The Best Forced Air Incubator for hobbiests Hova Bator Genesis Model 1588 GQF, Battery Backup System
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2009
- Get the New Version of this incubator here: amzn.to/2Fom2Kx
Hatch all chicken, duck and other poultry breed eggs. Hova-Bator Model 1588 is shown in great detail, all optional components are demonstrated in detail. This video has [closed captions] for the hearing impaired. incubator, automatic egg turner, emergency battery backup and a pre-set digital thermostat, make this hands-down, my favorite hobby incubator!
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Just started today with same 1588, thanks for the info
in 30 years of hatching, Hovabator was the most reliable incubator I owned. Sadly I live in England and the make cannot be bought over here anymore. Import duties and postage make it too expensive to buy direct from America. I mourn the death of my last Hovabator. I recently bought an Italian one (Borotto) and it seems ok, but I still prefer the Hovabator.
yep, the factory pre-set has eliminated that problem altogether... lots of people also placed those mounted thermometers in the improper location... specifically with the still air units. this is a great improvement.
Duck hatching temps are the same as for chickens... so factory settings are fine. Turn your duck eggs at least three times a day, five would be even better... they "can" be in the tilt style auto turner, but just do better when rolled rather than tilting. I wish you success with your duck eggs.
The video has the links shown in it... Stromberg's Chickens is one source. The cost varies depending on if you have the automatic turner, DC adapter and other extras... they often run specials, so look around. Double check the model number, there are other cheaper versions out there also.
@SReeves337 YOU are most welcome... happy hatching
@gokory no, I do not add water until day 18... If you have an automatic egg turner, you would be removing that on the 18th day and the developing eggs would be placed on the screen bottom, water would be in the trough beneath the wire screen. It does not harm your eggs to gently handle them with clean hands. In fact you should be candling your eggs after the first and second week to examine their progress. Air cell size is the best indicator of proper humidity levels.
Google Stromberg's chickens and game birds. UA-cam won't allow me to type the link here, you'll fine it ok. Tell them Fred from Fred's Fine Fowl sent you... great people there and awesome stock.
That's fantastic Grill.... sponsorship is always great and as you know, when it comes to school projects, doors are opened quickly.
I'm so glad that you are back in the class room where YOU belong!
@ichoudhury007 Yes, since 99.5 is optimum for any forced air unit, 99.8 is well within the good operating range.
@HTCSWEOD Thanks! I was already planing on just hand turning, it will be my first time ever using an incubator so I really hope I don't mess up, but from reading the incubator's instructions I kind of feel better about what to do.
@zinkx3 Yes, many people do use them as reptile incubators... look at UA-cam videos that are posted by reptile enthusiasts... they share their success stories.
Yes.. since the egg turner must be removed during the hatch (last three days) it would be a problem if you still have eggs incubating.
It's best to do a "all in, all out" cycle. clean the unit between hatches with baby antiseptic wipes.
You can adjust temps for different species though and I would think the quail egg cups would be a good size for pigeons?
Thanks for your comments Des.
Thanks!!!
If you notice.. most egg turners/tilters, generally move the egg 90 degrees... from 45 deg right, back to 45 degrees left. This is enough to exercise chicken embryos and keep them from adhering to the shell lining. IF you are hatching ducks, this is no good, those do need to be on their side and rolled for successful hatches. I was into hatching ducklings for quite some time before a master breeder pointed that out to me ("> But for chickens, you're fine.
Great video... Thanks
@gokory the tray is shaped so you can position the tray and the egg turner so it is easy to fill the tray. Use a sports bottle to easily squirt the water in the trough.
you will probably need to fill it a couple times.
In general, all forced air incubators operate at 99.5 deg. F. there are slight variations...
Humidity settings vary based on actual moisture/weight loss during incubation. I show the standard settings for a wet bulb reading on the video... for the RX incubator...
this is a very useful video.
Thank you
you're welcome!
Thank you for your comment, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Fred does it again!
You will need to adjust the digital temp to 83 deg. F. and just set whatever you are hatching your reptile eggs in, right inside on the screen bottom. Vermiculite is a good choice for setting your eggs "in" Have Fun and good luck!
Thanks for your comment, yep, this would be great for quail... Happy Hatching!
This is the one I got for my emu eggs ;)
Others have done that, let me know how it works out for you!
If anything, for the last three days you may reduce temps a small amount... heating up your incubator may cause chicks to dry out and become stuck to their eggs.
So, say it's a forced air incubator and you ran it at 99.5 degrees F. during incubation.. you may increase humidity and turn down the unit to 98.5 to assist in keeping the humidity levels up during pipping and hatching.
just 1 more question. What should the incubator be on for the temp for eggs and what for the humidity? and for which days of incuabtion?
@diablogtrwill I've hatched ratite (Ostrich & Emu) eggs, they are definitely too large for this incubator, I suggest the Sportsman by GQF for those. All others you mention would be fine. I don't know of anyone who can legally hatch Eagle eggs... also some vultures are protected. Good luck!
Very nice man...
I may have some corporate sponsors willing to purchase an incubator for us this year....
Ill keep this in mind. Good to see ya again Fred! My students were asking about your video and asking when we would start the Incubation Team again!
these units would work just fine for peafowl... I suggest not using the automatic turner and go with hand turning at least three times a day. They seem to do better when rolled, rather than "tilted".... see my video on the RX incubator, it's perfect for peafowl with it's rolling action. Best of luck to you!
May you please show how to replace the chicken racks with the quail racks?
I do not recommend putting duck eggs in the tilt type turner... they don't do well this way... duck eggs are best "rolled" or turned by hand... as far as physically fitting the turner, they will fit, but expect hatch rates to be lower if in the tilter.
Thanks for your question!
@AssassinCreedboy78 The factory pre-sets would not be good for turtle eggs... also depending on the species of turtle, the requirements would differ.. it will maintain stable temps and you would have to make the adjustments for the eggs you are incubating. For turtle or other reptile eggs, a still air unit would work just as well as the forced air system.
Hey Frederick, have you ever eaten a pre-mature chicken egg?
nope
I have the simple hova-bator also with the two small windows. I am hopping to hatch my first ever eggs which will be peafowl (peacock) eggs. One person said that peafowl eggs are hard to hatch and it might not work. Do you have any ideas if hova-bators can work well for peafowl eggs?
@jessicaz08 You'll have to give me some more information to help with a question like that? Is it the Genesis turner, or another manufacturer? They plug in separate from the incubator, does it have power? If it has power and is properly connected and the outlet has power, the electric motor may have failed... if it's new, consider returning it to the company you purchased it from. I wish you luck... I've never had a turner fail, but that doesn't mean it can't happen.
@gokory please visit FredsFineFowl and click on the incubation page for greater detail.
I have a hova-bator incubator with the 2 small windows. for the last three days I should be increasing humidity, does that mean I increase the temperature so the more water get evaporated or is there another way?
Wesley you can put other eggs in ...but when it comes time for lockdown the last 4 days the humidity has to be raised to 65 The eggs you put in later will not be ready for the higher huniidity They could drowned'
You will need a second incubator.... one for the higher humndity lockdown eggs...Another for the humidity you used for the first 17 days.
I have my girlfriend who is getting into breeding canaries. She wants to know as a beginner, if this GQF 1588 Genesis Hova-Bator Incubator, that is used in classrooms and lab's will serve the purposes that she needs it for.
Yes, she can simply make the proper adjustments for temps suited to her specific species... also works for reptile eggs.
Thanks so much for your response, I will order it right now from GQF manufacturing.
Hector Mos You're welcome.. you can also get it from Strombergs and other Poultry Supply / hatcheries...
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help your class Grill... I'm IN...
are these good for turtle eggs
So long as you match their required humidity and temps, I don't see why not. Some require that you place them in moss, peat, or some other substrate.
There are often specials and price is different based on how it's outfitted... with turner, adapter, so on... I'd just call for current pricing?
call: 1-800-720-1134
Ask about the Genesis Hova-Bator Model 1588
they will give you current pricing... I left prices off this video on purpose, as they seem to change frequently...
Thanks for your question.
Hi Frederick, do you happen to know the factory presets for the toggle temperature control?
Hi Tiffany, I'm sorry to say that I don't.... you'll have to experiment if they don't post them on the website.
@DjDeathRamiro Chicken eggs hatch on the 21st day... forced air units like this one run at 99.5 deg. F. Stop turning the eggs on the 18th day...
are these good for lizards
Hello! I will hatch duck. Im using hovabator 1588 lcd + autoturner. Please give me an advice. I have to remove autoturner? How often i should roll the eggs ? What tempreture you use for ducks?
hi, my light sussex just started laying eggs they are fertile, should i wait till the hen is fully grown, will it effects the chicks size?
older hens tend to produce larger eggs which in turn produce larger chicks. I like to breed from 18 months old or older. Plus you know more about the birds by that age.
Mr. Dunn, You and I had been exchanging comments about incubators and humidity. I have started eggs in the Genesis model and initially filled trough 1 &2 with water and had a humidity level of around 52%. I stopped up to my classroom today (Sunday) and noticed the humidity level was at 25%. I added more water and it jumped to 65%. How do I keep it at a consistent level given that the classroom temperature varies so much, how concerned do I need to be able this? Today is day 10 that they have been in the incubator.
I am having the same issue! I can't get it to hold humidity.
Suggestions?
Wow, I'm sorry to say I have just noticed this comment. More important than the humidity levels you are reading, is the amount of moisture loss in the egg during incubation. The goal is 13% weight loss by the 21st day of incubation. Candling the eggs is a far better method of determining the proper humidity levels. If the environment is already high in humidity, then little to no water needs to be added during incubation.. although all troughs should be full during pipping and hatching.
If humidity levels are too high during incubation and the chicks have to absorb too much albumen at hatch, they will simply pip and die in their shells. This is what I call "chubby chick syndrome". If enough liquid has evaporated during incubation, then they absorb all of the nutrients before hatching out and are fine.
At times, you may notice a chick with a bloody belly button with some material poking out. This is also due to high humidity levels during incubation and there being more albumen than the chick can absorb.
Please pay closer attention to the air cell size while candling and fuss less about the humidity level readings. High humidity at hatch is important to keep the chicks from sticking to the shell lining. Each egg shell has varying conditions and levels of porosity, so each egg does not lose moisture at the same rate. A fresh egg with the original bloom coating in tact will loose much less moisture inside than an older "washed" shell will.
I cannot stress enough, how important it is to candle eggs and monitor air cell size. I have posted a dehydration chart/illustration on FredsFineFowl.com I know this is way too late for you, but maybe others will read and benefit?
Adam... please read my other comment and please candle the eggs for the most accurate understanding of how your eggs are progressing. Please consider the air cell size to be your best indicator of proper humidity levels. Percentages of humidity to not apply across the board... it may not be as bad as you think.
Can this be used for bearded dragon eggs too?
Please Respond.
Frederick, how long do you estimate this unit will run off of a completely charged battery? For long-term power outages, or an off-grid situation, would the car batter work better because you could charge the car battery by running the car?
Car batteries aren't designed to deep cycle, so that's a risk, some cars don't charge very well when idling. There are some good marine batteries such as those made for trolling motors. How long it lasts really depends on how cold the environment your incubator is in. If room temps are in the high 70's or low 80's, it's going to last a long time on a battery. I would move the incubator to your warmest part of the house or near the wood stove or fireplace if you have that. The fan takes little power, it's the heating element that draws the most... you can get several hours from a small battery with normal environmental temps.
Thank you!
what's the best humidity for chicken eggs in this incubator?
thanks a lot
go by the air cell size rather than set humidity levels.
No.
yes
yes... just remove the automatic egg turner...
IN how many days the eggs come out and what temperature supos to be ?
99.5 deg. F, and it takes 21 days, stop turning them in the 18th day.
I have the egg turner in my unit. It only slightly turns the eggs, or tilts them. Is that ok? I thought they needed to turn fully.
Just enough to keep the embryo exercised. Rolling is better than tilting.
@HTCSWEOD Did you mention 1588 is set to 99.8, but that's a good setting for this specific Incubator?
That's a good setting for any forced air incubator.
Hey Frederick, I was wondering if I can put eggs new laid eggs in the incubator while others have already been incubating for a while.
I do all in and all out with this unit. but, with my larger GQF incubator, each level has a different start date and they are 7 days apart. Each tray cycles down a level week by week, and the bottom tray doesn't tilt, so that's the hatching level. You can have continuous hatches weekly that way. You need to be able to stop the tilting of the eggs around the 18th day so the chicks can orient for hatching out.
@@FrederickDunnAwesome
Is the Styrofoam material durable?
Yes... tough enough for many many years of use....
What is t he exact name/brand of the battery used for backup?
+TubeYouFromMe You can use any 12 volt battery... I recommend those sold for trolling motors at sporting goods stores. They can bee deep cycled several times.
+Frederick Dunn Thank you for a speedy reply and accurate answer1
You're very welcome :)
This seems like a great system although I'll probably just be starting with chicks from the local store (we know the manager) rather than eggs but eventually I'd like to get into eggs so I'll have to keep this system in mind. :) I'm wondering though, are there any similar smaller units? It seems like a great investment and all but I don't exactly need 50 eggs hahah I suppose I could always sell extra chicks though. That leads me to another question: can you hatch less eggs? I assume you probably can but I didn't know if having more or less eggs would effect them at all? And I was just found this seemingly great breeder that I'd like to possibly buy from in the future (even if it's in the far future) and they're relatively close and have local pick-up, which is nice so they wouldn't have to be shipped, but you're right about not using valuable eggs at first so I'm curious - where exactly do you get the not as valuable eggs? From Craigslist or just normal hatchery eggs or something like that?
Thanks in advance for the help and sorry for all the questions
Hi KDOGG... please visit my website, I review several various types of incubators, some large and others small... you can always hatch fewer eggs in the larger units, so you really can't go wrong with the larger capacity, though, if you get a unit like those sized for three or six eggs, you can't increase the capacity later on. If you get a big system and decide it's not for you, you can still sell it used. I hope that helps?
That definitely does help - thanks for the info! I'll go check out the website
KDOGG331 You're welcome...
Nope....
Is the Styrofoam material durable?
+Artie Yau Yes... I've been using it for 7 years... Plus, it's the best insulator you can get!
Thank you. I am considering buying the 1588
That's a good choice... for small operations, it's consistent and dependable. I think you'll enjoy it.