HI there! The masonry chimney crown is supposed to have a 1/4in to the foot of slope away from the flue tile. It is hard to see in the video because of the angle, but yes you are correct, there is supposed to be a slope to drain that water and snow melt off the top and drip free to the ground or roof! Thanks for commenting!
Excellent work! I have a question. I'm in PA climate area and my chimney looks like it was basically parged - that's gone. The flue liners look surprisingly good for 85 years old! But they only stick up about 2 1/2" above the top of the brick chimney. I would like to pour a nice concrete crown but would need to extend the flues??? Am I thinking this correctly? I'd like a good 3" - 4" crown, sloped of course. So do I just add approx. 6" to the flues? How much are they supposed to rise above the crown? And the mortar joint would be embedded in the new crown. What type mortar do I use to bond the flue sections? Please correct any of the above. Jeff
HI Jeff, that sounds correct. Use CONCRETE to build a new crown with the slope, etc (available at H Depot). The flue tile should stick up 2in above the new crown. The joint of the new-to-old flue tile should be joined with refractory mortar (available Amazon). Clay flue tiles can be purchased at local masonry brick yards. The most common size out here is 12 x12 OD. Now this might sorta undo what we just discussed above, but I wanted to answer your questions before giving my opinon. So now here is my opinion 🙂 Regarding the parged flue interior... that is great, but most certified sweeps will say it is not good, and I agree with them. Monoxide and heat transfer through tiny joints and we wish to fully contain all the byproducts all the way to the outside world... if you see raw clay brick and associated joints when looking down, not flue tiles, it is recommended to reline- with stainless steel. And the stainless steel tube has to be sized for the fireplace opening (in ratio, ex 1/12 ratio of flue is round). Call a local certified guy perhaps? Good luck!
@Midtownsweepsfranchise Thank you so much for your reply. Most "Tubers" honestly won't bother. Anyway, I may have confused you... the top of chimney brick, the crown, is what was parked, NOT the flue. The flue is clay tile in good shape. Wish I could send a pic.
@Midtownsweepsfranchise Also, is it suitable to have the refractory flue joint in the middle of my concrete crown, or do I need to cut the old flue below the level of the bottom of the new crown so that joint is not in the crown concrete? Thanks so much!
Pretty good work. Better crown than most.
Thanks man!
Why was that cap flat and not curved to let water shed??? Location?
HI there! The masonry chimney crown is supposed to have a 1/4in to the foot of slope away from the flue tile. It is hard to see in the video because of the angle, but yes you are correct, there is supposed to be a slope to drain that water and snow melt off the top and drip free to the ground or roof!
Thanks for commenting!
Awesome video!
Thanks man!
So, did you fix the gap (missing mortar) between the flue tiles?
You bet! We brought the whole fireplace and chimney back to code compliance! Good catch!
Yes we did! Thanks for checking up on me though! Have a good one.
Excellent work! I have a question. I'm in PA climate area and my chimney looks like it was basically parged - that's gone. The flue liners look surprisingly good for 85 years old! But they only stick up about 2 1/2" above the top of the brick chimney. I would like to pour a nice concrete crown but would need to extend the flues??? Am I thinking this correctly? I'd like a good 3" - 4" crown, sloped of course. So do I just add approx. 6" to the flues? How much are they supposed to rise above the crown? And the mortar joint would be embedded in the new crown. What type mortar do I use to bond the flue sections? Please correct any of the above.
Jeff
HI Jeff, that sounds correct. Use CONCRETE to build a new crown with the slope, etc (available at H Depot). The flue tile should stick up 2in above the new crown. The joint of the new-to-old flue tile should be joined with refractory mortar (available Amazon). Clay flue tiles can be purchased at local masonry brick yards. The most common size out here is 12 x12 OD.
Now this might sorta undo what we just discussed above, but I wanted to answer your questions before giving my opinon. So now here is my opinion 🙂
Regarding the parged flue interior... that is great, but most certified sweeps will say it is not good, and I agree with them. Monoxide and heat transfer through tiny joints and we wish to fully contain all the byproducts all the way to the outside world... if you see raw clay brick and associated joints when looking down, not flue tiles, it is recommended to reline- with stainless steel. And the stainless steel tube has to be sized for the fireplace opening (in ratio, ex 1/12 ratio of flue is round). Call a local certified guy perhaps?
Good luck!
@Midtownsweepsfranchise Thank you so much for your reply. Most "Tubers" honestly won't bother.
Anyway, I may have confused you... the top of chimney brick, the crown, is what was parked, NOT the flue. The flue is clay tile in good shape. Wish I could send a pic.
@Midtownsweepsfranchise Also, is it suitable to have the refractory flue joint in the middle of my concrete crown, or do I need to cut the old flue below the level of the bottom of the new crown so that joint is not in the crown concrete? Thanks so much!
@Midtownsweepsfranchise The flue isn't parged, sorry if I confused you. The top of the chimney crown was parged, no concrete crown.