How to Replace Oil Filter & Cooler Housing 5th Generation Caravan
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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New Oil Filter Housing & Cooler Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/MPEO...
If the oil cooler and filter assembly has begun to leak, is clogged, or is otherwise problematic, you may find your vehicle losing oil or coolant, which could lead to engine failure. This video shows you how to install a new oil cooler and filter housing assembly in your 2011-13 Dodge Caravan.
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• Check here for more videos on the 2008-19 Dodge Grand Caravan: • Dodge Grand Caravan 20...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Dodge Grand Caravan
2009 Dodge Grand Caravan
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan
2012 Dodge Grand Caravan
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
2014 Dodge Grand Caravan
2015 Dodge Grand Caravan
2016 Dodge Grand Caravan
2017 Dodge Grand Caravan
2018 Dodge Grand Caravan
2019 Dodge Grand Caravan
2020 Dodge Grand Caravan
Tools you will need:
• Pocket Screwdriver
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ofw/1AX...
• 13mm Wrench 1aau.to/ofz/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oqp/1AX...
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oqp/1AX...
• Air Blow Gun
• Air Compressor
• Coolant Funnel Set 1aau.to/oq/1AXA...
• Coolant Pressure Tester
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/of3/1AX...
• Vacuum
• Hose Clamp Pliers 1aau.to/oY/1AXA...
• Push Pin Pliers
• E8 Inverted Torx Socket
• Ratchet 1aau.to/ou6/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/omW/1AX...
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/oc4/1AX...
• Silicone Paste
• Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper 1aau.to/oau/1AX...
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2008-2019 5th Gen: • Dodge Grand Caravan 20...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Your videos rock
Thank you for making this video, it was extremely helpful. I’ve watched a lot of videos on tutorials. No unnecessary chatting about personal things or irrelevant things. Very professional, and informative.
Great work and thank you again for the effort on making this
Great video, don’t remove the mounting brackets though just the bolts and the upper manifold will come off
Thanks. I followed this plan and completed the job in 6 hours. I used the Dorman aluminum housing. One note, you only need to remove the 2 10mm bolts
on the front brackets. Once the rear bracket is removed, the upper manifold will swing up and slide out of the 2 front brackets
What is the typical charge to have a mechanic like yourself do a jib like this?
Did you drain oil also?
I have 2017 dodge grand caravan this is the same process correct?
Good video
Where do I actually get the oil cooler from?? I need to do this too but do they really cost $400 for this part??
Anywhere cheaper it’s not gonna be brand new or reliable
My dodge dealer has them for 310
Thanks for this vid! Got the $100 Amazon all aluminum upgraded part and probably watched four times over and even paused and went step by step while doing this job on our 2012 Chrysler TnC. Up and running again after gushing coolant out of this housing and barely limping home. The kids are happily transporting 165lbs of food to Cub Scouts right this minute! :) Oh, and btw I used a 1/4" socket instead of 'inverted torx' and it worked fine for me.
Great video. I really appreciate the effort. Finished mine yesterday with only minimal 4 letter words used. As a side note... I was able to remove the upper manifold without removing the front two brackets. I simply removed the nuts on the front and removed the entire rear bracket and it slips right out. Unless I’m missing something I did not see a reason to remove these brackets. Saves a lot of headache. Especially if you have big hands.
I figured that out after struggling with one of the brackets. Maybe shop manual says to do that, but not necessary at all IMO.
@@atxfalcon8813 I just finished also. I did not loosen the brackets either. Totally unnecessary. Didn't even require any prying to get the upper back on with the brackets in place.
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Same here.
Just finished doin mine. Only took about 2 hours and was easier than I figured it would be. Runs like new and isn't leaking a drop now. It was leaking about a quart of oil every ten miles. Not now. Thks for the video
Had yours thrown the engine code for low oil pressure? Mine has and the engine has an occasional shutter.
The updated unit should of been all aluminium - putting back the same plastic unit - well its going to leak as it ages again. This accomplishes very little.
there is literally no reason to remove those brackets 3:10 to replace the oil filter housing, I did this job 3 times on 3 different caravans, never needed to remove the brackets.
great video, referred to AGAIN to refresh my memory on the right steps. actually did it in March of 2021, had to replace again in Dec 2022, used an aluminum one now, so hoping that isn't as defective as these crappy plastic ones. Two years later and this is still the best video out there for this repair. thanks!
I'm using an aluminum one as well! Hopefully it holds
This is an excellent video done by a true mechanic. Thanks
In a league of your own young man very well Illustrated and I'm impressed that you're actually doing it correctly so many of the videos out there performing the same task and none of them that I have viewed are using torque specs and then they wonder why they have to do it five times
I replaced mine with Dorman made with aluminum cheap than mopar crap. Fits fine and never worry of breaking plastic
I just did the same thing.
What is an inverted torx socket and what size do I need
Thank you for the video. In doing mine, I found out you don't have to remove the front brackets - just the rear bracket - then pull the intake manifold toward the rear as you lift and the front screws will slide out. Just remove the two front nuts.
+wubanchi Ethiopia Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
nn2022 so on the front brackets you say to not remove them, but mention removing 2 front nuts. You mean the nut holding the cooler line to the stud and which other nut on the front?
@@st0n3r78 no for future diyers. The two front nuts on the studs for the intake plenum brackets are what hold the plenum at the front. They are beneath the upper radiator hose. If you take of everything stated in the video but instead of removing the entire front two brackets, you remove the front two 10mm nuts instead, you will be able to lift the plenum up and back and slide the two studs out of the holes on the brackets.
ALSO *pay attention to the two "petetongs" the tech mentions on the throttle body attachment to the air box intake tube. The rubber grommets that the petetongs push into may stay on the actual petetongs when you initially remove the black plastic piece that attaches to the throttle body.
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE TO ANYONE WHO ISN’T MECHANICALLY INCLINED BUT IS LOOKING TO TAKE THIS ON- You can get away without taking off the entire bracket but MAKE SURE you put the studs through the brackets when installing it. I didn’t (a major mistake on my end) and it broke the lower manifold since it wasn’t lined up right. Just had to order a 150 part off a website to fix it. Still about 400 dollars under what a mechanic would’ve cost but it was a stupid rookie mistake and it was costly.
great instructions thank you. i did on my 2012 GC couple of notes from my findings:
front brackets and wiring harness did NOT need to come off and on mine that passenger side stud bolt is damn near impossible.
change plugs if you have intake off
drain oil before you start repairs, will save you a mess
don’t need to drain coolant unless you need to get the top radiator hose outta the way
+roytube10 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I thought the coolant had to be drained because it might have oil in it.
Thanks for the video. Just did this today and your step-by-step is great. In particular, appreciate that you did the re-assembly part (with the graphics on the order). Lots of videos will just say to do it backwards from pulling it apart but it was very helpful to have the whole process.
Anytime I’m scraping with a razor blade in a situation like that are usually hold the blade in one hand and the vacuum and the other so it sucks up any debris immediately
Dude, I was thinking the same thing!
Thanks for the detailed instructions especially the torque specs for all bolts and socket sizes used throughout. As others have said the front brackets do not need to be removed. Just to two front bracket upper/top bolts and the upper intake bolt stems will slide right out. The first time I had this replaced not at a dealership but one of my local reputable repair places I was charged around $900. They used a Mopar OEM filter housing which itself was $414 plus around $300 labor plus another $60 for the intake gasket set.
Awesome video! What size inverted torx socket did you use on the oil cooler?
E8
what size was the inverted torque socket?
Did you ever figure that out I'm about start mine on my wife's van I know invert sockets are not organized so I'm worried I'm not gonna be able to find it
Thank you so much for showing me how to install this part , I'm poor and you saved me money
You don't need to remove any of the front brackets , Just did the work and all you do is remove rear bracket and slide bolts into the front holes.
Replace plastic with another plastic? No thanks.
Thank you! I LITERALLY could not have done this repair without the video! I recommend anyone trying this for themselves start with those two front brackets -- they will be by far the hardest parts to get out and, if you have the patience to do those, you'll be able to do the rest easily... as long as you follow this video.
Raising the front end, even on jack stands will make those two/bolts studs more accessible from the bottom than from the top. Or you may want to removed the radiator fan (more time consuming, but doable and frees up space (I didn't)).
I do believe I'm going to go like some of your other videos, simply because I can't give this one more than a single 'like'.
as others have commented you don't even need to remove them or even loosen them. It wasn't a big deal you just place the studs through the holes first then line everything up. Easy.
Thanks! Used this the whole way. The under-29-minute video made me confident I could get it done quick. I was wrong, but I did get it done, lol.
Awesome video. I need the oil filter housing assembly for a 2015 dodge caravan. Do you have this part on your website? Please send a link if you do have one in stock. Thanks!
10:24 How did you detect a leak with that little oil leaking?!?! My friend's Jeep has a cascade of oil on the transmission and T-case!
It's the way that those 3.6 Pentastar engines are designed. They look like it's a tranny leak when in fact it's the Oil from that housing. It is an unusually tight design that can be an all day project to fix on a normally 3 hr book job from a Mechanic.
I paid $800 including parts and labour to replace oil cooler for 2018 Grand Caravan, was I overcharged?
Absolutely beautiful! Best teaching video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Well Done! SUBSCRIBED!!!
Help!
My mechanic is trying to charge me $3,000 to replace oil cooler, upper and lower intake (cracked); valve cover gaskets (?really) and spark plugs on a 2014 grand caravan SXT with 106,000miles.
I think I’m being taken to the cleaners on the price. Labor $900 and parts over $2,000!
They were the last ones to remove the intake to replace a spark plug 4 years ago, and now they are saying it is cracked and I need new intakes.
Can anyone on here offer me any negotiating advice?
Whoever at Dodge designed those fuel injector harness connectors, I hope they find Jesus, otherwise they face an eternity in you-know-where connecting and disconnecting fuel injectors.
I wish I had seen this video, and some others like it, before I purchased my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan. Considering how difficult routine maintenance is on this vehicle, I am highly skeptical that dealership service {such as replacement of spark plugs} is actually done when it is billed to customers. It just astonishes me that the {plastic} intake manifold must be removed, and myriad wires, crappy plastic connectors, and hoses must be removed, in order to change spark plugs. The plugs can be easily fouled due a number of valvetrain and electronic control issues. It is also evident that no consideration was made by FCA/Chrysler Corporation engineers to provide for routine maintenance and ease of service. Additionally, the Pentastar 3.6 V-6 has a number of highly publicized flaws {valve rockers being a major example}, and that Chrysler will not stand behind its defective products. Now that FCA has merged with other dubious manufacturers as Stellantis, build quality is likely to become even worse.
+Charles Ware Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
My needing to do this very job last year on my '14, not to mention paying big $ to buy the replacement housing and gaskets, has insured I will never ever buy another vehicle from this crap company again.
I am being told that doing this correctly requires a oil change and radiator flush recommendation which adds more money
The seasoned mechanic I spoke with told me neither coolant or oil absolutely needs to be changed when doing this work. However both should be drained, specifically the coolant. So first the coolant... lifetime coolants AREN'T lifetime anything. Modern aluminum safe coolants loose their proper ph beginning at about 4-6 years, so replace that. Then the oil. Why not do a fresh oil change since you're getting a new filter mounted within the part itself. Then load up with nice synthetic 5W20. Good to go for most people for up to a full year!
Great demonstration procedure, @ 15.21 in your video I noticed the oil temp. sensor was not reconnected, did you had to go back to redo it?
Much appreciate how you stress not to let anything drop into the engine. That could be game over😮
This particular car seems to have no leaks. I saw no oil and coolant collected in valley between the banks of the V6. I only removed the rear bracket, not the front two. Upper intake simply slides back and out. The air filter to throttle body connecting assembly...I could not get the rear holes snap onto the two studs, even with grease. The red injector connector release tabs can break if not pre-lubed. The intake ports must be covered until the lower intake is ready to be installed. It is also vital to replace the oil cooler return hose that attaches to the filter adapter while doing the adapter replacement. This will avoid the inevitable replacement needed a few years later.
Trq DIY Videos are the best. They have saved me thousands of dollars. I replaced my brakes watching the video. Thanks Guys
Great video and very well edited. I loved it. Thanks a lot. One thing that might be a mute point after 1 year of this video being uploaded but you forgot to plug the two connectors for the oil filter housing @ 15:22.
Thanks for the video helped a lot I would just like to add that you do not have to take the front brackets loose just take off the two nuts.
Just take off the bracket in the back
Great video! This is the most detailed video i could find covering the lower intake manifold gasket replacement. Thanks for the thorough video, I am more confident to tackle this job!
+Stevensly Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I just did mine but didn’t drain the coolant. Am I in trouble ? What should I do ?
You dont need to remove those 2 nasty front brakets, I did it without touching them.
Great video. Followed along. After fighting with the front bracket removal, I finally realized you don't actually have to remove them. There is enough clearance to easily get the upper intake bracket studs to engage the front brackets. Just wanted to pass along.
If it’s not cracked just replace the “o” rings and gaskets.
Fantastic job explaining everything!
Great video, just ordered the part last night. Wished the aluminum Dorman version went back to the 11-13 models but oh well. I highly recommend in your pinned comment to list the tools you used. I had to rewatch many times to catch what you were using. Ive already had to replace my trans cooler aka condenser and so glad i did compared to dealer quoted price. Ill be doing this on my own in a few weeks, outside of coolant and tools, do you recommend anything else on standby?
Do you need to drain the coolant to change the oil filter housing?
16:03 Great video! Curious, did you have any rotation before reaching the torque value while using the torque wrench? That battery driver looked like it made the fasteners fairly tight.
You just have to remove the back bracket not any of the front brackets
Thanks took about 4 hrs...great video
Thank you so much! I am so tired of half-done videos where no torque specs or tightening order is provided.
Second time doing this. Torqued the filter cap to tight both times and cracked the housing. Bought an aluminum unit and will be extremely diligent with torque . Thank you sooooo much.
Do you have to replace the oil once you do this process?
Dude, you're great. Probably this video will save me $800+
Hi. Job done, thanks for the video. **BUT** I forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose leading to the brake booster. Van ran well for a few minutes, then started to surge. Had a closer look and spotted the disconnected hose. Van running very well now, but I have a P2173 code (Throttle Actuator Control System - High Airflow Detected). Is this likely related to the hose being off temporarily? Thanks .
Dont need to drain the coolant, you can do it without that
Why did everyone change their oil coolers?
Nice to see that even the experts have trouble with those hose clamps!
I got oil leak and got aluminum housing is it necessary to change coolant if its still orange ?
+@highlifegoodlife5400 It is not necessary to change the coolant.
Best video on this subject. Excellent camera work and good graphics for torque sequence. Saved the day. Keep up the good work
The best video about replace cooler. For me I've also removed fan to have more space for my hands. Very good job!
Why does the coolant need drained?
Excellent video, walks you step-by-step, very helpful.
Did you leave the car sitting for a day or two because when you pulled of the housing no oil or coolant came out
+Elver Galarga Thanks for watching! The car likely sat for a bit which gave those fluids time to settle!
I plan to do it myself. Does anyone know why we need to do a pressure test on the cooling system? Is it a mandatory step after the oil house changing?
Would make sense to change those plugs while you have it all apart.
+Kevin Haskins Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
That’s my plan!!
great video !! question : after I replaced the oil housing i dont have enough heat , and when i drive over 60 mph , temperature gauge goes up ...
Im kind scared to do this myself. Do you think its easy for diy? I chnaged my tipm module alone and did fine. Just not sure about this.
Just had one replaced and two months later you can see oil on the the bottom were ot sits!
What the hell s0 ordered a new one to rep,scene myself! So pissed about spending 2000 on this and it was already messses up,
Thank you. I had a question of the best method (quickest to the oil cooler, without damaging or unnecessary teardown) and I only watched a few minutes but your video perfectly answered how to pull the fuel rail and best practice on removing the oil cooler component.
You saved me 30 minutes, and I felt it justified spending 2 minutes to let you know.
+1985ThePedro Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
what a horrible design
My next project is the Transmission fluid pressure sensor/ switch G circuit PO83B. Do you have a video on that or could you let me know where it is and how to change it? Thanks
I changed mine an I still have smoke coming from that area yes I changed it correct say perfectly any ideas why it’s still smoking
I am struggling so much to get the air intake back into place. Do the grommets rest on the pylons or do the pylons actually insert into something?
Is it true this breaks every year? Just replaced mine on a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan😬
The one I bought is completely made out of metal. Came with the screws and the sensors.
Bonjour, merci pour vos vidéos, elle sont très intéressantes?? À quel endroit je peux savoir ou obtenir le torque de chacune des boulons nous avons à serrer sur nos véhicules??
Merci à pour votre attention.
EVERYTHING you need to reach is deep within another structure, *just* out of reach.
My mom took her 2013 to a instant oil change and 2 days later I noticed oil under it. I looked and oil was standing on the engine it's pouring about 2 quarts every 3 days out. It's in my garage and I'm gonna change the housing Tomorrow. Lucky me. Lol
Thank you for this video. I truly believe this particular part was engineered to ensure a costly dealer repair.
I am at the step of fastening the upper intake manifold: Do you get the bolts all the way down to flush with the plastic before torquing? You fasten down with impact gun and then torque it. I ratcheted down to flush before torquing. HOWEVER, my torque wrench did not register the proper torque. I obviously torqued down too much so I loosened all bolts and started over. I am very skiddish to stripping the bolts and not doing this correctly. Please give me some feedback. I need more detail on how the bolts feel while fastening them in. I dont know what im doing wrong. It doesnt feel right.
Why do you not have the intake holes covered or plugged when you are cleaning with the razor. You could knock debris into the.
This video is very helpful because i have to do the same thing to my van and you and this video was perfect thank you
Hello. Thanks for the video. I broke connector under the oil filter housing. Could you please help me? I do not know what it called and how can I find it. Thanks.
awesome video , i would like to try on my but it seems difficult to me , do you know how much it cost this repair?
What tightening torque? Filter and collector, please let me know.
Great step by step video.
There are two harness clips on the power plenum which was not shown in this video. They need to be detached.
The two front brackets are definitely the most difficult part of this job.
I recommend detaching the upper rad hose to get better access.
I used a flex head spark plug ratchet and a deep socket to remove the passenger side lower bolt.
Also the rear bracket power bolt is very easy to lose. I still cant find mine which fell into the lower control arm never to be seen again.
Finally budget about an hour to clean the valley under the oil cooler ensuring the intake cavities are blocked with clean paper towel or rags. It was an absolute mess.
PLASTIC? never. Mine is being replaced with an aluminum part
Total newbie here with a question - Do we need to drain the oil from the engine before this repair?
Really appreciate the video, on my 2015 GC i did not have to remove the front brackets or their bottom bolts/ nuts
I've got my new cooler hooked up but I cannot get the 'oil tube' (tube under filter housing) pushedcall the way down. I see a lip in the port the tube supposed to sit on but I cannot physically push it down all the way. Do I tighten the bolts to pull this down?
Grate step by step direction ..!!! Thank you to take time and do all that .
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video! Thank you for the help! I was able to bypass having to take off the front brackets.
Great video. Anyone can do this. Watch this video, buy all of the stuff you don’t have, and take your time.
What would cause the leaking would it be the gaskets being bad or can the whole housing fail