Thank you!! after about 50 trips from the basement (breaker box) to my 2nd floor and trying so many different ways, I watched your video and now BOTH switches are working. Thank you for those diagrams they were so helpful. I thought it was as simple as swapping one 3 way for another not realizing I had to make a live wire in the 2nd switch now.
Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about! After viewing your tutorial and following it step-by-step, they're working! Thank you for taking the time to explain/show us how it's done!
Great job! I had to work my way through installing several of these in my house, including a couple of three-way switches. I can't emphasize enough that the FEIT switch has to be the FIRST switch that is wired to the panel directly. The FEIT switch will not function if it is in the second position. Also, do not mix up the load lines and the ACL (live load) lines. After you pull your old switch out, you can cap the wiring and then turn on the power. The line that has power when you test will be the ACL line or the power-in line. The ACL line is directly attached to the service panel. Once you find the ACL wire that goes to the panel, then the other black wire is the load wire that goes to the light. One trick to figure out which switch is FIRST in connected to the panel is to check the distance from the panel. Almost always the closest switch will be the first switch connected to the panel by the electricians. This makes sense because the electricians wire the second switch to the first position switch AFTER the first switch is installed. DO cover up the lug screws with electrical tape as shown in the video. It will save you a world of time.
Thanks a million for doing this video. I spent hours troubleshooting my existing 3 way switch setup (1960s) home trying to get it to work, and i continued to either have one switch work and shut the other off or nothing working whatsoever. During this process I found I have a "radical" or California switch setup. After simply looking at the diagram you posted I realized why I was having the issues I was, and simply changed my setup to mimic the diagram posted. Viola, all working as it should.
OMG it took me so long to figure out how to wire up my Feit Dimmer switch in a 3-way configuration. Wish I'd seen this video first. Thanks for sharing!
I followed your excellent, understandable directions exactly. The switch I added to the existing 3 way circuit already had a Feit dimmer at the line in and load box. The FEIT instructions failed as the new smart switch did nothing but light up with the original. It would not switch or dim. Checked, rechecked and tried again the next day. Followed the youtube instructions which differed from the Feit with the same result. Since I bought a 2 pack and had plans for the other I tried changing the new switch. It worked !!!!! These smart switches work great but troubleshooting is challenging.
Great video! Is there a way to set up the first switch be a normal one (on/off) and second switch to be the Feit Smart Dimmer? I need to do this due to the location of my switches, I followed your video but switched the sequence, now the dimmer works fine but first works like a main control, if it goes off smart switch (2 switch) won't able to turn light on.
@@shamerz17 Unfortunately, this issue doesn't seem to have been resolved. The question simply gets ignored(several times) in this video, as well as another one he put out(also several times). I'm having the same issue, I can get the switch and dimmer to work fine, but it cannot be controlled from the far side(whether it's a regular 3-way switch or another smart dimmer. I know of two other houses where this is how the 3 way switches are configured/installed power on one end, load on the other end. BTW, Feit is no help! I asked them for a schematic, they sent me two, one for regular(not smart) switches in a 3-way configuration and another for a 4-way configuration.
@Chele829 , my understanding is your 1st switch connected to hot line and 2nd connected to load. I believe there are 2 Traveller lines from 1st to 2nd, one of that you can connect to hot line in first switch so that 2nd switch also gets hot line, then you can connect dimmer in 2nd switch, now both should work as you expected
Thanks for the video. One suggestion I would make is to utilize the strip gauge on the back of the switch and insert the wires into the back of the switch. The screws can then be tightened with a screwdriver creating a nice tight wire.
How did you run hot/line wire to both of the switches at 1:52? In the first diagram without Feit switches, you have only 1 side with hot wire. Please help clarify.
Thanks a lot! Your explanations and your nice but simple sketches helped me a lot! I had one 3-way light that was causing me some headache trying to figure out how it was wired. It ended up that I had no neutral wire in either switch boxes. What is weird is that in all my other switch boxes around the house, all of them had a neutral wire. I was able to setup this stubborn 3-way light by getting a neutral wire from an outlet near one of the circuit switches. Thanks again!
This is a great video that explains the Feit install so much better than the Feit Installation instructions! Thank you! I have one question... do you have a diagram that shows wiring for a 4 way switch configuration? My kitchen lights are controlled by 3 light switches. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
great video, I have a question for you, when you showed the initial setup with regular switches, your load wire was on the 2nd switch, and that was changed to be on the 1st switch for the 2nd configuration, how did you do that? my configuration is my load is on the 2nd switch and my line from breacker is on my 1st switch, I cannot install the smart switch on the 2nd switch due to space restrictions, do you think it is possible to do on the 1st switch?
Great video! Looking at these switches to purchase. Quick question, can this switch be used on the "load" side switch versus the "line" switch? Physical location of my 3-way switch I want to replace with one these is the one that connects to the light fixtures. Cheers!
Great video but I have a 4-way set of switches (3 switches total) and I can’t seem to get it to work. I followed your diagram for the two three ways and left the 4-way alone. Is it even possible to add the dimmer with a 4-way? Any help would be appreciated.
Yes. Must use fiet dimmers in all switches and wire red traveler to line on all switches and black traveler to AC-L. Took us a solid minute to figure this out. And of course, while on all AC-N on all switches.
Hello. I currently have a 3way switch wired with the light between the switches. How and where would I add the Feit switch? I could send a diagram of my current wiring if that helps you help me.
Great Video. Is it possible for you to create a video or a diagram on how to connect using 1 Feit smart dimmer only on a 4 way configuration (14/2 Line->3way(14/3)->4way(14/3)->3way->14/2 to Light).
I am stumped. I have my Feit working at either of my locations that has the 3 way switch. On one I have the Line, Ground, Neutral. Then there is the line to other switch. I have a traveller wire of Black, Red, and Neutral going to secondary dumb 3 way switch. The load line to the light is in the secondary location and has Black, White, and Ground going to light. Neutral is currently tied up with the others. How do I need to setup this box to allow control from this second location? Right now, I have the Line from panel connecting to AC/L, Red traveller in the YL/RD, Neutral in AC-N. I'm using the other traveller to go from Load on smart switch, all the way to the other switch. I think this may be where I'm wrong. NO matter what changes I make, I can only get the smart switch to work and not the dumb one. Any hope or do I just need to cap off the other switches.
Thanks for sharing this but in my wiring. there is no load wire in line box. the lights are in the centrr of both switches. so in first box I only have neutral, ground, line, T1, T2 and the second box I have t1, t2 and load and ground. there is no neutral wire and the second box. on both sides the wire running from the light to swith box has 3 wires plus bare ground wire. What should I do in this scenario. Another thing to note in my wiring is that the Black traveler from line box connects to the white wire from load box near the switch thats in the middle of the two switches. This way in the load box the white and red are the travelers and black is load that is connected to the light. Please help
Great explanation... I recently installed two, and it worked in the kitchen. Trying to do in the basement breaker is tripping. Any help will be appreciated...!!!
I hope this works on my Moes 3 way. using the Dummy switch just as a "Signal Event" to the smart switch is so much easier. My set up now removes the power to the wifi in one position of the Dummy, then returns the power to the wifi in the 2nd position. Older home so I do not have neutral every whrere. Thanks for posting. This is great info.
I'm lost! I tried following the Feit diagram as best as possible but I don't know the wiring in the wall. Best function I can get. One way switch (or 3 way) in the up position dimmer works normally. If the lights are on the old switch turns off the lights but will not turn them back on if switched back. Old switch in OFF position the dimmer doesn't function at all. Did I figure the wires incorrectly? Sigh....
Eventually I tried to wire it exactly like in the diagram, and it still did not function properly. I purchased another pair at Costco and installed one. Everything immediately worked properly. FEIT support sent me a replacement for the defective one.
Excellent. Clear, concise, and very informative. It still took me a while to map out the wiring, but this gave me exactly what I needed to figure it out. Much better than the instructions that came with the switch.
I have a friend who has a similar set up. (1st switch dimmer and 2nd switch on/off) When they flip the switch on the light goes full power and then drops to half. Any idea what is wrong? Great video BTW
So I follow the direction and capped the traveler off But I am using ground as my neutral the main switch works however when I turn off the other switch I am getting 110 V rather than turning it off any idea why that is
I recently installed one in the basement and it works fine in wifi and manually but I need to hook one up on a circuit that has 4 switches controlling a light? Is that possible and if so can you show some kind of drawing please? Thanks Chris
Could you make a video demonstrating the same Feit switch with a 3 way and with a switch loop. I have Black lines connected to white wires. And if I just wire the Feit switch as the old switch it won’t work correctly
Hello - my switch is the opposite of what you have in your video. The incoming hot go to the left and the right side switch is the one that connects to the light bulb. Would you please do the updated video with the light bulb connect to the switch on the right side instead of the left? Thank you!!!!
My current setup (with 3 way switches controlling a couple of light fixtures) has the hot coming directly through the fixture (which is a pretty normal way to do this is my understanding). I am replacing the switch at the location where the hot from the fixture feeds. I am confused as to what goes where in this situation.
To add to my last post, I do have Line, Common and ground coming into first switch from circuit panel and leaving last switch going to lights. I also have T1, T2, Common and ground going between the 2 middle switches.
My problem, I believe, is the line hot from the standard switch is that it's not conveniently connected in the dimmer box to the load wire as shown, but instead at a junction box in the ceiling. Making this a little harder. I can get both switches to operate to separately, but only when both the second signal wire and hot wire are connected together in the standard switch box. When the standard switch is on, trying to turn it off by the dimmer will only brighten the light slightly, not turn it off and visa versa. Same on the standard switch side. The light will only be off when both switches are in the off position. That's where I stand right now. I'll update this post when I find out and complete this installation.
Good video, however isn't the old 3-way load switch black screw (vs gold traveler screws) connected not to the "hot/line" as you have depicted in your drawing but rather to the "load" connection? Disconnecting the old line switch connection would render the old load switch powerless if the travelers were not supplying the line power.
I think he more or less reversed the procedure. In accordance with Feit Installation Guide, you should leave the original 3 way switch in the junction box were the LIVE (hot) line comes in, while the new Feit smart dimmer should go were the LOAD fixture is connected. Another discrepancy is that the installation guide doesn't cap either if the traveller wires. They are all connected. I guess he's method eliminated the need for reworking the wiring inside the junction box where the original switch (LIVE) is staying, but somehow can lead to confusion those using the method delineated by the installation guide.
Awesome video, help me!!! My dimmer is connected and works perfectly but I am having trouble with the other switch. No matter how I wire the other switch, the other switch WILL NOT turn the lights on & off. Can you please help? Thanks!!!
@Sree Those dummies sent me a defective unit!!! I actually had it wired correctly - I thought I was losing my mind! Just ordered another one from Amazon and wired it exactly the same way, and it worked perfectly. Then I sent back the defective one. Good luck!
Is there a video to identify which wires are the travelers, load and hot? I am working in a location where I can use an ohm meter - so if I need to test continuity, it should be easy. The problem I am having is that my smart switch is always powered, but if I flip my remote 3 ways switch it will turn the power on/off to the light only. The smart switch is always powered. If the remote switch is "on" the smart switch will control the light. So... Its halfway working. It seemed very straightforward until it wasn't working the way I wanted it to... I mean, maybe this is how its supposed to work. Smart switch always works. the light is mainly controlled by the remote switch. I was thinking that I might need to move the smart switch to the other side of the circuit but I think I might be missing something as far as capping off the extra traveler... And now I'm not 100% sure certain which cables are my travelers since I can test one that I thought was a traveler on my far side and its always got power. I guess to sum it up, my question is: Do I need to hook the smart switch up to the closest outlet to the breaker box? I am guessing so - but both boxes appear to have a black/hot wire that stays hot no matter what the other side is doing (fully disconnected).
After over a year of the switch partially working, I finally took the time to figure out what was wrong with my wiring. (The smart switch worked fine - except the 3-way switch on the other side worked as an on/off switch for both the smart switch and load.) I had the Smart switch installed on the side the 3 way was supposed to be and used a volt and ohm meter to determine which were my hots, neutrals and travelers. Wasn't complicated, but still took a while since I needed to run a temporary string between the switches to help figure out/label the wires with an ohm meter.
Thank you thank you thank you! I followed your one-pole instructions last night and was successful on one light. Tonight I'll work on the 3-way dimmer and switch. I have a Google wifi that doesn't let me shut-off the 5ghz. Trying a protocol using two phones and a hotspot to trick the dimmers onto the Google wifi (I got it to work eventually with the AP setting and the slow blink setting on the dimmer)
I bought an ordinary smart switch thinking it would replace one of my two switches controlling the overhead kitchen lights. I installed it and it works great except that the conventional switch turns off both the lights, and the smart switch. Not being an electrician, I did not foresee this. If I think positive and use some imagination, this setup actually has some advantages though I would prefer the conventional switch just turned off the lights. Anyway, I watched the video but this is all too complicated for me to figure it out and I think I'll just leave well enough alone.
Yes, the regular switch needs to be connected to the incoming power. The smart switch needs to be connected to the fixture. The smart switch needs to be programmed to the wifi. There is a couple of seconds delay when switching off the power from regular switch.
@@pauljimenez1165 i did everything you described. The dimmer works fine and its connected to my wifi. However the regular switch does not work. It does not control the light. I am not able to find the reason.
Thank you!! after about 50 trips from the basement (breaker box) to my 2nd floor and trying so many different ways, I watched your video and now BOTH switches are working. Thank you for those diagrams they were so helpful. I thought it was as simple as swapping one 3 way for another not realizing I had to make a live wire in the 2nd switch now.
Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about! After viewing your tutorial and following it step-by-step, they're working! Thank you for taking the time to explain/show us how it's done!
Glad to help!
Great job! I had to work my way through installing several of these in my house, including a couple of three-way switches. I can't emphasize enough that the FEIT switch has to be the FIRST switch that is wired to the panel directly. The FEIT switch will not function if it is in the second position. Also, do not mix up the load lines and the ACL (live load) lines. After you pull your old switch out, you can cap the wiring and then turn on the power. The line that has power when you test will be the ACL line or the power-in line. The ACL line is directly attached to the service panel. Once you find the ACL wire that goes to the panel, then the other black wire is the load wire that goes to the light.
One trick to figure out which switch is FIRST in connected to the panel is to check the distance from the panel. Almost always the closest switch will be the first switch connected to the panel by the electricians. This makes sense because the electricians wire the second switch to the first position switch AFTER the first switch is installed.
DO cover up the lug screws with electrical tape as shown in the video. It will save you a world of time.
Thanks a million for doing this video. I spent hours troubleshooting my existing 3 way switch setup (1960s) home trying to get it to work, and i continued to either have one switch work and shut the other off or nothing working whatsoever. During this process I found I have a "radical" or California switch setup. After simply looking at the diagram you posted I realized why I was having the issues I was, and simply changed my setup to mimic the diagram posted. Viola, all working as it should.
OMG it took me so long to figure out how to wire up my Feit Dimmer switch in a 3-way configuration. Wish I'd seen this video first. Thanks for sharing!
Great video and walkthrough!!! I was wondering if you have a video/instructions for 4-way switch configuration. Thanks again
I followed your excellent, understandable directions exactly. The switch I added to the existing 3 way circuit already had a Feit dimmer at the line in and load box. The FEIT instructions failed as the new smart switch did nothing but light up with the original. It would not switch or dim. Checked, rechecked and tried again the next day. Followed the youtube instructions which differed from the Feit with the same result. Since I bought a 2 pack and had plans for the other I tried changing the new switch. It worked !!!!! These smart switches work great but troubleshooting is challenging.
Thank you for your proper detail instructions. I followed other you tuber instructions and they were not enough details. Yours was the best🎉
Thank you! I have been trying to do the 3-way with Feit dimmer switch bought from Costco. I will give it a try again after watching your video.
Great video! Is there a way to set up the first switch be a normal one (on/off) and second switch to be the Feit Smart Dimmer? I need to do this due to the location of my switches, I followed your video but switched the sequence, now the dimmer works fine but first works like a main control, if it goes off smart switch (2 switch) won't able to turn light on.
I'm having the same issue
Was this issue ever figured out?
@@shamerz17 Unfortunately, this issue doesn't seem to have been resolved. The question simply gets ignored(several times) in this video, as well as another one he put out(also several times). I'm having the same issue, I can get the switch and dimmer to work fine, but it cannot be controlled from the far side(whether it's a regular 3-way switch or another smart dimmer. I know of two other houses where this is how the 3 way switches are configured/installed power on one end, load on the other end. BTW, Feit is no help! I asked them for a schematic, they sent me two, one for regular(not smart) switches in a 3-way configuration and another for a 4-way configuration.
@Chele829 , my understanding is your 1st switch connected to hot line and 2nd connected to load. I believe there are 2 Traveller lines from 1st to 2nd, one of that you can connect to hot line in first switch so that 2nd switch also gets hot line, then you can connect dimmer in 2nd switch, now both should work as you expected
Thanks for the video. One suggestion I would make is to utilize the strip gauge on the back of the switch and insert the wires into the back of the switch. The screws can then be tightened with a screwdriver creating a nice tight wire.
I agree with this. It's much cleaner and easier if you need to make changes.
Electricians don’t like backstabbing as it can lead to future shorts if they get loose.
How did you run hot/line wire to both of the switches at 1:52? In the first diagram without Feit switches, you have only 1 side with hot wire. Please help clarify.
Thanks a lot! Your explanations and your nice but simple sketches helped me a lot! I had one 3-way light that was causing me some headache trying to figure out how it was wired. It ended up that I had no neutral wire in either switch boxes. What is weird is that in all my other switch boxes around the house, all of them had a neutral wire.
I was able to setup this stubborn 3-way light by getting a neutral wire from an outlet near one of the circuit switches.
Thanks again!
Glad to hear it worked out! Thanks for the helpful comment and watching.
This is a great video that explains the Feit install so much better than the Feit Installation instructions! Thank you! I have one question... do you have a diagram that shows wiring for a 4 way switch configuration? My kitchen lights are controlled by 3 light switches. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
It should be the same
great video, I have a question for you, when you showed the initial setup with regular switches, your load wire was on the 2nd switch, and that was changed to be on the 1st switch for the 2nd configuration, how did you do that? my configuration is my load is on the 2nd switch and my line from breacker is on my 1st switch, I cannot install the smart switch on the 2nd switch due to space restrictions, do you think it is possible to do on the 1st switch?
Can you do one for a 4 way switch needing neutral possibly with eaton wifi switch im stuck on mine
Thank you. Feit and Costco should pay you a commission.
Great video! Looking at these switches to purchase. Quick question, can this switch be used on the "load" side switch versus the "line" switch? Physical location of my 3-way switch I want to replace with one these is the one that connects to the light fixtures. Cheers!
Great video but I have a 4-way set of switches (3 switches total) and I can’t seem to get it to work. I followed your diagram for the two three ways and left the 4-way alone. Is it even possible to add the dimmer with a 4-way? Any help would be appreciated.
Yes. Must use fiet dimmers in all switches and wire red traveler to line on all switches and black traveler to AC-L. Took us a solid minute to figure this out. And of course, while on all AC-N on all switches.
Hello. I currently have a 3way switch wired with the light between the switches. How and where would I add the Feit switch?
I could send a diagram of my current wiring if that helps you help me.
Great Video. Is it possible for you to create a video or a diagram on how to connect using 1 Feit smart dimmer only on a 4 way configuration (14/2 Line->3way(14/3)->4way(14/3)->3way->14/2 to Light).
Good video. Thanks for sharing! Can this be installed on a 4-way circuit?
Hi, did you ever get an answer to your question? I’m trying the same thing.
Watching
Yes u can i barely did ir
@@djericmichigan did you make a video?
I am stumped. I have my Feit working at either of my locations that has the 3 way switch. On one I have the Line, Ground, Neutral. Then there is the line to other switch. I have a traveller wire of Black, Red, and Neutral going to secondary dumb 3 way switch. The load line to the light is in the secondary location and has Black, White, and Ground going to light. Neutral is currently tied up with the others. How do I need to setup this box to allow control from this second location?
Right now, I have the Line from panel connecting to AC/L, Red traveller in the YL/RD, Neutral in AC-N. I'm using the other traveller to go from Load on smart switch, all the way to the other switch. I think this may be where I'm wrong.
NO matter what changes I make, I can only get the smart switch to work and not the dumb one.
Any hope or do I just need to cap off the other switches.
Thanks for sharing this but in my wiring. there is no load wire in line box. the lights are in the centrr of both switches. so in first box I only have neutral, ground, line, T1, T2 and the second box I have t1, t2 and load and ground. there is no neutral wire and the second box. on both sides the wire running from the light to swith box has 3 wires plus bare ground wire. What should I do in this scenario.
Another thing to note in my wiring is that the Black traveler from line box connects to the white wire from load box near the switch thats in the middle of the two switches. This way in the load box the white and red are the travelers and black is load that is connected to the light.
Please help
Great explanation... I recently installed two, and it worked in the kitchen.
Trying to do in the basement breaker is tripping. Any help will be appreciated...!!!
I hope this works on my Moes 3 way. using the Dummy switch just as a "Signal Event" to the smart switch is so much easier. My set up now removes the power to the wifi in one position of the Dummy, then returns the power to the wifi in the 2nd position. Older home so I do not have neutral every whrere. Thanks for posting. This is great info.
I'm lost! I tried following the Feit diagram as best as possible but I don't know the wiring in the wall. Best function I can get. One way switch (or 3 way) in the up position dimmer works normally. If the lights are on the old switch turns off the lights but will not turn them back on if switched back. Old switch in OFF position the dimmer doesn't function at all. Did I figure the wires incorrectly? Sigh....
Eventually I tried to wire it exactly like in the diagram, and it still did not function properly. I purchased another pair at Costco and installed one. Everything immediately worked properly. FEIT support sent me a replacement for the defective one.
I have the same problem!!! So you're saying the Feit dimmer switch was defective?
Ok I get it - wiring diagram in the first 3 mins explained it all - thanks!
Excellent. Clear, concise, and very informative. It still took me a while to map out the wiring, but this gave me exactly what I needed to figure it out. Much better than the instructions that came with the switch.
Where can I find the link for video for connecting two Feit 3 way switches, versus 1. Thanks
Brian this video shows you how: ua-cam.com/video/AkXJSvSlH94/v-deo.html
Excellent video.. To the point and got exactly the info i needed.
When I'm done will the existing 3way sw still be able to turn the light on and off like normal
I have a friend who has a similar set up. (1st switch dimmer and 2nd switch on/off) When they flip the switch on the light goes full power and then drops to half. Any idea what is wrong? Great video BTW
So I follow the direction and capped the traveler off But I am using ground as my neutral the main switch works however when I turn off the other switch I am getting 110 V rather than turning it off any idea why that is
Excellent presentation, clear and crisp. Can you show me the link for dimmer with a standard on off switch ? Thanks
Thanks for video! Suggestion, more lighting, and organize wiring
Noted! Thanks for watching! I made this video on the road so my setup wasn’t great but hopefully it was still helpful!
I recently installed one in the basement and it works fine in wifi and manually but I need to hook one up on a circuit that has 4 switches controlling a light? Is that possible and if so can you show some kind of drawing please? Thanks Chris
I hooked up as you described but my three way switch does nothing but smart dimmer works
Could you make a video demonstrating the same Feit switch with a 3 way and with a switch loop.
I have Black lines connected to white wires. And if I just wire the Feit switch as the old switch it won’t work correctly
Hello - my switch is the opposite of what you have in your video. The incoming hot go to the left and the right side switch is the one that connects to the light bulb. Would you please do the updated video with the light bulb connect to the switch on the right side instead of the left? Thank you!!!!
I’m having the same problem, line comes in one box, load goes out the other box, so damn confused, ever figure yours out?
It doesn't work that way. It needs to be where the light load is otherwise it won't work.
So you can’t use it as a switch break?
If I don’t want to use this as a smart switch can I use it without using the neutral?
I don't think so, but I haven't tried that configuration.
My current setup (with 3 way switches controlling a couple of light fixtures) has the hot coming directly through the fixture (which is a pretty normal way to do this is my understanding). I am replacing the switch at the location where the hot from the fixture feeds. I am confused as to what goes where in this situation.
What will happen if neutral wire is not existing can I replace it with line wire in 110 v
I have the same setup but the load wire is on the other switch. Is there a way to wire that without the load going from the smart dimmer to the light.
Yes, for that situation just follow the wiring diagram in the Feit instructions provided with the dimmer.
Thank you so much, your video really helped me today.
To add to my last post, I do have Line, Common and ground coming into first switch from circuit panel and leaving last switch going to lights. I also have T1, T2, Common and ground going between the 2 middle switches.
What if the load wire to the light or receptacle is in the far box how do you get power to that box from the first box if I’m saying that right
My problem, I believe, is the line hot from the standard switch is that it's not conveniently connected in the dimmer box to the load wire as shown, but instead at a junction box in the ceiling.
Making this a little harder. I can get both switches to operate to separately, but only when both the second signal wire and hot wire are connected together in the standard switch box.
When the standard switch is on, trying to turn it off by the dimmer will only brighten the light slightly, not turn it off and visa versa. Same on the standard switch side. The light will only be off when both switches are in the off position.
That's where I stand right now. I'll update this post when I find out and complete this installation.
I think I am in the same situation were you able to find the solution?
Good video, however isn't the old 3-way load switch black screw (vs gold traveler screws) connected not to the "hot/line" as you have depicted in your drawing but rather to the "load" connection? Disconnecting the old line switch connection would render the old load switch powerless if the travelers were not supplying the line power.
I think he more or less reversed the procedure. In accordance with Feit Installation Guide, you should leave the original 3 way switch in the junction box were the LIVE (hot) line comes in, while the new Feit smart dimmer should go were the LOAD fixture is connected. Another discrepancy is that the installation guide doesn't cap either if the traveller wires. They are all connected. I guess he's method eliminated the need for reworking the wiring inside the junction box where the original switch (LIVE) is staying, but somehow can lead to confusion those using the method delineated by the installation guide.
Excellent video.
Awesome video, help me!!! My dimmer is connected and works perfectly but I am having trouble with the other switch. No matter how I wire the other switch, the other switch WILL NOT turn the lights on & off. Can you please help? Thanks!!!
It will turn them off, but not back on!!
Were you able to find a solution? I am having the same isue
I have the same issue .. do we have a solution ?
@@almosteasy4901 - how did you fix the problem ? I too have the same problem.
@Sree Those dummies sent me a defective unit!!! I actually had it wired correctly - I thought I was losing my mind! Just ordered another one from Amazon and wired it exactly the same way, and it worked perfectly. Then I sent back the defective one. Good luck!
Is there a video to identify which wires are the travelers, load and hot?
I am working in a location where I can use an ohm meter - so if I need to test continuity, it should be easy.
The problem I am having is that my smart switch is always powered, but if I flip my remote 3 ways switch it will turn the power on/off to the light only. The smart switch is always powered. If the remote switch is "on" the smart switch will control the light.
So... Its halfway working. It seemed very straightforward until it wasn't working the way I wanted it to...
I mean, maybe this is how its supposed to work. Smart switch always works. the light is mainly controlled by the remote switch.
I was thinking that I might need to move the smart switch to the other side of the circuit but I think I might be missing something as far as capping off the extra traveler... And now I'm not 100% sure certain which cables are my travelers since I can test one that I thought was a traveler on my far side and its always got power.
I guess to sum it up, my question is: Do I need to hook the smart switch up to the closest outlet to the breaker box? I am guessing so - but both boxes appear to have a black/hot wire that stays hot no matter what the other side is doing (fully disconnected).
After over a year of the switch partially working, I finally took the time to figure out what was wrong with my wiring. (The smart switch worked fine - except the 3-way switch on the other side worked as an on/off switch for both the smart switch and load.)
I had the Smart switch installed on the side the 3 way was supposed to be and used a volt and ohm meter to determine which were my hots, neutrals and travelers. Wasn't complicated, but still took a while since I needed to run a temporary string between the switches to help figure out/label the wires with an ohm meter.
Can you do it in a 4 way set up?
I haven't tried but this shows you how to set it up with 2 smart dimmers in the 3 way configuration: ua-cam.com/video/AkXJSvSlH94/v-deo.html
I found this extremely confusing (not your fault). I got it working now but at this time currently, setup only works if the regular 3 way is on
That is where I am at with it.
Very helpful, specially diagrams. Thank you
Per instructions they say that the regular 3 way switch should be connected to the incoming line and the dimmer should go to the fixture
what if the load wire is at the standard side ? this make me headache.
just checked manufactures webpage. the smart dimmer switch could only be installed on load side. sigh
Thank you thank you thank you! I followed your one-pole instructions last night and was successful on one light. Tonight I'll work on the 3-way dimmer and switch.
I have a Google wifi that doesn't let me shut-off the 5ghz. Trying a protocol using two phones and a hotspot to trick the dimmers onto the Google wifi (I got it to work eventually with the AP setting and the slow blink setting on the dimmer)
Thank you!
Thank you
Welcome, thanks for watching.
what about 4-way switch
My line is in one box and load is in other box and cannot get this to work. Ugh!
I bought an ordinary smart switch thinking it would replace one of my two switches controlling the overhead kitchen lights. I installed it and it works great except that the conventional switch turns off both the lights, and the smart switch. Not being an electrician, I did not foresee this. If I think positive and use some imagination, this setup actually has some advantages though I would prefer the conventional switch just turned off the lights. Anyway, I watched the video but this is all too complicated for me to figure it out and I think I'll just leave well enough alone.
I believe you just need to switch the smart switch to where the conventional switch is amd vice versa
I tried this. It doesn't work. The regular switch doesn't work. Only the dimmer switch works.
I am having the same issue
Were you able to find a solution? I have the same issue and my regular switch does not work
Yes, the regular switch needs to be connected to the incoming power. The smart switch needs to be connected to the fixture. The smart switch needs to be programmed to the wifi. There is a couple of seconds delay when switching off the power from regular switch.
@@pauljimenez1165 i did everything you described. The dimmer works fine and its connected to my wifi. However the regular switch does not work. It does not control the light. I am not able to find the reason.
I was having the same issue. I double-checked my wiring. Connected the smart dimmer then connected the regular 3-way switch.
Hey that’s where I got mine .lol
Well you didn’t explain how to do it if I wanted the switch in the secondary box instead of the primary box. Now I’m lost and confused.
Check the instructions that came with the dimmers, i'm going to be doing it that way too.
That box is way overfilled...