Hi Stefan, To you guys i would mention something about key fob: This whole terme generally refer to proximity acces generator that can be keep in pocket, they work with an embedded battery, but in this case it's RFID wich first differ in distance of usage, this need to be put right close to the reader, nearly in contac, also because they don't have an embedded battery, they are powered by the reader when close to it, of course watching this video show this matter of distance, but just using the terme key fob can confuse. Thoses tokens should be called "RFID Key tag". Hope this help. THX for the Tech Talk
After 2yrs of using mlock, my blue fob didn't recognized by the reader, but my master key is still working... do i need to replace the whole unit? or just the fob? can i use ordinary rfid tag with 125khz?
It was mentioned that you have to use the thought to turn the bike on and off? There is no setting that the bike automatically turns off when you like a switch to turn it off ? It makes more sense to use the fob only for unlocking and have a switch on the bike to lock ?
Another solution for problem battery is to have a small backup battery for the M-unit coupled with a diode to ensure that current will only feed the unit and other side the bike charging system will still charge the backup battery
yep, that works, or the same idea but with a capacitor. We've tested that and it works well...the secret is the diode. BUT I still don't recommend this solution because it is just covering up the real problem. If the m-Lock is dropping out it is because the battery is not strong enough and the battery is being damaged during the starting operation. The better solution is to get a larger capacity battery.
Hey! what are the other suggestions you have to resolve the power withdraw ? i have a 2015 Vulcan S and wanted to installed the M-lock without the M-Unit. I have the Scorpio I-800 with perimeter sensor & ignition disabler on another bike and i kept coming across the dead battery problem. The battery wouldn't last more than 3 days if the bike wasn't being used. So i had to put on a separate on and off switch just for the security system. I don't want to do that if i get the M-lock because it'll require me to constantly reprogram the keys and that defeats the purpose of getting the unit. If you can share the tips or solutions you found that would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, great video as always. Can the m-lock have a switch in the circuit? As in swipe to get the power on, but a simple momentary switch to power down rather than need to swipe again?
That is a very good idea, but although the m-Lock is not intended to be setup that way, I think should work fine if you can get a normally closed momentary switch on the power input to the m-Lock. This way when you push the momentary button it breaks contact with the power supply forcing the m-Lock to shut down. Then when you release power, the m-Lock is still off but ready to be reactivated with the RFID fob. The one down side is that it can be tricky to find a momentary switch that is normally closed. For some reason the majority of push button switches are only available as normally open.
Hi Stephan & Revival cycles, I have installed the M-Lock on my K100 build, when I swith it off the ignition still turn over when pressing the mo switch start button. Have I got something wrong here?
Another great video guys. You are mo go to for these things. Damn shame you are not in Australia or I would be buying from you. I am now sold on one of these and I'd want to locate the M-Lock in a headlight bucket. The whole things metal. Will it still work? Could I put a timber plate in and mount it under that?
Hi, i got a cbx1000 '81. I want to install the m lock. But i have a wire that goes to the regulator from my ignition key. Can i connect the m lock to the regulator? Or should i just connect the m lock to the m unit and then use the ignition or aux output to connect to the regulator?
This may be a very stupid question, but I barely know anything about motorcycles and I'm trying my best to learn. If you had a bike that was electric start and kickstart and you used this, it would then become wireless start and kickstart, correct? Installing something like this shouldn't affect the kickstart because it's mechanical, not electrical?
Not a stupid question, but also one that should be clarified. The m-Lock does not work with the starter system for the bike, this is basically just an ignition key switch replacement. Meaning that a standard motorcycle has a key that is put in a lock and turned, but with the m-Lock when you pass the fob near the pick-up reader it will turn the bike on. The rest of the operation of the motorcycle will be the same as it normally would be.
how do i assemble the fuse holder? its the same as the motoscope, they just give it to you in pieces and tell you its important without telling you how to put it together
I would throw it out and get yourself a good blade fuse holder. Those out dated glass tube fuses are fickle and can break off where you can't see it, leading you to believe a bad fuse is still good.
No. The momentary switches do require the m.Unit or other control module to function but the lights and gauges to not require an m.Unit. Many of the smaller motogadget modules like the various relays are individual components from the m.Unit broken out to provide features without requiring an entire rewire. -Berry
I was thinking is it better to wire the stock ignition key to power up the m-unit module? So we will need the stock key and also the fob to turn on the bike, that will be extra security for the bike don't you agree?
I guess you could wire in two ignition keys, but generally I don't see the need for that. Motorcycle thieves don't waste time trying to hot-wire a bike. They show up with a trailer and physically take it in less than 10 seconds. Then deal with any security / lock issues after they are back to a safe place. But if you wanted to setup this way, you would wire both in series, not parallel.
i would love to get this installed on my suzuki tux, but do you think it might be complicating things since my tu250x needs a key for steering lock, gas cap lock, and helmet lock?
In a situation like yours it might not make a lot of sense. You're going to have to carry keys anyway and this would just complicate the electrical system unnecessarily.
@@RevivalCycles thanks, one last question, instead of swiping the key, and putting the key back in your pocket as you mentioned in the video, could i technically leave the key on the sensor, and when i'm done riding, take it off to turn off the bike?
That is one way to do it, the other way is to look at the wire diagram and figure out what each of those wire pairs does, and then simplify it. There is no simple rule to follow, but many times, the ignition lock is setup to run parking lights which means there are two lighting circuits that are activated at different key positions. Since parking lights are almost never actually used and only included for government regulations its fine to simplify this and run it with a single relay. In the case of a ground circuit in addition to the positive circuit, like with a CDI bike, then yes definitely two relays.
kind of a silly question, but can you still use a traditional key ignition system along with the m-lock? for the "just in case the m-lock isn't working" cases you aren't stranded and can just start your bike with the good ole fashion key.
yep. that is no problem. The install might be a little different, and you would likely lose the parking light feature if you are working with a stock harness. But if using an m-Unit then it really doesn't make any difference if you have more than one ignition switch.
got it. I was planning on using the m-unit to help with the wiring and then have a key as a failsafe in addition to the m-lock. just wanted to make sure one didn't over ride the other.
Hi Dave, no you can't but if you're going that far already it's really easy to reverse the polarity on old British bikes. There are lots of detailed explanations on how to this online or you can email our techsupport and they'll get you sorted out.
Ok this should have incorporated a system that was a little wider in operation and have it so it only keeps the ignition on while the fob is within a certain distance from the ignition. That way no one would be able to take your bike away from you ie jacking or it would make it very difficult. ie outside of the field the ignition cuts out.
That is one way to do it, but there are some serious risks for malfunction and false tripping of the ignition cut out. That is why all the systems are setup to keep the ignition on until it is tuned off, then it cannot be turned on again. This is the same way it works on modern cars...and that is because of lawyers. Also, bike jacking is very uncommon where we live so there is very little need for this feature.
Yeh it used to be uncommon here as well but it's becoming a bit of a thing so we are lead to believe though as yet i'm yet to know anyone that this has happened to, I suspect it's more of a media frenzied load of bull crap. But it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a button you could push to shut it down should it get stolen off you while riding. But just as a thought, the fob could be rechargeable via a wireless coil so the fob would never run out of charge unless you wanted it to.
For some reason my bike won't do anything electrical wise without the kill switch wired. As per my custom build I want to get his but does this eliminate the need for the kill switch?
The m-Lock is a replacement for your ignition key switch that is used to turn the bike on and off. This doesn't really replace a kill switch because you can't turn it off quickly in an emergency situation, this devices is intended to be a key switch replacement only.
If you know where to find a lower cost RFID ignition switch that is as well built as the motogadget m-Lock please let us know. We do our best to find solutions that don't break the bank, but all too often you get what you pay for. Still nothing wrong with a standard ignition switch, just not quite as trick as the new tech.
I'm super late to this but there are specially made subdermal RFID transmitters, typically they are injected into the space between your thumb and pointer finger, closer to your pointer finger
Hi Fellas ¡¡ Good video I have a Key Go installed on my BMW R100 Cr and after a ride with the bike. The Blue Key has stopped working. It does not turn off the motorcycle. I have turn off the battery .Has it ever happened to you that the blue key is unprogrammed?. Have I program the blue key again ?? Thanks ¡¡
There are many reasons this could happen. We have not had an issue where the m-Lock will not turn off before, and it is unlikely that if the m-Lock turns on with the key, that the key will not turn it off. The more likely cause of this problem is that the ignition system for the engine is being powered by the charging system, even though the m-Lock is turned off. This is a situation that is easy to create on a BMW R-bike when the gen lamp is bypassed. In this case the charging system is able to directly power the ignition system, so once the engine is started there is no way to remove power from the ignition in order to stop the bike. Suggest double checking the way the m-Lock is installed, and make sure there is not a current path for the charging system to back feed into the ignition system.
The m-Lock can be installed on any motorcycle with a 12V electrical system, as long as the bike does not have an immobilizer security system built into the ECU and ignition switch.
It depends on a lot of variables. What engine, what temperature, for how many starts, after how many years, etc. The best way is to size the battery approprately for the application, and that means selecting a battery that does not drop below 9V during the starting cycle. As long as you can keep the voltage above 8 or 9 Volts you shouldn't have an issue with the m-Lock.
This slowly depletes the battery, correct? Is that an issue if ridden maybe once a week? Does it need constant power or else it will forget all keys? I'm really considering getting this part, just don't want a drained battery. I've got a Shorai LiFe battery.
Sure in theory it slowly drains the battery, but when the m-lock is in standby (off) it only draws 2mA which is .002 Amps so with an 8-cell antigravity (8 A-H rating) would take about 166 days or over 5 months to drain the battery. And if you are going to be leaving a bike un-ridden for more than two months you should have it on a battery tender and add stabilizer to the gas. The m-Lock does not forget the keys when power is removed.
With the m-Unit blue, it is recommended that you have a backup ignition switch in case there is an issue with the phone (lost, dead, broken) and the m-Lock is a nice option, but also you can use basic key switch, or hidden toggle switch.
the m-Lock is a passive RFID system, and so far we have not tried to use this with anything except for the fobs it is designed with. In theory if you have a device that could emulate a passive RFID tag then it should be possible to pair it. But again, we have not tried it, and are not sure if this is possible.
Nope, you don't need an m-Unit to use an m-Lock. The m-Lock can be used to replace a conventional ignition switch by incorporating the included 12V relay and then using the m-Lock to activate the relay. This type of install is covered in the manual on page 7. motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/mlock_manual_en_1.3.pdf
Interesting, I've never seen a bike that has an integrated wheel lock or any type of automated wheel / fork lock. This device is designed to address the electrical side of the system, and does not account for any mechanical functions.
I ride a 2005 Yamaha FZ6. I have two option when removing my key. One option would be two clicks to the left and the front wheel locks in place, and the other option is one click to the left and the front wheel remains unlocked.
Yes, the m-Lock can be used with or without the m-Unit. On conventional installs you use an included 12v relay to act as the ignition switch and the m-Lock is used to control the relay.
The m-Lock comes with a standard 12V relay that is used to replace the factory ignition switch, and then the m-Lock controls the coil on the relay. The relay is necessary because the m-Lock can not supply enough current for the entire motorcycle, but it does provide enough current to trigger a relay. There are some additional details in the manual motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/mlock_manual_en_1.3.pdf
Hi good job as always Just wondering what will happen if I forgot to swipe the key fab or glass tube off and walk away from the bike ? Does it turn the ignition down itself until the key fab come in range
The m-Lock system is what is known as a near field RFID, and that means it can only detect the fob when it is in very close proximity to the m-Lock (less than 1 inch or 25mm). So the way it works is that you swipe the fob, it turns the system on, and the system will stay on until you swipe the fob again to turn it off, or the battery goes flat.
There is no way to answer this question without knowing a lot of details. The best advice is to test the setup on the bench before making a permanent installation. We have installed the pickup in the upholstery of a seat, and behind some plastic components and that has worked well. We have also found that the pickup is very sensitive to any amount of metal that is between it and the fob.
Very helpful! thanks guys! I'm not having a battery on my 1966 Triumph TR6R Bobber, just a capacitor so I think it's a good idea not to use this. Cheers from UK
this key does not work with big inch engines even if you use the compensator pack to maintain the voltage to the reader when engine takes all the power to start. 1 of 10 times it works. wery good videos :)
When the m-Lock drops out due to a large engine during starting it is an indication that the battery is undersized for the application. All battery technology has limit to how low the voltage should drop during cranking, generally around 10v is as low as a battery should drop for a healthy battery / starter / engine combination. The m-Lock stops working below 8v, if you are pulling the battery below 8v the m-Lock not working is a symptom of a different problem, not the cause.
Hi! I'm having an issue with my (second) M-lock. I replaced my other one when this issue occurred. So... I go to start up the bike (BMW r100rt) like I always do, with the m-lock normal fob and nothing happens. I flashed it with the master and LEDs only do a half cycle and power cuts out. I flash it again and it does a full cycle, ends with the top two LEDs lit but only for a split second, then it dies. I can do this over and over and it never sticks. Battery has a full charge, I swear everything is connected correctly as everything worked for about 2 months after I replaced the old one but now I have the same issue. Has anyone experienced this ? Driving me Insane!!!!!
Hi i have had a similar problem. I bought a bike with a m-lock system and after a year or so the fob stopped working. My bike did not come with the red master fob so i had to replace the m-lock with a new system with a master fob. 3 weeks after the m-lock was replaced my new fob stopped working also :/ The master key worked and I just replaced the fob and reprogrammed it. Still a hassle and nothing but trouble. I would not recommend the m-lock to anyone
Ok, so, don't freak out. You could put it in a glove. If you only have one set of gloves. Or in the sleeve of your jacket. If you only have one jacket. OR you could implant it in your hand. I only have one set of hands. Look, I know, but it's the future man.
Yes, this is all possible. The small glass tube key is basically the same thing as a "chip" that gets implanted in pets, and we have heard reports of people implanting them in their hand. BUT, we have not tried this and cannot recommend implanting. However, it does work to have the RFID tags or glass tubes stitched into gloves and jackets.
Or you could just use the m-lock to enable/disable a fuel pump, ECU, ignition box, starter circuit, fuel injector wiring loom, coil-on-plug wiring loom, the wife's favorite vibrator, etc etc etc. I've done this to all bikes & cars that I own. All I gotta do now is install some hidden cameras and laugh till I'm blue when a thief is completely dumbfounded by the inability to get anything fired up. Profit.
I wish I could speak Spanish well enough to add subtitles... at this point I can't do much more than order a beer with my Spanish skills :) We will take a look to see if there is a way we can add subtitles.
click on closed caption, then click on settings, subtitles/cc,then autotranslate to spanish. Translation: haga clic en subtítulos, luego haga clic en configuración, subtítulos / cc, luego realice la traducción automática al español
I, legit, cannot get over how helpful your videos, your channel, and your shop are. I'd buy you guys more beer than you'd know what to do with.
I was literally saying to myself " I hope these guys do a video on the m-lock" just a few days ago. Keep those videos coming guys.
Hi Stefan,
To you guys i would mention something about key fob: This whole terme generally refer to proximity acces generator that can be keep in pocket, they work with an embedded battery, but in this case it's RFID wich first differ in distance of usage, this need to be put right close to the reader, nearly in contac, also because they don't have an embedded battery, they are powered by the reader when close to it, of course watching this video show this matter of distance, but just using the terme key fob can confuse. Thoses tokens should be called "RFID Key tag".
Hope this help.
THX for the Tech Talk
If your up for suggestions, I would love to see a video on the motoscope mini and your LED headlight.
super helpful information, very well explained and demonstrated
Glad it was helpful!
Great channel!
Thx for your time.
Greatings, Xavier/Belgium
That ducati is beautiful!
After 2yrs of using mlock, my blue fob didn't recognized by the reader, but my master key is still working... do i need to replace the whole unit? or just the fob? can i use ordinary rfid tag with 125khz?
It was mentioned that you have to use the thought to turn the bike on and off? There is no setting that the bike automatically turns off when you like a switch to turn it off ?
It makes more sense to use the fob only for unlocking and have a switch on the bike to lock ?
Another solution for problem battery is to have a small backup battery for the M-unit coupled with a diode to ensure that current will only feed the unit and other side the bike charging system will still charge the backup battery
yep, that works, or the same idea but with a capacitor. We've tested that and it works well...the secret is the diode. BUT I still don't recommend this solution because it is just covering up the real problem. If the m-Lock is dropping out it is because the battery is not strong enough and the battery is being damaged during the starting operation. The better solution is to get a larger capacity battery.
Hey! what are the other suggestions you have to resolve the power withdraw ? i have a 2015 Vulcan S and wanted to installed the M-lock without the M-Unit. I have the Scorpio I-800 with perimeter sensor & ignition disabler on another bike and i kept coming across the dead battery problem. The battery wouldn't last more than 3 days if the bike wasn't being used. So i had to put on a separate on and off switch just for the security system. I don't want to do that if i get the M-lock because it'll require me to constantly reprogram the keys and that defeats the purpose of getting the unit. If you can share the tips or solutions you found that would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, great video as always. Can the m-lock have a switch in the circuit? As in swipe to get the power on, but a simple momentary switch to power down rather than need to swipe again?
That is a very good idea, but although the m-Lock is not intended to be setup that way, I think should work fine if you can get a normally closed momentary switch on the power input to the m-Lock. This way when you push the momentary button it breaks contact with the power supply forcing the m-Lock to shut down. Then when you release power, the m-Lock is still off but ready to be reactivated with the RFID fob.
The one down side is that it can be tricky to find a momentary switch that is normally closed. For some reason the majority of push button switches are only available as normally open.
Hi Stephan & Revival cycles, I have installed the M-Lock on my K100 build, when I swith it off the ignition still turn over when pressing the mo switch start button. Have I got something wrong here?
Awesome video Thanks now i can look at a bike but whatever where the keys are Cheers
is it possible to set the m-unit blue= so that it can start with the RFID key or if it senses your phone near by?
Another great video guys. You are mo go to for these things. Damn shame you are not in Australia or I would be buying from you. I am now sold on one of these and I'd want to locate the M-Lock in a headlight bucket. The whole things metal. Will it still work? Could I put a timber plate in and mount it under that?
This guy's beard means he can handle any task Revzilla can throw at him
Question is, how much money would it cost Revzilla to handle any task we threw at them?
Great video that’s for the info . Also that’s sweet 🧔🏽beard!
Hi, i got a cbx1000 '81. I want to install the m lock. But i have a wire that goes to the regulator from my ignition key. Can i connect the m lock to the regulator? Or should i just connect the m lock to the m unit and then use the ignition or aux output to connect to the regulator?
This may be a very stupid question, but I barely know anything about motorcycles and I'm trying my best to learn. If you had a bike that was electric start and kickstart and you used this, it would then become wireless start and kickstart, correct? Installing something like this shouldn't affect the kickstart because it's mechanical, not electrical?
Not a stupid question, but also one that should be clarified. The m-Lock does not work with the starter system for the bike, this is basically just an ignition key switch replacement. Meaning that a standard motorcycle has a key that is put in a lock and turned, but with the m-Lock when you pass the fob near the pick-up reader it will turn the bike on.
The rest of the operation of the motorcycle will be the same as it normally would be.
Revival Cycles Thank you so much for clearing that up for me. Thanks for the videos too, they are super helpful!
Do we have that product here in Philippines?
Nice product, keep it up
I'm not sure if there's a dealer there. But I believe we will ship there.
how do i assemble the fuse holder? its the same as the motoscope, they just give it to you in pieces and tell you its important without telling you how to put it together
I would throw it out and get yourself a good blade fuse holder. Those out dated glass tube fuses are fickle and can break off where you can't see it, leading you to believe a bad fuse is still good.
The capacitor is in option. What is it's usefulness ? !thanks
Works this M-Lock unit on my Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans 2 1980 ?
Great channel, I have a question a little stupid... In order to use any accessory of motogadget it is necessary to have the unit m-unit?
No. The momentary switches do require the m.Unit or other control module to function but the lights and gauges to not require an m.Unit. Many of the smaller motogadget modules like the various relays are individual components from the m.Unit broken out to provide features without requiring an entire rewire.
-Berry
I assume your trick about the voltage drop involves an capacitor and an diode ?
I was thinking is it better to wire the stock ignition key to power up the m-unit module?
So we will need the stock key and also the fob to turn on the bike, that will be extra security for the bike don't you agree?
I guess you could wire in two ignition keys, but generally I don't see the need for that. Motorcycle thieves don't waste time trying to hot-wire a bike. They show up with a trailer and physically take it in less than 10 seconds. Then deal with any security / lock issues after they are back to a safe place. But if you wanted to setup this way, you would wire both in series, not parallel.
Where do I get programable glass tube rfid reader? Can i use any third party?
Im using Mo lock NFC.. Any alternative for this one?
With m-unit blue, is this a good idea for a backup Incase cell phone with Bluetooth is dead?
You do need some sort of back up means to start the bike whether that be an m.Lock, traditional key switch, hidden latching button or toggle.
Hello can anybody help me I’ve lost my fob that starts the bike but still have the master fob is there anything I can do ?
Yes. Please email websales@revivalcycles.com and we can help you.
i would love to get this installed on my suzuki tux, but do you think it might be complicating things since my tu250x needs a key for steering lock, gas cap lock, and helmet lock?
In a situation like yours it might not make a lot of sense. You're going to have to carry keys anyway and this would just complicate the electrical system unnecessarily.
@@RevivalCycles thanks, one last question, instead of swiping the key, and putting the key back in your pocket as you mentioned in the video, could i technically leave the key on the sensor, and when i'm done riding, take it off to turn off the bike?
I am from Germany and have a immobilizer how do I bypass it ?
A lot of guys actually in plantar Patty chips in their hand I plan on doing this and if I do I'm definitely getting one of these for my bike
Awesome! So glad you made this video. Also do you sell these at your shop? I would like to stop by and pick one up.
+Christian Guerrero We have them in stock at the shop! Feel free to swing by any day during the week between 10-5 and grab one.
If you're replacing an ignition lock with more than two wires, would the solution be to add as many relays as you have wire pairs?
That is one way to do it, the other way is to look at the wire diagram and figure out what each of those wire pairs does, and then simplify it. There is no simple rule to follow, but many times, the ignition lock is setup to run parking lights which means there are two lighting circuits that are activated at different key positions. Since parking lights are almost never actually used and only included for government regulations its fine to simplify this and run it with a single relay.
In the case of a ground circuit in addition to the positive circuit, like with a CDI bike, then yes definitely two relays.
kind of a silly question, but can you still use a traditional key ignition system along with the m-lock? for the "just in case the m-lock isn't working" cases you aren't stranded and can just start your bike with the good ole fashion key.
yep. that is no problem. The install might be a little different, and you would likely lose the parking light feature if you are working with a stock harness. But if using an m-Unit then it really doesn't make any difference if you have more than one ignition switch.
got it. I was planning on using the m-unit to help with the wiring and then have a key as a failsafe in addition to the m-lock. just wanted to make sure one didn't over ride the other.
Does the m-lock operate as a temporary button press when you swipe the key fob over it or as a toggle switch?
The m-Lock functions as a latching switch. One swipe to turn it on, then a second swipe to turn it off.
Hi i have 73Norton can I use moto gadget products on a POSITIVE EARTH bike? Dave
Hi Dave, no you can't but if you're going that far already it's really easy to reverse the polarity on old British bikes. There are lots of detailed explanations on how to this online or you can email our techsupport and they'll get you sorted out.
Ok this should have incorporated a system that was a little wider in operation and have it so it only keeps the ignition on while the fob is within a certain distance from the ignition.
That way no one would be able to take your bike away from you ie jacking or it would make it very difficult.
ie outside of the field the ignition cuts out.
That is one way to do it, but there are some serious risks for malfunction and false tripping of the ignition cut out. That is why all the systems are setup to keep the ignition on until it is tuned off, then it cannot be turned on again. This is the same way it works on modern cars...and that is because of lawyers. Also, bike jacking is very uncommon where we live so there is very little need for this feature.
Yeh it used to be uncommon here as well but it's becoming a bit of a thing so we are lead to believe though as yet i'm yet to know anyone that this has happened to, I suspect it's more of a media frenzied load of bull crap.
But it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a button you could push to shut it down should it get stolen off you while riding.
But just as a thought, the fob could be rechargeable via a wireless coil so the fob would never run out of charge unless you wanted it to.
For some reason my bike won't do anything electrical wise without the kill switch wired. As per my custom build I want to get his but does this eliminate the need for the kill switch?
The m-Lock is a replacement for your ignition key switch that is used to turn the bike on and off. This doesn't really replace a kill switch because you can't turn it off quickly in an emergency situation, this devices is intended to be a key switch replacement only.
SOOOO Expensive! guess my vintage bike will have a "vintage" key.
If you know where to find a lower cost RFID ignition switch that is as well built as the motogadget m-Lock please let us know. We do our best to find solutions that don't break the bank, but all too often you get what you pay for.
Still nothing wrong with a standard ignition switch, just not quite as trick as the new tech.
What happens with the padlock on the handle?
Thanks a lot.
it woukd be amazing if you can put the little sensor trough your skin
Alright satan. Calm down...
I'm super late to this but there are specially made subdermal RFID transmitters, typically they are injected into the space between your thumb and pointer finger, closer to your pointer finger
Hi Fellas ¡¡ Good video
I have a Key Go installed on my BMW R100 Cr and after a ride with the bike. The Blue Key has stopped working. It does not turn off the motorcycle. I have turn off the battery .Has it ever happened to you that the blue key is unprogrammed?. Have I program the blue key again ?? Thanks ¡¡
It is not clear if you are using the m-Lock with the blue key fob, or the m-Unit with Keyless-go.
Revival Cycles Thanks !! I use m-lock
Hi Thanks ¡¡ I use m-lock
There are many reasons this could happen. We have not had an issue where the m-Lock will not turn off before, and it is unlikely that if the m-Lock turns on with the key, that the key will not turn it off.
The more likely cause of this problem is that the ignition system for the engine is being powered by the charging system, even though the m-Lock is turned off. This is a situation that is easy to create on a BMW R-bike when the gen lamp is bypassed. In this case the charging system is able to directly power the ignition system, so once the engine is started there is no way to remove power from the ignition in order to stop the bike.
Suggest double checking the way the m-Lock is installed, and make sure there is not a current path for the charging system to back feed into the ignition system.
Thanks you so much ¡¡
does the m-Lock work with my Buell 1125r?
Verry good videos, plz keep them coming. :)
The m-Lock can be installed on any motorcycle with a 12V electrical system, as long as the bike does not have an immobilizer security system built into the ECU and ignition switch.
They should make a wristband. Much cooler and easy to carry.
Great idea.
What is the smallest battery that won't have the problem with this system?
It depends on a lot of variables. What engine, what temperature, for how many starts, after how many years, etc. The best way is to size the battery approprately for the application, and that means selecting a battery that does not drop below 9V during the starting cycle. As long as you can keep the voltage above 8 or 9 Volts you shouldn't have an issue with the m-Lock.
What do we do with the original ignition lock?
You toss it in the bin.
This slowly depletes the battery, correct? Is that an issue if ridden maybe once a week? Does it need constant power or else it will forget all keys? I'm really considering getting this part, just don't want a drained battery. I've got a Shorai LiFe battery.
Sure in theory it slowly drains the battery, but when the m-lock is in standby (off) it only draws 2mA which is .002 Amps so with an 8-cell antigravity (8 A-H rating) would take about 166 days or over 5 months to drain the battery. And if you are going to be leaving a bike un-ridden for more than two months you should have it on a battery tender and add stabilizer to the gas.
The m-Lock does not forget the keys when power is removed.
Thanks!
If I drain my battery because Im stupid and left my headlight on... Does it forget the key? Does anyone have any experience with this?
I also would like to know this
can i use my master key to start my bike if i lost my other key
The master key is used only for programming the actual key. It is not able to turn the bike on/off.
What happens when used with m blue unit? Do I still use this or can I just use the phone to turn ignition on?
With the m-Unit blue, it is recommended that you have a backup ignition switch in case there is an issue with the phone (lost, dead, broken) and the m-Lock is a nice option, but also you can use basic key switch, or hidden toggle switch.
What about NFC capable watches and phones. Can they be used to work with this unit?
the m-Lock is a passive RFID system, and so far we have not tried to use this with anything except for the fobs it is designed with. In theory if you have a device that could emulate a passive RFID tag then it should be possible to pair it. But again, we have not tried it, and are not sure if this is possible.
If you want to use a phone or smart watch, the m unit blue might be a better idea?
Do I need an M-Unit to make this function on my 03 Honda Shadow Sabre?
Nope, you don't need an m-Unit to use an m-Lock. The m-Lock can be used to replace a conventional ignition switch by incorporating the included 12V relay and then using the m-Lock to activate the relay. This type of install is covered in the manual on page 7. motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/mlock_manual_en_1.3.pdf
How does this device affect a bike in which the front wheel locks upon removal of the ignition key?
Interesting, I've never seen a bike that has an integrated wheel lock or any type of automated wheel / fork lock. This device is designed to address the electrical side of the system, and does not account for any mechanical functions.
I ride a 2005 Yamaha FZ6. I have two option when removing my key. One option would be two clicks to the left and the front wheel locks in place, and the other option is one click to the left and the front wheel remains unlocked.
Not the wheel, the handle bars are what locks on your bike
Have you had any experience putting carbon fiber between the reader and the fob ?
hi demoni, i have it instaled under the carbon seat and its working pretty well, even that my mechanic did warn me about it :) so good luck :)
Could this unit be used without the m-unit ?
Cheers
Yes, the m-Lock can be used with or without the m-Unit. On conventional installs you use an included 12v relay to act as the ignition switch and the m-Lock is used to control the relay.
How do you wire it on a bike not equipped with the M Unit?
The m-Lock comes with a standard 12V relay that is used to replace the factory ignition switch, and then the m-Lock controls the coil on the relay. The relay is necessary because the m-Lock can not supply enough current for the entire motorcycle, but it does provide enough current to trigger a relay. There are some additional details in the manual motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/mlock_manual_en_1.3.pdf
will the Mlock work properly in royalenfield 500 efi bike ?
Yes, but if you are not using an m-Unit with it, you will need to use the included 12V relay to replace the stock ignition switch.
Revival Cycles can i get this in india??
Check with websales@revivalcycles.com but I'm pretty sure we've shipped to india before.
What's the range for the glass tube key?
The glass tube needs to be very close, normally less than 15mm or ~1/2"
good viedeo
Hi good job as always
Just wondering what will happen if I forgot to swipe the key fab or glass tube off and walk away from the bike ? Does it turn the ignition down itself until the key fab come in range
The m-Lock system is what is known as a near field RFID, and that means it can only detect the fob when it is in very close proximity to the m-Lock (less than 1 inch or 25mm). So the way it works is that you swipe the fob, it turns the system on, and the system will stay on until you swipe the fob again to turn it off, or the battery goes flat.
Revival Cycles
Hello, is it can still actuated if we put the pickup reader under the fairing/dashboard and swipe/tap the fob on the dashboard?
There is no way to answer this question without knowing a lot of details. The best advice is to test the setup on the bench before making a permanent installation. We have installed the pickup in the upholstery of a seat, and behind some plastic components and that has worked well. We have also found that the pickup is very sensitive to any amount of metal that is between it and the fob.
Very helpful! thanks guys! I'm not having a battery on my 1966 Triumph TR6R Bobber, just a capacitor so I think it's a good idea not to use this. Cheers from UK
this key does not work with big inch engines even if you use the compensator pack to maintain the voltage to the reader when engine takes all the power to start. 1 of 10 times it works. wery good videos :)
When the m-Lock drops out due to a large engine during starting it is an indication that the battery is undersized for the application. All battery technology has limit to how low the voltage should drop during cranking, generally around 10v is as low as a battery should drop for a healthy battery / starter / engine combination. The m-Lock stops working below 8v, if you are pulling the battery below 8v the m-Lock not working is a symptom of a different problem, not the cause.
Hi! I'm having an issue with my (second) M-lock. I replaced my other one when this issue occurred. So... I go to start up the bike (BMW r100rt) like I always do, with the m-lock normal fob and nothing happens. I flashed it with the master and LEDs only do a half cycle and power cuts out. I flash it again and it does a full cycle, ends with the top two LEDs lit but only for a split second, then it dies. I can do this over and over and it never sticks. Battery has a full charge, I swear everything is connected correctly as everything worked for about 2 months after I replaced the old one but now I have the same issue.
Has anyone experienced this ? Driving me Insane!!!!!
I guess the 1 amp fuse isn't enough. Fuse is intact but reader is dead apparently. Going w/ a classic key switch instead.
Hi i have had a similar problem. I bought a bike with a m-lock system and after a year or so the fob stopped working. My bike did not come with the red master fob so i had to replace the m-lock with a new system with a master fob. 3 weeks after the m-lock was replaced my new fob stopped working also :/ The master key worked and I just replaced the fob and reprogrammed it. Still a hassle and nothing but trouble. I would not recommend the m-lock to anyone
Ok, so, don't freak out. You could put it in a glove. If you only have one set of gloves. Or in the sleeve of your jacket. If you only have one jacket. OR you could implant it in your hand. I only have one set of hands. Look, I know, but it's the future man.
Yes, this is all possible. The small glass tube key is basically the same thing as a "chip" that gets implanted in pets, and we have heard reports of people implanting them in their hand. BUT, we have not tried this and cannot recommend implanting.
However, it does work to have the RFID tags or glass tubes stitched into gloves and jackets.
Or you could just use the m-lock to enable/disable a fuel pump, ECU, ignition box, starter circuit, fuel injector wiring loom, coil-on-plug wiring loom, the wife's favorite vibrator, etc etc etc.
I've done this to all bikes & cars that I own.
All I gotta do now is install some hidden cameras and laugh till I'm blue when a thief is completely dumbfounded by the inability to get anything fired up.
Profit.
PLEASE, YOU NEDD TO PUT SUBTITLES IN SPANISH, ALL THE WORLD NEDD . JAJJAAJ PLEASEEEEE
I wish I could speak Spanish well enough to add subtitles... at this point I can't do much more than order a beer with my Spanish skills :) We will take a look to see if there is a way we can add subtitles.
click on closed caption, then click on settings, subtitles/cc,then autotranslate to spanish.
Translation: haga clic en subtítulos, luego haga clic en configuración, subtítulos / cc, luego realice la traducción automática al español