put them on the bolts for the oil collector and figured the "breaking" I felt was from them crushing. After seeing this video I took them out and discovered they had just been smashed and broken. Now I have some copper washers in there just like on the front cover. You saved me some serious annoyance later! Thanks
Thanks to this video, I have managed to overhaul my T90, and best of all is that I know it is done correctly. Thanks Brian, it is nice to be able to refer back to these videos as they must be the best Willys info on the internet.
Report back: I have the same thing nearly that you have Mr. Shaper. Two chassis and two sets of axles. One front 25 with gussets on the knuckle and the other D25 w/o gussets. I always ponder the fella that had the 'truck' before as I work away the days on it now that I have a turn. My T-90 is coming along fine and the t-case looks real good. Might just flush and fill it for starters. My aim is to have a mountain 'gocart'. A running chassis outfitted like a SxS buggy with pedigree! I will need some parts and also have some body/parts left for trade or burial and don't know much about addressing that. BTW, we only have one radio station and you have replaced it. You are so much easier to listen to. No lie.
I generally don't speak on my vids cause I hate the sound of my own voice, for some goofy reason... But I just up loaded some... SkyCastle truck MVI should get you there. I barely know how to function on YT. They definitely show my workshop! Sky ceiling and the biggest dirt floor in Texas!
I enjoyed you rebuild on the transfer case and trans.....I been drive a tj for years and would like to find a willy's up here in NH but most are full of cancer.,...thanks for the lesson on how to rebuild-them right ...nice job ...Gary
Great video, gave me the confidence I needed to dig into my T-90 this summer. I was having trouble finding retailers carrying the assembly lube online this summer, and reached out to ATP; they confirmed that they are no longer producing the AT 201 Transmission Assembly Lube. Do you have any suggestions on other alternatives that will play nice with the brass components? I got lucky on eBay, but others may have trouble in the future.
I'm depending on you Mr. Shaper! I'm doing a "field" rebuild and so far so good. Thanks for your step by step vids, I'm one of the peeps you were thinking about to do a detailed vid like this. I'm working in the dirt with no more than simple hand tools and high winds.But trucks like this were made to rebuild. (So therapudic) Mine is a T90-3 (I think) from a 2a or 3a... I'll post again later with results. Thanks again for you s/s vids. PB
WARNING! This is a great video like all of his videos BUT it has one flaw. At 31:47 he removes a seal on the Front Sealed Main Drive Gear Bearing. SKIP THIS STEP! I did exactly what he said in this whole video and it leaked right off the bat. After much frustration and time. I found out by removing this seal was the cause of my leak. I replaced the bearing with a double sealed bearing and no leaks now. All his vids are probably the best for details and instructions. But I wish he would revise this part of his video and save other guys the frustration. I hope this helps others in the future.
Another great video. Such great tips for this job and takes some of the intimidation factor out of it. Think I’d try a transfer case before the T90 though...
Hopefully my videos will help you out with your rebuild. Take your time and have plenty of patience when working on your project and follow along with my videos and you should be fine. Many more videos coming so keep watching.
Mine is just like new except it sat with water in the case for 49 years. It's cool, it's Texas mountain water and it's all gonna be fine. Low mileage but surface rust from hell. So far I broke it down, scarped and cleaned and preassembled to check the action and so far so good. I'll be back with a full report.
Greetings and Happy New Year 2023. First time for me to rebuild a T-90 or any transmission. I am really enjoying your videos. Without them, I doubt I could be successful! When I pulled my T90 apart, instead of 6 washers for the needle bearings, 9 washers fell out. I was not able to note the order. Have you seen this before? Any idea why I would have 9 washers? Any idea of the order? I think this M381 was built in 1952. It sat for over 40 years in AZ. When my father passed, I looked at it and there was a Palo Verde tree growing through the engine compartment :)
Hi Brian. Although my transmission was in need of rebuild, I'm still having problems shifting specifically from first to second. The transmission seems perfectly fine and shifts by hand very smoothly with no leaks (thanks!) I think the problem is in my shift tower. I just replaced the poppets and springs, and realized that when shifting (while on the bench in a vice) from first to second the lugs for first and reverse are sticking out a tiny bit and catching the shifter rod while I have it engaged into the rod that controls the 2nd/3rd fork. I was going to take it back apart, and grind about an 1/8" off the shifting lugs for the first/reverse fork. I thought at first the pin that keeps from shifting the gears into two gears at once was the problem, but I am convinced the hang up is there where the shift rod is engaged into the indent in the rod for 2nd/3rd fork, and catching the lugs for the first/reverse fork. Maybe at some point the shifting cane or rod was bent and changed the geometry slightly, causing this problem.Ever run into something like that?
Yes, I have encountered many shift tower problems in the many years I have been rebuilding T-90's. Do what you need to make it right or just install an cover from another transmission. Very rare to get two different towers that won't work. Either way, a little grinding or blending won't hurt anything and should allow you to shift easier. Brian
The blocking rings can get stuck on second and third gear when freshly rebuilt. Take a small screwdriver and pry them free so they have wiggle room. Flood them with lubricant so they don't stick and you should be able to shift without any trouble
Great video! By far the best and more detailed. One question: how thick is the ring spacer in the back of the T90, the one behind the bearing that mates with the TC? With my input shaft cover bolted in, the rear bearing barely enters the recess of the back cover. I am afraid the spacer is too thick and the TC will not bolt in correctly or it will all bind inside the transmission. Thanks!
Will you be doing a video dedicated to fluids? What is the right fluid for the steering box, transmission, and transfer case. What is your favorite and why. GL-5 no good in the trans or transfer?
I have all the fluids needed for all the parts on your willys . I have been selling the correct lubricants for many years to the folks who are looking for the correct fluid. if you need anything let me know. Will be doing a short video on the CJ3A project when I fill the transmission, transfer case, and overdrive.
If you decide to remove the oil collector, you can cut/grind the thin sheet metal part off, and grind the remaining thick part smooth and return it to its original position, using the original bolts with some thread sealer to hold it in place. Fills the holes, nothing to come loose inside, and free.
Excellent video as always. I am prepping my T90 for a rebuild currently. Where did you source your rebuild kit and replacement NOS parts? Also what cleaning solvent is safe for the gears? I unfortunately don’t have a cleaning tank. just a couple oil pans.
Diesel fuel works great for cleaning gears and misc. parts. Give Pete DeBella a call for good parts 631 874 8660 . Tell him that Brian from UA-cam sent you and you are looking for quality parts. He will take care of you.
Just double checked all of my parts and they are really rough with a lot of slop in them or binding. Gave Pete DeBella a call and ordered pretty much all of the internal parts, except the cluster gear and input shaft since they were in really great shape. I let him know you pointed me in his direction
I am rebuilding a T84 transmission in my 1942 Willys MB. Your videos have helped me tremendously. Thanks so much. I have an issue with the steel washer on the back side of the cluster gear. If I line the small pin in the case with the hole in the washer it offsets the washer so I can’t slide the shaft in. I assume the pin is to keep the washer from spinning. Do I drill a slightly larger hole in the washer to move it into place?
Very helpful now I understand why dads trany would kick out of 2 and 3 and occasionally lock out the shifter I told him I thought the trany needed work he said their cheap and bought another used one lol I wonder about grandmas jeep it had a 3 in the tree and was supposed to be a 40s model it took 3/4 spark plugs and had a flathead engine but the carb stood higher than the hood not sure what model it was I thought it was a cj2a
Hi Brian. This video has been very helpful to me. Unless I missed it will you ever be doing a video of the T84 rebuild? I’ve not been able to find any actual specs on counter gear and main shaft end play. Thanks
excuse me , me inglish is very bad I write from Latin America... i'm trying to get seal of the direct ( minute 47:28 ).. many people here tell me that there is no ,but now I see you placing it .... what material do you use ? this is an original replacement? I also need the washer that works behind the bearing ( in the direct ) .. please if you can tell me all the dimensions, in order to get something similar.. I hope my words are understood .. thank you very much for all the videos!
A great set of videos. I just dismantled a rusted T87D heavy duty transmission. Cluster gear is so pitted that it must be replaced. There is a little pitting on the main shaft and second gear teeth and splines also. In what way could pitting affect shifting ability on this gearbox? I'm not sure I can find a second gear or main shaft for this thing. Any advice on how I can recondition these in case I cannot replace them? Thanks!
Question. I am in need of a new cluster gear. The one that came with my m38 is pitted badly (sat in water) and another I acquired is also pitted and worn badly. Who do you recommend that I purchase a new one from? Ebay as a million of them but are made overseas. You do this all the time so I thought I would ask who you use. Thanks.
I just picked up the parts to rebuild my T90 and second gear won't go onto the main shaft past the snap ring groove that holds the gear in place. Thoughts?
Where did you get the second gear and mainshaft, there is a lot of junk out there so let me know where you bought it. Next measure the mainshaft OD and the second gear ID so I can see how much of a problem there is going to be. Brian
I picked up all of the internals except first gear and and the gear and shaft for reverse from Kaiser Willys. I try to avoid the "Georgia parts" like the plague. The main shaft measures 1.3720 in the area in front of the 2nd gear snap ring and 1.3745 rear of the snap ring groove. The bushing inside 2nd gear measures 1.379. I slid the gear on as far as it would go without force and spun it a bit, then I flipped it over and did it again. This left a shiny ring on the inside of the bushing, about 1/8" wide about .5 inches from the rear face of the gear. It looks like I have a tight spot inside the bushing.
Very common problem with reproduction gears made overseas. You can get an expandable reamer and just take a light cut on the bushing inside the gear if it won't go on. Do not make it oversize as that will lead to other problems. The size is good , you just have to get out the high spot on the bushing. You have to be careful where you buy parts these days there is a lot of junk out there. Let me know how it goes. Brian
Brian, I rebuilt my 1955 Willy's CJ5 T90 and Dana 18 transfer case. Does the vent in the transfer case also vent the transmission? It looks like it is leaking from the input shaft and the top gasket for the shiftier. It seems hot but I don't know how hot it was before I rebuilt it. Thx, Don
Parts washer to remove oil and grime. More serious trouble I use walnut shells or fine glass beads in the blast cabinet. Or just get new parts if they are beyond clean up
Hey do they make replacement bushings for the 2nd gear and/or the reverse gear? My gears seem to be in good condition but it’d be nice to have the peace of mind of the bushings being replaced.
Thanks for putting this out! Great video. Don't know what happened to my spacer on the rear bearing, guess it got chewed up, so I have to get one ordered before I can finish. A new cluster gear shaft came with my kit from novak, but the old one fits into the case holes on each end better, and the new one has grooves on each end versus just the keeper groove on the original. I can feel no wear on the old one, I think I might just use the old one, if that makes sense. Do you drive the idler shaft and the cluster gear in so that the keeper is flat against the case? I can't remember what it looked like when I tore it apart.
Make sure you get that spacer in there or you will have problems. It doesn't make a difference on the shafts, a groove all around or just a slot. Either way install them most of the way thru, put the keeper plate in there and then lightly tap them up against the case. Not too hard or the shaft will act like a shear and cut the keeper plate. Just a light tap. Make sure the plate is inside the gasket and it won't interfere with the transfer case. Watch the video carefully, I explain it all in detail.
My husband enjoys your videos. I was curious if you check the in play on the main shaft of the T90 transmission. The spacer is not wide enough on a lot of transmissions I have worked on. It will fly out of second gear.
I check it but don't usually have any problems with the end play. I have rebuilt hundreds of t-90s and that is not a common problem. there are a few reasons for slipping out of second gear but main shaft is not a common one.
Hi, Your videos are a lot of help. I'm doing my T90. Here's my question. I'm using a front sealed bearing and removing the rear seal of that bearing as you show in this video. Then you say to leave the oil return hole at 7 o'clock on the front of the case open. So with the front side of the bearing sealed and oil not coming into the bearing cover, why would this return oil hole want to be left open? The hole is outside of the bearing on the now "dry side" of the bearing. My Novak kit says to plug it. This is my first plunge into the T90 on my '49 3A and I want to get it right the first time. Am I all messed up or what? Thanks, Jeff
you can leave it open or plug it, does not really matter. I have had bearings in the past begin to leak after a few years and if oil does get past the seal it has no way to drain back into the case so I always leave them open. I have tried all different manufacturers of bearings and 99% of the time no oil will ever come out....... but I always like to plan ahead for problems. Also if you use the proper lube that I sell the chances of the bearing leaking are even less so the choice is up to you to plug it or not. Good luck with the rebuild, Brian
@@metalshaperJeepthank you for that information. That adds more detail to my Frankenstein '48. It has VEC parts. I guess that could include the transmission internals. Or someone just unnecessarily added it, I guess.
Hello Again, been watching and following your T90 rebuild and has been an immense help! Thanks for the reply to my last question too. I have another question, I finished the T90 rebuild, but it's a bit stiff in the turning of the gears. Nothing is hemmed up, all turn just a bit tight. Yours appears to turn a bit more freely. Is this normal? Thanks again for your help and advice. Tony
the usual place for drag is from the blocking rings being new. Take a screwdriver and make sure they are not too tight,.....pry them back . Next it will turn a bit stiff when new and has no lube in it. If it turns by hand you should be ok. Lube will make a big difference. I have the correct lube if you need it. Do not use any modern gear oil or any type of differential lube like 80w-90. Brian
The Shift dogs or shift plates, just how important are they? I ask because there usually broken or missing altogether in few t 90 and t 84 transmissions that I've been in.
I followed your video to rebuild my T90, when slidingvshaft through I had difficulty with the countetshaft thrust washer and spacer being in the way.,I finally got them out of the way and completed build. Connected to transfer case then motor. Shifts into reverse and 1st no problem (engine not running) but seen to have difficulty shifting into 2nd and 3rd. Did I get thrust washer and spacer wrong? Do I have to tear apart again?
Very common for the blocking rings to get stuck in place. Pull the cover and with a screwdriver gently pry blocking ring away from second gear and third gear and you should be fine.
Question, what is the dimensions of the spacer @ 43:40 , and where can I get them ? I need to make one like it about 2.100" in length for a Muncie/Dana 18 marriage I am doing with an Advance Adapter old school kit. The problem is that I am using an Overdrive and there is nothing for the center of the bearing to torque against when torquing the overdrive to 120 lbs ft.. So I am going to have to make something.
I just completed a rebuild, and have a very bad leak between the transmission and the transfer case - They are not installed on the Jeep, just filled them with oil sitting on the bench I have some pictures of the leak / area in question Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
A leak in that area is usually due to the lock plate that is between the countershaft and reverse idler shaft being in the way. The ones that come in the kits are big and have to be installed perfectly to fit inside the transfer case recess. Chances are yours is out of position a little and not allowing the cases to come together tightly, causing the leak.
@@metalshaperJeep thanks for the quick response! I think you are right, as I didn’t get a perfect fit as you describe - I didn’t realize it was important for the marriage between the transmission and transfer case I will separate them and take a look Thanks again
when i took out cluster gear of 1950 willys cj3a, there was 4 washers and 88 needle bearings. With only 4 washers what is the order of washers and needle bearings? Do you leave out a washer next to spacer?
If you have the larger spacer and 4 washers then you leave out the ones closest to the spacer. Spacer in the middle, needle bearings, washer, needle bearings and washer on both sides of spacer.
Hello, I have another question. I installed did the full rebuild on T90 and was great. Just used your videos... I am attempting to place the too shifter and it will not go into any gear. Just like its froze in position... is there a trick to this? It must be a issue only I have, since I haven't located anyone at any time online or UA-cam with this... pls help! I'm stuck... thanks.
Well tonight I had a look inside the gusset model of D-25 and all I saw was a dana gasket and rust you won't believe. But where I live rust and dust is a protectorent! Wait till I get these babies all shined up! At least there's an axle on both sides!
I’ve got it T 84, that jumps out of second when you press on the Excelerator, I am unsure if it is some thing I did wrong when assembling or a different issue. It is not the same issue that most people have when it jumps out of second due to wear and tear on the synchronizerI think because it doesn’t jump out when engine braking. Have you run into this before? Or have any insight that might help me?
Case could be worn beyond acceptable limits. Perhaps you needed to shim it but didn't or didn't do it correctly. Worn parts, hard to know what is going on until you tell me what you replaced and what the quality of the parts was. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep my cousin and I rebuilt the whole transmission and replaced pretty much everything. Crown we used crown parts except for the small parts kit. That came from Ron Fitzpatrick. Can you tell me more about how I can reshim
I've learned considerable amount on your videos and wondered if you rebuilt Transmissions and sell lubricant. I would like to know how to contact you to buy some. Thank you
Question, little confusing info here. I had to order a new hardware set for bolting up the transmission to transfer case (5bolts, 3 long 2 shorts) Kaiser willys says the manual is 5 bolts of the same length. So I ordered that kit, your video says two shorts in certain spots. What should I do
Not sure what length bolts you have, but the main thing is to make sure you don't have any interference with anything when bolting things together. Maybe you have all short bolts in your kit and won't have a problem. If not then follow along on my video and put the short bolts in the locations that I have shown. Brian
Hello again, can you tell me the best lubrication to use for my T90 and Dana 18. Rebuilt them using your vids! Awesome experience! Now getting ready to reinstall then will need to fill them. Thanks.
B2rian, I just rebuilt my t90 and Dana 18 transfer case. I is leaking around the top shift plate and the input shaft. I sealed all bolts and gaskets with permatex #2. Does the t90 vent through the transfer case? Maybe building up pressure inside.
yes it does vent easily thru transfer case. I never had a problem with pressure building up in the transmission. What type of gear oil are you using. If you are not using the correct stuff and are just putting in standard 80w-90 it will have a tendency to leak out because it isn't the correct lube and it to thin.
I finally got back on the t90, and finished it up. Everything went together fine, but I can't get the hub to slide back and forth (by hand) to engage 2nd and 3rd gear. Before I put it back in the cj2a, should I make sure that is ok? Everything rotates like you show in the video, and I don't think the blocking ring is bound. Thanks again
It can be tricky to get it to engage when the shaft isn't turning, but by moving things around you should be able to get into second and third. bolt the cover on and see if you can shift while it is on the bench. You want to make sure there are no problems before you install it.
I ended up replacing the new springs in the hub with the old springs, now it shifts ok, but the old springs still seem fine, still keep it from flopping around.Had another weird problem. Went to bolt it up to the transfer case, and where the idler shaft plate matches up with the tips of the shafts sticking out, there is only room for the stock plate, which was a very narrow plate that was angled on both ends. If it isn't perfectly located, it would keep the transfer case from mating up. I think I'm just going to take a grinder (very carefully) and grind out the metal between the two pockets, enough to where a trimmed plate like you showed would fit. It looks nothing like the pocket on your transfer case. Thanks!
Ok, if you have it shifting good now then all should be good. As far as bolting them together it can be challenging sometimes because of the plate. You can trim the plate to fit, it just has to be in the groove of the shafts to keep them from moving. I think it would be easier to cut the plate smaller than grinding out the transfer case, but do what you have to so they mate up properly or the lube will just run right out of there.
where is the 6th washer....i count 1 washer plus 22, 2 washer, plus 22, 3 washer plus 22, 4 washer plus 22 and final 5th washer...and not a 6th washer....what am i missing...?
rebuilding my t90 the cluster gears fit in very snug into the case have new washer & thrust washers.. when i installed the cluster had to use a mallot to help set into the bottom is this anything to be concerned about thanks
@@bobberg1541 put the flat rear washer on a magnetic table on the surface grinder and take .001" passes and keep trying it. You want a perfect fit easily installed by hand
@@metalshaperJeep got that taken care of drops in smooth now [thanks] how do you feel about kaiser willy co in S.C. put it back together with new second gear and it binds up found out its a few thousands to thick they are sending another one from a different suppler . need to get with you about selling me the fluids r what to use for every thing trans/ t/case steering gear and the rear main plugs at the seal i can send my phone # if you want
your synchro rings may be sticky on second and third gear. Take the top off and place a flat blade screwdriver between gear and blocking ring and pry it off gear. that usually fixes things. Drip some oil in there and it should fix it. If the transfer case is already attached perhaps someone put too long a bolt in there and it has bound against the cluster gear locking things up. Let me know how it goes. Brian
just a dab or two in a few places to hold the gasket in place. No need for sealer on the entire gasket. it will seal fine, just make sure it stays in place and does not move. Brian
metalshaper hi Brian,thank you for your help. I'm from ct also, chuck barnes told me about you and to look you up. My father in law and I are restoring a 46 cj2a that we rescued from the woods in ct.
What parts are you needing, just small parts kit ?? or gears as well? There is a tremendous amount of poor quality parts out there so if you let me know what you need I can try to direct you in the right direction to get them.
You can get good quality parts from Pete DeBella. You can reach him at 631 874 8660. Tell him that Brian sent you and tell him what you are looking for and he will set you up with the best parts available
I'm gonna make a video, problly named SkyCastle truck 1. and post it on YT soon for anyone's interest about the 'field' conditions I'm working with and the parts puzzle that I have to assemble from. Where I live is quite remote and 'off grid' simple. Dirt floor simple. Flat blade screwdriver simple. And largely thanks to your videos, Brian, I am 'mechanic-ing for the fist time in way more than a decade. My last hu-rah, if you will. I'm 60 and before I die I'm gonna drive around my neighborhood! Thanks again for you vids.
Glad my videos have gotten you going on your project . If there is anything you can't find in my videos just let me know. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you.
Boy, are you the greatest! I have watched every video I could find of yours at least 5 times! Even videos of what I am not working on to get any extra understanding of the mechanics of things. I am 68, female, was not allowed in shop classes, father died when I was little. It is SO great to have someone so knowledgeful I can learn from. Thanks a million!
thanks for the comment, let me know if you need any help with your project along the way.
Brian
Isn't this man fantastic, I'm 69 and never stop learning. Be safe
Received my box of transfer and transmission spares today!! I am so glad to get to this part of the job and so thankful for this video!!!
Enjoy!
Hey Brian I love your videos, I’m going to rebuild my T90 and convert it to a T90C. I would never have the confidence to do a job like that if not for your videos. There’s a lot of other people making videos and they seem fine until I see your videos, you do it right! Thanks Brian and I hope you keep doing what you’re doing 🙏
Watched this tonight and paused all night...i now have a t90 finished. Your tips are invaluable, thank from down under.
Glad it helped
Thanks, Brian. We're prepping to do this job later this winter. Super helpful,
Outstanding video. Great job on explaining the step by step procedures on taking the T-90 apart and putting everything back together!!! Thank you.
thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. My videos are designed to show people how to do things, beginners and pros alike. Trying to take the mystery out of restoration work.
Mr. you are one hell of a teacher! Thank you very much
Glad you think so!
Thank you for de-mystifying this aspect of a rebuild. To be honest I had no idea that the 1st gear was dual hatted as the reverse gear...historical engineering can be so fascinating.
Hello Dragon Bear, glad you are learning something along the way, that is the whole purpose of my videos. Many more coming so stay tuned.
I appreciate the info about the supposed "crush" washers that come in a new gasket kit. I had put them on the bolts for the oil collector and figured the "breaking" I felt was from them crushing.
After seeing this video I took them out and discovered they had just been smashed and broken.
Now I have some copper washers in there just like on the front cover.
You saved me some serious annoyance later! Thanks
Thanks to this video, I have managed to overhaul my T90, and best of all is that I know it is done correctly. Thanks Brian, it is nice to be able to refer back to these videos as they must be the best Willys info on the internet.
thanks. Glad your t90 rebuild went smoothly. Always good to hear from you and the progress you are making on your Willys.
@metalshaper Thanks Brian, now time to move on to the transfer case. I work abroad, so will only be able to get to it once I am back.
Report back: I have the same thing nearly that you have Mr. Shaper. Two chassis and two sets of axles. One front 25 with gussets on the knuckle and the other D25 w/o gussets. I always ponder the fella that had the 'truck' before as I work away the days on it now that I have a turn. My T-90 is coming along fine and the t-case looks real good. Might just flush and fill it for starters. My aim is to have a mountain 'gocart'. A running chassis outfitted like a SxS buggy with pedigree! I will need some parts and also have some body/parts left for trade or burial and don't know much about addressing that. BTW, we only have one radio station and you have replaced it. You are so much easier to listen to. No lie.
Hopefully will be able to see one of your videos soon and learn more about where you are located and your workshop.
I generally don't speak on my vids cause I hate the sound of my own voice, for some goofy reason... But I just up loaded some... SkyCastle truck MVI should get you there. I barely know how to function on YT. They definitely show my workshop! Sky ceiling and the biggest dirt floor in Texas!
One of the best vido's on a T-90, and transfer case
Thanks for the comment. Trying to make this channel better with every video. Glad you liked it. keep watching, many more videos coming
YOU did a good job with the rebuild of the transfer case and transmission Mr Metalshaper. IT was very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it, both came out perfect and will have a long life ahead. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video very informative Thanks again for all your hard work,
I enjoyed you rebuild on the transfer case and trans.....I been drive a tj for years and would like to find a willy's up here in NH but most are full of cancer.,...thanks for the lesson on how to rebuild-them right ...nice job ...Gary
Thanks for the comment Gary. Keep looking for an old Willys, one day the right one will pop up for you.
Brian
Great video, gave me the confidence I needed to dig into my T-90 this summer. I was having trouble finding retailers carrying the assembly lube online this summer, and reached out to ATP; they confirmed that they are no longer producing the AT 201 Transmission Assembly Lube. Do you have any suggestions on other alternatives that will play nice with the brass components? I got lucky on eBay, but others may have trouble in the future.
I'm depending on you Mr. Shaper! I'm doing a "field" rebuild and so far so good. Thanks for your step by step vids, I'm one of the peeps you were thinking about to do a detailed vid like this. I'm working in the dirt with no more than simple hand tools and high winds.But trucks like this were made to rebuild. (So therapudic) Mine is a T90-3 (I think) from a 2a or 3a... I'll post again later with results. Thanks again for you s/s vids. PB
Excellent video! It was very informative, especially doing the video there by yourself.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to post a positive comment. viewers like you are appreciated.
Brian
WARNING! This is a great video like all of his videos BUT it has one flaw. At 31:47 he removes a seal on the Front Sealed Main Drive Gear Bearing. SKIP THIS STEP! I did exactly what he said in this whole video and it leaked right off the bat. After much frustration and time. I found out by removing this seal was the cause of my leak. I replaced the bearing with a double sealed bearing and no leaks now.
All his vids are probably the best for details and instructions. But I wish he would revise this part of his video and save other guys the frustration. I hope this helps others in the future.
that was great thank you its my first rebuild on my jeep iam doing.
Glad it helped
Another great video. Such great tips for this job and takes some of the intimidation factor out of it. Think I’d try a transfer case before the T90 though...
Pembelajaran yang sangat bermanfaat... very good
I love to watch paint dry...hahaha (and thank you so much for this wonderful video.. I really appreciate it)
Just starting my rebuild.....nice timing!
Hopefully my videos will help you out with your rebuild. Take your time and have plenty of patience when working on your project and follow along with my videos and you should be fine. Many more videos coming so keep watching.
From Brazil 🔟🛠👍👏👏👏🇧🇷
Mine is just like new except it sat with water in the case for 49 years. It's cool, it's Texas mountain water and it's all gonna be fine. Low mileage but surface rust from hell. So far I broke it down, scarped and cleaned and preassembled to check the action and so far so good. I'll be back with a full report.
Sounds like you are making good progress, keep me up to date on the rebuild. Glad you are enjoying the videos. Brian
So interesting and informative! Can’t thank you enough.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you for watching.
Greetings and Happy New Year 2023. First time for me to rebuild a T-90 or any transmission. I am really enjoying your videos. Without them, I doubt I could be successful!
When I pulled my T90 apart, instead of 6 washers for the needle bearings, 9 washers fell out. I was not able to note the order.
Have you seen this before? Any idea why I would have 9 washers? Any idea of the order?
I think this M381 was built in 1952. It sat for over 40 years in AZ. When my father passed, I looked at it and there was a Palo Verde tree growing through the engine compartment :)
Hi Brian. Although my transmission was in need of rebuild, I'm still having problems shifting specifically from first to second. The transmission seems perfectly fine and shifts by hand very smoothly with no leaks (thanks!) I think the problem is in my shift tower. I just replaced the poppets and springs, and realized that when shifting (while on the bench in a vice) from first to second the lugs for first and reverse are sticking out a tiny bit and catching the shifter rod while I have it engaged into the rod that controls the 2nd/3rd fork. I was going to take it back apart, and grind about an 1/8" off the shifting lugs for the first/reverse fork. I thought at first the pin that keeps from shifting the gears into two gears at once was the problem, but I am convinced the hang up is there where the shift rod is engaged into the indent in the rod for 2nd/3rd fork, and catching the lugs for the first/reverse fork. Maybe at some point the shifting cane or rod was bent and changed the geometry slightly, causing this problem.Ever run into something like that?
Yes, I have encountered many shift tower problems in the many years I have been rebuilding T-90's. Do what you need to make it right or just install an cover from another transmission. Very rare to get two different towers that won't work. Either way, a little grinding or blending won't hurt anything and should allow you to shift easier.
Brian
Great help. Thanks. Question, on the bench it is really hard to get into third gear. Any ideas on what the issue might be?
The blocking rings can get stuck on second and third gear when freshly rebuilt. Take a small screwdriver and pry them free so they have wiggle room. Flood them with lubricant so they don't stick and you should be able to shift without any trouble
Great video! By far the best and more detailed. One question: how thick is the ring spacer in the back of the T90, the one behind the bearing that mates with the TC? With my input shaft cover bolted in, the rear bearing barely enters the recess of the back cover. I am afraid the spacer is too thick and the TC will not bolt in correctly or it will all bind inside the transmission. Thanks!
Will you be doing a video dedicated to fluids? What is the right fluid for the steering box, transmission, and transfer case. What is your favorite and why. GL-5 no good in the trans or transfer?
I have all the fluids needed for all the parts on your willys . I have been selling the correct lubricants for many years to the folks who are looking for the correct fluid. if you need anything let me know. Will be doing a short video on the CJ3A project when I fill the transmission, transfer case, and overdrive.
Would like to see a shift cover rebuild video
Mayor Fuglycool
If you decide to remove the oil collector, you can cut/grind the thin sheet metal part off, and grind the remaining thick part smooth and return it to its original position, using the original bolts with some thread sealer to hold it in place. Fills the holes, nothing to come loose inside, and free.
That is exactly what I do on my T90 rebuilds.
Your very helpful
Excellent video as always. I am prepping my T90 for a rebuild currently. Where did you source your rebuild kit and replacement NOS parts? Also what cleaning solvent is safe for the gears? I unfortunately don’t have a cleaning tank. just a couple oil pans.
Diesel fuel works great for cleaning gears and misc. parts. Give Pete DeBella a call for good parts 631 874 8660 . Tell him that Brian from UA-cam sent you and you are looking for quality parts. He will take care of you.
metalshaper Thank you sir. I now have his number saved. I’m starting the cleanup and tear down this weekend
Just double checked all of my parts and they are really rough with a lot of slop in them or binding. Gave Pete DeBella a call and ordered pretty much all of the internal parts, except the cluster gear and input shaft since they were in really great shape. I let him know you pointed me in his direction
I am rebuilding a T84 transmission in my 1942 Willys MB. Your videos have helped me tremendously. Thanks so much. I have an issue with the steel washer on the back side of the cluster gear. If I line the small pin in the case with the hole in the washer it offsets the washer so I can’t slide the shaft in. I assume the pin is to keep the washer from spinning. Do I drill a slightly larger hole in the washer to move it into place?
Very helpful now I understand why dads trany would kick out of 2 and 3 and occasionally lock out the shifter I told him I thought the trany needed work he said their cheap and bought another used one lol I wonder about grandmas jeep it had a 3 in the tree and was supposed to be a 40s model it took 3/4 spark plugs and had a flathead engine but the carb stood higher than the hood not sure what model it was I thought it was a cj2a
I put the cluster together with the 6 washers as original but its like 1/8" short from being flush with the ends is that normal? Thanks
Not a problem, the washers should be set in a bit on each end
@@metalshaperJeep The cluster shaft started leaking out the front so i had to pull it apart and goop it up. Luckily i dont have the body on yet.
Details at every step, wonderful shop teaching. How do I contact you for lubricant?
metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
I hope I can do my like you did it give me lots of good tips
Good luck!
Hi Brian. This video has been very helpful to me. Unless I missed it will you ever be doing a video of the T84 rebuild? I’ve not been able to find any actual specs on counter gear and main shaft end play. Thanks
excuse me , me inglish is very bad I write from Latin America...
i'm trying to get seal of the direct ( minute 47:28 ).. many people here tell me that there is no ,but now I see you placing it ....
what material do you use ? this is an original replacement?
I also need the washer that works behind the bearing ( in the direct ) .. please if you can tell me all the dimensions, in order to get something similar..
I hope my words are understood .. thank you very much for all the videos!
That seal is standard in all T-90 gasket and seal kits.
A great set of videos. I just dismantled a rusted T87D heavy duty transmission. Cluster gear is so pitted that it must be replaced. There is a little pitting on the main shaft and second gear teeth and splines also. In what way could pitting affect shifting ability on this gearbox? I'm not sure I can find a second gear or main shaft for this thing. Any advice on how I can recondition these in case I cannot replace them? Thanks!
Who do you recommend buying the rebuild parts from?
Question. I am in need of a new cluster gear. The one that came with my m38 is pitted badly (sat in water) and another I acquired is also pitted and worn badly. Who do you recommend that I purchase a new one from? Ebay as a million of them but are made overseas. You do this all the time so I thought I would ask who you use. Thanks.
I just picked up the parts to rebuild my T90 and second gear won't go onto the main shaft past the snap ring groove that holds the gear in place. Thoughts?
Where did you get the second gear and mainshaft, there is a lot of junk out there so let me know where you bought it. Next measure the mainshaft OD and the second gear ID so I can see how much of a problem there is going to be.
Brian
I picked up all of the internals except first gear and and the gear and shaft for reverse from Kaiser Willys. I try to avoid the "Georgia parts" like the plague.
The main shaft measures 1.3720 in the area in front of the 2nd gear snap ring and 1.3745 rear of the snap ring groove.
The bushing inside 2nd gear measures 1.379.
I slid the gear on as far as it would go without force and spun it a bit, then I flipped it over and did it again.
This left a shiny ring on the inside of the bushing, about 1/8" wide about .5 inches from the rear face of the gear. It looks like I have a tight spot inside the bushing.
Very common problem with reproduction gears made overseas. You can get an expandable reamer and just take a light cut on the bushing inside the gear if it won't go on. Do not make it oversize as that will lead to other problems. The size is good , you just have to get out the high spot on the bushing. You have to be careful where you buy parts these days there is a lot of junk out there. Let me know how it goes.
Brian
That's what I was thinking. It's good to be validated by a pro. Thanks!
I'll report back when I have it together.
Les
Brian, I rebuilt my 1955 Willy's CJ5 T90 and Dana 18 transfer case. Does the vent in the transfer case also vent the transmission? It looks like it is leaking from the input shaft and the top gasket for the shiftier. It seems hot but I don't know how hot it was before I rebuilt it. Thx, Don
What’s your recommendation for cleaning up gears? Just disassembled mine and they need some loving.
Parts washer to remove oil and grime. More serious trouble I use walnut shells or fine glass beads in the blast cabinet. Or just get new parts if they are beyond clean up
Hey do they make replacement bushings for the 2nd gear and/or the reverse gear? My gears seem to be in good condition but it’d be nice to have the peace of mind of the bushings being replaced.
Why no sealed bearing at back what stops oil migration from transfer to transmission
Thanks for putting this out! Great video. Don't know what happened to my spacer on the rear bearing, guess it got chewed up, so I have to get one ordered before I can finish. A new cluster gear shaft came with my kit from novak, but the old one fits into the case holes on each end better, and the new one has grooves on each end versus just the keeper groove on the original. I can feel no wear on the old one, I think I might just use the old one, if that makes sense. Do you drive the idler shaft and the cluster gear in so that the keeper is flat against the case? I can't remember what it looked like when I tore it apart.
Make sure you get that spacer in there or you will have problems. It doesn't make a difference on the shafts, a groove all around or just a slot. Either way install them most of the way thru, put the keeper plate in there and then lightly tap them up against the case. Not too hard or the shaft will act like a shear and cut the keeper plate. Just a light tap. Make sure the plate is inside the gasket and it won't interfere with the transfer case. Watch the video carefully, I explain it all in detail.
My husband enjoys your videos. I was curious if you check the in play on the main shaft of the T90 transmission. The spacer is not wide enough on a lot of transmissions I have worked on. It will fly out of second gear.
I check it but don't usually have any problems with the end play. I have rebuilt hundreds of t-90s and that is not a common problem. there are a few reasons for slipping out of second gear but main shaft is not a common one.
@@metalshaperJeep ok. Thanks. I appreciate your videos. You do good work. Some of the best I've been seen in my working on jeeps for years.
Thanks
Nice video!
I have 1953 willys pickup. Drive spring summer and fall. Temps between 40-85.
Which blend? How much is the oil?
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list with ordering instructions.
Brian
Hi, Your videos are a lot of help. I'm doing my T90. Here's my question. I'm using a front sealed bearing and removing the rear seal of that bearing as you show in this video. Then you say to leave the oil return hole at 7 o'clock on the front of the case open. So with the front side of the bearing sealed and oil not coming into the bearing cover, why would this return oil hole want to be left open? The hole is outside of the bearing on the now "dry side" of the bearing. My Novak kit says to plug it. This is my first plunge into the T90 on my '49 3A and I want to get it right the first time. Am I all messed up or what? Thanks, Jeff
you can leave it open or plug it, does not really matter. I have had bearings in the past begin to leak after a few years and if oil does get past the seal it has no way to drain back into the case so I always leave them open. I have tried all different manufacturers of bearings and 99% of the time no oil will ever come out....... but I always like to plan ahead for problems. Also if you use the proper lube that I sell the chances of the bearing leaking are even less so the choice is up to you to plug it or not. Good luck with the rebuild,
Brian
I just wish I had snap ring pliers. '2 flat blades and a microphone' is all I have. But it worked fine, so far.
I didn't see you add the oil retainer washer to the main shaft at the rear. Is it not necessary?
the washer was used on MB's and very early CJ2A vehicles. It was discontinued during early 2a production.
@@metalshaperJeepthank you for that information. That adds more detail to my Frankenstein '48. It has VEC parts. I guess that could include the transmission internals. Or someone just unnecessarily added it, I guess.
Hello Again, been watching and following your T90 rebuild and has been an immense help! Thanks for the reply to my last question too. I have another question, I finished the T90 rebuild, but it's a bit stiff in the turning of the gears. Nothing is hemmed up, all turn just a bit tight. Yours appears to turn a bit more freely. Is this normal? Thanks again for your help and advice.
Tony
the usual place for drag is from the blocking rings being new. Take a screwdriver and make sure they are not too tight,.....pry them back . Next it will turn a bit stiff when new and has no lube in it. If it turns by hand you should be ok. Lube will make a big difference. I have the correct lube if you need it. Do not use any modern gear oil or any type of differential lube like 80w-90.
Brian
I have my motor out now. Can I change the bearing to a sealed one just from the front or do I have to take shifter off ?
The Shift dogs or shift plates, just how important are they? I ask because there usually broken or missing altogether in few t 90 and t 84 transmissions that I've been in.
I followed your video to rebuild my T90, when slidingvshaft through I had difficulty with the countetshaft thrust washer and spacer being in the way.,I finally got them out of the way and completed build. Connected to transfer case then motor. Shifts into reverse and 1st no problem (engine not running) but seen to have difficulty shifting into 2nd and 3rd. Did I get thrust washer and spacer wrong? Do I have to tear apart again?
Very common for the blocking rings to get stuck in place. Pull the cover and with a screwdriver gently pry blocking ring away from second gear and third gear and you should be fine.
what type thread sealant are you using on bolts also where are you getting your sealed bearings. Thanks Mike
So what 90W gear oil do you reccomend for transition and transfer case with overdrive???
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list of lubricants.
Did I miss what the proper gear oil is to put in here? I picked up on the corrosive nature of modern gear oils, but didn't hear what I should use.
Question, what is the dimensions of the spacer @ 43:40 , and where can I get them ? I need to make one like it about 2.100" in length for a Muncie/Dana 18 marriage I am doing with an Advance Adapter old school kit. The problem is that I am using an Overdrive and there is nothing for the center of the bearing to torque against when torquing the overdrive to 120 lbs ft.. So I am going to have to make something.
I just completed a rebuild, and have a very bad leak between the transmission and the transfer case -
They are not installed on the Jeep, just filled them with oil sitting on the bench
I have some pictures of the leak / area in question
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance
A leak in that area is usually due to the lock plate that is between the countershaft and reverse idler shaft being in the way. The ones that come in the kits are big and have to be installed perfectly to fit inside the transfer case recess. Chances are yours is out of position a little and not allowing the cases to come together tightly, causing the leak.
@@metalshaperJeep thanks for the quick response!
I think you are right, as I didn’t get a perfect fit as you describe - I didn’t realize it was important for the marriage between the transmission and transfer case
I will separate them and take a look
Thanks again
when i took out cluster gear of 1950 willys cj3a, there was 4 washers and 88 needle bearings. With only 4 washers what is the order of washers and needle bearings? Do you leave out a washer next to spacer?
If you have the larger spacer and 4 washers then you leave out the ones closest to the spacer. Spacer in the middle, needle bearings, washer, needle bearings and washer on both sides of spacer.
Sir I watch a Rick Stiver video and he installs the washer with the flange away from the front bearing which way does the factory install it?
Hello, I have another question. I installed did the full rebuild on T90 and was great. Just used your videos... I am attempting to place the too shifter and it will not go into any gear. Just like its froze in position... is there a trick to this? It must be a issue only I have, since I haven't located anyone at any time online or UA-cam with this... pls help! I'm stuck... thanks.
Brian i have the early CJ2A with the longer tube and four washers. Whats the sequence?
Well tonight I had a look inside the gusset model of D-25 and all I saw was a dana gasket and rust you won't believe. But where I live rust and dust is a protectorent! Wait till I get these babies all shined up! At least there's an axle on both sides!
I’ve got it T 84, that jumps out of second when you press on the Excelerator, I am unsure if it is some thing I did wrong when assembling or a different issue. It is not the same issue that most people have when it jumps out of second due to wear and tear on the synchronizerI think because it doesn’t jump out when engine braking. Have you run into this before? Or have any insight that might help me?
Case could be worn beyond acceptable limits. Perhaps you needed to shim it but didn't or didn't do it correctly. Worn parts, hard to know what is going on until you tell me what you replaced and what the quality of the parts was.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep my cousin and I rebuilt the whole transmission and replaced pretty much everything. Crown we used crown parts except for the small parts kit. That came from Ron Fitzpatrick. Can you tell me more about how I can reshim
The only thing we didn’t replace was the shift collar, which we thought was good
I've learned considerable amount on your videos and wondered if you rebuilt Transmissions and sell lubricant. I would like to know how to contact you to buy some. Thank you
you can reach me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
I sell lube and rebuild every component of a Willys Jeep. Brian
Question, little confusing info here. I had to order a new hardware set for bolting up the transmission to transfer case (5bolts, 3 long 2 shorts) Kaiser willys says the manual is 5 bolts of the same length. So I ordered that kit, your video says two shorts in certain spots. What should I do
Not sure what length bolts you have, but the main thing is to make sure you don't have any interference with anything when bolting things together. Maybe you have all short bolts in your kit and won't have a problem. If not then follow along on my video and put the short bolts in the locations that I have shown.
Brian
Hello again, can you tell me the best lubrication to use for my T90 and Dana 18. Rebuilt them using your vids! Awesome experience! Now getting ready to reinstall then will need to fill them. Thanks.
Any gear oil should be fine, 75w90
Where can I purchase that sealed front bearing?
B2rian, I just rebuilt my t90 and Dana 18 transfer case. I is leaking around the top shift plate and the input shaft. I sealed all bolts and gaskets with permatex #2. Does the t90 vent through the transfer case? Maybe building up pressure inside.
yes it does vent easily thru transfer case. I never had a problem with pressure building up in the transmission. What type of gear oil are you using. If you are not using the correct stuff and are just putting in standard 80w-90 it will have a tendency to leak out because it isn't the correct lube and it to thin.
@@metalshaperJeep I used Red Line Mt-90 GL4 gear lube
I finally got back on the t90, and finished it up. Everything went together fine, but I can't get the hub to slide back and forth (by hand) to engage 2nd and 3rd gear. Before I put it back in the cj2a, should I make sure that is ok? Everything rotates like you show in the video, and I don't think the blocking ring is bound. Thanks again
It can be tricky to get it to engage when the shaft isn't turning, but by moving things around you should be able to get into second and third. bolt the cover on and see if you can shift while it is on the bench. You want to make sure there are no problems before you install it.
I ended up replacing the new springs in the hub with the old springs, now it shifts ok, but the old springs still seem fine, still keep it from flopping around.Had another weird problem. Went to bolt it up to the transfer case, and where the idler shaft plate matches up with the tips of the shafts sticking out, there is only room for the stock plate, which was a very narrow plate that was angled on both ends. If it isn't perfectly located, it would keep the transfer case from mating up. I think I'm just going to take a grinder (very carefully) and grind out the metal between the two pockets, enough to where a trimmed plate like you showed would fit. It looks nothing like the pocket on your transfer case. Thanks!
Ok, if you have it shifting good now then all should be good. As far as bolting them together it can be challenging sometimes because of the plate. You can trim the plate to fit, it just has to be in the groove of the shafts to keep them from moving. I think it would be easier to cut the plate smaller than grinding out the transfer case, but do what you have to so they mate up properly or the lube will just run right out of there.
where is the 6th washer....i count 1 washer plus 22, 2 washer, plus 22, 3 washer plus 22, 4 washer plus 22 and final 5th washer...and not a 6th washer....what am i missing...?
rebuilding my t90 the cluster gears fit in very snug into the case have new washer & thrust washers.. when i installed the cluster had to use a mallot to help set into the bottom is this anything to be concerned about thanks
the cluster gear should slide in easily by hand, if you had to pound it in there you are going to have some problems.
@@metalshaperJeep you recommend buff down a thrust washer then
@@bobberg1541 put the flat rear washer on a magnetic table on the surface grinder and take .001" passes and keep trying it. You want a perfect fit easily installed by hand
@@metalshaperJeep got that taken care of drops in smooth now [thanks] how do you feel about kaiser willy co in S.C. put it back together with new second gear and it binds up found out its a few thousands to thick they are sending another one from a different suppler . need to get with you about selling me the fluids r what to use for every thing trans/ t/case steering gear and the rear main plugs at the seal i can send my phone # if you want
Up working before the rooster crows.
What's the part number for that sealed input bearing?
Nice it did help me thanks
can I soda blast my shift forks and grease everything to make sure it looks brand new as well....?
sure, soda blasting is very gentle on parts so no worries about doing any damage to the forks.
Great video, I have a 1964 scout 80 with a T90 transmission, T18 spacer and worn overdrive that I just rebuilt, what kind of fluid do I use
I have the correct lube for your setup. Contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can give you pricing information and shipping details.
I have a 1960 Jeep CJ 5 //THEY LET IT SIT for some years not running stock motor //and its soaking the rings //
I just brought my 1946 willy's jeep it been saying in a garage for 30 years
I had a guy working on this for me and put it all back together and the shafts are locked up. Any ideas?
your synchro rings may be sticky on second and third gear. Take the top off and place a flat blade screwdriver between gear and blocking ring and pry it off gear. that usually fixes things. Drip some oil in there and it should fix it. If the transfer case is already attached perhaps someone put too long a bolt in there and it has bound against the cluster gear locking things up. Let me know how it goes.
Brian
Sir
What trans oil do you use?
Matt
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list of lubricants.
What's the best way to get a hold of you for a quote on rebuilding either t90 or D18 ?
metalshaper@comcast.net is the best way to get a hold of me.
Brian
Do you put any sealant on the gasket between the transmission and transfer case?
just a dab or two in a few places to hold the gasket in place. No need for sealer on the entire gasket. it will seal fine, just make sure it stays in place and does not move.
Brian
metalshaper hi Brian,thank you for your help. I'm from ct also, chuck barnes told me about you and to look you up. My father in law and I are restoring a 46 cj2a that we rescued from the woods in ct.
Jason, good to hear from you. You can contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Let me know how the project is going.
Brian
What threat sealant are you using, not loctite, just sealant correct. ?
Watch the videos I went over it in detail in the video.
@douglasbattjes3991 I think it’s Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker
Do you offer these rebuilt? I need to purchase one.
Hey bro where are you located? I could use a floor from front to back.
I am located in Connecticut.
Flat fender willys mbs,cj ,and a couple of various projects
Let me know what you need.
Send photos to metalshaper@comcast.net
What rebuild kit do you prefer?
What parts are you needing, just small parts kit ?? or gears as well? There is a tremendous amount of poor quality parts out there so if you let me know what you need I can try to direct you in the right direction to get them.
Small parts kit and a reverse Idler. Thank you.
You can get good quality parts from Pete DeBella. You can reach him at 631 874 8660. Tell him that Brian sent you and tell him what you are looking for and he will set you up with the best parts available
Awesome much appreciated
Where did you purchase the sealed bearing? Can you send me a web address please?
This is my wife's computer and I see her picture came up on the post....... Ha Ha ......Virginia Esely is not doing the T90 ....Thanks, Jeff