I only have 48k on 2014 6.7 ..i don't need injectors but I was going to buy one NEW injector every 3 to 4 months ,this way when 1 or more eventually go the cost won't be like getting hit with a financial sledgehammer..it would be more like slap from an old lady or a man who votes democrat
@@truthleaker222we are literally watching the democrats tear this country apart, And you think the republicans stab you in the back. Under bummer high gas. Trump, CHEAP GAS AND FOOD AND ENERGY! back under biden(obummer). High gas prices. Even Chucky Schumer came out in 2018 demanding Trump do something about the gas prices. To stupid to see what’s in your face, you have to believe the tv with burning buildings calling it peaceful 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Y’all are literally to D U M B.
Just did a complete rebuild on my 03. #6 rings broke when my fan clutch went out. ….New injectors required as spray pattern bad. ….Installed the industrial oil squirts and 165 degree thermostat. Biggest problem was getting all gaskets and wear sleeves.
You earned a new subscriber! I just put new injectors in my truck about a month ago. It's a 2005 G56 6sp with currently 136k miles on it (bought it in '07 with 48k). For the last few years I would occasionally get the "curly Q" (as I call it) light and it would lose power when that happened. I've been running the Smarty programmer on it since 2009 mainly on the #5 program which worked well for towing; I have a South Bend CON-OFE clutch in it too. Anyway... a year or so ago, I noticed some white smoke under load while towing. I programmed it back to stock. Smoke went away but my EGTs were still able and willing to go well above 1200 deg, which it never did before (I put gauges in before the programmer). So I had figured I had a leaky injector and planned to change them. Then most recently, I noticed a lot of white smoke at startup and rough idle. This went away just as soon as I started driving. I changed the injectors... went with new Bosch injectors, but modified by DAP for +50 hp. BUT, I STILL get that white smoke/rough idle at startup. Not sure what to do at this point... you're the FIRST person I've ever encountered that actually knew what the curly Q light meant when it'd come on while driving. I just ordered a 3-pack of those filters you recommended; truck is stock other than S&B cold air intake, MBRP exhaust (only because the stock one finally rusted through), the Smarty, and the clutch. And now the +50 injectors. Over this winter, the head is coming off for a rebuild, O-ring, gaskets, better bolts, all in preparation for compound turbos. I'm tired of going cross-eyed watching my EGT gauge sit at 1200 deg when towing. :)
Hey sir. I wanted to let you know that I too have an 03, I had a longer start similar to your truck. This winter it got to where unless the truck was plugged in when the temps got below 40 it just wouldn't start. A new set of injectors solved my issue. The longer turnover like you have and my cold start..Also picked up 1MPG.
I have an early 04, 305/555 engine. I have 262k on the odo and original Injectors. Something to consider is 03/early 04 have 8 hole injector tips factory. I contribute this and the Baldwin 5 micron filter, changed every oil change, a good recipe for longevity. I also run Opti-Lube XPD almost every tank. I work the truck daily pulling a dump trailer that is routinely 10k in weight and I'm still on the original trans. Key there is service and no tuner.
Your video was great thanks, mine is 2005, 5.9 it has Banks cold air with scoop, banks intracooler with boost tube, monster ram air horn. I also run a smarty mm3. At 240k I added a fuel filter bank cat + baldwin. The stock turbo had to be replaced at 150k we went with the applied performance full mechanical wastegate. I also use Diesel Kleen (grey bottle). This truck has also been on all Amsoil products from first oil change (engine, trans, both diffs) truck currently has 246k and tows 50% of its life, 30' boat and a 5th wheel of course not at the same time%
2003 mine went 313,000 changed my fuel filter evey other oil change. Just trying to get the money together to buy some now. cool thing is it will be a project that I get my Dads help. that makes it just fine right there.
I carry a plastic 8 oz baby bottle to measure my fuel additives. I have 235k on my original stock injectors. I just had my auto tranny rebuilt when the torque converter wouldn't unlock. I tow heavy a lot with my 04.5
344,000 miles stock injectors but mine is an early 04, so you might be onto something with the injection events. and the best thing you can do for these motors is install the coolant bypass kit from fleece, it allows coolant to flow much better around cylinders 5 and 6 and the fleece version has a thermostat built in so it controls the coolant flow perfectly, and getting proper coolant flow around the back cylinders can stop a lot of issues they have :)
A hard start or lack of power due to low rail pressure isn't always injectors. Try retorquing the connector tube nuts at the cylinder head. They lose tension over time and fuel Will leak at the tube to injector seat
Better put a gauge on your lift pump I did had 5 lbs at idle. I saw that Fleece had a intank lift pump which it has twin gear motor pumps and runs off factory wiring harness and the second pump runs off its own harness so that means one could go bad and you will be able to drive it on one and I have 21lbs at idle and 18-19 on hard pulls so hope this helps some one .
I run the Baldwin filter, cost me $13.25. And yes they are the real deal , I talked to the company about it wondering if they were the counterfeit and Baldwin assured me that he buys direct from them. Check around, you may be able to find a better price. Chatham Industrial is where I buy from. Places like this normally carry the automotive as an extra to their industrial products and you'll get a lot better deal. Same filter from Grainger is $25.00.
I was told that one more sign of injector failure on a Dodge Cummins at least on the five nine is if you mash the throttle from an idle and let your foot off immediately if it takes a while for the engine to idle back down that might be an indication of failed injectors. Not sure what would cause that but my truck does that and I do think it has at least tired injectors and it's only has 211,000 Mi on the engine I doubt they've ever been changed
Thanks for the info, I’m subscribed to 2 channels and your one of them. I recently purchased a 2005 Cummins 180k runs good. New to the diesel world but I get a lot of information from your videos. Thank you
No, nice truck I just had to replace my injectors on my 2005 ram, it was quite the job, I had to buy the rebuilt one's because of my budget, and seem to be doing fine, order than I feel the truck with a little less power for some reason , keep the videos coming.
I bought a 2007 dodge 2500 brand new and drove it 274,00 miles before the injectors went out. But when they did it was the number 6 cylinder that was really bad. It melted the top of the piston.
So I just bought an 07 5.9 and it has no smoke, no long crank, plenty of power and overall runs good. My wait to start light blinks and then kicks on. It’ll ding 5 times every time I go to start it. Do I need new injectors?
I’m looking at a 2005 4x4 2500 with only 56k miles. How many hours would you say is too many for this little amount of mileage? Asking price is $23k but I’m thinking I should be able to knock a few thousand off that price easily.
Just replaced mine in my 2003 @ 255k. They'd been hurting for a while. PO had the rail pressure turned up etc via a Smarty on stock filtration. I added the CAT 2 micron right after buying it. If you own a Cummins, add a secondary fuel filter ASAP! Most important mod iun my opinion. If your rail pressure doesn't immediately jump up to 1.5-2k psi while cranking, the injectors are worn out. Other than that, the truck ran great once she was sprayed with a little starting fluid. Hopefully these new injectors last a good long time with my CAT filtration!
my trucks fires up no problem in the morning time. as soon as i let it sit for a few hours she just wants to crank and crank. granite i am running 225hp injectors. whatre your thoughts? oh and my rail pressure is at the desired pressure full throttle. according to my HP tuner data log. bad crank sensor maybe?
Bought an early 04 a few months back.. 298k on the clock.original injectors.. pulled them and had them tested and calibrated and new 30% over bosch injector tips put on just for preventative maintenance. Previous owner stated he changed the fuel filter every time he changed oil. Injectors all tested within factory spec.
When i bought my truck the wts light was staying on while driving. Spent 34 days at the dealer. Was getting high return supposedly they did a "fuel injection clean on it" and supposedly fixed it. But i have noticed my wts light doesn't even come on when turning key on but not starting it. Seems my truck doesn't have as much power and doesn't roll coal as much as it did at first. Any suggestions??
I have an 03 5.9 ho with the 6 speed. I bought the truck at 268k and just rolled over 423k. I've recently replaced the rail pressure relief valve and installed a boost fooler. Before i was running an average of 19.5 mpg, now, I'm getting around 22. I don't use normal additives. I built a black diesel setup and have been using it for several years.
How’s your truck holding up? Currently looking at an 04 exactly like yours with the HO engine. But it has 400k miles.. want to know if I should walk away?
@@berniemac8413 I have over 466k on mine now and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across country. I've had to replace the injectors and ecm this year but it has been the best vehicle I could hope for. I plan on driving this truck to a million miles and more.
@@terrystacey2257 nice! Anything I should look out for it specifically? Other than the blow by and smoke coming from the exhaust. What would be a fair price to pay for one that has no type of service records?
Blow by is how they measure the health of these Cummins motors. Especially the 5.9s always have a little bit if blow by but as they go they will get more and more blow by. I dont know where but there is a tool and a chart for the health of the Cummins motor
2005 with 299k runnin Smarty (performance setting last 150k), S&B, and Banks. Just replaced #2 about 8k ago. Stanadyne is awesome!!! I run the blue. May try your red. I also run rotel last 2.5 gallons and Lucas the other half and change fuel filter every other oil change. I try to change my oil bout 3-4k
I've been using a mixture of 112 0z. of Power Service and 128 oz. (gallon) of TWC3 2 cycle oil for 15 years and 155,000 miles in my 2005 Dodge. I used Mystery Motor Oil (basically naptha) for the first year but found out that 2 cycle oil is a much better lubricant. I saved all my MMO quart bottles and fill them up with the Power Service/2 cycle mixture. I add .7 oz. per gallon when I fill up.
My 06' 3rd Gen 5.9L had a bank 1 or bank 2 injector fault causing limp in mode at around 92K miles 10 years ago or more. Engine was still under the 100k mike warranty. Dealer misdiagnosed cause as injectors. So what the heck. Ok, put all new injectors in it i said, and they did. A Cummins Engineer i worked with said i would have received better injectors than what the engine was built with. He said the new injectors would have chrome pintels, making them harder and more durable. That was an interesting point. Of course later the fault returned. Dealer replaced the UVC gasket, then known to have a potential chafe condition. A TSB was released on that. Problem is the UVC was previosly replaced with new based on the warranty history of the 1st owner. Fault returned again. I fixed it by applying electrical grease to the two UVC connectors from the engine harness. The connectors are subject to Fretting due to the engine vibration signature. God knows how many parts cannons have been directed at these 24V 5.9s for this condition. No TSB on this i could find. My injector fault code has not returned. I now have 164k miles. I do on occassioned get a short lived cylinder misfire with smoke when starting cold, but it clears up quickly and runs great. Thanks for the video. Maybe my experience here can help other readers.
chrysler needed to install a way better lift pump in our trucks from the factory and they would had had a good fuel system for the cummins to feed off of
i have an 05 im at 301k never changed injectors but im looking into them the only sign of getting tired is a little smoke on cold start and if I hit the gas in park in Studer's down rpms
Have 2003, 268k. miles on original injectors. Change oil at 15k with lucas and oil analysis. Use walmart tcw-3 2 stroke oil in fuel for lubricate. Agree ATF isn't good.
I bough an 03 with 148xxx miles. A teen owned my truck prior and put an AFE intake on it, 5 inch exhaust, and edge tuner on it. I have a long start and notice a slight white smoke haze at a WARM IDOL only. The haze is very visible at night when I’m stopped at a light and a car pulls up behind me with headlights on. I’ve heard that I could have bad injectors but I’ve also heard that my valve seals are leaking oil. I’m stumped. Please give advice. Thanks.
It's usually injectors but one thing you could try first is to throw an additive at it for a tank and see if it clears. For this situation I'd suggest stanadyne brown or hotshots extreme. They do one tank and are not meant to be run all the time but sometimes it does the trick. You could also revert to stock tune if you still have the edge tuner and see what happens also. Leaky valve seals at 148k would surprise me but it is possible. I'd monitor the oil level and make sure it's not burning oil to rule that one out.
I’m very interested on getting 5.9 Cummins the motor is made in my town Columbus Indiana so pretty sure if something was wrong then I could find somebody to figure it out
I think you are looking at the throttle position sensor under the intake horn. That is something on the older 5.9s. Your 06 probably has it integrated with the pedal.
Added a Cat with 24770 WIX base and WIX filter with a DD base to my truck and kept the stock fuel filter in the middle. Also have a pressure gauge that will tell me if the filters are getting clogged up. I have 2005 DRW 4door 3500 with 162,000 miles. photos.app.goo.gl/oBQ4Hv2qaTrJwv6z7 Important to note, the aluminum Cat filter needs a non aluminum thread nipple on the filter base, or it can jam and weld together. I made my own bracket for it to fit after the OEM filter. And rebent the OEM fuel pipe from CP3 pump to reuse for the CAT filter. There is a better Ultra High Efficiency CAT filter 416-1225 to replace the 1R0750 which I will use someday, it will fit on same base.
I got a 1999 ram 3500 dually sport bone stock with some air bolt ons and a smarty tuner on 35s with 290k miles On stock injectors but I ain’t sayin they feel perfect
5.9 does not have a EGR system, The multiple firing of injectors during the power sequence is more for noise emissions, That’s why common rails are quieter than the previous models, with VP44 pumps or rotary or inline. The majority of injectors that fail are caused by tuners, Tuners give a biased signal to the engine ECM that makes the ECM think rail pressure is lower than it actually is. The ECM sees this signal and commands the pump to produce more pressure, The more pressure produced causes injectors to spray more fuel, more fuel = more power. More power equals less reliability. Pumps and injectors don’t last operating at higher pressures than designed, If your truck is hard starting and your getting fuel system codes, remove fuel lines from common rail to quill tubes, retorque quill tubes, the nuts holding the quill tubes do vibrate loose, when they are loose, high pressure fuel will leak by the quill tube to injector area and cause high pressure to bleed off, Mostly 5.9s are bullet proof in stock form, I worked for Cummins Engine Company for almost 20 years,
So I'm planning on buying my first 03 Cummins and the owner rebuilt the engine and it does look rebuilt and I'm not seeing any run spots but it's tuned and has the natural dodge steering with a year old transmission and it runs like a champ and no hard shifting. Do you have any advice on how I can keep it going for years to come?
My advice would be to change your oil and fuel filters on time and take care of the front end if it needs it (ball joints, tie rod ends). It might be good to get an EGT gauge/probe since the truck is tuned so you can get an idea of your temps back near cylinder 6.
Man, I have all new injectors in my truck, and the #6 injector solenoid just quits. 5.3 ohms of resistance where the others are 0.00 to 0.08 ohms... I just tossed in the best of the previous that were pulled out. Sucks.
@@OutpostCTD Nah, I tried that route - I got them at a deal, that unfortunately didn't include a warranty. At least a few of the old ones were in good shape.
Yeah I’ve never had a diesel and I’ve got a chance to grab a 2004 6 speed 4x4 four door dually for 8k. It needs a transfer case rebuild and a windshield. My wife doesn’t want me to but I needy. Thank God for YT cuz I’ve learned a lot in the last week.
Here's a thought for you on the additive and someone may have already mentioned and I missed it. Buy a single dose bottle and refill from the big one. Then you take the single when you fill with fuel. I do the same with my oil when I change since I have found oil much cheaper when you buy it in 5 gallon plus volumes.
Hate to burst bubble and piss all in your Cheerios but I have a 03 h.o 6 speed and worked my truck hard and have stock injectors going on 665,000 now I'm getting ready to order new ones this week. It had hard start to where that old lady needs nose candy to fire up and at times it runs good other times it chugs switching gears and you could hear a miss while idling. So not all go bad early sometimes a guy gets lucky
No bubble bursted. Some do last long. I don’t know for sure but mine could be original and that would be 441k miles as of now. I’m noticing that most people reporting 300k+ miles on their injectors have 03 or 04.0 truck with the 2 injection events versus the 04.5+ which have the extra injection event.
It means the number of separate fuel injections per cycle of the piston. In this case there’s a pilot injection, then the main injection, then a post injection. The 03 and 04.0 models don’t have the post injection event.
Looking at a 04 ram Cummings 4x4. Has little over 300k miles with new injectors. Anyone have a average life span these are good for? Obviously there is not a perfect answer. Could i expect over 500k in a good scenario?
Best I get out of Bosch 505 injectors seems to be around 350,000. I just pull them for testing at that point as I feel the valve lash needs adjusted at that point anyways. Only $50/per injector to get tested where I live
I have 2007 dodge and had it 4 years the only thing had to change fuel pump braked and sparks other that is runs great and pulls great its 5.7 liter hemi 1500
Great vid...got a new subscriber. I have an issue with my 07, it smokes lightly/occasionally on start up in the summer. If it is colder and the grid heater cycles, it never happens. If I take truck out of park it goes away instantly. It has been doing it for 2 years now, nobody can figure out why?? Of course every shop I ask just says "needs new injectors" Any ideas???
That's an interesting situation because usually smoke on startup happens during extremely cold weather. I doubt it actually needs injectors though. My truck emits a puff of smoke when started up particularly when warm also but it clears up right away.
Me i add fuel additives to every take of fuel due to today ultra low sulfur fuel sucks due to it doesnt have all the lubricity that diesel once had before they decided to take alot of the sulfur out. I use hotshot secret everyday diesel treatment and there diesel winter anti-gel additive to every fill up beacuse i like to know that my injectors and injector pump is getting the lubricity that it needs. yes it cost me about 19 dollars of EDT for a 16 ouce bottle and about 15 dollars for the winter anti gel 16 ouce bottle of it but is well worth it to me beacuse i am getting that lubricity.
Id say possibly yes on a 12 valve. No on 24 valves. I think it would be hard on the injection pump and injectors on the newer trucks even though it would improve lubricity. The ATF is not meant to burn and they design it to resist burning. It produces a lot of ash when burnt.
I only have 48k on 2014 6.7 ..i don't need injectors but I was going to buy one NEW injector every 3 to 4 months ,this way when 1 or more eventually go the cost won't be like getting hit with a financial sledgehammer..it would be more like slap from an old lady or a man who votes democrat
Hahah what?
Yeah it’s demoralizing when you get slapped from in front of you. You know it’s a Republican when it you never see it coming.
@@truthleaker222we are literally watching the democrats tear this country apart, And you think the republicans stab you in the back. Under bummer high gas. Trump, CHEAP GAS AND FOOD AND ENERGY! back under biden(obummer). High gas prices. Even Chucky Schumer came out in 2018 demanding Trump do something about the gas prices. To stupid to see what’s in your face, you have to believe the tv with burning buildings calling it peaceful 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Y’all are literally to D U M B.
Just picked up an ‘04 Cummins with high mileage and a new transmission, thanks for your videos!
2005 Cummins with 250000 still running strong Original injectors
The only thing replaced #4 injector line
Great video and sharp truck
Just did a complete rebuild on my 03. #6 rings broke when my fan clutch went out. ….New injectors required as spray pattern bad. ….Installed the industrial oil squirts and 165 degree thermostat. Biggest problem was getting all gaskets and wear sleeves.
You earned a new subscriber! I just put new injectors in my truck about a month ago. It's a 2005 G56 6sp with currently 136k miles on it (bought it in '07 with 48k). For the last few years I would occasionally get the "curly Q" (as I call it) light and it would lose power when that happened. I've been running the Smarty programmer on it since 2009 mainly on the #5 program which worked well for towing; I have a South Bend CON-OFE clutch in it too. Anyway... a year or so ago, I noticed some white smoke under load while towing. I programmed it back to stock. Smoke went away but my EGTs were still able and willing to go well above 1200 deg, which it never did before (I put gauges in before the programmer). So I had figured I had a leaky injector and planned to change them. Then most recently, I noticed a lot of white smoke at startup and rough idle. This went away just as soon as I started driving. I changed the injectors... went with new Bosch injectors, but modified by DAP for +50 hp. BUT, I STILL get that white smoke/rough idle at startup.
Not sure what to do at this point... you're the FIRST person I've ever encountered that actually knew what the curly Q light meant when it'd come on while driving. I just ordered a 3-pack of those filters you recommended; truck is stock other than S&B cold air intake, MBRP exhaust (only because the stock one finally rusted through), the Smarty, and the clutch. And now the +50 injectors.
Over this winter, the head is coming off for a rebuild, O-ring, gaskets, better bolts, all in preparation for compound turbos. I'm tired of going cross-eyed watching my EGT gauge sit at 1200 deg when towing. :)
That's for the video!! I have a 2003 Cummins. Great Motor.
Hey sir. I wanted to let you know that I too have an 03, I had a longer start similar to your truck. This winter it got to where unless the truck was plugged in when the temps got below 40 it just wouldn't start. A new set of injectors solved my issue. The longer turnover like you have and my cold start..Also picked up 1MPG.
I have an early 04, 305/555 engine. I have 262k on the odo and original Injectors. Something to consider is 03/early 04 have 8 hole injector tips factory. I contribute this and the Baldwin 5 micron filter, changed every oil change, a good recipe for longevity. I also run Opti-Lube XPD almost every tank. I work the truck daily pulling a dump trailer that is routinely 10k in weight and I'm still on the original trans. Key there is service and no tuner.
How’s it running now? If you still have original trans, about how many every miles do you change the trans fluid and filter?
Your video was great thanks, mine is 2005, 5.9 it has Banks cold air with scoop, banks intracooler with boost tube, monster ram air horn. I also run a smarty mm3. At 240k I added a fuel filter bank cat + baldwin. The stock turbo had to be replaced at 150k we went with the applied performance full mechanical wastegate. I also use Diesel Kleen (grey bottle). This truck has also been on all Amsoil products from first oil change (engine, trans, both diffs) truck currently has 246k and tows 50% of its life, 30' boat and a 5th wheel of course not at the same time%
Why did the turbo give out?
2003 mine went 313,000 changed my fuel filter evey other oil change. Just trying to get the money together to buy some now. cool thing is it will be a project that I get my Dads help. that makes it just fine right there.
Got a 03 5.9 and best thing I did. I did the fuel filter mod to run a caterpillar 1 micron fuel filter on the motor that thing is amazing.
I carry a plastic 8 oz baby bottle to measure my fuel additives. I have 235k on my original stock injectors. I just had my auto tranny rebuilt when the torque converter wouldn't unlock. I tow heavy a lot with my 04.5
Have 05 with 420000 original injector. But I use additives regularly. Regular lubrication of your pump and injector will help them last longer.
You deserve way more attention man love the channel!
He DEFINITELY DOES..8 own a 6.7 4 gen but Love his videos
I have a 2003 dodge cummins with a nv5600 sixspeed I love the truck
I’ve got a chance to pick up a 04 4x4 6speed 4 door dually for 8k. It needs the transfer case rebuilt and a windshield to be road worthy.
I've been using stanadyne for 10 years it is excellent for my diesel.
I have an 05 Cummins 380000 Kms, still original injectors, but I changed the filters regularly and used a lot of additives.
I bought the Stanadyne one shot bottles then keep those and fill them from the large bottles with small funnel... works fine.
thanks for the video
344,000 miles stock injectors but mine is an early 04, so you might be onto something with the injection events. and the best thing you can do for these motors is install the coolant bypass kit from fleece, it allows coolant to flow much better around cylinders 5 and 6 and the fleece version has a thermostat built in so it controls the coolant flow perfectly, and getting proper coolant flow around the back cylinders can stop a lot of issues they have :)
I just did the fleece bypass and it evened out the EGTs. I have pyrometers for front 3 and back 3. I think over all temps came down a little too.
A hard start or lack of power due to low rail pressure isn't always injectors. Try retorquing the connector tube nuts at the cylinder head. They lose tension over time and fuel Will leak at the tube to injector seat
Barry O will that cause oil to leak into the crank case?
@@dangerousfreedom4965 No. Only high pressure fuel to low pressure return to tank.
Better put a gauge on your lift pump I did had 5 lbs at idle. I saw that Fleece had a intank lift pump which it has twin gear motor pumps and runs off factory wiring harness and the second pump runs off its own harness so that means one could go bad and you will be able to drive it on one and I have 21lbs at idle and 18-19 on hard pulls so hope this helps some one .
I run the Baldwin filter, cost me $13.25. And yes they are the real deal , I talked to the company about it wondering if they were the counterfeit and Baldwin assured me that he buys direct from them. Check around, you may be able to find a better price. Chatham Industrial is where I buy from. Places like this normally carry the automotive as an extra to their industrial products and you'll get a lot better deal. Same filter from Grainger is $25.00.
I was told that one more sign of injector failure on a Dodge Cummins at least on the five nine is if you mash the throttle from an idle and let your foot off immediately if it takes a while for the engine to idle back down that might be an indication of failed injectors. Not sure what would cause that but my truck does that and I do think it has at least tired injectors and it's only has 211,000 Mi on the engine I doubt they've ever been changed
Thanks for the info, I’m subscribed to 2 channels and your one of them. I recently purchased a 2005 Cummins 180k runs good. New to the diesel world but I get a lot of information from your videos. Thank you
Thanks for this video. Love 3rd gens.
Do you like lucas diesel fuel treatment
No, nice truck I just had to replace my injectors on my 2005 ram, it was quite the job, I had to buy the rebuilt one's because of my budget, and seem to be doing fine, order than I feel the truck with a little less power for some reason , keep the videos coming.
I bought a 2007 dodge 2500 brand new and drove it 274,00 miles before the injectors went out. But when they did it was the number 6 cylinder that was really bad. It melted the top of the piston.
So I just bought an 07 5.9 and it has no smoke, no long crank, plenty of power and overall runs good. My wait to start light blinks and then kicks on. It’ll ding 5 times every time I go to start it. Do I need new injectors?
The best thing to do, get your oil Analyze every oil change.
Then you know if you’re getting Fuel in the oil?
Bad injectors?
what is the best way to monitor the injectors ? fuel pressure gauge ? or OBD2 reader?
I’m looking at a 2005 4x4 2500 with only 56k miles. How many hours would you say is too many for this little amount of mileage? Asking price is $23k but I’m thinking I should be able to knock a few thousand off that price easily.
My 06 got new injectors at 700k over a million now...
😎
Cool
@Quentin Justinno one gives a damn about your comment either.
Sheesh, my 05 cummins just hit 505,000 on stock injectors. But I might have to replace them soon
Just replaced mine in my 2003 @ 255k. They'd been hurting for a while. PO had the rail pressure turned up etc via a Smarty on stock filtration. I added the CAT 2 micron right after buying it. If you own a Cummins, add a secondary fuel filter ASAP! Most important mod iun my opinion. If your rail pressure doesn't immediately jump up to 1.5-2k psi while cranking, the injectors are worn out. Other than that, the truck ran great once she was sprayed with a little starting fluid. Hopefully these new injectors last a good long time with my CAT filtration!
Which cat filters do you use and air dog or FASS?
rev the engine to 3k and watch the tachometer needle fall. if it falls down kinda jumpy it means the injectors dumping too much feul
How do you fix that?
my truck is doing that how do i fix it ??
@@Vader4tw replace injectors and hope your pistons arent fried.
my trucks fires up no problem in the morning time. as soon as i let it sit for a few hours she just wants to crank and crank. granite i am running 225hp injectors. whatre your thoughts? oh and my rail pressure is at the desired pressure full throttle. according to my HP tuner data log. bad crank sensor maybe?
Bought an early 04 a few months back.. 298k on the clock.original injectors.. pulled them and had them tested and calibrated and new 30% over bosch injector tips put on just for preventative maintenance. Previous owner stated he changed the fuel filter every time he changed oil. Injectors all tested within factory spec.
Also just installed an airdog 4G so should be good for a while.
I have a early 04 going on 227k and it's having injectors fail. I use hot shots ETD with every fill up
When i bought my truck the wts light was staying on while driving. Spent 34 days at the dealer. Was getting high return supposedly they did a "fuel injection clean on it" and supposedly fixed it. But i have noticed my wts light doesn't even come on when turning key on but not starting it. Seems my truck doesn't have as much power and doesn't roll coal as much as it did at first. Any suggestions??
I’ve got 308k on a 2006 with OEM injectors. I’ve had an Airdog fuel system since 70k and add fuel treatments about once or twice per year.
Great video, I don't understand why injectors are expensive if they do not last like a gas burner vehicle do
Because They have to be built to withstand 10,000-20,000psi. Gas injectors only go up to about 60psi
I have an 03 5.9 ho with the 6 speed. I bought the truck at 268k and just rolled over 423k. I've recently replaced the rail pressure relief valve and installed a boost fooler. Before i was running an average of 19.5 mpg, now, I'm getting around 22. I don't use normal additives. I built a black diesel setup and have been using it for several years.
What’s the mileage at now looking to buy a 06 2500 5.9 with 459xxxkms
How’s your truck holding up? Currently looking at an 04 exactly like yours with the HO engine. But it has 400k miles.. want to know if I should walk away?
@@berniemac8413 I have over 466k on mine now and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across country. I've had to replace the injectors and ecm this year but it has been the best vehicle I could hope for. I plan on driving this truck to a million miles and more.
@@zackisbaked8851 sorry Zach. If it is a 5.9, buy it. That's all I can say
@@terrystacey2257 nice! Anything I should look out for it specifically? Other than the blow by and smoke coming from the exhaust. What would be a fair price to pay for one that has no type of service records?
Blow by is how they measure the health of these Cummins motors. Especially the 5.9s always have a little bit if blow by but as they go they will get more and more blow by. I dont know where but there is a tool and a chart for the health of the Cummins motor
2005 with 299k runnin Smarty (performance setting last 150k), S&B, and Banks. Just replaced #2 about 8k ago. Stanadyne is awesome!!! I run the blue. May try your red. I also run rotel last 2.5 gallons and Lucas the other half and change fuel filter every other oil change. I try to change my oil bout 3-4k
I've been using a mixture of 112 0z. of Power Service and 128 oz. (gallon) of TWC3 2 cycle oil for 15 years and 155,000 miles in my 2005 Dodge. I used Mystery Motor Oil (basically naptha) for the first year but found out that 2 cycle oil is a much better lubricant. I saved all my MMO quart bottles and fill them up with the Power Service/2 cycle mixture. I add .7 oz. per gallon when I fill up.
Do you add that mix to your oil?
My 06' 3rd Gen 5.9L had a bank 1 or bank 2 injector fault causing limp in mode at around 92K miles 10 years ago or more. Engine was still under the 100k mike warranty. Dealer misdiagnosed cause as injectors. So what the heck. Ok, put all new injectors in it i said, and they did. A Cummins Engineer i worked with said i would have received better injectors than what the engine was built with. He said the new injectors would have chrome pintels, making them harder and more durable. That was an interesting point.
Of course later the fault returned. Dealer replaced the UVC gasket, then known to have a potential chafe condition. A TSB was released on that. Problem is the UVC was previosly replaced with new based on the warranty history of the 1st owner. Fault returned again. I fixed it by applying electrical grease to the two UVC connectors from the engine harness. The connectors are subject to Fretting due to the engine vibration signature. God knows how many parts cannons have been directed at these 24V 5.9s for this condition. No TSB on this i could find. My injector fault code has not returned. I now have 164k miles. I do on occassioned get a short lived cylinder misfire with smoke when starting cold, but it clears up quickly and runs great. Thanks for the video. Maybe my experience here can help other readers.
How does an injector cause blow by?
Melting a hole in the piston
To add to your data. I have an early 04 with 372k before injector problems. First sign extend start to no start.
chrysler needed to install a way better lift pump in our trucks from the factory and they would had had a good fuel system for the cummins to feed off of
Good info, nice truck. love the mirrors
What type of cold air intake are you running and why. I couldn’t see from the video.
It is a aFe. I like it, but the main reason im running it is that it was on the truck when I got it.
i have an 05 im at 301k never changed injectors but im looking into them the only sign of getting tired is a little smoke on cold start and if I hit the gas in park in Studer's down rpms
Little white smoke when starting up?
Have 2003, 268k. miles on original injectors. Change oil at 15k with lucas and oil analysis. Use walmart tcw-3 2 stroke oil in fuel for lubricate. Agree ATF isn't good.
I bough an 03 with 148xxx miles. A teen owned my truck prior and put an AFE intake on it, 5 inch exhaust, and edge tuner on it. I have a long start and notice a slight white smoke haze at a WARM IDOL only. The haze is very visible at night when I’m stopped at a light and a car pulls up behind me with headlights on. I’ve heard that I could have bad injectors but I’ve also heard that my valve seals are leaking oil. I’m stumped. Please give advice. Thanks.
It's usually injectors but one thing you could try first is to throw an additive at it for a tank and see if it clears. For this situation I'd suggest stanadyne brown or hotshots extreme. They do one tank and are not meant to be run all the time but sometimes it does the trick. You could also revert to stock tune if you still have the edge tuner and see what happens also. Leaky valve seals at 148k would surprise me but it is possible. I'd monitor the oil level and make sure it's not burning oil to rule that one out.
My advice is to Never buy a truck owned by a teenager especially if it is not stock!
Are there any idling symptoms?
Say man I have a qustion for ya..I have a 03.5year 5.9 cunnins and some how I'm getting a shit load of fule in my oil what's the cause?
Injectors probably leaking by.
I’m very interested on getting 5.9 Cummins the motor is made in my town Columbus Indiana so pretty sure if something was wrong then I could find somebody to figure it out
Is it normal for the spring to be on when you first turn on the Key in the winter
Yep. Means your grid heater is warming up your intake air.
I have an 06 5.9 188k orig injectors, Question what is that cover under the air intake??
I think you are looking at the throttle position sensor under the intake horn. That is something on the older 5.9s. Your 06 probably has it integrated with the pedal.
Added a Cat with 24770 WIX base and WIX filter with a DD base to my truck and kept the stock fuel filter in the middle. Also have a pressure gauge that will tell me if the filters are getting clogged up. I have 2005 DRW 4door 3500 with 162,000 miles.
photos.app.goo.gl/oBQ4Hv2qaTrJwv6z7
Important to note, the aluminum Cat filter needs a non aluminum thread nipple on the filter base, or it can jam and weld together.
I made my own bracket for it to fit after the OEM filter. And rebent the OEM fuel pipe from CP3 pump to reuse for the CAT filter.
There is a better Ultra High Efficiency CAT filter 416-1225 to replace the 1R0750 which I will use someday, it will fit on same base.
Cool setup!
I got a 1999 ram 3500 dually sport bone stock with some air bolt ons and a smarty tuner on 35s with 290k miles On stock injectors but I ain’t sayin they feel perfect
The injectors can crack and leak fuel into the crank case
5.9 does not have a EGR system, The multiple firing of injectors during the power sequence is more for noise emissions, That’s why common rails are quieter than the previous models, with VP44 pumps or rotary or inline. The majority of injectors that fail are caused by tuners, Tuners give a biased signal to the engine ECM that makes the ECM think rail pressure is lower than it actually is. The ECM sees this signal and commands the pump to produce more pressure, The more pressure produced causes injectors to spray more fuel, more fuel = more power. More power equals less reliability. Pumps and injectors don’t last operating at higher pressures than designed, If your truck is hard starting and your getting fuel system codes, remove fuel lines from common rail to quill tubes, retorque quill tubes, the nuts holding the quill tubes do vibrate loose, when they are loose, high pressure fuel will leak by the quill tube to injector area and cause high pressure to bleed off, Mostly 5.9s are bullet proof in stock form, I worked for Cummins Engine Company for almost 20 years,
So I'm planning on buying my first 03 Cummins and the owner rebuilt the engine and it does look rebuilt and I'm not seeing any run spots but it's tuned and has the natural dodge steering with a year old transmission and it runs like a champ and no hard shifting. Do you have any advice on how I can keep it going for years to come?
My advice would be to change your oil and fuel filters on time and take care of the front end if it needs it (ball joints, tie rod ends). It might be good to get an EGT gauge/probe since the truck is tuned so you can get an idea of your temps back near cylinder 6.
Awesome thank you and really enjoying these informational videos of yours
@@adriangomez182 make sure the engine doesnt have any blow by. And if you want it to last just dont tune it extremely hard
Also oil (if not sealed) the universal ball/Axel joints if it has high mileage.
This is my exact situation. I have 363xxx miles and theres no way these are stock and I’ve put 20k miles on the pickup too. Crazyyy
Man, I have all new injectors in my truck, and the #6 injector solenoid just quits. 5.3 ohms of resistance where the others are 0.00 to 0.08 ohms... I just tossed in the best of the previous that were pulled out. Sucks.
Can you get that injector replaced under warranty?
@@OutpostCTD Nah, I tried that route - I got them at a deal, that unfortunately didn't include a warranty. At least a few of the old ones were in good shape.
What year 6.7l is good?
So how long does a normal start up take ? On a warm weather. My 03 5.9 takes like 2seconds ish
That’s healthy. Mine takes about 4 seconds.
@@OutpostCTD Thanks. This is my first ram/big diesel truck. Being very careful and sometimes too much worried
Yeah I’ve never had a diesel and I’ve got a chance to grab a 2004 6 speed 4x4 four door dually for 8k. It needs a transfer case rebuild and a windshield. My wife doesn’t want me to but I needy. Thank God for YT cuz I’ve learned a lot in the last week.
Here's a thought for you on the additive and someone may have already mentioned and I missed it. Buy a single dose bottle and refill from the big one. Then you take the single when you fill with fuel. I do the same with my oil when I change since I have found oil much cheaper when you buy it in 5 gallon plus volumes.
Are you saying you go 9-12k miles between oil changes?
On this truck I do. Im up to 12k miles and the lab is telling me I could go longer.
I'm at 15k.
What lab you using outpost CTD
Hate to burst bubble and piss all in your Cheerios but I have a 03 h.o 6 speed and worked my truck hard and have stock injectors going on 665,000 now I'm getting ready to order new ones this week. It had hard start to where that old lady needs nose candy to fire up and at times it runs good other times it chugs switching gears and you could hear a miss while idling. So not all go bad early sometimes a guy gets lucky
No bubble bursted. Some do last long. I don’t know for sure but mine could be original and that would be 441k miles as of now. I’m noticing that most people reporting 300k+ miles on their injectors have 03 or 04.0 truck with the 2 injection events versus the 04.5+ which have the extra injection event.
3 injection events? What exactly does that mean?
It means the number of separate fuel injections per cycle of the piston. In this case there’s a pilot injection, then the main injection, then a post injection. The 03 and 04.0 models don’t have the post injection event.
I got 230000 miles on my injectors on my 05, roughly 370000kms
my 2005 has 322000 miles currently on factory injectors.
How about now? Still running?
AC delving has a 4 micron fuel filter
My 04 340k running strong all stock never been in the motor
My 04 has very little blow by from the cap I mean is really light is it normal with 145,000 miles on it
Some haze coming through is normal even for low mileage engines
Haze is normal my 04 has 260k and has no blow by
Looking at a 04 ram Cummings 4x4. Has little over 300k miles with new injectors. Anyone have a average life span these are good for? Obviously there is not a perfect answer. Could i expect over 500k in a good scenario?
Best I get out of Bosch 505 injectors seems to be around 350,000. I just pull them for testing at that point as I feel the valve lash needs adjusted at that point anyways. Only $50/per injector to get tested where I live
I have 2007 dodge and had it 4 years the only thing had to change fuel pump braked and sparks other that is runs great and pulls great its 5.7 liter hemi 1500
292k on mine just went out today late 04.5
how the hell do you get your hood latch to pop with that tight of a bumper gap???
402000 miles on 2006 5.9 injectors. new cp3 though.
Speedo quit about 250,000 10 years ago original injectors I guess I'm doing well starts quickly everytime!everything! Its a 96 ram
I have an 03 truck my injectors went at 220000 miles and never hazed what so ever
Are you in Brevard county?
Have 05 with 410000 all original injectors.
Great vid...got a new subscriber. I have an issue with my 07, it smokes lightly/occasionally on start up in the summer. If it is colder and the grid heater cycles, it never happens. If I take truck out of park it goes away instantly. It has been doing it for 2 years now, nobody can figure out why?? Of course every shop I ask just says "needs new injectors"
Any ideas???
That's an interesting situation because usually smoke on startup happens during extremely cold weather. I doubt it actually needs injectors though. My truck emits a puff of smoke when started up particularly when warm also but it clears up right away.
I glad u said my 07 does the same it has diesel smell let it warm up 5-10 first start driving It Smokes a little clears up and runs like a scolded dog
Sure I need injectors... are 50 over injectors the way to go... daily driver... work truck...
I have a 06 3500 and 2 injectors are smoked at 85k
400,000 and still running good
Have you done anything special?
How is it hold up now?
06 5.9 injector 1 one of the bolts came loose. 240,000
I have a 2004 with 270K.
Me i add fuel additives to every take of fuel due to today ultra low sulfur fuel sucks due to it doesnt have all the lubricity that diesel once had before they decided to take alot of the sulfur out. I use hotshot secret everyday diesel treatment and there diesel winter anti-gel additive to every fill up beacuse i like to know that my injectors and injector pump is getting the lubricity that it needs. yes it cost me about 19 dollars of EDT for a 16 ouce bottle and about 15 dollars for the winter anti gel 16 ouce bottle of it but is well worth it to me beacuse i am getting that lubricity.
375,000 miles injector dump fuel into oil crank case.
I replaced at 220,000 on 2006 ram
Atf for fuel treatment...I know it's a debate. Just curious your opinion.
Id say possibly yes on a 12 valve. No on 24 valves. I think it would be hard on the injection pump and injectors on the newer trucks even though it would improve lubricity. The ATF is not meant to burn and they design it to resist burning. It produces a lot of ash when burnt.
Hit 106k today took off from a stop sign blew white smoke and died
I wonder if that is actually a cp3 issue
My 07 21700 new injectors
I want a Cummins but they're too expensive to maintain
Delco
Sorry 2006 5.9