Well.. we can disagree, but in those poor countries, they only have 3 choices; working in a factory, working as a prostitute and just starving. I guess the first choice isn’t so bad 😶
Sadly, Park Tools are most likely made by the same child. They are made in China as well but to a higher standard. However, probably not a 5 to 10 times higher standard. Got to pay for that name and all the promotions they run.
@@explorenakedpark tool is great tho, I have only a couple of tools from them one being a Allen multi tool that’s lasted me years and I’ve had a crankbrothers I’ve had for 3 months and already rusting and torx piece is already twisted, park tool hasn’t rusted and I keep them in the same area
@@kellybrooks9899 That kind of depends... How much work on bikes are you going to do? If you're just getting a tool to work on your own bike that you may only occasionally use and it's something hyper specific to bikes I don't really see the point of getting the expensive great one. If it's something like a socket set that you'll use for all kinds of things in the future then absolutely buy a nice one.
You know what I love, a channel that goes backwards. Gets big, gets real sponsors, and then in like "Nope" I'm going back to Ali Express bike part reviews. Rock on.
11:20 this tool actually works. You need to put the chain in the middle opening and tight the end cap screw to hold it in place. I have one of this and it gets the job done.
Thank you!!! You’re the first person in the comments I’ve seen mention this, and it drove me absolutely insane. I’ve used a near identical tool across 3 different bikes with zero issue.
11:22 I bought the exact same tool probably 9 years ago as a broke 15 yo and I'm still using them. Yes 11 and 12 chains dont fit onto the 'fence' but you can still push the joint with the pin in there and it will work flawless. dont forget to wiggle out the old pin off the tool otherwise you cant push another one out of a chain.
My recommendation is to buy cheap tools at first and then replace the ones that wear out or break/cause damage with something higher quality. There is no need for most people to have Park Tool everything. Having said that, if you can afford high quality tools it makes working on the bike much more enjoyable. That means you'll probably work on your bike more, which in turn might lead to less money spent on parts and/or shop repairs. I would always recommend getting the highest quality allen/hex wrenches you can afford though right out of the gate, as these will be by far your most used tool on any modern bike.
Absolutely agreed on all points! If I find myself using a tool enough to upgrade to the /luxury/ version of it, i usually demote the affordable and still working tool to a spare toolset or travel kit. Donating to a tool library or making a toolkit for a friend or neighbor are my go-tos with larger tools or anything I genuinely no longer need. With very few exceptions, selling common off-the-shelf tools doesn't even pay for the effort of listing them and answering messages, but the small roll of basic hand tools you give away might get a friend back on their bike or to the grocery store or in the park with their kids. Local bike co-ops and cycling groups also do giveaways and community events and are always thankful for tools and parts in good shape!
I don't understand why people always recommend to buy cheap tools first and then replace when they are broken or worn out. At least for common hand tools that doesn't make much sense to me. Take the $8 hex-wrenches for example. You can buy decent ones for around $25. With the cheap ones at best you will be able to use them for a few years and hopefully they wont break just at the moment when you need them the most. And then you go out and buy a decent set. So now you spend $33, had to pause your project and wasted quite a bit of time. Or you could just spend $25 right now and have a tool that will outlast you. The only time where it makes sense to buy cheap tools is when you just want to use them once or twice (or when you can't afford anything else right now). But non of the tools in this video fall into that category.
So you want to spend more money on tools than you actually need to if you buy some more expensive quality tools to begin with? What you are saying is that everyone should use twice as much money on tools for their bike instead of buying tools that never break. Remember that it is cheaper in long term to buy good quality tools that lasts for many years or even decades compared to buying cheap useless tools that are broken after you have used it one or two times.
Some tools you only need once or twice. I agree with the original comment about buying cheap rarely used tools. If you wear them out using them more than you thought you would, definitely upgrade. But something like allens or whatever that would be used frequently, definitely spend some money the first time. I’m sure most of us have experienced the pain caused by cheap allens. (Even though the expensive one is what almost cost our boy Seth an eyeball) 👁️ 😉
@@jasonbecker4997 No i dont use my bike tools only one or two times, i use all the tools i have for fixing my bikes frequently and therefore i buy good quality tools to begin with instead of buying crappy low quality tools that dont work or is broken after its being used one or two times. I have never bought cheap tools for working on my car or my bikes and i will never do it either just because i dont waste my money on low quality tools. Of course you can do it but it will be more expensive to buy low quality tools first and then upgrade to tools that actually works and have good quality to begin with.
The small bit of wire to hook on the chain is one of those insignificant tools that actually helps so much in a bike shop when you’re doing it dozens of times in a row. We made ours out of bits of broken spokes.
Same, I saw a bike mechanic with a piece of spoke bent into that shape almost 10 years ago. I made my own and it has come in handy so many times. Now with clutched MTB derailleurs I don’t have to use it as much.
I have that Topeak chain breaker that also ha s that little piece of wire in. It is handy, but it is in my on bike toolkit, so I never bother grabbing that when working on the bike at home. Including it with the master link tool makes more sense, although it is disappointing that it seems the tool doesn't store the wire on the tool like the topeak chainbreaker does. So I'd be afraid to lose it into the depths of my toolbox. That little tool would be perfect if it had that feature. E: now that I mention it: Topeak Super Chain tool it's called. It's not super cheap, but also not super expensive. Might be a candidate for the actual recommended budget tools list.
I love that you kept that allen wrench launching into your face in there, safety glasses my friend. You never know when a tool will become a balistic missle heat seeking your eye😂
100% this. I foolishly decided to use some cheap chinesium wire flush cutters on... brake cable...! one of the blades launched itself at my face and missed my eyeball by 5mm. literally hit my lower eyelid. so yeah. don't cut steel cable with cutters rated for copper! in fact just expect catastrophic failure with any tools made from purest chinesium
I just set my hands in the direction they need to go in and turn away lol. Either that or I break out the 8ft breaker bar we've got in the shop. (Cross threaded bb's aren't so bad with infinite leverage)
It's great to know you acknowledge that not everyone can afford a 1000$ tool set from the big blue, for home mechanics! It is a good idea to share what would be a good, affordable solution! Keep going!
Man, I know it has nothing to do with the content, but I wanna say your videos helped me A LOT with my depression and autistic crysis. Thank you very much, you seem to be a very nice person.
similarly using some fine sandpaper on some sharp edges would make the tools feel better and make them scratch things less. But then I've never been someone who worries about scratching work surfaces - the bike is for using not putting on a pedestal.
being a mechanic and having a ton of tools, i enjoy all sorts of tool videos. I own tools from all over the place, from cheap stuff from the jungle site to high dollar tool truck stuff, for me it boils down to how much i will use a tool and if a higher dollar more precise tool is needed. some stuff its worth spending the coin and getting a good quality tool, other things, the cheap stuff does just fine, especially for occasional use.
The bane of my existence when I was 12 working on bmx bikes in my garage was cutting brake cables and housings, so amazed years later when I got a job at a shop and cut them like butter with park cutters
the hole in the back of the crank puller is actually a 14mm "socket", you can put a wrench on it and use it to remove the bolts that push the crank into the spindle, this is really useful because usually you cant get an adjustable wrench to fit there.
Here in the UK we have a store called Halfords that can be found in most towns/ cities. They do a 43pc bike tool kit for £60 ($74) that is pretty comprehensive and good quality. Only thing it doesn't come with is the pliers, but they sell those separately for not a lot of money. Be pretty easy to save that amount in repair shop visits by having the basic tools and giving it a go yourself!
@@michaelgharib9028horrible at assembling bikes and aftercare plus not the best quality bikes. Decathlon is the best budget brand for bikes here or local bike shops if you can afford it. Halfords advanced range are amazing tools for the money. Not tried their bike stuff yet though.
Crivit "makes" (I think there multiple brands selling the same set from the same factory) I think a similar toolset for LIDL that is similar quality, as you described it, in a handy hard plastic case. I've seen similar cases in other supermarkets on temporary deals too, though I can only vouch for the crivit.
It is worth mentioning that for the needle nose pliers you can probably get a very good quality set of non mtn bike specific pliers for less than the park tool one if your on a budget
When I bought my first "modern" (compared to what I had in the 90s) MTB 2 years ago, I had no idea of axle standards. So I ended up getting one with QR standard, without knowing what kind of a deadend this is - I only noticed when I looked for more sturdy wheels with QR and microspline hub during black friday, I found basically no BF deals and generally only a very limited (and quite pricey, in particular compared to the price of the bike) selection. In particular in the ~1000€ bike price segment, QR is still surprisingly common. I can only warn any beginner to not get distracted by high spec components (like XT derailleur and brakes in my case) and rather buy a more future proof frame and fork with boost standard.
hey man, just as a heads up, thru axle adapters! so far i only seen them on aliexpress (by a brand called muqzi, great experience with thier stuff) but i suppose other people make them as well. they're a piece of machined aluminium that you can use to convert any thru axle wheel into quick release. (obviously not the other way around) and they are cheap too! about a tenner in the world's biggest currencies. give them a look if you want to keep a perfectly good bike on the trails.
A LOT of value condensed into this video. I can't believe I never knew how to use my crank puller. Thank you! You just got yourself another subscriber ;)
With cheap bb tools or really stuck bbs you can get a bolt and run it through the tool into the bb spindle. It will lock the tool in place while getting it free. Then you take the bolt out and finish getting the cup out.
The Toopre BB tool on AliExpress looks like it's available with a bolt for that (similar to the Pedro's version) -- haven't specifically used that tool from them, but their other stuff has worked pretty well.
If you're in the US, you might also want to pick up a Harbor Freight generic tool kit as well. I picked up a SAE/Metric allen t-handle set for around $20
The crankpuller would work far better if you just grease all threads/moving parts. The chain tools might work fine up to a 8 or 9 speed chain, which is ok for a tuneup of an old bike. The bottom bracket tool should have come with a screw to fix it through the center. Please test some of the bike-multitools out there!
I have run through a lot of cheapo chain tools, they all eventually break or bend. Park is the the only way to go here, it's literally a night and day difference.
Hey Seth, the little rotating cap on the end of the crank puller is not so that the tool doesn't mar the spindle, it's so that the tool doesn't bind and instead spins freely when you wind it in - reducing the force needed to remove the crank arm. ✌
Same here, I hardly ever need it but when you do it makes the whole process so much easier and enjoyable, now the magnetic cable router that I cuss at a lot. 🤣
Yep I hvae a balance of tools from some good Park tool cutters and Spline tool (BB, cassette) to having some Bikehand items and some no name stuff, like head set press.
Most older/cheap chain breakers have driving pins that are too big for 11 and now 12 speed chains. I figured this out when the 7 year old multitool in my bag was too big to fit my 11 speed XTR/Ultegra chain.
Makes sense honestly considering that the time when they were made, and also the people that probably buy them, won't be having a 11/12 speed bike anyway.
I certainly recognised the chain tool and now I'm slightly concerned it's too big for my 12 speed chain. I've never tried since I bought it for my old 8x3 set.
@KindredBrujah I used it with some success. Some have a counter screw. The pin bends fairly easily and can't be ordered as a spare part. When I have to crack a chain, I make sure it's well lubricated, wd40 or something thin. That helps some.
With a bunch of these cheap tools and your videos, I offered free bike repair on Camp Arifjan, Kuwait during my 2017-18 deployment. I fixed a lot of bikes, even completely building a few wheels. All they had was cheap Dynacraft stuff there or some other big box bikes, so I was kept busy.... but learned a lot and honed my skills. I still have and use the tools!!! Oh, but I found you can never go cheap on a chain breaker like that. They all break. Name brand or nothing. I've been a professional mechanic (auto/hvy truck) for 30 years, so I do know what you're talking about with good tools though.
I really like RISK cycleing parts and tools. They sell all kinds of things. [RISK , Professional Bicycle Part (Riding Is My Life)]. I got a tapered headset, titanium skewer through axle quick release, Headset removal tool, master link pliers, internal cable housing kit, titanium M6 bolts for rear disc break rotor, titanium valve caps. I think that's all I have from that company. I like RISK 👍. Need to get more to test out. Like there ceramic jockey wheels, sealed bearing in ceramic/ Titanium/ Steel. Good luck.❤
Hey Seth, You're the realist Guy out there! Testing cheap stuff, but when it's succsesfull you say it! Every young Kid out there who's shredding, going trough some struggle while finding the right Tool for the right Part of the Rig! I Wish i had you're Vids Back in Time ❤ Much Love ! Keep up the good Work Greetz from Germany ❤
Park has a basic chain tool that's very cheap and very functional. It's not NICE to use, but it works and doesn't destroy itself. Park has a few tools that are actually affordable and worth buying (including that BB tool and the cassette sockets). A lot of the basics like pliers and Allen keys can be bought MUCH cheaper though.
Also: many of the park tools can last you a lifetime. The cheap tools last maybe a few years, at most 10-20. Often they break when using them for the third time
The basic park chain tool CT-5? Thats $29, not worth it when you can get the proper CT-3.2 for $10 more. Seems like its actually on sale for less than the CT-5 right now.
I've been putting some of these tools in and out of my AliExpress cart over the last month and hesitated to buy any of these. I now know what to do, thank you very much, Seth!
Seth can we get a nonsense guide to bike service! Just a brief overview of what you need to do to your bike to keep in ideal riding condition please and thanks :)
I've learned that what my Dad told me as a kid was accurate. Don't waste your money on cheap tools. So . . . I never have. I own good quality tools. My kids will inherit good quality tools. They may not know what they're for or how to use them, but . . .
My dad was so cheap,if the doctors told him both my kidneys needed to be replaced, he would have argued "HE DON'T NEED BOTH,HE DON'T EVEN DRINK YET". He always bought the best coat,and boots he could for us without question and always swore that for the price of stitches,you could have bought a quality tool twice.
My dad told me the same thing. He was not much of a mechanic though. Had more of the farmer I can do it with what I have mentally. Now he borrows my tools. 😅
As a user of that cheap chain tool for years, actually it would work better after the fences has broken. Yes, I had to align it manually but now there is no width restriction. To keep the chain from moving, I pinch it using the screw-with-a-hole from the opposite side of the pin pusher. The pin can then still slide through the hole. It is not perfect, but good enough for once in a while chain length adjustment. We can even unscrew the handle, align it with the main body to reduce its foot print, hold everything with rubber band, and voila, now I can take it with me on my EDC kit without taking up much space. As for the masterlink plier, there is actually an even cheaper one. It is basically thick metal wire bent in a particular way, kind of like the letter V with some curves in the middle of the arms. I got it for half a dollar. No moving parts (does flex count as moving?). Lightest and cheapest tool I ever have.
My strategy across many different hobbies is to have a quality set of tools in the garage I use most of the time, but then prefer to have a "good enough' version in a travel kit, truck kit, etc. but such that I can keep those kits intact and where they belong vs. needing to remember to move a tool from one kit to another. I have a decent set of needle nose pliers (either standalone or part of a Leatherman style multitool) in my shop, on my ADV motorcycle, in my dirt bike pack, in my truck, in my bike pack, kitchen (😆), etc.
I love that he’s showing off that you can do this with cheap tools but something he needs to add with that as a PB blaster. I’ve taken a part a lot of old bikes and I’ve messed up a lot of bikes because they get rusty parts of been on there for 30 years, they don’t wanna come off.
I have every single one of these and they work extremely well and they are priced for the south east asian market so for americans it is "cheap" but here in SEA the prices are more or less average for a bike tool
Same, though I personally think the square tapered bottom bracket remover and chain link remover is extremely garbage. Unless the square bottom bracket isn't seized, it won't work properly just because it wobbles everytime. The chain link remover is so hard to use cause it's so small lmao
@@andrei-desu5361 Yeah... I'd also recommend a box wrench because it can't slip. I found a BB tool, cassette and crank puller and I can use all 3 with one 24mm wrench.
I upgraded the drivetrain on a Giant Talon 3, which was the only bike that I could find during the plague, from a 2x8 to a 1x12 using reasonably priced tools from Amazon. Even my repair stand came from there. They worked flawlessly and I did not have to spend Park Tool money. Oh, and the bike is now my favourite bike, after it got a new Rockshox fork. I ride it more often than my Trek Fuel EX8, which finally showed up after waiting 8 months and my Giant TCR road bike. It would have been easier to pay someone to do the work for me, but I learned a lot and am now totally proficient at looking after my own bikes and will tackle any job.
I like how u do your stunts yourself. Very nice script on the gloves and safety glasses recommendation front. And super low key not rubbing it in my face 😁
I have THE EXACT tool set and ive sucsessfuly dissassembled and assembled two of my bikes twice with them The tools are rough ngl but they did their job
When removing and installing external bottom brackets you should you a plastic bag over it to prevent scratching. Also on square taper it's so worth it to get a long bolt that threads into the spindle and use washer and spacers to hold it in place to you Crack it open
Yeah, but on tools that have sharp jagged edges on the teeth it's going to take some pretty thick plastic to keep the tool from just cutting right through
I have almost that same colorful hex wrench set packed into my on-bike tool kit that goes with me everywhere. I think having a few decent smaller cheap tools like this to carry on a ride is worth way more than the multi-tools in terms of usability. The multi tools are compact, but they suck to use if you really break something and need some more full size options. That's where the ali-express army of cheap and compact tools really shine. They aren't the greatest, but they do the job at a larger size and easier handling than a multi-tool will, which to me makes trailside repairs much easier and more enjoyable when you're not fighting with the tools.
When I was younger we made all sorts of remarkable bikes from the local dump. No one had specialist tools. We made do with what we had. There were some injuries but no one died!! Make cycling fun again!!❤
Flip bike has been a godsend for useful and detailed fixing tips! Also, possible to dramatically improve most of these tools with a needle file and some sandpaper. Not ideal but great on a budget.
i have a question is it the whole mtb industry or only your channel dead i mean previously you used to gain lot and lots of views in a single day but these days its not the same
Whole cycling industry became extremely popular during lockdown, for obvious reasons, and has now experienced a massive drop off in popularity with the return of life to normal, again, for obvious reasons. A few of us will be here watching & riding bikes no matter what though ;)
So many variables: UA-cam algorithms change often, UA-cam home feed and suggestions to viewers change constantly, there are so many creators out there now (bunch of supply), and this is Seth's second channel (which still gets very good viewership). Just because every video isn't a million plus views doesn't mean a channel is dead. 100k+ views on every video is incredible, plus that happens on both channels. The consistency of viewership is a big deal in conjunction with the longevity of this channel. He's still in the game after years and that's super respectable
11:12 yes, you did that wrong. :D The chain must be on the other "fence". Then you tighten the side with the small black screw until the chain can no longer come out. Now you can push out the pin with the other side. My tool definitely works with 12s chains.
Well the BB tool presented at min 4:20 can easily be hacked and be made just as goos as the expensive one. Just get to a grinder and shave off about 2 millimeters of it so you have the splines engage the nut better. 😁 😅 figured that is worth mentioning since i am here since the Seth’s bike hacks era😝.
I spent 8 years as a community bike shop mechanic. I showed my husband how to rebuild his wheels when we started dating. If you have a good community bine shop near you, they can be awesome for knowledge and tool access. Also one of my best moments was smacking myself in the face with a pedal when I was checking for a squeak.
I have those same masterlink pliers in the toolkit I take on rides. Super compact and they do exactly what they're supposed to. Nice to learn what that piece of wire is for, though - I've never realized its purpose previously. Great video as always, Seth!
Hi Seth. on 10:58 for the chain breaker tool, you have to put the chain closer to the side of the moving handle that screws inward. It can break chains from 9 speed onwards. It would be difficult to break a 6-7-8 speed chain.
Crankpullers used to all be like that before Park came along, we used to stick a penny in there to stop the spindle going into the threrads. So glad tool shave come along way since those days.
This is a great overview - I can recommend using chain whip for car oil filter removal - they often much better quality than cheap one for bicycles. Also from the tools I'd recommend to buy more expensive are hex keys (I've destroyed many bolts with cheap ones), and nipple key (but that has already been mentioned - especially for aluminium nipples). At some point I've bought a Park Tool cutter for both wires and housings and my life got much better :) - they do make a difference.
I actually have the first chain tool mentioned where he had issues getting it to fit. It worked great on my 12 spd. Also it did not bend like the second one did.
I have many budget tools for my tool kit and most work just ok. However, as I've gotten older and more experienced as a bike maintainer (mainly for my bikes and friend's bikes when they need assistance), I have selectively replaced certain tools. Love the content, it's all super entertaining and extremely helpful!! Can I suggest a future video (How to properly size a chain for MTB, Gravel, 1X, 2X, etc.)?
My only bike specific tools are amazon special cassette lock socket, crank bolt socket and bb tool. Chain whip? I just use an length of old chain and vice grips.
I have most of these and I can recommend the bb/chain whip for removing centerlock rotors if you want to have bloody palms again and as a plus you'll have a thin threaded ring on your hub 👍👍
I still remember some of your first videos when you were using tools like this or just whatever you had around the house lol. You’ve come a long way, man.
In Europe we get for around 30$ a pretty decent tool set,which includes chain tool,crank puller,pedal wrench,set of hex,tools for shimano hollowtech,chain whip,cassette tool and probably more.I bought this set of "Lidl" and use it for years
When I was setting up a MTB tool box, harbor freight was my best friend. You can get a lot of good basic stuff there for cheap, and then you can get your other more specific stuff elsewhere.
Definitely do this again! Maybe next time bump the budget up to a reasonable 50 dollars. Also a Harbor Freight edition would be pretty cool if you have one near you
I have a set of the Risk link splitters. I keep them in my saddle bag. Perfect size for occasional use. Actually a lot of the Risk stuff is good. Their sealed bearing headsets are very good.
I have a cheapo bottom bracket tool like in the video, but I got around the loose engagement by using a washer and bolt to secure the tool to the spindle. That way you don't need to hold it in place.
The child labor joke was appreciated lol
That was NOT a joke. That's just the truth... lol(not sure why I'm laughing lol)😬😅🙃
Hey, those kids gotta eat.
Probably the same child labor as the stuff with a brand name on it.
Well.. we can disagree, but in those poor countries, they only have 3 choices; working in a factory, working as a prostitute and just starving. I guess the first choice isn’t so bad 😶
"It's possible a child made these tools" 💀💀
never change seth
😂😂😂😂
Sadly, Park Tools are most likely made by the same child. They are made in China as well but to a higher standard. However, probably not a 5 to 10 times higher standard. Got to pay for that name and all the promotions they run.
First laugh of the day goes to Seth
@@explorenakedpark tool is great tho, I have only a couple of tools from them one being a Allen multi tool that’s lasted me years and I’ve had a crankbrothers I’ve had for 3 months and already rusting and torx piece is already twisted, park tool hasn’t rusted and I keep them in the same area
I was sipping coffee when he said that and almost spit it on the screen 😂😂😂
The affordable tools that you CAN recommend follow-up is a really good idea. I look forward to that.
Harbor freight everything.
Buy your last tool first. Buy crap and you’ll never stop buying. How much are your knuckles worth?
Same. Maybe do a couple of videos with a $100 toolkit and a $200 toolkit etc then a comparison video.
@@kellybrooks9899 I agree completely, and that's how I operate but it would be an interesting video.
@@kellybrooks9899 That kind of depends... How much work on bikes are you going to do? If you're just getting a tool to work on your own bike that you may only occasionally use and it's something hyper specific to bikes I don't really see the point of getting the expensive great one. If it's something like a socket set that you'll use for all kinds of things in the future then absolutely buy a nice one.
You know what I love, a channel that goes backwards. Gets big, gets real sponsors, and then in like "Nope" I'm going back to Ali Express bike part reviews.
Rock on.
Seth is a real one through an through... He really gives the people what they want
11:20 this tool actually works. You need to put the chain in the middle opening and tight the end cap screw to hold it in place. I have one of this and it gets the job done.
Thank you!!! You’re the first person in the comments I’ve seen mention this, and it drove me absolutely insane. I’ve used a near identical tool across 3 different bikes with zero issue.
For some reason his chain appears not to fit inside that opening. Different chain width i guess?
Though i know that shouldn't be happening.
11:22 I bought the exact same tool probably 9 years ago as a broke 15 yo and I'm still using them. Yes 11 and 12 chains dont fit onto the 'fence' but you can still push the joint with the pin in there and it will work flawless. dont forget to wiggle out the old pin off the tool otherwise you cant push another one out of a chain.
My recommendation is to buy cheap tools at first and then replace the ones that wear out or break/cause damage with something higher quality. There is no need for most people to have Park Tool everything. Having said that, if you can afford high quality tools it makes working on the bike much more enjoyable. That means you'll probably work on your bike more, which in turn might lead to less money spent on parts and/or shop repairs. I would always recommend getting the highest quality allen/hex wrenches you can afford though right out of the gate, as these will be by far your most used tool on any modern bike.
Absolutely agreed on all points! If I find myself using a tool enough to upgrade to the /luxury/ version of it, i usually demote the affordable and still working tool to a spare toolset or travel kit. Donating to a tool library or making a toolkit for a friend or neighbor are my go-tos with larger tools or anything I genuinely no longer need.
With very few exceptions, selling common off-the-shelf tools doesn't even pay for the effort of listing them and answering messages, but the small roll of basic hand tools you give away might get a friend back on their bike or to the grocery store or in the park with their kids. Local bike co-ops and cycling groups also do giveaways and community events and are always thankful for tools and parts in good shape!
I don't understand why people always recommend to buy cheap tools first and then replace when they are broken or worn out.
At least for common hand tools that doesn't make much sense to me.
Take the $8 hex-wrenches for example. You can buy decent ones for around $25.
With the cheap ones at best you will be able to use them for a few years and hopefully they wont break just at the moment when you need them the most. And then you go out and buy a decent set. So now you spend $33, had to pause your project and wasted quite a bit of time.
Or you could just spend $25 right now and have a tool that will outlast you.
The only time where it makes sense to buy cheap tools is when you just want to use them once or twice (or when you can't afford anything else right now). But non of the tools in this video fall into that category.
So you want to spend more money on tools than you actually need to if you buy some more expensive quality tools to begin with? What you are saying is that everyone should use twice as much money on tools for their bike instead of buying tools that never break. Remember that it is cheaper in long term to buy good quality tools that lasts for many years or even decades compared to buying cheap useless tools that are broken after you have used it one or two times.
Some tools you only need once or twice. I agree with the original comment about buying cheap rarely used tools. If you wear them out using them more than you thought you would, definitely upgrade.
But something like allens or whatever that would be used frequently, definitely spend some money the first time. I’m sure most of us have experienced the pain caused by cheap allens.
(Even though the expensive one is what almost cost our boy Seth an eyeball) 👁️ 😉
@@jasonbecker4997 No i dont use my bike tools only one or two times, i use all the tools i have for fixing my bikes frequently and therefore i buy good quality tools to begin with instead of buying crappy low quality tools that dont work or is broken after its being used one or two times. I have never bought cheap tools for working on my car or my bikes and i will never do it either just because i dont waste my money on low quality tools. Of course you can do it but it will be more expensive to buy low quality tools first and then upgrade to tools that actually works and have good quality to begin with.
The small bit of wire to hook on the chain is one of those insignificant tools that actually helps so much in a bike shop when you’re doing it dozens of times in a row. We made ours out of bits of broken spokes.
Same, I saw a bike mechanic with a piece of spoke bent into that shape almost 10 years ago. I made my own and it has come in handy so many times. Now with clutched MTB derailleurs I don’t have to use it as much.
My Pedro's chain wear checker has one of those built in, it is super handy.
I have a bike tool that came with one too. Had it for years before I knew what it was for.
I have that Topeak chain breaker that also ha
s that little piece of wire in. It is handy, but it is in my on bike toolkit, so I never bother grabbing that when working on the bike at home. Including it with the master link tool makes more sense, although it is disappointing that it seems the tool doesn't store the wire on the tool like the topeak chainbreaker does. So I'd be afraid to lose it into the depths of my toolbox. That little tool would be perfect if it had that feature.
E: now that I mention it: Topeak Super Chain tool it's called. It's not super cheap, but also not super expensive. Might be a candidate for the actual recommended budget tools list.
You can use a lace from your shoes in a pinch.
I love that you kept that allen wrench launching into your face in there, safety glasses my friend. You never know when a tool will become a balistic missle heat seeking your eye😂
Yep, that's why I almost always wear at least some glasses when doing anything with a lot of force on a bike
Good news is UA-cam has tutorial videos on what to do if you puncture an eye..
100% this. I foolishly decided to use some cheap chinesium wire flush cutters on... brake cable...! one of the blades launched itself at my face and missed my eyeball by 5mm. literally hit my lower eyelid. so yeah. don't cut steel cable with cutters rated for copper! in fact just expect catastrophic failure with any tools made from purest chinesium
I just set my hands in the direction they need to go in and turn away lol. Either that or I break out the 8ft breaker bar we've got in the shop. (Cross threaded bb's aren't so bad with infinite leverage)
Keeping a firm grip on the tool and pulling instead of just pressing on it helps, too.
It's great to know you acknowledge that not everyone can afford a 1000$ tool set from the big blue, for home mechanics! It is a good idea to share what would be a good, affordable solution! Keep going!
for vernier calipers, you can buy mitutoyo... if it's just for home, you can use the very cheap version and is equipped with a digital display
Love the foreshadowing,
” Tighten the thing with no limit “
10mm said: You sure about that? 🤣🤣
Man, I know it has nothing to do with the content, but I wanna say your videos helped me A LOT with my depression and autistic crysis. Thank you very much, you seem to be a very nice person.
I think grinding the end of the bottom bracket tool would create more contact surface and it would be more usable. Great video, thank you!
similarly using some fine sandpaper on some sharp edges would make the tools feel better and make them scratch things less. But then I've never been someone who worries about scratching work surfaces - the bike is for using not putting on a pedestal.
being a mechanic and having a ton of tools, i enjoy all sorts of tool videos. I own tools from all over the place, from cheap stuff from the jungle site to high dollar tool truck stuff, for me it boils down to how much i will use a tool and if a higher dollar more precise tool is needed. some stuff its worth spending the coin and getting a good quality tool, other things, the cheap stuff does just fine, especially for occasional use.
The bane of my existence when I was 12 working on bmx bikes in my garage was cutting brake cables and housings, so amazed years later when I got a job at a shop and cut them like butter with park cutters
the hole in the back of the crank puller is actually a 14mm "socket", you can put a wrench on it and use it to remove the bolts that push the crank into the spindle, this is really useful because usually you cant get an adjustable wrench to fit there.
Here in the UK we have a store called Halfords that can be found in most towns/ cities. They do a 43pc bike tool kit for £60 ($74) that is pretty comprehensive and good quality. Only thing it doesn't come with is the pliers, but they sell those separately for not a lot of money.
Be pretty easy to save that amount in repair shop visits by having the basic tools and giving it a go yourself!
Just don’t buy the bikes from there…
Why not?
@@michaelgharib9028horrible at assembling bikes and aftercare plus not the best quality bikes. Decathlon is the best budget brand for bikes here or local bike shops if you can afford it.
Halfords advanced range are amazing tools for the money. Not tried their bike stuff yet though.
Crivit "makes" (I think there multiple brands selling the same set from the same factory) I think a similar toolset for LIDL that is similar quality, as you described it, in a handy hard plastic case. I've seen similar cases in other supermarkets on temporary deals too, though I can only vouch for the crivit.
@@RenAiguI bought that set a couple of weeks ago, seems alright but I haven’t had to use it in anger yet
It is worth mentioning that for the needle nose pliers you can probably get a very good quality set of non mtn bike specific pliers for less than the park tool one if your on a budget
When I bought my first "modern" (compared to what I had in the 90s) MTB 2 years ago, I had no idea of axle standards. So I ended up getting one with QR standard, without knowing what kind of a deadend this is - I only noticed when I looked for more sturdy wheels with QR and microspline hub during black friday, I found basically no BF deals and generally only a very limited (and quite pricey, in particular compared to the price of the bike) selection.
In particular in the ~1000€ bike price segment, QR is still surprisingly common.
I can only warn any beginner to not get distracted by high spec components (like XT derailleur and brakes in my case) and rather buy a more future proof frame and fork with boost standard.
hey man, just as a heads up, thru axle adapters! so far i only seen them on aliexpress (by a brand called muqzi, great experience with thier stuff) but i suppose other people make them as well. they're a piece of machined aluminium that you can use to convert any thru axle wheel into quick release. (obviously not the other way around) and they are cheap too! about a tenner in the world's biggest currencies. give them a look if you want to keep a perfectly good bike on the trails.
A LOT of value condensed into this video. I can't believe I never knew how to use my crank puller. Thank you! You just got yourself another subscriber ;)
With cheap bb tools or really stuck bbs you can get a bolt and run it through the tool into the bb spindle. It will lock the tool in place while getting it free. Then you take the bolt out and finish getting the cup out.
also, i think some bb cups (thinking old raceface) used a tapered edge on the tool.
The Toopre BB tool on AliExpress looks like it's available with a bolt for that (similar to the Pedro's version) -- haven't specifically used that tool from them, but their other stuff has worked pretty well.
Most of those BB tools come with a bolt. I'm surprised the one he got didn't.
You can also take that tool to a belt sander, and square off the teeth.
If you're in the US, you might also want to pick up a Harbor Freight generic tool kit as well. I picked up a SAE/Metric allen t-handle set for around $20
0:05. thats why you wear safety glasses
10:20 Seth suddenly with blood on his chin, bleeding being very realistic for an amateur working with the cheapest possible tools! He is here with us
And he got the cut while using the more expensive tools.
The crankpuller would work far better if you just grease all threads/moving parts.
The chain tools might work fine up to a 8 or 9 speed chain, which is ok for a tuneup of an old bike.
The bottom bracket tool should have come with a screw to fix it through the center.
Please test some of the bike-multitools out there!
I have run through a lot of cheapo chain tools, they all eventually break or bend. Park is the the only way to go here, it's literally a night and day difference.
Hey Seth, the little rotating cap on the end of the crank puller is not so that the tool doesn't mar the spindle, it's so that the tool doesn't bind and instead spins freely when you wind it in - reducing the force needed to remove the crank arm. ✌
I bought a pair of park tools cable cutters, and they are the nicest tool I own.
Yes, they are nicer than my air compressor.
bike cable cutters is one tool when you just must splurge on something good, even if everything tou have is cheap crap from
Ali.
They also last for ever. I build 40 bikes a week and still have the same pair for 5 years now and still cut amazing
A good bypass cable cutter that actually cuts rather than smash is a GAME CHANGER. Must buy.
Same here, I hardly ever need it but when you do it makes the whole process so much easier and enjoyable, now the magnetic cable router that I cuss at a lot. 🤣
Yep I hvae a balance of tools from some good Park tool cutters and Spline tool (BB, cassette) to having some Bikehand items and some no name stuff, like head set press.
Enjoyed this, thanks
Most older/cheap chain breakers have driving pins that are too big for 11 and now 12 speed chains. I figured this out when the 7 year old multitool in my bag was too big to fit my 11 speed XTR/Ultegra chain.
Makes sense honestly considering that the time when they were made, and also the people that probably buy them, won't be having a 11/12 speed bike anyway.
6::53 Just makes my day! And the squeaky sound makes it complete I'm in tears 😂
Its hilarious that every tool in the "$30" set of tools looks EXACTLY the same as mine
I felt something alike. A chain breaker I even bought at an actual bike shop.
I certainly recognised the chain tool and now I'm slightly concerned it's too big for my 12 speed chain. I've never tried since I bought it for my old 8x3 set.
@KindredBrujah I used it with some success. Some have a counter screw. The pin bends fairly easily and can't be ordered as a spare part. When I have to crack a chain, I make sure it's well lubricated, wd40 or something thin. That helps some.
but made of softer metal
With a bunch of these cheap tools and your videos, I offered free bike repair on Camp Arifjan, Kuwait during my 2017-18 deployment. I fixed a lot of bikes, even completely building a few wheels. All they had was cheap Dynacraft stuff there or some other big box bikes, so I was kept busy.... but learned a lot and honed my skills. I still have and use the tools!!! Oh, but I found you can never go cheap on a chain breaker like that. They all break. Name brand or nothing. I've been a professional mechanic (auto/hvy truck) for 30 years, so I do know what you're talking about with good tools though.
I really like RISK cycleing parts and tools. They sell all kinds of things.
[RISK , Professional Bicycle Part (Riding Is My Life)].
I got a tapered headset, titanium skewer through axle quick release,
Headset removal tool, master link pliers, internal cable housing kit, titanium M6 bolts for rear disc break rotor, titanium valve caps. I think that's all I have from that company. I like RISK 👍. Need to get more to test out. Like there ceramic jockey wheels, sealed bearing in ceramic/ Titanium/ Steel. Good luck.❤
Hey Seth,
You're the realist Guy out there! Testing cheap stuff, but when it's succsesfull you say it! Every young Kid out there who's shredding, going trough some struggle while finding the right Tool for the right Part of the Rig!
I Wish i had you're Vids Back in Time ❤
Much Love ! Keep up the good Work
Greetz from Germany ❤
Grind that bottom bracket bearing tool down so the teeth at the end are not sloped anymore
But with what? A machine that's ten times as much as all the products in the video?
@@sp00n You can grind it down on a concrete paving stone or something.
Also you can buy a cheap angle grinder for like 20$.
@@sp00n almost everyone has angle grinder, or even hand saw
A child made the tools and now it's come full circle. sweet. the cycle of life.
Oh, I got it.
Check the wrenches for size!!
If they are off they will round your bolts, especially the small ones
Also if they're too soft, they will wear our really quickly and can then damage the bolts
These are the types of videos I enjoy from you.
Park has a basic chain tool that's very cheap and very functional. It's not NICE to use, but it works and doesn't destroy itself. Park has a few tools that are actually affordable and worth buying (including that BB tool and the cassette sockets). A lot of the basics like pliers and Allen keys can be bought MUCH cheaper though.
Also: many of the park tools can last you a lifetime. The cheap tools last maybe a few years, at most 10-20. Often they break when using them for the third time
Best way for a absolute beginner to get a chain tool is to buy a reputable multitool from a good company that includes one, and use that.
The best cheap chain tool is a motorcycle chain tool with a resized pin - it’s 2-3 USD online. It’s damn heavy, though.
REALISTIC, even park tools wear over time, so they don't last forver
The basic park chain tool CT-5? Thats $29, not worth it when you can get the proper CT-3.2 for $10 more.
Seems like its actually on sale for less than the CT-5 right now.
I've been putting some of these tools in and out of my AliExpress cart over the last month and hesitated to buy any of these. I now know what to do, thank you very much, Seth!
Seth can we get a nonsense guide to bike service! Just a brief overview of what you need to do to your bike to keep in ideal riding condition please and thanks :)
Thank you. These videos are important to any new cycling enthusiasts young or old. Love your channel👍
I've learned that what my Dad told me as a kid was accurate. Don't waste your money on cheap tools. So . . . I never have. I own good quality tools. My kids will inherit good quality tools. They may not know what they're for or how to use them, but . . .
Realistically if your kids are the type to use tools, they'll have had their own for 30 years before it comes time to inherit anything.
@@mitrovarr Definitely. My Dad has a toolbox full of decent tools, but I've already bought most of what I need (also all decent tools).
Very true
My dad was so cheap,if the doctors told him both my kidneys needed to be replaced, he would have argued "HE DON'T NEED BOTH,HE DON'T EVEN DRINK YET". He always bought the best coat,and boots he could for us without question and always swore that for the price of stitches,you could have bought a quality tool twice.
My dad told me the same thing. He was not much of a mechanic though. Had more of the farmer I can do it with what I have mentally.
Now he borrows my tools. 😅
As a user of that cheap chain tool for years, actually it would work better after the fences has broken. Yes, I had to align it manually but now there is no width restriction. To keep the chain from moving, I pinch it using the screw-with-a-hole from the opposite side of the pin pusher. The pin can then still slide through the hole. It is not perfect, but good enough for once in a while chain length adjustment. We can even unscrew the handle, align it with the main body to reduce its foot print, hold everything with rubber band, and voila, now I can take it with me on my EDC kit without taking up much space.
As for the masterlink plier, there is actually an even cheaper one. It is basically thick metal wire bent in a particular way, kind of like the letter V with some curves in the middle of the arms. I got it for half a dollar. No moving parts (does flex count as moving?). Lightest and cheapest tool I ever have.
that's gotta hurt
Tinitigan ko
Nilapitan ko
Miss ko na siya.
The $8 Oumers chain tool has worked really well for me, used it on everything from 9 speed to 12 speed chains.
My strategy across many different hobbies is to have a quality set of tools in the garage I use most of the time, but then prefer to have a "good enough' version in a travel kit, truck kit, etc. but such that I can keep those kits intact and where they belong vs. needing to remember to move a tool from one kit to another. I have a decent set of needle nose pliers (either standalone or part of a Leatherman style multitool) in my shop, on my ADV motorcycle, in my dirt bike pack, in my truck, in my bike pack, kitchen (😆), etc.
I love that he’s showing off that you can do this with cheap tools but something he needs to add with that as a PB blaster. I’ve taken a part a lot of old bikes and I’ve messed up a lot of bikes because they get rusty parts of been on there for 30 years, they don’t wanna come off.
I have every single one of these and they work extremely well and they are priced for the south east asian market so for americans it is "cheap"
but here in SEA the prices are more or less average for a bike tool
If I have to choose one though the hex wrenches are by far my favourite among all these
Same, though I personally think the square tapered bottom bracket remover and chain link remover is extremely garbage. Unless the square bottom bracket isn't seized, it won't work properly just because it wobbles everytime. The chain link remover is so hard to use cause it's so small lmao
@@andrei-desu5361 The BB tool usually comes with a bolt to keep it in place.
@@iddra1868 ah... thats why lol idk why mine doesn't have one
@@andrei-desu5361 Yeah... I'd also recommend a box wrench because it can't slip. I found a BB tool, cassette and crank puller and I can use all 3 with one 24mm wrench.
I upgraded the drivetrain on a Giant Talon 3, which was the only bike that I could find during the plague, from a 2x8 to a 1x12 using reasonably priced tools from Amazon. Even my repair stand came from there. They worked flawlessly and I did not have to spend Park Tool money. Oh, and the bike is now my favourite bike, after it got a new Rockshox fork. I ride it more often than my Trek Fuel EX8, which finally showed up after waiting 8 months and my Giant TCR road bike. It would have been easier to pay someone to do the work for me, but I learned a lot and am now totally proficient at looking after my own bikes and will tackle any job.
hey Seth i love your content hope you are doing well i have a bike that i am looking to get rid of and i was wondering if u knew what i should do
Look for a local bike co-op or a local shop may know best
I like how u do your stunts yourself. Very nice script on the gloves and safety glasses recommendation front. And super low key not rubbing it in my face 😁
I have THE EXACT tool set and ive sucsessfuly dissassembled and assembled two of my bikes twice with them
The tools are rough ngl but they did their job
The risk chain pliers is a life saver. Had mine for years and it works every time.
When removing and installing external bottom brackets you should you a plastic bag over it to prevent scratching. Also on square taper it's so worth it to get a long bolt that threads into the spindle and use washer and spacers to hold it in place to you Crack it open
Yeah, but on tools that have sharp jagged edges on the teeth it's going to take some pretty thick plastic to keep the tool from just cutting right through
I have almost that same colorful hex wrench set packed into my on-bike tool kit that goes with me everywhere. I think having a few decent smaller cheap tools like this to carry on a ride is worth way more than the multi-tools in terms of usability. The multi tools are compact, but they suck to use if you really break something and need some more full size options. That's where the ali-express army of cheap and compact tools really shine. They aren't the greatest, but they do the job at a larger size and easier handling than a multi-tool will, which to me makes trailside repairs much easier and more enjoyable when you're not fighting with the tools.
crivit bike tool kit is really good for price
First chain tool works but you need to backup the black screw to adjust the width.
@00:50 We didn't want to know that, but OK😅
When I was younger we made all sorts of remarkable bikes from the local dump. No one had specialist tools. We made do with what we had. There were some injuries but no one died!! Make cycling fun again!!❤
Me to, visited the local dump for all sorts of bike frame and parts and built-up bikes using plyers he he. BTW I'm 71 so it was a long time ago!
That's what my tools look like lol, they do fine for doing home repairs
I don't own a bike or anything bike related but love watching your content 👍🏽
You must be the only bike mechanic without a Knipex pliers wrench! Adjustable wrenches are so 2008 ;)
Flip bike has been a godsend for useful and detailed fixing tips!
Also, possible to dramatically improve most of these tools with a needle file and some sandpaper. Not ideal but great on a budget.
i have a question is it the whole mtb industry or only your channel dead i mean previously you used to gain lot and lots of views in a single day but these days its not the same
Whole cycling industry became extremely popular during lockdown, for obvious reasons, and has now experienced a massive drop off in popularity with the return of life to normal, again, for obvious reasons.
A few of us will be here watching & riding bikes no matter what though ;)
@@FendergodGamingidk I feel like that child labor joke was pretty edgy 😄
So many variables: UA-cam algorithms change often, UA-cam home feed and suggestions to viewers change constantly, there are so many creators out there now (bunch of supply), and this is Seth's second channel (which still gets very good viewership). Just because every video isn't a million plus views doesn't mean a channel is dead. 100k+ views on every video is incredible, plus that happens on both channels. The consistency of viewership is a big deal in conjunction with the longevity of this channel. He's still in the game after years and that's super respectable
It was literally posted 30 minutes ago...
This is also his secondary channel. Not sure if you’re comparing the primary channel to the secondary?
These quick link pliers are nice, looks like a good idea to buy one. The smaller size is handy for the on the go repairs!
Never buy cheap tools,they'll never last...Ha!
11:12 yes, you did that wrong. :D
The chain must be on the other "fence". Then you tighten the side with the small black screw until the chain can no longer come out. Now you can push out the pin with the other side. My tool definitely works with 12s chains.
A GOOD tool is not cheap and a cheap tool is not good.
Well the BB tool presented at min 4:20 can easily be hacked and be made just as goos as the expensive one.
Just get to a grinder and shave off about 2 millimeters of it so you have the splines engage the nut better. 😁
😅 figured that is worth mentioning since i am here since the Seth’s bike hacks era😝.
5:23 use the half inch drive with a low powered impact. Much harder to misalign when you are not muscling it.
I spent 8 years as a community bike shop mechanic. I showed my husband how to rebuild his wheels when we started dating. If you have a good community bine shop near you, they can be awesome for knowledge and tool access. Also one of my best moments was smacking myself in the face with a pedal when I was checking for a squeak.
A well spoken lady.
How could he resist?
my advice to anyone who would use the crank puller is to grease up the threads nicely and the end cap too so it won't be as hard to use
Good on you Seth for leaving the slipping off the crank nut. Holy ! That park tools steel has flex and elastic ness 😂
I have those same masterlink pliers in the toolkit I take on rides. Super compact and they do exactly what they're supposed to. Nice to learn what that piece of wire is for, though - I've never realized its purpose previously. Great video as always, Seth!
Hi Seth. on 10:58 for the chain breaker tool, you have to put the chain closer to the side of the moving handle that screws inward. It can break chains from 9 speed onwards. It would be difficult to break a 6-7-8 speed chain.
Crankpullers used to all be like that before Park came along, we used to stick a penny in there to stop the spindle going into the threrads. So glad tool shave come along way since those days.
This is a great overview - I can recommend using chain whip for car oil filter removal - they often much better quality than cheap one for bicycles. Also from the tools I'd recommend to buy more expensive are hex keys (I've destroyed many bolts with cheap ones), and nipple key (but that has already been mentioned - especially for aluminium nipples). At some point I've bought a Park Tool cutter for both wires and housings and my life got much better :) - they do make a difference.
I actually have the first chain tool mentioned where he had issues getting it to fit. It worked great on my 12 spd. Also it did not bend like the second one did.
I had it too and the fin snapped off :)
I have many budget tools for my tool kit and most work just ok. However, as I've gotten older and more experienced as a bike maintainer (mainly for my bikes and friend's bikes when they need assistance), I have selectively replaced certain tools. Love the content, it's all super entertaining and extremely helpful!! Can I suggest a future video (How to properly size a chain for MTB, Gravel, 1X, 2X, etc.)?
My only bike specific tools are amazon special cassette lock socket, crank bolt socket and bb tool. Chain whip? I just use an length of old chain and vice grips.
Keeping it real. It’s what I like about your show.
I have most of these and I can recommend the bb/chain whip for removing centerlock rotors if you want to have bloody palms again and as a plus you'll have a thin threaded ring on your hub 👍👍
Am I a bad person for laughing when the wrench hits you in the face? Thanks for the sacrifice!!
Love the safety squint when vicing the cable housing. Haha
I love these kind of videos can you please keep making more
0:53 😂😂😂 this was great
Thanks for this video, I hope this becomes a series!
I still remember some of your first videos when you were using tools like this or just whatever you had around the house lol. You’ve come a long way, man.
amazing series ! please continue !!!
In Europe we get for around 30$ a pretty decent tool set,which includes chain tool,crank puller,pedal wrench,set of hex,tools for shimano hollowtech,chain whip,cassette tool and probably more.I bought this set of "Lidl" and use it for years
Thanks for the great budget tools demo. Very helpful.
When I was setting up a MTB tool box, harbor freight was my best friend. You can get a lot of good basic stuff there for cheap, and then you can get your other more specific stuff elsewhere.
Use thin rag or paper towel in between cheap tools and parts, KEEPS IT SNUG & SCRATCH FREE 💯
Definitely do this again! Maybe next time bump the budget up to a reasonable 50 dollars. Also a Harbor Freight edition would be pretty cool if you have one near you
2:23 always pull tools toward you, never push away
Damn, when Seth gets hit in the face with the tool. I have never related to anything more in his vids lolol
The cheap crank puller is good for stubborn cranks. Because you can put an impact driver in the end.
I have a set of the Risk link splitters. I keep them in my saddle bag. Perfect size for occasional use. Actually a lot of the Risk stuff is good. Their sealed bearing headsets are very good.
I have a cheapo bottom bracket tool like in the video, but I got around the loose engagement by using a washer and bolt to secure the tool to the spindle. That way you don't need to hold it in place.