Chainsaw carving face features beginner tips wizard wood spirit
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2020
- Here we focus on just the general features to make a successfull carving of a wood spirit face. We stay away from worrying about head shape or proportion, for now let's just have fun and learn how to carve a face.
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Awesome
Awesome video. Thank you sir 👍
Very expressive face , very much enjoyed, thank you
Mate thanks heaps for making that there is Viotti much out there for chainsaw carving tutorials i let alone much with any valuable content however after watching yours I can say I got a lot out of it and will definitely use as a reference again.
great video learned a lot.
Great tutorial...very nice work!
Man I really like your videos they're really good and some of my favorites thanks for your time and effort
wow . faces have always kinda came easy for me but as a still learning self taught carver/artist you sure are helpful for lowering the steep on the learning curve . After viewing this video my faces are going to come up a notch . Thank you for sharing . Have a great weekend .
Since I'm not much of an artist, just more a builder and maker of things, I can step back and break things down. I am one of the least inspired creators, but one of the most intrigued, if that makes any sense.
carving stories : makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reply .
a very informative tutorial. More Power to you!
Very helpful thanks for your time and great work 👍
EXELENT vid thank you,please keep the coming
Most youtubers are freaked out by some little smidgen of wind background noise...bro isn't even worried about a train going by...lol! 😆
Good tips man! I'm a chisel and gouge carver...I need to grab my climbing/limbing saw and try some of this.
Between a Stihl 170, or a Husqvarna pro climbers saw which you think would be the saw to do all of this?
Both good saws for carving... t handles work good with 10" or smaller carving bar... most dont like them but i do... i have a 200t im rebuilding works nice with a 10" dime bar... 170 are easy to convert to 1/4 pitch and are fine for learning with but once i got into the 025-021 i realized the massive difference in power control and tank time...
@@badasswood Gotcha...thanks for the reply. I thought one big positive with the Husqvarna was the weight...7 lbs I think. Mine has a 12 inch bar, so I'd need to shorten that up, but I'm gonna give it a whirl, (with the 12" for now) and see how it goes.
Cool deal... some people like 12" on t handle...
Thanks for this it was very informative and broke carving the forbidding face into manageable chunks . Great stuff look forward to the next one😀
Break it down. That's my art, probably why I never sold much of it! Lol!!!
Complimenti, Bravo mi e
Great video
Nice Video's Matt
That is great, am starting with wood faces and it helps me a lot. Thanks bro
Thank you, I try to always keep things very simple!
Check out my "off the chain" series, super fun, easy, big project, any one can do!
Carving is so amazing . You are so super talented it’s unbelievable!!
I’m a beginner Carver trying to do tree spirit carvings . Having some difficulty so far. Not giving up tho. Any recommendations on what type of wood is good to practice on and or what type of Dremel bits are recommended for this type of work? Any advice would be greatly appreciated .
Best thing to do is chase down a tree removal company,get some pine, cherry, or willow from their junk piles... I only use burrs in any rotary tools, like dremel, or bigger. I show some in other videos, but havent had time to make dremel videos yet. I mostly use what's called a flame burr, or pencil burr. I buy saburr burr bits, but theres another good brand called kutzall. For practicing, and learning, its best to use soft woods, that have fairly tight grain. Iether very fresh"green", or well cured, so the grain stays tight. Developing some chisel skills can help with understanding wood, and how it cuts. I'd reccomend investing in a few chisels, I learned with a hatchet, and chisel, then progressed to using chainsaws, and power carving tools. Now you have me working on the video! Lol... stay tuned, I have been going back to the basics, making videos on things I learned in the beginning.
Love how you just used the chainsaw, what does it usually go for
i dont usually sell these, they go in auction, just sometjing fun i mostly do for demonstration purposes. thanks for watching!😁😁
Dude. Thank you for this. Fantastic face/eye tutorial! Great info, well presented. Sub'd and watched till the end.
Thank you so much, many more on the way, just hard finding time to edit and publish, hopefully July will be more video time!😁😁
Subbed back, great channel man!
@@badasswood Thanks!
Enjoying your sharing on carving tips and I found it very useful information. Thanks you on your effort. Don't mind I ask you how come you are using 2 different chainsaws with the same carving bar setup ? Any purposes ?
Thank you for watching. As far as saws and set up, I have similar set up, but no two are the same, each set up i use is pretty specific to the saw that its on, not that it helps me carve better, its just how I set them up,to get the most comfort, and vest feel out of that saw...they may look the same, but all the ones shown in this video are different from one another.different in bar and. Chain length, chain pitch, width of chain, called Guage.... you can have the same set up on every saw, nothin wrong with that, especially with gas saws, because we stop to refill so much... with electrics, every one has different power, and weight, so different set up work better with the electrics
@@badasswood Thanks for your kind reply :) what is the gauge you prefer like 0.043 or 0.050 and some carvers like 0.050 to prevent chain snap :(
I like your honest video sharing tips and do you consider using the top handle if given a chance to compare the rear handle like most carvers used to :)
I worry less about chain snapping. Than I do drive links mushrooming, or rivet straps binding... lighter chains will bind,and mushroom under more tourque...
I like the .043 1/4 pitch for lightning fast, straight cutting, its cool for super detail, if you get it on a bar set up for super high detail,but unless modified a bit, the tiny chain loves to cut straight, like very fast, dives right in, has no skate or float... so for general carving I like good old semi chisel, or full chisel .050 1/4 pitch , dime tip,, for detail saws, anything under 12"... fir me,anything over 12" 1/4 pitch chain is too light, tends to hammer, swim in the kerf too much, and hammer on the bar and sprocket, from too much demand...3/8 .043 for all around anything 12" or longer,off a quarter tip... or my all around favorite, cannon 14"-16" quarter tip, .325 , .050, for daily, general use,rough outs and blocks, facial features,some times thats all ill run all day off the 026 pro, or one of the 025 gassers... I like torque, with capacity, and smooth... with smaller chain,smaller bar tips capacity falls off at a 30%-50% increase of loss as each aspect get smaller by 20%, or less...when I carve capacity , flow, and production is everything to me, detail comes easier, and later if shape, and pacing is on task... its easy to let your saws get you down and feel like you aren't doing well... its very easy to get a wrong set up,thats why I say its less about what type of chain I prefer, than what type of set up I prefer... the trick is to make it so you don't have to decide, I have spent countless amounts of money on boxes, and buckets full of chain,and I cut and repair my own chains, I only go to the ship to get more chain that I don't have, or parts that I don't have... mostly what I prefer is old stuff you can't get any more unless you find a shop that has it, like the pf , 25 ap line industry 1/4 pitch chain that they used on all their hydro pole saws back in the day... that stuff is just wicked, and in ample supply here,there's nothing like it on the market any more... all the chain now is flimsy, poorly made crap,even the higher end chains, nothing like what used to be basic pro chain... the saw industry is one of those that had a really good thing going, and then wasted it , in lieu of making more sales, and bigger profits, in my opinion, theres very little good in the new stuff, its all throwaway, they make chain crappy, so you buy more, bars the same, I remember when a pro bar was a heavier bar, now they're actually lighter...lol...
As far as rear handle versus top, its all set up,when my 200t is together, I love runnin that thing with the stihl 10" solid bar I have, .050 Guage, 1/4pitch... any top.handle that runs well,can be great for carving, with the right bar and chain on it... this is where I will say,the more rare,and the more you spend on a holy grail saw, the better,they are rare, and sought after for a reason...the handling, balance, and balance on the motor is superb in the 200t,or like the old red max g3200, certain saws were designed around carving...theres a lot if them.out now,like the echos,designed around carving, both husqui and stihl continue to take stabs or feeble attempts at it, yet neither will ever listen to a carver, and say, "ya know what, if we could make the ms 200+200t again,exactly like we did back then,every one would want one...lol...now that husqui owns red max,if they were smart they'd buy the designs, and mold patents from Komatsu zenoa, and start making the g3200 again, it was such a small,light, smooth running saw, but had lots of power, and torque,problem was crappy oiler design,and really chinsey air filter , shrouds, and mounts... they all sucked in mass amounts of fine dust, and plastic parts would just fly off them when the plastic heat stretched, or wore out... the case, and motor though,sweetest thing I've ever owned, as far as techy, and balanced...
👍🏻
Hey my friend, are you using a 1/4 " sprocket and chain? If so, what sprocket did that Makita come with. I want to get that same set up. Thank you
No 3/8 .043 pmm
@@badasswood Are you referring to the Makita? That's the one I wanted to know about. What is the sprocket size and chain size. Sorry to bother you but I just wanted to know the setup you have for the corded Makita with the dime tip bar that you are using. I just want to be sure that I have the proper set up. Thanks I really appreciate the info
Makita uc 4025, 3/8 .043, ultra low profile still chain, theres no 1/4 pitch available for those, I figured out a conversion for that hub, but its pretty difficult to do, I made one for my uc400, took a bit if time, and effort. The still 180 mse is the orange and white saw, I got a 1/4 pitch for an e 10 off ebay, and machined it down to fit the stack height on the 180 shaft...the makitas run great with 3/8 .043 ultra low profile, but I'd suggest getting a cannon bar, theyre much better than the Oregon bars...I dont like the light weight bars, I only buy them if they're cheap, to try them out. Heavier stiffer bar stays in the wood better, cuts very smooth...I'd go with a 10" or 8", buy the chain at a local still dealer, have them fit it to your saw. There's no corded makita carving kit, only in the battery saws can you get a kit with 1/4 pitch. I'm glad to help, any questions are welcome. I talk about my saws in many videos, its kind of confusing, most of my set up are custom, and not ones you can just buy, unfortunately... I'm working in making more 1/4 hubs for the makita uc saws, like I have, just haven't had a lot of time to mess with it lately, its a pretty involved process which requires a heavy bench vise, and a good set of other tools, once you pop the retainer clip off the hub, the clutch plates want to shoot across the room, and you don't want to loose them...lol... besides that, turning down the spline to accept a rim sprocket is a bit of a task, but its very possible, just takes a lot if set up.
The stihl conversion is very simple to do once you have the 1/4 pitch sprocket, takes a bit if shaving it down carefully, slides on the shaft, and a clip ring holds it on...
The 3/8 .043 stihl chain is pretty close to 1/4 pitch in feel, and maneuverability, only hinky part is strap length, it can hammer a bit on a tight dime tip bar, if the fit isn't good...runs a bit rough on some dime tip bars...unfortunately I never got into building custom fit saws, maybe I should though, I've thought about it... especially as electrics become more popular...
Great work and useful tips!I have been using a chainsaw since I was 13 but I have just started carving - doing tiki heads. How do you progress from tikis to actual carvings? You can see my beginner’s work on my Constance Bay Palms channel.
If you're doin tiki, you can do anything else carving wise, tiki are a base for fundamentals... many people just watch videos, and learn that way, I have videos on hands,skulls, owls and bears, and tryin to get others done on other subjects, just haven't had a lot of time for it in the past year, I have many videos on saw handling, and control, to me, thats the basis of my carving, I can carve anything if I have crazy amounts of control..., then the carving becomes a 3d maze, or puzzle to me, so it becomes easier to visualize what I'm trying to do...
I checked some of your videos out, you're doing great, it just takes time, practice, and immersion... I see, I think, I draw sculpture, all the time, I'm not the artistic type, but I am a sculptor, or builder of shape, if that makes sense...
Beautiful woodcarving. Great information and well explained and demonstrated. What make of electric hacksaw is that.
Could you do something on the bear figures you had in the background.
Tons of bear videos in my channel
Still 180 mse, and makita uc 4025
Enjoyed this video. I'm about to add a carving chainsaw to my tools been trying to workout petrol or electric. Never used electric but would let me use it in my shop. Can I ask you 2 questions. 1. Are the electric saw light ans easy to handle? 2. Can you explain the sizing, 1/4 or 1/8 tip???? Thanks. Hugo Dale from N. Ireland.
Quarter tip, dime tip, refer to the size of bar tip, the American quarter of a dollar, and ten cent, or dime ... one tip is about a fat thumb, or big toe, the other is around index or ring finger tip sized... elecs are light, often too light for bars longer than 12", not in power, but in balance. Heavier bars work fine, but a lighter bar on a carving saw will bounce around a bit, unless the saw is actually balanced out for longer lighter bars... roller tip bars all usually work fine until you get into the cheaper saws, then they begin acting a bit bouncy, without a lot chain tuning,,, I've had good luck using the super narrow 1/4 pitch chain with a stock bar, on a saw fitted for quarter pitch... now chain pitch, and bar tip are two different things, saw chain is like any other type of chain, in general, there's a pitch to the spacing between the drive sprocket teeth, which accommodates a certain pitch of chain... 3 common chain pitches for chainsaws we use are 1/4" pitch, 3/8" pitch, .325(close to 5/16")... there is two actual sizes of chain in 3/8", low profile, and large, or 72... both sizes of 3/8" will run on any sprocket, but now it's a matter of getting into bar, and saw accomodation... larger chain will bind up, and not even fit in some saws designed for smaller chain... same goes for larger saws with smaller chain, I've run smaller chain pitches on bigger saws, and in every case I've needed to modify the bar, or the saw to accommodate for the smaller gauge of chain... lol... so there's the last bit of basic info to know, chain gauge, or width, there are two standard gauges,. 050, and .043... there are o.s. gauges as well, .068, .072, and upwards, and there's another chain pitch very uncommon in today's saws, but prevalent in older saws .404 ... there's a lot to know, but knowing that you need matching chain gauge, to matching bar thickness, you need the oiler on the saw to line up with the oil passage holes on the bar, and you need the proper sized slot to accommodate the bar desired, those are basics that every one should know, and try learning... I have other videos that explain all this, either in part, or in full in each... it's a lot of information, and not real easy to cover in just one, or in 20 videos, I still am trying to make that one simple 20 minute or less video that gives the basics, and answers every question a beginner may ask, but there's always those questions that I dont think about as answering till after they're asked...😅 from what I've discovered after years of doing this is every one looks at chainsaws differently, so it's tough to have one easy to understand approach, that still allows for room to discover and understand it all in our own way, but I'm gettin there...
Wauu
Verry good vid man
I learnt more from this one than the last 15 vids i seen from other peeps
I can see how u move and hold the saw
And after seeing this one i need a carving bar asap lols
Do u know if i can run a 3/8 lp chain in a 1/4 carving bar ?
I got to many 3/8 lp chains to make the switch to 1/4 or is there a big difference between the 1/4 and 3/8 lp chain ?
I cut the backs of the 3/8 chain but it still wants to jump around instead of cutting good
I use the PMN 3 I believe it's called, pico micro narrow, .043, gauge, ultra low profile 3/8! It's really sweet stuff, I made a video on it a while back...
1/4 pitch and 3/8 are completely different in character, and how they run on a bar... but the pmn 3 is super smooth, compared to standard 3/8 lp... 1/4 pitch is a whole different realm... it's the way to go for dinlme and smaller tips, and on electrics, mostly simply for the weight difference, it instantly increases rpms, and torque advantage,, especially when you go to the .043 ...but then theres the too much saw, for too little chain issue, mushroomed drivers will destroy a good carving bar in no time... so it's all a balance.
Hey man I bought the same saw and could not get it to cut anything. It was so rough. Straight down through grain it was okay but any thing else it would just shit the bed. I made sure I used an efficient cord too. I don’t know how you get it to cut so well. Had a brand new chain too
Hammering, or bouncing can be caused by many things...too long of a bar, safety chain, or non meshing bar and chain combo, even bound up chain straps, mushroomed drivers, too much gullet, overly trimmed rakes, are just a few things that can cause an Imbalance in the system...What bar and chain are on it? Chain type, length of bar, brand of bar and chain, chain pitch, and gauge?is the bar brand new, if not, do you keep it dressed and keep the groove depth checked? Having the right set up makes all the difference with light weight electrics... having the wrong set up will make it bounce around...other questions, is it factory sharp? Or did you sharpen it by hand, did you trim the rakers at all, or try modifying the chain any? All these things play a role, especially with light weight direct drive saws...lastly is the saw oiling well, is it passing oil well through the bar, consistently?
Watch my bar and chain videos to see how I tune chains, and how I look at them... there's a lot to explain...
@@badasswood thanks for the response man will watch the video. Im convinced the saw was messed up. Its also spraying oil everywhere. Reservoir runs out within 5 minutes. I put my bar on a bigger gas saw using 325 chain and cuts like butter.
The saw and bar combo I was using specificslly was:
Stihl 141mse. 1/4pitch sprocket
Canon 12” quarter tip. With stihl 1/4pitch carving chain. .50 gauge. Everything was brand new. Performered terribly.
While I got you here I have one other question. If I may. On some of my pole sAws this happens. Today just happend on one of my bigger gas saws while buckings logs.
The chain throws off the bar. When I go to put chain back on bar it doesnt fit. Some drive link teeth are chipped. Have to file them down. Get it to run along bar smoothie but then the chain is never the same. Hops off the bar consistently after the first time.
@@Koailo88 bars and chains will hammer in lighter eoectric saws, especially if theyre too large for the torque band of that saw... pissing oil,sounds like a disconnected feed line... if its not leaking while sitting, its some where in the gear case, past the oil pump. if it pours out whether saw is running, or not, its disconnected before the oil pump. ive had set ups where oil bypasses the bar, and leaks all over my feet, and the floor, but that was mismatched bar passage to oiler port on the body of the saw, didnt run out in 5 minutes, but did flow out like a faucet...
Hey man I have the same little electric stihl and canon bar. It’s spitting bar oil and doesn’t cut very well. Any tips? Maybe my extension cord isn’t strong enough? Also what’s your chain tension like.
Run chain so you can at least fit a coin between it and the bar. Spitting oil, as in a lot of oil, or very little? Usually irregular piling is from dirty bar groove, use hacksaw blade, or putty knife to clean the groove, I show that in a few videos...if saw isn't cutting well it's most likely the chain, chain could be dull, straps or drive links could be burred, causing it to ride, and push the nose of the cutters down, cutters could be dull, angle of teeth could be off , teeth could be chipped, there's so many variables, hard to say what it could be... look me up on f.b. message me, home page mark Watson, earthen elements llc, or carving stories...I use message to help people as my go to method, its e as y there because we can send pictures back and forth, and respond more easily to questions.
What type of wood do you use for carving? Is hardwood suitable?
I use pine, primarily, I explain in several videos. Hard woods are fine, any wood will do if you're learning. The best way to know what's best is try carving, and get different woods. Every one has their favorites. My personal favorites are pine, cherry, oak, and willow, but I'll carve just about anything, for the right price. I choose pine, and spruce e because they are readily available, and very easy to work with, allowing for ease if production, and the light weight of dried pine makes shipping and handling carvings cheaper, and less likely to break.
@@badasswood thanks for the detailed response.
Where did you get your carving Bar for your Stihl 140 Electric
bear necessities, bob king has them
How much do you charge for something like that
Good question, don't sell these normally...lol...
I love doing and displaying chainsaw art but I don’t know how you guys can deal with the noise of a petrol engine while crafting. I use all electric and it’s much easier on my nerves! I’m a bit older than you are so maybe that has something to do with it!
I mostly us electric , whenever I can, check out my other videos, I was shunned in the carving world for many years strictly based on my use of electrics, long before it was a popular thing...lol... often when using gas saws, I put music in my ears,so I don't har the motor. I work around noisy machinery, chippers. Trucks, and gas saws most of the time, often I go to the shop put music in and carve a bit just to undo all that nerve rattling noise all day out in the heat...thanks for viewing!
I've been carving over 20 years now, older than I look, if you watch more of this video, I retreat into the shop to finish most of it with using electrics.