THIS is what a tutorial should look like. Clear, concise, terminology that makes sense; hell yeah. I've watched thousands of how-to videos over the years; it's stuff like this that keeps UA-cam from becoming a wasteland of bad advice. Thanks!
I really liked the format of this one. Narrating the process, remembering the little details. The craftsman has that same "we hope you'll stay with us at Motel 6, and we'll leave the light on for you" vibe in his voice, warm and calm. I want to cut a custom counter top in my laundry room so I'm watching a few vids and this one has been my favorite.
So useful to watch somebody who really knows what they are doing tell you exactly how to do something with just the right amount of detail with zero excess verbiage. Masterful workmanship and masterful communication.
Thank you for this video! I have a workbench in my shop and have all but destroyed the painted top of it so I'm covering it with sheet laminate. What I love about this video is that it shows installation against a wall, like most counters are. All the others I've viewed so far are either demos of perfectly square free standing tops or islands, so there is no mention of wall variances. This will be a huge help once I get around to actually installing the laminate.
Thanks for the tip on a new scoring tool having the tendency to walk. I'm doing my own counter top install and I'm the point of laying the laminate and that tip could prove to be very helpful so as not to screw up the laminate with it walking.
Mannn I wish I could buy some 2" laminate strips for my counters, but most places will only sell full sheets for $160+ or half sheets for about $20 less than a full. Want anything less? Promptly directed to 3/4" melamine edge banding. Sourcing problems aside, Thank YOU for making the installation methods accessible and easy to understand!
Thank you! I usually cut my self-edge strips from the full sheets when I am cutting pieces for the job. They are not available as a stand-alone product. An option that may work for you is to use hardwood strips. I have done countertops with oak or maple edging. Here is a link to a video where I used teak: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html
I have some cabinets in my shop that I need to do laminate tops on, and your video did a great job of giving detailed advice on how to complete the job
Thanks for the tips, wish I'd watched this one before doing my kitchen, got some "hooks" that hooked clothes and snapped off. Just did my RV the way you showed and it came out great.
Sorry to hear about the hooks. Happy to hear about the RV. I'm guessing the pieces that snapped off were at the corners of the self-edge. I have done self-edge replacement. Usually, because a corner snapped off. The best way I have found is to use the laminate slitter to cut the new piece. It provides a clean edge that needs minimal filing. That is, of course, if you have more material. Thanks for watching. I'm glad the RV came out great.
This was definitely informative, but it was his theatrically, stimulating, in your face personality that kept me fully engaged and momentary falling over in laughter from his quick wit jokes 😂🤣; "And now I'd like to introduce you to an old friend of mine, The Makita Offset Router" Love it! Hahahaha!!
I struggled with self edge end-cuts for so dang long, just couldnt get it right. I almost sold my van with all the tools... But then.... bam! I got me some 1984 ceramic tile nippers and filed the stops off. Life is pretty OK now. Thank you.
Yes. Isn't it amazing how one little idea can be so enlightening that your life changes as a result of your new outlook. I'm glad I was able to help you out of such a crises of vocation. Thank you. btw, If you know a better method, I'm listening.
Hi Doug, sorry I took so long to reply. I was working when the notification came in, and when I got home, I couldn't find it anywhere. Anyway, I found it in the spam folder. Your first comment cracked me up. It sounded like one of my brothers bustin' my chops. I have tried a few different methods of nipping laminate, like various types of clippers and the router. The ceramic tile nippers with the stops filed off are the best for me. The double beveled cutters don't get quite close enough, and the farrier's nippers are too heavy and bulky. I am often asked how I like a particular tool, and when I think back to how long I've actually been using it (most of them over 30 years), I usually conclude that, "That's a pretty good instrument." My metal miter box was old when it was handed down to me, and I still use it. Thank you for the chat, it was fun.
@@elbowshots I hear you bro. I was busting your chops because I just got a good chuckle from how you explain in great detail what you used and where they came from and how long you had them LOL I've actually got a pair of mild steel handmade snips that are about 11 in Long and they have curved Jaws very close tolerance almost like a pair of scissors. The left side jaw is the lower thinner cutting edge. And that's my primary go-to because I also use it for cutting oversized tops for vanities some backsplash and anytime I just don't know where my carbide tip cutter is or I don't feel like listening to my mini router and in a lot of cases the less mess the better when it comes to the router. Good luck man nice video try not to give all the secrets away though so many people out here in the west coast think they know what they're doing and it used to be money in my pocket to go and fix their crap but nowadays people don't have money to pay twice. Peace
Terrific job explaining the project in great detail. This will be very helpful when I tackle our cottage countertops this summer. Thank you for sharing your expertise !
You have the best laminate tutorials on youtube! Very helpful. I see you make all of your cuts prior to using the router very precise. Particularly on the edges with the laminate slitter. If I don't want to buy a slitter (they are a little pricey, and I'm just doing a 1 time kitchen DIY project), could I just make 'rough' cuts with shears and/or circular saw and then trim the edges up with a router?
Thank you! I appreciate the comment. Without a laminate slitter, I usually use a straight-edge and scoring tool to cut self-edge. I cut it about 1/8" oversized. To install, align the bottom with the sub-top, then trim the top flush and file it. Thanks again.
@@elbowshots Great, thanks! I guess also what I am asking is: Could I leave it 1-2 inches oversized and then just trim with router (assuming I have plenty of laminate sheet)? Is there some downside to doing it that way that I am not seeing?
I have always used half-inch overhang. My router bit is half-inch. So after fitting to the wall, I have less than that. With an overhang of more than the diameter of the bit, it creates more drag, which takes a little longer to trim. Also, the laminate can curl downward at the outside edge. This can cause it to dip below the cutters on that side of the router bit. You can have 1-2 inches of overhang. It's just faster and easier for me to work with a half-inch. Thank you!
I want to install new laminate over an existing previously used plywood substrate. I removed the old laminate, it was chipped, cracked, warped and bubbling up, etc. I scrapped and sanded all of the old contact cement off so the substrate is clean free of old glue and smooth. Can I now apply the adhesive to this existing plywood substrate follow the procedures in your videos? Great instructional videos and I have looked at a lot of them. Thank you.
Based on your description of the condition of the substrate, I would say yes, you are ready to install new laminate. Sometimes, removing laminate from plywood pulls up large splinters from the face. You are fortunate to have a smooth surface. Thank you!
I do not have any footage of doing a curved outside laminate corner. I can recommend you make sure the edge is square to the countertop so it will track properly as it goes around. I usually use a heat gun to soften the laminate to prevent cracking. I also recommend a radius about the size of the top of a 5-gallon bucket. I have a video of a rounded teak edge: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html Thank you!
Thank you! I have installed laminate on walls in tubs and showers, as well as for wainscot and full-height, floor to ceiling panels. It has been a while since I've done any of those. I have not used FRP adhesive, but it seems like a good product to use for this application. I have seen panels installed with acrylic tile adhesive. Laminate has a compressed paper backing which absorbs the moisture in acrylic adhesive and causes buckling of the panel.
Awesome video very helpful. How do you handle the front edge if the corners are cut at a 45? Outside corner not inside if that makes sense? Is there a certain order you glue the pieces?
Sure, that makes sense. I have installed those corners in different sequences. It doesn't seem to make much difference. If it is a very short run, like less than two inches, I have put those on first. Usually, I tend to stick with the sequence of working from back to front. So, that little corner piece would be second. As long as the joints are filed smooth, there shouldn't be an issue. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful and confidence building. I'm about to replace our Formica pre-form countertops with laminate. It's one of the last steps in a (very successful) renovation plan of our home that has had me learn so many skills. I've moved our bathroom from one side on the house to the other (had to divert our plumbing stack), taken out walls, put in windows, everything from shingling, drywall, ceramic tile, laminate flooring, plumbing, lots of electrical, etc. But I have never done laminate counter tops. I'm not a trades person by profession ( I'm an electronics engineer working as a computer guy for a health region) but along the way I've had the opportunity (or have been faced with the necessity) of having to do a lot of different things. I would also rather learn how to do something than pay someone else to do it. This stems from a combination of pride ( I think I'm smart enough to figure most things out) and frugality (can't afford much so better figure it out). But I have never had any experience with glue-down laminate counters except seeing it done once when I was probably 6 or 7 years old in the house I grew up in. Again, thank-you, you are a true craftsman and an excellent instructor. \
Thank you for your kind words. I love your adventurous spirit, and your willingness to expand your knowledge base by trying new things. Even if we are not exactly sure how to move forward, the answers will come to us if we seek them. I wish you continued success in your ongoing project.
Yes, I have used these blades. We called them reverse tooth blades. They cut on the downstroke. They are good for cutting laminate that has already been adhered to a substrate. Using a standard blade that cuts on the upstroke can chip the laminate. Thank you.
Great video! For areas where you can't avoid a seam in the laminate could you paint the counter top with something like shellac to decrease the odds of water damage?
Thank you! If you are talking about sealing the sub-top prior to installation, you could, but I don't think you would gain enough water protection to warrant the extra step and time. I have used acrylic-latex caulk to fill a seam during installation. Take a look at my video for cutting seams: ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Loved watching this video!! If your base ply has a join in it. Can you apply the laminate directly over the top? Or do you have to cut the laminate and have a join on top of a join? If that makes sense? Thanks!
Thank you! My preference is to be seamless as much as possible. Sometimes you can't get away from it. If the sub-top has a joint in it, and the laminate also requires a seam, it's best to keep at least 3 inches of separation. Stacking joints on top of each other creates a weak point. If the sub-top has a joint in it and the laminate is seamless, I give it a once-over with the belt sander to make sure it's flat. Thanks!
@elbowshots that's great! I wasn't sure if going over the tip of a joint on the sub surface might make the laminate crack easier.. my bench is in a caravan. Thanks!
I'm just getting ready to laminate my kitchen countertops. Watching all I can, because the idea of not being able to adjust after the contact adhesive makes me a little nervous.
The blind slats keep the pieces separated until the laminate is in position. There are more tips for positioning sheets and working with the slats at the end of one of my other videos. Seams 2 Me - ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html Good luck with your project. Thank you!
@@catsmeow5566 Sure. I have used dowels to maintain separation. I prefer the blind slats because they stack nicely for storage and they are durable. Also, that was how I was taught. Thank you.
Thank you. Here is a link to my video showing TWO PRO WAYS to seam plastic laminate for countertops: Seams 2 Me ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing the great work that you do, I'm making an island for my kitchen, first I was going to do resin on top so I rounded all the edges, do you think I can still do laminate instead? Or nail a 2x1 all around to have a flat edge?
You can do rounded edges. I usually use the top of a five-gallon bucket to get a good radius. A slightly smaller radius can be done without cracking, if you use a heat gun to warm it up. You may want to double up the sub-top to get a thicker profile on the edge. Also, check out this video to see how I rounded a teak edge: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html Thank you!
Thank you, and wow! I can tell you have done things like this a lot and you line things up easily & manage to not cut yourself. I need to put new formica down over existing laminate but I'm going to pull the countertop off to make the vanity taller (it was designed for children or someone very short). I will be able to have overlap on all of the edges that way. Is there something else I can use for trimming aside from a router? Maybe some sort of hand tool? What was the trim you used for the backsplash? Does it come in gold or polished brass (I'm going to be fixing up my mother's vanity & she likes gold colors). The contact cement that requires more pressure is just what I need. All of my cassette and VHS tapes have crooked labels because I suck at getting things aligned. You made this look so easy!
A router, or laminate trimmer, with a flush trimming bit is best. It takes the guesswork out of the equation. I have never used anything else. The b/s trim is aluminum cap and cove. It is supplied to me by the floor covering store I work through. Gold anodized pieces used to be readily available. I haven't seen it in use in decades, with the exception of the installation of a retro pattern I did in an old house. They had gold-colored faucets. I had a couple of pieces ratholed away. Good luck and thank you.
@@elbowshots Thanks for the info. I will have to do some practice with my router to make sure I get it right before I tackle it. I haven't used a router in over 25 years.
Very nice video! Thank you! I'm now confident in every aspect except the backsplash. I removed a 1x4 backsplash and would like to replace with the same. It was nailed to the wall. For the new backsplash, should I attach the laminate to the 1x4 first and glue it to the wall, or nail the 1x4 to the wall and then laminate it. Any suggestions?
Either way will work. With a 1x4 (Montana) backsplash, I usually laminate the ends and top, nail it to the wall, then cover the face. Thank you and good luck.
Thank you! Yes, as a matter of fact, I have. Except that I do not work with MDF as a substrate for laminate. I prefer to use industrial grade particle board. Here is a link to "Seams 2 Me," my video on how to seam two pieces of laminate: ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Hi. Thank you. I do not have a video specifically for a small vanity at this time. I have recorded footage of a few different vanity installations, but they are not ready for publication. The basic principles of installation are the same, regardless of the size of the countertop. There are always variations that will require specific considerations, and attention. Every job is unique.
Very well done video, thank you. Wondering where you use an angled bit router bit ? I kind of remember using the straight flush bit for the edges then the angled for the top if my memory serves me correctly. Am I right ?
Thank you! I do not use an angled bit for countertops with a laminate self-edge. I put a 45 degree bevel when I'm working with hardwood edging. There were people who would do a final pass with a 22.5 bevel bit to soften the top edge, but I have always just used a file for that.
So we are pulling the old lamenent off and laying new down on the existing counter tops. Will we need to sand down all the glue completely flat and smooth to get the best finish? Or should we just laminate over the existing counter and not remove old top? The laminate actually rolls up the wall we are going away from that as well and going with an actual backsplash. Thanks for you video
A flat and smooth substrate is desirable to get a flat and smooth finish. If you remove existing laminate, the glue residue should be as flat as possible. Sanding glue can be a challenge if it is too thick or soft. If the top is structurally sound, you can laminate over existing. If the laminate "rolls" up the wall, it is likely a pre-formed countertop that also has a rolled down front edge. Do not try to re-laminate this style countertop. Either replace the entire countertop with a new pre-formed top, or build a new subtop using industrial grade particle board and laminate that. Thank you.
@@elbowshots thanks for the information the only roll is on the backsplash. Everything else is cornered. The laminate just roll up the wall nothing behind it so we can use flat pieces. Thanks for the information.
Thank you! This countertop was finished with a 5" laminate backsplash with standard silver aluminum cap & cove. It comes in 12ft. lengths, and is usually provided to me by the floor-covering store that provides the laminate. I have backsplash videos that I'm working on, but they are not ready yet.
Very helpful. I am about to build a plywood counter top with laminate to use as a 30” deep laundry counter top over my front loading washer and dryer. I dont have a router so after the laminate is cemented on i was just going to score with a utility knife and then use file. Question for ya can anything be done about the seam on the edge? U ever fill it with anything?
Thank you! If you are talking about the dark edge of the backing, I have not found anything that will conceal that. The dark line is generally accepted as a given in a standard laminate installation.
Great information. I'm replacing the countertops in a pop up camper. The old ones were laminated particle board. I'm using 3/4" sanded exterior plywood and laminating with Formica. I was going to laminate the edge directly to the plywood, but then I saw that you have a trim board attached to your edges. Will the laminate adhere to the raw edge of the plywood or should I add a board around the edge?
You can attach laminate to the edge of plywood if it is sanded fairly smooth. The adhesive is thin, and the edge is porous, so I would put a coat on, let it soak in and set up, then apply a second coat. Thank you!
@@elbowshots I ended up ripping some 1/4" lattice boards and gluing and nailing them to the edges that will be laminated. It's a much smoother edge. I'm going to urethane the bottom of the countertops for water protection. Since the top side is bare wood and will soak up the adhesive, would it be beneficial to urethane the top side as well to seal the wood before putting on the adhesive?
@@ronbednarczyk2497 I don't think there is any reason to seal the plywood prior to applying the adhesive. Contact cement is highly water resistant and will act as a sealant itself.
Plastic laminate is usually available at floor-covering stores, home improvement stores, and some cabinet shops or lumber yards. Here is a link to a sheet on Amazon: amzn.to/3zSAC5n Other sizes and patterns are available. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you!
I noticed you added small chrome trim on the backsplash. Is it flexible, what size did you order and where can i buy it? Also does it come with adhesive already or does it need to be cemented like the laminate? Thank you for this video!
The trim is a rigid brushed aluminum that comes in 12 ft. lengths. It is cut to fit and cemented on with the laminate. It is usually kept in stock at the floorcovering store that provides the sheet laminate for my jobs. It is a product similar to this: www.tools4flooring.com/futura-3-32-silver-square-metal-cove-cap-12-length.html Thank you!
Sure, I have filed many curved edges with a flat file. Outside curves are easier than inside curves, but both can be done. Take it slowly and you should be fine. Thank you!
The tool is called a laminate slitter. Here is a link to one on Amazon: Laminate Slitter - amzn.to/3caVICb There are links in the description to the specialty tools I use. Thank you!
What are the steps to cutout the hole for the sink? This would be for a counter that already has a hole for the sink. I just need to cut the new laminate over the covered hole. Do you cut from under the sink? What tools did you use cut it out. Since its going to be covered with the sink I imagine the finish doesn't have to be perfect but want to make it as clean as possible. Thanks in advance
The sink hole is usually cut out of the sub-top before the laminate is installed. They just did not have the new sink on-site for this job. I use my router, like I do on the outer edge, to cut the laminate. Punch a hole with a screwdriver to allow for the bit. The back ledge is where the off-set router comes in handy. If you do not have an off-set router, I have used a file, with several downward strokes, to break off that last strip. It is risky, if you haven't done it before, and you have to make sure the laminate is well bonded along that back ledge. Thank you.
I went to 2 stores, Lowes and Menards, and they both gave me crap about wanting to purchase a sheet of laminate. I dont understand why, i guess people usually dont buy them
True, most people will not attempt laminate fabrication, so some of the bigger stores may not find it worth their time to deal with it. I usually get my laminate through floor-covering stores, cabinet shops, or independent lumber yards. I have seen Formica brand selling 4 X 8 sheets on Amazon. Thank you!
That makes no sense. They sell the product, so exactly why would they give you crap? I'm not buying your story, not even for a second. I've ordered laminate sheets from both of those stores, many times, and they've never said anything other than thank you for your business...
I agree with Billy Mack. I bought a sheet online from Home Depot. It was the easiest thing ever. Selected it and paid. Then they delivered it right to my front door.
@@elbowshots I am Cabinet by trade although Cabinet makers normally make free standing furniture there was much more call for built ins back in the seventies when I was a apprentice I would have done hundreds of bench tops using this method, I assumed it was all pre glued and post formed these days. I don't think there would much call for this method here (Australia)
Built in place laminate countertops were much more common for residential use back in the 70s, 80s, and most of the 90s. When the various solid surfaces started being used, the demand went down. For a while, everybody wanted granite, but there were still plenty of custom installations that needed to be done. There are many commercial applications where a straight workbench is not the best solution. Pre-formed countertops are faster and easier, but are more limited in application. I don't know for sure, but there might be more demand in Australia than you think. Thank you.
About how much did this all cost. My kitchen is about the same size as the one in this video . im trying to weigh my options because i absolutely hate my countertops.question2: Is it possible to relaminate my counters ? Question 3 : i have a back splash block that they laminated as well. Would i have to remove that first?
Every job is unique, and prices vary by region. Q1: This kitchen required a 4X10 (40), and a 3X8 (24) for a total of 64 sf. @ $12/sf for material & labor, plus prep. Q2: Yes, if the existing laminate is flat, and well-secured, it is possible to laminate over the top. Q3: I think you are asking about a "Montana" backsplash. (I don't know how they got that name.) These are usually attached to the walls, but I have seen them attached, by screws or nails, up through the countertop, with the top and backsplash installed as a single unit. Typically, I remove any existing backsplash, install new tops, and install new backsplash. A single row of tile can be an elegant look. Look for future videos on backsplash options.
Great video! I’m looking at redoing my counters, but when I bought the house, the counters had been painted with that counter top paint, so I can’t see the 45° seams in the two corners, this shouldn’t be a problem, but the length is 145” and I can’t seem to find any thing longer than 144”. I don’t want another seam in the middle somewhere. What am I to do? Edit, these counters I’m wishing to replace are from a remodel form the late 60’s
Hi. This question brings several things to mind. First, most sheet laminate is one inch larger than the call size. For example, a 60X144 will usually have an actual size of 61X145. Though, the extra inch is not always usable. Second, it is not a good idea to stack a seam on top of another. If I am going over the top of an existing countertop, I keep a couple of inches separation. Mitering the corners wastes a lot of material and creates unnecessary challenges. When seaming an 'L' or 'U' shaped counter, I usually place the seams a couple of inches from the inside corner (front edge), perpendicular to the sheets. Thank you!
@@elbowshots thanks for answering and also clarifying a few thing for me. So if I understand you correctly about the seams on a L or U shaped counter, you are saying (in my case at least) instead of having a sheet at 145” and mitering the corner, I should instead cut that same piece to 118.5” (145” - 26.5” the 26.5” is the width of the return) and this would give me a seam at a right angle/perpendicular to the long edge of the counter.
I usually put the ends on first, then the fronts, then the decks. This video lays out my process of sequencing: ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html Thank you!
I don't have a backsplash video ready at this time. I lost the editing to that and several other videos when doing a backup of my hard drive. I still have the raw footage, but I will have to start over. Thank you.
@@elbowshots Oh no! I'm sorry you lost your data. I know what that is like. I've had my main drive and backup drive fail around the same time before. It sucks! Hopefully you will have time to get everything sorted. For future backing up, they sell a device that looks like a toaster that allows you to clone your entire drive to another drive. I cloned an old HDD to an SSD. I'll wait patiently for the backsplash video. I know you must have a lot of other things to do as well.
It's called a laminate slitter. There is a list of the specialty tools I used for this video in the description. Here is the link for the slitter: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Laminate Slitter - amzn.to/3caVICb Thank you!
The router bit is a 1/2-inch flush cut bit: Flush Cut Bit - amzn.to/3r5kvMk You can find links to the specialty tools I use in this video in the description. Thank you!
These are shears specifically designed to cut laminate. There is a link in the video description. Here also: Laminate Shears - amzn.to/3tNivKy Thank you!
Thank you! Yes, you can go over the existing, as long as the existing laminate is flat and secure. The backsplash metal requires a set of metal miters: amzn.to/38IiCi8 (Amazon Affiliate Link) The backsplash videos are not ready yet.
The short answer is yes. If the existing laminate is structurally sound, and you just want to resurface the countertop, you can scuff the surface (I use a belt sander) so the adhesive will bond, and install new sheet laminate "over existing." While it is possible to re-secure some loose spots, if the edges are not well bonded, you will not get the results you want. Also, I do not recommend trying to resurface a pre-formed countertop, these have a rolled-over front edge and built-in backsplash. These countertops are manufactured in factories using heat, pressure, and large machines. Thank you and good luck.
@@elbowshots Hands down! I Do a buttload of refurb and it's amazing what you find under old solid color lams. I often top with brown board with the textured side up for extra bonding power. Low VOC adhesives just don't work like the old school MEK based contact adhesive. But I'd rather do all solid surface and concrete than huff those fumes again. Brown board texture up for the heavy duty applications. It will never blister bubble or pop.
I can't see the specific countertop you are asking about. So, I cannot give a definitive answer without an on-site inspection. I would NOT try to install new laminate on a pre-fab countertop that has the front edge rolled over. You can go over laminate if the existing laminate is flat, well-adhered, and structurally sound. I usually scarify the existing laminate with a belt sander to give the adhesive "bite." Thank you!
💥Really great video. Thank you. 11:40 I’m watching you use the file to lightly knock down that top edge flush. It’s been over 30 years since I installed Formica when I built a receptionist desk for a hair salon which was much more complicated than just a countertop and don’t really remember everything but I do recall using a belt sander with a really fine grit to do the same thing. I kept it at a 90 degree angle to the edge and using it so the belt direction was into the top so that it was not pulling the edge material off and going very lightly. Have you ever done that yourself? Also can I score and snap the product with a sharp utility knife along my straight edge vs that carbide scoring tool that I see you using? Thank you in advance for any further information.
23:59 Yes, I’m back for one more question and that’s it. HAA. You went with a flush cut router bit to trim off the excess. I remember using a beveled bit. I think it was 22°. Thoughts on that too.?? Definitely gave you a 👍🏼
Thank you. Yes, I have used a belt sander turned the way you described to make the self-edge flush. I didn't think I gained any advantage over filing it down, unless it was a very large countertop. I do not recommend scoring laminate with a utility blade. It can be done, but it's not very safe and results are not as good. A laminate scoring tool is the best option. If you can't find a laminate scoring tool, or don't want to wait for one to arrive, you may be able to find one designed to cut acrylic sheets, or tile backerboard. Either of those would be better than a utility knife. I have seen scoring tips that fit utility knife handles. That might be another option. Thanks for watching.
I used to see people using a 22-degree bevel occasionally, but I always preferred the straight flush cut bit. I just ease the edge with the file. Thank you.
There is not enough information for me to answer your question. You say vinyl, do you mean laminate? How much, of what part, is peeling off of what material? For spot repairs, I sometimes use an adhesive caulk and hold it in place with blue painter's tape. PolySeamseal makes a mold and mildew resistant, watertight seal. It cleans up with water. I hope that helps you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. amzn.to/3akAC31
Where do you get this laminate slitter? i'm seeing laminate trimmers at HDP and Lowe's, but not slitters for the side trim pieces. I was hoping for a rental from HDP, but not finding it..
7:40 you point out that you forgot to trim wood flush. You fixed it no big deal. Btw, I've found your laminate vids to be the most helpful I've found. I just finished watching them all. I do wonder if you'd rather glue the laminate on a countertop already installed or do you sometimes build the top, glue on the laminate, and then install it on the cabinets. I'm in the process of making an 11' L-shaped counter and it sure seems like laminating it on a workbench would make it easier to trim up the corners and whatnot if not installed on cabinets between two walls. But am a little concerned about something cracking or chipping trying to move that large of a countertop into place. Do you prefer to glue on laminate after base countertop has installed on cabs? @@elbowshots
LOL I'm glad you clarified that. As a general rule of thumb, I prefer to have the sub-tops secured to the cabinets. It's easier for me to work on them that way. Everything stays more stable. When I have worked on tops that are not secured, I feel like I have to chase it around too much. There are some tips for handling large sheets in this video: ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html Thank you!
This job was installed over new plywood sub-tops . You can install over existing laminate if it is well bonded. I recommend sanding the existing material to provide bite for the adhesive. Thank you.
Hi. Search for "laminate slitter." Tools 4 Flooring has one, and Amazon has a couple. The one I'm using is made by Virutex. It's about 35 years old, and still works like new.
WHAT a RELIEF...FINALLY a no-nonsense vid that doesn't wear me out watching- REALLY appreciate ALL the detail- HUGE!!! Great job-thank you!!!
Thank you very much! Glad it helped!
THIS is what a tutorial should look like. Clear, concise, terminology that makes sense; hell yeah. I've watched thousands of how-to videos over the years; it's stuff like this that keeps UA-cam from becoming a wasteland of bad advice. Thanks!
Thank you very much. I appreciate it. I'm happy you found it helpful.
So true. And no damn background music.
Just assume 3x the time they show, lol
I really liked the format of this one. Narrating the process, remembering the little details. The craftsman has that same "we hope you'll stay with us at Motel 6, and we'll leave the light on for you" vibe in his voice, warm and calm. I want to cut a custom counter top in my laundry room so I'm watching a few vids and this one has been my favorite.
Thank you for the kind words. I am happy to hear that you like it. Good luck with your project.
So useful to watch somebody who really knows what they are doing tell you exactly how to do something with just the right amount of detail with zero excess verbiage. Masterful workmanship and masterful communication.
Thank you! I appreciate the high compliment.
Thank you for this video! I have a workbench in my shop and have all but destroyed the painted top of it so I'm covering it with sheet laminate. What I love about this video is that it shows installation against a wall, like most counters are. All the others I've viewed so far are either demos of perfectly square free standing tops or islands, so there is no mention of wall variances. This will be a huge help once I get around to actually installing the laminate.
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.
One of the best down-to-earth videos I've seen regarding laminate installation. Excellent. Thanks for sharing your wisdom/experience. All the best. 👏👍
Thank you! I appreciate that. Glad you enjoyed it.
It will never get easier to fix than now! Love it
Thank you!
Yes, it always seems easier to take care of a misstep before it grows into a problem.
I'm so glad I found this! I didn't want to paint my countertops I have not been impressed with the long-term results.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
This is a great video. Nothing flashy, but solid techniques and excellent tips for a great finish. Thanks!
Thank you. I just want to show people how I do what I do. Not polished, just a man-at-work video at an actual jobsite.
I've watch alot of videos on laminate instalation and this is by far the best. Sorry I didn't see this one when I started my first project.
Thank you! Now, you have a resource for next time.
Thanks for the tip on a new scoring tool having the tendency to walk. I'm doing my own counter top install and I'm the point of laying the laminate and that tip could prove to be very helpful so as not to screw up the laminate with it walking.
You're welcome.
I was taught to place my straight-edge on my work and have the cut-off piece on the open side just in case that happens.
Thank you!
This was great! Clear, informative and a touch of humor!
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Spent all day watching videos like this. This one is the best. Thank you.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Mannn I wish I could buy some 2" laminate strips for my counters, but most places will only sell full sheets for $160+ or half sheets for about $20 less than a full.
Want anything less? Promptly directed to 3/4" melamine edge banding.
Sourcing problems aside, Thank YOU for making the installation methods accessible and easy to understand!
Thank you! I usually cut my self-edge strips from the full sheets when I am cutting pieces for the job. They are not available as a stand-alone product.
An option that may work for you is to use hardwood strips. I have done countertops with oak or maple edging.
Here is a link to a video where I used teak:
ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html
Those are skilled hands at work Sir! Thank you for this video!
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Informative, thanks. I would have liked to see the back-splash edging and installation.
Thank you! Here is a link to the backsplash video:
ua-cam.com/video/lYY7nHIlFYU/v-deo.html
I have some cabinets in my shop that I need to do laminate tops on, and your video did a great job of giving detailed advice on how to complete the job
Awesome! Thank you!
Very informative, very easy to understand. Thank you!
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks a LOT. You have the best video on this that I have watched. You had a lot of info and I have watched it a few times. Thanks again.
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.
This is the best instructional video I have seen. Just what I needed for a basement kitchen that needs some work. Awesome video!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for this. I need to laminate a small dinette table in a vintage camper I've rebuilt. You posted this right on time.
Thank you. Glad I could help.
You are a great teacher! Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You're very welcome! Thank you!
I liked how he laid it all out - thorough and easy to follow.
Thank you. Thorough and easy to follow were two of my primary goals.
Thanks for the tips, wish I'd watched this one before doing my kitchen, got some "hooks" that hooked clothes and snapped off. Just did my RV the way you showed and it came out great.
Sorry to hear about the hooks. Happy to hear about the RV.
I'm guessing the pieces that snapped off were at the corners of the self-edge. I have done self-edge replacement. Usually, because a corner snapped off.
The best way I have found is to use the laminate slitter to cut the new piece. It provides a clean edge that needs minimal filing.
That is, of course, if you have more material.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad the RV came out great.
Such a great video! Your narration is superb! Thanks!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
This was definitely informative, but it was his theatrically, stimulating, in your face personality that kept me fully engaged and momentary falling over in laughter from his quick wit jokes 😂🤣; "And now I'd like to introduce you to an old friend of mine, The Makita Offset Router" Love it! Hahahaha!!
Wow, thank you! I'm glad you found it interesting and useful.
Very well explained.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
I struggled with self edge end-cuts for so dang long, just couldnt get it right. I almost sold my van with all the tools...
But then.... bam!
I got me some 1984 ceramic tile nippers and filed the stops off.
Life is pretty OK now.
Thank you.
Yes. Isn't it amazing how one little idea can be so enlightening that your life changes as a result of your new outlook.
I'm glad I was able to help you out of such a crises of vocation.
Thank you.
btw, If you know a better method, I'm listening.
Hi Doug, sorry I took so long to reply. I was working when the notification came in, and when I got home, I couldn't find it anywhere. Anyway, I found it in the spam folder.
Your first comment cracked me up. It sounded like one of my brothers bustin' my chops.
I have tried a few different methods of nipping laminate, like various types of clippers and the router. The ceramic tile nippers with the stops filed off are the best for me. The double beveled cutters don't get quite close enough, and the farrier's nippers are too heavy and bulky.
I am often asked how I like a particular tool, and when I think back to how long I've actually been using it (most of them over 30 years), I usually conclude that, "That's a pretty good instrument." My metal miter box was old when it was handed down to me, and I still use it.
Thank you for the chat, it was fun.
@@elbowshots I hear you bro. I was busting your chops because I just got a good chuckle from how you explain in great detail what you used and where they came from and how long you had them LOL I've actually got a pair of mild steel handmade snips that are about 11 in Long and they have curved Jaws very close tolerance almost like a pair of scissors. The left side jaw is the lower thinner cutting edge. And that's my primary go-to because I also use it for cutting oversized tops for vanities some backsplash and anytime I just don't know where my carbide tip cutter is or I don't feel like listening to my mini router and in a lot of cases the less mess the better when it comes to the router. Good luck man nice video try not to give all the secrets away though so many people out here in the west coast think they know what they're doing and it used to be money in my pocket to go and fix their crap but nowadays people don't have money to pay twice. Peace
Terrific job explaining the project in great detail. This will be very helpful when I tackle our cottage countertops this summer. Thank you for sharing your expertise !
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful.
Nice bides , you can tell you’ve done a couple countertops 👍
Thank you! I have done a few countertops over the last 40 years.
You have the best laminate tutorials on youtube! Very helpful.
I see you make all of your cuts prior to using the router very precise. Particularly on the edges with the laminate slitter.
If I don't want to buy a slitter (they are a little pricey, and I'm just doing a 1 time kitchen DIY project), could I just make 'rough' cuts with shears and/or circular saw and then trim the edges up with a router?
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
Without a laminate slitter, I usually use a straight-edge and scoring tool to cut self-edge. I cut it about 1/8" oversized.
To install, align the bottom with the sub-top, then trim the top flush and file it.
Thanks again.
@@elbowshots Great, thanks! I guess also what I am asking is:
Could I leave it 1-2 inches oversized and then just trim with router (assuming I have plenty of laminate sheet)? Is there some downside to doing it that way that I am not seeing?
I have always used half-inch overhang. My router bit is half-inch. So after fitting to the wall, I have less than that.
With an overhang of more than the diameter of the bit, it creates more drag, which takes a little longer to trim.
Also, the laminate can curl downward at the outside edge. This can cause it to dip below the cutters on that side of the router bit.
You can have 1-2 inches of overhang. It's just faster and easier for me to work with a half-inch.
Thank you!
Nice work Mate, big help :)
Thank you! Glad to hear it!
Great video. Concise and informative. Will definitely reference as I'm doing my project. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you! Good luck with your project, Justin.
I want to install new laminate over an existing previously used plywood substrate. I removed the old laminate, it was chipped, cracked, warped and bubbling up, etc. I scrapped and sanded all of the old contact cement off so the substrate is clean free of old glue and smooth. Can I now apply the adhesive to this existing plywood substrate follow the procedures in your videos?
Great instructional videos and I have looked at a lot of them. Thank you.
Based on your description of the condition of the substrate,
I would say yes, you are ready to install new laminate.
Sometimes, removing laminate from plywood pulls up large splinters from the face. You are fortunate to have a smooth surface.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing, this one’s the best I’ve seen.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Thanks for your kindness
Thank you! I am glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for doing this video! I learned SO MUCH!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Do you have a video that shows how to do a curved outside corner? Specially how to do the counter top edge.
I do not have any footage of doing a curved outside laminate corner. I can recommend you make sure the edge is square to the countertop so it will track properly as it goes around. I usually use a heat gun to soften the laminate to prevent cracking. I also recommend a radius about the size of the top of a 5-gallon bucket.
I have a video of a rounded teak edge: ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html
Thank you!
Excellent, to the point, laminate video, thank you
Thank you. Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful video thank you
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Awesome information in a short time I no how to do that now thanks to you bro Asè ✌🏿✋🏿✨
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.
Thank you, very helpful
Thank you! Happy to hear that.
Wonderful to watch (and hear) a true pro at work. Big compliments!
- Have you ever tried plastic laminate on walls, using FRP adhesive?
Thank you! I have installed laminate on walls in tubs and showers, as well as for wainscot and full-height, floor to ceiling panels. It has been a while since I've done any of those. I have not used FRP adhesive, but it seems like a good product to use for this application.
I have seen panels installed with acrylic tile adhesive. Laminate has a compressed paper backing which absorbs the moisture in acrylic adhesive and causes buckling of the panel.
Awesome video very helpful. How do you handle the front edge if the corners are cut at a 45? Outside corner not inside if that makes sense? Is there a certain order you glue the pieces?
Sure, that makes sense. I have installed those corners in different sequences. It doesn't seem to make much difference. If it is a very short run, like less than two inches, I have put those on first.
Usually, I tend to stick with the sequence of working from back to front. So, that little corner piece would be second.
As long as the joints are filed smooth, there shouldn't be an issue.
Thank you!
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful and confidence building. I'm about to replace our Formica pre-form countertops with laminate. It's one of the last steps in a (very successful) renovation plan of our home that has had me learn so many skills. I've moved our bathroom from one side on the house to the other (had to divert our plumbing stack), taken out walls, put in windows, everything from shingling, drywall, ceramic tile, laminate flooring, plumbing, lots of electrical, etc. But I have never done laminate counter tops. I'm not a trades person by profession ( I'm an electronics engineer working as a computer guy for a health region) but along the way I've had the opportunity (or have been faced with the necessity) of having to do a lot of different things. I would also rather learn how to do something than pay someone else to do it. This stems from a combination of pride ( I think I'm smart enough to figure most things out) and frugality (can't afford much so better figure it out). But I have never had any experience with glue-down laminate counters except seeing it done once when I was probably 6 or 7 years old in the house I grew up in. Again, thank-you, you are a true craftsman and an excellent instructor.
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Thank you for your kind words. I love your adventurous spirit, and your willingness to expand your knowledge base by trying new things. Even if we are not exactly sure how to move forward, the answers will come to us if we seek them. I wish you continued success in your ongoing project.
When using a jigsaw, there is a "down cutting" blade. The teeth are angled so that the. Dow corce is supported by the surface its setting on.
Yes, I have used these blades. We called them reverse tooth blades. They cut on the downstroke. They are good for cutting laminate that has already been adhered to a substrate. Using a standard blade that cuts on the upstroke can chip the laminate. Thank you.
Great video! For areas where you can't avoid a seam in the laminate could you paint the counter top with something like shellac to decrease the odds of water damage?
Thank you! If you are talking about sealing the sub-top prior to installation, you could, but I don't think you would gain enough water protection to warrant the extra step and time.
I have used acrylic-latex caulk to fill a seam during installation.
Take a look at my video for cutting seams:
ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Loved watching this video!! If your base ply has a join in it. Can you apply the laminate directly over the top? Or do you have to cut the laminate and have a join on top of a join? If that makes sense? Thanks!
Thank you!
My preference is to be seamless as much as possible.
Sometimes you can't get away from it. If the sub-top has a joint in it, and the laminate also requires a seam, it's best to keep at least 3 inches of separation. Stacking joints on top of each other creates a weak point.
If the sub-top has a joint in it and the laminate is seamless, I give it a once-over with the belt sander to make sure it's flat.
Thanks!
@elbowshots that's great! I wasn't sure if going over the tip of a joint on the sub surface might make the laminate crack easier.. my bench is in a caravan. Thanks!
Thank you! You might find this video interesting:
ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html
I'm just getting ready to laminate my kitchen countertops. Watching all I can, because the idea of not being able to adjust after the contact adhesive makes me a little nervous.
The blind slats keep the pieces separated until the laminate is in position. There are more tips for positioning sheets and working with the slats at the end of one of my other videos.
Seams 2 Me - ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Good luck with your project. Thank you!
Same! I am terrible at getting things to line up properly. I always end up getting tape, stickers, labels, etc crooked.
@@elbowshots wooden dowels can be used as well, right? I've seen them used more often. This was he first time I've seen blind slats used before.
@@catsmeow5566 Sure. I have used dowels to maintain separation. I prefer the blind slats because they stack nicely for storage and they are durable. Also, that was how I was taught. Thank you.
Thanks for the Video. Great tips. Can you post one for cutting and joining 90 deg counter tops?
Thank you. Here is a link to my video showing TWO PRO WAYS to seam plastic laminate for countertops:
Seams 2 Me ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Excellent video. Thank you !
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
Thank you for sharing the great work that you do, I'm making an island for my kitchen, first I was going to do resin on top so I rounded all the edges, do you think I can still do laminate instead? Or nail a 2x1 all around to have a flat edge?
You can do rounded edges. I usually use the top of a five-gallon bucket to get a good radius. A slightly smaller radius can be done without cracking, if you use a heat gun to warm it up.
You may want to double up the sub-top to get a thicker profile on the edge.
Also, check out this video to see how I rounded a teak edge:
ua-cam.com/video/eCiyDHyN92A/v-deo.html
Thank you!
- Job "well done." Thanx 4 sharing the clear explanation.
Thank you. I'm happy you enjoyed it .
Nice, cute fur babies😊
Thank you! They are cute.
Thank you, and wow! I can tell you have done things like this a lot and you line things up easily & manage to not cut yourself. I need to put new formica down over existing laminate but I'm going to pull the countertop off to make the vanity taller (it was designed for children or someone very short). I will be able to have overlap on all of the edges that way. Is there something else I can use for trimming aside from a router? Maybe some sort of hand tool?
What was the trim you used for the backsplash? Does it come in gold or polished brass (I'm going to be fixing up my mother's vanity & she likes gold colors).
The contact cement that requires more pressure is just what I need. All of my cassette and VHS tapes have crooked labels because I suck at getting things aligned.
You made this look so easy!
A router, or laminate trimmer, with a flush trimming bit is best. It takes the guesswork out of the equation. I have never used anything else.
The b/s trim is aluminum cap and cove. It is supplied to me by the floor covering store I work through.
Gold anodized pieces used to be readily available. I haven't seen it in use in decades, with the exception of the installation of a retro pattern I did in an old house. They had gold-colored faucets. I had a couple of pieces ratholed away. Good luck and thank you.
@@elbowshots Thanks for the info. I will have to do some practice with my router to make sure I get it right before I tackle it. I haven't used a router in over 25 years.
Very cool video. Thank You.
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thank you!
Great video hope we can do ours soon!
Thank you! I hope so too.
Very nice video! Thank you! I'm now confident in every aspect except the backsplash. I removed a 1x4 backsplash and would like to replace with the same. It was nailed to the wall. For the new backsplash, should I attach the laminate to the 1x4 first and glue it to the wall, or nail the 1x4 to the wall and then laminate it. Any suggestions?
Either way will work. With a 1x4 (Montana) backsplash, I usually laminate the ends and top, nail it to the wall, then cover the face. Thank you and good luck.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Have you ever JOINED 2 SEPARATE PIECES OF LAMINATE TOGETHER ON ONE MDF BOARD OR COUNTERTOP?
Thank you! Yes, as a matter of fact, I have. Except that I do not work with MDF as a substrate for laminate. I prefer to use industrial grade particle board.
Here is a link to "Seams 2 Me," my video on how to seam two pieces of laminate: ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Great video! Do you have a video on how to cut the laminate for a small bathroom sink?
Hi. Thank you. I do not have a video specifically for a small vanity at this time. I have recorded footage of a few different vanity installations, but they are not ready for publication.
The basic principles of installation are the same, regardless of the size of the countertop. There are always variations that will require specific considerations, and attention. Every job is unique.
Very well done video, thank you. Wondering where you use an angled bit router bit ?
I kind of remember using the straight flush bit for the edges then the angled for the top if my memory serves me correctly. Am I right ?
Thank you! I do not use an angled bit for countertops with a laminate self-edge. I put a 45 degree bevel when I'm working with hardwood edging.
There were people who would do a final pass with a 22.5 bevel bit to soften the top edge, but I have always just used a file for that.
So we are pulling the old lamenent off and laying new down on the existing counter tops. Will we need to sand down all the glue completely flat and smooth to get the best finish? Or should we just laminate over the existing counter and not remove old top? The laminate actually rolls up the wall we are going away from that as well and going with an actual backsplash. Thanks for you video
A flat and smooth substrate is desirable to get a flat and smooth finish. If you remove existing laminate, the glue residue should be as flat as possible. Sanding glue can be a challenge if it is too thick or soft.
If the top is structurally sound, you can laminate over existing.
If the laminate "rolls" up the wall, it is likely a pre-formed countertop that also has a rolled down front edge.
Do not try to re-laminate this style countertop. Either replace the entire countertop with a new pre-formed top, or build a new subtop using industrial grade particle board and laminate that.
Thank you.
@@elbowshots thanks for the information the only roll is on the backsplash. Everything else is cornered. The laminate just roll up the wall nothing behind it so we can use flat pieces. Thanks for the information.
Nice job
Thank you!
Great video with excellent tips! What kind of trim was used at the joint and around the backsplash?
Thank you! This countertop was finished with a 5" laminate backsplash with standard silver aluminum cap & cove. It comes in 12ft. lengths, and is usually provided to me by the floor-covering store that provides the laminate. I have backsplash videos that I'm working on, but they are not ready yet.
Do you show how to do the backsplash in another video?
Yes, I have this video for the backsplash:
ua-cam.com/video/lYY7nHIlFYU/v-deo.html
Thank you!
Very helpful. I am about to build a plywood counter top with laminate to use as a 30” deep laundry counter top over my front loading washer and dryer. I dont have a router so after the laminate is cemented on i was just going to score with a utility knife and then use file. Question for ya can anything be done about the seam on the edge? U ever fill it with anything?
Thank you! If you are talking about the dark edge of the backing, I have not found anything that will conceal that. The dark line is generally accepted as a given in a standard laminate installation.
Great information. I'm replacing the countertops in a pop up camper. The old ones were laminated particle board. I'm using 3/4" sanded exterior plywood and laminating with Formica. I was going to laminate the edge directly to the plywood, but then I saw that you have a trim board attached to your edges. Will the laminate adhere to the raw edge of the plywood or should I add a board around the edge?
You can attach laminate to the edge of plywood if it is sanded fairly smooth. The adhesive is thin, and the edge is porous, so I would put a coat on, let it soak in and set up, then apply a second coat. Thank you!
@@elbowshots I ended up ripping some 1/4" lattice boards and gluing and nailing them to the edges that will be laminated. It's a much smoother edge. I'm going to urethane the bottom of the countertops for water protection. Since the top side is bare wood and will soak up the adhesive, would it be beneficial to urethane the top side as well to seal the wood before putting on the adhesive?
@@ronbednarczyk2497 I don't think there is any reason to seal the plywood prior to applying the adhesive. Contact cement is highly water resistant and will act as a sealant itself.
I loved this.
Thank you!
Laminate still looks good and it only cost $100 rather than $2,000 for stone in a kitchen
Wow! 20X the cost. I didn't realize stone was that much more. Thank you for the update.
Where i can find these laminated sheets . I can only find self adhesive ones only. Can u plz send me the link to buy from.
Loved ur work
Plastic laminate is usually available at floor-covering stores, home improvement stores, and some cabinet shops or lumber yards.
Here is a link to a sheet on Amazon: amzn.to/3zSAC5n
Other sizes and patterns are available. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you!
I noticed you added small chrome trim on the backsplash. Is it flexible, what size did you order and where can i buy it? Also does it come with adhesive already or does it need to be cemented like the laminate? Thank you for this video!
The trim is a rigid brushed aluminum that comes in 12 ft. lengths. It is cut to fit and cemented on with the laminate. It is usually kept in stock at the floorcovering store that provides the sheet laminate for my jobs. It is a product similar to this: www.tools4flooring.com/futura-3-32-silver-square-metal-cove-cap-12-length.html
Thank you!
This is really great! How would you file a round table? We are making an oval table. Would a flat file be good to finish the sharp edge?
Sure, I have filed many curved edges with a flat file. Outside curves are easier than inside curves, but both can be done. Take it slowly and you should be fine. Thank you!
Thank you
You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
What is the tool that your using to cut the strips and where can I get one?
The tool is called a laminate slitter.
Here is a link to one on Amazon:
Laminate Slitter - amzn.to/3caVICb
There are links in the description to the specialty tools I use.
Thank you!
You should put a list of the tools used
Thank you, Manuel. I have put a list of the specialty tools used in this video in the description.
What are the steps to cutout the hole for the sink? This would be for a counter that already has a hole for the sink. I just need to cut the new laminate over the covered hole. Do you cut from under the sink? What tools did you use cut it out. Since its going to be covered with the sink I imagine the finish doesn't have to be perfect but want to make it as clean as possible. Thanks in advance
The sink hole is usually cut out of the sub-top before the laminate is installed. They just did not have the new sink on-site for this job.
I use my router, like I do on the outer edge, to cut the laminate.
Punch a hole with a screwdriver to allow for the bit.
The back ledge is where the off-set router comes in handy.
If you do not have an off-set router, I have used a file, with several downward strokes, to break off that last strip. It is risky, if you haven't done it before, and you have to make sure the laminate is well bonded along that back ledge. Thank you.
I went to 2 stores, Lowes and Menards, and they both gave me crap about wanting to purchase a sheet of laminate. I dont understand why, i guess people usually dont buy them
True, most people will not attempt laminate fabrication, so some of the bigger stores may not find it worth their time to deal with it.
I usually get my laminate through floor-covering stores, cabinet shops, or independent lumber yards.
I have seen Formica brand selling 4 X 8 sheets on Amazon.
Thank you!
That makes no sense. They sell the product, so exactly why would they give you crap?
I'm not buying your story, not even for a second.
I've ordered laminate sheets from both of those stores, many times, and they've never said anything other than thank you for your business...
I agree with Billy Mack. I bought a sheet online from Home Depot. It was the easiest thing ever. Selected it and paid. Then they delivered it right to my front door.
I can’t find anyone to fabricate for me, so I’m DIYing it myself. I’m doing an island top that I wanted a retro laminate top for.
Interesting I did not think anyone did it like this any more
Thank you. Yes, there is still a demand for custom laminate fabrication.
@@elbowshots I am Cabinet by trade although Cabinet makers normally make free standing furniture there was much more call for built ins back in the seventies when I was a apprentice I would have done hundreds of bench tops using this method, I assumed it was all pre glued and post formed these days. I don't think there would much call for this method here (Australia)
Built in place laminate countertops were much more common for residential use back in the 70s, 80s, and most of the 90s. When the various solid surfaces started being used, the demand went down. For a while, everybody wanted granite, but there were still plenty of custom installations that needed to be done.
There are many commercial applications where a straight workbench is not the best solution. Pre-formed countertops are faster and easier, but are more limited in application.
I don't know for sure, but there might be more demand in Australia than you think. Thank you.
@@elbowshots That is quite possible I have been out of the industry for quite a while now
About how much did this all cost. My kitchen is about the same size as the one in this video . im trying to weigh my options because i absolutely hate my countertops.question2: Is it possible to relaminate my counters ?
Question 3 : i have a back splash block that they laminated as well. Would i have to remove that first?
Every job is unique, and prices vary by region.
Q1: This kitchen required a 4X10 (40), and a 3X8 (24) for a total of 64 sf. @ $12/sf for material & labor, plus prep.
Q2: Yes, if the existing laminate is flat, and well-secured, it is possible to laminate over the top.
Q3: I think you are asking about a "Montana" backsplash. (I don't know how they got that name.) These are usually attached to the walls, but I have seen them attached, by screws or nails, up through the countertop, with the top and backsplash installed as a single unit.
Typically, I remove any existing backsplash, install new tops, and install new backsplash. A single row of tile can be an elegant look.
Look for future videos on backsplash options.
Great video! I’m looking at redoing my counters, but when I bought the house, the counters had been painted with that counter top paint, so I can’t see the 45° seams in the two corners, this shouldn’t be a problem, but the length is 145” and I can’t seem to find any thing longer than 144”. I don’t want another seam in the middle somewhere. What am I to do?
Edit, these counters I’m wishing to replace are from a remodel form the late 60’s
Hi. This question brings several things to mind. First, most sheet laminate is one inch larger than the call size. For example, a 60X144 will usually have an actual size of 61X145. Though, the extra inch is not always usable. Second, it is not a good idea to stack a seam on top of another. If I am going over the top of an existing countertop, I keep a couple of inches separation. Mitering the corners wastes a lot of material and creates unnecessary challenges. When seaming an 'L' or 'U' shaped counter, I usually place the seams a couple of inches from the inside corner (front edge), perpendicular to the sheets.
Thank you!
@@elbowshots thanks for answering and also clarifying a few thing for me. So if I understand you correctly about the seams on a L or U shaped counter, you are saying (in my case at least) instead of having a sheet at 145” and mitering the corner, I should instead cut that same piece to 118.5” (145” - 26.5” the 26.5” is the width of the return) and this would give me a seam at a right angle/perpendicular to the long edge of the counter.
Yes, I think you have the idea. If you haven't seen it, I have a video on how to seam laminate: ua-cam.com/video/QOY_PSJ57ZM/v-deo.html
Thank you.
Are ouy supposed to put the sides in first? Or the Face (top) first
I usually put the ends on first, then the fronts, then the decks.
This video lays out my process of sequencing:
ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html
Thank you!
I forgot to ask, do you have the link to your video on backsplashes? I went to your profile and couldn't find it. I'm not very good with UA-cam. LOL.
I don't have a backsplash video ready at this time. I lost the editing to that and several other videos when doing a backup of my hard drive. I still have the raw footage, but I will have to start over. Thank you.
@@elbowshots Oh no! I'm sorry you lost your data. I know what that is like. I've had my main drive and backup drive fail around the same time before. It sucks! Hopefully you will have time to get everything sorted. For future backing up, they sell a device that looks like a toaster that allows you to clone your entire drive to another drive. I cloned an old HDD to an SSD. I'll wait patiently for the backsplash video. I know you must have a lot of other things to do as well.
What is the tool you used for strips?
It's called a laminate slitter. There is a list of the specialty tools I used for this video in the description. Here is the link for the slitter:
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Laminate Slitter - amzn.to/3caVICb
Thank you!
What bit are you using in the router?
The router bit is a 1/2-inch flush cut bit:
Flush Cut Bit - amzn.to/3r5kvMk
You can find links to the specialty tools I use in this video in the description. Thank you!
@@elbowshots Perfect. Thank you!
Where do pick up your edge caps
I cut my self-edge strips from the full sheets with a laminate slitter.
I hope that answers your question. Thank you.
What nails do you use to attach the fascia board
I use 1 1/2" finish nails for the self-edge.
Thank you!
@@elbowshots good job trying to do one myself
Best wishes on your project!
What type of shears are you using?
These are shears specifically designed to cut laminate.
There is a link in the video description.
Here also: Laminate Shears - amzn.to/3tNivKy
Thank you!
Thanks. Sir can I do this on top of a original laminate countertops with a (laminate sheets)and how did you do the (back splash piping).
thanks.
Thank you! Yes, you can go over the existing, as long as the existing laminate is flat and secure. The backsplash metal requires a set of metal miters: amzn.to/38IiCi8 (Amazon Affiliate Link)
The backsplash videos are not ready yet.
Can I lay a new sheet of laminate over an existing laminate countertops in my kitchen? Thank you!
The short answer is yes. If the existing laminate is structurally sound, and you just want to resurface the countertop, you can scuff the surface (I use a belt sander) so the adhesive will bond, and install new sheet laminate "over existing."
While it is possible to re-secure some loose spots, if the edges are not well bonded, you will not get the results you want.
Also, I do not recommend trying to resurface a pre-formed countertop, these have a rolled-over front edge and built-in backsplash. These countertops are manufactured in factories using heat, pressure, and large machines.
Thank you and good luck.
*370.👍 bye for now your new friend Ken I look forward to hear from you*
Thanks 👍
What do you prefer for the substrate? Plywood, particleboard, or MDF?
I prefer industrial grade particle board for its density and consistency.
@@elbowshots Hands down! I Do a buttload of refurb and it's amazing what you find under old solid color lams. I often top with brown board with the textured side up for extra bonding power. Low VOC adhesives just don't work like the old school MEK based contact adhesive. But I'd rather do all solid surface and concrete than huff those fumes again. Brown board texture up for the heavy duty applications. It will never blister bubble or pop.
Thanks god bless
Thank you!
In your professional opinion, can I apply laminate over laminate?
I can't see the specific countertop you are asking about. So, I cannot give a definitive answer without an on-site inspection.
I would NOT try to install new laminate on a pre-fab countertop that has the front edge rolled over.
You can go over laminate if the existing laminate is flat, well-adhered, and structurally sound. I usually scarify the existing laminate with a belt sander to give the adhesive "bite."
Thank you!
💥Really great video. Thank you. 11:40 I’m watching you use the file to lightly knock down that top edge flush. It’s been over 30 years since I installed Formica when I built a receptionist desk for a hair salon which was much more complicated than just a countertop and don’t really remember everything but I do recall using a belt sander with a really fine grit to do the same thing. I kept it at a 90 degree angle to the edge and using it so the belt direction was into the top so that it was not pulling the edge material off and going very lightly. Have you ever done that yourself? Also can I score and snap the product with a sharp utility knife along my straight edge vs that carbide scoring tool that I see you using? Thank you in advance for any further information.
23:59 Yes, I’m back for one more question and that’s it. HAA. You went with a flush cut router bit to trim off the excess. I remember using a beveled bit. I think it was 22°. Thoughts on that too.?? Definitely gave you a 👍🏼
Thank you. Yes, I have used a belt sander turned the way you described to make the self-edge flush. I didn't think I gained any advantage over filing it down, unless it was a very large countertop.
I do not recommend scoring laminate with a utility blade. It can be done, but it's not very safe and results are not as good.
A laminate scoring tool is the best option.
If you can't find a laminate scoring tool, or don't want to wait for one to arrive, you may be able to find one designed to cut acrylic sheets, or tile backerboard. Either of those would be better than a utility knife. I have seen scoring tips that fit utility knife handles. That might be another option.
Thanks for watching.
I used to see people using a 22-degree bevel occasionally, but I always preferred the straight flush cut bit. I just ease the edge with the file. Thank you.
@@elbowshots Thank you for all of those replies. I’ll take all that you said and run with it
Hi
What glue i can use for my vinyl peeling off.? What best glue to repair ..thanks for reply ,really appreciate it.
There is not enough information for me to answer your question.
You say vinyl, do you mean laminate?
How much, of what part, is peeling off of what material?
For spot repairs, I sometimes use an adhesive caulk and hold it in place with blue painter's tape.
PolySeamseal makes a mold and mildew resistant, watertight seal.
It cleans up with water. I hope that helps you.
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amzn.to/3akAC31
Where do you get this laminate slitter? i'm seeing laminate trimmers at HDP and Lowe's, but not slitters for the side trim pieces. I was hoping for a rental from HDP, but not finding it..
I bought mine from a specialty shop that sold tools and trim pieces for floor-covering installers. They are available online for purchase.
What's the best way to fix a mistake? As quickly as possible.
Yes, as quickly as possible.
But seriously, I have no idea what kind of mistake you are talking about.
7:40 you point out that you forgot to trim wood flush. You fixed it no big deal. Btw, I've found your laminate vids to be the most helpful I've found. I just finished watching them all. I do wonder if you'd rather glue the laminate on a countertop already installed or do you sometimes build the top, glue on the laminate, and then install it on the cabinets. I'm in the process of making an 11' L-shaped counter and it sure seems like laminating it on a workbench would make it easier to trim up the corners and whatnot if not installed on cabinets between two walls. But am a little concerned about something cracking or chipping trying to move that large of a countertop into place. Do you prefer to glue on laminate after base countertop has installed on cabs? @@elbowshots
LOL I'm glad you clarified that.
As a general rule of thumb, I prefer to have the sub-tops secured to the cabinets. It's easier for me to work on them that way. Everything stays more stable. When I have worked on tops that are not secured, I feel like I have to chase it around too much.
There are some tips for handling large sheets in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/u-rLTH5U5yk/v-deo.html
Thank you!
Did you apply the new laminate over old laminate?
This job was installed over new plywood sub-tops . You can install over existing laminate if it is well bonded. I recommend sanding the existing material to provide bite for the adhesive. Thank you.
I can't find the splitter anywhere. I love it! Where can I buy it? Thanks!
Hi. Search for "laminate slitter."
Tools 4 Flooring has one, and Amazon has a couple. The one I'm using is made by Virutex. It's about 35 years old, and still works like new.