The windscreen wipers flinging tools everywhere was quite possibly the most Hubnut thing that I have ever seen! :D About the oil pressure switch, a quick Google pulled up an ECU pinout for the L250 and it doesn't look like the oil pressure switch goes through the ECU, so maybe it's a direct connection to the instrument cluster? If you have the manual, you can check the instrument cluster pinout to see if there is a pin for the oil pressure switch. This pin, if it exsists, should have 12V on it when the ignition is on (you will need a long thin multimeter probe to get onto the back of the pin while the connector is attached to the cluster). If you have no 12V on this pin, a secondhand cluster off eBay is probably a good bet (worry about the mileage and the 'Hello Happy' later). If the instrument cluster is CAN only, there will be a module somewhere (again the manual is your friend) that takes in the oil pressure sensor signal and spits it out over CAN to the cluster. Run the same check here, and if it's no good, head to eBay. :D
I service audio equipment for a living, and one phenomenon I've noticed is that when people have a somewhat limited knowledge about what they're working on, they tend to blame a fault on whatever part of that system they have a direct interface with. So when an amplifier doesn't turn on, it's a "bad switch". I'm seeing the same thing here. If the oil light doesn't come on, it must be a bad bulb, and that thought process gets extended to the point of actually disassembling the cluster. After an engine swap, logic suggests that the fault is due to something related to that process, not that a bulb just happened to blow at that exact moment.
You have just devised another way to measure the performance of a car's wipers. The weight of a selection of tools it can fling onto the floor. You could call it the "tragedy of trajectory".
Disconnect the oil pressure switch and bridge across the 2 terminals on the plug with a pice of wire , that should then put the light on the dash with the ignition on , to be honest I would turn it over and not worry to much about the light
It was Worth Watching just for The Window Wiper moment.😆😆😅 Don't you love it when 'Things are Determined to Fight you all the Way..!' The Joy of things 2nd Hand.! Nothing For it But a Bullet to the Brain...! Good luck Guys..! Cheers kim in Oz. 😎
Can't offer anything that hasn't already been said regarding the oil pressure light . But, for the vacumm connection for the brake servo you have 3 basic options. 1. See if screwfix etc have a screw in hose nipple of the right size and thread that into the hole in the manifold with threadlock/glue to fix in place. 2. Glue a piece of plastic over the original hole and tap the vacumm line off of another vacumm line. 3. Change the manifold, might be able to rock the engine over to the front to increase access. Good luck!
Remove all the spark plugs, then spin the engine up on the starter motor. At first it will spin freely as there is no oil pressure loading the oil pump - after 10 to 15 seconds you should hear the starter motor rotation speed drop as oil pump pressure loads up starter drive. Oil should begin to appear at the overhead valve gear - a good indication all is well to start and run engine. Fix the techo stuff later when not under time pressure.
Maybe someone has said this, but assuming it is simple pressure switch, you could just organize a fresh fused power supply and a 12V bulb and ignore the existing gubbings.
Have you got the workshop manual? Page 10-31 shows how to test the oil pressure switch. Basically as already said in comments, Earth the wire towards the dash and the light should come on.
Got to agree with Luke Crowley - that wiper-tool-fling was a really hub nut thing to witness. Fantastic. Great effort getting this far, so far. I'm fairly sure that the lack of oil pressure warning is a factor of the 'modern car' where the ECU controls everything, unlike a 2CV/GSA where it's just 12v to the bulb, and the switch in series, then ground. You could rig up a test light direct from battery to bulb to the oil pressure switch, as per a 2CV, which would allow you to see low pressure warning until a few cranks have occurred, thus giving you the confidence to go for it with the coils connected.
Go through everything and make sure all the wires and earth's are connected including alternator fitted and plugged in, check under bonnet fuses etc, once oil light is illuminated turn over engine without coils or injectors connected to build oil pressure first !
Quickest way to see oil pressure without an oil warning light is to loosen off the oil filter slightly and crank it over with the plugs out, Hopefully after 15 or 20 secs cranking oil will start to leak out from the oil filter!
I would use a multi meter to test the oil pressure switch first to see if it has continuity. You can jerry up your own test light & see if the switch activates said light by applying some power through the switch. Also sometimes it could be that the wiring to the pressure switch itself is at fault. For instance if the connected is kinked or has a broken pin. Otherwise I’m clutching at straws
Rule 1 of electronic fault finding: Thou shalt check voltages. In this case, check all your fuses are intact. I suspect the instrument cluster may have a bad earth or a lack of power - the message display and backlight may well be on their own power feed to the instruments / warning lights. Then, see if it will crank. I suspect you may get an immobiliser desynched problem, depending on what sort of immobiliser it has, so don't be surprised. (Glances towards UPnDOWN) Either way, if you have an ECU reader for these, see if you can get it to talk, to prove the ECU is alive. Then clear all the errors and restart. This should tell you what sensors aren't connected.
You can check led bulbs with a multimeter, set to resistence (ohms) bulb should light when probs connected to bulb with current flowing in correct direction.
You said it yourself "make up your own oil pressure warning lamp". Simple circuit with a battery and a lamp in series, connect one wire to the switch terminal, doesn't matter + or - if there are two terminals on the sensor, if there's only one terminal, connect the + to it and the - to the body of the sensor. The engine might not start if it doesn't see a signal from the switch but at least you'll know if you have a working switch and oil pressure on the engine. Practising non standard hand signal in a stationary vehicle, extra points for that.
might need the full wiring connected to complete the circuit i did a engine swap on a darrwoo yrs ago some of the the plugs were identical it wouldnt start i found the temp sender wires were plugged in where the distributor wires were swapped the plug and it started another way to test the light is ground the sender wire and see if the light comes on in the dash
Others have already said what I would have said so there's no point in being repetitive: but I would check that no contacts have been pushed back in the terminal housings (especially on multiway connectors) during reassembly or any cables crushed. The most constructive comment I've seen is that of simply "make your own light" using a small test lamp and using a test meter to determine how to do this on the spare oil pressure switch you have.
I first discovered HubNut when you ran the Reliant engine on the garage floor Ian, made me LOL - This engine job is professional by comparison! (Hint: Don't become too professional...). As others have said you could short the switch wire(s) and see if the dashboard lamp works, or ever did work. TBH I'd crank it over and see what happens.
Yeah as someone has said one side of the circuit, normally the dashboard is 12v + and the light is turned on by grounding the other side. Probe with a multimeter to see which wire on the pressure switch has positive voltage (if any). The other leg is most likely going to go to ground. Make sure it does that.
You’ll know whether oil pressure has risen within a few seconds of starting the engine. So go for it. Stop it quick if it keeps rattling after four or five seconds maximum after firing. To ensure a short time for oil pressure to raise, crank it a few times with the spark plug leads off before actually allowing it to start.
I agree that this is probobably fine for will-it-run purposes, but if you want to make a better assessment of engine health, an actual gauge is probably the way to go, and the light is at least a minimum requirement for real operation.
Hi Ian I would give it a quick crank to see if light illuminates as it could be that if battery has been disconnected for so long ecu has gone to sleep lol give it a really quick crank to see if it wakes back up….other than that use a screw in pressure gauge to check it….hope you get it sorted soon
If there’s a 2 pin plug on the oil pressure wire, connect the two together and it will put on the oil light. If you only have 1 pin, put it to earth and it should put the light on. If neither do this, I would say it’s a cluster fault
It may be a long shot, Try taking a connection from body/chassis direct to the block, once had a similar woe with a toyota after a engine swap, it would start, we had'nt connected the earth stap from th chassis to block.
You said it yourself in the video, just put in an old school pressure sensor with bulb wired to the battery positive, good enough to try a crank/start test.
Definitely worth a look to see if there is any possibility the wrong plug is connected to the pressure switch. Compare with the back of the old engine to see if there are any similar looking connectors in the vicinity.
When all else fails as a last resort it's common workshop practice read the manual (wiring diagram). Keeping an oil filter in the bedroom - that's Hubnut. I would get that filter changed and connect more engine bits up so it's happier. Since the car is jacked up at the front the dipstick oil level reading will be wrong. Have you had the plugs out to check they are not oiled up and even the combustion chambers full of oil?
I would not worry about oil pressure - it will have some or it won't. In any case if the new motor has no oil pressure it will manifest itself in some obvious way and it will be off on the scrap lorry unless there is an engine rebuild in prospect.
Everything I would have suggested has already been mentioned in the comments. Another way to check oil circulation is to remove the oil filler cap and look for oil been thrown around in abundance, if the oil is reaching the head it's defo going to be in the bottom end. Personally I would have cranked it to test anyway.
So, if you grab a multimeter and test that the oil pressure switch is grounded when not running, you know it's in the wiring, maybe it got yanked when removing the old engine? or the engine connector is corroded or otherwise damaged or fouled. If it tests open circuit you've got a duff sender, assuming it's normally closed. all you would need to do to check it is run a bit of wire from the 12v terminal on the battery, to some small 12v bulb, and then to the terminal on the switch, if it lights up that's your temporary oil pressure light. The chance of doing catastrophic damage from cranking it over without oil pressure is small, there should still be enough of an oil film to protect the moving parts at that kind of speed and duration.
Yeah as a quick test just earth the oil pressure wire to ground to check the bulb, unless there is more than one wire so a wiring diag would be needed. The other issue might be that the wire has to go through the ECU maybe.
The light on the dash doesn't matter, the switch does! Use a multimeter to check continuity, which should be there when there is no pressure. You have the switch you removed to practise on. If you do have continuity, either leave the multimeter connected, or wire up a 12v globe to the switch (the one on the engine!). You just made yourself an oil light.
This is one of these things where you need to trace the circuit point by point along the path from the pressure switch all the way to the light in the dash. First step. Have you voltage to the pressure switch? That will be your starting point for tracing the fault. Re the coolant. Only start the engine with coolant in it. The water pump seal needs coolant to lubricate it. Running the engine without coolant will probably damage the pump seal.
Hi Ian & Mrs Hubnut i think you both have done well with the engine to make it go it's a shame it did not start all the best to you both and your family 😎👍👍🔧🔧🏴🏴🏴
Enjoyed your video as I used to have a light purple Daihatsu Charade, 03 reg. Very reliable until I swapped it for a C1 mk1 in 2012. One way forward for the oil pressure uncertainty would be to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge, these have the benefit of working with no electrics when the engine is still being turned over on start. They also display the actual pressure whereas the warning light transponder is set really low (about 10psi?). The main downside is that these gauges use an oil pipe under pressure in the cabin so it can be messy if the pipe should spring a leak.
Just crank it it may build oil pressure, it doesn't really matter for 15 seconds you could run it with no fluids at all for a short burst, just turn it off. For the vacuum hose if you have the bit that snapped off I would be tempted to use JB Weld, find a drill bit with the right internal diameter to hold the parts in place, it must have 48hrs or more to properly set, then turn rather than pulling the drill bit to release. Or knock it further down before pulling up. JB Weld can be drilled or tapped when set but it has to be 100% static when setting and properly set. It has got me out of many difficult situations.
Hello, take the ignition cable out from the coil so it have no sparks and than start the motor till the oil control never lightning again, it mean oil pressure is enough and than you can reconnect the Sparkcable with the coil, everything's fine.
Just wire your own oil pressure light in for now. Run a wire from the switch, through a bulb and presumably to the positive battery terminal. Once everything else works, you can think about a proper fix, such as soldering a new LED in the binnacle.
You can run test light from positive of the battery to the switch. If the pressure is good at cranking the light should come on. That is only temporary test solution.
You have a dozen or more code readers put one to work - the oil switch is a basic on or off switch, ground the wire the light should come on A simple test would be set the multimeter to continuity black to a ground, red to the switch (assuming it’s a single pin switch) it will beep until it builds oil pressure
I would carry on putting it back together as it could be that the oil pressure switch shares wiring with something else that is not there yet. As you said, running for a short time won't tell you much and you can't get it up to operating temperature without a cooling system. You could perhaps test the spare oil pressure switch somehow and find out what it does (normally open, normally closed circuit or whatever) then connect a multimeter or test lamp to the one on the car. You could then use that to indicate when you have oil pressure for the first engine run.
Ahh that's a bugger, not to be able to start the engine, but nevertheless the video was a joy to watch, credits to you both. Like most others have mentioned, test the light and maybe start the engine anyway, if it's not rattling, you definitely have oil pressure of some sort. Concerning the broken off servo pipe, you could use a hollow screw, make it to desired length and apply some Loctite on the thread to secure it in place. To create a clean thread in the plasticby the way, heat up the screw with a lighter. Cheers from somewhere in the north east in the Netherlands
Don't run the engine without coolant, it will kill the water pump in a matter of a few hundred revolutions and might also damage the thermostat, the oil pressure switch is a slight problem, but I wouldn't be too worried, they often fail and it doesn't mean it has no oil pressure and it would be extremely unlikely that the pump has failed, the most common cause of the oil light coming on is no oil in the sump. The tape over the engine check light is weird and doesn't bode well, the ECU is probably full of fault codes and will need checking and clearing, it could even be in a limp home mode (you might have put some codes in it just by turning the ignition on with wires disconnected). This is very hubnut indeed.
I would put a manual pressure gauge on it, then disable the fuel pump by pulling the fuse to prevent starting then crank the engine until you see the pressure rise on the gauge you should see between 15-20 psi when cranking but any pressure is good as long as it's above about 7-8psi most oil pressure switches go off at only 5psi anyway. Or you could just attempt to start the engine if it is reasonably quite after 5 seconds then you probably have oil pressure, it's not like it's a new engine that has never been run before, hope that is of some help.
Well that's a pain. Everything I can think of has been mentioned below. Had it been me, I would have gone for the start anyway - if the engine is bad it is bad, but it is unlikely to go from good to bad on a quick start. I would have been more annoyed by the broken servo pipe.
I would try connecting everything up and doing a Full System Scan. Then Clear all faults and it will probably come back. U can get a gauge and screw it into the oil pressure switch hole to check the oil pressure. The Check engine light has probably been taped up by a previous owner or a motor trader to put the vehicle through an auction. The fault making it light up was probably something simple. But the light being covered up was a cheaper option to get money out of the car.
I suggest you see if you can get the hold of an oil pressure gauge, from a friend or buy one from a motor factors. screw the fitting in where the oil switch goes and crank the engine over. That will let you see actual oil pressure then you'll know if you're simply dealing with an electrical issue. Or alternatively there's the bush mechanic method of *NEARLY* unscrewing the switch and cranking it and see if any oil has made its way past the threads.
put a test light on the wire going to the pressure switch... you should have 12V (light on the test light)... if u dont then u have a wiring or power feed issue (fuse or light blown in dash)..
If the oil sensor is a single wire short it to ground and if the wiring and led are ok it should light up if it's a two wire unit short them together and the light should come on. If not you have a broken wire or bad connection or duff led, you can check the led wit a digital meter set to continuity or diode one way round with the probes and the led will light and the other way round it wont.
I have just had a look on the web and there might be a possibility The wiring may be faulty so it may be a good idea to test the wiring to make sure that there is sufficient electricity getting through into the sensor
just a thought , position 1 on most ignition switches just gives power to the radio, elecy windows , wipers and shows the battery light, its position 2 that lights up the dashboard and ancillary lights , then position 3 is set against a spring to start the engine, you were telling Mrs Hubnut to go to the first position.....I wonder ???
A massive effort. Well done! Take five and have another go when you're ready. Can you check the LED comes on in the instrument panel and work back from there and are all your connections at the various plugs clean and connected properly?
urgh! the oil pressure light comes on when there is LOW or no oil pressure thats why its usually off when an engine runs....if its not working when you just turn the key to ignition on its not indicating an engine fault ...as the engine is not yet ON.. or started as I prefer to say 😀
In any case if the light were to come on when it's running the engine was already toast anyways. Though I doubt it if you got it from a reputable source. In any case, you could plug in a proper gauge instead.
You can test the oil light circuit by simply grounding the sensor pin. That will confirm the lamp circuit is functional. That system gets ignition circuit voltage which needs good engine ground (earth strap) and the ignition power relay energised. That relay may depend on the alternator circuit being connected, along with other peripherals.
You need to install and wire the alternator the oil light will only come on after it has tried to crank. This is normal on something that age after it has to build up oil pressure it will then work as normal. You must install the radiator and fill it with water before starting as to build up oil pressure it will need to run for about 30 seconds, the engine bone dry so it will heat up really quick. I am a little confused as without repairing the issue on the manifold all this is a bit pointless if you have to take the engine out again.
What a conundrum. Honestly, I don’t think I would have even thought about looking to see is the oil light came on in the ignition on check sequence. I would have gone right for a try at startup. It will have oil pressure and if it doesn’t then it happened previously and it was already ruined before you got it
Great respect for perservering, that is a big task you both have set yourselves. I ride a bicycle so not too much use there, but a thought might help (hope so!) Either contact the UK Daihatsu owners club, possibly there is a FB enthusiasts club or alternatively, go talk to the guys who helped you out with Giselle and Foxanne, to see if they have personal and/or business connections to help you progress towards completion of this project. Consider setting a 'due date' to work towards. Thanks, for your engine swap/rebuild stamina 👍👍
Hi Ian, Did the oil pressure light work as intended before the engine swap? If so try the switch from that engine on the replacement engine. Failing that you can: If it's a single wire switch then you just short to ground, If it's a twin wire switch connector you just bridge the two wires together to test the light. Hope this helps Calum Hope this helps
You could just take a lead from the live to a test bulb and the negative wire to the pressure switch (as long as it's a simple single terminal switch). Test bulb should light until pressure builds up.
If you can get a wiring diagram, that should answer a lot of your questions. I don't know how available those are to you- i know generally you can buy 30 days of access to factory service info for most brands online, but I have no familiarity with daihatsu (we didn't get those in the states). If you just want to get it started safely to test the new engine, and defer the more complicated diagnosis for later, a mechanical oil pressure gauge is probably the easiest option, assuming you can get your hands on one with a suitable fitting for that block.
If you have no funnel place the tip of a long screwdriver in the filler ‘hole’ and slowly pour the oil on the screwdriver- it will cling to it due to surface tension and run down it in to the engine without h spilling .. You can use the dip- stick instead of a screwdriver
The windscreen wipers flinging tools everywhere was quite possibly the most Hubnut thing that I have ever seen! :D
About the oil pressure switch, a quick Google pulled up an ECU pinout for the L250 and it doesn't look like the oil pressure switch goes through the ECU, so maybe it's a direct connection to the instrument cluster? If you have the manual, you can check the instrument cluster pinout to see if there is a pin for the oil pressure switch. This pin, if it exsists, should have 12V on it when the ignition is on (you will need a long thin multimeter probe to get onto the back of the pin while the connector is attached to the cluster). If you have no 12V on this pin, a secondhand cluster off eBay is probably a good bet (worry about the mileage and the 'Hello Happy' later). If the instrument cluster is CAN only, there will be a module somewhere (again the manual is your friend) that takes in the oil pressure sensor signal and spits it out over CAN to the cluster. Run the same check here, and if it's no good, head to eBay. :D
I service audio equipment for a living, and one phenomenon I've noticed is that when people have a somewhat limited knowledge about what they're working on, they tend to blame a fault on whatever part of that system they have a direct interface with. So when an amplifier doesn't turn on, it's a "bad switch". I'm seeing the same thing here. If the oil light doesn't come on, it must be a bad bulb, and that thought process gets extended to the point of actually disassembling the cluster. After an engine swap, logic suggests that the fault is due to something related to that process, not that a bulb just happened to blow at that exact moment.
You have just devised another way to measure the performance of a car's wipers. The weight of a selection of tools it can fling onto the floor. You could call it the "tragedy of trajectory".
Or the "trajectory of tragedy"?
Disconnect the oil pressure switch and bridge across the 2 terminals on the plug with a pice of wire , that should then put the light on the dash with the ignition on , to be honest I would turn it over and not worry to much about the light
Yeah I wanted to know how many wires the switch has, more than likely 2, but it could be more depending on how the circuit is wired.
@@menditman2004 more than likely a single terminal and grounded through the block
@@Mrflash222006 If so that should be easy to test with a test light, at least doing that he will know he has oil pressure or not.
Loosen off the oil filter before cranking and you will soon establish if the oil is pressuring!
This is pure, undiluted Hubnut! I love the automated tool clearing function. 😁👍
What an awesome wiper moment... That's real entertainment! Thanks for this very special «hello happy» moment. 😁
It was Worth Watching just for The Window Wiper moment.😆😆😅
Don't you love it when 'Things are Determined to Fight you all the Way..!'
The Joy of things 2nd Hand.!
Nothing For it But a Bullet to the Brain...!
Good luck Guys..!
Cheers kim in Oz. 😎
Can't offer anything that hasn't already been said regarding the oil pressure light . But, for the vacumm connection for the brake servo you have 3 basic options.
1. See if screwfix etc have a screw in hose nipple of the right size and thread that into the hole in the manifold with threadlock/glue to fix in place.
2. Glue a piece of plastic over the original hole and tap the vacumm line off of another vacumm line.
3. Change the manifold, might be able to rock the engine over to the front to increase access.
Good luck!
Remove all the spark plugs, then spin the engine up on the starter motor. At first it will spin freely as there is no oil pressure loading the oil pump - after 10 to 15 seconds you should hear the starter motor rotation speed drop as oil pump pressure loads up starter drive.
Oil should begin to appear at the overhead valve gear - a good indication all is well to start and run engine.
Fix the techo stuff later when not under time pressure.
Thanks very hubnut, modern cars beyond me 🤓🤔
Oh dear Mr HubNut trouble lies ahead, reading the comments though you have some great advice.
Maybe someone has said this, but assuming it is simple pressure switch, you could just organize a fresh fused power supply and a 12V bulb and ignore the existing gubbings.
I love seeing you and Mrs Hubnut working on your cars, what a team.
Muss Hubnut, You are fabulous!! With your encouragement Hubnut will move mountains
mointains
the wiper mishap was sensational, genuinely laughed out loud at that!
Have you got the workshop manual? Page 10-31 shows how to test the oil pressure switch. Basically as already said in comments, Earth the wire towards the dash and the light should come on.
You manage to worry about things that I wouldn't even consider on a start-up.
Got to agree with Luke Crowley - that wiper-tool-fling was a really hub nut thing to witness. Fantastic. Great effort getting this far, so far. I'm fairly sure that the lack of oil pressure warning is a factor of the 'modern car' where the ECU controls everything, unlike a 2CV/GSA where it's just 12v to the bulb, and the switch in series, then ground.
You could rig up a test light direct from battery to bulb to the oil pressure switch, as per a 2CV, which would allow you to see low pressure warning until a few cranks have occurred, thus giving you the confidence to go for it with the coils connected.
Oh dear, nothing's ever easy. It seems lots of people have given some good ideas. Good luck, looking forward to some Good news soon.
Go through everything and make sure all the wires and earth's are connected including alternator fitted and plugged in, check under bonnet fuses etc, once oil light is illuminated turn over engine without coils or injectors connected to build oil pressure first !
Yay engine in!
Kudos you two.
Keep up the good work!
And don't forget the gearbox oil🙂
Quickest way to see oil pressure without an oil warning light is to loosen off the oil filter slightly and crank it over with the plugs out, Hopefully after 15 or 20 secs cranking oil will start to leak out from the oil filter!
I would use a multi meter to test the oil pressure switch first to see if it has continuity. You can jerry up your own test light & see if the switch activates said light by applying some power through the switch. Also sometimes it could be that the wiring to the pressure switch itself is at fault. For instance if the connected is kinked or has a broken pin. Otherwise I’m clutching at straws
Rule 1 of electronic fault finding: Thou shalt check voltages. In this case, check all your fuses are intact. I suspect the instrument cluster may have a bad earth or a lack of power - the message display and backlight may well be on their own power feed to the instruments / warning lights.
Then, see if it will crank.
I suspect you may get an immobiliser desynched problem, depending on what sort of immobiliser it has, so don't be surprised. (Glances towards UPnDOWN)
Either way, if you have an ECU reader for these, see if you can get it to talk, to prove the ECU is alive. Then clear all the errors and restart. This should tell you what sensors aren't connected.
You can check led bulbs with a multimeter, set to resistence (ohms) bulb should light when probs connected to bulb with current flowing in correct direction.
You said it yourself "make up your own oil pressure warning lamp". Simple circuit with a battery and a lamp in series, connect one wire to the switch terminal, doesn't matter + or - if there are two terminals on the sensor, if there's only one terminal, connect the + to it and the - to the body of the sensor. The engine might not start if it doesn't see a signal from the switch but at least you'll know if you have a working switch and oil pressure on the engine. Practising non standard hand signal in a stationary vehicle, extra points for that.
might need the full wiring connected to complete the circuit
i did a engine swap on a darrwoo yrs ago some of the the plugs were identical it wouldnt start i found the temp sender wires were plugged in where the distributor wires were swapped the plug and it started
another way to test the light is ground the sender wire and see if the light comes on in the dash
Others have already said what I would have said so there's no point in being repetitive: but I would check that no contacts have been pushed back in the terminal housings (especially on multiway connectors) during reassembly or any cables crushed. The most constructive comment I've seen is that of simply "make your own light" using a small test lamp and using a test meter to determine how to do this on the spare oil pressure switch you have.
I love the wood chisel special tool. Thank you for another laugh out loud moment.
I first discovered HubNut when you ran the Reliant engine on the garage floor Ian, made me LOL - This engine job is professional by comparison! (Hint: Don't become too professional...).
As others have said you could short the switch wire(s) and see if the dashboard lamp works, or ever did work. TBH I'd crank it over and see what happens.
If it's a single wire sensor a test light from battery + to the switch will be an adequate substitute. Also check the light lights against the block.
Yeah as someone has said one side of the circuit, normally the dashboard is 12v + and the light is turned on by grounding the other side. Probe with a multimeter to see which wire on the pressure switch has positive voltage (if any). The other leg is most likely going to go to ground. Make sure it does that.
You’ll know whether oil pressure has risen within a few seconds of starting the engine. So go for it. Stop it quick if it keeps rattling after four or five seconds maximum after firing. To ensure a short time for oil pressure to raise, crank it a few times with the spark plug leads off before actually allowing it to start.
I agree that this is probobably fine for will-it-run purposes, but if you want to make a better assessment of engine health, an actual gauge is probably the way to go, and the light is at least a minimum requirement for real operation.
Hi Ian I would give it a quick crank to see if light illuminates as it could be that if battery has been disconnected for so long ecu has gone to sleep lol give it a really quick crank to see if it wakes back up….other than that use a screw in pressure gauge to check it….hope you get it sorted soon
If there’s a 2 pin plug on the oil pressure wire, connect the two together and it will put on the oil light. If you only have 1 pin, put it to earth and it should put the light on. If neither do this, I would say it’s a cluster fault
"It's a cluster fault"...bumper sticker motto!
Cluster something else beginning with F.
It may be a long shot, Try taking a connection from body/chassis direct to the block, once had a similar woe with a toyota after a engine swap, it would start, we had'nt connected the earth stap from th chassis to block.
You said it yourself in the video, just put in an old school pressure sensor with bulb wired to the battery positive, good enough to try a crank/start test.
Try checking all your earth connections from your engine to the body and that goes for the starter motor as well. Good luck 🤞 👍 👍
Did someone primer or rust proof over it perhaps?
Definitely worth a look to see if there is any possibility the wrong plug is connected to the pressure switch. Compare with the back of the old engine to see if there are any similar looking connectors in the vicinity.
When all else fails as a last resort it's common workshop practice read the manual (wiring diagram). Keeping an oil filter in the bedroom - that's Hubnut. I would get that filter changed and connect more engine bits up so it's happier. Since the car is jacked up at the front the dipstick oil level reading will be wrong. Have you had the plugs out to check they are not oiled up and even the combustion chambers full of oil?
I would not worry about oil pressure - it will have some or it won't. In any case if the new motor has no oil pressure it will manifest itself in some obvious way and it will be off on the scrap lorry unless there is an engine rebuild in prospect.
Everything I would have suggested has already been mentioned in the comments. Another way to check oil circulation is to remove the oil filler cap and look for oil been thrown around in abundance, if the oil is reaching the head it's defo going to be in the bottom end. Personally I would have cranked it to test anyway.
Beautifully Hubnut. I'd have been quite amazed if you had got it running first time.
How about a stand alone oil pressure gauge to test? I'd never trust one of those lights
having just serviced my Materia, I also just had a very tight oil cap :)
Have you tried earthing the wire for the pressure switch? That should bring on the light.
Yup
Unless it's two terminals in which case usually just connect together
I agree and I was going to suggest the same thing. At least he could test the bulb that way.
When running right those little Daihatsus are brilliant little cars. "When Running Right That Is"!!!
Connect a mechanical pressure gauge. Check for oil pressure by cranking engine. If OK reconnect ignition and see if it will run. Best of Luck!
Need to do a mustie 1 and get a testlight and probe that oil pressure switch
Exactly this, that’s what I would do 👍
me too
Work tidy, work easier. If your mindset is messy the job will be a mess too.
So, if you grab a multimeter and test that the oil pressure switch is grounded when not running, you know it's in the wiring, maybe it got yanked when removing the old engine? or the engine connector is corroded or otherwise damaged or fouled. If it tests open circuit you've got a duff sender, assuming it's normally closed. all you would need to do to check it is run a bit of wire from the 12v terminal on the battery, to some small 12v bulb, and then to the terminal on the switch, if it lights up that's your temporary oil pressure light.
The chance of doing catastrophic damage from cranking it over without oil pressure is small, there should still be enough of an oil film to protect the moving parts at that kind of speed and duration.
No oil pressure until you crank. Also I think the oil pressure light on these only illuminate when cranking.
Nope, oil light is on until there's enough pressure turn it off
I wouldn't worry about an oil pressure light, just start the damned thing!
Yeah as a quick test just earth the oil pressure wire to ground to check the bulb, unless there is more than one wire so a wiring diag would be needed. The other issue might be that the wire has to go through the ECU maybe.
The light on the dash doesn't matter, the switch does! Use a multimeter to check continuity, which should be there when there is no pressure. You have the switch you removed to practise on. If you do have continuity, either leave the multimeter connected, or wire up a 12v globe to the switch (the one on the engine!). You just made yourself an oil light.
Good luck guys! Remember it’s not over until someone sprays “tân” on the bonnet.
This is one of these things where you need to trace the circuit point by point along the path from the pressure switch all the way to the light in the dash. First step. Have you voltage to the pressure switch? That will be your starting point for tracing the fault. Re the coolant. Only start the engine with coolant in it. The water pump seal needs coolant to lubricate it. Running the engine without coolant will probably damage the pump seal.
Hi Ian & Mrs Hubnut i think you both have done well with the engine to make it go it's a shame it did not start all the best to you both and your family 😎👍👍🔧🔧🏴🏴🏴
That's a nice thing to say.
Enjoyed your video as I used to have a light purple Daihatsu Charade, 03 reg. Very reliable until I swapped it for a C1 mk1 in 2012. One way forward for the oil pressure uncertainty would be to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge, these have the benefit of working with no electrics when the engine is still being turned over on start. They also display the actual pressure whereas the warning light transponder is set really low (about 10psi?). The main downside is that these gauges use an oil pipe under pressure in the cabin so it can be messy if the pipe should spring a leak.
The wise comments elsewhere suggest that this is something that must be wiring-related. You'll get there, don't give up!
Just crank it it may build oil pressure, it doesn't really matter for 15 seconds you could run it with no fluids at all for a short burst, just turn it off. For the vacuum hose if you have the bit that snapped off I would be tempted to use JB Weld, find a drill bit with the right internal diameter to hold the parts in place, it must have 48hrs or more to properly set, then turn rather than pulling the drill bit to release. Or knock it further down before pulling up. JB Weld can be drilled or tapped when set but it has to be 100% static when setting and properly set. It has got me out of many difficult situations.
Hello, take the ignition cable out from the coil so it have no sparks and than start the motor till the oil control never lightning again, it mean oil pressure is enough and than you can reconnect the Sparkcable with the coil, everything's fine.
Earth strap from body to engine, would normally connect via a starter motor bolt, forgot this many time when doing engine swaps!
Wipers on no oil pressure warning and tools flying everywhere. Very hubnut indeed ian.
Just wire your own oil pressure light in for now. Run a wire from the switch, through a bulb and presumably to the positive battery terminal. Once everything else works, you can think about a proper fix, such as soldering a new LED in the binnacle.
You can run test light from positive of the battery to the switch. If the pressure is good at cranking the light should come on. That is only temporary test solution.
Most oil pressure switches just switch to ground soyou can ground the wire. Obviously all depends on the engine being grounded....
You have a dozen or more code readers put one to work - the oil switch is a basic on or off switch, ground the wire the light should come on
A simple test would be set the multimeter to continuity black to a ground, red to the switch (assuming it’s a single pin switch) it will beep until it builds oil pressure
Try reading the oil pressure via a data PID using a diagnostic tool
I would carry on putting it back together as it could be that the oil pressure switch shares wiring with something else that is not there yet. As you said, running for a short time won't tell you much and you can't get it up to operating temperature without a cooling system. You could perhaps test the spare oil pressure switch somehow and find out what it does (normally open, normally closed circuit or whatever) then connect a multimeter or test lamp to the one on the car. You could then use that to indicate when you have oil pressure for the first engine run.
Ahh that's a bugger, not to be able to start the engine, but nevertheless the video was a joy to watch, credits to you both.
Like most others have mentioned, test the light and maybe start the engine anyway, if it's not rattling, you definitely have oil pressure of some sort.
Concerning the broken off servo pipe, you could use a hollow screw, make it to desired length and apply some Loctite on the thread to secure it in place. To create a clean thread in the plasticby the way, heat up the screw with a lighter.
Cheers from somewhere in the north east in the Netherlands
Don't run the engine without coolant, it will kill the water pump in a matter of a few hundred revolutions and might also damage the thermostat, the oil pressure switch is a slight problem, but I wouldn't be too worried, they often fail and it doesn't mean it has no oil pressure and it would be extremely unlikely that the pump has failed, the most common cause of the oil light coming on is no oil in the sump. The tape over the engine check light is weird and doesn't bode well, the ECU is probably full of fault codes and will need checking and clearing, it could even be in a limp home mode (you might have put some codes in it just by turning the ignition on with wires disconnected). This is very hubnut indeed.
I would put a manual pressure gauge on it, then disable the fuel pump by pulling the fuse to prevent starting then crank the engine until you see the pressure rise on the gauge you should see between 15-20 psi when cranking but any pressure is good as long as it's above about 7-8psi most oil pressure switches go off at only 5psi anyway.
Or you could just attempt to start the engine if it is reasonably quite after 5 seconds then you probably have oil pressure, it's not like it's a new engine that has never been run before, hope that is of some help.
Well that's a pain. Everything I can think of has been mentioned below. Had it been me, I would have gone for the start anyway - if the engine is bad it is bad, but it is unlikely to go from good to bad on a quick start. I would have been more annoyed by the broken servo pipe.
I'd drill and tap that hole with 1/4 pipe thread and connect the servo hose using a 1/4 pipe thread air line fitting.
Take the oil filler cap off with coil wires, off crank and see if oil comes up to cam .
Can you see much down the oil filler neck? Some engines you can see the cam/s and will be able to see if oil is being pumped.
I would try connecting everything up and doing a Full System Scan. Then Clear all faults and it will probably come back. U can get a gauge and screw it into the oil pressure switch hole to check the oil pressure. The Check engine light has probably been taped up by a previous owner or a motor trader to put the vehicle through an auction. The fault making it light up was probably something simple. But the light being covered up was a cheaper option to get money out of the car.
I suggest you see if you can get the hold of an oil pressure gauge, from a friend or buy one from a motor factors. screw the fitting in where the oil switch goes and crank the engine over. That will let you see actual oil pressure then you'll know if you're simply dealing with an electrical issue. Or alternatively there's the bush mechanic method of *NEARLY* unscrewing the switch and cranking it and see if any oil has made its way past the threads.
Great little tinkering video, shame that the oil pressure light did not come on, but you have a great community of hubnutters out to help you .
put a test light on the wire going to the pressure switch... you should have 12V (light on the test light)... if u dont then u have a wiring or power feed issue (fuse or light blown in dash)..
If the oil sensor is a single wire short it to ground and if the wiring and led are ok it should light up if it's a two wire unit short them together and the light should come on. If not you have a broken wire or bad connection or duff led, you can check the led wit a digital meter set to continuity or diode one way round with the probes and the led will light and the other way round it wont.
I have just had a look on the web and there might be a possibility The wiring may be faulty so it may be a good idea to test the wiring to make sure that there is sufficient electricity getting through into the sensor
just a thought , position 1 on most ignition switches just gives power to the radio, elecy windows , wipers and shows the battery light, its position 2 that lights up the dashboard and ancillary lights , then position 3 is set against a spring to start the engine, you were telling Mrs Hubnut to go to the first position.....I wonder ???
Taped over check engine light-means an MOT pass.
Depends on the year of the car (after 2003?) but they are supposed to check that the light comes on and then goes out.
A massive effort. Well done! Take five and have another go when you're ready. Can you check the LED comes on in the instrument panel and work back from there and are all your connections at the various plugs clean and connected properly?
urgh! the oil pressure light comes on when there is LOW or no oil pressure thats why its usually off when an engine runs....if its not working when you just turn the key to ignition on its not indicating an engine fault ...as the engine is not yet ON.. or started as I prefer to say 😀
In any case if the light were to come on when it's running the engine was already toast anyways. Though I doubt it if you got it from a reputable source.
In any case, you could plug in a proper gauge instead.
You can test the oil light circuit by simply grounding the sensor pin. That will confirm the lamp circuit is functional. That system gets ignition circuit voltage which needs good engine ground (earth strap) and the ignition power relay energised. That relay may depend on the alternator circuit being connected, along with other peripherals.
You need to install and wire the alternator the oil light will only come on after it has tried to crank. This is normal on something that age after it has to build up oil pressure it will then work as normal.
You must install the radiator and fill it with water before starting as to build up oil pressure it will need to run for about 30 seconds, the engine bone dry so it will heat up really quick.
I am a little confused as without repairing the issue on the manifold all this is a bit pointless if you have to take the engine out again.
Have you connected the engine earth wire? If you ground the oil pressure sensor wire you should get a light.
What a conundrum. Honestly, I don’t think I would have even thought about looking to see is the oil light came on in the ignition on check sequence. I would have gone right for a try at startup. It will have oil pressure and if it doesn’t then it happened previously and it was already ruined before you got it
Great respect for perservering, that is a big task you both have set yourselves. I ride a bicycle so not too much use there, but a thought might help (hope so!) Either contact the UK Daihatsu owners club, possibly there is a FB enthusiasts club or alternatively, go talk to the guys who helped you out with Giselle and Foxanne, to see if they have personal and/or business connections to help you progress towards completion of this project. Consider setting a 'due date' to work towards. Thanks, for your engine swap/rebuild stamina 👍👍
Hi Ian,
Did the oil pressure light work as intended before the engine swap? If so try the switch from that engine on the replacement engine. Failing that you can:
If it's a single wire switch then you just short to ground,
If it's a twin wire switch connector you just bridge the two wires together to test the light.
Hope this helps
Calum
Hope this helps
Cheers. Pretty sure it did work before, is now on the old switch.
Perfect, all should be well now!
You could just take a lead from the live to a test bulb and the negative wire to the pressure switch (as long as it's a simple single terminal switch). Test bulb should light until pressure builds up.
If you can get a wiring diagram, that should answer a lot of your questions. I don't know how available those are to you- i know generally you can buy 30 days of access to factory service info for most brands online, but I have no familiarity with daihatsu (we didn't get those in the states).
If you just want to get it started safely to test the new engine, and defer the more complicated diagnosis for later, a mechanical oil pressure gauge is probably the easiest option, assuming you can get your hands on one with a suitable fitting for that block.
Think Mustie, can you not connect your test light to the oil pressure connection and crank over until the light goes out? 🤔
After all the "will it start?" videos online it's refreshing to watch a "can I break it?".
This is a replacement engine. Just like the brake servo connector thats broken, it may be the oil sensor switch is also broken.
Connect the alternator and check the earth wires are connected otherwise it probably won't crank or fire you should get the oil light on then aswell
Cheers. Aside from cooling fans, everything is now connected.
If you have no funnel place the tip of a long screwdriver in the filler ‘hole’ and slowly pour the oil on the screwdriver- it will cling to it due to surface tension and run down it in to the engine without h spilling ..
You can use the dip- stick instead of a screwdriver