$20 Electric Exhaust Cutout Controller - Wireless
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 гру 2022
- This video goes over how to convert your existing electric exhaust cutout switch to a wireless one without paying over $100 for a wireless controller.
Wireless Controller (Amazon, more expensive): amzn.to/3uyvx0G
433 Mhz Remote (No longer on Amazon): bit.ly/3h6uZw5
Wireless Controller (AliExpress, Cheaper): bit.ly/3VHf6eA
Alternative Kit With Better Remote (Amazon): amzn.to/3UKOaJk
Channel Sponsors:
Arc Terminator
www.arcterminator.com - Active EKP Cooling and Welding Solutions
Auxito
www.auxito.com/?ref=6ucm39501u (Use Code FOULNEWS for 15% off!)
Like us on Facebook:
/ foulnewsnetwork
Follow us on Twitter:
/ foulnews
Follow us on Instagram:
/ foulnews
Check out our website:
www.foulnews.com - Авто та транспорт
I have QTP on two cars and had failed gear and remote i bought the first and second i just went a different route, this company needs to check their products. Thank u for making this video
Ah that sounds terrible, especially considering how much the QTP controllers cost. Hopefully your new setup lasts a long time 👍
@@FoulNews fingers crossed 🤞 lol btw I saw ur website can u make 3D custom print work nothing too big or too complicated
Yes, it just depends on what's needed.
I like it when it did the brumbrumbrumbrum and then the littlebrum
I like it when someone accidentally jacked your swag then you re-lived the entire plot of "Austin Powers - The Spy Who Shagged Me," in order to get your swag back and unjacked.
Very cool. Will be doing this mod
Nice! It definitely beats having to reach over for a hard-wired switch!
@@FoulNews
Been meaning to put my LS400 and my TT SC300 on a cutout anyway. Occasionally one needs to be silent.
Definitely better than a hardwired switch.
@@negativeindustrial Nice, sounds like some sweet rides! I definitely prefer the cutout route. I love having the BMW nearly quiet as stock most of the time and loud when I want it loud. My MR2 is always loud and my Forester is always quiet lol. It would be nice to have it on them both as well.
@@FoulNews
Nice. My MR2 Turbo and my Celica Turbo are always on loud. GReddy exhausts on both of those.
Great video! Question for you, I think I burned out my existing controller by trying to put both of my cutouts on the same one. You know if any of these would be able to handle having two motors hooked up to
Thanks! It honestly depends on the amount of current each cutout uses. If you have the specs for the cutouts, check to see the amp draw on them. Also make sure your wiring is capable of handling the amperage as well to reduce heat as well.
The controller in this video is rated for up to 20 amps in rush current, which is plenty for the servo motor on the cutout I'm using.
@@FoulNews I bought these like 10 years ago so exact specs may be hard... Can I measure it?
I may be able to find similar ones on AliExpress though
@@MrDontask007 Yes, there's a few ways to do it.
1. With a multimeter, set it to DC current and put the positive probe to the circuit's ground and the negative probe to the ground coming off of the motor and send power to the motor. The current will be displayed on the meter. Just make sure you have a meter rated for at least 20 amps or one with a changeable fuse.
2. Use a clamp style multimeter, set it to read DC current and clamp it around the positive or negative wire from the motor (but not both at the same time) and power the motor. Then the amp draw will be shown in the meter.
3. Use a DC bench power supply with a voltage and current readout and power the motor with 12V. The amp draw should be shown on the bench supply.
@@FoulNews awesome thank you!
To expand on making the 2 motors powered by 1:
12V power from fusebox to control box
Out to 2 motors - would this be too low voltage or if the wires don't have enough amperage, not enough juice to power them? How does that work/what would the issues be?
I imagine if amperage isn't right, wires or fuses would get too hot and blow but not my strong suit
Thank you!
@@MrDontask007 No prob! The voltage is just fine at 12V, the limiting factor is the current through the wiring and controller. The battery will provide all the current and more, but if the wiring and controller aren't up to snuff, they'll burn out.
Once you know how much current each motor draws, just add that up for your total current. My guess is that it will be less than 20 amps. What you'd then do is use 12ga wire from the battery to a 20 amp fuse (or anything 5 - 10 amps higher than the comnined motor current) and then run the wire to the controller. Use the same gauge wire from the ground to the controller. Make sure the ground has good contact, or wire it to the negative post of the battery. From there you can run 12ga wires from the controller to both motors. As long ss they don't exceed the controller's rated continuous current, you shouldn't have any issues.