Thanks to your video my older retired neighbor needed his done along with tuck pointing on his chimney. He was quoted $1000-$1300 from 3 companies. I decided to help him out and spent $30 on material and did the tuck pointing along with the cap in 4 hrs! Once again thanks for this informative video!
Ty, I'm doing this tomorrow and this helps a lot. My father used to do all the repairs but since he's passed, I wish I would have picked his brain for knowledge. Thxs again.
My old '50's magazines stress the importance of protecting the chimney from water damage by having a 2" crown overhang and an indented channel on the underside of the crown which breaks the capillary action of the water runoff.
I agree about the overhang, but as I've mentioned in other comments this design was already baked into the cake. Adding an overhang with corbeled bricks just below would look stupid. In the world of remodeling and repairs, you don't always get to choose the best option. Budgets and existing designs are a part of the decision process. Still, the original cap lasted decades, so that's not a bad run.
Good tip. I wish products like that were more available, though. Finding basic products (like galvanized mesh) locally is difficult enough. More and more I need to plan projects well in advance and purchase what I need online since retailers stock nothing.
This looks exactly like my 1983 house. I did not get a chance to fix it before it had to be sold. My previous 1944 house chimney crown is still like new. It was a solid couple inch slab of concrete with an overhang and a drip edge so the bricks never got the runoff. Super idea on their part. Could not have been THAT much more work. Wonder why they cut corners 40 years later, and just created a maintenance treadmill.
Agreed. An overhang is best and can make a real difference long term. There are many details like this which faded away as time went on, which is why newer houses often require more maintenance and don't last as long.
Craig Reid Yeah, I certainly need to spend some time on the brick work and ideally the crown is constructed with an overhang, but this will do given the circumstances. Hell, the last one was badly done and still lasted a few decades!
John, you rock! Thanks, that sounds easy enough! Climbed up on the roof again after I sent out last comment. Realized that the crown wasn't in as bad a shape as I had though. Problem I am having is that the 49" x 17" cap has a lot of gaps between the metal of the cap flange and the crown on the long sides as the crown is uneven. For now I have just screwed in the short sides (should hold fine until I figure out how to level the long edges so the gap isn't too wide. probably as much as inch in some parts). Contemplated leveling cement, but not sure that's a good idea. If you have any ideas, I'd appreciate it. I truly appreciate that you responded to my last comment. All the best, Carrie
+Carrie Coffey I don't really have a mental picture of what you're describing. If you want, contact me offline through my website (enduringcharm.com) and maybe you can send an actual picture of the issue. Then I might be able to offer better advice.
Hi John, Loved your video, it's exactly what I need to know about my cap that has plenty of cracks and is so uneven that I cannot install the new multi-flue knock down cap. Previously there was no cap. With El Nino set to visit, I wanted to be prepared. I was wondering if you could tell me how you attached the ply-wood form to the chimney? I will likely be doing the same crown as you, with the cement flush with the bricks since that is what it currently has. Thanks again for the great video, I hope to hear back from you, Carrie
+Carrie Coffey Basically you can cut the form close enough to the dimensions of the brick that screwing it together will keep it in place. Cut two of the four pieces (which will go on opposing sides) to a length no longer than a sixteenth of the actual brick dimension. The other two pieces you can run long. Screw together two "L" shaped sections using one of the cut-to-length pieces and one of the run-long pieces. Now you can place the two "L" sections on the chimney so that they come together as the four-sided form. You can use clamps to hold them in place until you screw them together. Another tactic would be to cut four pieces of the form basically to exact length of the brick, except that two of the four pieces will be longer enough to overlap the ends of the other two pieces. Now you can use a ratcheting strap to go around all four pieces and pull them tight against the brick. I find this tactic to be unwieldy up on a ladder, though, unless you have a helper.
Fantastic video - perfect crown work except for one thing that you may want to change. the 2012 IRC requires a drip edge for water runoff to keep water away from the top courses of brick.
+HearthMasters Yes, I think I mentioned in the video that I would prefer a drip edge. This particular chimney had been built 30 years ago with the top rows corbeled outwards and a drip edge would look pretty awful with that layout. It's exempt from current code in my jurisdiction because it is a repair of an existing structure, but if the layout was different I would definitely have extended the form outward and incorporated a drip edge. You can even build in a groove underneath the drip edge so that water can't flow back toward the brick by adding a small moulding to the form before you pour. Several companies make commercial forms that you can use too. Minus the drip edge it may not last as long and there's less protection for the brick.
Hey John! Not sure if you’ll see this but thank you for the video! Did you have to wait to let the aggregate mix dry before topping it with the sand mix? Or can the sand mix go on immediately after the aggregate? Thanks!
If you need a concrete mix with aggregate you'll want to at least let it set up long enough to become stable and able to be covered without blending with the sand mix. It doesn't need to be fully cured, though.
Over all a pretty good job with a new crown on a corbeled in chimney. Without changing the design it is probably about the best you can do. But what I recomend to customers when doing this is to remove the courses that step in then as long as you still have enough height pour a overhanging slab crown with drip edge. Doing that you can also do the proper bond break between the chimney and crown. But again with the design of the chimney this was done about as well as possible.
I agree--if time and budget allowed, a different design at the top would be a superior solution. This was a builder-special chimney with little concern about design. On the other hand, even this lesser design managed to last something like three decades. I would expect the repair to last at least 15-20 years, and at that time the homeowner can decide to upgrade the design. By then I would expect some repointing would be needed and perhaps failed bricks replaced too.
@@enduringcharm Yes I wasn't trying to be critical. Just wanted to let people know about another option for that type of chimney. We do ones similar to what you did if the customer won't let us change the top.
It's available anywhere they sell bags of concrete. The brand isn't important. It's just a liquid used in place of water which contains additives that promote strength and waterproofing.
This is very informative, I live in the UK my chimney is shared with my neighbor and we've been quoted $6,000 for reseating a pot and fixing the rendering on the stack, I think that's a ridiculous price. So after the $1,300 scaffolding goes up I'm having a look first. What cement mix ratio do you use for the capping?
Not sure if it's the same in the UK, but we have pre-mixed bags of mortar available. Unless you are working with an antique brick with on old, soft mortar, you could really use either type "N" or type "S" mortar. It's not super critical for the cap.
Fantastic repair & explanation. I’m an avid DIYer but I believe this is far from my skill set. Any advice when hiring a chimney company so that the work is done right?
I don't have a video for you, but I usually MacGyver something together out of plywood and 2x which fits the pitch of the roof and provides a flat surface for a ladder.
Hi there, Thank you for this video - it helped me with confidence to repair my own last weekend. I’ve just taken the form off and need to tidy up the edges. Did you just use a steel grinding wheel to tidy up the mortar edges or is there another type. Thank you in advance.
Great video with instructional comments, tips, and pics. I saw you placed rockwool in the crown gaps for a good reason. But the core holes in the top bricks were not filled with rockwool. Would this allow the cement to flow down the core by mistake. Or is this best practice to allow cement to fill in the core? Big thanks John.
The holes in the brick don't go very far down. They do provide some mechanical "grip" for the mortar, although they also make it more difficult to remove the crown for repairs later. I should mention that there are a million variations on these chimney caps so there isn't necessarily a rule of thumb for details. You have to make a judgement call based on the existing circumstances, the desired outcome, and the budget. in a perfect world I might have re-deigned the whole top of the chimney in this video, but budgets and time are real constraints. So, generally it's good to allow the mortar to get into those brick holes, but there could be reasons to avoid it too.
If your masonry flue is 400 degrees or more at the top of the chimney, you have a lot more to worry about than caulk! I applied that silicone on the outside of the masonry flue liner located maybe 18 feet from the firebox. A typical winter day when you have a fire going might be 32F degrees ambient temp. The underside of the metal chimney cap with the fire going might be 80-90F degrees max. The area where the silicone is located might be 10F degrees warmer than ambient temp. If you had a fire going all day and the sun was shining, maybe the silicone might be subject to 20F over ambient temps. In short, it's not even close to being a problem. I've seen clear silicone used on black asphalt shingle roof to seal nail heads. Black roof shingles can get 50-60F degrees over ambient temps, which means 140-150F degrees routinely during summer months in my climate. Silicone caulking usually lasts the life of the roof in that scenario.
I didn't built the crown however there was gap between crown and flue and I used a regular silicone caulk around the flue. now wondering if that would be a fire hazard, should i remove it and replace with high heat caulk or would this be fine? please advise? good job btw!
When I was in sales we had a phrase we used a lot: the FUD factor! FUD was an acronym for Fear Uncertainty and Doubt, which could be used to great advantage in sales and marketing situations to get people to buy your product or service. The FUD factor in construction products is always high! Regular silicone caulk sold for windows and doors has a wide service temperature range. According to the DAP product sheet for their clear silicone caulk, it is good for use between 40 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit. If your masonry chimney cap is over 400 degrees where it meets your masonry flue liner 20 feet above your fireplace, then you have bigger problems than your caulk! Believe me, you're fine.
FUD factor, nice! I agree 100% on this and i been a victim of this as I'm a new DIYer. its actually furnace/water-heater chimney and i used GE's kitchen silicone(100% silicone) caulk. I guess that should be fine as well. thanks for your prompt response!
I have a situation where the old flume for the furnace is all broken up and no longer operable or necessary, iI there anything in particular you would use to fill the void that void so I can cap it?
I take it your auto-correct kicked in and you meant to type "flue"? It's impossible to say without examining your particular circumstances but when a flue is abandoned in a chimney and there are still other flues operable the abandoned flue is generally not filled but, rather, capped off at either end. If there is no longer any operable flue then the chimney may be removed completely or taken down below the level of the roof. But, there are lots of variables that a mason would have to look at on site to make a decision. I'd suggest finding a local mason and having a conversation with him about the possibilities.
Generally speaking type "N:" is appropriate for brick joints above grade, but we have to be careful here. Older brick (like, antique) can be softer and require a lime based mortar. Repairs below grade on modern brick may require type "S" or "N" and interior work may use type "O". Just pay attention to the brick you are using and read the bag to make sure you've got the right type.
Thanks for sharing the video and the quick reply. I am aware of the different mortar uses for tuck pointing brick. Was curious if you used a premixed brick mortar for the crown, used a premixed sand mix like quickrete or made your own mix? I need to repair my crown before winter and was wondering what type of mix is recommended.
Oh, I see what you're asking. Well, it was a pre-mix bag but to be honest I don't recall exactly what it was. Typically when I'm in that situation I just grab the most appropriate mix available in whatever box store I'm visiting that day. Selection isn't always what I would wish! For the cap the more critical thing is the mortar admix which will help make it stronger and more water resistant. Again, you have to see what's available locally.
There are different methods depending on the circumstances, but clamping often works. You can screw the form together so it is tight to the brick, or you can use metal clamps, or you can use strap/band clamps.
fine workmanship! you need to invest in an electric chisel. when popping the crown off grab all of those old brick. its the best place to find original face brick. 4 " block should be used to build up to the crown in the interior of the chimney anyway. why didnt you smooth off the caulking?
The caulking in this case was actually two layers, and the second layer (showing) was installed as a bead to help shed water. The first layer was actually doing the sealing and was smoothed with a finger. In this instance the top of the crown did not show at all, so esthetics was not a concern.
There is indeed. I'm central western Jersey, and there are houses dating back to 1750 that I've had the pleasure of working on in my area. many of the old houses end up being "remuddled" or unmaintained, but when owners think of themselves as stewards of the history these houses can last for centuries.
I replied to your message--the form is just held in place by being screwed together tight enough to clamp the chimney. Size the form boards so that they are the same size or slightly smaller than the chimney sides.
Great video! I am sure your chimney crown will last many years. My chimney crown was made of precast concrete, but in many sections. The sections were joined together with mortar. The concrete looks great, is 2" thick with overhang, but the mortar has cracked. Could I just dismantle the sections and rebuild it (using the existing sections) with fresh mortar?
I've not seen a crown made that way, so I'm not certain I have a good answer for you. If it was constructed literally like bricks with mortar joints I suppose you could repoint the joints. But, I have to wonder if there is more to it, such as interlocking joints or some other structure. It seems odd to me not to have a monolithic structure to the cap. You should probably do some more research locally to see if somebody has more familiarity with this style.
I understand what you are talking about. The cap is precast but it has to chimneys so the cap I made in to C shapes the joint in the middle has mortar. I have a job I would like to do that is the same as your situation a d I am trying to decide what to do for the client too.
+Eddie Silberman I can't remember now, but it was a fair amount of work. Probably six or seven hours in total. It takes time just to set up the ladders, etc.
+Tim Rosell Took me a minute to understand your question--were you looking at the deck in the background? That was made by me many years ago. It's a custom railing made of cedar and some PVC trim on the posts. There are now some manufacturers of rail systems who will provide custom railings for a customer provided radius, but otherwise you are on your own. My railing was for a circular deck, though. No pool!
+Tim Rosell Very true--making a true circle means a lot more work and more materials. Like so many things in construction, the devil and the cost are in the details. That deck was put up 12 years ago or so, and I'm actually making some minor repairs to the railing right now so a video will follow!
I see radius on a 2 by 12' but I want bent poly material. Haven't see one nearby upstate New York yet. Old brick Victorian 1870s house with a circular porch. Uggh. #rehadaddict ; (
+Tim Rosell It is possible to bend certain types of PVC materials using specialized heat blankets. However, the material has little structural value, which gets tricky, and the cost isn't really any less than doing real wood. If you do use real wood, it is possible to cut some corners without seriously affecting the results. For example, fir can be used instead of more expensive woods if it is treated with preservative and painted well. You can also make railings out of two glued up layers and shorter lengths, which means the ability to use narrower stock to get your radius. Wish I was closer, sounds like the kind of project I love to do!
i just got the wood stove installed in my mothers fireplace and had water running down the insides of the chimney after starting it up. Stunk like awful. Went up on the roof the next day, today, to inspect and now i get to learn how to do this... lol Cracked like urs but worse by about 5 times. Its pretty thin honestly and probly wasnt done right to begin with
It's not a structural application in the sense of being weight bearing, so a bagged sand mix is fine. You can add fiber if you wish, but it isn't essential. I used latex admix which adds strength and waterproofing.
Why dont brick chimneys ever get caps poured that over hang the work so the water drips down rather then runs down the face? Hell if ur going through the hassel of fixing it why wouldnt u do it right
I did mention this in the video--a cap with a drip edge is preferable, I agree. In this particular chimney, though, a cap with an extended drip edge would have looked odd with the corbeled brick just below. There is always a balance between function and form.
+kevin willis I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "flex crown", perhaps you are referring to one of the latex masonry coatings? When the original crown gets this badly damaged there is a structural concern in addition to the water leakage. The original design assumes a solid crown that helps hold together the top of the structure as well as to shed water. Plus, there is an esthetic aspect of the repair because the crown does show from inside the house through windows as well as from below outdoors. Replacing the entire crown is the best structural solution and looks the best.
+enduringcharm I would imagine that when Kevin references a flex crown, I'm not certain, but he might be referring to coating the existing cracked crown with a type of elastomeric coating to cover over the cracks leaving the same basic structure shape as it was. You did a good job repairing what you did, and because there were some lose bricks on the walls of the fireplace, I think you did just what you needed to to correct any potential leaks.
+steve newbould I'm always amused at the different terms found regionally and internationally for the same tools and techniques. It's a miracle we can communicate at all!
Depending on physical access to the work and the chimney condition those might be options. However, if access is limited, or the footing by ladder or roof is marginal, or the condition of the chimney is poor, then speed is really less of a concern.
Thanks to your video my older retired neighbor needed his done along with tuck pointing on his chimney. He was quoted $1000-$1300 from 3 companies. I decided to help him out and spent $30 on material and did the tuck pointing along with the cap in 4 hrs! Once again thanks for this informative video!
That's a great story--I'm glad there are still helpful neighbors left in the world!
You did a great job & your new crown cover looks beautiful
Well done, both the craftsmanship and the video!
Thank you!
Nicely Done John! Very informative and explained in a manner that makes it easy to follow!
Ty, I'm doing this tomorrow and this helps a lot. My father used to do all the repairs but since he's passed, I wish I would have picked his brain for knowledge. Thxs again.
Great video, second video i watched about redoing the crown and perfect tips. 👍👍
I put steel in the tension position, putting steel in neutral does not keep it from cracking but only from pulling apart! 👍 nice job
My old '50's magazines stress the importance of protecting the chimney from water damage by having a 2" crown overhang and an indented channel on the underside of the crown which breaks the capillary action of the water runoff.
I agree about the overhang, but as I've mentioned in other comments this design was already baked into the cake. Adding an overhang with corbeled bricks just below would look stupid. In the world of remodeling and repairs, you don't always get to choose the best option. Budgets and existing designs are a part of the decision process. Still, the original cap lasted decades, so that's not a bad run.
a suggestion from PA. STAINLESS STEEL MESH is less prone to rusting under or in cements and concretes.
Good tip. I wish products like that were more available, though. Finding basic products (like galvanized mesh) locally is difficult enough. More and more I need to plan projects well in advance and purchase what I need online since retailers stock nothing.
Wish you lived here in Texas and I would hire you in a heartbeat!!
Great video.
Cap'n Jan
+Cap'n Jan Sometimes I wish I lived in Texas too! ;)
This looks exactly like my 1983 house. I did not get a chance to fix it before it had to be sold. My previous 1944 house chimney crown is still like new. It was a solid couple inch slab of concrete with an overhang and a drip edge so the bricks never got the runoff. Super idea on their part. Could not have been THAT much more work. Wonder why they cut corners 40 years later, and just created a maintenance treadmill.
Agreed. An overhang is best and can make a real difference long term. There are many details like this which faded away as time went on, which is why newer houses often require more maintenance and don't last as long.
Excellent and informative video. You are brave to be up there on a ladder with one hand holding a camera!
Arthur Beaudoin Brave or stupid--same thing, right? ;)
Very informative video, like you say maybe not exactly how it should be done but ideal for a quick repair.
Craig Reid Yeah, I certainly need to spend some time on the brick work and ideally the crown is constructed with an overhang, but this will do given the circumstances. Hell, the last one was badly done and still lasted a few decades!
Great video, very helpful to understand the issues.
John, you rock! Thanks, that sounds easy enough!
Climbed up on the roof again after I sent out last comment. Realized that the crown wasn't in as bad a shape as I had though. Problem I am having is that the 49" x 17" cap has a lot of gaps between the metal of the cap flange and the crown on the long sides as the crown is uneven. For now I have just screwed in the short sides (should hold fine until I figure out how to level the long edges so the gap isn't too wide. probably as much as inch in some parts). Contemplated leveling cement, but not sure that's a good idea. If you have any ideas, I'd appreciate it. I truly appreciate that you responded to my last comment.
All the best,
Carrie
+Carrie Coffey I don't really have a mental picture of what you're describing. If you want, contact me offline through my website (enduringcharm.com) and maybe you can send an actual picture of the issue. Then I might be able to offer better advice.
Thanks for the vid. Just the job I'm on to this week.
as always appreciate your efforts in videoing various projects.
Great video. This has been out there for a while but it’s great info.
About to undertake a 10' x 4' crown. Thanks for the video.
Hi John,
Loved your video, it's exactly what I need to know about my cap that has plenty of cracks and is so uneven that I cannot install the new multi-flue knock down cap. Previously there was no cap. With El Nino set to visit, I wanted to be prepared.
I was wondering if you could tell me how you attached the ply-wood form to the chimney? I will likely be doing the same crown as you, with the cement flush with the bricks since that is what it currently has.
Thanks again for the great video, I hope to hear back from you,
Carrie
+Carrie Coffey Basically you can cut the form close enough to the dimensions of the brick that screwing it together will keep it in place. Cut two of the four pieces (which will go on opposing sides) to a length no longer than a sixteenth of the actual brick dimension. The other two pieces you can run long. Screw together two "L" shaped sections using one of the cut-to-length pieces and one of the run-long pieces. Now you can place the two "L" sections on the chimney so that they come together as the four-sided form. You can use clamps to hold them in place until you screw them together.
Another tactic would be to cut four pieces of the form basically to exact length of the brick, except that two of the four pieces will be longer enough to overlap the ends of the other two pieces. Now you can use a ratcheting strap to go around all four pieces and pull them tight against the brick. I find this tactic to be unwieldy up on a ladder, though, unless you have a helper.
Fantastic video - perfect crown work except for one thing that you may want to change. the 2012 IRC requires a drip edge for water runoff to keep water away from the top courses of brick.
+HearthMasters Yes, I think I mentioned in the video that I would prefer a drip edge. This particular chimney had been built 30 years ago with the top rows corbeled outwards and a drip edge would look pretty awful with that layout. It's exempt from current code in my jurisdiction because it is a repair of an existing structure, but if the layout was different I would definitely have extended the form outward and incorporated a drip edge. You can even build in a groove underneath the drip edge so that water can't flow back toward the brick by adding a small moulding to the form before you pour. Several companies make commercial forms that you can use too. Minus the drip edge it may not last as long and there's less protection for the brick.
Excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Hey John! Not sure if you’ll see this but thank you for the video! Did you have to wait to let the aggregate mix dry before topping it with the sand mix? Or can the sand mix go on immediately after the aggregate? Thanks!
If you need a concrete mix with aggregate you'll want to at least let it set up long enough to become stable and able to be covered without blending with the sand mix. It doesn't need to be fully cured, though.
Over all a pretty good job with a new crown on a corbeled in chimney. Without changing the design it is probably about the best you can do. But what I recomend to customers when doing this is to remove the courses that step in then as long as you still have enough height pour a overhanging slab crown with drip edge. Doing that you can also do the proper bond break between the chimney and crown. But again with the design of the chimney this was done about as well as possible.
I agree--if time and budget allowed, a different design at the top would be a superior solution. This was a builder-special chimney with little concern about design. On the other hand, even this lesser design managed to last something like three decades. I would expect the repair to last at least 15-20 years, and at that time the homeowner can decide to upgrade the design. By then I would expect some repointing would be needed and perhaps failed bricks replaced too.
@@enduringcharm
Yes I wasn't trying to be critical. Just wanted to let people know about another option for that type of chimney. We do ones similar to what you did if the customer won't let us change the top.
Nice work and vid. What was the "latex add-mix" you mentioned around 11:15?
It's available anywhere they sell bags of concrete. The brand isn't important. It's just a liquid used in place of water which contains additives that promote strength and waterproofing.
This is very informative, I live in the UK my chimney is shared with my neighbor and we've been quoted $6,000 for reseating a pot and fixing the rendering on the stack, I think that's a ridiculous price. So after the $1,300 scaffolding goes up I'm having a look first. What cement mix ratio do you use for the capping?
Not sure if it's the same in the UK, but we have pre-mixed bags of mortar available. Unless you are working with an antique brick with on old, soft mortar, you could really use either type "N" or type "S" mortar. It's not super critical for the cap.
Nice job!
Fantastic repair & explanation. I’m an avid DIYer but I believe this is far from my skill set. Any advice when hiring a chimney company so that the work is done right?
Thanks for the video, starting my cap tomorrow, have any videos for building staging on the roof ridge?
I don't have a video for you, but I usually MacGyver something together out of plywood and 2x which fits the pitch of the roof and provides a flat surface for a ladder.
Thanks for the info, it's a confidence builder. You do nice work, btw.
Hi there,
Thank you for this video - it helped me with confidence to repair my own last weekend. I’ve just taken the form off and need to tidy up the edges. Did you just use a steel grinding wheel to tidy up the mortar edges or is there another type.
Thank you in advance.
You can purchase masonry grinding wheels at your local box store--you don't need much just to clean up a ragged edge.
Thank you that was very helpful
Great video with instructional comments, tips, and pics. I saw you placed rockwool in the crown gaps for a good reason. But the core holes in the top bricks were not filled with rockwool. Would this allow the cement to flow down the core by mistake. Or is this best practice to allow cement to fill in the core?
Big thanks John.
The holes in the brick don't go very far down. They do provide some mechanical "grip" for the mortar, although they also make it more difficult to remove the crown for repairs later. I should mention that there are a million variations on these chimney caps so there isn't necessarily a rule of thumb for details. You have to make a judgement call based on the existing circumstances, the desired outcome, and the budget. in a perfect world I might have re-deigned the whole top of the chimney in this video, but budgets and time are real constraints. So, generally it's good to allow the mortar to get into those brick holes, but there could be reasons to avoid it too.
Your silicon is good up to 400 degrees? I thought fire was a bit hotter than that. Seems light.
If your masonry flue is 400 degrees or more at the top of the chimney, you have a lot more to worry about than caulk! I applied that silicone on the outside of the masonry flue liner located maybe 18 feet from the firebox. A typical winter day when you have a fire going might be 32F degrees ambient temp. The underside of the metal chimney cap with the fire going might be 80-90F degrees max. The area where the silicone is located might be 10F degrees warmer than ambient temp. If you had a fire going all day and the sun was shining, maybe the silicone might be subject to 20F over ambient temps. In short, it's not even close to being a problem. I've seen clear silicone used on black asphalt shingle roof to seal nail heads. Black roof shingles can get 50-60F degrees over ambient temps, which means 140-150F degrees routinely during summer months in my climate. Silicone caulking usually lasts the life of the roof in that scenario.
Great video, thank you.
I didn't built the crown however there was gap between crown and flue and I used a regular silicone caulk around the flue. now wondering if that would be a fire hazard, should i remove it and replace with high heat caulk or would this be fine? please advise? good job btw!
When I was in sales we had a phrase we used a lot: the FUD factor! FUD was an acronym for Fear Uncertainty and Doubt, which could be used to great advantage in sales and marketing situations to get people to buy your product or service. The FUD factor in construction products is always high! Regular silicone caulk sold for windows and doors has a wide service temperature range. According to the DAP product sheet for their clear silicone caulk, it is good for use between 40 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit. If your masonry chimney cap is over 400 degrees where it meets your masonry flue liner 20 feet above your fireplace, then you have bigger problems than your caulk! Believe me, you're fine.
FUD factor, nice! I agree 100% on this and i been a victim of this as I'm a new DIYer. its actually furnace/water-heater chimney and i used GE's kitchen silicone(100% silicone) caulk. I guess that should be fine as well. thanks for your prompt response!
I have a situation where the old flume for the furnace is all broken up and no longer operable or necessary, iI there anything in particular you would use to fill the void that void so I can cap it?
I take it your auto-correct kicked in and you meant to type "flue"? It's impossible to say without examining your particular circumstances but when a flue is abandoned in a chimney and there are still other flues operable the abandoned flue is generally not filled but, rather, capped off at either end. If there is no longer any operable flue then the chimney may be removed completely or taken down below the level of the roof. But, there are lots of variables that a mason would have to look at on site to make a decision. I'd suggest finding a local mason and having a conversation with him about the possibilities.
Did you use Type N or Type S mortar or just a portland mix?
Generally speaking type "N:" is appropriate for brick joints above grade, but we have to be careful here. Older brick (like, antique) can be softer and require a lime based mortar. Repairs below grade on modern brick may require type "S" or "N" and interior work may use type "O". Just pay attention to the brick you are using and read the bag to make sure you've got the right type.
Thanks for sharing the video and the quick reply. I am aware of the different mortar uses for tuck pointing brick. Was curious if you used a premixed brick mortar for the crown, used a premixed sand mix like quickrete or made your own mix? I need to repair my crown before winter and was wondering what type of mix is recommended.
Oh, I see what you're asking. Well, it was a pre-mix bag but to be honest I don't recall exactly what it was. Typically when I'm in that situation I just grab the most appropriate mix available in whatever box store I'm visiting that day. Selection isn't always what I would wish! For the cap the more critical thing is the mortar admix which will help make it stronger and more water resistant. Again, you have to see what's available locally.
Thanks for the updated information.
How do you fix a wooden formwork to a brick wal, if the walls are even? Drill a brick?
There are different methods depending on the circumstances, but clamping often works. You can screw the form together so it is tight to the brick, or you can use metal clamps, or you can use strap/band clamps.
fine workmanship!
you need to invest in an electric chisel. when popping the crown off grab all of those old brick. its the best place to find original face brick.
4 " block should be used to build up to the crown in the interior of the chimney anyway.
why didnt you smooth off the caulking?
The caulking in this case was actually two layers, and the second layer (showing) was installed as a bead to help shed water. The first layer was actually doing the sealing and was smoothed with a finger. In this instance the top of the crown did not show at all, so esthetics was not a concern.
Diesel is great form oil just do a couple of coats on fresh plywood butyl is the longest lasting high temp sealant it's rubber in a tube 50 year
Very good information!
Outstanding Vid - You really know your stuff - any chance you live in San Diego Ca? or can recommend someone.
Thanks. I'm afraid I'm on the opposite coast, in Jersey. Ask neighbors or local friends, that's usually the best way to find somebody good.
@@enduringcharm Enjoyed the video 👍
How often do you think the silicone around the clay needs to be replaced?
It will depend on a number of factors, including sun exposure, seasonal changes, etc. A number of years at a minimum.
Fantastic! Are you any where near Long Island, NY?
I'm out in Hunterdon County in Jersey.
@@enduringcharm Thanks! Not exactly sure where Hunterdon Cty is situated but a lot of great colonial history in the Jerseys,
There is indeed. I'm central western Jersey, and there are houses dating back to 1750 that I've had the pleasure of working on in my area. many of the old houses end up being "remuddled" or unmaintained, but when owners think of themselves as stewards of the history these houses can last for centuries.
was the form 1" or less? How did you attach the form?
I replied to your message--the form is just held in place by being screwed together tight enough to clamp the chimney. Size the form boards so that they are the same size or slightly smaller than the chimney sides.
great thank you.
Great video! I am sure your chimney crown will last many years. My chimney crown was made of precast concrete, but in many sections. The sections were joined together with mortar. The concrete looks great, is 2" thick with overhang, but the mortar has cracked. Could I just dismantle the sections and rebuild it (using the existing sections) with fresh mortar?
I've not seen a crown made that way, so I'm not certain I have a good answer for you. If it was constructed literally like bricks with mortar joints I suppose you could repoint the joints. But, I have to wonder if there is more to it, such as interlocking joints or some other structure. It seems odd to me not to have a monolithic structure to the cap. You should probably do some more research locally to see if somebody has more familiarity with this style.
I understand what you are talking about. The cap is precast but it has to chimneys so the cap I made in to C shapes the joint in the middle has mortar. I have a job I would like to do that is the same as your situation a d I am trying to decide what to do for the client too.
Very helpful, thanks
Great video thanks
Hi Nice work. How many hours did it take you to do the entire job?
+Eddie Silberman I can't remember now, but it was a fair amount of work. Probably six or seven hours in total. It takes time just to set up the ladders, etc.
Did a good job!
Excellent video, thanks for the info. I just wish my building was not 4 stories high. That gives me the heebie jeebies.
Yeah, that's pretty tall! You'd need scaffolding set up for that kind of job.
You, sir, are a badass.
eriko311 HAHA! Well, I try.
Where did you get the curved railing on your pool Deck???
+Tim Rosell Took me a minute to understand your question--were you looking at the deck in the background? That was made by me many years ago. It's a custom railing made of cedar and some PVC trim on the posts. There are now some manufacturers of rail systems who will provide custom railings for a customer provided radius, but otherwise you are on your own. My railing was for a circular deck, though. No pool!
enduringcharm yes sorry looked like a pool. Circular means triple or more costs;(
+Tim Rosell Very true--making a true circle means a lot more work and more materials. Like so many things in construction, the devil and the cost are in the details. That deck was put up 12 years ago or so, and I'm actually making some minor repairs to the railing right now so a video will follow!
I see radius on a 2 by 12' but I want bent poly material. Haven't see one nearby upstate New York yet. Old brick Victorian 1870s house with a circular porch. Uggh. #rehadaddict ; (
+Tim Rosell It is possible to bend certain types of PVC materials using specialized heat blankets. However, the material has little structural value, which gets tricky, and the cost isn't really any less than doing real wood. If you do use real wood, it is possible to cut some corners without seriously affecting the results. For example, fir can be used instead of more expensive woods if it is treated with preservative and painted well. You can also make railings out of two glued up layers and shorter lengths, which means the ability to use narrower stock to get your radius. Wish I was closer, sounds like the kind of project I love to do!
i just got the wood stove installed in my mothers fireplace and had water running down the insides of the chimney after starting it up. Stunk like awful. Went up on the roof the next day, today, to inspect and now i get to learn how to do this... lol
Cracked like urs but worse by about 5 times.
Its pretty thin honestly and probly wasnt done right to begin with
What concrete mix for the crown I heard you should but fibers in it
It's not a structural application in the sense of being weight bearing, so a bagged sand mix is fine. You can add fiber if you wish, but it isn't essential. I used latex admix which adds strength and waterproofing.
nice work
Why dont brick chimneys ever get caps poured that over hang the work so the water drips down rather then runs down the face? Hell if ur going through the hassel of fixing it why wouldnt u do it right
I did mention this in the video--a cap with a drip edge is preferable, I agree. In this particular chimney, though, a cap with an extended drip edge would have looked odd with the corbeled brick just below. There is always a balance between function and form.
What a Mesh!😅😆👍
why wouldnt u just add a flex crown to it instead of taking off the entire crown
+kevin willis I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "flex crown", perhaps you are referring to one of the latex masonry coatings? When the original crown gets this badly damaged there is a structural concern in addition to the water leakage. The original design assumes a solid crown that helps hold together the top of the structure as well as to shed water. Plus, there is an esthetic aspect of the repair because the crown does show from inside the house through windows as well as from below outdoors. Replacing the entire crown is the best structural solution and looks the best.
+enduringcharm I would imagine that when Kevin references a flex crown, I'm not certain, but he might be referring to coating the existing cracked crown with a type of elastomeric coating to cover over the cracks leaving the same basic structure shape as it was. You did a good job repairing what you did, and because there were some lose bricks on the walls of the fireplace, I think you did just what you needed to to correct any potential leaks.
In the uk your small hammer is called a (lump hammer) 😏
+steve newbould I'm always amused at the different terms found regionally and internationally for the same tools and techniques. It's a miracle we can communicate at all!
steve newbould in nyc it's a lump hammer too
👍
I use a concrete saw and a demo hammer its alot faster
Depending on physical access to the work and the chimney condition those might be options. However, if access is limited, or the footing by ladder or roof is marginal, or the condition of the chimney is poor, then speed is really less of a concern.
Very helpful. Thanks.