I appreciate your videos! I've used them to get a Guard Army started = finished two RD's while home sick this weekend. Also, if you're an Army vet like I think you are - thanks for that too! I'm an Army/Air Force vet myself, so the Guard appeals to me!
Really great in-depth guide. Not sure I have the patience or energy to go to that level of detail but it's perfect for picking and choosing what I want to use, great work!
My only criticism is painting the tracks and tools metallics. Historically tracks are darkened steel and the tools are the color of the tank, so as to not create reflections. But great video overall.
I try to go for a balance between "historical / realism" and 'eavy Metal style. I do want some elements to pop more than others. I have seen a few more super realistic styles that do work really well for 40k models though.
I love how all your tanks look, i think they look better than the box! Im planning on painting my cadians like they are in the desert, are there any changes i Should make?
Good video. I come from the more traditional style of military model building. However, ‘eavy metal style is always a fun way to see different means and methods on how to achieve the same goal. Painting a model or figure. The methods are different in some regards and yet they aren’t. I have found it useful to pull techniques and methods from both aspects of the hobby. Definitely have used things I’ve learned from painting wh40k minis into my normal painting of military figures. A few suggestions on your decal application. You apply a gloss clear coat after applying the decal. To seal it in. Traditional decal application you apply the gloss clear coat before to create a slick surface to allow air to escape from underneath the decal. Prevent the translucent film from having the silvering effect because micro air bubbles have formed underneath the decal. Apply micro set, decal, microsol, and then seal it up with a flat or gloss clear coat(which ever sheen you want). I prefer flat, especially if I’m going to be weathering and using pigments. The flat surface is rough and really allows dry brushing and use of pigments to really grab onto it. I always apply decals before I do any sort of weathering on the model. This prevents the decals from being applied over dirt and allows you to dirty or distress everything evenly. Again, how you did it turned out fine. Looks good in the end. Something you might try. I also use a rattle can of clear coat. More even then using a brush and I don’t have to worry about a clear coat gumming up my airbrush. Notoriously a pain in the butt to clean. I use Mr. Hobby Mr. super clear gloss and matte. Just quickly gloss clear coat the model, apply decals as described, when it’s all dry seal it up with a flat clear. Another method that is not traditionally how decals are done. I learned this 6 months ago. Blew my mind. It works. Skip the clear coat, just apply your microsol. That’s the decal softener that is the strongest. That’s what causes it the decal to really suck down on the surface, right? Well that pushes all off the air out too and eliminates silvering as well. Just seal over the top with a flat clear coat. Done. If you’re going to seal over with flat clear anyway, there is no need to use a gloss clear coat. The clear coats both do the same thing. Seal up the decals and will hide the translucent edge of the decal film too. Regardless your tanks turned out great. Just a few things you might try with your decals. Honestly the traditional method is what most modelers will preach, but you’ve been doing what I described as described as the non traditional method already. I wouldn’t bother adding the clear coat before hand. Though, now you can tell people why they should do that to prevent decal silvering as well. Also, try just using a flat clear coat to seal up your decals. Remember if you use a rattle can. Use something formulated for models. Light coats and build up the finish or else you’ll find that too much clear coat will eat up your decals. You’ll appreciate the extra flat surface to help with your weathering. Either way good video and tanks!
This and the magnetizing vid were extremely helpful as I just picked up my first dorn and it was daunting at first glance. Have you considered using silly putty for blocking out camo patterns?
@@CadianSergeantSteel thanks for the reply. A lot of modelling companies now sell "modelling putty" which is a lot more expensive than blu tack. I haven't used it so don't know if there is any advantage. I looked at the cost (in the UK) of fun tack and this seems mid way between blu tack and putty so was assuming it was different again.....?
Might be. I found out whatever I buy works so I just refuse to buy anything different 😅 but you're probably right and that it is just repackaging of the same product selling for higher or lower profit to different demographics.
I appreciate your videos! I've used them to get a Guard Army started = finished two RD's while home sick this weekend. Also, if you're an Army vet like I think you are - thanks for that too! I'm an Army/Air Force vet myself, so the Guard appeals to me!
Thanks for those compliments and the support! It means a lot. Glad the videos have been helpful and even inspiring.
Really great in-depth guide. Not sure I have the patience or energy to go to that level of detail but it's perfect for picking and choosing what I want to use, great work!
Thank you so much 😃
Really nice video tutorial, thank you for taking the time to show us all the process in such details.
Glad it was helpful! 😃 and thank you so much for watching!
Hey Sergeant! I just finished painting my very first Rogal Dorn, just wanted to thank you for the help and inspiration!
Amazing guide mate! Really clear for a newbie like me, so now I know how to paint my Rogal Dorn and Leman Russess! Cadia stands!
My only criticism is painting the tracks and tools metallics. Historically tracks are darkened steel and the tools are the color of the tank, so as to not create reflections. But great video overall.
I try to go for a balance between "historical / realism" and 'eavy Metal style. I do want some elements to pop more than others. I have seen a few more super realistic styles that do work really well for 40k models though.
@@CadianSergeantSteel Thats totally fair. Kinda reminds me of the old "Realistic Marines" meme from back in the day.
I'm speechless, awesome job
Thank you!
Stunning work! Looks gorgeous and yet approchable.
Thank you very much!
I love how all your tanks look, i think they look better than the box! Im planning on painting my cadians like they are in the desert, are there any changes i Should make?
Awesome tutorial. I am a big fan of your work. Congratulations.!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much 😃 that super nice of you to say
Good video. I come from the more traditional style of military model building. However, ‘eavy metal style is always a fun way to see different means and methods on how to achieve the same goal. Painting a model or figure. The methods are different in some regards and yet they aren’t. I have found it useful to pull techniques and methods from both aspects of the hobby. Definitely have used things I’ve learned from painting wh40k minis into my normal painting of military figures.
A few suggestions on your decal application. You apply a gloss clear coat after applying the decal. To seal it in. Traditional decal application you apply the gloss clear coat before to create a slick surface to allow air to escape from underneath the decal. Prevent the translucent film from having the silvering effect because micro air bubbles have formed underneath the decal. Apply micro set, decal, microsol, and then seal it up with a flat or gloss clear coat(which ever sheen you want). I prefer flat, especially if I’m going to be weathering and using pigments. The flat surface is rough and really allows dry brushing and use of pigments to really grab onto it. I always apply decals before I do any sort of weathering on the model. This prevents the decals from being applied over dirt and allows you to dirty or distress everything evenly. Again, how you did it turned out fine. Looks good in the end. Something you might try. I also use a rattle can of clear coat. More even then using a brush and I don’t have to worry about a clear coat gumming up my airbrush. Notoriously a pain in the butt to clean. I use Mr. Hobby Mr. super clear gloss and matte. Just quickly gloss clear coat the model, apply decals as described, when it’s all dry seal it up with a flat clear.
Another method that is not traditionally how decals are done. I learned this 6 months ago. Blew my mind. It works. Skip the clear coat, just apply your microsol. That’s the decal softener that is the strongest. That’s what causes it the decal to really suck down on the surface, right? Well that pushes all off the air out too and eliminates silvering as well. Just seal over the top with a flat clear coat. Done. If you’re going to seal over with flat clear anyway, there is no need to use a gloss clear coat. The clear coats both do the same thing. Seal up the decals and will hide the translucent edge of the decal film too.
Regardless your tanks turned out great. Just a few things you might try with your decals. Honestly the traditional method is what most modelers will preach, but you’ve been doing what I described as described as the non traditional method already. I wouldn’t bother adding the clear coat before hand. Though, now you can tell people why they should do that to prevent decal silvering as well. Also, try just using a flat clear coat to seal up your decals. Remember if you use a rattle can. Use something formulated for models. Light coats and build up the finish or else you’ll find that too much clear coat will eat up your decals. You’ll appreciate the extra flat surface to help with your weathering.
Either way good video and tanks!
Dang it Shae, your stuff looks so good
Thanks, dude!
@@CadianSergeantSteel Of course bud!
Thanks ! Great job with tutorial !
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing!🤩
This and the magnetizing vid were extremely helpful as I just picked up my first dorn and it was daunting at first glance. Have you considered using silly putty for blocking out camo patterns?
No, not yet. I really like bluetac. Have you tried it?
Thank you Sarg, when can I expect them in the mail?😊
🤣 you are funny
@@CadianSergeantSteel though you might get a kick out of that.
Nice build - sorry I'm late! Can you advise the advantage of the funtack over regular blutack?
I have always thought they were the same thing. Are they not?
@@CadianSergeantSteel thanks for the reply. A lot of modelling companies now sell "modelling putty" which is a lot more expensive than blu tack. I haven't used it so don't know if there is any advantage. I looked at the cost (in the UK) of fun tack and this seems mid way between blu tack and putty so was assuming it was different again.....?
Might be. I found out whatever I buy works so I just refuse to buy anything different 😅 but you're probably right and that it is just repackaging of the same product selling for higher or lower profit to different demographics.
Do you have to use paint specifically for airbrushes, or can you use any paint thinned down
Any paint can work through an airbrush. For standard model acrylics, I just use a little bit of airbrush thinner.