Thanks for your video, it has been very helpful, comments are also informative. As someone mentioned, I think it makes more sense to leave the color upstand outside the flue instead of inside. One could seal the joint with fire cement from a tube in doing so preserving the integrity of the flue liner.
Hi Clint I note your thoughts. Brick built chimneys have been used for many years. We have learned over time that the amount of ventilation / air changes applied to dwellings was far greater in days gone by. Along with loft/attic areas that housed a percentage of chimney, which allowed a natural area of drying that worked well enough with out bringing attention to damp conditions in the habitable parts of properties. With changes in lifestyle, Eg. constructing rooms in loft / attic, blocking up fireplaces, reducing air changes to save on fuel. Using less solid fuel heating systems etc. Has made any dampness entering the building visual. In an effort to address the problem sheet lead damp proof course were developed and installed during chimney construction. They work, which allows any water that penetrates the brickwork above the roof line to be denied access to habitable areas.
Hi. Kempouk i think you may not be familiar with the fitting of DPC trays to chimneys. The purpose being to prevent water entering the building via the exposed brick work. Nothing to do with soakers or indeed the chimney flashing other than using the front section to weather the front apron. As for the dog ear method of folding a corner this is the ONLY situation that it employed, for ease and know aesthetic requirement owing to its position in side the roof.
Terrific video but could you please explain the best way to do lead flashing when a pitched roof butts up against a wall at 90 degrees. The wall is plaster so the lead would be let in the plaster same angle as roof slope but how is the best way to cover ridge tile and should I use 300mm wide lead thanks.
Also, in cold weather, the chimney should be toasty with a good fire below which would minimize the chance of water accumulating but as the video shows the weep holes should take care of it.@@mcraigb1
If they didn't use cheap bricks and mix the right mortar and sand ratio then they wouldn't need that lead in the stack. Old houses never had it and how much damp do they get down the chimney u could say they used alot of solid fuel back then to dry it out . But still ppl switched to gas and no problems with them. Personally u got a weakness on the bricks as the cement mortsr won't key thst well to the lead u also go the problem of the holes blocking up with moss and that which will grow there cause it's going to be wet
@@justycrusty I know far more about it than u mate. New house have a big problem with wrong mix ratios that's y the ridges tiles blow off on newly built house. There no need for that lead in the stack at all plenty of houses don't have it no problems
Clint Eastwood8 Oh you reckon? Why does the NHBC advocate the use of lead trays through stacks then? Just because chimneys have survived for years without a lead dpc tray at the correct height, doesn’t mean to say they shouldn’t be used. Surely a progressive professional as yourself can appreciate the advantages. Anyway, what do I know after 32 years at it?
@@justycrusty I can see the other problems it can cause too . Plus it looks very unsightly . There loads of things they bought out on to the market before and then realised its a bad idea cause problems and had to change it
Clint Eastwood8 I’d rather look at a narrow band of lead around the stack than s big damp psych spreading across the ceiling to be honest. What other products are you talking about?
Love the weep hole trick
Thanks for your video, it has been very helpful, comments are also informative. As someone mentioned, I think it makes more sense to leave the color upstand outside the flue instead of inside. One could seal the joint with fire cement from a tube in doing so preserving the integrity of the flue liner.
always good to watch your vids, Peter. Just a shame they're not better quality
I had never realised how much thought has gone into the top of the chimney flashing. Brilliant idea the rope system for drainage.
Thanks Stephen
it looks neat enaf for me..!! and it worked fine on my new build home..!!
Hi Clint
I note your thoughts. Brick built chimneys have been used for many years. We have learned over time that the amount of ventilation / air changes applied to dwellings was far greater in days gone by. Along with loft/attic areas that housed a percentage of chimney, which allowed a natural area of drying that worked well enough with out bringing attention to damp conditions in the habitable parts of properties.
With changes in lifestyle, Eg. constructing rooms in loft / attic, blocking up fireplaces, reducing air changes to save on fuel. Using less solid fuel heating systems etc. Has made any dampness entering the building visual. In an effort to address the problem sheet lead damp proof course were developed and installed during chimney construction. They work, which allows any water that penetrates the brickwork above the roof line to be denied access to habitable areas.
Should never block up fire place like if u do u need a vent it . Same as u should never cap over a chimney stack without let it breathe
Nice trick with the weep holes.
Hi. Kempouk i think you may not be familiar with the fitting of DPC trays to chimneys. The purpose being to prevent water entering the building via the exposed brick work. Nothing to do with soakers or indeed the chimney flashing other than using the front section to weather the front apron. As for the dog ear method of folding a corner this is the ONLY situation that it employed, for ease and know aesthetic requirement owing to its position in side the roof.
Hi Thanks is not the be all and end all just the method i use. Good luck
I wish they built them with that kind of pan around these parts. That would be a solution to many troubling seepage leaks. Good video. Thanks!
Philadelphia Fiberglass Services ba
Terrific video but could you please explain the best way to do lead flashing when a pitched roof butts up against a wall at 90 degrees. The wall is plaster so the lead would be let in the plaster same angle as roof slope but how is the best way to cover ridge tile and should I use 300mm wide lead thanks.
Hello Sir
My builders and building inspectors like to upstand OUTSIDE not inside the liner. This keep liner uninterrupted intact with no gaps .
Impressive
That's the problem these day's. Want the masons to prevent leaky roofs. Built many from the fire box on up. Alot of overkill today.
Damp proof course
If I may ask, what does "DPC" stand for?
Damp proof course
I am assuming you do not put in a DPC like this on a tall 3 meter chimney that will be used constantly for wood coal burning ? I would melt yes ?
This thought crossed my mind also. I think I would put the color outside the liner for that reason. Any further ideas?
and... what will happen when the water in the chimney freezes? won't it expand and destroy the chimney?
The whole point of this is for the water to run out the weep holes and not stay in and freeze.
But when it does we keep work
Also, in cold weather, the chimney should be toasty with a good fire below which would minimize the chance of water accumulating but as the video shows the weep holes should take care of it.@@mcraigb1
What happens if those two seep holes get blocked with dirt, moss or debris from bird nesting materials etc...
so what happens when say Beetle ,mud wasp, spider, plugs the drain hole made buy your string - drain ? maybe time to reinvent this concept
the water will still make its way out through the joint between the lead and mortar plus the volume would be minimal in any case.
+hi
Tut, tut new work should be steps, good vid tho, wish brickies would watch something like this, they nearly always fit tray in wrong course.
You get up on the roof and fix it..!! Its just like a car it as to have a mot every 12mths..!!
If they didn't use cheap bricks and mix the right mortar and sand ratio then they wouldn't need that lead in the stack. Old houses never had it and how much damp do they get down the chimney u could say they used alot of solid fuel back then to dry it out . But still ppl switched to gas and no problems with them. Personally u got a weakness on the bricks as the cement mortsr won't key thst well to the lead u also go the problem of the holes blocking up with moss and that which will grow there cause it's going to be wet
Clint Eastwood8
You’re talking bollocks mate. Read the comment from Peter, I agree completely with his response
@@justycrusty I know far more about it than u mate. New house have a big problem with wrong mix ratios that's y the ridges tiles blow off on newly built house. There no need for that lead in the stack at all plenty of houses don't have it no problems
Clint Eastwood8
Oh you reckon?
Why does the NHBC advocate the use of lead trays through stacks then? Just because chimneys have survived for years without a lead dpc tray at the correct height, doesn’t mean to say they shouldn’t be used. Surely a progressive professional as yourself can appreciate the advantages. Anyway, what do I know after 32 years at it?
@@justycrusty I can see the other problems it can cause too . Plus it looks very unsightly . There loads of things they bought out on to the market before and then realised its a bad idea cause problems and had to change it
Clint Eastwood8
I’d rather look at a narrow band of lead around the stack than s big damp psych spreading across the ceiling to be honest. What other products are you talking about?
liners in wrong way around, on most flues well done