You can't beat a bit of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) I have used a lot of it over the years. Loving catching up on the old videos reminds me of twenty odd years ago running an off-road frame bug. People don't realize the forces involved when a fully loaded bug hits the deck after a 4 foot high ramp at race speeds...I've seen many rear ends torn apart due to some ultra light constructs and welds that look like they had been thrown at the metal from 5 feet away. Lovely work and I am enjoying the channel
Hello Dave, I still really like actually laying things out in person. Maybe that makes me sound old. But it's just easier that way. Thanks for the comment.
love the build !!! , never seen a u joint set up on long travel last very long , non greasable solid u joint lasted a little longer than the greasable , depending also on what you are using the car for , high speed dirt with the load and unload forces on a short shaft, running a 31 1050 on steel wheels is quite impressive, but if you just sunday drive put put on mountain trails they may last a long time
Peter Duerinck, The U Joint driveshafts are somewhat experimental. This bug will be used on slow mountain trails so I'll keep an eye on them. Thanks for the points, and for watching.
If you have tire size and ft wheel to back wheel the arm are separated depending on length of arms ck out suspension tape on rock rod there is a formula I didn't no u gilli read it ck it out pretty cool learning
What was the final track width, mounting flange to mounting flange, front and rear? I’ve watched all your video and don’t believe I ever heard you say. I really like the look of Mauler. It doesn’t look too wide. It looks just right.
Mauler is 95" wheelbase front to rear. The front is 70" outside of tires, 62" centerline of tires. Front tires are 31" x 9.5" wide. Rear is 77" outside of tires, 66.5" centerline of tires. Rear tires are 33" x 10.5" wide. I don't have flange to flange width, but I hope this info get's you what you need.
Trying to only run heims where absolutely necessary because they are expensive. I will be using bigger joints on the new chassis. Thanks for the comment and ideas.
Just saw this comment, UA-cam held it for review for some reason. I did check out the Rock Rod info. Some pretty good info in there, thanks for the tip!
Boxed is easier to be accurate and precise. You can lay out the top and bottom pieces and design it to whatever you need it to be. Then just make the side pieces and weld it together. Tube you are typically limited by the bend radiuses, so it becomes difficult to make it to what you need exactly. If it's a simpler design they go with tube, but these arms needed to be precise. So boxed was the way to go.
Hello Paco, that plasma cutter is made by TurboTorch and it's their 120v model. However it's really old (20 years) and I'm pretty sure they discontinued it years ago.
Thanks. And i am literally following your rear suspension geometry design and the rear knuckle design and also i'm thinking of going for the type of combo of UJ and spline for drive shaft that you came up with. Thanks man for such videos, really useful. And the way you fabricate things, for a student like me is just awesome. Continue doing such videos.
That's great, I'm glad the videos can help another builder out. If you go with U Joints remember to try and get the pivot points on the A Arm to match the pivot points of the U Joints. This keeps plunge on the driveshaft to a minimum and is much easier on your powertrain. Good luck with the build!
Tim, I do. I told you I would get construction paper to copy it last weekend and I forgot, sorry. I will get the paper tomorrow and trace them out so I can get you a set for the control arms and spindles.
Yeah if the terrain I drove in was open and flat with speed I would have lenghtened it. But the mountain trails I drive on are tight with a lot of 180 deg turns and the speeds don't get much over 30 mph. So being short helps it in that tight enviroment.
You only weld two inch's a side because of heat warp little here a little on the other side no more than three inch's weld heat warp a bitch myframe little welding three inch's at a time one side than other
Obviously cool RC buggy inspired design))
You're correct, Team Associated RC10. ✌
You can't beat a bit of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) I have used a lot of it over the years.
Loving catching up on the old videos reminds me of twenty odd years ago running an off-road frame bug.
People don't realize the forces involved when a fully loaded bug hits the deck after a 4 foot high ramp at race speeds...I've seen many rear ends torn apart due to some ultra light constructs and welds that look like they had been thrown at the metal from 5 feet away.
Lovely work and I am enjoying the channel
Hello Dave, I still really like actually laying things out in person. Maybe that makes me sound old. But it's just easier that way.
Thanks for the comment.
Outstanding video brother
Thanks!
Man this was amazing. Would be great if I could pay you to set mine up. Lol
Lol, unfortunately I don't have time to build mine and others.
I appreciate the awesome videos. I like the format; good mix of technical design and fabrication. Thank you!
Thorvald Moen, Thanks for the kind words and for watching. I appreciate that you appreciate. ;-)
Im currently building a ultra capable Myers makes body dunes buggy with pretty much your suspension design, cant wait to finish it
That's awesome! I'd love to see a Manx with H arm in the rear. Share some photos with me if you could. I'd love to see it.
dougbugbuilder@gmail.com
Very well done! I wish i could live there and give you some hand!
love the build !!! , never seen a u joint set up on long travel last very long , non greasable solid u joint lasted a little longer than the greasable , depending also on what you are using the car for , high speed dirt with the load and unload forces on a short shaft, running a 31 1050 on steel wheels is quite impressive, but if you just sunday drive put put on mountain trails they may last a long time
Peter Duerinck, The U Joint driveshafts are somewhat experimental. This bug will be used on slow mountain trails so I'll keep an eye on them. Thanks for the points, and for watching.
love your videos keep em coming
You do great work
Thanks Buddy.
If you have tire size and ft wheel to back wheel the arm are separated depending on length of arms ck out suspension tape on rock rod there is a formula I didn't no u gilli read it ck it out pretty cool learning
I'll look that up, thanks for the tip!
What was the final track width, mounting flange to mounting flange, front and rear?
I’ve watched all your video and don’t believe I ever heard you say.
I really like the look of Mauler.
It doesn’t look too wide. It looks just right.
Mauler is 95" wheelbase front to rear.
The front is 70" outside of tires, 62" centerline of tires. Front tires are 31" x 9.5" wide.
Rear is 77" outside of tires, 66.5" centerline of tires. Rear tires are 33" x 10.5" wide.
I don't have flange to flange width, but I hope this info get's you what you need.
@@DougBugBuilder I appreciate the reply amigo.
This info is perfect.
Thanks for all the inspiration.
Also run hiem joint in front two brk5s also jumbo joint on new frame
Trying to only run heims where absolutely necessary because they are expensive. I will be using bigger joints on the new chassis.
Thanks for the comment and ideas.
Subbed I am so glad I found this channel!
Glad to have you! Welcome to the channel.
What do you think about a rear trailing arm style for the front baja beam suspension?
They also can tell you how far forward the shocks go on topanc bottom uppér and lower formula they use and the size of the home joint please just look
Just saw this comment, UA-cam held it for review for some reason. I did check out the Rock Rod info. Some pretty good info in there, thanks for the tip!
I am a complete newb; why did you use a box design over building out of tube?
Boxed is easier to be accurate and precise. You can lay out the top and bottom pieces and design it to whatever you need it to be. Then just make the side pieces and weld it together.
Tube you are typically limited by the bend radiuses, so it becomes difficult to make it to what you need exactly. If it's a simpler design they go with tube, but these arms needed to be precise. So boxed was the way to go.
@@DougBugBuilder Thank you!
What model plasma cutting are u using? Thanks Paco
Hello Paco, that plasma cutter is made by TurboTorch and it's their 120v model. However it's really old (20 years) and I'm pretty sure they discontinued it years ago.
Doug, good day; could you sell the drawings or parts?
Tanks,
I don't have those designs saved, but anything I make from now on I have files for and will share the designs with.
@@DougBugBuilder hey you have any files saved yet!?
Why not run tube inside control arm and the top it off 100 percent stronger
what is that thing called in market that you welded and which holds the heim joint, coz I'm planning to go for that for our SAE BAJA buggy
They are called "Threaded Bungs" I got mine from Kartek Offroad.
Thanks for the comment and good luck on your build.
Thanks. And i am literally following your rear suspension geometry design and the rear knuckle design and also i'm thinking of going for the type of combo of UJ and spline for drive shaft that you came up with. Thanks man for such videos, really useful. And the way you fabricate things, for a student like me is just awesome. Continue doing such videos.
That's great, I'm glad the videos can help another builder out. If you go with U Joints remember to try and get the pivot points on the A Arm to match the pivot points of the U Joints. This keeps plunge on the driveshaft to a minimum and is much easier on your powertrain.
Good luck with the build!
Wat kind of hub are you using
Those are latest rage micro stub hub/brake kit. But essentially it's a hub from a Chevy S10 Blazer.
hey doug do you still have the template for the rear a arms and rear spindle on your bug?id like a copy of them if i could I'll pay for em.
Tim, I do. I told you I would get construction paper to copy it last weekend and I forgot, sorry. I will get the paper tomorrow and trace them out so I can get you a set for the control arms and spindles.
Doug Bug ok I thought you tube wasn't letting me post. Wasn't trying to bug u but thank you
Tim, I have the template. Email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com
You want to shorten the wheel base ok most want longer wheel base make a nice ride at speeds going over rough stuff
Yeah if the terrain I drove in was open and flat with speed I would have lenghtened it. But the mountain trails I drive on are tight with a lot of 180 deg turns and the speeds don't get much over 30 mph. So being short helps it in that tight enviroment.
Tickness of the plate?
.120" just under an 1/8".
I am cold.
You only weld two inch's a side because of heat warp little here a little on the other side no more than three inch's weld heat warp a bitch myframe little welding three inch's at a time one side than other