Best assembly vid I've seen, and I've watched a lot. Nobody else presents the idea of going step-wise through the bolts from front to back, manipulating the seam as you go. Nobody else uses a clamp at one end to hold it loosely in place, nobody else emphasizes gluing the front and back heavily because they're far from the bolts, and nobody puts the screw in the back. This vid gave me the confidence to do the job...even if I fail badly.
Thank you for the feedback! Very much appreciated. I'm happy to know it's helpful to someone, that was my intent when making this video. I am pretty fussy with my work and strive for a quality job. With that in mind I tried to explain and emphasize what was most important and was (not) explained to me. Most of my work is self taught so it really is nice hearing that it's helping others! Thanks again!
@@MaineDIYGuy Well I felt good about it until I got under the counter and realized one of the router holes was goofed so you couldn't use it!! Even with the screw in the back it somehow dried just off enough so I'll notice and hate it forever, but nobody else will 😁. Can't imagine how much worse it would've been without the screw!!
@davidfox4733 oh man! That would irritate me too! In the future should you do it again, you can use a wet cloth and squeeze small amounts of water onto the glue as you go, this will allow you a little more time before it sets up and cannot be manipulated any longer. I totally understand what you mean though. Often times there are things I do I'm not 100% happy with but others can't even see what I refer to. It's just my OCD and constantly striving for perfection 🤷♂️🤦
Thank you. I was confused by my written instructions on the clamp. Seeing it is an aha moment. When every dollar counts instructional videos are a blessing.
Thanks for this video. Super helpful! I just did mine yesterday and it turned out pretty good. One thing I would say is that a second set of hands to manipulate the counter while it is being tightened would be helpful. A lot less jumping up and down trying to get everything aligned, and then going back under to tighten the bolts. But happy with the result and empowering to have done it myself.
Yes a 2nd set of hands is definitely helpful. When I made this tutorial I was the only guy working in the shop. My boss at the time was to cheap to hire a 2nd person 🙄 😅🤷♂️
We hit laminate directly with a hammer all the time, especially for preformed miters and to get debris under the laminate to knock down, you just need to make sure you hit directly with the face of the hammer and not on the side.
@ 3:40 you got a TILT :) I'm watching this because today I dry fitted mine and realized I forgot most of what I watched here and this was one of them I watched. So, my instincts were right about assembling them with the laminate side up, because if it was down you wouldn't be able to see if or where there was any creases or needs for adjustments. Only thing is I was wondering how strong it will be after I do it with glue because one section is 6' and the other is 4' 4". I'm guessing it's still done this way but take care to set it in place, avoid letting it sag at the joint. Another thing worth mentioning is that it appeared to have the miter cut very badly as there was big gaps but once the pressure of the miter bolts were applied the gaps closed up, so don't freak out. I did, and checked the joints on each side with a level, there was no gap, which I think was coming from the backsplash area and the pressure of the bolts pushed them into place.
You rock! Thanks for the clear, calm instructions. Today was Day 1 on base cabinets, first time setting one, cutting and installing the laminate. Moving on next to the miter seam. Sure appreciate you making this video!
Just curious when one buys a postform laminate top from one of the big box stores are the miter cuts usually pretty accurately cut? In other words, is the manufacturing process pretty consistent so the person installing can make it work. I have played around with the one I just purchased and shimmed it to get it level as I wanted to "dry fit it before gluing and installing the clamps and the gap at the miter joint seems pretty big (about 1/8 of an inch or a little more). Is that normal before tightening them up? Just wondered how this is going to look or if there any tips in making this as good as possible? Thanks much.
Good vid! Question for ya.. I have the exact layout of this L shap counter top. We'd like to make the counter 16" longer from the mitre joint to the end of the counter. Is there any way to break down a mitre joint, without damaging everything, in order for me to add a longer section? I really dont want to have to scrap the whole counter top, its only a few yrs old. Thank you
I just installed one of these the other day. The slots under for the nut and bolts were way off. Made things a little more challenging. Then the two did not level together. Had to wack it several times with a piece of wood and hammer. Finally got it somewhat flush. Why doesn't home Depot sell pre-made L shape counter tops. Would make a lot better c top. I hate having seems where water can penetrate
Gonna be honest...ive watched your vid about 5 times, before i felt confident enough to tackle doing the mitre myself. Well last night i finally did it, and man do you make things look easy! Lol It did not turn out well at all... I fought it the whole time, by the time i was done, the glue was drying up and i have a small lip all the way through. Guess i wont be adding this to a list of things i know how to do! Lol Cheers
+Wil Morris Of course, the trouble being most of the time when the hammer is necessary, its just a small little spot I am trying to pound down/flatten out. Therefore a block is no use. As you can see in this video you can give it a fairly decent blow. I would suggest practicing on some remnants until you've accustomed yourself to how much you can push it.
If the only or best way to do this is before installing, and there's warrantee involved, the manufacture should really be doing this before sending it out. It's often incredibly awkward to do this on site or down right impossible. With the exception of an 8' x 8' L-shape that's not easily transported this should be done by the manufacture. Especially since many cabinet installers are alone on site making this even harder to do solo in a tight spot then move around before glue is dry
MistrMopar thanks for the response, are you a Ctop manufacture? I've been a cabinet installer for 4 years, don't see many Laminate Ctops anymore (99% granite/quarts), but 100% of the post forms requiring a mitre come unassembled unfortunately. Not a fan of post form personally, squared edge looks beefier and a bit less dated imo anyway and doesn't need to come mitred
I am not a fabricator anymore, (I am MistrMopar too) I was a fabricator and we would assemble the miters if the homeowner or contractor wanted it assembled. Around here stone is the biggest seller but there is still a fair amount of people who buy laminate as its a fraction of the price of stone.
assembly before delivery or manufacturer assembled miter = broken miter. thats why theyre not sold that way. too many would be broken during transport.
Finally, someone showing how to line up and tighten the actual mitered corners! Thx
+Philip Sowers Most welcome!
I especially loved when he did a final adjustment by smacking the countertop right on the laminate with a hammer!
Works great. It's called know your limits.
Best assembly vid I've seen, and I've watched a lot. Nobody else presents the idea of going step-wise through the bolts from front to back, manipulating the seam as you go. Nobody else uses a clamp at one end to hold it loosely in place, nobody else emphasizes gluing the front and back heavily because they're far from the bolts, and nobody puts the screw in the back. This vid gave me the confidence to do the job...even if I fail badly.
Thank you for the feedback! Very much appreciated. I'm happy to know it's helpful to someone, that was my intent when making this video. I am pretty fussy with my work and strive for a quality job. With that in mind I tried to explain and emphasize what was most important and was (not) explained to me. Most of my work is self taught so it really is nice hearing that it's helping others! Thanks again!
You can absolutely do it and get a quality job. I'm sure of it!
@@MaineDIYGuy Well I felt good about it until I got under the counter and realized one of the router holes was goofed so you couldn't use it!! Even with the screw in the back it somehow dried just off enough so I'll notice and hate it forever, but nobody else will 😁. Can't imagine how much worse it would've been without the screw!!
@davidfox4733 oh man! That would irritate me too! In the future should you do it again, you can use a wet cloth and squeeze small amounts of water onto the glue as you go, this will allow you a little more time before it sets up and cannot be manipulated any longer. I totally understand what you mean though. Often times there are things I do I'm not 100% happy with but others can't even see what I refer to. It's just my OCD and constantly striving for perfection 🤷♂️🤦
I love it when people who are watching a video on how to do something are somehow also self proclaimed experts lol
Haha yup!
Thank you. I was confused by my written instructions on the clamp. Seeing it is an aha moment. When every dollar counts instructional videos are a blessing.
Thanks for this video. Super helpful! I just did mine yesterday and it turned out pretty good. One thing I would say is that a second set of hands to manipulate the counter while it is being tightened would be helpful. A lot less jumping up and down trying to get everything aligned, and then going back under to tighten the bolts. But happy with the result and empowering to have done it myself.
Yes a 2nd set of hands is definitely helpful. When I made this tutorial I was the only guy working in the shop. My boss at the time was to cheap to hire a 2nd person 🙄 😅🤷♂️
Great tutorial. At the end when tapping top with hammer, I would recommend a block of wood between hammer and counter or just use a rubber mallet.
This guy was going real good until the end. NEVER hit formica directly with a hammer. Use a piece of wood on the mica.......
Never caused me a single problem, know your limits by practicing on scrap.
We hit laminate directly with a hammer all the time, especially for preformed miters and to get debris under the laminate to knock down, you just need to make sure you hit directly with the face of the hammer and not on the side.
@ 3:40 you got a TILT :) I'm watching this because today I dry fitted mine and realized I forgot most of what I watched here and this was one of them I watched. So, my instincts were right about assembling them with the laminate side up, because if it was down you wouldn't be able to see if or where there was any creases or needs for adjustments. Only thing is I was wondering how strong it will be after I do it with glue because one section is 6' and the other is 4' 4". I'm guessing it's still done this way but take care to set it in place, avoid letting it sag at the joint.
Another thing worth mentioning is that it appeared to have the miter cut very badly as there was big gaps but once the pressure of the miter bolts were applied the gaps closed up, so don't freak out. I did, and checked the joints on each side with a level, there was no gap, which I think was coming from the backsplash area and the pressure of the bolts pushed them into place.
You rock! Thanks for the clear, calm instructions. Today was Day 1 on base cabinets, first time setting one, cutting and installing the laminate. Moving on next to the miter seam. Sure appreciate you making this video!
Victoria Simms thank you for the comment! my pleasure!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Just curious when one buys a postform laminate top from one of the big box stores are the miter cuts usually pretty accurately cut? In other words, is the manufacturing process pretty consistent so the person installing can make it work. I have played around with the one I just purchased and shimmed it to get it level as I wanted to "dry fit it before gluing and installing the clamps and the gap at the miter joint seems pretty big (about 1/8 of an inch or a little more). Is that normal before tightening them up? Just wondered how this is going to look or if there any tips in making this as good as possible? Thanks much.
Tanks.... very much for this video
Good vid!
Question for ya..
I have the exact layout of this L shap counter top. We'd like to make the counter 16" longer from the mitre joint to the end of the counter. Is there any way to break down a mitre joint, without damaging everything, in order for me to add a longer section? I really dont want to have to scrap the whole counter top, its only a few yrs old.
Thank you
very good video.....ty
Can this same method be used if you want to put a seam at the sink instead of at the end of the counter top? Id LOVE a video of that process!
It can but in postform a seam in the sink is generally a big NO NO. Moisture gets in the seam and your counter is ruined.
I just installed one of these the other day. The slots under for the nut and bolts were way off. Made things a little more challenging. Then the two did not level together. Had to wack it several times with a piece of wood and hammer. Finally got it somewhat flush.
Why doesn't home Depot sell pre-made L shape counter tops. Would make a lot better c top. I hate having seems where water can penetrate
Hi, great video! Did you cut your own miter joints or were they bought that way? Lined up real nice!
Thanks! cut my own. The shop was setup with 2 different saws to do so.
Excellent!
Gonna be honest...ive watched your vid about 5 times, before i felt confident enough to tackle doing the mitre myself. Well last night i finally did it, and man do you make things look easy!
Lol
It did not turn out well at all...
I fought it the whole time, by the time i was done, the glue was drying up and i have a small lip all the way through.
Guess i wont be adding this to a list of things i know how to do!
Lol
Cheers
that hammer really makes me nervous. Is there another way? Maybe a wider block to distribute the impact?
+Wil Morris Of course, the trouble being most of the time when the hammer is necessary, its just a small little spot I am trying to pound down/flatten out. Therefore a block is no use. As you can see in this video you can give it a fairly decent blow. I would suggest practicing on some remnants until you've accustomed yourself to how much you can push it.
No phone call all day until recording!
exactly LOLOLOL
Everything good except hitting the laminate with a steel hammer! Use a block of wood or use a rubber mallet.
Why not assemble while on the counter? Easier to move in one piece plus u get exact fit when applying glue
Because our customers dont want to deal with it and we do not install. Never had any issues getting exact fit just like this.
good video, but for gods sake man, use a mallet! NEVER put a hammer to a countertop of any kind.
Works for me, to each their own. I have never had any issues ever. Know your limits by practicing on scrap.
Hi eu job com marble. Em 45 grau
If the only or best way to do this is before installing, and there's warrantee involved, the manufacture should really be doing this before sending it out. It's often incredibly awkward to do this on site or down right impossible. With the exception of an 8' x 8' L-shape that's not easily transported this should be done by the manufacture. Especially since many cabinet installers are alone on site making this even harder to do solo in a tight spot then move around before glue is dry
Kermit we do assemble before delivering unless asked not to by the contractor
MistrMopar thanks for the response, are you a Ctop manufacture? I've been a cabinet installer for 4 years, don't see many Laminate Ctops anymore (99% granite/quarts), but 100% of the post forms requiring a mitre come unassembled unfortunately. Not a fan of post form personally, squared edge looks beefier and a bit less dated imo anyway and doesn't need to come mitred
I am not a fabricator anymore, (I am MistrMopar too) I was a fabricator and we would assemble the miters if the homeowner or contractor wanted it assembled. Around here stone is the biggest seller but there is still a fair amount of people who buy laminate as its a fraction of the price of stone.
assembly before delivery or manufacturer assembled miter = broken miter. thats why theyre not sold that way. too many would be broken during transport.