Had no idea this was something people are saying is problematic with the DSG. Had me worried there for a second 😅. Really great to see you approach this in a logical way that shows live data and results in a clear outcome. I always appreciate your fun and informative content!
Lmao don’t worry jego. My first car was a 2007 jeep compass and the cvt junked out on it. Had no clue what a good car was at the time. Now on my third strong car ‘22 Hyundai Elantra N DCT
A massive Thanks for sharing that video, it has really helped me understand the DSG box and the way it works. I have just brought a skoda yeti 2016 with a 1.2 DQ 200 7 speed dsg box and I never had any idea what was going on in the box. I understand the workings of everything now. when im out on the road I can understand what going on. I really appreciate you sharing this👍👌
The only thing people need to worry about/realize with these transmissions is when in bumper to bumper traffic, you dont want to constantly inch your car forward. That causes excessive wear on the clutch as it's constantly doing partial engagement. Thanks for showing just that.
I don’t have a VW but I have a car that uses wet dual clutch transmission. Would it be better to go on neutral rather than just hitting the brakes or engaging the auto hold function and creep through traffic?
Thank you boss. This is the best explanation to date on UA-cam. That clutch readiness precision is insane engineering. Those pneumatic actuators inside the gearbox need to perform precision operation under all kinds of stress conditions. That's pretty impressive
This is another one those urban legends that pops up and I always look at the person telling me with the “yes, I can’t imagine ANYBODY in the engineering department over there EVER thought of THAT” face.
Thanks, very informative video and I like the manner in which you did this.👌 I guess no need for me to put the car in neutral any longer when sitting at a red light, was really scared that I might damage something in the long run💯
Nice video, it would be cool to see how reverse is done. I know the DSG uses clutch 1 for reverse gear and I have noticed if you are not completely stopped and the transmission is still in 2nd gear it will be slightly quicker to get into R since it doesn’t have to disengage the clutch first, but this was on a Gen 1 DQ250.
When stopped, why is the torque different between the two clutches if both are disengaged? If a clutch is disengaged, the torque will be zero. The zero point for torque seems to be -74 ft.lbs. When stationary clutch 1 increases torque from -74in.lbs to -9in.lbs. How does it do that if the clutch is disengaged? BTW negative torque makes no sense unless there is a change in direction of the applied torque. This video creates more questions than it answers.
Great video . The logic and common sense of the explanation prove to me that you know very much about this . Reading the comments some are pretty on point as well . Good video.
No way they designed it to slip in a stand still, the pressure is only there to stand by. Put it in drive/sport/M and hold it with your brakes as long as you want
Another great video! It also now makes more sense to me why we need DSG tunes for more power now too. If they came from the factory already "DSG Tuned" with more clamping power then would be required perhaps it would seem to me at some risk of stalling the engine, or at least like the engine output isnt matched for a nice transition with the torque slip, especially at higher Tq demand/spirited riving.
Havent thought about that but you may be right. Ive notice since being tuned over a year now in 1st-3rd the shifts are much harder and slower then the higher gears. With what you mentioned that actrually makes sense as lower gearing makes more torque then higher gears. So it has too clamp harder in lower gears for that very reason. I find into 4,5,6,(never reved out 7th) shift instant and dont lurch your body. But into 2 and 3 its like 100%power cut for half a second then 100% power on.
Great video in understanding the dynamics of DSG transmission. Now the I am armed with inside knowledge of this transmission, I am curuous to kwow what would be best mode to drive in bumber to bumper traffic to increase the longevity of the clutches? I believe drive mode would cause many shifts. Will manual be better than sports?
I found out my Audi must go into neutral at a stop because of this lag it had after taking my foot of the brake to accelerate. That's the way DSG is designed. I did a reset with the OBDeleven and now it works with no delay, and you can change the engagement time with the OBDeleven also. If you don't have an OBDeleven for you Audi or VB, get one. There are so many changes you can do to your car.
i just got an obd11 last week and i was looking into the transmission tab (bc my clutch/trans has been slipping and been really rough with jolting ect). i saw some options in there about the clutch ect. do you know what i could try to change? i cant find any info on what they all do.
@@ShowTimeSchoweSorry, I believe it's under apps, then workshop, then look for adaptation. Or try under transmission. Like where codes would be stored. Not 100 percent, but there should be some vids on UA-cam for the procedure. Also you can send OBDeleven a question.
I guess it matters what type of DSG you have. If it is with dry or wet clutch pack. For the dry clutch unit, if you go to neutral, at a stop light, you are going to save one of the pressure bearings in the clutch unit, not applying pressure for a long time, to keeping the engine decupled from the gearbox. For the one with wet clutch system, my thinking is that it doesn't matter what you do at stop. I think it is only applying pressure on the clutch pack when the car is moving. But I'm not very familiar with this type of gearbox. (This is just a logical assumption)
Hello, i find very interested and helpful your data! I will like to make a question. This time in video, that you explain the all thing about engage and disengage of clutch .. you use the electric handbrake? I guess that you don't use it.. but if you use it , in the auto hold function, what it will happen when you are stopped and waiting (maybe) in the red light? Sorry for my english! I hope to understand my question!
I had a old 2007 VW with FSI motor and DQ250, the flywheel was worn out, I’ve noticed the clutch didn’t completely disengage at a stop and created extra heat unless put in Neutral. But now I have a new 2017, with same DQ250 (obviously updated and not worn). I can feel the clutch completely disengages at a stop.
Thats because your older car needed to have had a clutch adaptation done. Something that any good euro mechanic knows how to do. That would of told the car where the bite point is. Every DSG should get an adaptation done every DSG service i.e. every 4 years or 60,000km/40,000mi. This teaches the DSG where the bite points are on both clutch packs as they wear out over time.
Great video. Very useful. Do you how this relates to the auto hold feature fitted to VW's. Is it the same as holding on the foot brake i.e no clutch engagement
Excellent video. First time you can actually see difference between N and D. For me, the only question is why there is pressure in clutch, when you are in D and breaks engaged? What that pressure means exactly? Clutch is engaged still somehow, but not slipping? And torque gets generated only when you drive? Or torque will be generated when clutch is slipping?
I can explain for that. At a stop and the car is in drive, there is clutch pressure because First gear is selected and fluid is pumping in order to cool the DSG when rolling. I did a test and on my DQ250, in D I consume 0.36 Gallons per Hour at a stop and in Neutral I consume 0.28 Gallons Per Hour.
Рік тому
Came here after worrying forum posts about DSG, thanks. I guess I will be fine as a slow-paced defensive driver.
When fully stopped in my 2019 Golf 7 R, I can tell that the cars jitters a bit when it's supposedly half-pressed, which leads me to believe that the clutch is slightly touching the flywheel and is indeed being "eaten" when say, at a red stop. This is why I'm always switching to neutral because I feel like the engineers at VW made the clutch a little bit too close for the fast engagement and it's actually slightly touching, which is stupid from my point of view. Thanks a lot for your video, it really helped me!
Its no stupid at all. In order for the clutches to be fully disengaged, you need to be in a "safe" position, as if you are slamming on the brakes hard and not just touching it lightly. Remember, you are stopped not slowing down. And, in my opinion, you are doing more damage to your clutches and mechatronic by shifting all the time to neutral than leaving it in drive.
Interesting. Does a dsg GTI accelerate faster when you launch in S (no launch, just flooring it at a stop light)? Never noticed much difference between S and D, except the engine seems to give gas quicker when in S. I mostly drive normal anyways so. Polo AW GTI with 104.000km on the clock and no problems yet !
In the DSG, clutches are not pressing on the flywheel, it's a separated system inside the transmission with disks running in oil with the 6 and 8 gears models , dry clutch disks on the lighter 7 gears model for light low powered cars.
(Idont think it was that made said comment) but I did trully believe that sport mode was burning the clutches at a stop. I thought it left them half enaged due too the higher rpms and more importsntly the much faster engagement upon brake release... compared to normal drive which has a huge delay upon release until engagement the sportmode engagement feels instantaneaous(like it was already engaged). I now can tell i was clearly wrong and im actrually really happy i was because ive found normal drive too be super rough in first gear but its much smoother in sport mode(for multiple reasons ie-faster engagment better acceleration/smoother shift into second gear above light acceleration). Awsome:i shall now leave my car permanently in sport mode... okay this leads me too believe that leaving the differential in sport mode is also not bad??
It seems the clutch pressure increases with torque. In a manual the clutch is always applying the same pressure on the flywheel when you're off the pedal, if I understood it correctly. Interesting
This makes me wonder which is better over all for clutch and possible engine. Putting car in neutral and leaving engine idling at a stop. Or alternatively leaving in drive and letting auto stop kick in so engine stops completely and clutch not in use at all?
I never concerned myself with the DSG, I'm just a car goes point A-B person. But I watched anyway, All this was so interesting because I'm a Data kind of guy. Thank you for making this video!
Great video, the question is, is it better to use “autohold” than putting it in N, or is putting it in N better for preventing wear & tear? Thank you for informative video.
from another video i saw.....its not the clutches that are the issue at a stop, but the release bearing wearing out if you leave it in D rather than Neutral. Which would require the transmission to be serviced. The numbers shown in your video reflect this. So it IS A GOOD HABIT to put into neutral if you are reasonably gonna be sitting at a light.....like you would in a REGULAR MANUAL TRANS.
@EVERYTHINGcpo Does using sport mode helps DSG gearbox to last longer because of less gear changes happening? Even though it comes at the cost of higher fuel consumption?
I am sorry if my question sounds stupid. Can i summarise the take away as at a stop light, it’s theoretically best to switch to neutral since it disengage everything, including all the minuscule torque and engagement of the clutch. While best practice, it is unnecessary. Is that right? I am buying a golf 7 next week and been researching on how to look after the gear box. Plenty of horror stories I have heard from gearbox that’s badly looked after. Thanks in advance.
True. I'm driving a 2019 Skoda Octavia vrs with a DQ381 DSG Gearbox. I did monitor the engine load via obdeleven when the gearbox is in neutral and in 1st gear. There is a bit of engine load when the gearbox is in 1st gear whilst waiting at a traffic light.
What can damage the clutch is stop and roll or go type driving in heavy traffic sitting at a stop the clutch decouples but if the car is moving slightly it tries to engage the clutch but slippage happens cause it doesn't fully engage thus causing some ware
Could you explain how the auto hold feature works? Is the clutch engaged as your foot is off the break when stopped? Great video and explanation. Thanks
Yes, I've been wondering about this too. We tend to use this a lot as it's an handy feature but it's our first Auto and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to use it too much. I'm sure it's all programmed into some kind of control system and I'm assuming because it's technically holding the brake for you the clutch is disengaged but is it and how close is it to bite point? It must be close because it goes pretty much as soon as the accelerator is pressed so is this causing wear to the clutch system?
So in the end, what do *you* do when waiting at a red light? What do you recommend? I personally decide to go the neutral only if I know it's going to be a long wait, like more than 40-60sec on the traffic lights' timer. If it's less than that I don't even bother.
if you had a manual....would you hold the clutch pedal down that long? treat being in "drive" with brake pedal on as if you are holding down the clutch pedal. It will wear the release bearing.
Interesting! My Skoda Fabia DSG7 is currently in the workshop for clutch change. Have you noticed any difference in clutch pressure depending on how hard you press the brake when stationary? I feel that the revs drop and possibly the engine shuts down to save the environment when you press the brake hard. If I step loosely on the brake, it feels like the clutch pulls a little. Maybe that's why my clutch needs to be replaced after 6400 mil. I didn't think about this as the car was new and usually had very little brake pressure so that the engine wouldn't shut down.
Could you please also explain that how to use DSG, bumber to bumber traffic.While waiting for the green signal, do we need to put it on N as I see that clutch engagement can be avoided which helps long life of DSG?
Always wondered what strategy was used, I have a 2015 POLO GTI that seems very "aggressive" in it's strategy for shifting causing me to worry about the life of the clutch packs.
Hey my dsg jerks and feels like it’s going to stall from complete stop. No other point doesn’t do it. Have tried a few different possibilities but nothings changed. Thinking of getting vagcom cable to do basic reset. Not sure what to do
And what happens when in D mode the auto start-stop system turns the motor off at the red light and then turns the motor on and starts the car by brake release ?
Really enjoying your technical content very well done!! Just wanted to ask about your open IE intake set up with the Do88 intercooler. I've just purchased the Do88 cooler and looking for a nice intake and considering the IE one but worried high IATs of an open intake will rob me of power/performance. Do you think the cooler equals things out and keeps temps at a happy power making level?
It's funny you ask. I am actually looking into perhaps changing up the intake for that very reason. Even with the do88 I feel like my intake temps are a little on the high side. I'm looking for an enclosed solution that takes advantage of grabbing as much airflow as possible. I think the open design has been good enough... sounds great... but I want to FORCE more air in... not just let warm air sweep past and let the turbo suck in what it needs.
Great video thank you. Would like to see the actual gear selection next to the torque data…simply because my low band brain needs just a little easier visual to calculate what’s going on
when you see the power go from one clutch to the next, a gear shift happened. its not easy to tell which way the gear change is since in a dual clutch the first clutch handles all odd gears and 2nd clutch handles all even gears, making it directionless unless you know the gear numbers. that sudden rise in current and pressure that you see in the other clutch before a shift is likely the other clutch getting ready to engage and "catch" from the current clutch.
So it seems to me there is a difference between manual and drive/sport modes. In drive/sport, the clutch not engaed prepares fro the next shift by building some positive pressure. In manual mode this does not happen beause it cannot anticipate when you will shift and in which direction. So manual shifts feel different when you're driving around in manual mode. Am I right?
thanks a lot, one is never to old to learn, in my case anyway.very good explanation of how everything works. Maybe you can help me with the following DSG question, is it possible to rev match a DSG in downshifting with the shifters of course. Pardon my english ,I am Dutch so.....
It rev matches every time I downshift whether using the paddles or the shift lever manually or if it auto downshifts. The fast I stop (harder I brake) the sooner it downshifts and rev matches.
Thanks for the data. Have you tried any while utilizing the brake “hold” feature. I keep it on and find myself removing my foot from the brake pedal until the light turns green and then I just press the throttle. I wonder if I’m allowing the clutches to go into that “ready to engage” mode prematurely
My observation would be if you are in Drive and you are stop the pressure in the transmission is on clutch two and transmission has pressure on clutch one so when you need to go the transmission is ready, but this is my observation.
Great video! Really answer my curiosity about the clutch engagement in real time. I have another question! Very often we're told to drive a dsg differently as compared to an auto car, by not releasing brake to inch forward (it's like a half clutch effect in manual car) during traffic jams, but rather to ensure there is enough space in the front and apply gas so as ensure clutch is fully engaged when we move. Is there anyway we can prove this theory on how the clutch is half or fully engaged?
In his videos you see the clutch current on the two clutches that indicate how much they are engaged/disengaged. Current in mid ranges indicate how much half-clutching the car is doing at that point AFAIK.
the video proves, he does parking lot stop/go and hits over 6bar, then under acceleration he only hits 5.7bar -- the wear and tear on the DSG from "stopping" is actually stop/go/creeping. The video also shows his hypothesis was incorrect and that shifting to neutral DOES relieve pressure from the plates, but he played it off like he wasn't wrong.
Ok so what doing fuel consumtion (evonomy) difference? when you stop and on Drive mode and foot on brake pedal and fuel consumption is 0.7 l/h and same you stop but put transmision on Neutral and there is fuel consuption 0.6 l/h. How you explain that?
It won't harm the dsg clutches. Some people just think that, but it is based on opinions not facts. It is not a good idea to put it in neutral but to leave it in d or s mode.
Think of it as if you are driving a manual car. Will you depress the clutch and leave the gearbox in 1st gear all the way till the traffic light turns green? Technically speaking for DSG, when you shift to neutral, the solenoids will 'rest'.
What's the little circle within the rev needle on the digital cluster that moves with it? Does it flash when you hit redline or anything? Also how much of a pain was it coding the speed limit sign recognition to work?
Surely the whole point of sport mode is that you want it to set off faster so it would be fairly pointless if it was not good for it to sit at lights etc?
in sports mode at least does the gear changes faster so doesn't take long in take to the 3rd gear and 4th gear thing that in drive mode happens but with certain lag, that I noticed I have tried using the sports mode and just that I noticed in a Skoda Fabia now doesn't know if have the dry clutch dsg or the wet version of the DSG gearbox
@@megacap55 Yeah, my personal experience is that in sports mode an auto car will rev higher between shifts and so accelerate more between gear changes. Arguably auto does change quicker but then auto also has more gears to change to achieve the same high speed having maybe 7 or 8 gears (possibly more on some cars) instead of 6 so I would say it's smoother rather than quicker than someone good at manual changes. I drive both but not high power cars so maybe I don't see as much benefit from auto.
There was once where I put my car (having DSG trans) in M1 mode while I was stuck in a traffic jam, and was just crawling in M1, suddenly my gearbox high temp alert came on, and I had to park the car on the road side to let the gearbox cooldown. Question, is my putting of M1 gear while crawling the root cause of gearbox overheat?
For some reason when in M1 and letting the car role it over heats some kind of clutch module I can’t remember what’s it’s called it may not be an exact module but it’s something like that and it over heats
Had no idea this was something people are saying is problematic with the DSG. Had me worried there for a second 😅. Really great to see you approach this in a logical way that shows live data and results in a clear outcome. I always appreciate your fun and informative content!
😊😊😊
This video is absolutely KEY to approach to DSG from manual! Thank you a lot. That data is essential.
it’s so interesting to see how each clutch engages visually. coming from a cvt, this is new to me.
DSG
Lmao don’t worry jego. My first car was a 2007 jeep compass and the cvt junked out on it. Had no clue what a good car was at the time. Now on my third strong car ‘22 Hyundai Elantra N DCT
A massive Thanks for sharing that video, it has really helped me understand the DSG box and the way it works. I have just brought a skoda yeti 2016 with a 1.2 DQ 200 7 speed dsg box and I never had any idea what was going on in the box. I understand the workings of everything now. when im out on the road I can understand what going on. I really appreciate you sharing this👍👌
The only thing people need to worry about/realize with these transmissions is when in bumper to bumper traffic, you dont want to constantly inch your car forward. That causes excessive wear on the clutch as it's constantly doing partial engagement. Thanks for showing just that.
I don’t have a VW but I have a car that uses wet dual clutch transmission. Would it be better to go on neutral rather than just hitting the brakes or engaging the auto hold function and creep through traffic?
@@dodr788 Wait until you have room and then drive fast enough first gear engages.
Thank you boss. This is the best explanation to date on UA-cam. That clutch readiness precision is insane engineering. Those pneumatic actuators inside the gearbox need to perform precision operation under all kinds of stress conditions. That's pretty impressive
*hydraulic actuators
This is another one those urban legends that pops up and I always look at the person telling me with the “yes, I can’t imagine ANYBODY in the engineering department over there EVER thought of THAT” face.
Thanks, very informative video and I like the manner in which you did this.👌 I guess no need for me to put the car in neutral any longer when sitting at a red light, was really scared that I might damage something in the long run💯
VERY USEFUL ! Thank You ! what i do is if i stop at a Stop light and i have like more than 20s to wait i put it in N.
Nice video, it would be cool to see how reverse is done. I know the DSG uses clutch 1 for reverse gear and I have noticed if you are not completely stopped and the transmission is still in 2nd gear it will be slightly quicker to get into R since it doesn’t have to disengage the clutch first, but this was on a Gen 1 DQ250.
Great video I was always a bit curious especially with sport producing higher vibrations and rpm’s.
When stopped, why is the torque different between the two clutches if both are disengaged? If a clutch is disengaged, the torque will be zero.
The zero point for torque seems to be -74 ft.lbs. When stationary clutch 1 increases torque from -74in.lbs to -9in.lbs. How does it do that if the clutch is disengaged?
BTW negative torque makes no sense unless there is a change in direction of the applied torque.
This video creates more questions than it answers.
Great video . The logic and common sense of the explanation prove to me that you know very much about this . Reading the comments some are pretty on point as well . Good video.
I have a 2015 GTI with DSG and this has definitely crossed my mind lol. Thanks for the informative vid..
No way they designed it to slip in a stand still, the pressure is only there to stand by. Put it in drive/sport/M and hold it with your brakes as long as you want
Amazingly informative video. The visible data is so helpful in understanding what is going on inside my vehicle. Thanks !
I know this is old. Im new to DSG ( 2023 T-roc R ) and I always wondered how this works. Thankyou.
Another great video! It also now makes more sense to me why we need DSG tunes for more power now too. If they came from the factory already "DSG Tuned" with more clamping power then would be required perhaps it would seem to me at some risk of stalling the engine, or at least like the engine output isnt matched for a nice transition with the torque slip, especially at higher Tq demand/spirited riving.
Havent thought about that but you may be right. Ive notice since being tuned over a year now in 1st-3rd the shifts are much harder and slower then the higher gears. With what you mentioned that actrually makes sense as lower gearing makes more torque then higher gears. So it has too clamp harder in lower gears for that very reason. I find into 4,5,6,(never reved out 7th) shift instant and dont lurch your body. But into 2 and 3 its like 100%power cut for half a second then 100% power on.
@@dailydrivensedans4875 is dsg tune same as tcu tune?
@@dailydrivensedans4875 Lower gearing only makes less torque on the wheels, but the clutch will only ever see engine (crank) torque.
A DSG data geek out 😁. Data - shutting down trolls one video at a time
This was a perfect presentation! I would love to see what the Torque will be at, with a (Ready to Launce Control), and an Actual Launce Control.
Great video in understanding the dynamics of DSG transmission. Now the I am armed with inside knowledge of this transmission, I am curuous to kwow what would be best mode to drive in bumber to bumper traffic to increase the longevity of the clutches? I believe drive mode would cause many shifts. Will manual be better than sports?
I jI use manual and stay in 1st gear
I found out my Audi must go into neutral at a stop because of this lag it had after taking my foot of the brake to accelerate. That's the way DSG is designed. I did a reset with the OBDeleven and now it works with no delay, and you can change the engagement time with the OBDeleven also. If you don't have an OBDeleven for you Audi or VB, get one. There are so many changes you can do to your car.
how do you change engagement time with OBD?
i just got an obd11 last week and i was looking into the transmission tab (bc my clutch/trans has been slipping and been really rough with jolting ect). i saw some options in there about the clutch ect. do you know what i could try to change? i cant find any info on what they all do.
@@ShowTimeSchoweSorry, I believe it's under apps, then workshop, then look for adaptation. Or try under transmission. Like where codes would be stored. Not 100 percent, but there should be some vids on UA-cam for the procedure. Also you can send OBDeleven a question.
I guess it matters what type of DSG you have. If it is with dry or wet clutch pack. For the dry clutch unit, if you go to neutral, at a stop light, you are going to save one of the pressure bearings in the clutch unit, not applying pressure for a long time, to keeping the engine decupled from the gearbox. For the one with wet clutch system, my thinking is that it doesn't matter what you do at stop. I think it is only applying pressure on the clutch pack when the car is moving. But I'm not very familiar with this type of gearbox. (This is just a logical assumption)
Great vid. You really give a thorough explanation in your vids. Much appreciated.
Hello, i find very interested and helpful your data! I will like to make a question.
This time in video, that you explain the all thing about engage and disengage of clutch .. you use the electric handbrake? I guess that you don't use it..
but if you use it , in the auto hold function, what it will happen when you are stopped and waiting (maybe) in the red light?
Sorry for my english! I hope to understand my question!
Thank you for the vid, one question, what happens with the numbers when you apply the Auto Stop?
I had a old 2007 VW with FSI motor and DQ250, the flywheel was worn out, I’ve noticed the clutch didn’t completely disengage at a stop and created extra heat unless put in Neutral. But now I have a new 2017, with same DQ250 (obviously updated and not worn). I can feel the clutch completely disengages at a stop.
Thats because your older car needed to have had a clutch adaptation done. Something that any good euro mechanic knows how to do. That would of told the car where the bite point is. Every DSG should get an adaptation done every DSG service i.e. every 4 years or 60,000km/40,000mi. This teaches the DSG where the bite points are on both clutch packs as they wear out over time.
That does make sense, I started having issues after a DSG service from a shop who probably did NOT do the adaptation.
@@timeformetoact6 thats because it isn't "called for" in the maintenance service.
great video, your car sounds awesome! could you do a similar video but with launch control, and how that affects the clutch?
Actually that would be interesting. I have been doing some testing of how the Haldex works in launch control... i might do this.
Launch control definitely has an effect...especially in regards to DSG clutch heat. If you do an LC video I'd recommend adding that parameter.
I love how much information is in your videos! Had the sane question what things look like on a launch myself !
Great video. Very useful. Do you how this relates to the auto hold feature fitted to VW's. Is it the same as holding on the foot brake i.e no clutch engagement
Excellent video. First time you can actually see difference between N and D. For me, the only question is why there is pressure in clutch, when you are in D and breaks engaged? What that pressure means exactly? Clutch is engaged still somehow, but not slipping? And torque gets generated only when you drive? Or torque will be generated when clutch is slipping?
I can explain for that. At a stop and the car is in drive, there is clutch pressure because First gear is selected and fluid is pumping in order to cool the DSG when rolling.
I did a test and on my DQ250, in D I consume 0.36 Gallons per Hour at a stop and in Neutral I consume 0.28 Gallons Per Hour.
Came here after worrying forum posts about DSG, thanks. I guess I will be fine as a slow-paced defensive driver.
When fully stopped in my 2019 Golf 7 R, I can tell that the cars jitters a bit when it's supposedly half-pressed, which leads me to believe that the clutch is slightly touching the flywheel and is indeed being "eaten" when say, at a red stop.
This is why I'm always switching to neutral because I feel like the engineers at VW made the clutch a little bit too close for the fast engagement and it's actually slightly touching, which is stupid from my point of view.
Thanks a lot for your video, it really helped me!
Its no stupid at all.
In order for the clutches to be fully disengaged, you need to be in a "safe" position, as if you are slamming on the brakes hard and not just touching it lightly.
Remember, you are stopped not slowing down.
And, in my opinion, you are doing more damage to your clutches and mechatronic by shifting all the time to neutral than leaving it in drive.
Interesting. Does a dsg GTI accelerate faster when you launch in S (no launch, just flooring it at a stop light)? Never noticed much difference between S and D, except the engine seems to give gas quicker when in S. I mostly drive normal anyways so. Polo AW GTI with 104.000km on the clock and no problems yet !
In the DSG, clutches are not pressing on the flywheel, it's a separated system inside the transmission with disks running in oil with the 6 and 8 gears models , dry clutch disks on the lighter 7 gears model for light low powered cars.
(Idont think it was that made said comment) but I did trully believe that sport mode was burning the clutches at a stop. I thought it left them half enaged due too the higher rpms and more importsntly the much faster engagement upon brake release... compared to normal drive which has a huge delay upon release until engagement the sportmode engagement feels instantaneaous(like it was already engaged). I now can tell i was clearly wrong and im actrually really happy i was because ive found normal drive too be super rough in first gear but its much smoother in sport mode(for multiple reasons ie-faster engagment better acceleration/smoother shift into second gear above light acceleration). Awsome:i shall now leave my car permanently in sport mode... okay this leads me too believe that leaving the differential in sport mode is also not bad??
But sports mode uses more gas
From my opinion Manual mode or S mode are absolutely good to use DSG
There is an article called DSG SOP 5.0 which I can learn how to properly use DSG
It seems the clutch pressure increases with torque. In a manual the clutch is always applying the same pressure on the flywheel when you're off the pedal, if I understood it correctly. Interesting
This makes me wonder which is better over all for clutch and possible engine. Putting car in neutral and leaving engine idling at a stop. Or alternatively leaving in drive and letting auto stop kick in so engine stops completely and clutch not in use at all?
I never concerned myself with the DSG, I'm just a car goes point A-B person. But I watched anyway, All this was so interesting because I'm a Data kind of guy.
Thank you for making this video!
Great video, the question is, is it better to use “autohold” than putting it in N, or is putting it in N better for preventing wear & tear? Thank you for informative video.
from another video i saw.....its not the clutches that are the issue at a stop, but the release bearing wearing out if you leave it in D rather than Neutral. Which would require the transmission to be serviced. The numbers shown in your video reflect this. So it IS A GOOD HABIT to put into neutral if you are reasonably gonna be sitting at a light.....like you would in a REGULAR MANUAL TRANS.
Wondering this! Thank you for clarifying.
When we are ont light trafic, the best is out neutral or star on drive mode ?
Just stay in drive. That’s how it’s designed
Great, now I wonder if you would be able to do one about resting your hand on the gear lever if that does anything to the transmission.
I drove my S3 2015 only in dynamic mode. No issues with the dsg and I had it for 9 years 100k miles.
@EVERYTHINGcpo Does using sport mode helps DSG gearbox to last longer because of less gear changes happening? Even though it comes at the cost of higher fuel consumption?
that was a nice experiment it shows a lot of interesting info. many thanks and greeting from Egypt
Is it true, that in slow traffic, it is bad for DSG gearbox to let the car creep forward by itself (not feeding gas)?
I use sport mode to be obnoxious because it stays in 4th for ages which makes my exhaust obnoxiously loud hahaha
lol!
im always in sport manual, rather it stay in the gear i want, im very rarely in auto
So if I get it right the best way to keep your clutches for a long time is to put on N while waiting ?
Thanks for sharing
No, has no effect on clutch life.
I am sorry if my question sounds stupid.
Can i summarise the take away as at a stop light, it’s theoretically best to switch to neutral since it disengage everything, including all the minuscule torque and engagement of the clutch. While best practice, it is unnecessary.
Is that right?
I am buying a golf 7 next week and been researching on how to look after the gear box. Plenty of horror stories I have heard from gearbox that’s badly looked after.
Thanks in advance.
True. I'm driving a 2019 Skoda Octavia vrs with a DQ381 DSG Gearbox. I did monitor the engine load via obdeleven when the gearbox is in neutral and in 1st gear. There is a bit of engine load when the gearbox is in 1st gear whilst waiting at a traffic light.
What can damage the clutch is stop and roll or go type driving in heavy traffic sitting at a stop the clutch decouples but if the car is moving slightly it tries to engage the clutch but slippage happens cause it doesn't fully engage thus causing some ware
Could you explain how the auto hold feature works? Is the clutch engaged as your foot is off the break when stopped? Great video and explanation. Thanks
Yes, I've been wondering about this too. We tend to use this a lot as it's an handy feature but it's our first Auto and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to use it too much. I'm sure it's all programmed into some kind of control system and I'm assuming because it's technically holding the brake for you the clutch is disengaged but is it and how close is it to bite point? It must be close because it goes pretty much as soon as the accelerator is pressed so is this causing wear to the clutch system?
hello there, this is a really interesting video/information. what is the app on your tablet? Thank you.
Awesome video... Just wondering what happens when it's in P or R
So in the end, what do *you* do when waiting at a red light? What do you recommend? I personally decide to go the neutral only if I know it's going to be a long wait, like more than 40-60sec on the traffic lights' timer. If it's less than that I don't even bother.
if you had a manual....would you hold the clutch pedal down that long? treat being in "drive" with brake pedal on as if you are holding down the clutch pedal. It will wear the release bearing.
Interesting! My Skoda Fabia DSG7 is currently in the workshop for clutch change. Have you noticed any difference in clutch pressure depending on how hard you press the brake when stationary? I feel that the revs drop and possibly the engine shuts down to save the environment when you press the brake hard. If I step loosely on the brake, it feels like the clutch pulls a little. Maybe that's why my clutch needs to be replaced after 6400 mil. I didn't think about this as the car was new and usually had very little brake pressure so that the engine wouldn't shut down.
Could you please also explain that how to use DSG, bumber to bumber traffic.While waiting for the green signal, do we need to put it on N as I see that clutch engagement can be avoided which helps long life of DSG?
1. use Manual Mode or S mode
@@尋尋覓覓-z5pcould you explain more about this using manual mode?
@@M46390 There is an article called DSG SOP 5.0 which I learned how to properly use DSG
@@尋尋覓覓-z5p bullsht.
This is a really well done video with the real world data to back it up. Nice R by the way, your car and my car are siblings haha
Why would manufacturers put a sport mode in there if it doesn’t last or break your car?
I know, right?!
Always wondered what strategy was used, I have a 2015 POLO GTI that seems very "aggressive" in it's strategy for shifting causing me to worry about the life of the clutch packs.
Hey my dsg jerks and feels like it’s going to stall from complete stop. No other point doesn’t do it. Have tried a few different possibilities but nothings changed. Thinking of getting vagcom cable to do basic reset. Not sure what to do
Wow
Very nice and informative video ever about DSG.
THANKS MAN.
Nice
I drive in manual all the time
Most of the time in the city so firs and second gear will not change so often back and forth all the time
Excellent video, very informative 👍👍
And what happens when in D mode the auto start-stop system turns the motor off at the red light and then turns the motor on and starts the car by brake release ?
WTF🤦🏻♂️..I run in Sports Mode every damn day and have Zero issues
Really enjoying your technical content very well done!! Just wanted to ask about your open IE intake set up with the Do88 intercooler. I've just purchased the Do88 cooler and looking for a nice intake and considering the IE one but worried high IATs of an open intake will rob me of power/performance. Do you think the cooler equals things out and keeps temps at a happy power making level?
It's funny you ask. I am actually looking into perhaps changing up the intake for that very reason. Even with the do88 I feel like my intake temps are a little on the high side. I'm looking for an enclosed solution that takes advantage of grabbing as much airflow as possible. I think the open design has been good enough... sounds great... but I want to FORCE more air in... not just let warm air sweep past and let the turbo suck in what it needs.
@@EVERYTHINGcpo cool keen to see what intake you go for. Will probably just do the intake mod on the OEM intake for the time being. Cheers
@@EVERYTHINGcpo i also want to take do88 and mst performance intake & inlet i should pass my dsg6 to stage one?* or stock is fine?
Very interesting and nice video, for me too much time in a redlight neutral, i dont like the pressure you make too your brakes.
Thank you so much for this explanation!
Great video thank you.
Would like to see the actual gear selection next to the torque data…simply because my low band brain needs just a little easier visual to calculate what’s going on
when you see the power go from one clutch to the next, a gear shift happened. its not easy to tell which way the gear change is since in a dual clutch the first clutch handles all odd gears and 2nd clutch handles all even gears, making it directionless unless you know the gear numbers. that sudden rise in current and pressure that you see in the other clutch before a shift is likely the other clutch getting ready to engage and "catch" from the current clutch.
So it seems to me there is a difference between manual and drive/sport modes. In drive/sport, the clutch not engaed prepares fro the next shift by building some positive pressure. In manual mode this does not happen beause it cannot anticipate when you will shift and in which direction. So manual shifts feel different when you're driving around in manual mode.
Am I right?
thanks a lot, one is never to old to learn, in my case anyway.very good explanation of how everything works. Maybe you can help me with the following DSG question, is it possible to rev match a DSG in downshifting with the shifters of course. Pardon my english ,I am Dutch so.....
It rev matches every time I downshift whether using the paddles or the shift lever manually or if it auto downshifts. The fast I stop (harder I brake) the sooner it downshifts and rev matches.
Thanks for the data. Have you tried any while utilizing the brake “hold” feature. I keep it on and find myself removing my foot from the brake pedal until the light turns green and then I just press the throttle. I wonder if I’m allowing the clutches to go into that “ready to engage” mode prematurely
That’s an interesting idea.
hey have you tried that? I have also heard that autohold will completely disengage the clutches and on accelerator input will re engage them
My observation would be if you are in Drive and you are stop the pressure in the transmission is on clutch two and transmission has pressure on clutch one so when you need to go the transmission is ready, but this is my observation.
Great explanation! 🤙🏼
This is a great and very well detailed video.
What is regulaiting the clutch preassures? Thought it is spring loaded?
Great video! Really answer my curiosity about the clutch engagement in real time.
I have another question! Very often we're told to drive a dsg differently as compared to an auto car, by not releasing brake to inch forward (it's like a half clutch effect in manual car) during traffic jams, but rather to ensure there is enough space in the front and apply gas so as ensure clutch is fully engaged when we move.
Is there anyway we can prove this theory on how the clutch is half or fully engaged?
In his videos you see the clutch current on the two clutches that indicate how much they are engaged/disengaged. Current in mid ranges indicate how much half-clutching the car is doing at that point AFAIK.
the video proves, he does parking lot stop/go and hits over 6bar, then under acceleration he only hits 5.7bar -- the wear and tear on the DSG from "stopping" is actually stop/go/creeping. The video also shows his hypothesis was incorrect and that shifting to neutral DOES relieve pressure from the plates, but he played it off like he wasn't wrong.
Ok so what doing fuel consumtion (evonomy) difference? when you stop and on Drive mode and foot on brake pedal and fuel consumption is 0.7 l/h and same you stop but put transmision on Neutral and there is fuel consuption 0.6 l/h. How you explain that?
What will be the status of the clutch when cruising on a highway ? At a constant speed and in the top most gear ?
What if we put in park mode
Hello Brother, I need to know what oil you are you use?
Does the parking, hand brake have any effect?
nice, were i can buy the dongle?
what happens if you rev it in netural or park i wanna see the results and if its damgaing your transmatition
Please, can anyone tell me why the torch remains at -9
It won't harm the dsg clutches.
Some people just think that, but it is based on opinions not facts.
It is not a good idea to put it in neutral but to leave it in d or s mode.
do you know about the release bearing ?
So should we switch to Neutral in Red traffic signals, so that the gear will be totally disengaged and will get more life for DSG ?
Think of it as if you are driving a manual car. Will you depress the clutch and leave the gearbox in 1st gear all the way till the traffic light turns green? Technically speaking for DSG, when you shift to neutral, the solenoids will 'rest'.
Perfect explanation, can’t be any better.
Brilliant video! Thanks 🙏🏻
Does this apply to DQ200 dry clutch gearbox too?
What's the little circle within the rev needle on the digital cluster that moves with it? Does it flash when you hit redline or anything? Also how much of a pain was it coding the speed limit sign recognition to work?
What is the maximum clutch pressure after tuned?
Is there a different comparing to stock calibration?
Surely the whole point of sport mode is that you want it to set off faster so it would be fairly pointless if it was not good for it to sit at lights etc?
in sports mode at least does the gear changes faster so doesn't take long in take to the 3rd gear and 4th gear thing that in drive mode happens but with certain lag, that I noticed I have tried using the sports mode and just that I noticed in a Skoda Fabia now doesn't know if have the dry clutch dsg or the wet version of the DSG gearbox
@@megacap55 Yeah, my personal experience is that in sports mode an auto car will rev higher between shifts and so accelerate more between gear changes. Arguably auto does change quicker but then auto also has more gears to change to achieve the same high speed having maybe 7 or 8 gears (possibly more on some cars) instead of 6 so I would say it's smoother rather than quicker than someone good at manual changes. I drive both but not high power cars so maybe I don't see as much benefit from auto.
when in in heavy traffic i use manual mode or S also and use N at stop, i also even feel shencsr just sliping, its like manual car
wow very interesting i love how you explained it
Well played sir very well played
All this makes me miss the simplicity of just being able too just drive with out a worry..I miss my 2002 tahoe
There was once where I put my car (having DSG trans) in M1 mode while I was stuck in a traffic jam, and was just crawling in M1, suddenly my gearbox high temp alert came on, and I had to park the car on the road side to let the gearbox cooldown. Question, is my putting of M1 gear while crawling the root cause of gearbox overheat?
For some reason when in M1 and letting the car role it over heats some kind of clutch module I can’t remember what’s it’s called it may not be an exact module but it’s something like that and it over heats
any tutorial for setup up this?
Big fan of data driven decisions 🎉