Forms for Footings and Reusing Materials
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Footing Materials have a tendency to be scraped after their initial use. If we had the ability to reuse them while also having the ability to manage vapor migration through the footing assembly, that would be great. Whats more would be awesome if we could also work faster...
#aarowbuilding #jakebruton #comobuilds #columbiamobuilder #kcmobuilder #kcbuilder #kcbuilds #kansascity #columbia #foundations #formwork #foundationcontractor #footingforms #fastfoot #longliveourbuildings
Future owner/builder here. People like me find all the detailed videos very useful. I'm glad it rained and you decided to give us a pre-pour video. I think you would've had less to talk about post pour. The fabric segments only overlap and so technically they are not 100% water proof, unless you taped them. I plan on using the Fast Form fabric but will not count on it creating a perfectly dry footer. I will spray the top of the footer with a suitable waterproofing to create a capillary break for the ICF foundation walls, belt and suspenders philosophy 😂. Maybe one day you can do an ICF house to the roof since MO is tornado ally.✌️
You can also raise the PSI of the concrete to reduce the capliary action within the material. 4500 PSI I think is enough to reduce the capilary action enough to not need a break. Double check me on that though.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building There is a concrete admixture from Xypex that creates a waterproof crystalline structure within the concrete. A good thing about it is that if the concrete cracks and water intrudes into that crack, the Xypex reactivates, sealing the crack. At least that is what it is marketed to do. As an owner/builder I might do all of the above to ensure I never have to deal with a damp basement. It would be good to know what would be good enough to last so that even great grandkids wouldn't have to worry about it.
@markstipulkoski1389 he's got you using "capillary break". Spraying the top of the footing won't do anything to eliminate the wall/footing joint. If you truely need water to never get through there as if your building a chemical containment pond, you would imbed a rubber T-membrane on the middle of the footing. Bit, your building a HOUSE. Waterproof the entire outside wall / footing after the wall pour to the ground. Use foam board protectant, and a French drain.to sump or daylight. that's if your in a high water table. Putting a horizontal joint across the top of the footing won't do anything. You should talk to real contractors instead of YOUTIBERS.
I thought the conversation was specific to just footings and capilary breaks. Waterproofing the wall and the possiblity of intrusion at that connection is a whole other conversation. Choosing the appropriate approach to each site and each water table is key to any foundation, however I have yet to see a single project utilize a t membrane in residentail construction in our area because it is a low risk area due to low water tables. Furthermore if you have that much water reaching the footing to wall connection from the surface you have failed at managing surface water. But hey, maybe I’m just a UA-camr. Sumps are great but fail during storms when the power is out, storms tend to bring rain, so we recommend only to daylight when possible.
@@gregkirk1842 My application will be a walkout basement on a slope and a French drain open down slope to daylight. The bottom of the French drain will be at the bottom of the footer and the holes in the PVC pipe will be at the bottom. So the cold joint will be a foot above where the water will be accumulating. The basement walls will be ICF, non-negotiable. I am aware of the adjustable feet made for ICF that are used to do a footer/foundation mono-pour and that eliminates a cold joint below grade. Feet are a little expensive but might be cost effective if it eliminates an extra pump truck hire. Regardless, waterproofing will be fluid applied and dimple mat will drape over the footer to direct water to the drainage pipe. Fill will promote drainage to the pipe to minimize hydrostatic pressure. Probably will do fill in lifts and put geo mesh between layers like is done in retaining walls. Waterproofing will go above grade by about a foot. Parging will extend slightly below grade for aesthetics and to protect waterproofing from UV. To mitigate subterranean termites, I plan on cutting a horizontal channel in the foam all around the house a few inches above grade. The channel will go all the way to the concrete core and will be filled during parging. That's my plan and I think it's a good one. If you're a builder for a living, you may think it's overkill, not worth the cost or effort. Whatever I don't pay someone else to do can go into house. Gotta get back to my day job to pay for all this!🤣✌️
It's great to see building techniques continue to evolve as new materials come to market. I could be wrong, but it feels like a lot of builders have progressed forward with a better understanding of building science in the last 10 years. Maybe it's just because we are able to share information so quickly and freely now.
I think you are absolutely correct. Access and the fact that folks want to share. My parents generation took their knowledge to retirement because their trade secrets were what they thought made them vauable and if anyone else knew those secrets no one would ever hire them again. Simply not true.
The equivalent fiberglass composite rebar was double the price of #4 grade 60 rebar in my area. I wanted to use the composite rebar for the reasons you mentioned but not at that cost. I used 6 sticks in my ICF 36" x 12" footers spaced at 3 & 6 inches inside the footers.
I recently bought fiberglass rebar because I saw a video that says if you put steel in the ground (dirt) below concrete that it causes the steel to rust which may cause concrete to Crack. I didn't realize that it is cheaper. Plus fiberglass is easier to cut
Bar rusting is probably the biggest reason for concrete cracking in serious ways. The bar being exposed to moisture at least.
are you going to do icf for the walls? I know several people who do a monopour with fast foot and icf
We did not. Simple traditional formed walls. ICF has not ever penciled out price wise for us. It always comes out more expensive.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building Yeah it always is, but I do prefer it over block and insulating later.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building Really, even after you consider the price of zip tape?🤣✌️
Really.
No one throws away 2x10s after one pour. They are used for more footings. The General doesn't buy them.
1700 sq ft on three floors. Land must be at a premium there.
This is a postage stamp of a lot for sure.
Dude, you just stand there and talk way to much......show us the forming and pouring while you are explaining....sorry, I'm out.
Sorry man, sometimes I’m a one man show, forming and placing have to happen off camera because I can’t do them all at once. Hopefully you find useful content elsewhere.