The bte thickness will vary along the edge. We should always check multiple areas to verify. This information is helpful in rope cutting testing to compare between models and brands. Heck even the same model could vary in bte thickness in mass production or custom knives along the whole edge. A range or an average is good data to go along with edge retention testing. If your cutting with just a 1" section a single value will likely suffice. I'd like to share a culmination of knife information, could you send your email add. UA-cam won't let me provide links. Anyone else that's interested, can also reply with their email address and I'll also send you the links.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I got the conversation open - there is a ton of good stuff, thank you for sharing. It will take me a while to surf and skim it. Thanks bro.
Will do - I've already sent that "Microstructure Matters" video to several people because it changed the way I saw composition (realizing that thermal cycling actually changes the structures and composition of carbides and steel drastically). I'll do the same with other helpful materials. Thanks for taking the time to compile it all!
Nice! I would agree, although I've not had many that are thinner, so time will tell if I enjoy less than 15 thou even more! My Victorinox paring knives are like 6 thou which is ludicrous, and it feels goooood in the kitchen. Thanks for your (more experienced) feedback, always a pleasure.
I remember when you made your own extra slicey knife when you couldn't find a sturdy one that cut like an Opinel. I want to bring your attention to the Hogue Deka Gen 2 in Magnacut (clip point version). 2.1 oz, 0.094 stock thickness, and ground flat to a very fine apex. Around $130 USD, and in my opinion, an upgrade over a Bugout in every way. I've only had mine for less than a week, but it's the best slicer I own, and I feel like the Magnacut makes me not need to worry about micro-chipping despite the very thin behind the edge profile.
Yeah I can already tell that the Manly is an awesome design, but the edge and the fit and finish may require some minor tweaks. I still really like it overall though.
I finally got that Robert Herder knife I was telling you about and man was it thin. My guess was 3 thou. My gauge goes down to 0.005(one of the reasons I got it vs a Chinese one plus it has finer increments) and the edge was sliding past off a bit. It wasn't very sharp but still cut paper ok and cardboard incredibly well just due the thickness (1.1mm stock, ffg with a slight convex I'm guessing and 3 thou edge) but I still had to sharpen it. At 30 inclusive its about 4 thou now, it's so close but between the gauge and my calipers(they're decent ones made by igauging) it looks to be about that thickness. Looking forward to your tests if these knives and messing around with sharpening. You always come up with great, interesting and useful content. Thanks for the shout out, it's always cool to hear a mention from a UA-camr I enjoy.
I'd say BTE thickness and grind slope both matter a lot, along with edge angle. Some tasks care more about some of the 3 factors than others, but overall they're all important. For example food prep depends on all 3, but wood carving I find does best with lower edge angles almost regardless of other geometry factors, hence the thick scandi knives with very acute edges. Another interesting thing is with very thin edges like an opinel it seems like edge angle matters less for cutting performance, I expect because the angle is having its effect on such a small area.
When you Baton wood you need to have a specific shape to do it efficiently. Generally the edge won't touch the wood other than the initial chop into the wood then the outer sides of the knife break the wood apart. So you are on point that the shape overall is dependent on the task being performed.
@@tacticalcenter8658 That's true. I consider wood carving and splitting separate tasks, although in some cases you might use the same knife for both. I've definitely had a bad experience trying to baton with a thinner machete style knife and had it bind because it wanted to sink in without splitting the wood apart. A batoning knife needs to be thick and obtuse enough to act as a wedge, ideally enough that the wood doesn't contact and drag along the entire flat of the blade.
@@joshstarkey8883 yup! I was just using that as an example. The heat treatment and steel has to be idea also, else it could snap easily regardless of thickness. No stress risers as well. Check out this crazy guy on UA-cam Joe X
@@tacticalcenter8658 Yeah, I tried to leave metallurgy out of it and just talk about geometry for simplicity's sake, but in reality the steel and heat treat determine what geometry you should have, and vice versa. I'll go look at that channel you mentioned.
@@joshstarkey8883 the guy is crazy but the advantage of his testing is that it shows possible defects or design issues. I hope you enjoy it and get a kick out of it. Entertaining to say the least.
Thanks for the video and nice comparision. Good job you my friend. ;) By the way I was a little bit disappointed by my bark River/sharpening idea recently and would love for you to actually test it on Bess and possibly rope. I've mixed two ideas of durable edge - made a dual grit 240/6000 edge with bit of 1 micron diamond paste and made it into 7 degree convex with my sharpening system - from 15 to 22 per side at the 2-3mm into the blade. Been striping oak trunk with knife stuck into piece of wood and used as a draw knife. Atfer like an hour/two of stripping the edge was like a jigsaw. I was shocked by that. Gonna repeat that with just a 7degree convex of 3000 grit and 1micron diamond paste soon but it'd be lit if you try to replicate such an edge and test it out with Bess score.
@@tacticalcenter8658 as a random dude on the internet I'd say no, of course not. But to be honest actually this didn't happen before when I had polished edge. Also wood type being oak infested heavily with woodworms was first and only one of a kind. I was pretty sure I removed foil off the edge but if it was present it might've been what's dragged pieces out. Considering it was cpm3v it was strange behaviour. When I remove by sharpening over time a milimetre of edge overheating problem should disappear, right?
Actually I have sort of found the same thing. I don't know if you caught it, but I sent a convexed dual grit 4V edge to Pete for testing which I sharpened with diamond abrasives - it cut 600 times and then 2 bits of edge broke off. So a rope test on convexed dual grit did ok in terms of number of cuts - but showed a significant lack of toughness: ua-cam.com/video/6JQfnYp6dgI/v-deo.html Also I found that there was an immediate drop in the sharpness of my 20 dps dual grit edge in the 1000 chop test: ua-cam.com/video/o9XiRc0yn7c/v-deo.html I repeated the test with an edge stropped on denim (17 degrees to begin with, but then convexed at the apex to a wider angle) and it proved to be much much more reliable and durable than the dual grit edge: ua-cam.com/video/C-QD3WIa_s4/v-deo.html This is why I've actually started stropping on hanging denim for my chopping knives, and I do dual grit only on my edc and kitchen knives, which seem to not be as affected by variances in apex stability. Sorry to send so many links, it's not self promotion and you don't need to watch them, I just wanted to give proof that I have observed the same phenomenon. The research article Todd Simpson wrote found that dual grit actually creates a thinned extension of the apex which boosts wear resistance, but I now believe it also decreases durability under high impact applications.
@@homeslicesharpening about the edge falling off with the bur .. I was listening to knife steel nerds latest video on UA-cam with Sean about nitrogen steels. Give it a listen. It might have to do with the heat treatment protocol. He explains why in the video. Not sure if it relates here, but it might indirectly.
Thanks for sharing your wire gauge find! So civivi factory edges typically 25 degrees per side. That makes the thickness behind edge very low, but that high angle means slicyness via edge aggression degrades quickly. I tend to find spyderco factory edge (15-17 degrees) to be more slicy overall despite being thicker behind the edge. Any thoughts on the inverse relationship between edge angle and behind the edge thickness? Lowering the angle increases slicyness yet doing so increases behind edge thickness decreasing slicyness. And vice versa.
Interesting! 25 Degrees is pretty steep! I think I appreciate low BTE thickness because I can redo the edge angle, but I don't have the gear to redo an entire grind in order to reduce BTE thickness. I agree that Spyderco's 15ish degree bevels are awesome for sliceyness, and better than a thin edge at a wide angle for retained aggression. What will be most informative is when I reprofile the Civivi to 17dps and re-measure the BTE thickness. Because it will show whether they are actually leaving the edge thinner than Spyderco, or just more obtuse. Testing to come - thanks for the awesome comment!
This is a great idea, and I think it'll be really easy to measure compared to calipers! Nothing wrong with a gauge 🙂 On the other hand, if your want calipers, you can get hough quality used dial calipers very affordably, and they're much more intuitive than digital!
Also! About slicing ability, it's helpful additionally to measure thickness further behind the edge - on kitchen knives, it's common to measure 1cm back. Perhaps 5mm would be good for pocket knives. I've been really curious about S90V sharpening protocols - while I don't have that steel, it interests me because other people (including Justin) report lower sharpness of the working edge, and it seems like optimized sharpening could shift that somewhat.
@@knickly there is a video on this specifically about s90v. Check out kknives of Switzerland on UA-cam and choose his video titled What makes a knife sharp?
@@tacticalcenter8658 thanks! I respect Roman a lot, though I imagine he'd phrase some of that differently these days, especially not citing carbide pullout. Carbide size has been my suspected culprit, but I suspect it has more to do with cracking across each carbide leading to the material near the apex sloughing off. What I really wonder is whether the degree of blunting can be limited by optimized geometry and fatigue conditions. The really interesting thing, though, is that working edges are still sub-micron, despite multi-micron carbide size in S90V.
@@knickly Yeah, you could - great ideas! I also turn the slope of the grind into a rating that I can directly compare. As some will point out it's not perfect because grind lines are rarely perfectly straight, but it serves as a good rule of thumb - I talk about it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/peKSyNMfXeE/v-deo.html
What does behind the edge thickness show? Why do we measure that? Does it prove better edge geometry? I like thin spine knives. Earth Skills knife is one-eighth inch spine, but about two inches wide and eight inches long. TJ Schwartz Overland fixed blade looks thinner than the Earth Skills knife. TJ Schwartz Overland and Civivii Conspirator are my sharpest knives! They aren't just over sharpened, they basically are set up to cut in a Sharp manner. I don't know, my Spyderco in HAP-40 sus 410 might be even more set up for sharpness. I guess I don't want to use up the factory edge to find out. I saw a person"whittle hair" with HAP-40.
BTE thickness is one metric, it can be super helpful for determining fitness for certain tasks. The thicker a knife's edge, usually the more resistant it will be to chipping and warping during heavy use. The thinner it is, the nicer it will slide through most materials. Woodwork and Scandi's are an example of an exception, I am sure your Earth Skills knife totally rocks for outdoors work despite being an eighth of an inch "behind the edge" since the whole scandi grind is the edge. This is because wood often responds better to an acute edge angle (even if it's thick) than a thinner edge at a more obtuse angle. I noticed that the Kershaw cut an apple much less satisfyingly than the Manly, though they are roughly the same blade thickness and grind height. How strange right? The performance should be similar. This curious difference can be explained by behind the edge thickness. Think of it this way, everything is on a scale from thicker edge that tapers up to the spine in more vertical lines (like a Machete) to a zero ground full flat grind which has no secondary edge and has a long diagonal taper to the spine. The Kershaw has been profiled more "machete-like" and it makes the edge more durable and ruins the apple cutting experience as you try to plunge a thick edge through the apple. The manly is closer to the zero grind, with very little secondary (edge) bevel. Therefore it slides through the apple smoothly, because of its almost continuous taper. Does that make sense? Maybe I should make a video.
@@ssunfish Haha, yes, I was making a joke. Like technically a scandi grind has only one bevel, so the grind IS the edge and the edge IS the grind, and therefore the edge stops tapering at the full thickness of the blade. Technically speaking on a true Scandi grind the behind the edge thickness and the blade stock thickness are the same. I was just making the joke to say "Behind the edge thickness isn't everything or else all true Scandi's would suck, and they don't - in fact, they are awesome. So, behind the edge thickness shows how the knife will perform on some tasks but not all - and there are always exceptions." A nice Scandi will feather stick some wood like nobody's business, but probably be miserable to cut up an apple. A kitchen knife (low BTE thickness) will be a dream to slice an apple, but be difficult to feather stick smoothly without accidentally cutting off the whole section you are working on.
i got an eafengrow or whatever off amazon. says it's d2 but it's not d2. it's stainless and grinds like butter. I know what d2 grinds like and I know what other steels grind like. but. most chinese knives are awesome. i got another one from some other brand, little ceo knife in d2 and it's actually D2 and you can easily tell. if that knife grinds like 440c then it's likely 440c not a fan of SOG but they are known for having keen edges from the box at least. not that it even matters. Anyone with one stone and a week of experience can do better any factory edges in 10 minutes.
Yeah, I heard that a UA-camr tested some of those D2 Eafengrow knives with a spectrometer and most were 5Cr15 or 3Cr13. I bought a QSP -they and Ganzo have a really good reputation for always using the steel that's stamped on the blade and heat treating it properly!
![Chris Langan - The Interview THEY Didn't Want You To See - CTMU [Full Version; Timestamps]](/img/n.gif)
This is getting really serious about all different blade steels Gabe. I sense a pretty awesome testing series coming up! Have a great weekend.
Thank you my friend! I am pretty stoked to put these steels to the test!!!
@@homeslicesharpening so am I!
The bte thickness will vary along the edge. We should always check multiple areas to verify. This information is helpful in rope cutting testing to compare between models and brands. Heck even the same model could vary in bte thickness in mass production or custom knives along the whole edge. A range or an average is good data to go along with edge retention testing.
If your cutting with just a 1" section a single value will likely suffice.
I'd like to share a culmination of knife information, could you send your email add. UA-cam won't let me provide links.
Anyone else that's interested, can also reply with their email address and I'll also send you the links.
I put the link in my about section on my UA-cam profile. Looks like its getting updated every once in a while.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Sure, thank you my friend - I will check it out.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I got the conversation open - there is a ton of good stuff, thank you for sharing. It will take me a while to surf and skim it. Thanks bro.
@@homeslicesharpening you're welcome! Spread it around to help others if you find anything informative etc.
Will do - I've already sent that "Microstructure Matters" video to several people because it changed the way I saw composition (realizing that thermal cycling actually changes the structures and composition of carbides and steel drastically).
I'll do the same with other helpful materials. Thanks for taking the time to compile it all!
I find that .014-.016 bte is about right for an everyday user. Kitchen knives though I prefer much thinner
Nice! I would agree, although I've not had many that are thinner, so time will tell if I enjoy less than 15 thou even more!
My Victorinox paring knives are like 6 thou which is ludicrous, and it feels goooood in the kitchen.
Thanks for your (more experienced) feedback, always a pleasure.
I remember when you made your own extra slicey knife when you couldn't find a sturdy one that cut like an Opinel. I want to bring your attention to the Hogue Deka Gen 2 in Magnacut (clip point version). 2.1 oz, 0.094 stock thickness, and ground flat to a very fine apex. Around $130 USD, and in my opinion, an upgrade over a Bugout in every way. I've only had mine for less than a week, but it's the best slicer I own, and I feel like the Magnacut makes me not need to worry about micro-chipping despite the very thin behind the edge profile.
Amazing! I've heard of it, but I will put it on the list to purchase eventually - I really value your input. Thanks bro!
I've had great experience with the heat treatments on Civivi D2 and Manly S90V, my Manly needed reprofiling from the factory though.
Yeah I can already tell that the Manly is an awesome design, but the edge and the fit and finish may require some minor tweaks. I still really like it overall though.
I finally got that Robert Herder knife I was telling you about and man was it thin. My guess was 3 thou. My gauge goes down to 0.005(one of the reasons I got it vs a Chinese one plus it has finer increments) and the edge was sliding past off a bit. It wasn't very sharp but still cut paper ok and cardboard incredibly well just due the thickness (1.1mm stock, ffg with a slight convex I'm guessing and 3 thou edge) but I still had to sharpen it. At 30 inclusive its about 4 thou now, it's so close but between the gauge and my calipers(they're decent ones made by igauging) it looks to be about that thickness.
Looking forward to your tests if these knives and messing around with sharpening. You always come up with great, interesting and useful content.
Thanks for the shout out, it's always cool to hear a mention from a UA-camr I enjoy.
Thanks bro - I hope you are feeling better!
I'd say BTE thickness and grind slope both matter a lot, along with edge angle. Some tasks care more about some of the 3 factors than others, but overall they're all important. For example food prep depends on all 3, but wood carving I find does best with lower edge angles almost regardless of other geometry factors, hence the thick scandi knives with very acute edges. Another interesting thing is with very thin edges like an opinel it seems like edge angle matters less for cutting performance, I expect because the angle is having its effect on such a small area.
When you Baton wood you need to have a specific shape to do it efficiently. Generally the edge won't touch the wood other than the initial chop into the wood then the outer sides of the knife break the wood apart.
So you are on point that the shape overall is dependent on the task being performed.
@@tacticalcenter8658 That's true. I consider wood carving and splitting separate tasks, although in some cases you might use the same knife for both. I've definitely had a bad experience trying to baton with a thinner machete style knife and had it bind because it wanted to sink in without splitting the wood apart. A batoning knife needs to be thick and obtuse enough to act as a wedge, ideally enough that the wood doesn't contact and drag along the entire flat of the blade.
@@joshstarkey8883 yup! I was just using that as an example. The heat treatment and steel has to be idea also, else it could snap easily regardless of thickness. No stress risers as well.
Check out this crazy guy on UA-cam Joe X
@@tacticalcenter8658 Yeah, I tried to leave metallurgy out of it and just talk about geometry for simplicity's sake, but in reality the steel and heat treat determine what geometry you should have, and vice versa. I'll go look at that channel you mentioned.
@@joshstarkey8883 the guy is crazy but the advantage of his testing is that it shows possible defects or design issues. I hope you enjoy it and get a kick out of it. Entertaining to say the least.
Thanks for the video and nice comparision. Good job you my friend. ;)
By the way I was a little bit disappointed by my bark River/sharpening idea recently and would love for you to actually test it on Bess and possibly rope. I've mixed two ideas of durable edge - made a dual grit 240/6000 edge with bit of 1 micron diamond paste and made it into 7 degree convex with my sharpening system - from 15 to 22 per side at the 2-3mm into the blade. Been striping oak trunk with knife stuck into piece of wood and used as a draw knife. Atfer like an hour/two of stripping the edge was like a jigsaw. I was shocked by that. Gonna repeat that with just a 7degree convex of 3000 grit and 1micron diamond paste soon but it'd be lit if you try to replicate such an edge and test it out with Bess score.
Bark river usually burn the edges when sharpening. I wonder if you have a severe burnt edge?
@@tacticalcenter8658 as a random dude on the internet I'd say no, of course not.
But to be honest actually this didn't happen before when I had polished edge. Also wood type being oak infested heavily with woodworms was first and only one of a kind. I was pretty sure I removed foil off the edge but if it was present it might've been what's dragged pieces out. Considering it was cpm3v it was strange behaviour. When I remove by sharpening over time a milimetre of edge overheating problem should disappear, right?
Actually I have sort of found the same thing.
I don't know if you caught it, but I sent a convexed dual grit 4V edge to Pete for testing which I sharpened with diamond abrasives - it cut 600 times and then 2 bits of edge broke off. So a rope test on convexed dual grit did ok in terms of number of cuts - but showed a significant lack of toughness:
ua-cam.com/video/6JQfnYp6dgI/v-deo.html
Also I found that there was an immediate drop in the sharpness of my 20 dps dual grit edge in the 1000 chop test:
ua-cam.com/video/o9XiRc0yn7c/v-deo.html
I repeated the test with an edge stropped on denim (17 degrees to begin with, but then convexed at the apex to a wider angle) and it proved to be much much more reliable and durable than the dual grit edge:
ua-cam.com/video/C-QD3WIa_s4/v-deo.html
This is why I've actually started stropping on hanging denim for my chopping knives, and I do dual grit only on my edc and kitchen knives, which seem to not be as affected by variances in apex stability.
Sorry to send so many links, it's not self promotion and you don't need to watch them, I just wanted to give proof that I have observed the same phenomenon. The research article Todd Simpson wrote found that dual grit actually creates a thinned extension of the apex which boosts wear resistance, but I now believe it also decreases durability under high impact applications.
@@homeslicesharpening about the edge falling off with the bur .. I was listening to knife steel nerds latest video on UA-cam with Sean about nitrogen steels. Give it a listen. It might have to do with the heat treatment protocol. He explains why in the video. Not sure if it relates here, but it might indirectly.
@@tacticalcenter8658 I definitely will.
This is really cool! Thanks for posting
No problem, I hope you get a guage and it brings you joy haha!
Thanks for the video! 😀👍
No problem! I am having so much fun with this new tool!
Sweet.😝🤘🔪🔪🔪 postage from the states is crazy at the moment. Lucky you having free postage thru family.👏👏👏😄👍
Sorry bro - postage from the states is INSANE since Covid. I think there were some wire guages on TradeMe though.
Cheers mate.
@@homeslicesharpening all good bro. Love your videos.
@@jasonedwardledburynewzeala9897 Thanks Jason - nice to see you in the comments again - take care!
Thanks for sharing your wire gauge find! So civivi factory edges typically 25 degrees per side. That makes the thickness behind edge very low, but that high angle means slicyness via edge aggression degrades quickly. I tend to find spyderco factory edge (15-17 degrees) to be more slicy overall despite being thicker behind the edge. Any thoughts on the inverse relationship between edge angle and behind the edge thickness? Lowering the angle increases slicyness yet doing so increases behind edge thickness decreasing slicyness. And vice versa.
Interesting! 25 Degrees is pretty steep! I think I appreciate low BTE thickness because I can redo the edge angle, but I don't have the gear to redo an entire grind in order to reduce BTE thickness.
I agree that Spyderco's 15ish degree bevels are awesome for sliceyness, and better than a thin edge at a wide angle for retained aggression.
What will be most informative is when I reprofile the Civivi to 17dps and re-measure the BTE thickness. Because it will show whether they are actually leaving the edge thinner than Spyderco, or just more obtuse.
Testing to come - thanks for the awesome comment!
@@homeslicesharpeningSounds great! Looking forward to to forthcoming testing!
@@KaiMastaK Thanks!
This is a great idea, and I think it'll be really easy to measure compared to calipers! Nothing wrong with a gauge 🙂
On the other hand, if your want calipers, you can get hough quality used dial calipers very affordably, and they're much more intuitive than digital!
Also! About slicing ability, it's helpful additionally to measure thickness further behind the edge - on kitchen knives, it's common to measure 1cm back. Perhaps 5mm would be good for pocket knives.
I've been really curious about S90V sharpening protocols - while I don't have that steel, it interests me because other people (including Justin) report lower sharpness of the working edge, and it seems like optimized sharpening could shift that somewhat.
@@knickly there is a video on this specifically about s90v. Check out kknives of Switzerland on UA-cam and choose his video titled What makes a knife sharp?
@@tacticalcenter8658 thanks! I respect Roman a lot, though I imagine he'd phrase some of that differently these days, especially not citing carbide pullout.
Carbide size has been my suspected culprit, but I suspect it has more to do with cracking across each carbide leading to the material near the apex sloughing off. What I really wonder is whether the degree of blunting can be limited by optimized geometry and fatigue conditions.
The really interesting thing, though, is that working edges are still sub-micron, despite multi-micron carbide size in S90V.
@@knickly Yeah, you could - great ideas! I also turn the slope of the grind into a rating that I can directly compare. As some will point out it's not perfect because grind lines are rarely perfectly straight, but it serves as a good rule of thumb - I talk about it in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/peKSyNMfXeE/v-deo.html
What does behind the edge thickness show? Why do we measure that? Does it prove better edge geometry?
I like thin spine knives. Earth Skills knife is one-eighth inch spine, but about two inches wide and eight inches long. TJ Schwartz Overland fixed blade looks thinner than the Earth Skills knife. TJ Schwartz Overland and Civivii Conspirator are my sharpest knives! They aren't just over sharpened, they basically are set up to cut in a Sharp manner. I don't know, my Spyderco in HAP-40 sus 410 might be even more set up for sharpness. I guess I don't want to use up the factory edge to find out. I saw a person"whittle hair" with HAP-40.
BTE thickness is one metric, it can be super helpful for determining fitness for certain tasks. The thicker a knife's edge, usually the more resistant it will be to chipping and warping during heavy use. The thinner it is, the nicer it will slide through most materials.
Woodwork and Scandi's are an example of an exception, I am sure your Earth Skills knife totally rocks for outdoors work despite being an eighth of an inch "behind the edge" since the whole scandi grind is the edge. This is because wood often responds better to an acute edge angle (even if it's thick) than a thinner edge at a more obtuse angle.
I noticed that the Kershaw cut an apple much less satisfyingly than the Manly, though they are roughly the same blade thickness and grind height. How strange right? The performance should be similar.
This curious difference can be explained by behind the edge thickness. Think of it this way, everything is on a scale from thicker edge that tapers up to the spine in more vertical lines (like a Machete) to a zero ground full flat grind which has no secondary edge and has a long diagonal taper to the spine.
The Kershaw has been profiled more "machete-like" and it makes the edge more durable and ruins the apple cutting experience as you try to plunge a thick edge through the apple. The manly is closer to the zero grind, with very little secondary (edge) bevel. Therefore it slides through the apple smoothly, because of its almost continuous taper.
Does that make sense?
Maybe I should make a video.
Yes, it makes sense.
Earth Skills knife is one right inch SPINE, I don't know bte thickness
@@ssunfish Haha, yes, I was making a joke. Like technically a scandi grind has only one bevel, so the grind IS the edge and the edge IS the grind, and therefore the edge stops tapering at the full thickness of the blade.
Technically speaking on a true Scandi grind the behind the edge thickness and the blade stock thickness are the same.
I was just making the joke to say "Behind the edge thickness isn't everything or else all true Scandi's would suck, and they don't - in fact, they are awesome. So, behind the edge thickness shows how the knife will perform on some tasks but not all - and there are always exceptions."
A nice Scandi will feather stick some wood like nobody's business, but probably be miserable to cut up an apple. A kitchen knife (low BTE thickness) will be a dream to slice an apple, but be difficult to feather stick smoothly without accidentally cutting off the whole section you are working on.
i got an eafengrow or whatever off amazon. says it's d2 but it's not d2. it's stainless and grinds like butter. I know what d2 grinds like and I know what other steels grind like. but. most chinese knives are awesome. i got another one from some other brand, little ceo knife in d2 and it's actually D2 and you can easily tell. if that knife grinds like 440c then it's likely 440c
not a fan of SOG but they are known for having keen edges from the box at least. not that it even matters. Anyone with one stone and a week of experience can do better any factory edges in 10 minutes.
Yeah, I heard that a UA-camr tested some of those D2 Eafengrow knives with a spectrometer and most were 5Cr15 or 3Cr13. I bought a QSP -they and Ganzo have a really good reputation for always using the steel that's stamped on the blade and heat treating it properly!
@@homeslicesharpening right on. i just said 440c because it's another very common steel they use in low cost mass production over there.