The Sylvania Zevo bulbs have built in diodes that prevent this problem. I ran into this issue with the regular Sylvania LED bulbs and they stated I needed the Zevo bulbs they made. I did a DVOM check and they show a diode built in and work perfect.
Interesting and good info. I actually just did a complete LED upgrade using 1157, 1156 and 94s on my 78 Caprice using similar style bulbs except they are the ones with the projector lenses for the 1157 & 1156s. Only thing I did was upgrade the flasher (adjustable two prong) and reversed the polarity to the flasher.
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica and the front turn signal light is gone... I'm tempted to buy this. so is there any easy way for me to find if it works or not the easy way? or only through trying it first?
I've got a motorhome with LED brake lights each light has about 30 leds in it, they weren't the original lights when the motorhome was built the company changed the lights to Led the original lights on the chassis were halogen I think, recently the light on my dash has been staying on so I checked the brake lights but they're working perfectly but what I did notice is approx. 3 leds in one light and 4 leds in the other light weren't working and I'm wondering if the reason the dash warning light is coming on has something to do with resistance because of a few blown Leds.
Hey Mike.. I'm looking to go LED 100% on my 62 panel (with the exception of the generator light). I saw that if you install a resistor, you can get the LED's to work and flash at the correct blink rate. Have you tried these resistors to see if they work, or have you heard about this?? It's gonna cost a couple of hundred by the time I replace all the bulbs.. but I think all the bulb's will work fine with the exception of the 1157's.. dual purpose/ filament (blinker and brake light).. any input would be appreciated..
I tend to agree with the video. I have a 2005 Acura TL and I put auxito LEDs on the rear blinkers and all is well. The rears are blinkers only. But the front is 1157 combo parking and blinker light. A plain swap obviously did not work. The parking light was dim and it hyperflashed. So, instead of using a resistor to emulate the oem bulb, I skipped the resistor and tied the 1157 led in parallel with the oem bulb. The total current should be slightly less than the oem bulb, as the led 1157 has 8kohm and 6kohm resistance compared to the analog bulb at 1ohm and 2.5ohm.. so basically the led would piggyback off the analog bulb and from the controller stand point, the circuit should look almost the same. Well, the parking side did work this time perfectly and was bright. But when I hit the turn signal, the led bulb would flash on and off but completely opposite timing as the analog bulb and opposite to the other bulbs. The 1157 led would turn off when the 1157 analog would turn on. Or at least, that is how it appeared. I am not for sure what was going on inside that led 1157 but it doesn't work like the 1157 analog.
The stock vulbs do the same thing incandescent shares a ground and if your brakes are on the resistance wont let the tail filliment come to brightness but will still have some voltage. Dont buy cheap leds and you'll have the diode to prevent backflow.
For some reason all my turn signals work except the right rear, both blink but the left is weaker. but when I apply the brakes it works fine.I had all LED lights except the brake light which is separated from the turn signals I recently changed the brake lights now I have the right rear that lights up both unless I hit the breaks
that little converter that they want to sell you gets real hot, it dissipates the heat works, but afraid for it to touch anything 12 volts is just too high. just a jury rig at best.
Hello Mike Thanks for the video. I just installed All LED's in my 2004 Rexhall AERBUS Motorhome. I hooked Up the back first. There was no problem. Then when I hooked up the side front running lights. The same kind you have in the video. The flashes and turn signals did not work. I changed to the LED flasher as you recommended and still nothing. My side markers went off also. When I turned the RV on both the lest and right was lite.What do you think?
I had no problems upgrading my running lights to 1157 LEDs. The kit came with the lights, a digital flasher and a polarity switcher. The whole project took about 30 minutes. I wanted brighter lights due to all the light in today's world combined with the small dim lights on my F100; I was concerned that someone would fail to see the old std bulbs and rearend me.
Add a diode to the feeds. That will prevent the back flow out of the low side. Husky 39871 diode. That is the 2 in and one out option. Roadmaster 690 is a single option.. both are heavy duty. I use the husky for my turn/reverse ...my reverse light flashes with the corresponding side but in reverse the light only illuminates(not the yellow turn just the white)
You dont want the diode inside the housing. You'd want to splice the diode into the wires before it goes into the bulb socket. The only "holes" in a housing is where the bulbs secure into it. So how would you get your wires and diode inside?
They accomplish the dimming by putting a resitor in the "tail light" side. So if you bypassed the resistor it would feed full power back out the other side.. so when you supply power to th brake/turn it feeds back out thru the resistor and back into your tail light circuit. Are you referring to a setup in your bug from your video clips? Im also guessing the turn signal indicator is just a single light? You could also be feeding back thru that single bulb if it is a one indicator light system. That would be why your getting voltage into the opposite side... feel free to correct me if im wrong
@@somethingsomething7899 I used some 100v max 10a diodes from the electronic supply but I still couldnt get 2 sets of leds for each side to work at all.
I have all LED bulbs in my 3 1978 Buick Regals and they work perfectly. Now one brand I did have to add solder to the tips because they weren't long enough to touch the tabs on the inside of my taillights pigtails. When I pressed down on the LED bulbs, they would light up and that's how I figured it out.
For my 68 Firebird I was only able to use one set of LEDs. I put LEDs in my tail lights, I was only able to use those and not for my front side markers. I put a LED blinker relay in my fuse box and now I can have LEDs front and rear.
Good video, there are many different LED wiring configurations. Do a collab with Project Farm to test various brands and report back. I'm making custom lights for my '67 Corvair, many tricks involved.
What about an 1157 for a motorcycle that has a running light and brake light in the same bulb? I bought one of these years ago and it never really worked very well.
Use the Sylvania bulbs..Models that use just a voltage drop for the tail and Brake use the 1156 the front ones you can use the 1157 but I recommend the Sylvania it's a better quality bulb little more money better result
on single bulbs they work perfectly but on dual tail lights on older cars it still feeds back. I used diodes and got one set of tail lights to work. I tried to make 2 rear sets on the same circuit all with diodes and still got feedback somehow.
Surely you are discussing is the brake / tail light combo where the tail light is the lower brightness and the brake is the higher. Also, the turn indicator should show behind the orange lens surely not behind the red brake lens. This is the configuration on my Japanese Toyota. The turn indicator should be a separate bulb with only one central pin and is always bright.
I know this is an older video and I didn't read through all the comments to see if this was mentioned. Another issue with these bulbs you have is that they are the wrong style. At least for the old 60s cars. I bought these by mistake and it took me a bit to figure out the problem. On these they don't line up with the contacts in the socket correctly. The little nub things that lock the bulb in place and hold it are clocked differently so only one side contacts the connector points in the socket. I forget which now but thinking I only had brake lights and no tail lights but might have that backwards. You need the ones with the little round contacts not the bayonet or whatever you call that shape on the ones in your video. I just put the correct contacted bases in my '64 and I have tail and brake lights both like it should be and using the stock flasher at the moment. But the only LED lights I have is in the tail lights as I wanted brighter lights back there as my brake lights aren't that bright. Previously I used 2357 bulbs i believe they were. They are brighter but also heat up more so wouldn't be good in say a '60s impala with the small tail lights. Hope that at least helps someone out a little.
I think you may have bought bulbs with the wrong location pin orientation with regard to your 1st problem. It's easy to get wrong as there are several location pin positions available and only very careful analysis of LED bulbs website information will match with your car's pin orientation specification. Some variants are offset, others 180° opposed.
Thx. I tried to replace my incandescent 1157 Bay15d bulbs with LEDs for the brake/parking lights (they use the same one bulb). After replacing, the lights on when I brake but no light when used for parking lights. Thanks for this video. Was very confused as I thought it was a simple replacement.
Yes, a diode could potentially fix this issue. However, you'd have to remember to bypass the diode if you ever went back to incandescent, as the diode would pass too much current, overheat, and fail.
I have a 1986 f150 with a dual filament 1157 taillight/blinker and I have resistors hooked up and it works. I wanted to buy a different pair of 1157s just like the ones you have in this video wondering if they won't work
God dude I gotta figure this shit out, this helped alot tho. I have a 1987 Camaro that we were trying to put LEDs into... Got the flashers for it, but once we got everything in... Car went absolutely batshit with its lights. Right turn signals makes ALL the tail lights and the turn signals blink, where as the left only makes one light in the back blink.... Sometimes it even makes my gauge cluster blink. Gotta figure it out hahahaah. So confused
My 1966 Corvette was driving me crazy LEG's would not flash even with the new led flasher. After seeing your vid I checked the polarity and for some reason the brown wire that is supposed to be ground is the hot. made a set of jumpers and they work.
2nd issue about the flasher....just make it ...it's simple and very reliable. u can do mechanical one with just a relay and capacitor or u can be little more complicated and do some electronic work to make one......and if it's available and cheep just buy one!
Actually they DO work! I've used them many times and Never had a single issue! Obviously you sometimes have to use a special flasher, but that's no big deal.
Your turn signal switch should isolate the light that's blinking from the other side brake/flash, but if there's voltage on the other terminal of the led you are going to back feed the tail light circuit. But that would happen even with applying the brakes. And do you get voltage on the bright terminal if you apply power to the dim terminal? Sounds like an issue of useing cheap led's and a correctly made led should work correctly. And yes load resistors are a really mickey mouse ( sorry disney) fix. Better off keeping the added current and heat in the bulb where it was designed to be.
1990 GMC. It's not a matter of hyper flash, it's that you can't see the difference in brightness between the turn/brake with the lights on at night, works fine with the lights off during the daytime. I got a fix it ticket and could not fix it without putting conventional bulbs in all four turn signal sockets so you can see the blinkers at night and the brake light brightness difference from the park lights! Yeah I have the flasher that corrects hyper flashing but that is not the problem. CAN WE ADDRESS THIS ISSUE AND NOT THE HYPER FLASH
They do for a fact work, at least in my 1993 Pathfinder. But, what is your definition of "an older car"? I've used both of the types you have, and all of the bulbs on my 1985 Honda Shadow have the 2nd style of light you tested and they work fine too. Maybe it's your car, so get rid of it and buy the car that works with your $0.59 LED bulb. or buy some $25 Sylvanias that are designed properly. The LED flasher I found has a dial on the top to change the speed of the flash, it was $2.79.
I am referring to cars that have dual filament bulbs only most of the cars in the 90s and some 80s have separate bulbs for turn signals then brake lights Usually they will work fine but some older cars have the issues I mention in the video.
I used these in my 93 eclipse turbo And all I got to work was the brake lights were on ad nothing else No signal and no runing I put the original back and it's good again So maybe I need to rotate the brake lights and the tail ight as It h the positive wire for a test Maybe it would work China led lights don't work
I don't agree with this ...1) you're using a battery charger to rest them. For proper test they need to be in the vehicle in the light socket. 2) you're supposed to use the load resisters that you can buy at the parts store right next to those lights and install it it stops the backflow and it regulates the voltage 3) I have LEDs in every light socket on my 01 FLHT Harley-Davidson never have had hyper Flash no resistors where added absolutely no modifications send the clearance lights in the fender on the front to the clearance light on the fender in the rear 100% LEDs headlights Highway lights turn signals brake lights everything is LEDs so I would check wiring issues if you have a problem with your LEDs ...they are a great upgrade
it is not about resistance it is about feedback. on a car your turn signals will feed back to the other side of the car. Need to have diodes on a car. Motorcycle will work fine. dual filament multiple use turn and brake lights they will have problems working. unless you use diodes and sometimes even with that they will not work.
This is an issue with cheaper LEDs. They have continuity between the 2 contacts so the current feeds back through the brake light contact to the tail light contact. We're aware of this issue and build our LEDs with no continuity between the contacts so they are an effective and straight replacement. For turn signals you should use an electronic flasher unit and avoid the use of ballast resistors. Ballast adds back in all the load you saved by going to LED and can get extremely hot which is dangerous, especially on a classic.
You can use 1157 led's as running lights and turn signals and hazard lights and brake lights. What I did was I used a 5 pin relay and 2 "led flashers". The pins on a 5 pin relay are: pins 86 - 85 - 87a 87 and 30 30 will always have power - 87a is N.C "normally closed" so it gets power from pin 30. This pin 87a will be used to power the low beam of the led. Now when you apply power to pin 86 "by turning on the turn signal switch or hazard switch" you are creating an electromagnetic field in the relay which pulls the pole away from pin 87a "brakes connection to low beam of led "low beam goes out" and the pole is now connected to pin 87. I don't use pin 87 at all even though I could use it for another device if I wanted to. What I do is have 2 led flashers set up so that when you turn on the turn signal switch SPDT or the hazard light switch DPST what happens is that 87a is no longer connected and power is fed to one led flasher for the left turn signal which flashes on and off to the high beam of the led. If you turn on the hazard switch DPST power is fed to both led flashers which gives power to both led high beams. It sounds complicated, I would upload a schematic I made but can't do uploads on youtube. SUMMARY: The 5 pin relay has a pin 87a which is "normally closed" in other words the device you hook up to 87a would be normally on, that would be the" low beam" of your dual terminal led. Now when you turn on your turn signal, or your hazard lights, or your brake lights, then power is sent through pin 86 on the relay which will turn off power to 87a. So now your low beam is off, and you get full amps to the high beam of the led which are connected to led flashers and they blink on and off through the led flasher. When you stop the turn signal of hazard power goes back to pin 87a and the low beams are back on. Nice
Holy smoke!This is just something like a glove just protecting against voltage and a glove protecting against the cold.You buy a LED thats suitable for the job and not just a LED thinking all LEDS are the same!!
yep. installed led brake bulb on my 1998 suzuki baleno and "lost" the over-drive gear. took me months to notice that theres connectios between the two. if not the led burned. I would have known the reason for that
If you have a problem with the power from one side back-feeding the other side, you have a badly designed bulb. An alternative to replacing the bulbs is to put diodes in the feeds.
The one you have are canbus error for modern cars the standard led light will not do that one side is low load other side is high load to trick cambus not to trip a warning light on you dash none cambus led bulb turn, brake, dip, highbeams will work perfectly on an old car because the only draw between 2.5 and 2.8 volts thanks non campus error
It would be interesting to know what are the Asians thinking when they make these bulbs at backfeed what application were they created for. They don't work on Old American Fords and Chevys. And they certainly don't work on European cars they all have devoted sockets. I found all the bulb sockets are dry rotted, and when I redid the inner of the housings and removed the reflectors from the buckets, the front I'll use the 1157 with new sockets and the Switchback bulbs, and electronic flasher and on the rear it has four bulb sockets 1157 those are going to be changed 21156 the lower buckets with the smaller reflectors will be the running lights the upper with the larger reflector buckets will be the brake lights why it will reduce my brake lights from four to two because the rear reflector panel will have a LED strips behind the reflector so that panel across the trunk will also be running lights and brake lights one rectangular LED strip will be for the running lights and the other will be for the brake lights when I finish the project I'll post a video it should look quite unique. All LED low power draw and no heat. The cost for the whole setup will be almost $100 by the time you get all the sockets all the bulbs all the LED strips all the corner connectors and run a devoted wire all the way from the trunk lid to the brake pedal switch so when you hit the turn indicators your strips in the panel don't flash with the blinkers. So cruising down the road my 50-year-old car will compete with all these new modern lightweight electronic crumple Zone caskets. I call them. I'm glad you let us know about the feedback on these bulbs because I have a whole box of bulbs and it's always but try this one try that one when I'm outfitting a vintage car with better lighting. The interior straight forward and pretty easy but diesel 1157s on the old cars can be tricky. On a French car I actually used LED plates behind the lenses and did away with sockets and bulbs had to solder each plate those works very successfully very bright.
Wrong explanation. This is because led on the market all wired for 1157 instead of 3496 which its a reversed filament bulb for older cars. Just switch around high low filament wire on socket then will resolved this problem. It works.
I dont understand the hype over LED's Just use what is called for! As an Electrical Engineer and a Instructor of it at a local college I can see the problems being created! Just run the correct and proper bulbs! No LED's
Appreciate your efforts, but I gave up at the 2 min mark. "I'll show you, I'll show you, I'll show you....". I got tired of listening to you tell me what you were going to show, without actually showing anything.....
The Sylvania Zevo bulbs have built in diodes that prevent this problem. I ran into this issue with the regular Sylvania LED bulbs and they stated I needed the Zevo bulbs they made. I did a DVOM check and they show a diode built in and work perfect.
Interesting and good info. I actually just did a complete LED upgrade using 1157, 1156 and 94s on my 78 Caprice using similar style bulbs except they are the ones with the projector lenses for the 1157 & 1156s. Only thing I did was upgrade the flasher (adjustable two prong) and reversed the polarity to the flasher.
ua-cam.com/video/bGFkCiRp7_Y/v-deo.html
I documented it as well.
This has been my literal problem!!!!ive been troubleshooting for a while. I knew it was the led that was making the issue. Great video man!!!
you my friend have finished a 25h run of looking for electric trouble .... thank you with all my heart man i love you !!!
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica and the front turn signal light is gone... I'm tempted to buy this. so is there any easy way for me to find if it works or not the easy way? or only through trying it first?
I've got a motorhome with LED brake lights each light has about 30 leds in it, they weren't the original lights when the motorhome was built the company changed the lights to Led the original lights on the chassis were halogen I think, recently the light on my dash has been staying on so I checked the brake lights but they're working perfectly but what I did notice is approx. 3 leds in one light and 4 leds in the other light weren't working and I'm wondering if the reason the dash warning light is coming on has something to do with resistance because of a few blown Leds.
Hey Mike.. I'm looking to go LED 100% on my 62 panel (with the exception of the generator light). I saw that if you install a resistor, you can get the LED's to work and flash at the correct blink rate. Have you tried these resistors to see if they work, or have you heard about this?? It's gonna cost a couple of hundred by the time I replace all the bulbs.. but I think all the bulb's will work fine with the exception of the 1157's.. dual purpose/ filament (blinker and brake light).. any input would be appreciated..
I tend to agree with the video. I have a 2005 Acura TL and I put auxito LEDs on the rear blinkers and all is well. The rears are blinkers only. But the front is 1157 combo parking and blinker light. A plain swap obviously did not work. The parking light was dim and it hyperflashed. So, instead of using a resistor to emulate the oem bulb, I skipped the resistor and tied the 1157 led in parallel with the oem bulb. The total current should be slightly less than the oem bulb, as the led 1157 has 8kohm and 6kohm resistance compared to the analog bulb at 1ohm and 2.5ohm.. so basically the led would piggyback off the analog bulb and from the controller stand point, the circuit should look almost the same. Well, the parking side did work this time perfectly and was bright. But when I hit the turn signal, the led bulb would flash on and off but completely opposite timing as the analog bulb and opposite to the other bulbs. The 1157 led would turn off when the 1157 analog would turn on. Or at least, that is how it appeared. I am not for sure what was going on inside that led 1157 but it doesn't work like the 1157 analog.
The stock vulbs do the same thing incandescent shares a ground and if your brakes are on the resistance wont let the tail filliment come to brightness but will still have some voltage. Dont buy cheap leds and you'll have the diode to prevent backflow.
For some reason all my turn signals work except the right rear, both blink but the left is weaker. but when I apply the brakes it works fine.I had all LED lights except the brake light which is separated from the turn signals I recently changed the brake lights now I have the right rear that lights up both unless I hit the breaks
also can be used a 1-2 homs resistor in series with each led bulb.
I'm more confused now
it is a confusing subject if you are trying to run LED and it doesnt work then you might understand this better.
😂
What about the 1156 back up lights only? '92 Toyota
that little converter that they want to sell you gets real hot, it dissipates the heat works, but afraid for it to touch anything 12 volts is just too high. just a jury rig at best.
Hello Mike Thanks for the video. I just installed All LED's in my 2004 Rexhall AERBUS Motorhome. I hooked Up the back first. There was no problem. Then when I hooked up the side front running lights. The same kind you have in the video. The flashes and turn signals did not work. I changed to the LED flasher as you recommended and still nothing. My side markers went off also. When I turned the RV on both the lest and right was lite.What do you think?
I had no problems upgrading my running lights to 1157 LEDs. The kit came with the lights, a digital flasher and a polarity switcher. The whole project took about 30 minutes. I wanted brighter lights due to all the light in today's world combined with the small dim lights on my F100; I was concerned that someone would fail to see the old std bulbs and rearend me.
Very educational, thankyou.
Thank you sir.
Add a diode to the feeds. That will prevent the back flow out of the low side. Husky 39871 diode. That is the 2 in and one out option. Roadmaster 690 is a single option.. both are heavy duty. I use the husky for my turn/reverse ...my reverse light flashes with the corresponding side but in reverse the light only illuminates(not the yellow turn just the white)
yea that would work i would need 4 of them and smaller ones. the one you suggested is too large. would need to fit inside the tail light.
You dont want the diode inside the housing. You'd want to splice the diode into the wires before it goes into the bulb socket. The only "holes" in a housing is where the bulbs secure into it. So how would you get your wires and diode inside?
@@Mikefngarage search for.
Kuryakyn Diode Kit - 4709
It is made for motorcycles but it will serve the same purpose.
And its smaller.
They accomplish the dimming by putting a resitor in the "tail light" side. So if you bypassed the resistor it would feed full power back out the other side.. so when you supply power to th brake/turn it feeds back out thru the resistor and back into your tail light circuit. Are you referring to a setup in your bug from your video clips?
Im also guessing the turn signal indicator is just a single light? You could also be feeding back thru that single bulb if it is a one indicator light system. That would be why your getting voltage into the opposite side... feel free to correct me if im wrong
@@somethingsomething7899 I used some 100v max 10a diodes from the electronic supply but I still couldnt get 2 sets of leds for each side to work at all.
Does this go for Old Classic cars ??
I figured I could just replace mine from old to new with no hassle
Use a Novita LL552 flasher, it will work.
Got em in my 72 chevelle and they work fine.all I did was put in a heavy duty flasher like you get for added trailer lights
I have all LED bulbs in my 3 1978 Buick Regals and they work perfectly. Now one brand I did have to add solder to the tips because they weren't long enough to touch the tabs on the inside of my taillights pigtails. When I pressed down on the LED bulbs, they would light up and that's how I figured it out.
Is the same issue caused for the LED headlights on old cars?
For my 68 Firebird I was only able to use one set of LEDs. I put LEDs in my tail lights, I was only able to use those and not for my front side markers. I put a LED blinker relay in my fuse box and now I can have LEDs front and rear.
im so confused because on my 2005 4runner the right parking light it works fine but the left tail light it doesn't im so lost
Try turning it 180 degrees
They work well on mine. For the turn signals the LED flasher would not work so I put resistors in the circuit for the four turn signal bulbs.
Sylvania 1157R work fine in my 1964 VW single cab tail/ signal light
Couldn't u just sauder a wiring in between the 2 circuits since u have a dim and bright I steady of rebuilding 2 circuits in the bulb
Good video, there are many different LED wiring configurations. Do a collab with Project Farm to test various brands and report back. I'm making custom lights for my '67 Corvair, many tricks involved.
What about an 1157 for a motorcycle that has a running light and brake light in the same bulb? I bought one of these years ago and it never really worked very well.
Use the Sylvania bulbs..Models that use just a voltage drop for the tail and Brake use the 1156 the front ones you can use the 1157 but I recommend the Sylvania it's a better quality bulb little more money better result
on single bulbs they work perfectly but on dual tail lights on older cars it still feeds back. I used diodes and got one set of tail lights to work. I tried to make 2 rear sets on the same circuit all with diodes and still got feedback somehow.
LED brightness controlled with voltage. A resistor in the tail light wire and no resistor in the brake/signal wire does it.
Surely you are discussing is the brake / tail light combo where the tail light is the lower brightness and the brake is the higher.
Also, the turn indicator should show behind the orange lens surely not behind the red brake lens.
This is the configuration on my Japanese Toyota.
The turn indicator should be a separate bulb with only one central pin and is always bright.
I know this is an older video and I didn't read through all the comments to see if this was mentioned. Another issue with these bulbs you have is that they are the wrong style. At least for the old 60s cars. I bought these by mistake and it took me a bit to figure out the problem. On these they don't line up with the contacts in the socket correctly. The little nub things that lock the bulb in place and hold it are clocked differently so only one side contacts the connector points in the socket. I forget which now but thinking I only had brake lights and no tail lights but might have that backwards. You need the ones with the little round contacts not the bayonet or whatever you call that shape on the ones in your video. I just put the correct contacted bases in my '64 and I have tail and brake lights both like it should be and using the stock flasher at the moment. But the only LED lights I have is in the tail lights as I wanted brighter lights back there as my brake lights aren't that bright. Previously I used 2357 bulbs i believe they were. They are brighter but also heat up more so wouldn't be good in say a '60s impala with the small tail lights. Hope that at least helps someone out a little.
I think you may have bought bulbs with the wrong location pin orientation with regard to your 1st problem. It's easy to get wrong as there are several location pin positions available and only very careful analysis of LED bulbs website information will match with your car's pin orientation specification. Some variants are offset, others 180° opposed.
And idea how make led works with focus mk2?
I used 1156 signal led in my ford focus mk2.5.. it's work...no problem at all..
I put all LED lights in my truck , I already changed flasher to slow down the blinking my problem is nothing blinks when the headlights are on
Thx. I tried to replace my incandescent 1157 Bay15d bulbs with LEDs for the brake/parking lights (they use the same one bulb).
After replacing, the lights on when I brake but no light when used for parking lights. Thanks for this video. Was very confused as I thought it was a simple replacement.
So did you solve it ?
Wouldn't a diode fix this issue? (a one-way valve)
Yes, a diode could potentially fix this issue.
However, you'd have to remember to bypass the diode if you ever went back to incandescent, as the diode would pass too much current, overheat, and fail.
LEDs are diodes 🤔
@@Pooooooops light emitting even!
I have a 1986 f150 with a dual filament 1157 taillight/blinker and I have resistors hooked up and it works. I wanted to buy a different pair of 1157s just like the ones you have in this video wondering if they won't work
I'm gonna try a set in my 88 E350 motorhome
Thanks i was confused when installing led turn signals. My front has a 1157 type bulb i did also install led flasher relay but it didnt work.
Glad it helped sometimes you can get away with using diodes and isolate them but it is very hard to do. FYI.
God dude I gotta figure this shit out, this helped alot tho. I have a 1987 Camaro that we were trying to put LEDs into... Got the flashers for it, but once we got everything in... Car went absolutely batshit with its lights. Right turn signals makes ALL the tail lights and the turn signals blink, where as the left only makes one light in the back blink.... Sometimes it even makes my gauge cluster blink. Gotta figure it out hahahaah. So confused
yea when you have brakes and turns on the same circuit the LED wont work. Need to be separate circuits.
I ran red 1157's in an 89 ford ranger, had no issues
not old enough I am talking about dual filament turn and brake lights on the same circuit.
My 1966 Corvette was driving me crazy LEG's would not flash even with the new led flasher. After seeing your vid I checked the polarity and for some reason the brown wire that is supposed to be ground is the hot. made a set of jumpers and they work.
05 caddilac deville will have this issue?
you may but you wont know till you try it. mostly with dual filament bulbs.
Works fine on my 2002 Avalon
G30 chevy van and LED 1156 AND 1157 work just fine. I was told flasher would need changed . Wrong.
Went back to original flasher and works just fine.
2nd issue about the flasher....just make it ...it's simple and very reliable.
u can do mechanical one with just a relay and capacitor or u can be little more complicated and do some electronic work to make one......and if it's available and cheep just buy one!
Actually they DO work! I've used them many times and Never had a single issue! Obviously you sometimes have to use a special flasher, but that's no big deal.
on what car ?
@@jojos4792 worked on my 66 caddy
Your turn signal switch should isolate the light that's blinking from the other side brake/flash, but if there's voltage on the other terminal of the led you are going to back feed the tail light circuit. But that would happen even with applying the brakes. And do you get voltage on the bright terminal if you apply power to the dim terminal? Sounds like an issue of useing cheap led's and a correctly made led should work correctly. And yes load resistors are a really mickey mouse ( sorry disney) fix. Better off keeping the added current and heat in the bulb where it was designed to be.
Thanks.
you can simply put a diod on each line ((low light and full light ++ wires))
1990 GMC. It's not a matter of hyper flash, it's that you can't see the difference in brightness between the turn/brake with the lights on at night, works fine with the lights off during the daytime. I got a fix it ticket and could not fix it without putting conventional bulbs in all four turn signal sockets so you can see the blinkers at night and the brake light brightness difference from the park lights! Yeah I have the flasher that corrects hyper flashing but that is not the problem. CAN WE ADDRESS THIS ISSUE AND NOT THE HYPER FLASH
They do for a fact work, at least in my 1993 Pathfinder. But, what is your definition of "an older car"? I've used both of the types you have, and all of the bulbs on my 1985 Honda Shadow have the 2nd style of light you tested and they work fine too.
Maybe it's your car, so get rid of it and buy the car that works with your $0.59 LED bulb. or buy some $25 Sylvanias that are designed properly.
The LED flasher I found has a dial on the top to change the speed of the flash, it was $2.79.
I am referring to cars that have dual filament bulbs only most of the cars in the 90s and some 80s have separate bulbs for turn signals then brake lights Usually they will work fine but some older cars have the issues I mention in the video.
I’ve converted 3 classics to full leds 🤷🏽♂️
I added LEDs on my 1998 Toyota Sienna without issue. I wonder now about my 1993 Mazda B2200..
I used these in my 93 eclipse turbo
And all I got to work was the brake lights were on ad nothing else
No signal and no runing
I put the original back and it's good again
So maybe I need to rotate the brake lights and the tail ight as It h the positive wire for a test
Maybe it would work
China led lights don't work
i upgraded all my og bulbs on my 2000 avalon, the strobe 7443 and the blinker 1157 did not work. at all
I don't agree with this ...1) you're using a battery charger to rest them. For proper test they need to be in the vehicle in the light socket.
2) you're supposed to use the load resisters that you can buy at the parts store right next to those lights and install it it stops the backflow and it regulates the voltage
3) I have LEDs in every light socket on my 01 FLHT Harley-Davidson never have had hyper Flash no resistors where added absolutely no modifications send the clearance lights in the fender on the front to the clearance light on the fender in the rear 100% LEDs headlights Highway lights turn signals brake lights everything is LEDs so I would check wiring issues if you have a problem with your LEDs ...they are a great upgrade
These should already contain current limiting resistors.
it is not about resistance it is about feedback. on a car your turn signals will feed back to the other side of the car. Need to have diodes on a car. Motorcycle will work fine. dual filament multiple use turn and brake lights they will have problems working. unless you use diodes and sometimes even with that they will not work.
+Mal... LED light usually are made with current limiting resistors. Otherwise, they tend to overheat and fail.
This is an issue with cheaper LEDs. They have continuity between the 2 contacts so the current feeds back through the brake light contact to the tail light contact. We're aware of this issue and build our LEDs with no continuity between the contacts so they are an effective and straight replacement. For turn signals you should use an electronic flasher unit and avoid the use of ballast resistors. Ballast adds back in all the load you saved by going to LED and can get extremely hot which is dangerous, especially on a classic.
Exactly, cheap sh*t
@classiccarleds thanks - would you confirm that your GLB380 1157 bulb has the two circuits isolated? Also, do you ship to the US? Thanks
@@LeafRhetoric Our negative ground are all separate circuits, some positive ground too. We ship daily to the USA
Exactly 👍
Darn i was hoping too use em for my 84 f150
You can use 1157 led's as running lights and turn signals and hazard lights and brake lights. What I did was I used a 5 pin relay and 2 "led flashers". The pins on a 5 pin relay are: pins 86 - 85 - 87a 87 and 30
30 will always have power - 87a is N.C "normally closed" so it gets power from pin 30. This pin 87a will be used to power the low beam of the led.
Now when you apply power to pin 86 "by turning on the turn signal switch or hazard switch" you are creating an electromagnetic field in the relay which pulls the pole away from pin 87a "brakes connection to low beam of led "low beam goes out" and the pole is now connected to pin 87. I don't use pin 87 at all even though I could use it for another device if I wanted to.
What I do is have 2 led flashers set up so that when you turn on the turn signal switch SPDT or the hazard light switch DPST what happens is that 87a is no longer connected and power is fed to one led flasher for the left turn signal which flashes on and off to the high beam of the led. If you turn on the hazard switch DPST power is fed to both led flashers which gives power to both led high beams. It sounds complicated, I would upload a schematic I made but can't do uploads on youtube.
SUMMARY:
The 5 pin relay has a pin 87a which is "normally closed" in other words the device you hook up to 87a would be normally on, that would be the" low beam" of your dual terminal led. Now when you turn on your turn signal, or your hazard lights, or your brake lights, then power is sent through pin 86 on the relay which will turn off power to 87a. So now your low beam is off, and you get full amps to the high beam of the led which are connected to led flashers and they blink on and off through the led flasher. When you stop the turn signal of hazard power goes back to pin 87a and the low beams are back on. Nice
i know Im kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to stream new tv shows online ?
@Dakari Maxton lately I have been using FlixZone. You can find it by googling :)
@Moses Watson yea, I've been using flixzone for years myself :)
@Moses Watson thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I really appreciate it!!
@Dakari Maxton no problem :)
Holy smoke!This is just something like a glove just protecting against voltage and a glove protecting against the cold.You buy a LED thats suitable for the job and not just a LED thinking all LEDS are the same!!
why would you also have to change bulbs, incandescent bulbs are getting cheaper so I couldn't dream of changing
yep. installed led brake bulb on my 1998 suzuki baleno and "lost" the over-drive gear. took me months to notice that theres connectios between the two. if not the led burned. I would have known the reason for that
Have same 1157 led bulb on a 1968 Harley works great. See no problum
its when you have more than one.
If you have a problem with the power from one side back-feeding the other side, you have a badly designed bulb. An alternative to replacing the bulbs is to put diodes in the feeds.
I have jeep halo led headlights fog lites , led off road fog lites two sets up front one in the rear of my 1985 bullnose f250
Instead of screwing around wasting time and money to get an LED to work, just get A 30w 1157 incandescent bulb. They are super bright.
More friggin pain than they're worth.
yea on older cars true. the 1157 is not worth using. but 1156 is ok. just use what you can.
The one you have are canbus error for modern cars the standard led light will not do that one side is low load other side is high load to trick cambus not to trip a warning light on you dash none cambus led bulb turn, brake, dip, highbeams will work perfectly on an old car because the only draw between 2.5 and 2.8 volts thanks non campus error
So... WHO makes an LED 1157 bulb that actually works?
Load resister
It would be interesting to know what are the Asians thinking when they make these bulbs at backfeed what application were they created for. They don't work on Old American Fords and Chevys. And they certainly don't work on European cars they all have devoted sockets. I found all the bulb sockets are dry rotted, and when I redid the inner of the housings and removed the reflectors from the buckets, the front I'll use the 1157 with new sockets and the Switchback bulbs, and electronic flasher and on the rear it has four bulb sockets 1157 those are going to be changed 21156 the lower buckets with the smaller reflectors will be the running lights the upper with the larger reflector buckets will be the brake lights why it will reduce my brake lights from four to two because the rear reflector panel will have a LED strips behind the reflector so that panel across the trunk will also be running lights and brake lights one rectangular LED strip will be for the running lights and the other will be for the brake lights when I finish the project I'll post a video it should look quite unique. All LED low power draw and no heat. The cost for the whole setup will be almost $100 by the time you get all the sockets all the bulbs all the LED strips all the corner connectors and run a devoted wire all the way from the trunk lid to the brake pedal switch so when you hit the turn indicators your strips in the panel don't flash with the blinkers. So cruising down the road my 50-year-old car will compete with all these new modern lightweight electronic crumple Zone caskets. I call them. I'm glad you let us know about the feedback on these bulbs because I have a whole box of bulbs and it's always but try this one try that one when I'm outfitting a vintage car with better lighting. The interior straight forward and pretty easy but diesel 1157s on the old cars can be tricky. On a French car I actually used LED plates behind the lenses and did away with sockets and bulbs had to solder each plate those works very successfully very bright.
just use diode so it does not back feed and problem solved
tried that and it still has some issues.
just use a incandescent bulb ffs. relays and all this other sht is bs. leds also fk up the computer on newer car and sent it to limp mode
Wrong explanation. This is because led on the market all wired for 1157 instead of 3496 which its a reversed filament bulb for older cars. Just switch around high low filament wire on socket then will resolved this problem. It works.
How do you do that? Sorry, I am total noob with electrics
Bro either you got cheap bulbs or you have no idea what you are talking about my 1157s work perfectly fine lmao (1995 k1500)
probably not brake and turn. that is when you have issues.
@@Mikefngarage I have no issues
2018 Video. Not so relevant in 2021
It seems to be relevant to me in 2022.
I dont understand the hype over LED's Just use what is called for! As an Electrical Engineer and a Instructor of it at a local college I can see the problems being created! Just run the correct and proper bulbs! No LED's
Just get to the point
There is nothing wrong with the incandescent bulbs. I use them in my older vehicles and house and everything is fine.
Absolutely...its just led only uses 6 volts instead of 12 and runs cool to the touch...but ya works fine no worries
Appreciate your efforts, but I gave up at the 2 min mark. "I'll show you, I'll show you, I'll show you....". I got tired of listening to you tell me what you were going to show, without actually showing anything.....
Well I use led on my 64 Chevy C10
Those bulbs are Chinese junk. You must use sylvania zevo leds.