Just a follow up on installing my new injectors, the whole job took me about 6 hours, I took several breaks being 86 years old, I saved about $2500 doing myself it fired up on the third crank and is running great , no oil leaks, very happy I watched your video. I could not have tried it without your expertise, hope I get many more miles out of it, I tried to attach a video of me working on it..
Im in Alaska and despite some things being on par and even occasionally cheaper than lower 48 (3k tranny rebuild vs 6k in missouri) the average rate is $6500 for injectors, lines and rail....i can get all the parts for 2500. Im saying all this because your comment is reassuring lol. I can't justify spending 4k to pay someone lol
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it is very informing and takes the guess work (and stress for the first timers) out of the job. very easy to follow along.
The only problem that I have with you is that you’re living in Canada and not living next-door to me so that I can have you do work on my truck for me ha ha ha. You do great videos and have giving me a lot of good advice and I really appreciate you thank you.
Hey brotha, wanted to say thanks! I did an in the truck rebuild…hone, pistons rings, bearings, injectors, head work, etc. and I bet I came back to your video 20 times for advice and guidance! Badass video! I appreciate it! Keep on kicking ass!
I have a 2006 dodge ram 2500 5.9L Cummins and right now it sounds more like a tractor but without any power. I will be replacing all of my injectors in the next couple weeks. I'm ordering the injector kit with fuel tubes, fuel lines and gaskets. Very helpful video. hopefully all goes well.
Thank you for making this video, very good resource to use while I did injectors tonight on my 04.5 ram 3500. The sequence and order was easy to follow and I appreciate mostly the torque sequence/specs on the injectors/tubes. It made the job go quite smoothly tonight. Much appreciated!
Good video. A couple of things to note. When torqueing the injectors, after the initial 44 inch pounds back them off and go hand tight, torque the fuel supply tube to 11 foot pounds, final torque the injectors and then the fuel supply tubes. The injector has some room to rotate in the hold down. This allows the fuel supply tube to better center the injector. The other thing is do not bleed the high pressure common rail. It can be very dangerous and it is not necessary.
Yes, you skip the bleeding because the common rail fuel system is a self-bleeding system. So, no need to crack an injector line. Like original commenter stated, it can be very dangerous. These injectors, I believe, require a minimum 5,000 psi fuel pressure to pop off and you definitely don’t want that out and about.
Im about to do this on my 5.9 and previously I had a Ford 7.3 that wanted to hydrolock if you didnt clear the cylinder before putting in the new injector. Do I need to be wary of this with the cummins?
Great video, straight to the point and not a lot of rambling on senselessly about the truck’s history and how you’re feeling or any other bull crap like a lot of people do. Thanks!
These common rails are self bleeding. Cycle the key and let the lift pump run a few times and then crank. If it doesn't start, prime again. It might shutoff but do this cycle over until she runs good. You really don't want to manually bleed the rail for safety. Good luck
Yeah definitely not recommend to crack any high pressure line free. Karen Boot has it down. If you turn the key on you will get 2 or 3 seconds of run time but then you bump the starter and you will get 25 seconds of fuel pump run time. I do it like 4 or 5 times and the should lite up no problem! Goo video and appreciate you taking true time to do these vids.
Working on one right now and I’m used to the old VP 44s where you have to bleed each line spent 30 minutes trying to get the front lines to bleed because I could only get the back three to shoot diesel out but after watching this it makes sense because all the air is trapped in a common rail so you only need to crack one line to get the air out I feel kind of dumb but I’m glad I got it figured out
These people talking about stuff they have no idea what they're saying the lift pump in these are not electronic it is all mechanical besides the ECM the lift pump is mounted with the injector pump. It is gear-driven so which means it is only pulling the fuel up and delivering it to the fuel injector pump which overtakes for the lift pump and provides high pressure to the fuel rail so cycling the key multiple times does absolutely nothing to bleed this system now if you had a newer Cummins with a electric lift pump then this would be true.
Just did a set of stage 1 BBI injectors In my 2004.5 5.9 cummins and it was a pretty straight forward job , if I can do it in my home garage anyone with the will power and some brains can do this job
Awesome video! Thanks for doing this! Quick to the point yet can see what's needed. Perfect for me. I'm newer to the diesel world and slowly building up my 03 cummins. Couldn't really get all the details for injectors I needed. This perfect. Thanks again from Wisco!
remember in perpendicular its "pounds-inch/foot and for twisting force its foot-pounds. thank you for the spec. 44-89 and 11-37. easy for me to remember
Lol. I’m intimidated. Haven’t done these before on a diesel and I love my truck and don’t want to mess it up. I know I can do it but I’m intimidated as hell. Thanks for the step by step though.
Yeah.. gotta say.. really good and to the point!! The only other thing that I can think of is. While or just before hooking up the lines is possibly flushing// or at least inspection for fuel system contaminates. Just to insure nothing but healthy fuel hits those expensive injectors after all the fun of carefully turning wrenches !! Just a thought.
This video is awesome my local diesel mechanic retired and we didn’t want to take our work trucks to the dealership and my bosses said fix it lol so I called our old local guy he said to do everything in this video and I’ll be as good as him and I’ll be UA-cam diesel certified I’ve always worked on my own vehicle but work trucks are difficult because it used everyday for anything and everything one mistake of out of rocker on wrong it could be a bad day
Just wanna say thanks for making the video! Big help in my study on how to do this and I'll be keeping it on hand for reference 😂 my new injectors just came in tonight so I'll be doing them sometime this week 👍
Do you have to code them to the ecu? Been thinking about doing this but saw most people are saying to code them. Appreciate the help. Video is well explained on the labor
Asking for advice. I've got a 2005 Dodge, 5.9 Cummins. A year ago I was motoring at highway speeds, let off on the throttle on a hill and got the multi "bell warning dings" and the Wait to Start (WTS) light came on and stayed on. The truck runs fine though. The code that came in with the WTS light is P1222 which points to injectors. With 235K miles on it, I resigned to just replace all injectors. I did so with rebuilds from what I thought to be a reputable retailer. Once installed, along with new feed tubes and also new lines from the tube to common rail, the truck ran the same, starts fine, no noticeable black or white smoke, no loss of power, etc. But, the P1222 code and WTS light are still on. I retorqued all injectors, tubes and retaining nuts two separate times to just a little tighter than stock foot lbs. I performed 3 main troubleshooting tasks starting with the Relief Valve test which passed just fine. Then I tested the return flow from the CP3 which passed within the recommended return flow. Then, I tested the injector return flow (all injectors in place and uncapped). This test also passed with a recommended return flow of less than 180ml. Mine was right around 85-100ml. I tested this twice to make sure. Still, the WTS and P1222 code stay on and the truck runs just fine. I tried erasing the code with my Inova 5610 OBD reader but it will not remove the P1222 code. I also disconnected the batteries for about 2 weeks to see if it would remove the code to no avail. I've since replaced the Pressure Relief valve, Cascade Overflow Valve, MAP Sensor, Fuel Filter and Pressure Sensor. Mostly just to ensure they were not the issue. Still, the truck starts and runs fine. I am wondering "IF" taking it to someone who can "Flash" the computer to remove the P1222 code will only lead to it coming back in or if it is possibly just stuck in the computer and holding me up from using my truck. I don't drive it with all this going on for fear of burning a hole in my pistons. I'm at a loss for not knowing how to fix this truck at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Awesome video love all the detail for torquing everything down you added do you need to use a tuner after putting new injectors in. I’ll look forward watching more of you videos as well. 👍
Thank you for the video, will be doing this job with my brother in a few weeks. One question when you put the rockers back on this a need to do a valve adjustment? Thanks
In process of doing injectors on my 06 5.9. Bores looked clean so lubed injectors dropped in along with feed tubes and torqued with sequence. Should I take back out and scrub holes or leave it. Everything went together perfect
On your rocker arm bolts, did you reuse the factory bolts? I tried to reuse them and broke 2 off before they hit final torque. Not sure if that's my doing or if its because they are one time use bolt.
My 07 is hard starting after it gets to temp only and i try to start it up after 20+ minutes. Thinking it is the injectors? Pump is runningproperly with fuel pressure perfect. Great video bro. TY
You should definitely change that grid heater to a banks!! I've seen plenty of the grid heater nuts rot out, fall into engine and trashing it. The banks one will not allow this to happen. Just do some research and you will see exactly what I'm talking about, it can save you engine
Im having issues with the injector hold down bolts coming loose on a 4th gen. When I took them out 2 or 3 were loose on one side of the plate. I had to go back in due to a faulty injector after a few miles of driving around and found the same problem. Thought about spraying out the bolt holes and using a dab of thread lock. I did install them going back a and forth but it seems odd that some were loose when I went in the first time. thoughts?
Did you have to change the iqa for the new injectors? Or is that a 6.7 thing? Just changed my injectors last night/ this morning using this video! Super helpful but I seen some people talking about having to change the iqa after replacing injectors. I seen this because a check engine light came on after I replaced them and wasn’t sure why.
Any chance you could tell me what brand of headlights you have on your truck? Awesome looking truck by the way! Great video as well! Thanks in advance!
Followed your tutorial and replaced all of my injectors on my 06' Dodge 5.9 cummins... now it won't start. I'm sure I'm missing something. When I crack the injector line and crank the engine the fuel doesn't seem to build up pressure although I am getting some air bubbles where I cracked the injector line. Wondering if I'm having fuel pump issues. Any thoughts? Thanks
The cp3 pump is self bleeding.. serious injuries can be caused by cracking injection lines on a common rail diesel. 25,000psi fuel can cut your hand like a laser.
My husband has been trying to get them out of 2004 2500 he got 2 out but the others wont come out at all. He tried everything . Can you give us some advice on how to get them out..
Just curious if I would need to replace all injectors or if I’d be fine just replacing the one bad one? I’ve got a slight miss in mine and I have a feeling it’s one of the injectors
Never mentioned About Pressure on the fuel rail system to be careful Are telling how to relieve the pressure on the system before loosening the fuel lines
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL, SHOP MERCH HERE darkirondiesel.com
Just a follow up on installing my new injectors, the whole job took me about 6 hours, I took several breaks being 86 years old, I saved about $2500 doing myself it fired up on the third crank and is running great , no oil leaks, very happy I watched your video. I could not have tried it without your expertise, hope I get many more miles out of it, I tried to attach a video of me working on it..
That’s awesome! I’m glad you were able to do it yourself and save some money, thanks for the comment and good work 👍🏻
Im in Alaska and despite some things being on par and even occasionally cheaper than lower 48 (3k tranny rebuild vs 6k in missouri) the average rate is $6500 for injectors, lines and rail....i can get all the parts for 2500. Im saying all this because your comment is reassuring lol. I can't justify spending 4k to pay someone lol
Just finished the install on a friend's rv with 2007 5.9 your video was dead on ,Thank you for posting sailed right through it. Great Job !!!!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it is very informing and takes the guess work (and stress for the first timers) out of the job. very easy to follow along.
Thanks for the great video , I have decided to install new injectors myself, I have great confidence after watching your video seven times.
Haha you got it buddy! Take your time and you’ll be fine. Don’t force anything.
The only problem that I have with you is that you’re living in Canada and not living next-door to me so that I can have you do work on my truck for me ha ha ha. You do great videos and have giving me a lot of good advice and I really appreciate you thank you.
Dude, you’re my savior haha. You came out with this video the day before I decided to do my injectors. Super helpful!
Hey brotha, wanted to say thanks! I did an in the truck rebuild…hone, pistons rings, bearings, injectors, head work, etc. and I bet I came back to your video 20 times for advice and guidance! Badass video! I appreciate it! Keep on kicking ass!
Great video. Love those engines and how tough they are. I have a 2018 6.7L and will roll down my windows to listen to a 5.9L go down the road.
I got the same truck but I'm ready to straight pipe it
I have a 2006 dodge ram 2500 5.9L Cummins and right now it sounds more like a tractor but without any power. I will be replacing all of my injectors in the next couple weeks. I'm ordering the injector kit with fuel tubes, fuel lines and gaskets. Very helpful video. hopefully all goes well.
@@America-he5tzso did my grandpa
Man I think you have one of the best channels for Cummins, I’m fairly new to the 5.9 world (04 Ram) your channel has been aweosme
Thank you for making this video, very good resource to use while I did injectors tonight on my 04.5 ram 3500. The sequence and order was easy to follow and I appreciate mostly the torque sequence/specs on the injectors/tubes. It made the job go quite smoothly tonight. Much appreciated!
Good video. A couple of things to note. When torqueing the injectors, after the initial 44 inch pounds back them off and go hand tight, torque the fuel supply tube to 11 foot pounds, final torque the injectors and then the fuel supply tubes. The injector has some room to rotate in the hold down. This allows the fuel supply tube to better center the injector. The other thing is do not bleed the high pressure common rail. It can be very dangerous and it is not necessary.
So would you skip bleeding the fuel rail totally
@@chrisallen3741 yup
@@chrisallen3741 yeah that's what I always heard
Yes, you skip the bleeding because the common rail fuel system is a self-bleeding system. So, no need to crack an injector line. Like original commenter stated, it can be very dangerous. These injectors, I believe, require a minimum 5,000 psi fuel pressure to pop off and you definitely don’t want that out and about.
Im about to do this on my 5.9 and previously I had a Ford 7.3 that wanted to hydrolock if you didnt clear the cylinder before putting in the new injector. Do I need to be wary of this with the cummins?
Great video, straight to the point and not a lot of rambling on senselessly about the truck’s history and how you’re feeling or any other bull crap like a lot of people do. Thanks!
Thanks a million for the video, got my truck back on the road today. One happy camper . Cheers.
These common rails are self bleeding. Cycle the key and let the lift pump run a few times and then crank. If it doesn't start, prime again. It might shutoff but do this cycle over until she runs good. You really don't want to manually bleed the rail for safety. Good luck
Thank you! I’m new to diesels so comments like yours really help!
Yeah definitely not recommend to crack any high pressure line free. Karen Boot has it down. If you turn the key on you will get 2 or 3 seconds of run time but then you bump the starter and you will get 25 seconds of fuel pump run time. I do it like 4 or 5 times and the should lite up no problem! Goo video and appreciate you taking true time to do these vids.
@@chriscollison3136 Karen boot?
Working on one right now and I’m used to the old VP 44s where you have to bleed each line spent 30 minutes trying to get the front lines to bleed because I could only get the back three to shoot diesel out but after watching this it makes sense because all the air is trapped in a common rail so you only need to crack one line to get the air out I feel kind of dumb but I’m glad I got it figured out
These people talking about stuff they have no idea what they're saying the lift pump in these are not electronic it is all mechanical besides the ECM the lift pump is mounted with the injector pump. It is gear-driven so which means it is only pulling the fuel up and delivering it to the fuel injector pump which overtakes for the lift pump and provides high pressure to the fuel rail so cycling the key multiple times does absolutely nothing to bleed this system now if you had a newer Cummins with a electric lift pump then this would be true.
Very good and detailed. Thank you. I really appreciate you step-by-step explanation.
Just did a set of stage 1 BBI injectors In my 2004.5 5.9 cummins and it was a pretty straight forward job , if I can do it in my home garage anyone with the will power and some brains can do this job
How are they holding up? I am in the middle of an install and noticed the new bbi stage 0.1 are not oem bosch
I just found your channel. I love my old five common rail 5.9 Cummins thank you
I like this guy cuts all the crap out. gets to the piont ❤
Awesome video! Thanks for doing this! Quick to the point yet can see what's needed. Perfect for me. I'm newer to the diesel world and slowly building up my 03 cummins. Couldn't really get all the details for injectors I needed. This perfect. Thanks again from Wisco!
remember in perpendicular its "pounds-inch/foot and for twisting force its foot-pounds. thank you for the spec. 44-89 and 11-37. easy for me to remember
Lol. I’m intimidated. Haven’t done these before on a diesel and I love my truck and don’t want to mess it up. I know I can do it but I’m intimidated as hell. Thanks for the step by step though.
Great video, simple and easy to follow! Can't wait to do my injectors!
Thank you ! You made it easy truck now runs sweet again Thank you! Great tutorial.
Great video! I'll be changing mine very soon and this will definitely be helpful 👍🏼😎
I think I might have emailed you awhile ago about an ABS kill switch on my 19 ram classic. Very helpful video!
Excellent video. I don't even own a Cummings I own a LMM Duramax and I watched this until the end. Great job!
Cummings? Are you watching Cummins videos again?
Buying a 08 6.7 soon! Can't wait keep the videos coming!
That’s awesome buddy!
Yeah.. gotta say.. really good and to the point!! The only other thing that I can think of is. While or just before hooking up the lines is possibly flushing// or at least inspection for fuel system contaminates. Just to insure nothing but healthy fuel hits those expensive injectors after all the fun of carefully turning wrenches !! Just a thought.
Great video.
Just getting ready to swap my injectors for the first time and you can bet i'm gonna watch this while i do it.
Great explanation as you did the work. I feel I can take this task on thanks to you for the excellent video.
Your videos are great. BD Diesel should pay you.
This video is awesome my local diesel mechanic retired and we didn’t want to take our work trucks to the dealership and my bosses said fix it lol so I called our old local guy he said to do everything in this video and I’ll be as good as him and I’ll be UA-cam diesel certified I’ve always worked on my own vehicle but work trucks are difficult because it used everyday for anything and everything one mistake of out of rocker on wrong it could be a bad day
Thank you for this video… I did my truck yesterday and your video was the most helpful… Also where did you get that grill cover, I want one!!
I just did mine. Thank you for the detailed video🎉
Just wanna say thanks for making the video! Big help in my study on how to do this and I'll be keeping it on hand for reference 😂 my new injectors just came in tonight so I'll be doing them sometime this week 👍
Do you have to code them to the ecu? Been thinking about doing this but saw most people are saying to code them. Appreciate the help. Video is well explained on the labor
Asking for advice. I've got a 2005 Dodge, 5.9 Cummins. A year ago I was motoring at highway speeds, let off on the throttle on a hill and got the multi "bell warning dings" and the Wait to Start (WTS) light came on and stayed on. The truck runs fine though. The code that came in with the WTS light is P1222 which points to injectors. With 235K miles on it, I resigned to just replace all injectors. I did so with rebuilds from what I thought to be a reputable retailer. Once installed, along with new feed tubes and also new lines from the tube to common rail, the truck ran the same, starts fine, no noticeable black or white smoke, no loss of power, etc. But, the P1222 code and WTS light are still on. I retorqued all injectors, tubes and retaining nuts two separate times to just a little tighter than stock foot lbs. I performed 3 main troubleshooting tasks starting with the Relief Valve test which passed just fine. Then I tested the return flow from the CP3 which passed within the recommended return flow. Then, I tested the injector return flow (all injectors in place and uncapped). This test also passed with a recommended return flow of less than 180ml. Mine was right around 85-100ml. I tested this twice to make sure. Still, the WTS and P1222 code stay on and the truck runs just fine. I tried erasing the code with my Inova 5610 OBD reader but it will not remove the P1222 code. I also disconnected the batteries for about 2 weeks to see if it would remove the code to no avail. I've since replaced the Pressure Relief valve, Cascade Overflow Valve, MAP Sensor, Fuel Filter and Pressure Sensor. Mostly just to ensure they were not the issue. Still, the truck starts and runs fine. I am wondering "IF" taking it to someone who can "Flash" the computer to remove the P1222 code will only lead to it coming back in or if it is possibly just stuck in the computer and holding me up from using my truck. I don't drive it with all this going on for fear of burning a hole in my pistons. I'm at a loss for not knowing how to fix this truck at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Thank you! Great video! Really helped me out!
Great video, I have to do my injectors soon. This definitely helps.
Love the videos! Waiting on that cp3 install video!
Woow great information thanks now I can do it my self
Great video informative laid it out quite simple looking forward to doing my injectors on my 2006 Cummins keep up the great videos thanks buddy👍
Good video!!!
Keep up the good work man
Trucks looking awesome!!!
Appreciate it 👊🏻
Awesome video love all the detail for torquing everything down you added do you need to use a tuner after putting new injectors in. I’ll look forward watching more of you videos as well. 👍
Made it look easy 🙌
Excellent video. Thank you..
Thank you for the video, will be doing this job with my brother in a few weeks. One question when you put the rockers back on this a need to do a valve adjustment? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Great job super helpful.
Very good video. Awesome job.
Thank you for the video Dark Iron Diesel!
On the #3 injector tube nut. How do you torque it? That electrical plug is causing me some grief.
In process of doing injectors on my 06 5.9. Bores looked clean so lubed injectors dropped in along with feed tubes and torqued with sequence. Should I take back out and scrub holes or leave it. Everything went together perfect
Question though I need to do injectors and that you had to have it set at dead center before moving rockers
Awesome video I love how you did the edits and didn't waste time showing all the work cheers bud
Love the vids man lookin to buy a 2 owner 3g soon and very down to earth honest video
On your rocker arm bolts, did you reuse the factory bolts? I tried to reuse them and broke 2 off before they hit final torque. Not sure if that's my doing or if its because they are one time use bolt.
SMOOOOOOOOTH! Great video. Thank you.
Love the videos dude!
My 07 is hard starting after it gets to temp only and i try to start it up after 20+ minutes. Thinking it is the injectors? Pump is runningproperly with fuel pressure perfect. Great video bro. TY
When you increase the injector output (like 30% over stock) is there any computor reprograming necessary?
Is it recommended to change your oil after changing injectors?
Great video Thank you for sharing
You should definitely change that grid heater to a banks!! I've seen plenty of the grid heater nuts rot out, fall into engine and trashing it. The banks one will not allow this to happen. Just do some research and you will see exactly what I'm talking about, it can save you engine
The banks grid heaters are garbage and don’t work in our climate. What I’m going to do is the BD Diesel killer grid heater upgrade kit.
thats a 6.7 problem. not a 5.9
Do you have a video to adjust the valves on. 07 ram 2500 5.9L ? Mine has a little knocking. Thank you in advance. Billy.
Good Job, explained well!
And you can reuse injector tubs a couple of times if you want too if you use Bosch oem injectors match
Thanks man grest video
What headlights are those. They look good
Did you use 6.7 feed tubes ?
I just ordered the ones that they recommend with the injectors from bd diesel
Im having issues with the injector hold down bolts coming loose on a 4th gen. When I took them out 2 or 3 were loose on one side of the plate. I had to go back in due to a faulty injector after a few miles of driving around and found the same problem. Thought about spraying out the bolt holes and using a dab of thread lock. I did install them going back a and forth but it seems odd that some were loose when I went in the first time.
thoughts?
What exhaust do you have? And is that an aftermarket turbo?
Did you have to change the iqa for the new injectors? Or is that a 6.7 thing? Just changed my injectors last night/ this morning using this video! Super helpful but I seen some people talking about having to change the iqa after replacing injectors. I seen this because a check engine light came on after I replaced them and wasn’t sure why.
Like program trim codes? Is that what you’re talking about? I think that’s just a 6.7 and newer thing.
@@darkirondieselyes that’s it! Ok thanks man
I think I need to replace a fuel injector in my 2004 2500 Cummins. Do I need to replace just the one or all of them?
so can I crank the engine with the rockers, injectors, and push rods out to get the fluid out of the cylinders?
Any chance you could tell me what brand of headlights you have on your truck? Awesome looking truck by the way! Great video as well!
Thanks in advance!
Spyder
@@darkirondiesel are you happy with the headlights?
Nice video. !! That information helps me a lot
could you mike a video ..of how to install the fas pomp ..!! Thanks
Thank you for explaining that
Where is the best place to buy parts. Last time I worked on a Cummins I couldn't get any service from a Cummins dealer.
How many miles are on the truck that you already did the head gasket?
did everything like you did cant get pressure any tips?
Thanks Excellent video
Petroleum Jelly is not good for o-rings it will cause them to swell, use Parker O-ring lube or white lithium grease
Followed your tutorial and replaced all of my injectors on my 06' Dodge 5.9 cummins... now it won't start. I'm sure I'm missing something. When I crack the injector line and crank the engine the fuel doesn't seem to build up pressure although I am getting some air bubbles where I cracked the injector line. Wondering if I'm having fuel pump issues. Any thoughts? Thanks
The cp3 pump is self bleeding.. serious injuries can be caused by cracking injection lines on a common rail diesel. 25,000psi fuel can cut your hand like a laser.
Yeah I wouldn't bother trying to do it because you also lose prime if you try to do it alone
@@wizard_of_poz4413😊😅😅😅😊
All the injector for 5.9L diesel they are the same?
Where do I find the new injector tubes?
Thanks man, great video
My husband has been trying to get them out of 2004 2500 he got 2 out but the others wont come out at all. He tried everything . Can you give us some advice on how to get them out..
Just curious if I would need to replace all injectors or if I’d be fine just replacing the one bad one? I’ve got a slight miss in mine and I have a feeling it’s one of the injectors
How do you know which one is bad?
I think one of my injectors are stuck open but I'm 4hrs away from home is it ok to keep driving like that Hope you can help thank you
Very helpful thank you
Valve lash adjustment?
400 thousand k i stil have the same injectors it came with. And it still starts and pulls good. But i use a fuel lube mainly powersaw 2 cycle mix oil
300,000km on these injectors and they were still fine. Only reason for the change was needing the extra power to spool the bigger turbo!
You should try Flux injectors they have a 7yr warranty on there injectors
Great Video Brother Thanks !
Never mentioned About Pressure on the fuel rail system to be careful Are telling how to relieve the pressure on the system before loosening the fuel lines
How do you know/ when should you change injectors?
Mine was cutting off as soon as I slowed down at a red light.
Will this fix the knocking sound?
What is the torque spec on the injector feed tube nut ?