I have been watching you tube instructional videos almost everyday since it started. These are the best I have seen in all aspects from knowledge ,speaking ,lighting , sound and images. Thanks
Glad to hear it. Be sure and visit the Knowledge Base on our site for more in depth explanations on the m.Unit installation. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Thank you for explaining in an easy and simple way, even better that the manual or any other site on the net I have finely been able to connect and program my Motogaget thanks again for the info .
I,m currently restoring a 1967 Dnepr motorcycle & sidecar, which doesn't have a starter or modern type electrics, but by using the M-Unit Blue it will enables me to install a much better electrical system with up to date features such as you have described in this video. Great informative videos guys, keep it up.
Best video about the m-unit. Help be a lot for understand and planning my project and my wiring. Thanks for all the other videos too. They are very professional and jave all the information foragood custom build.
Seriously. This video is for the obsolescent V.2 the newer m.Unit Blue has a lot of advanced features and is in some ways easier to install. We've got a whole series of guides and diagrams for this install that can be found on our website. www.revivalcycles.com
Superb preso! Gotta hand it to you. You outlined it perfectly. I have k1200LT w/sidecar and there are more than a few 'installations' that will be managed better but the Munit Blue. Keep up the great work! MH-King
I have to say, this is friggin amazing, I still think it seems like a HUGE task to start running the wiring. However you guys make amazing content that really makes me feel a tiny bit more comfortable thinking about starting running new wiring on my GSX750 81'! Best Regards from Denmark!
It's certainly a big job but perhaps one of the best improvements you can make to an older bike. When you consider that the electrical systems on these old bikes are riddled with issues you may spend more effort chasing mysterious issues and never have a bike that is reliable enough to be a daily rider.
love the videos I have just in the process of learning to ride in part to watching you're videos which made me realise that I could really like the way that a bike looks
I really wish that retailers would have kept the M-Unit V2 as a more affordable option to the new Blue and Basic models. I REALLY want this one for my Virago, but I'm currently deep in custom exhaust design and that costs money too... Maybe once riding season is over I'll tear everything out and make her all high tech.
@@oregonborn666 _"There's a sucker born every minute"_ ~P.T Barnum Made my own from a 79$ Interceptor car alarm module...with remote start even my Engineering degree in electronics is a ++
Great job ya cheapo b*st*rd 👏 how far into debt have you gone for said degree? Your design is probably nowhere as clean and integrated as this. Pretty lame you keep comin back to this thread.
I think you're insane to tell people they can call/email with questions. But I admire insanity born from a wish to help others. I've learned quite a lot from your videos, and I haven't even seen them all yet. Stefan speaks very quietly, but music from the channel intro is very loud, so I'm constantly adjusting volume. Be nice if you can balance those out a little more, IMO. You guys have the best format for making bike videos I have seen. Keep up the awesome work!
Great vid! Thanks for the great info. Has anyone fitted an M-Unit under a 1966 Triumph 2 1/2 gallon tank? It's 90x53x30mm so I guess it will be tight. Cheers from UK.
Thank you for making these videos. I'm working on my first project build and have one question about wiring with kick start bikes. How would the wiring work with those and the M-Unit? In regards to starting the engine I guess.
I'm rebuilding my 95 honda shadow... would this be an easier option then replicating the oem wire harness? 🤔 seems legit... not sure if it would be "compatible"?
If left for months on end without being put on a float charger the milliamp drain will pull a battery down but the same is true for any bike with a modern electrical system. Thanks for the compliment by the way. We've done over a hundred installs and sold them by the thousands. Some folks may have more model specific experience but I don't know that anyone has more general knowledge or experience providing support on them.
How do you turn on the position lights only in the front and not in the back and the turn signal control LED? Z-Diode doesn't work because it's a pwm Signal.
I've got a kickstart 2 stroke bike I've got all the wires done but it wont synch, I grounded the start input and use a mo button for the power up but I do the horn button for 3 seconds and nothing the m unit blue asks to hit the horn 3 times quickly I do that and nothing. I've got power but will not pair. any help would be appreciated I've got $30k in this build and I'm finally at a stump....
If I have this installed and configured in the walk up and go configuration using the Bluetooth on my phone as the “key” what do I do if my phone dies or if I want to let somebody else ride the bike and not have to give them my phone? Can I override that with a key switch?
Great vid thanks Stefan. Same thing came to mind as the other questions here - what are the different scenarios for when your phone battery is dead? Imagine going for a long ride, stop for lunch, lose your phone - how to start the bike? Would the m-lock work in this case?
Yep, m-Lock would work, or a standard key switch, or even a simple toggle switch. My thought would be have an emergency over ride switch hidden under the seat, so if your phone died you could remove the seat, use the bypass switch, and then re-attach the seat. But there are lots of ways around this issue.
Curious about the alarm feature. I have the M-unit Basic and have the alarm activated when I leave the bike. I've never had an issue with someone messing with it....yet, but lets say I did. How long will the horn and lights go off for before it stops. Curious if they shut down on their own after a certain amount of time or does it just keep going and going until the key is inserted. I could see the M-unit Blue maybe being better in this regard since it would most likely send you a notification that it was going off, where as the basic wouldn't. Couldn't find any information on this in my manual. Great videos and beautiful builds you guys do. Really inspiring.
The alarm duration isn't listed in any of the documentation we've seen, but based on a bench test , the alarm will honk the horn and flash the turn signals for 30 seconds each time the alarm is tripped. So if the bike is bumped its only 30 seconds of alarm, but if the bike is being moved or stolen the alarm will be tripped repeatedly and the alarm will continue to sound longer than 30 seconds.
The power supply to the motorcycle is not dependent on your phone, if your phone dies it will not shut off power to the bike. The Keyless Go feature DOES NOT replace the need for a keyed ignition switch but it does allow the key to be a back up so it can be hidden in a more discreet or inconvenient location.
Hi, and thanks for putting all this effort into these videos. I'm trying to figure out a future wiring for a hotrod. If I have understood your videos correctly, I would only need four wires going from front to back. Left and right Signals, rear and brake lights on one wire and one for the license plate?
Yep, that is correct as far as the lighting is concerned. BUT with a hotrod, you may also need to power a fuel pump or other devices that could live in the back. We have been intending to do an install on a hotrod for years, but haven't done it yet. It should work great, but you should keep in mind the total circuit power, and make sure it stays within the limits of the m-Unit.
Revival Cycles thanks for a quick answer :-) the hotrod is maybe not a traditional hotrod, more of a customized beetle so the fuelpump is driven by the engine itself so no worries there. Was also wondering about that Bluetooth keyless start function, if I have understood it correctly all I really need is a pushbutton to start it and then turn it off by doubleclicking the same button. Is that correct? Really like this product for all its functions, the alarm is perfect and also to be able to monitor the battery load
Exactly, the m-Unit is outrageously packed with features, and the keyless-go works by enabling the m-Unit when the connected smart phone is in proximity, then to unlock the m-Unit you push the start button once, then the m-Unit turns on, push the start button again, and the engine starts. When its time to stop, you double click the start button, engine turns off, then double click it again, and the m-Unit turns off. Once you've walked out of proximity with your phone the m-Unit will activate the alarm.
Revival Cycles perfect, was also looking at the buttons on your website and you have one that is called Billet pushbutton switch which have two terminals. I guess one is for a wire mounted to the m-unit but where is the other one supposed to go. Don't think I heard anything about it in any of the videos I have seen
The billet push buttons are just basic normally open momentary contact single pole single throw switches. When using them with the m-Unit, one terminal goes to the m-Unit input, the other terminal goes to ground. This way you can send the ground signal to the m-Unit to let it know what you want it to do.
Those are the Motogadget m.Blaze Discs. In our opinion the best bar-end signals on the market. Perfectly machined finish with seamless transitions into resin lens which has forward and rear reflectors cast into it. You can find them in our store at eh link below. shop.revivalcycles.com/motogadget-m-blaze-disc-led-turn-signals/
So does this cut wording down. Would I be able to take away the wire harness and does this lower wires that need to be grounded. Also does this have a built in fuze.
It is a solid state fuse block replacement with a solid state micro controller that removes all the voltage from the control switches. It does not reduce the need for grounds. It does cut down on quite a bit of wiring and removes the need for most relays. Be sure and check out the series of guides and diagrams in our Knowledge Base. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
I have a problem. The setup worked fine. But all of the sudden the rear tail light is flashing(I'm using one wire setup). And in the menu option 2 I have 4 choices instead of 3.
Thank you for showing some of the capabilities the M-unit Blue has to offer. With this latest update from Motogadget is it necessary to install the M-button with the newer M-unit?
It is never necessary to install an m-Button. And we recommend only using an m-Button when you actually need it, for example on a ultra-clean custom with absolutely no wires or control cables exposed. For 90% of projects you are better off running the control switches directly to the m-Unit.
Revival Cycles: That makes sense. You folks over at Revival are doing really cool things and these videos are entertainingly informative. Thank you Revival team for creating a channel. 👍 Rubber side down Moto brothers, stay safe along your journeys.
I'm trying to build a race cart with a 2000 Yamaha YZF R1 engine. I have watched all of your videos and I'm really interested in your products and am a fan of your work. I'm having trouble getting the wiring started on the engine control side of the house. I have the head lights and such already figured out but I don't have the knowledge to make the engine wiring. Is there a general idea I can use for the engine? Or what products do you have strictly for engine control.
We don't have much specific to engine control yet, but for most applications it is easy enough to re-use the factory engine controls. I also know it can be daunting to decipher the wire diagrams. The approach I use is to identify the ECU or the ignition module (pretty sure 2000 R1 is carb'd). Once you find the ignition control box, then you can trace each wire from it. Typically there will be a power feed, a ground, an ignition coil control wire for each coil, a few wires for the pulser coils or crank position sensor, maybe a TPS sensor, and possibly some safety interlock wires. By tracing everything from the control module, you can probably get a handle on what each wire is doing, then you can re-configure for your application. The end goal is to set the ignition system up exactly as factory, but provide power from a different source. If you can get down to the point where you are just confused on a few wires we can help. Techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Questions I would ask a shop before bringing my bike in. 1. Have they done this install before or is this the first time? Are you going to be paying for them to learn? Do they have photo's of other installs they've done? 2. What kind of warranty are they providing for their work? 3. Are they going to provide a wire diagram of their work? 4.Are they going to program the m.Unit or will that be your task? How much time do they estimate? A professional quality installation on a simple carbureted bike usually takes us at minimum 5 full 8 hour days or 40 hours to create a professional, OEM quality harness and install it, not factoring time to create a diagram or troubleshooting if there's an issue. You should expect significantly more time for a fuel injected project.
Revival Cycles holy hell!!! That’s a lot more hours than I thought it might be. At my triumph dealership the hourly rate is like $168 an hour. That would come out to $6,720 which is half the price of the bike! I definitely don’t think I’m going to do that if that’s the case but does that sound right to you?
Is there an alternative way to power it up? For example when bike is at mechanic, would be a pain to pair mechanics phone and they may not want to anyway
Will this work with my already exsisting on my bike like handlebar control buttons, ignition system, charging system, headlight/tail light, turn signals, horn, starter solenoid, and dash lights/gauges ?
Yes and no. The OEM latching switches have to be required in order to work with the m.Unit. You switches are designed to close and maintain 12V+ circuits while the m.Unit is looking for momentary ground signals. How to do this is outlined in the article below. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360008815572-How-to-Modify-OEM-Switches-for-the-m-Unit
That would be something you would have to install external to the m.Unit which is possible. It would need power provided directly from the battery since the m.Unit can not provide power to anything when it's off. -Berry
So, I want to understand more clearly, I don't need anything except a battery, AWG 16 primary wire, and the parts that I want to have electrified (lights, buttons, omeders, etc)? I'm new to working on motorcycles. Old electrical parts are... new to me, and my carbs are difficult to find info on, so those are my learning curves currently (Haynes is in the mail). 1977 GS550 Cafe project!
Yea, pretty much. You need an m-Unit, handlebar control buttons, ignition system, charging system, headlight/tail light, turn signals, horn, starter solenoid, and some dash lights/gauges. The ignition system and charging system will be from the original bike, or aftermarket model specific options. Oh, and 16 gauge GPT wire is good for the outputs, but you can drop down to 18 gauge if you switch to TXL insulation.
They do. You can find diagrams for kick start systems in our Knowledge Base technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360050888172-m-Unit-Kick-Start-Only-Wire-Diagrams
An m-Lock is not required but you are relying on the Keyless-Go you do need some sort of ignition switch whether it be a key switch or hidden latching switch for situations where you dan not use your phone or you leave the bike with someone else. -Berry
No need for a lid, the circuitry is all potted. While I wouldn't mount it to the underside of my fender, there's nothing to worry about so long as it's under a seat, side cover or tank and it'd probably be fine entirely exposed, I just wouldn't see a point in doing that.
Revival Cycles thanks dude. Also debating keyless tech - huge report just published here in England by leading insurance companies on thieves targeting keyless vehicles as they are easier ... Anybody got an idea how to beat that?
A thief would first have to know that your bike has bluetooth keyless tech which isn't all that common. Then they'd have to know specifically that it's an m.Unit and how to turn the bike on once they'd managed to fool the m.Unit. If someone is that skilled and determined then what's to stop them? More pointedly, why aren't they focusing on where the money is? namely 4 wheel luxury vehicles. I've never heard of a scenario where a thief took the time to circumvent a motorcycle key in public when a couple of heavy lifters can pick it up and drop it in the back of a truck to deal with in a safer location. -Berry
Hi Guys and sorry if this question has already been answered but lets say I walked away from my bike so the alarm has been activated, now me or someone else need to move the bike because it's on the way of something/someone and my phone isn't with me or that person. The bike will start screaming and there is nothing I can do about it? Or I want to drive back home and my phone battery is dead... If I have an M-Lock on the bike it shouldn't be a problem to start the bike right? Or will the alarm scream like hell until I get home? Thx
It is true that the alarm will go off if the bike is moved and the alarm has been armed. That is normal and the way it is supposed to work. But if you have an issue with your phone, there is no problem using an alternative ignition switch, like the m-Lock, a key switch, or even a hidden toggle switch or latching push button. Once the ignition switch has been turned on it will disarm the alarm and you can ride like normal. It is always a good idea to use a back up ignition switch for these exact reasons, it could even be as simple as a pair of bullet connectors somewhere in the loom that you connect together to complete the circuit for the lock input on the m-Unit.
@@RevivalCycles Thanks a lot for that super fast answer! I love the idea of having all the Infos on the phone and getting a notification in case someone is moving the bike but I think that I'll go for the M-Unit Basic to not always have to deal with the Bluetooth and my phone. Plus it's cheaper! All I need is to be able to operate the switches and to have an alarm. Your videos are super helpful and inspiring! Thanks again! ;-)
There is a small draw in the milliamp range for the Memory and Bluetooth functions. Like most modern bikes, you'll want to keep the bike on a float charger when left for extended periods.
Sounds like a pretty good system. I have a couple of Harley's to build yet before the funeral, I think I may try this. My trust level is kinda low, I bought a similar system from Jireh Cycles a few years ago and ended up throwing it in the garbage before I even got the bike done, seemed like a good idea at the time but unfortunately the people who built it where more into profit than integrity. This one looks worlds apart from the one I got back then.
if you have an older m-unit with mlock is it easy to just swap with the blue unit? or is it better to add Bluetooth like I have seen some people on UA-cam do?
I'm not sure how you'd add bluetooth, but if you know how, go for it. It was rather straight forward to swap the V2 for the Blue on J63 but the details of each installation could make the difference.
Does the M Unit 2 have that speed sensor thing? I want to upgrade to a digital tach and speedo for my XV750 cafe build. Im thinking about getting the V2.
If you just need new gauges they should include the needed speed / tach sensors. The m-Unit is more for power distribution and providing power to the gauges. Its not a bad idea to install an m-Unit as the back bone of the system, but it is not necessary if you are just upgrading gauges.
I've got the m-unit blue and I was wondering is there a way that I can set it up without using the starter, like i got xs650 with Newtronics Ignition box, i would like that to run on it own and m unit to use the lights and etc
every circuit on the m-Unit is independent of the others, that means you can use the ones you want and skip the ones you dont. You may still want to have a button connected to the start input so you can take advantage of the keyless go feature, but there is no need to have a starter connected to the start output.
I have a problem I can`t figure out; when I connect power to the M-Unit Blue, it just starts flashing all the LED`s for about 3 seconds before it quits. Afterwards it just blinks the start output for every time the «gyro» notice a twist or turn. What is this? I can`t find a solution in the manual..
Assuming you do not have any wires connected to the inputs or the outputs, and are only powering the main power terminal and grounding through the mounting bosses, this sounds like a malfunction. You should work with your supplier for a resolution, but this does sound like abnormal behavior, but if you have inputs or outputs connected, you may be getting external problems causing this.
one question... i sell my Munit V2 with the Motgagdet m lock. becouse i thought i dont need this, becouse the new Motogadget Blue has a keyless system now. but for the install i need a key system. is ther a way to install it without the Key system ?
Same as the other comment, will a mechanical back up ignition unlock the unit if you phone is unavailable? Is it known what will happen if the battery on your phone dies while you are riding, assuming you're using the Bluetooth as the ignition at the time?
The lock and ignition functions of an m-unit are separate. The Bluetooth function just unlocks the ignition function, allowing you to use the starter button. I do not believe that MotoGadget would allow the bike to turn off if it lost Bluetooth connectivity, sounds like an huge insurance nightmare.
If the phone dies while you are riding, the m-Unit will keep working normally until you turn it off, once you've turned it off it will not restart unless you get bluetooth working again, or use a manual switch. Yes, it is a good idea to use a backup switch just in case something happens to your phone. The switch can be a simple toggle hidden under the seat, or a key switch, or an m-Lock. Whatever works for you.
Yes, the standard lock input continues to work normally even if the bluetooth is enabled. Basically the Bluetooth only adds functionality, it does not eliminate any of the normal operations.
That is what your ignition key is for bud. The Bluetooth features do not replace the necessity for an actual key for instances where you don't have your phone or need to leave the bike with a mechanic or a friend.
Revival Cycles But to make the connection, you said in your Video that you have to push the START BUTTON! But I don‘t have a starter, so I don‘t have any starter button! ;-)
MitchPayne had a Call with the Support Team from motogadget.. we have to use any button, just to simulate a Starterbutton! Just meanwhile the Sync process!
I am trying to reconfigure some of my outputs (AUX) but the unit refuses to go in configuration mode. I get the flashing of my blinkers but that is all the unit does. I cannot get in to any of the menu's??? Any suggestions? Q: do I need actual load on the outputs to go in configuration mode?
No need for an actual load on the outputs, but are you trying to pair with a smartphone or trying to enter the manual configuration settings? The process for manual config was not covered in this video, but it is covered in the manual for the m-Unit Blue.
So if someone knows you have an M unit setup , could they potentially be able to link their Bluetooth to your M unit and then have full access to your bike ? Like a bike hacker if you will.
They would have to be able to turn the bike on in order to pair with your mo.Unit since that's part of the pairing procedure. I'll speculate that someone capable of hacking an m.Unit to steal a bike would be using their time for something more lucrative. The few thefts I know of involved a group of burly dudes kicking the bike up and tossing it in the bed of a truck.
Hi man!! can I ask you a question? I have an harley davidson, sportser, if I use the M-unit blue, can I replace the entire old electrical system with a new one, bypassing al the engine sensors ecc? thank you so much
The m-Unit Blue will handle the power distribution, but it can't do engine managment. If you have a fuel injected bike the ECU will still need to be part of the system, along with the supporting sensors, fuel pump, and injectors. So far, there isn't really any type of universal aftermarket system that will take over engine management, that is something that is way too model specific and there are a ton of different ways manufactures do it.
Theoretically but the are are better suited automotive PDMs out there. Over the years we have sold a number of m.Units to folks planing a car install but I've yet to see one completed. The big issues are the limited number of outputs along with the relatively low max amperage of each output making it impractical for most cars.
Hello, i have a problem with my m unit blue, i have an alert on my smartphone that says bike is tipped over but my bike Never falls . And my turn signals are always blinking. Do you know what s wrong? Thank you and sorry for my english
This sounds like the alarm is being triggered, which can be caused by vibrations or very loud noises. The best advice is to change the alarm sensitivity to a lower sensitivity, with a pre-alarm. Also you could turn the alarm feature off and see if the problem continues. The alarm functions are all internal to the m-Unit so you can't really make a mistake on the install, so if this continues to be a problem you may have a malfunctioning m-Unit and you should work with your supplier to get the issue resolved.
Nothing at all. The Bluetooth connection is only capable of turning the bike on. It will not start the bike or power it off. If your friend switches the bike off they will be stranded.
The power drop issue is related to the m-Lock itself, and/or the battery in the bike. The m-Unit blue doesn't really change this situation, but if you are having power drop issues with the m-Lock, you may need to go with a larger capacity battery, or look for voltage losses in the power supply to the m-Lock.
Yep, the orientation and location of the m-Unit is not important. The only thing I would caution you on is to make sure you have a very secure ground for the m-Unit mount, you can't assume the side car is grounded because many of the heim joints used to attach side cars use teflon or other non conducting polymers to act as a bearing, which could electrically insulate the side car. As long as you run a dedicated ground strap, and use appropriate size wire for the length of the run there is no issue mounting the m-Unit in the side car.
Thanks for the feedback. The intention is to mount the assy with full wire distribution on a metal plate all embedded in a PVC junction box. I am upgrading the wiring on a 1964 BMW 71. (Actually a CJ750 china model) I like things to look organized.
Revival Cycles, let’s imagine a situation where I’m using keyless-go and I paired the m-unit with my Bluetooth at the start of my ride. I’m on my bike riding but now let’s imagine I happen to lose my phone while riding and once I arrive at my destination, I press to kill switch to shut the engine off. At this point, will the m-unit detect that my Bluetooth is now (way) out of range and arm my bike? And if so, how will I unarm it at this point besides accessing the m-unit directly and removing the horn and L/R Light wires? Another question: Let’s say a thief tries to make off with my bike but trips the alarm. Will the alarm (lights and horn) go off indefinitely until the battery dies or is it programmable to go off for a certain time period? Just thinking that if someone really wanted to steal my bike he could easily remove the seat without a significant change/shift in the position of the bike, gain direct access to the m-unit, cut the wires clearly marked “Horn” and “Light L/R” and walk off with my baby without having broken a sweat. Another question: Is there a way to customize what triggers the alarm besides a change of position/angle of the bike? For instance if the kickstand is moved up? One final question: How does the m-unit determine maintenance schedules? Does it download bike-specific info or is it more of a general schedule?
The m-Unit will handle all the power distribution and control, but it does not replace components in the ignition system or the charging system. Both of those systems are too model specific to make a universal solution, but the m-Unit is still a great help in simplifying the rest of the wiring on the bike.
Motogadget keeps telling us the iPhone app is only a few weeks away, but its the same statement every few weeks...so I'm not sure when it will be released, but it can't come soon enough.
Loing Bluetooth functionality won't affect a bike that is already on. But for this and a few other reasons you do still need to have a key switch to use as a back up.
You can always add another button. Either to the bars or hidden in a different part of the bike. We've got some handy little buttons that can be mounted right off the back of a standard clutch or brake perch. revivalcycles.com/collections/for-your-ride-controls-buttons-and-switch-housings/products/push-button-kit This kit is really nice, but if you want to save a few $ this button would work just as well. revivalcycles.com/collections/for-your-ride-controls-buttons-and-switch-housings/products/mini-push-button-switch
Quick question: I have the m-unit blue connected with my phone. My battery died. I don't have an easy access to the m-unit and i cannot turn off the Bluetooth. What happen to the bike?
keeping the key/ignition can it be an alternative? Can the key go over of this bluetooth system? If yes, i will not worry in change mine to m unit blue
I'm pretty sure it's like having a pair of Bluetooth headphones and a pair of wired ones. You can use either or.. it's just that bluetooth makes the whole thing a breeze
Hi need help pairing phone to M- unit blue I go through the motions it says successfully connected but when I go to do anything it says no Bluetooth connection to hardware found
The top loading connectors are actually remove-able blocks so you can remove the m-Unit without removing each individual wire. Then under the block all the pins are sealed to the housing, so yes the m-Unit is just as waterproof as it ever was, but just as before only the terminals where the wires connect are not waterproof.
Good video, small and smart product but if I wanted all this technology I would get a Ducati or something similar. I don't see a point installing this on a old cafe racer. Sorry, sometimes less is more.
An old cafe racer is exactly the bike that needs one of these. If you're just more into wrenching every free moment and you enjoy the whimsy of life riding an unreliable bike then the m.Unit is certainly not for you. However if you like riding vintage bikes long distances without the nagging feeling that you may be spending the afternoon on the side a country back road poking at wires while you wait for your buddy to show up with his pick up then an m.Unit might be something you'd be interested in. Sure, it's got a lot of fancy features you don't need or want, milage tracking and service interval updates and whatever, so don't use those. The magic is in the hardwares solid state fuses and relays along with the ability to monitor voltage in real time and immediately identify exactly where an electrical fault is in your harness.
Nope, the bluetooth is only needed to unlock the bike, once its unlocked and running it doesn't matter if the phone dies. Also, if your phone dies when the bike is off, you can always use a manual switch to turn the m-Unit on like normal.
Revival Cycles wow you replied to my comment. Hey quick question. Does ie really matter on the master cylinder break leaver you use on a motorcycle? Mine is a Yamaha maxim and I wanna change it out but the old break Rez is to big so I bought something smaller. Would it be bad for the front breaks?
Its no problem to change to a different brake master. The trick is getting one that has the correct size piston bore, which is different than the size of the reservoir (the thing that makes the master look big). The piston size is usually something between 12mm and 16mm, and ideally you'd want to get a new master that was close to the same size as the stock one. But this is also an opportunity to change the brake lever feel. If you go to a larger bore, the lever will travel less, feel stiffer, and require more hand pressure to get the same brake pressure. If you go smaller on the bore, the lever travels more, feels softer, and takes less force to get brake pressure.
Revival Cycles I bought some racing looking leavers from eBay. They come with some adjustments nibs on it I just for it because it would go with the feel I want for my motorcycle. But I don’t really wanna replace the whole break assembly. Just the stuff on the bars.
you don't need to replace the whole brake assembly. If you want to just replace the stuff on the bars, you can do that, but you will probably need to replace the whole master cylinder, unless you got lucky and the ebay levers actually work with your master cylinder. Most levers are designed for a specific master cylinder, and the way they fit is critical to how they work.
Sure, Bluetooth protocols will have a finite life span but that aspect of the m.Units features isn't necessary to program or operate an m.Unit. I would go out on a limb and say, OEM manufactures are also not concerned with the future compatibility of the technology they are incorporating today.
I have been watching you tube instructional videos almost everyday since it started. These are the best I have seen in all aspects from knowledge ,speaking ,lighting , sound and images. Thanks
Thanks Stefan and Revival. Partner and I are installing a "Blue" this week on a custom chopper project. One word, "Empowered".
Glad to hear it. Be sure and visit the Knowledge Base on our site for more in depth explanations on the m.Unit installation.
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Really wish I knew about this when I built my supermoto. But glad I know now for my next project.
Great product. Keeps getting better each version. Thanks for the great video of most of the features.
Thank you for explaining in an easy and simple way, even better that the manual or any other site on the net I have finely been able to connect and program my Motogaget thanks again for the info .
Glad it helped!
I,m currently restoring a 1967 Dnepr motorcycle & sidecar, which doesn't have a starter or modern type electrics, but by using the M-Unit Blue it will enables me to install a much better electrical system with up to date features such as you have described in this video. Great informative videos guys, keep it up.
Best video about the m-unit. Help be a lot for understand and planning my project and my wiring.
Thanks for all the other videos too. They are very professional and jave all the information foragood custom build.
Glad it helped!
Awesome idea and product. Wish it came with a factory fob option though so it wasn't reliant on an app to disable the alarm.
Seriously. This video is for the obsolescent V.2 the newer m.Unit Blue has a lot of advanced features and is in some ways easier to install. We've got a whole series of guides and diagrams for this install that can be found on our website. www.revivalcycles.com
So bad ass! Thanks for taking the time to make this vid
Superb preso!
Gotta hand it to you. You outlined it perfectly.
I have k1200LT w/sidecar and there are more than a few 'installations' that will be managed better but the Munit Blue.
Keep up the great work!
MH-King
Impressive. I like that it allows retro looks with high tech components. I have the v2 due to be installed soon in my 72 TR6.
Hi Andrew, did you fit the m-unit, thinking of doing the same to the same bike..
I have to say, this is friggin amazing, I still think it seems like a HUGE task to start running the wiring. However you guys make amazing content that really makes me feel a tiny bit more comfortable thinking about starting running new wiring on my GSX750 81'!
Best Regards from Denmark!
It's certainly a big job but perhaps one of the best improvements you can make to an older bike. When you consider that the electrical systems on these old bikes are riddled with issues you may spend more effort chasing mysterious issues and never have a bike that is reliable enough to be a daily rider.
love the videos I have just in the process of learning to ride in part to watching you're videos which made me realise that I could really like the way that a bike looks
brilliant video... thanks so much, using the m unit blue on my build, and m button... cheers
How much was the install?
I really wish that retailers would have kept the M-Unit V2 as a more affordable option to the new Blue and Basic models. I REALLY want this one for my Virago, but I'm currently deep in custom exhaust design and that costs money too... Maybe once riding season is over I'll tear everything out and make her all high tech.
Great content
Dang I cant wait to order mine!
lolz...get ya 400$ ready
@@thecentralscrutinizer5105 already delivered! Worth every penny!
@@oregonborn666 _"There's a sucker born every minute"_ ~P.T Barnum
Made my own from a 79$ Interceptor car alarm module...with remote start even
my Engineering degree in electronics is a ++
Great job ya cheapo b*st*rd 👏 how far into debt have you gone for said degree? Your design is probably nowhere as clean and integrated as this. Pretty lame you keep comin back to this thread.
@@oregonborn666 I'm sorry for your jealousy & complete ignorance you poor bastard :(
like your shirt. like the bike. the shop i do service work at. was in the biker build off.
I think you're insane to tell people they can call/email with questions. But I admire insanity born from a wish to help others. I've learned quite a lot from your videos, and I haven't even seen them all yet. Stefan speaks very quietly, but music from the channel intro is very loud, so I'm constantly adjusting volume. Be nice if you can balance those out a little more, IMO. You guys have the best format for making bike videos I have seen. Keep up the awesome work!
We will work on smoothing that out.
I've adjusted by just shutting off the volume during the intro. Your choice though. Thanks for actually paying attention to what viewers post. Cheers!
Great vid! Thanks for the great info. Has anyone fitted an M-Unit under a 1966 Triumph 2 1/2 gallon tank? It's 90x53x30mm so I guess it will be tight. Cheers from UK.
How big is the original fuse box? You won't need it with the M-unit so you can possibly use that space for the M-unit
Thank you for making these videos. I'm working on my first project build and have one question about wiring with kick start bikes. How would the wiring work with those and the M-Unit? In regards to starting the engine I guess.
Did you figure it out?
Still have the same question!
I'm rebuilding my 95 honda shadow... would this be an easier option then replicating the oem wire harness? 🤔 seems legit... not sure if it would be "compatible"?
You guys seem to know the most about these units! Does the mo.unit blue have any issues with battery drain?
If left for months on end without being put on a float charger the milliamp drain will pull a battery down but the same is true for any bike with a modern electrical system.
Thanks for the compliment by the way. We've done over a hundred installs and sold them by the thousands. Some folks may have more model specific experience but I don't know that anyone has more general knowledge or experience providing support on them.
How do you turn on the position lights only in the front and not in the back and the turn signal control LED? Z-Diode doesn't work because it's a pwm Signal.
I've got a kickstart 2 stroke bike I've got all the wires done but it wont synch, I grounded the start input and use a mo button for the power up but I do the horn button for 3 seconds and nothing the m unit blue asks to hit the horn 3 times quickly I do that and nothing. I've got power but will not pair. any help would be appreciated I've got $30k in this build and I'm finally at a stump....
Hello. Shoot us an email at techsupport@revivalcycles.com and we’ll help you to figure what’s going on.
If I have this installed and configured in the walk up and go configuration using the Bluetooth on my phone as the “key” what do I do if my phone dies or if I want to let somebody else ride the bike and not have to give them my phone? Can I override that with a key switch?
Great vid thanks Stefan. Same thing came to mind as the other questions here - what are the different scenarios for when your phone battery is dead?
Imagine going for a long ride, stop for lunch, lose your phone - how to start the bike? Would the m-lock work in this case?
Yep, m-Lock would work, or a standard key switch, or even a simple toggle switch. My thought would be have an emergency over ride switch hidden under the seat, so if your phone died you could remove the seat, use the bypass switch, and then re-attach the seat. But there are lots of ways around this issue.
For those who don't already knows, the m-Ride app for IOS is now avalaible and working fine.
Curious about the alarm feature. I have the M-unit Basic and have the alarm activated when I leave the bike. I've never had an issue with someone messing with it....yet, but lets say I did. How long will the horn and lights go off for before it stops. Curious if they shut down on their own after a certain amount of time or does it just keep going and going until the key is inserted. I could see the M-unit Blue maybe being better in this regard since it would most likely send you a notification that it was going off, where as the basic wouldn't. Couldn't find any information on this in my manual. Great videos and beautiful builds you guys do. Really inspiring.
The alarm duration isn't listed in any of the documentation we've seen, but based on a bench test , the alarm will honk the horn and flash the turn signals for 30 seconds each time the alarm is tripped. So if the bike is bumped its only 30 seconds of alarm, but if the bike is being moved or stolen the alarm will be tripped repeatedly and the alarm will continue to sound longer than 30 seconds.
How did you stop the alarm?
that is incredibly cool. the only question I have is what happens when your phone dies?
The power supply to the motorcycle is not dependent on your phone, if your phone dies it will not shut off power to the bike. The Keyless Go feature DOES NOT replace the need for a keyed ignition switch but it does allow the key to be a back up so it can be hidden in a more discreet or inconvenient location.
Hi, and thanks for putting all this effort into these videos. I'm trying to figure out a future wiring for a hotrod. If I have understood your videos correctly, I would only need four wires going from front to back. Left and right Signals, rear and brake lights on one wire and one for the license plate?
Yep, that is correct as far as the lighting is concerned. BUT with a hotrod, you may also need to power a fuel pump or other devices that could live in the back. We have been intending to do an install on a hotrod for years, but haven't done it yet. It should work great, but you should keep in mind the total circuit power, and make sure it stays within the limits of the m-Unit.
Revival Cycles thanks for a quick answer :-) the hotrod is maybe not a traditional hotrod, more of a customized beetle so the fuelpump is driven by the engine itself so no worries there. Was also wondering about that Bluetooth keyless start function, if I have understood it correctly all I really need is a pushbutton to start it and then turn it off by doubleclicking the same button. Is that correct? Really like this product for all its functions, the alarm is perfect and also to be able to monitor the battery load
Exactly, the m-Unit is outrageously packed with features, and the keyless-go works by enabling the m-Unit when the connected smart phone is in proximity, then to unlock the m-Unit you push the start button once, then the m-Unit turns on, push the start button again, and the engine starts. When its time to stop, you double click the start button, engine turns off, then double click it again, and the m-Unit turns off. Once you've walked out of proximity with your phone the m-Unit will activate the alarm.
Revival Cycles perfect, was also looking at the buttons on your website and you have one that is called Billet pushbutton switch which have two terminals. I guess one is for a wire mounted to the m-unit but where is the other one supposed to go. Don't think I heard anything about it in any of the videos I have seen
The billet push buttons are just basic normally open momentary contact single pole single throw switches. When using them with the m-Unit, one terminal goes to the m-Unit input, the other terminal goes to ground. This way you can send the ground signal to the m-Unit to let it know what you want it to do.
Uhhhh can I get a discount on the m-unit blue? Figured I would ask?
Great Vidoe thanks guys your the best
Great quality video...What kind of turn signals do you have on the bars?
Those are the Motogadget m.Blaze Discs. In our opinion the best bar-end signals on the market. Perfectly machined finish with seamless transitions into resin lens which has forward and rear reflectors cast into it.
You can find them in our store at eh link below.
shop.revivalcycles.com/motogadget-m-blaze-disc-led-turn-signals/
So does this cut wording down. Would I be able to take away the wire harness and does this lower wires that need to be grounded. Also does this have a built in fuze.
It is a solid state fuse block replacement with a solid state micro controller that removes all the voltage from the control switches. It does not reduce the need for grounds. It does cut down on quite a bit of wiring and removes the need for most relays. Be sure and check out the series of guides and diagrams in our Knowledge Base. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Can the M unit blue works on a Kawasaki vn900 classic lt?
I have a problem. The setup worked fine. But all of the sudden the rear tail light is flashing(I'm using one wire setup). And in the menu option 2 I have 4 choices instead of 3.
It can be difficult to provide support through UA-cam. Shoot us an email at techsupport@revivalcycles.com and we'll get you sorted.
@@RevivalCycles thanks for the reply. Found the problem. It was the low voltage of the battery :)
Thank you for showing some of the capabilities the M-unit Blue has to offer. With this latest update from Motogadget is it necessary to install the M-button with the newer M-unit?
It is never necessary to install an m-Button. And we recommend only using an m-Button when you actually need it, for example on a ultra-clean custom with absolutely no wires or control cables exposed. For 90% of projects you are better off running the control switches directly to the m-Unit.
Revival Cycles: That makes sense. You folks over at Revival are doing really cool things and these videos are entertainingly informative. Thank you Revival team for creating a channel. 👍 Rubber side down Moto brothers, stay safe along your journeys.
I'm trying to build a race cart with a 2000 Yamaha YZF R1 engine. I have watched all of your videos and I'm really interested in your products and am a fan of your work. I'm having trouble getting the wiring started on the engine control side of the house. I have the head lights and such already figured out but I don't have the knowledge to make the engine wiring. Is there a general idea I can use for the engine? Or what products do you have strictly for engine control.
We don't have much specific to engine control yet, but for most applications it is easy enough to re-use the factory engine controls. I also know it can be daunting to decipher the wire diagrams. The approach I use is to identify the ECU or the ignition module (pretty sure 2000 R1 is carb'd). Once you find the ignition control box, then you can trace each wire from it. Typically there will be a power feed, a ground, an ignition coil control wire for each coil, a few wires for the pulser coils or crank position sensor, maybe a TPS sensor, and possibly some safety interlock wires. By tracing everything from the control module, you can probably get a handle on what each wire is doing, then you can re-configure for your application.
The end goal is to set the ignition system up exactly as factory, but provide power from a different source. If you can get down to the point where you are just confused on a few wires we can help. Techsupport@revivalcycles.com
If you were to guesstimate an average price for install...I’m in nyc and ordered the m blue before finding out and I’m worried now
Questions I would ask a shop before bringing my bike in.
1. Have they done this install before or is this the first time? Are you going to be paying for them to learn? Do they have photo's of other installs they've done?
2. What kind of warranty are they providing for their work?
3. Are they going to provide a wire diagram of their work?
4.Are they going to program the m.Unit or will that be your task?
How much time do they estimate? A professional quality installation on a simple carbureted bike usually takes us at minimum 5 full 8 hour days or 40 hours to create a professional, OEM quality harness and install it, not factoring time to create a diagram or troubleshooting if there's an issue. You should expect significantly more time for a fuel injected project.
Revival Cycles holy hell!!! That’s a lot more hours than I thought it might be. At my triumph dealership the hourly rate is like $168 an hour. That would come out to $6,720 which is half the price of the bike! I definitely don’t think I’m going to do that if that’s the case but does that sound right to you?
Is there an alternative way to power it up? For example when bike is at mechanic, would be a pain to pair mechanics phone and they may not want to anyway
Yes, with the ignition key. The keyless go doesn't replace the need for a key for this very reason.
Will this work with my already exsisting on my bike like handlebar control buttons, ignition system, charging system, headlight/tail light, turn signals, horn, starter solenoid, and dash lights/gauges ?
You'd need to trace and re-route all wires to/from the m-unit, but it should work.
Yes and no. The OEM latching switches have to be required in order to work with the m.Unit. You switches are designed to close and maintain 12V+ circuits while the m.Unit is looking for momentary ground signals.
How to do this is outlined in the article below.
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360008815572-How-to-Modify-OEM-Switches-for-the-m-Unit
Hey great insight into M Unit / regarding alarms - is there a way to integrate a GPS into the alarm function - track it..?
That would be something you would have to install external to the m.Unit which is possible. It would need power provided directly from the battery since the m.Unit can not provide power to anything when it's off.
-Berry
Thanks dude - I just bought a blue and had this convo with them too - can anyone out there recommend a GPS unit?
@@BlackbeardBikes check out the boomerangbike GPS tracker + alarm
That anti-theft feature, do you need an external sensor for that to work or is it buit in the M Unit?
That is built into the m-Unit. There is an inertial measurement device in there and it can detect anytime the bike moves.
what if you will let the bike run on the side stand in neutral ?? it will shut off ?
So, I want to understand more clearly, I don't need anything except a battery, AWG 16 primary wire, and the parts that I want to have electrified (lights, buttons, omeders, etc)?
I'm new to working on motorcycles. Old electrical parts are... new to me, and my carbs are difficult to find info on, so those are my learning curves currently (Haynes is in the mail).
1977 GS550 Cafe project!
Yea, pretty much. You need an m-Unit, handlebar control buttons, ignition system, charging system, headlight/tail light, turn signals, horn, starter solenoid, and some dash lights/gauges. The ignition system and charging system will be from the original bike, or aftermarket model specific options.
Oh, and 16 gauge GPT wire is good for the outputs, but you can drop down to 18 gauge if you switch to TXL insulation.
Thanks so much. I just binged a bunch of your videos over the past 18hrs, so I figured it out. Either way, you guys gave me the answer.
I'm loving the tech talks. I'm a nerd like that. Really helpful.
Do you need a starter relay, when you have the m-unit blue??
Yes you do. The M-Unit does not take the place of the starter relay, it only supplies the power signal (+12v) to engage the relay.
Do these work on bikes with kick starts instead of push to start?
They do. You can find diagrams for kick start systems in our Knowledge Base
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360050888172-m-Unit-Kick-Start-Only-Wire-Diagrams
would an m-lock be needed for the ignition switch if i plan on going with the m-unit blue or could a temporary switch (or a 6th button) do the trick?
An m-Lock is not required but you are relying on the Keyless-Go you do need some sort of ignition switch whether it be a key switch or hidden latching switch for situations where you dan not use your phone or you leave the bike with someone else.
-Berry
Hiya - just bought an m unit - was wondering if anyone is making a lid for it? Can't be good having all of those connectors open to the elements 🚿😴🤯
No need for a lid, the circuitry is all potted. While I wouldn't mount it to the underside of my fender, there's nothing to worry about so long as it's under a seat, side cover or tank and it'd probably be fine entirely exposed, I just wouldn't see a point in doing that.
Revival Cycles thanks dude. Also debating keyless tech - huge report just published here in England by leading insurance companies on thieves targeting keyless vehicles as they are easier ... Anybody got an idea how to beat that?
A thief would first have to know that your bike has bluetooth keyless tech which isn't all that common. Then they'd have to know specifically that it's an m.Unit and how to turn the bike on once they'd managed to fool the m.Unit. If someone is that skilled and determined then what's to stop them? More pointedly, why aren't they focusing on where the money is? namely 4 wheel luxury vehicles. I've never heard of a scenario where a thief took the time to circumvent a motorcycle key in public when a couple of heavy lifters can pick it up and drop it in the back of a truck to deal with in a safer location.
-Berry
Revival Cycles ha ha ha - I applaud your common sense - I will get a GPS and barbecue them but I prefer beef to pork ⚔️😂🇬🇧
Hi Guys and sorry if this question has already been answered but lets say I walked away from my bike so the alarm has been activated, now me or someone else need to move the bike because it's on the way of something/someone and my phone isn't with me or that person. The bike will start screaming and there is nothing I can do about it? Or I want to drive back home and my phone battery is dead... If I have an M-Lock on the bike it shouldn't be a problem to start the bike right? Or will the alarm scream like hell until I get home? Thx
It is true that the alarm will go off if the bike is moved and the alarm has been armed. That is normal and the way it is supposed to work. But if you have an issue with your phone, there is no problem using an alternative ignition switch, like the m-Lock, a key switch, or even a hidden toggle switch or latching push button. Once the ignition switch has been turned on it will disarm the alarm and you can ride like normal. It is always a good idea to use a back up ignition switch for these exact reasons, it could even be as simple as a pair of bullet connectors somewhere in the loom that you connect together to complete the circuit for the lock input on the m-Unit.
@@RevivalCycles Thanks a lot for that super fast answer! I love the idea of having all the Infos on the phone and getting a notification in case someone is moving the bike but I think that I'll go for the M-Unit Basic to not always have to deal with the Bluetooth and my phone. Plus it's cheaper! All I need is to be able to operate the switches and to have an alarm. Your videos are super helpful and inspiring! Thanks again! ;-)
When you run the m unit on a motorcycle is there a constant current draw on the battery all the time? (When it's off or in storage?)
There is a small draw in the milliamp range for the Memory and Bluetooth functions. Like most modern bikes, you'll want to keep the bike on a float charger when left for extended periods.
Sounds like a pretty good system. I have a couple of Harley's to build yet before the funeral, I think I may try this. My trust level is kinda low, I bought a similar system from Jireh Cycles a few years ago and ended up throwing it in the garbage before I even got the bike done, seemed like a good idea at the time but unfortunately the people who built it where more into profit than integrity. This one looks worlds apart from the one I got back then.
if you have an older m-unit with mlock is it easy to just swap with the blue unit? or is it better to add Bluetooth like I have seen some people on UA-cam do?
I'm not sure how you'd add bluetooth, but if you know how, go for it. It was rather straight forward to swap the V2 for the Blue on J63 but the details of each installation could make the difference.
Does the M Unit 2 have that speed sensor thing? I want to upgrade to a digital tach and speedo for my XV750 cafe build. Im thinking about getting the V2.
If you just need new gauges they should include the needed speed / tach sensors. The m-Unit is more for power distribution and providing power to the gauges. Its not a bad idea to install an m-Unit as the back bone of the system, but it is not necessary if you are just upgrading gauges.
I've got the m-unit blue and I was wondering is there a way that I can set it up without using the starter, like i got xs650 with Newtronics Ignition box, i would like that to run on it own and m unit to use the lights and etc
every circuit on the m-Unit is independent of the others, that means you can use the ones you want and skip the ones you dont. You may still want to have a button connected to the start input so you can take advantage of the keyless go feature, but there is no need to have a starter connected to the start output.
I have a problem I can`t figure out; when I connect power to the M-Unit Blue, it just starts flashing all the LED`s for about 3 seconds before it quits. Afterwards it just blinks the start output for every time the «gyro» notice a twist or turn.
What is this? I can`t find a solution in the manual..
Assuming you do not have any wires connected to the inputs or the outputs, and are only powering the main power terminal and grounding through the mounting bosses, this sounds like a malfunction. You should work with your supplier for a resolution, but this does sound like abnormal behavior, but if you have inputs or outputs connected, you may be getting external problems causing this.
But what i have to do if i have a Kickstart?
So long as your bike has a battery it doesn't really make a difference.
@@RevivalCycles thx for your fast answer🙏
one question... i sell my Munit V2 with the Motgagdet m lock. becouse i thought i dont need this, becouse the new Motogadget Blue has a keyless system now. but for the install i need a key system. is ther a way to install it without the Key system ?
Does this make install with the m.lok easier with the m unit blue?
Using the Mo.Lock with the Mo.Unit will allow you to wire the Mo.Lock without the use of the supplied relay.
Same as the other comment, will a mechanical back up ignition unlock the unit if you phone is unavailable? Is it known what will happen if the battery on your phone dies while you are riding, assuming you're using the Bluetooth as the ignition at the time?
The lock and ignition functions of an m-unit are separate. The Bluetooth function just unlocks the ignition function, allowing you to use the starter button. I do not believe that MotoGadget would allow the bike to turn off if it lost Bluetooth connectivity, sounds like an huge insurance nightmare.
Demoni696 I would think similarly. now can a Bluetooth immobilized bike be manually started with a key
If the phone dies while you are riding, the m-Unit will keep working normally until you turn it off, once you've turned it off it will not restart unless you get bluetooth working again, or use a manual switch. Yes, it is a good idea to use a backup switch just in case something happens to your phone. The switch can be a simple toggle hidden under the seat, or a key switch, or an m-Lock. Whatever works for you.
Exactly, if the bluetooth looses connectivity while riding the m-Unit will continue to work normally until you turn the m-Unit off.
Yes, the standard lock input continues to work normally even if the bluetooth is enabled. Basically the Bluetooth only adds functionality, it does not eliminate any of the normal operations.
But what if your phone dies? I'd hate the alarm to go off on myself haha
That is what your ignition key is for bud. The Bluetooth features do not replace the necessity for an actual key for instances where you don't have your phone or need to leave the bike with a mechanic or a friend.
the m button makes it complete! i want one..... :-)
Michael Kuijpers what is the M Button / meaning what does it do?
@@BlackbeardBikes the m button is a singular button that pairs with the m unit that can take the place of all of your control buttons.
What if the Bike has no Starter? I wanna bild a XT600 Tenere 34l from the ground and she has no Starter!
So long as it has a battery not having a starter isn't an issue.
Revival Cycles But to make the connection, you said in your Video that you have to push the START BUTTON! But I don‘t have a starter, so I don‘t have any starter button! ;-)
@@oliverschmidt2803 Have same issue, all wired in ok but cant sync the app and unit due to no actual starter button
MitchPayne had a Call with the Support Team from motogadget.. we have to use any button, just to simulate a Starterbutton! Just meanwhile the Sync process!
I am trying to reconfigure some of my outputs (AUX) but the unit refuses to go in configuration mode. I get the flashing of my blinkers but that is all the unit does. I cannot get in to any of the menu's??? Any suggestions?
Q: do I need actual load on the outputs to go in configuration mode?
No need for an actual load on the outputs, but are you trying to pair with a smartphone or trying to enter the manual configuration settings? The process for manual config was not covered in this video, but it is covered in the manual for the m-Unit Blue.
So if someone knows you have an M unit setup , could they potentially be able to link their Bluetooth to your M unit and then have full access to your bike ? Like a bike hacker if you will.
They would have to be able to turn the bike on in order to pair with your mo.Unit since that's part of the pairing procedure. I'll speculate that someone capable of hacking an m.Unit to steal a bike would be using their time for something more lucrative. The few thefts I know of involved a group of burly dudes kicking the bike up and tossing it in the bed of a truck.
I want to build a custom bike just to install this unit.
Hi man!! can I ask you a question? I have an harley davidson, sportser, if I use the M-unit blue, can I replace the entire old electrical system with a new one, bypassing al the engine sensors ecc? thank you so much
The m-Unit Blue will handle the power distribution, but it can't do engine managment. If you have a fuel injected bike the ECU will still need to be part of the system, along with the supporting sensors, fuel pump, and injectors. So far, there isn't really any type of universal aftermarket system that will take over engine management, that is something that is way too model specific and there are a ton of different ways manufactures do it.
Hi, you can email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com with technical questions!
Revival Cycles ok! Thank you so much!!
It appears to now have the app on Itunes, iPhone users rejoice.
yeah, but what's gunna happen when you run out of battery and can't start the bike to get back home? ;D
Do you think that I can use one of those on an old VW beetle??
Theoretically but the are are better suited automotive PDMs out there. Over the years we have sold a number of m.Units to folks planing a car install but I've yet to see one completed. The big issues are the limited number of outputs along with the relatively low max amperage of each output making it impractical for most cars.
Hello, i have a problem with my m unit blue, i have an alert on my smartphone that says bike is tipped over but my bike Never falls . And my turn signals are always blinking. Do you know what s wrong? Thank you and sorry for my english
This sounds like the alarm is being triggered, which can be caused by vibrations or very loud noises. The best advice is to change the alarm sensitivity to a lower sensitivity, with a pre-alarm. Also you could turn the alarm feature off and see if the problem continues.
The alarm functions are all internal to the m-Unit so you can't really make a mistake on the install, so if this continues to be a problem you may have a malfunctioning m-Unit and you should work with your supplier to get the issue resolved.
Revival Cycles , i m already with this option prealarm and nothing changed. Thank you for your solutions
Everything is ok now, i updated my firmware m ride
Just wondering what will happen when someone want to take my bike for a ride and they ride away from me and my Bluetooth connection.
Nothing at all. The Bluetooth connection is only capable of turning the bike on. It will not start the bike or power it off. If your friend switches the bike off they will be stranded.
@@RevivalCycles thanks 👍
with the old M unit working with the M lock i had power drop . Is this better with M unit Blue ?
The power drop issue is related to the m-Lock itself, and/or the battery in the bike. The m-Unit blue doesn't really change this situation, but if you are having power drop issues with the m-Lock, you may need to go with a larger capacity battery, or look for voltage losses in the power supply to the m-Lock.
Just got my unit and I am ready to start wiring. I have a side car, can I mount the unit vertically inside my side car?
Yep, the orientation and location of the m-Unit is not important. The only thing I would caution you on is to make sure you have a very secure ground for the m-Unit mount, you can't assume the side car is grounded because many of the heim joints used to attach side cars use teflon or other non conducting polymers to act as a bearing, which could electrically insulate the side car. As long as you run a dedicated ground strap, and use appropriate size wire for the length of the run there is no issue mounting the m-Unit in the side car.
Thanks for the feedback. The intention is to mount the assy with full wire distribution on a metal plate all embedded in a PVC junction box. I am upgrading the wiring on a 1964 BMW 71. (Actually a CJ750 china model)
I like things to look organized.
That will work fine, just make sure to double check that ground for the m-Unit, but other than that you are good to go.
I love android freedom and flexibility.
Hi i am from nepal and how can i get that?
We ship to most countries. Check out our website!
So what if your phone dies or falls out of your pocket while you're riding? Will the bike just shut down?
The bluetooth connection is only needed to unlock the m-Unit. Once you are riding you do not need any connection.
Revival Cycles, let’s imagine a situation where I’m using keyless-go and I paired the m-unit with my Bluetooth at the start of my ride. I’m on my bike riding but now let’s imagine I happen to lose my phone while riding and once I arrive at my destination, I press to kill switch to shut the engine off. At this point, will the m-unit detect that my Bluetooth is now (way) out of range and arm my bike? And if so, how will I unarm it at this point besides accessing the m-unit directly and removing the horn and L/R Light wires?
Another question: Let’s say a thief tries to make off with my bike but trips the alarm. Will the alarm (lights and horn) go off indefinitely until the battery dies or is it programmable to go off for a certain time period? Just thinking that if someone really wanted to steal my bike he could easily remove the seat without a significant change/shift in the position of the bike, gain direct access to the m-unit, cut the wires clearly marked “Horn” and “Light L/R” and walk off with my baby without having broken a sweat.
Another question: Is there a way to customize what triggers the alarm besides a change of position/angle of the bike? For instance if the kickstand is moved up?
One final question: How does the m-unit determine maintenance schedules? Does it download bike-specific info or is it more of a general schedule?
I want to know the answers to Stephen's questions too!!!! Great questions I was wondering myself!!!
Does that mean you don't need to use a regulator/rectifier?
The m-Unit will handle all the power distribution and control, but it does not replace components in the ignition system or the charging system. Both of those systems are too model specific to make a universal solution, but the m-Unit is still a great help in simplifying the rest of the wiring on the bike.
Can you start the bike with the phone to?
This is not supported on the m-Unit. There are too many safety risks for motogadget to enable this.
Why you guys dont make an app for iphone user ?
Motogadget keeps telling us the iPhone app is only a few weeks away, but its the same statement every few weeks...so I'm not sure when it will be released, but it can't come soon enough.
How was this tank finished?
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. If you can clarify I'll be happy to explain.
@@RevivalCycles like paint? Chrome? Plated?
What if your phone is dead?
Loing Bluetooth functionality won't affect a bike that is already on. But for this and a few other reasons you do still need to have a key switch to use as a back up.
I need one. Too bad they are always out of stock.
Yes, we're sorry about that. We want them just as bad as you do! We're hoping to get more soon.
Thank you!
This is kinda a bummer. It won't work with my 77 triumph tiger. No starter button.
You can always add another button. Either to the bars or hidden in a different part of the bike. We've got some handy little buttons that can be mounted right off the back of a standard clutch or brake perch. revivalcycles.com/collections/for-your-ride-controls-buttons-and-switch-housings/products/push-button-kit This kit is really nice, but if you want to save a few $ this button would work just as well. revivalcycles.com/collections/for-your-ride-controls-buttons-and-switch-housings/products/mini-push-button-switch
Quick question: I have the m-unit blue connected with my phone. My battery died. I don't have an easy access to the m-unit and i cannot turn off the Bluetooth. What happen to the bike?
Filipe Pena I imagine the whole thing is dead until power is restored.
I would still recommend having an actual key to start the bike just in case of something like what you described happened.
keeping the key/ignition can it be an alternative? Can the key go over of this bluetooth system? If yes, i will not worry in change mine to m unit blue
I'm pretty sure it's like having a pair of Bluetooth headphones and a pair of wired ones. You can use either or.. it's just that bluetooth makes the whole thing a breeze
yeah. the demo bike in this video even has the setup you describe. @3:25 he explains it when he does the setup.
i would consider switching from an apple for this thing haha.
Good news! The m-Ride app is now available for iPhone. Check it out in the apple store.
best. news. ever. you guys rock!!!!!
RIP Brodie Lee
Hi need help pairing phone to M- unit blue I go through the motions it says successfully connected but when I go to do anything it says no Bluetooth connection to hardware found
What phone / OS are you using?
Android 6.0.1. Phone is ZTE.
And I was wondering about the turn signals I have no running lights will I be able to program that with the smart phone?
Hey I get it to work! Thanks so much this is so sweet bro......
Awesome! what was the trick to getting it to work? Perhaps your experience might help others that run into the same problem.
the M Unit Blues does not look likes it is waterproof with those top loading block connectors - is it? Thanks
The top loading connectors are actually remove-able blocks so you can remove the m-Unit without removing each individual wire. Then under the block all the pins are sealed to the housing, so yes the m-Unit is just as waterproof as it ever was, but just as before only the terminals where the wires connect are not waterproof.
Good video, small and smart product but if I wanted all this technology I would get a Ducati or something similar. I don't see a point installing this on a old cafe racer. Sorry, sometimes less is more.
An old cafe racer is exactly the bike that needs one of these. If you're just more into wrenching every free moment and you enjoy the whimsy of life riding an unreliable bike then the m.Unit is certainly not for you. However if you like riding vintage bikes long distances without the nagging feeling that you may be spending the afternoon on the side a country back road poking at wires while you wait for your buddy to show up with his pick up then an m.Unit might be something you'd be interested in.
Sure, it's got a lot of fancy features you don't need or want, milage tracking and service interval updates and whatever, so don't use those. The magic is in the hardwares solid state fuses and relays along with the ability to monitor voltage in real time and immediately identify exactly where an electrical fault is in your harness.
It's all fun and games until hackers (or the government) decide to kill my bike mid ride while I'm trying to escape into Mexico.
The chemtrails will have you sedated long before you ever make it to the border my friend.
Hahahaha, ah, this is awesome! Love the comments
if you're 1000 miles from civilization, and your phone goes dead, or you loose your phone, does that mean you're stranded?
Nope, the bluetooth is only needed to unlock the bike, once its unlocked and running it doesn't matter if the phone dies. Also, if your phone dies when the bike is off, you can always use a manual switch to turn the m-Unit on like normal.
Now if u can make it turn on with ur watch... your pimpish geek motorcycle.
Who knows if motogadget will build in support for the watches...maybe someday.
Revival Cycles wow you replied to my comment. Hey quick question. Does ie really matter on the master cylinder break leaver you use on a motorcycle? Mine is a Yamaha maxim and I wanna change it out but the old break Rez is to big so I bought something smaller. Would it be bad for the front breaks?
Its no problem to change to a different brake master. The trick is getting one that has the correct size piston bore, which is different than the size of the reservoir (the thing that makes the master look big). The piston size is usually something between 12mm and 16mm, and ideally you'd want to get a new master that was close to the same size as the stock one.
But this is also an opportunity to change the brake lever feel. If you go to a larger bore, the lever will travel less, feel stiffer, and require more hand pressure to get the same brake pressure. If you go smaller on the bore, the lever travels more, feels softer, and takes less force to get brake pressure.
Revival Cycles I bought some racing looking leavers from eBay. They come with some adjustments nibs on it I just for it because it would go with the feel I want for my motorcycle. But I don’t really wanna replace the whole break assembly. Just the stuff on the bars.
you don't need to replace the whole brake assembly. If you want to just replace the stuff on the bars, you can do that, but you will probably need to replace the whole master cylinder, unless you got lucky and the ebay levers actually work with your master cylinder. Most levers are designed for a specific master cylinder, and the way they fit is critical to how they work.
What do you think will happen 15 years from now when phones are totally different? Will we have to buy a new unit? Hmmmmmmmm.
Sure, Bluetooth protocols will have a finite life span but that aspect of the m.Units features isn't necessary to program or operate an m.Unit. I would go out on a limb and say, OEM manufactures are also not concerned with the future compatibility of the technology they are incorporating today.