Wow... I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab with what looks to be the exact issue. The hose on the right is hot, the hose on the left, ice cold. Two years ago I had issues and thought it was something else. I replaced the thermostat and when that didn't resolve the issue, I fell victim to the "pull the HVAC fuse" thing to recalibrate the actuators. For some reason, the heat started working as expected. Here we are again 2 years later with the same issue. I'm convinced this has something to do with the heater core OR the hoses at this point. I'm "hoping" there is a clog in the hose. and not an issue with the core itself. Will look to flush this thing out and provide an update. Great work explaining the primary issue you were having.
It works on all settings granted I don’t have ac cause compressor is locked up My heat blows but it’s not like run you out the truck hot it’s just warm
I don't leave comments unless it's something that really helped me. Man this is a damm good video, I checked all the things you had mentioned, I would've never thought to check the actuator for the temp control. Your video saved me days of work... THANK YOU keep up the good videos 😀
We didn't have heat in my mom's 2001 Silverado 1500 4x4. She took it to the repair shop and he replaced the cabin air filter and that fixed it. The filter had never been changed and was completely clogged with mold.
Seriously, I liked this video like 40 seconds in, didn't even care if it was gonna fix my car, still hopeful but damn, people from NC are cool AF! =) Love the characters of this country!
Holy shit man, this gave me the knowledge and confidence to do this to my truck because it had the same symptoms!!! Got that hot heat again. Ty for the clear procedure Subbed 👍
Brother you definitely helped with my issue, but even if i didn’t thankful for finding your channel. Please continue to make videos this world needs more genuine common sense leader ship. Much love big bro
I want to buy you a beer. Couldn't get any heat to blow, so after watching your video here, I felt my heater lines, and they both seemed hot...well, one was hotter than the other, but I separated them anyway. Pulled the two blend motors I could reach, and they seemed to work just fine. I go back into the engine and notice that one is hot while the other is mild. Long story short, I was over a gallon low on antifreeze, which explained why when I was driving, the heater worked. It just didn't work while sitting idle. Anyway, thank you again. Great reminder to check the easy stuff first.
That same hose isn’t really hot on my that’s after diving to work. Just barely warm air. My actuator for recirculating air is broke making that clicking sound. I managed to get my hand in there to unplug it. Just get fresh air setting now. Water pump and thermostat fairly new. Going to check the hoses for sure. Thanks for this video. It also confirmed what I suspected the temp actuator.
Our WJ Jeep GC has no heat coming into the cab. Everything else is fine regarding coolant/thermostat/hoses/blend doors/hvac unit, etc as I've swapped them out or repaired as necessary. I will be trying this trick out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip- you got the smarts as I see it.
I know ima few years late- injust wanna say you sir seem to be a real rare breed. Just a good ol boy likes working on cars but the rare breed part you seem like a humble mechanic; two words i dont expect to see together. Not a lot of humility in the auto industry unfortunately. Anyways .. if you still working on cars and still checking these comments...i gotta question for ya bud. 2002 nissan frontier xe 3.3 v6 non sc... flushed cooling system over past summer popped the 10mm bleeder off the intake let sit overnight and su re enough good coolant flow indicating systems bled according to the repair manual. Ok cool- FF to these recent 15 ° days and temp gauge rides uo half way like it should im getting 100° on top H.C. hose at firewall and about 90-93° on the bottom. Now- when shes warm, no matter idle or revving driving whatever when i turn the heat on shes nice and warm i will turn on the heat and nice and warm air for all of 10seconds then back to cold...wait just a min turn back on nice and warm few seconds back to cold etc. Either sitting still or moving same deal .... tried burping on an incline nothn same deal. If ur still there man id appreciate your feedback.
Appreciate you, sounds like the water pump is weak and not pushing it up there fast enough to keep warm, had a jeep 10+ years ago that would do the same
@@Boostismyfriend man I wish I could post a video on the thread... I've posted on the 1st Gen frontier fb page and Noone has a clue of this....almost whirring noise whining at idle through the 1st 3000 revolutions. Last year, Crippled from a motorcycle accident kinda hard to do what I could do... I've been meaning to pull the belt and feel for play on the waterpump pulley... only thing is a- guy I bought the truck from last year claims to have changed timing belt and water pump(not so sure I believe him) and b> no leaks from weep hole.. or anywhere...however, the motor does seem to run a bit on the hot side although without over heating... my upper rad hose is at about 125 ° while 5he lower is at about 70? No idea if that's normal or not....all I know is the internet has got volumes of guys claiming that these things (frontiers) are very well known for their shotty cooling system bleeding procedure about lifting front end letting engine get to temp with radiator and reservoir caps off til rad boils/bubbles over then refilling before replacing cap... Man I sure do appreciate you responding to me!
I had a squealy noise like that on my '99 Tahoe and it turned out to be the idler pulley. I also happened to be coming up on belt replacement time. I went to Autozone for my new belt and spring tensioner pulley. What I came away with also included the idler pulley. Once I got the old one off I could feel some reluctance when I hand rotated the pulley. I believe one could/should be able to get it apart if you want to change the bearing. With all that running in the hot engine environment I don't feel too bad about replacing parts made of plastic as they can be prone to getting brittle over time. I do the 100K replacement schedule on those parts and so I don't get an eventual seizure of pulley components.
Brother ive not actually flushed mine yet but from watching this video id say ill have it working tomorrow but id have to say i couldve watched this even if i didnt have an issue at all,😂😂😂😂. Ill update this tomorrow and let you know if it werks. Im sure ill have to replace an actuator also because I get air movement through events from my heater but it’s like my defrost. Don’t get much movement at all so I’m sure I’ll have to replace an actuator also but I definitely say it’s my Hosier heater. Cord is clogged just keeping me from getting good heat. We used to temp Gunn on my hoses and one line was half of thedegree is the other one I think my one hose was running just say 90 and the other one was running probably about 30 something degrees so yeah I’ll update this and let her know how it goes. Thanks brother.
@@Boostismyfriend well no update yet, weather isnt being my friend and it was like 16 degrees out today and usually i work in the barn on cold days but cant run a heater in there for the hay, but its supposed to be in the 40s next week so ill have to update then.
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 it loses antifreeze but doesn't leak, you can smell it when I turn on the heater but I don't know where's it going. You think the cap for the reservoir?
@@mrpresident5186 if you can smell it, you losing it in the heater core box, or is the quick connect at the firewall, it’s hard to see but very common, check the passenger side floor and see if it’s wet
I have a 2000 Silverado LT with the 5.3 motor and The A/C works great . But starting last year the Heat stopped working . I looked at the 2 actuators on the bottom and they both seem to work . I didn't know about the 3rd one behind the glove box but it seems to be working as well . The Local shop wants $ 150.00 to FLUSH the Heater Core . I would do it myself but I don't have anyplace to work on it . I had a New Water Pump put on it 4 years ago . That shop is now Closed (they got a Class action Lawsuit againest them for Shawdy Work . LOng story . All I needed was a new water pump and a belt . They said they did that and without asking put two new Idaler Pullys on it , A new Fan Clutch and Fan and Oh Ya a New Alternator and my $ 350.00 bill ended up at $ 1785.00 . In the lawsuit I got all but $ 235.00 back . I miss having my own shop ...
I have a 05 duramax both lines going into the heater core are cold. My temp is right below the second notch doesn't go over I have no idea what it could be
So I did these steps wiggles my left hose and it started to heat up then took out the cabin filters which were caked in mud and boom got some heat looking at my temp gauge it never goes past half way no matter how long the truck is running. Any idea on what that could be also my rpm will go low then back up while I warm up the truck after it gets to where the gauge stops moving the idle goes back to normal. It’s currently avg of 50 degrees in Texas idk what it could be
@@Boostismyfriend will do before I change out heater core also any idea on what could cause the rpm to go up and down from like 400 to 1800 rpm until it’s operating temp it feels like it wants to die almost like it’s not getting enough air or fuel but then goes normal
I got an 03 s10, i still got heat. But it blows a bunch of "smoke" when I apply any sort of heat. Damn near was blinded trying to defrost my windshield on my way to work this morning. Any ideas?
01 silverado1500 Heat when on the gas, little to no heat at idle. No leaks, faint smell of antifreeze. Both heater core hoses hot, upper radiator hose hot, lower hose warm at best. Truck not overheating at all. No air pockets. Has me scratching my head, Any thoughts. Heater core on this is a pain.
@@Boostismyfriend ok i see. I have similar issue almost exact like your video. But the hose that was cold on the video u made its not cold its a little warm and not as hot as the other. Ill look into it and see. Awsome video by the way. Helping me alot as i try to diagnose the issue.
Let let me ask you this my bottom radiator hose on my 2005 Chevy Tahoe is cold should that be normal even during these cold days we're having? FYI I have put two thermostats in it it is getting up the temperature heats good temperatures good
@@Boostismyfriend my Sierra don't have that fancy cover though its just blower motor fan and resistor ..I replaced those thinkin that would fix it and nothing no air..then i got a new control panel and it lights up nice still no air ..then someone from AutoZone said it's the relay the one that bolts to the firewall and i can't find it i took out the glovebox and I see heater coil but can't see the relay
Lol, figure I double down on the 99-06 crowed, o made a 15min how to remove a heater core in one, that thing has crazy views, it made $275 in the last 30 days lol
Such a great job with the camera and lighting. How do you do it? My heater knob, all the way to the right, only gives me warm air. Both hoses are warm. Time to try the other options you suggest. Not so important here in SoCal but I remember, when I wanted it, my heat would get wicked hot. :-) Thanks a lot!!
I have a 99 Tahoe. The heater blows cold air. Both heater hoses feel cold. The temp gauge stays at the cold position. The engine does not overheat. What are some reasons?
Look like I had more than one problem. I replaced the thermostat. Now both lines are hot and the gauge works. However, I still have no heat. Now it can only be a bad switch or the blend door isn't working. Your thoughts?@@Boostismyfriend
@@magnumrush probably blend door, you can turn the car on , air on low, then cycle hot to cold to hear of the motor moves, if it clicks it has a stripped tooth, if it dont move it bad or the control is bad
@@Elmmaker the really orange/ brownish that came out around 11:11 mark before the water turns clear is the blockage, the fins in the core are super small and rust from the block plugs it off
I have a ford fusion 2015 se 1.5 l. one night my heater was working and then i got home and the car was off for about 5 hours. Then i went out and the Heat wasnt working. The two lines to the core are hot. It blows cold air when on the cold side and hot side. Can you please let me know if you have any idea ?
That's exactly what I needed to know. My left hose is cold and the right one hot. I'm a female trying to learn not so complicated fixes. Because I can6afford a machanic if I can do it. So my question is it possible I could do this? Please someone answer me and help. Let me mention sometime very little I can get the heat on just by turning it to hot level with no other knbs turned on. When I put it on defrost it blows hot air I'm so confused but sometimes not ofter hot will come bnb out bbn of all the vents. DO YOU HAVE AN ANSWWER FOR ME PLEASE?
@@Boostismyfriend yes it is it will run you out it gets so hot. Thank you for answering. I need help I like to have froze going to gville,fl from Lake city. I wish your friend was closer Florida people don't want to help unless they charge an arm in leg. Thank you for or having a knowledgeable friend
@@marywoods6283 if you have hot heat out hr defrost but not out the vents, more then likely its the controller inside, if it was a blend door it wouldn’t have heat at all
The left black hose under the hood stays cold right one is hot. So I thought I take it off and see if it plugged but I don't want to brake something and have a worse problem
Hello, just wanted to say this is a great video. I didn't catch how to remove the pipes their to flush them? Someone please help. I'll have to show my 14 yr old son these steps, dad just walked away from us & I can't afford to pay a mechanic right now
GREAT video! I have a different problem I can't solve. Brand new thermostat, brand new temp sensor, gauge is good in cluster but about 5 minutes after I start my suburban, the temp gauge creeps up to the max. Diagnostic shows engine is cycling at 195 degrees (thermostat spec). Any clue why I can't get a good reading on the cluster? Thank you in advance y'all! (1999 Chevy Suburban, 5.7, 2WD)
Hey dude I've got a 2002 Gmc z71 I just hooked the heaterbcore lines back up after months of just running them together and bypassing my heater. Well my windshield is fogging up instantly when I turn the heater on. Well I don't have any water on my floorboard and my defrost vents to face vent actuator isn't working. Would that cause steam? You can smell antifreeze in the cab too
@@Boostismyfriend Well that depends on what you are answering 'Yes' to: If you meant; 'did hooking back up the hoses' cause the steam, then yes; If Randy Boudreaux meant would the mode (defrost - face) not working cause steam, then definitely no. If you smell hot antifreeze, then almost certainly your heater core (or the plastic(?) elbow connectors) are leaking. The lost fluid can be draining out the AC drain. Are you loosing coolant? (adding once and a while?). Is there water (coolant) on the ground near the passenger footwell/firewall area? I don't know if the heater box has to be pulled to reach the elbows and internal hoses. I know the heater core does. If so, then you'll have to go in either way. [EDIT; I think I got my vehicles mixed up, regarding connections INSIDE the heater box. It looks like these trucks have just the heater core inside, the spouts sticking out are part of the core (one-piece). Somewhere I thought I saw a vehicle that had two short hoses INSIDE the box, and another fitting exiting the box at the firewall., or maybe I just interpreted a poor illustration at some point...] I have some off-the-wall thoughts, but I don't know what help these would be: Having the bypass fittings, if you bypass it again; you could use water or air, or soap bubbles to help find the leak. Probably useless idea because you'd still have to get at it to fix it. If you do play with this, be warned that any significant pressure above 15psi applied to the heater core will likely split it open. If you had one leaky part, you could damage any other good components. (perhaps to know what part(s) to order before tearing it apart maybe?) Just my random thoughts LOL
Hey, haven’t researched it yet but do you have to remove the middle/floor console to take out the dash and replace the heater core? 2004 Tahoe with center/floor console…I assume so
@boostismyfriend I have to replace my actual blend door on my truck. the bottom of the door is rounded off where it goes into the actuator. 2001 sierra. Will i have enough room to split the HVAC Box open if i do it the same way as you did in the Yukon heater core replacement video you did? Or will i have to pull the whole box out and split it open on the bench? Thanks any info would be great if you have experience with something like that.
Duuude....I have watched about 20 videos like this and your video was the only one that went thru the entire thought process and really helps people understand how things work and how to fix. Subscribed. Greetings from Ohio! Let's go Brandon! Lol
I had trouble with mice in my 2500 and they were in the heater box preventing the blend door at the bottom from moving. After trying to get access to that door with no luck I went and drilled a 1" hole at the bend in the duct to the right of the door. Sure enough it was filled with mice nests and dead mice. Pulled most of it out with a stiff wire with a hook bent at the end and sucked the rest out with a shop vac. Plugged the hole with a removable 1" freeze plug because mice are everywhere and they will get in there again I'm sure.
@@Boostismyfriend it has a new water pump the previous owner did not long ago but idk if it’s been flushed I’m doing new intake gaskets soon to fix knock sensors I’ll do a flush then
Dont over look it because someone replaced it, i bought dead battery’s before, pull one of the heater core hoses off, crank it and see if water shoots out if its does change the thermostat, if it doesn’t inspect the lines for a blockage, if all is well replace the pump
@@Boostismyfriend ok I’ll look into I bought a new thermostat to put in it as well while I’m in there changing stuff also my ac controls do the typical scrolling up but numbers go down or up and down thing
Man I have 2007 Chevy Tahoe.. no lights on the heater module… when I am driving and the car warms driver side blows hot passenger side blows cold.. any idea.
Thank you for your insight! I replaced the hoses to the heater core and now I am having similar issues: inside hose is warm, outside hose is hot, losing coolant but no leaks/puddles in the driveway and the temperature gauge doesn’t over heat but runs hot and fluctuates while driving and stopping…the passenger side floorboard has some wetness too. I hear the aviators moving but heat works sometimes and sometimes it doesn’t…thoughts?
Already back flushed my heater core many times to free it up and get heat working again. It worked great up until the other day. The heater core popped and now I have to pull the dash. Ugh
You need to be careful about water pressure and it it can blow your heater core apart. City water is usually at about 60-65 PSI. You can get a fitting from a hardware store that reduces the water pressure from the hose to 25 PSI. Then you can crank the water from the hose and let it flush away.
If the temp hand stays reading warm then it would be the waterpump, if the hand reads warm then going down the road it go’s to cold as you lose the heat, it be the thermostat
Man, I respect that you went through all the possible steps needed to effectively diagnose the issue.
@@RichardHooker-n1k appreciate you
Best video I’ve watched this year. Saved me an entire Saturday.
Awesome
Dude, you saved me countless hours and quite a few dollars replacing something that didn't need to be replaced. Thank you!!!
@@satanekfarm awesome
Man this video saved me from replacing my heater core 10/10 video, Thank you
Awesome
Wow... I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab with what looks to be the exact issue. The hose on the right is hot, the hose on the left, ice cold. Two years ago I had issues and thought it was something else. I replaced the thermostat and when that didn't resolve the issue, I fell victim to the "pull the HVAC fuse" thing to recalibrate the actuators. For some reason, the heat started working as expected. Here we are again 2 years later with the same issue. I'm convinced this has something to do with the heater core OR the hoses at this point. I'm "hoping" there is a clog in the hose. and not an issue with the core itself. Will look to flush this thing out and provide an update. Great work explaining the primary issue you were having.
Awesome, flush and back flush the core, make sure them hose can dont have a blockage, if everything good, swap the waterpump
I have heat on driver side but not passenger.
Passenger side blend door actuator is probably broken
Man I've been driving with no heat for a week and after watching your video flushed my heater core and "BAM" got heat ! Thanks man
Awesome
@@Boostismyfriend I have heat but it’s not super hot and does not blow very hard? Could this be a solution to try ?
Thermostat, does the fan work on all setting or does it quit?
It works on all settings granted I don’t have ac cause compressor is locked up
My heat blows but it’s not like run you out the truck hot it’s just warm
@@Boostismyfriend and both of my hoses are warm so no blockage would replacing the blower motor help mines noisy?
One of the better how too videos I've seen,thanks for showing clearly how to do what you did
@@stanwelch144 appreciate you
I don't leave comments unless it's something that really helped me.
Man this is a damm good video, I checked all the things you had mentioned, I would've never thought to check the actuator for the temp control. Your video saved me days of work... THANK YOU keep up the good videos 😀
That’s awesome
We didn't have heat in my mom's 2001 Silverado 1500 4x4. She took it to the repair shop and he replaced the cabin air filter and that fixed it. The filter had never been changed and was completely clogged with mold.
Damnnn
Seriously, I liked this video like 40 seconds in, didn't even care if it was gonna fix my car, still hopeful but damn, people from NC are cool AF! =) Love the characters of this country!
Appreciate it
Gotta love the all knowing UA-cam commenter. Great video! Huge help for me.
Thanks
Holy shit man, this gave me the knowledge and confidence to do this to my truck because it had the same symptoms!!! Got that hot heat again. Ty for the clear procedure Subbed 👍
I appreciate it
Same here - TY!
@MatthewFischer-qn6db awesome
Where are you located? I want to bring my suburban to you
Brother you definitely helped with my issue, but even if i didn’t thankful for finding your channel. Please continue to make videos this world needs more genuine common sense leader ship. Much love big bro
I appreciate that!!
I want to buy you a beer. Couldn't get any heat to blow, so after watching your video here, I felt my heater lines, and they both seemed hot...well, one was hotter than the other, but I separated them anyway. Pulled the two blend motors I could reach, and they seemed to work just fine. I go back into the engine and notice that one is hot while the other is mild. Long story short, I was over a gallon low on antifreeze, which explained why when I was driving, the heater worked. It just didn't work while sitting idle. Anyway, thank you again. Great reminder to check the easy stuff first.
Awesome
Bro I really appreciate this video. I’ve watched several n this is the most detailed. About to try this now…God bless u man..
I appreciate you watching!!
My '99 Suburban just got a new radiator and still no heat. I'm going to try your method and flush my core and see what happens! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome let me know how it does
Best video on YT for sierra heater problem thanks bro
Awesome, i appreciate you watching
That same hose isn’t really hot on my that’s after diving to work. Just barely warm air. My actuator for recirculating air is broke making that clicking sound. I managed to get my hand in there to unplug it. Just get fresh air setting now. Water pump and thermostat fairly new. Going to check the hoses for sure. Thanks for this video. It also confirmed what I suspected the temp actuator.
Make sure its full of coolant and the radiator cap is sealing
Our WJ Jeep GC has no heat coming into the cab. Everything else is fine regarding coolant/thermostat/hoses/blend doors/hvac unit, etc as I've swapped them out or repaired as necessary. I will be trying this trick out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip- you got the smarts as I see it.
👍
Great. No rockNroll noise. Except for the Carolina accent it was perfect. 5 stars.
Very good instructional video for dumbies like me; helped a bunch. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
I know ima few years late- injust wanna say you sir seem to be a real rare breed. Just a good ol boy likes working on cars but the rare breed part you seem like a humble mechanic; two words i dont expect to see together. Not a lot of humility in the auto industry unfortunately. Anyways
.. if you still working on cars and still checking these comments...i gotta question for ya bud. 2002 nissan frontier xe 3.3 v6 non sc... flushed cooling system over past summer popped the 10mm bleeder off the intake let sit overnight and su re enough good coolant flow indicating systems bled according to the repair manual. Ok cool- FF to these recent 15 ° days and temp gauge rides uo half way like it should im getting 100° on top H.C. hose at firewall and about 90-93° on the bottom. Now- when shes warm, no matter idle or revving driving whatever when i turn the heat on shes nice and warm i will turn on the heat and nice and warm air for all of 10seconds then back to cold...wait just a min turn back on nice and warm few seconds back to cold etc. Either sitting still or moving same deal .... tried burping on an incline nothn same deal. If ur still there man id appreciate your feedback.
Appreciate you, sounds like the water pump is weak and not pushing it up there fast enough to keep warm, had a jeep 10+ years ago that would do the same
@@Boostismyfriend man I wish I could post a video on the thread... I've posted on the 1st Gen frontier fb page and Noone has a clue of this....almost whirring noise whining at idle through the 1st 3000 revolutions. Last year, Crippled from a motorcycle accident kinda hard to do what I could do... I've been meaning to pull the belt and feel for play on the waterpump pulley... only thing is a- guy I bought the truck from last year claims to have changed timing belt and water pump(not so sure I believe him) and b> no leaks from weep hole.. or anywhere...however, the motor does seem to run a bit on the hot side although without over heating... my upper rad hose is at about 125 ° while 5he lower is at about 70? No idea if that's normal or not....all I know is the internet has got volumes of guys claiming that these things (frontiers) are very well known for their shotty cooling system bleeding procedure about lifting front end letting engine get to temp with radiator and reservoir caps off til rad boils/bubbles over then refilling before replacing cap...
Man I sure do appreciate you responding to me!
Thanks Doc. Mannnn you save me from pulling that heater core out.
@@craigsmith6086 awesome
I had a squealy noise like that on my '99 Tahoe and it turned out to be the idler pulley. I also happened to be coming up on belt replacement time. I went to Autozone for my new belt and spring tensioner pulley. What I came away with also included the idler pulley. Once I got the old one off I could feel some reluctance when I hand rotated the pulley. I believe one could/should be able to get it apart if you want to change the bearing. With all that running in the hot engine environment I don't feel too bad about replacing parts made of plastic as they can be prone to getting brittle over time. I do the 100K replacement schedule on those parts and so I don't get an eventual seizure of pulley components.
👍
First clip I watched said nine times out of 10 that fitting will break. Sure enough I knew he wasn't lying
@@ellawns793 💪👍👍👍
Brother ive not actually flushed mine yet but from watching this video id say ill have it working tomorrow but id have to say i couldve watched this even if i didnt have an issue at all,😂😂😂😂. Ill update this tomorrow and let you know if it werks. Im sure ill have to replace an actuator also because I get air movement through events from my heater but it’s like my defrost. Don’t get much movement at all so I’m sure I’ll have to replace an actuator also but I definitely say it’s my Hosier heater. Cord is clogged just keeping me from getting good heat. We used to temp Gunn on my hoses and one line was half of thedegree is the other one I think my one hose was running just say 90 and the other one was running probably about 30 something degrees so yeah I’ll update this and let her know how it goes. Thanks brother.
Let me know
@@Boostismyfriend well no update yet, weather isnt being my friend and it was like 16 degrees out today and usually i work in the barn on cold days but cant run a heater in there for the hay, but its supposed to be in the 40s next week so ill have to update then.
You already know when they got that southern accent, they know what they doin.
Lol,
I love this comment
I like your video you take time to explain everything I like that
Appreciate you watching
Thank you for showing us how to do this! Great video!!!
I appreciate you watching
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 it loses antifreeze but doesn't leak, you can smell it when I turn on the heater but I don't know where's it going. You think the cap for the reservoir?
@@mrpresident5186 if you can smell it, you losing it in the heater core box, or is the quick connect at the firewall, it’s hard to see but very common, check the passenger side floor and see if it’s wet
I have a 2000 Silverado LT with the 5.3 motor and The A/C works great . But starting last year the Heat stopped working . I looked at the 2 actuators on the bottom and they both seem to work . I didn't know about the 3rd one behind the glove box but it seems to be working as well . The Local shop wants $ 150.00 to FLUSH the Heater Core . I would do it myself but I don't have anyplace to work on it . I had a New Water Pump put on it 4 years ago . That shop is now Closed (they got a Class action Lawsuit againest them for Shawdy Work . LOng story . All I needed was a new water pump and a belt . They said they did that and without asking put two new Idaler Pullys on it , A new Fan Clutch and Fan and Oh Ya a New Alternator and my $ 350.00 bill ended up at $ 1785.00 . In the lawsuit I got all but $ 235.00 back . I miss having my own shop ...
Damn it,
That was great I appreciate it so the heater core doesn't have to leak if it's bad
Thanks
Best advice yet bro thanks
Appreciate you
Great video with easy instructions!
👍👍
Definitely love the video brother most definitely helped & good to know one of the best videos & detailed thanks bro
I appreciate you
@@Boostismyfriend Np keep up the great work brother 👏 💪
thanks it help alot, you are good guy to that homeless guy a job!!!
Appreciate it
What’s the part to the left of the hoses to the heater core the canister looking thing.? Mines making a humming noise on startup
Accumulator
Do u have a video on how to put that dash and everything back together without reversing the removal video
I dont
Your awesome for sharing your knowledge brother! Now I have a good starting point and hopefully get some heat back..
Your welcome
"Your"?
Thanks for your tips!! What happens when there is no pressure in the hot hose?
Radiator cap is not sealing off
which blend door on 94 silverodo requires to remove dash to b removed
ua-cam.com/video/Gxxe7ZKfeIQ/v-deo.htmlsi=LQTMJRZ7FWshYNDQ
I have a 05 duramax both lines going into the heater core are cold. My temp is right below the second notch doesn't go over I have no idea what it could be
Flush the lines and the core, if that dont fix it replace the thermostat
Thanks. Now I can flush system and go from there
Great
So I did these steps wiggles my left hose and it started to heat up then took out the cabin filters which were caked in mud and boom got some heat looking at my temp gauge it never goes past half way no matter how long the truck is running.
Any idea on what that could be also my rpm will go low then back up while I warm up the truck after it gets to where the gauge stops moving the idle goes back to normal. It’s currently avg of 50 degrees in Texas idk what it could be
Half way on the gauge is normal, if the heat isn’t very hot its probably the water pump not circulating fast enough
Yea that’s what I was told but it isint half way it like 2-3 lines below half
@@BRED23 try replacing a thermostat first
@@Boostismyfriend will do before I change out heater core also any idea on what could cause the rpm to go up and down from like 400 to 1800 rpm until it’s operating temp it feels like it wants to die almost like it’s not getting enough air or fuel but then goes normal
@@BRED23 vacuum leak or dirty throttle body
I got an 03 s10, i still got heat. But it blows a bunch of "smoke" when I apply any sort of heat. Damn near was blinded trying to defrost my windshield on my way to work this morning. Any ideas?
What does it smell like?
@@Boostismyfriendantifreeze
01 silverado1500
Heat when on the gas, little to no heat at idle.
No leaks, faint smell of antifreeze.
Both heater core hoses hot, upper radiator hose hot, lower hose warm at best.
Truck not overheating at all.
No air pockets.
Has me scratching my head,
Any thoughts.
Heater core on this is a pain.
Water pump
Good video man, so what did you find was restricting the flow in the hose that you replaced?
I never seen it come out, I junked the hose after the firing broke
So where was it clogged? I didnt see where the issue was. The hose that was cold , was that the issue?
Yes there was a blockage inside
@@Boostismyfriend ok i see. I have similar issue almost exact like your video. But the hose that was cold on the video u made its not cold its a little warm and not as hot as the other. Ill look into it and see. Awsome video by the way. Helping me alot as i try to diagnose the issue.
Let let me ask you this my bottom radiator hose on my 2005 Chevy Tahoe is cold should that be normal even during these cold days we're having? FYI I have put two thermostats in it it is getting up the temperature heats good temperatures good
Yes It should be cool
how do you replace the relay for the blower motor under the dash?
It bolts on right next to the blower motor
@@Boostismyfriend ok ..do i have to tear out my whole dash to get to it?
I work on Guitars I am not a mechanic
You dont, you have to pull 3 bolts out the cover on the very bottom, then there should be a plug to unhook and remove 2 more screws
@@Boostismyfriend my Sierra don't have that fancy cover though its just blower motor fan and resistor ..I replaced those thinkin that would fix it and nothing no air..then i got a new control panel and it lights up nice still no air ..then someone from AutoZone said it's the relay the one that bolts to the firewall and i can't find it i took out the glovebox and I see heater coil but can't see the relay
@matt Harvey no not yet i got a feeling this is going to be a nightmare
Hey bro I have an extended start issue going on I triple checked everything fuel wise and leak down tested still extended start
Have you done a tune up?
Good job with your video buddy!!!
Thanks
Step one for checking heat..... take to boostismyfriend! Lol
Lol, figure I double down on the 99-06 crowed, o made a 15min how to remove a heater core in one, that thing has crazy views, it made $275 in the last 30 days lol
Such a great job with the camera and lighting. How do you do it? My heater knob, all the way to the right, only gives me warm air. Both hoses are warm. Time to try the other options you suggest. Not so important here in SoCal but I remember, when I wanted it, my heat would get wicked hot. :-) Thanks a lot!!
Probably the blend motor missing a tooth
I get a clicking noise when my knob on the right is all the way to the left/upper vents. Probably inside the dash then??@@Boostismyfriend
@@donswords6671 correct
I have a 99 Tahoe. The heater blows cold air. Both heater hoses feel cold. The temp gauge stays at the cold position. The engine does not overheat. What are some reasons?
Sounds like a bad thermostat
That's what I was thinking. It's probably
stuck open.@@Boostismyfriend
Look like I had more than one problem. I replaced the thermostat. Now both lines are hot and the gauge works. However, I still have no heat. Now it can only be a bad switch or the blend door isn't working. Your thoughts?@@Boostismyfriend
@@magnumrush probably blend door, you can turn the car on , air on low, then cycle hot to cold to hear of the motor moves, if it clicks it has a stripped tooth, if it dont move it bad or the control is bad
Thx for this video, was much helpful
Awesome
So what was the issue? When you flushed the core nothing came out and had great flow....
@@Elmmaker the really orange/ brownish that came out around 11:11 mark before the water turns clear is the blockage, the fins in the core are super small and rust from the block plugs it off
@@Boostismyfriend Ah! I guess I figured it would be something solid like a clot.. haha
I have a ford fusion 2015 se 1.5 l. one night my heater was working and then i got home and the car was off for about 5 hours. Then i went out and the Heat wasnt working. The two lines to the core are hot. It blows cold air when on the cold side and hot side. Can you please let me know if you have any idea ?
If the lines are hot and the air is cold, going to be a blend door actuator
That's exactly what I needed to know. My left hose is cold and the right one hot. I'm a female trying to learn not so complicated fixes. Because I can6afford a machanic if I can do it. So my question is it possible I could do this? Please someone answer me and help. Let me mention sometime very little I can get the heat on just by turning it to hot level with no other knbs turned on. When I put it on defrost it blows hot air I'm so confused but sometimes not ofter hot will come bnb out bbn of all the vents. DO YOU HAVE AN ANSWWER FOR ME PLEASE?
Is it hot hot heat on defrost?
@@Boostismyfriend yes it is
@@Boostismyfriend yes it is it will run you out it gets so hot. Thank you for answering. I need help I like to have froze going to gville,fl from Lake city. I wish your friend was closer Florida people don't want to help unless they charge an arm in leg. Thank you for or having a knowledgeable friend
@@marywoods6283 if you have hot heat out hr defrost but not out the vents, more then likely its the controller inside, if it was a blend door it wouldn’t have heat at all
The left black hose under the hood stays cold right one is hot. So I thought I take it off and see if it plugged but I don't want to brake something and have a worse problem
Hello, just wanted to say this is a great video. I didn't catch how to remove the pipes their to flush them? Someone please help. I'll have to show my 14 yr old son these steps, dad just walked away from us & I can't afford to pay a mechanic right now
There a quick connection, you push in on the hose, squeeze the 2 ears then pull out to get it loose
So my feed should have coolant running through it instantly?
With in a second or 2
The Warmer heater hose is always the feed
GREAT video! I have a different problem I can't solve. Brand new thermostat, brand new temp sensor, gauge is good in cluster but about 5 minutes after I start my suburban, the temp gauge creeps up to the max. Diagnostic shows engine is cycling at 195 degrees (thermostat spec). Any clue why I can't get a good reading on the cluster? Thank you in advance y'all! (1999 Chevy Suburban, 5.7, 2WD)
You have another temp sensor, driver side head next to the manifold, its solo for the cluster, the 2 wire is for the computer
Thank you boss!
Just subbed thanks for the video 😁✌
Thank you for subbing
Hey dude I've got a 2002 Gmc z71 I just hooked the heaterbcore lines back up after months of just running them together and bypassing my heater. Well my windshield is fogging up instantly when I turn the heater on. Well I don't have any water on my floorboard and my defrost vents to face vent actuator isn't working. Would that cause steam? You can smell antifreeze in the cab too
Yes
@@Boostismyfriend Well that depends on what you are answering 'Yes' to:
If you meant; 'did hooking back up the hoses' cause the steam, then yes;
If Randy Boudreaux meant would the mode (defrost - face) not working cause steam, then definitely no.
If you smell hot antifreeze, then almost certainly your heater core (or the plastic(?) elbow connectors) are leaking. The lost fluid can be draining out the AC drain. Are you loosing coolant? (adding once and a while?). Is there water (coolant) on the ground near the passenger footwell/firewall area?
I don't know if the heater box has to be pulled to reach the elbows and internal hoses. I know the heater core does. If so, then you'll have to go in either way.
[EDIT; I think I got my vehicles mixed up, regarding connections INSIDE the heater box.
It looks like these trucks have just the heater core inside, the spouts sticking out are part of the core (one-piece).
Somewhere I thought I saw a vehicle that had two short hoses INSIDE the box, and another fitting exiting the box at the firewall., or maybe I just interpreted a poor illustration at some point...]
I have some off-the-wall thoughts, but I don't know what help these would be:
Having the bypass fittings, if you bypass it again; you could use water or air, or soap bubbles to help find the leak. Probably useless idea because you'd still have to get at it to fix it.
If you do play with this, be warned that any significant pressure above 15psi applied to the heater core will likely split it open. If you had one leaky part, you could damage any other good components. (perhaps to know what part(s) to order before tearing it apart maybe?)
Just my random thoughts LOL
Hey, haven’t researched it yet but do you have to remove the middle/floor console to take out the dash and replace the heater core? 2004 Tahoe with center/floor console…I assume so
You do
did you fix your heat?!
@boostismyfriend I have to replace my actual blend door on my truck. the bottom of the door is rounded off where it goes into the actuator. 2001 sierra. Will i have enough room to split the HVAC Box open if i do it the same way as you did in the Yukon heater core replacement video you did? Or will i have to pull the whole box out and split it open on the bench? Thanks any info would be great if you have experience with something like that.
To replace the door your going to have to pull the dash and separate the box
@@Boostismyfriend I appreciate ya! Thanks for the reply and videos
Duuude....I have watched about 20 videos like this and your video was the only one that went thru the entire thought process and really helps people understand how things work and how to fix. Subscribed. Greetings from Ohio! Let's go Brandon! Lol
Awesome, I appreciate you
Thank you so much for posting this video, you are greatly appreciated, a great help... Thanks again sir.👍
Appreciate you
My heater worked great till I put a new water pump and radiator in it now it blows cool air should I try this method ?
Take the top hose loose at the radiator and back fill it, then re install, warm it up and top off the jug
my heater hoses appear to have the AC lines going to it that burn to the touch when the truck is running. No heat. No AC
@@Juise187 is the fan blowing
@@Boostismyfriend Not sure which fan youre referring to but both the Radiator fan and climate blower work.
@@Boostismyfriend Heater core must be blocked though. Takes forever to get any heat.
@@Juise187 does your temp gauge go up half way? Thermostat will cause it to take a long time to get heat if it’s stuck open
@ It eventually goes up to half 205 f or so, but once I turn on the heater, it drops 100 degrees or so
This was good step by step!
Appreciate it
It really worked.. thanks for the video.
Awesome, appreciate you watching
Thanks a lot dude I really do appreciate
👍
So was it a blocked hose or the heater core ?
Most the time heater hose
Hi , what hose connection did you use
www.northerntool.com/products/lisle-a-c-fuel-line-disconnect-tool-model-37000-112583?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&Google_LIA&Automotive%20%3E%20Automotive%20Repair%20Tools%20%3E%20Specialty%20Tools&Lisle&ogmap=SHP%7CLIA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C856744486%7C42214677983&gbraid=0AAAAADpPfbPP2te51yWAEemwdAcccqpaQ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pLjm9_7gQMV5zfUAR2gew5mEAQYBCABEgIaSvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I had trouble with mice in my 2500 and they were in the heater box preventing the blend door at the bottom from moving. After trying to get access to that door with no luck I went and drilled a 1" hole at the bend in the duct to the right of the door. Sure enough it was filled with mice nests and dead mice. Pulled most of it out with a stiff wire with a hook bent at the end and sucked the rest out with a shop vac. Plugged the hole with a removable 1" freeze plug because mice are everywhere and they will get in there again I'm sure.
Dang
Thank you so much bro I really appreciate you.
Appreciate you watching
I’ve got a 05 tahoe defrost works good and front will have heat for a bit but gradually gets cool and rear never has heat
I would change the water pump snd flush the system
@@Boostismyfriend it has a new water pump the previous owner did not long ago but idk if it’s been flushed I’m doing new intake gaskets soon to fix knock sensors I’ll do a flush then
Dont over look it because someone replaced it, i bought dead battery’s before, pull one of the heater core hoses off, crank it and see if water shoots out if its does change the thermostat, if it doesn’t inspect the lines for a blockage, if all is well replace the pump
@@Boostismyfriend ok I’ll look into I bought a new thermostat to put in it as well while I’m in there changing stuff also my ac controls do the typical scrolling up but numbers go down or up and down thing
Tahoes with the digital controller had issue as well
Hell yeah from Georgia thanx
@@soulbrother3299 appreciate you watching
Can someone help me same with video only thing use liquid copper and pepper I think have clogged heater core front
Back flush it
Excellent! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you
Man I have 2007 Chevy Tahoe.. no lights on the heater module… when I am driving and the car warms driver side blows hot passenger side blows cold.. any idea.
The climate control is known to go bad
Thank you! Seems like a lot of Chevy Trucks from that era all have the same problems.
Yep
"heat so hot it run you out the car now" lol great video
Awesome
WoW i gotta try that i have the same Problem great vid bro u the man bro Thanks new sub 💪💪
Appreciate it
Thanks brother. Where in NC are you from?
Lincolnton
what if both of my hoses are cold? it has plenty of coolant in the system
Waterpump aint circulating like it should
@@Boostismyfriend 10-4 easy enough fix thanks
What's the squeaking noise? My navigator making that exact noise
It could be Belt worn out, could of gotten oil or water on the belt or a pulley going bad
Thanks bro
What if i did all this and the hose is still cold and low heat?
Heater core is stopped up
@Boostismyfriend is it worth trying to flush again? I pulled the hose and started it and got some junk even after I had water flowing clean each way
Thank you for your insight! I replaced the hoses to the heater core and now I am having similar issues: inside hose is warm, outside hose is hot, losing coolant but no leaks/puddles in the driveway and the temperature gauge doesn’t over heat but runs hot and fluctuates while driving and stopping…the passenger side floorboard has some wetness too. I hear the aviators moving but heat works sometimes and sometimes it doesn’t…thoughts?
Sounds like the heater core leaking
@@Boostismyfriend I have the same issue does the heater core just need to be replaced?
Yep
Hi. La Boyd did u resolved your problem if u did let me know what was the problem thanks.
My heater blows cold air, could this fix it ?
Yes
Already back flushed my heater core many times to free it up and get heat working again. It worked great up until the other day. The heater core popped and now I have to pull the dash. Ugh
Dang
@@Boostismyfriend yeah not looking forward to it haha
You need to be careful about water pressure and it it can blow your heater core apart. City water is usually at about 60-65 PSI. You can get a fitting from a hardware store that reduces the water pressure from the hose to 25 PSI. Then you can crank the water from the hose and let it flush away.
👍👍
What if it doesn't heat while idling, but as soon as you start driving it heats up?
If the temp hand stays reading warm then it would be the waterpump, if the hand reads warm then going down the road it go’s to cold as you lose the heat, it be the thermostat
Hate those 3 way tees on these trucks, I sneezed doing a rear evap on one of these and lo and behold fitting was leaking 😆
👍
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks
@@Boostismyfriend When would you know you need a new heater core? Or can you always just flush those clean?
If water flows to it and it ant leaking then you dont need one
@@Boostismyfriend Thanks! Flushed it and got new hoses and it’s working like a champ. Thanks again!
@@TheSouthernSkunk awesome
Man thanks for the video . I'm gonna try and flush out my system tomorrow and hopefully it'll fix my heat problem
Awesome
Great job... 👍 🤝
@@bfflorida2311 appreciate you
Great information.
Appreciate you watching