Classic Car and Truck Light Socket Replacement | Chevy C10 How to
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- How to replace tail light bulb sockets on a Chevy C10. This also works for just about any other classic car or truck. These sockets are for 1156/1157 bulbs, however the process is the same for most other light bulb sockets.
1156/1157 Sockets:
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The issue with old trucks is that the tail lights ground through the box of the truck. Over time the box has a poor ground connection to the frame, which leads to dim/not working tail lights. You should solder a ground wire to the bulb socket and run it to the frame of the truck. (I recommend running your negative battery cable to the frame as well, and redo all ground straps too) What I did on mine is I bought the tail light sockets that have a ground tab where you can add a ground wire. This issue had me tracing wires for two weeks! hope this helps.
Sweet, you want everyone to know your slowing or stopping and doing this will help, as long as they are not texting about the taco photo know one cares about. Just a friendly tech tip: These bulbs should be clocked correctly, so find the short & long tabs of the socket for this dual filament bulb. With the socket removed, sandblast and spray the best silver paint inside except where the bulb socket fits. Don’t bother with mirror paint! Note the bulb gets its ground via socket to housing, housing to screws to bed. Grounds are as important as B+. Wire wheel the backside and heat the bottom and tin it with flux, thin coat of solder. The new socket has a cadmium conversion coating on zinc, wire wheel at 1/4” off the bottom. Once installed as he has shown, add flux, heat & solder socket to housing. Fresh paint or 55 year old patina will present a bad connection for ground called voltage drop. Simply known as resistance. Once the socket is soldered to the housing, clean the mount screw holes with sandpaper, stone on dremal but use star washers. Their jagged points (Internal on screws, external on bolts) dig into metal. I use dielectric grease on the bulb, under the socket contacts & on top of grounds. This eliminates the moisture like dew on morning grass, from getting to know your local sheriffs deputy and pink paper. I go as far as adding a second ground from the housing to the bed with 1/4” female & male spade connectors with grease because they want to be together. Plus, dielectric grease, a lube, just makes everything better. Don’t forget to ground the bed to the frame in two points as well. Yes, it’s work, rewarding and still cheaper that pink paper from the kind officer!
NIASE Master Tech - Retired
Exactly what I needed
Great great video. Only the steps we need and no blah blah blah 👍🏼
If you use use a die grinder to take off the inner edge , you don't read have to spend much time trying to bend it back with a screwdriver.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Currently doing this on an Austin Healey, so this is very helpful.
Great information!!!
Thanks for watching!
That turned out really good those should work just great is the outer housing the ground? I guess so if that's why it's metal and Metal.
Yes the housing works as a ground in most older cars… which is why bulbs not working can normally be due to back sockets or grounds.
On those sockets the two wires are black. How do I know what to wire to if there not color coded?
when you had the drill anyway, you could have drilled out the old socket
What was the socket part number ?
Dorman 85803 would work.
@@RustnAway Thanks!
The bulb isnt coming out so I cant get to the next steps. I feel a little dumb rn did it just twist our for you 1:07
I had the same problem. It took a while but no I managed to do it. I had to pay attention to the way it should twist to unlock it