DTC 19463 Camshaft Position Sensor No Signal - Intermittent Error
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2017
- Short video on how to diagnose the Camshaft Position Sensor (Hall sender -G40) on VW TDI vehicles. This can be used also on other type of vehicles.
Error codes might be :
19463/P3007/012295 Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): No Signal
19463/P3007/3510 Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): No Signal - Intermittent
Or any other Camshaft Position related errors.
Remember I am doing this at home in my own garage. - Авто та транспорт
Nea' Gigi God bless you,man! After spending 150€ (on my passat, i had multiple sensor problems: N75+ Brake Switch Light+ Camshaft Position Sensor+Manifold). After changing camshaft and brake switch,nothing happened...I changed all fused,and again nothing...Finally i bought a multimeter,and i checked like you...And surprise,surprise i got 0V on PIN1(and u said this problem is from 109 relay--THIS SAVED MY LIFE,cuz i realised is just a fuse or relay problem). I looked for it,but i didn't find this relay,i looked for 34 position fuse,but agained i didn't have it(on passat is an empty field). Finally,i looked on ECU box, and i find a tiny and insignifiant piece of fuse,i checked it with multimeter and was burned...So that little s***t maked me to spend alot of money(in Romania 150€ are alot of money for a 20 yo guy). So guys,just buy a multimeter+ vcds ,this little things will save ur time and money.
Thank you alot,man!!!
Sa cresti mare :) Thanks for watching.
This was well illustrated, even me without background I feel confident now about it.
You said the wire was shorted, I understood you meant the circuit was open😉. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video i managed to sort the problem your video was straight to the point thanks mate keep on doing the best job
Hey. Watched your video. It helped a lot. In my case, the sensor of the camshaft rotation was defective. Thank you so much.
Thks this video was very helpful.You made my day.
Thank you so much for everything man👍👍
Wow! This video is really helpful... Bigups👍
Thank you for this video. I could solve my problem through it. In my case was pin 1 (12 volt) the issue. This cause 2 problems. 1 long starting.2 Losing power.
Thank you for the effort, you’ve fix it.
multumim de video, foarte bun!
I was always taught not to front probe a wiring connector, as you could spread the connector to get a poor connection, always use a plug in connection plug which had testing wires of it or back probe the connector but then u need to replace the weather seal if it external to car but each to there own. Good video.
Well, we work with what we have at hand :) I am doing this as a DIY and work with the tools at hand... until now worked fine. And at that connector to be honest there are very slight chances to get any water ingress. Thanks for watching.
if i have good understand CONNECTOR WAS PROBLEM and yes very good video i need change tommorow on skoda roomster 14 tdi camshaft sensor for my costumer and you save my time and unnessesary investigation THANKS A LOT NICE VIDEO
Excellent work thank you
Nicely found! Did you pull the wiring harness apart to find the exact location of the failure? Did it have other wires that were also close to breaking? Our customers usually just want the minimum repair... so we would probably only have fixed the one wire and not checked for the exact point of failure.
Same here, guy wanted to pay nothing if possible. So he got what he paid for. I did not took everything apart, just pulled a new extra wire in parallel with the old one. Meassured 5cm from the connector on both sides to be sure it is not the contact and added the wire. So he did not want to pay me to replace entire wiring from the connector. He said : You can even leave the white wire hanging if it wold not cost me anything :)
So I guess people are the same everywhere.
At least we will have work in the future... once other wires start to go! =) Have a good weekend!
lo a probado para un Volkswagen touran me funciona perfectamente gracias por información
thank you!!!!!!!!!! you are god.. you just make my day..
Muy buen video amigo!!!
Great video of how to find a faulty sender, we have the same problem, when we fitted a new sender and it started instantly,
but stopped when the key was off cranking, wouldn't run again until we unplugged the sensor again, same problem again poor starting taking 5-8 seconds to start.
Dang, I love your video! Very clear and to the point. I am experiencing the same problem I believe, just have to wait till the weather is better to test the ECM to CPS sockets for continuity. What does a malfunctioning camshaft position sensor cause? Poor mileage?
Poor mileage and the car has a very hard time starting. Sometimes will stop while driving.
Thanks for the detailed analysis of the problem. Very helpful!
Helped alot thanks
Salutare! Am un Passat 1.9-131cp, iar de cateva zile nu imi mai pleaca turbina, defectul fii d aparent dupa ce am gasit firul de la supapa de control a presiuni pentru turbo desizolat, atingandu-se de caroserie. Am schimbat supapa, dar problema persista. Ce recomanzi? App.... mi-a fost de un real ajutor clipul tau! Mersi mult!
Good evening bro , i have same problem in my car , volkswagen golf 1,9 TDI variant 2008 , Glow plug lamp on/of When increasing the speed or changing the gear speed, I changed the Glow plug and then its relay (under the battery), then I change camshaft sensor, and the problem remains, I will check the cables, thank you for this video, I am a mechanic with a ship, the first time I deal with engines Little 🤭🤫
Salutare, ce voltaj trebuie sa arate pinul 2?
Thank you for the video!
Just today I've had to do something similar even before watch your video.
New sensor installed but there still is error in VCDS: signal not plausible.
I test the cables from the plug until the ECU and all are low ohms and via multimeter shows that should be fine...
Engine is 1.9TDi PD - 77kw AVQ if that matter.The only thing is that everyone said that sensor should be supplied with +12V and Ground, but on contact on the positive pin i get every time steady +5V !?!
Power supply is from ECU pin not common via relay.. so can't be sure is that correct that all G40 sensors on VAG TDI should be with 12V supply or some new (as that 2004 VW) can be with 5V..
Will check the signal type with oscilloscope, and suspect that the cable loom create some induction but any tip will be great 👍
Did you found out anything?
In the 1.9 tdi asz engine, there is lubrication in the slot of the crankshaft sensor. When I enter it with a thin hose to get the accumulated oil from this slot, it pulls from the oil pan. What could be the reason.
I’m having a similar issue with my blue wire not giving 12v this issue is happening at my vac box and cam sensor so no boost and running very rough
Salut cu respect. Am o octavia 2 facelift 1.6 noi cod motor bse. Vara pe canicula imi porneste la a 3 a cheie dau la automat si nu o ia. Am schimbat pompa de benzina, supapa n 80, senzorul de poziție de la vibrochen, senzor temperatura antigel si bujiile si degeaba. Pe tester nu imi da nici o eroare. Singurul lucru neschimbat ar fi senzorul de pozitie de la axa cu came. Un sfat o idee in situatia asta. Si cand porneste miroase a benzina rau.
Do you think the sensor was faulty anyway or the wire was always the culprit? It is also possible that the other guy screwd up the wire while fiddling with the connector!
ciocclaude I am sure the other guy did not screwed the connector as the owner went to the workshop with the error and left from there with the same error even after changing the sensor.
I have same error code on my Skoda Fabia vrs but the car starts straight away with no problems.
Glowplug light constantly flashing
hi mine i was drive cut off i chack 3 pins pin1.2.45v pin2 2.44. pin 2.44 crank shaft sansor also chack from ecu same
Thank you a lot for this video, I hAve p3008 and really checked everything on the timing and now i just dont know what to do, do you have expierience on this fault code it sayt permanent fault p3008 even if i delete it it comes back
I have the same issue.. have you sorted it?
buna,imi poti trimite schita de la senzor g40 pana la ecu pt un alhambra 2005 1.9 ?
Your videos are helpful all times thanks for them🙏 but i need help if you can please! My car Peugeot 107, P0010 cod have no connection to VVT-ventil. I check it with digital diagram and there no connection in the cable/ lin. I don’t know how to fix the lin?
Pull new LIN cable from somewhere else in the car. It's like a network , so you can connect anywhere on the LIN network.
@@jaxelos8052 do you have any video to show? Or recommend any videos? Thanks
What website did you use for the wiring manual
No website was used. Just used common diagnostic skills.
Where goes pin 1? I have 0.0w from it
HI Gigi,
I have a Seat Leon 1.9 TDI BXE 105 HP with the same error on VCDS and the person which made de test told me that I have to replace the camshaft sensor. My car starts fine when the coolant temperature is below 70 degrees but when it goes up to 90 degrees it starts after 6-10 cranks.
After I saw your video I took the tension within the connector like you did and I had the following results: Pin1 = 5.05 V, Pin2 = 5.05 V and Pin3 = 0.01 V. According to these measurements I have no wiring issue, am I right?
The only thing left to do is change the sensor?
Change the sensor or make hot start fix in software. Car needs to be remapped. Ask a local tuner he can fix in 5 min.
Are you sure is not a wiring issue?
I was thinking to check the connector from the ECU and if everything is ok I will replace the sensor.
I don't know what to say about the software fix... Is it safe?
Alex, I used to have a similar problem to you; car would start fine when cold but would take more spins on the starter motor when the engine was hot. I had the engine remapped to solve this hot start problem about 18 months ago and it worked perfectly. The root cause is that there are two different fuel maps for hot and cold starting. The hot starting map is too lean and has unrealistic expectations of cranking speed before it will start injecting at all. The remap is a good solution to this. However! Now after about 18 months I have a different hot starting problem! If I try to start the car when it is hot it sounds like hell is breaking loose inside my engine. I have replaced the camshaft sensor and timing belt kit but it hasn't improved my hot start problem. I actually get better hot starting performance with my camshaft sensor unplugged. It takes a few spins to start but the actual start is fine, no juddering or noises. I am now wondering if it is my crankshaft speed sensor that is bad. I understand that the engine produces a "torsion" value in VCDS which is the difference in phase between the crank and camshaft positions, effectively producing the injection retardation or advance. My torsion values in VCDS are crazy, completely unstable, physically imposssible numbers. It goes from 0° to 62° to 0° in less than a second. I have a video of this on my channel now. Based on your video JAX I do not think my problem can be the camshaft position sensor as I have replaced it and the wiring to the sensor connector seems okay. I'm not looking forward to digging down to the crankshaft sensor to test it.
Georg : I would look for the issue at the starter or flywheel.
Hi Georg,
I'm sorry to hear about your issue.
I've changed the sensor and the car was still cranking.
I went back to the mechanic and he put it on VCDS again and I saw that the camshaft position sensor error was gone. Good news for me because I didn't throw my money out the window after all, the original sensor was faulty.
Next, he checked the wiring and found no issue there.
Finally he cleaned up the starter and the car starts almost perfect, it still cranks one or two times and gets a little bit shaky but the most important thing is that the car starts when the engine is hot.
I won't go for the hot fix for the moment, I will try to recondition the starter (change the core components) and see how it goes.
Did you try to clean or recondition the starter? Maybe this will clear out the hot starting issue for your car.
my polo 2009 tdi crank sensior sends error when the car is hot - it takes longer to start but no issue in cold start.. the sensor location is very awkward behind timing belt.. is there any way to replace without taking off TB.. pls. help with an advice
You could probably fix this with a remap of your vehicle , the injection timing on hot , on some software is wrong and can be fixed by a so called "Hotstart" fix in the engine software.
very good master
Hi, I have an issue with starting my vw t5 hot or cold crank. Revs with misfires @ 2000 revs on its own, after a couple of minutes it drops slowly back to normal idle speed. Dtc code comes up in instrument cluster, abs & gateway P01341 intermittent/implausible no communication. When I delete the code it starts perfect but only once & the codes are back. A couple of times but no usually during a bad start the asr light, fan came on & no crank/turn over when key is turned. I have it uploaded on my UA-cam channel. Any ideas?.... Where are you based? Thanks
When the fans come on , it's usually the ECU. I would start following wires from ECU towards the engine bay. Also check the grounds.
@@jaxelos8052 thanks a lot for the advice
the car will start at normal idling then after i minute it wil pick idling upto 10, then the fan runs
I have only 1-3 volts...
Even out of the ecu...
Ecu Broken?
Or bad ground.
Hey, i replaced the sensor to no help, still no signal fault in Vcds. Pin 3 doesnt show any voltage putting the other probe to positive battery terminal, however the resistance is around 0.8 ohm all the way to ECU so it is good. I gave all connectors good clean. Any ideas what to do next?
Have you any solution? Thank you
Hey man, great video, please tell me, I have similar problem with my 2.0 tdi engine, long cranking at first start, but if I stop the engine and crank it again it’s start with no problems, also every crank in that same day starts’up with no problem, the long crank usually happens after the car is not started for more then 15-20 hours, and some times, on very rare occasions when I’m in third or forth gear the engine stumbles when I accelerate it, this happens...I don’t know, once a week or two, so, took the car to the mechanic, diagnose it and the g40 sensor came up short or open, ok, replaced the sensor deleted the error and after a week or so the engine started to stumble again in third gear when accelerating, took it back to the mechanic, diagnose it and no errors found!!!!!!! A few days later, after sitting over night, first crank took a little longer than usual, so ok, back to the mechanic, diagnose it again and the g40 sensor came up “implausible signal” deleted the error, took it for a drive to take some log’s, everything was ok, the error didn’t show up, but the stumble manifested again later on, with no errors, do you have any idea what should I look for, what can cause this problem??? I’m going nuts here, please help me🙏.
Did you manage to fix this issue?
@Ak Fish, yes, it’s fixed, do you have the same problem???mine was specific to my engine and it doesn’t apply to any other engine!!
@@danielmihai300can I know what specific engine you have and what was the issue? Having a similar issue with a 2.0 TDI 150 CKFC
@@seblecrab hello, 2.0 TDI, euro6 no adblue, and It was kind of specific to my engine generation, because it was the first gen TDI with a vvt system (variable valve timing), and the vvt system was the culprit for the long cranking, replaced the vvt system, and the problem was solved, actually the problem was solved by “diagnose Dan” his got a video on his channel with the same engine and same fault!
Hi! Very useful video. BUT what was the Voltage on Pin2 AFTER your repair please? ? I measured my voltage as 12v, 5v & 0v on the 3 pins. All I want to know is whether the 5v is normal or indicates a fault, before I spend money changing a sensor unnecessarily. I WOULD check the resistance, like in your video, but my wiring is different & the ECU under the passenger seat & I do not have a wiring diagram! Many thanks, hopefully this will help everyone else in the same position...
Any luck figuring out the correct voltage on pin 2?
@@vmdumitrache My understanding is Ground: 0 then Signal ( middle ) should be 10-12v and power should be 5. My signal is 6v, so now I am trying to figure out what to do next.
Hello. I have an problem with Audi A3 2.0 tdi, 2008. Found:
000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 000 - Implausible Signal
I have changed sensor, glow plug, it's a new timing belt... The engine doesn't start and this error it's stil there... I have checked the wiring, i have 5v on 1 and 2 pins and 0 on pin 3..
Check if the signal of the CRANKSHAFT is in sync with camshaft and if it can actually read signal under start attempt.
@@GigiBeleaDK Hi Gigi, how i do this? I change the sensor anda have implausible signal.
hello mate i have having same problem pin one and pin 2 are both reading 5v what do u think is wrong with mine
Short to reference voltage... check wires. Sensor must be disconnected when you check.
Bun nea Gigi
I need the electronic in Durban
Hola mi Volkswagen sharan se acelera sola y no responde el acelerador ni rmp
im having golf 5 2.0TDI for year 2004. is giving me a problem, i took it for diagnosing, it detected camshaft position sensor no signal and to check DTC memory of electric load controller. what could be the problem
Hii Gigi
i have the same problem ---- 16725 - camshaft position sensor (g40) p0341 - 00-10 - implausible signal - intermittent
the measured values are 1-12.55v --- 2-4.99v and 3-0.0v
It is the fault of the sensor or the cable
Thank you
Did you find it the problem
Good work but for other People is soo hord to find aout
Video quality not good
No everybody has money to buy super dupper recording equipment :)
Please turn off your flash on camera