Hand-stitching an 18th Century Shift || Historical Sewing Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2020
- Join me for a completely hand-sewn project: my 18th century shift. This was my 1st attempt at original practice, made before the stays, but people kept asking for the tutorial, so here it is 😊 Is hand-sewing and original practice my newfound one-and-only love? No. I think in the end I prefer machine stitching interior seams, and hand sewing the majority of visible seams. But this was fun and a great learning experience, and a shift is the perfect project to try it on 😉
The finished dimensions: / 367536019594127379
How to pattern a shift: • Formulas to Draft a Sh...
How to sew stays: • 1789 Strapless Stitche...
SUPPLIES (nothing is affiliate)
The linen was from my stash, but B&T offers an equivalent:
burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
1/8" Drawstring: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Linen Thread: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Brown Stockings: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Find me elsewhere:
Instagram - / mariahpattie
Pinterest - / mariahpattie
Spoonflower shop - www.spoonflower.com/profiles/...
Myfabricdesigns shop - www.myfabricdesigns.com/Artis...
Hair & Makeup by @marissalauren_hair on Instagram
Music by epidemicsound.com - Навчання та стиль
Don’t know if anyone else has commented, but about felling the gusset; felling it away from gusset, towards the body, creates a much stronger gusset, that is much less likely to rip. A gusset felled inwards on itself is comparatively much weaker. I sew 18th century men’s shirts that have the same kind of gusset, and I was lucky to have someone tell me about the difference very early on.
appreciate the info! :)
Thanks for the heads up. Important to know these little bits before I get to that step. [Roses & distant hugs]
I'm new to this, what do you mean by felling away and inwards?
Oh nevermind, I think I understand what you're saying!
How does this make the gusset weaker? Are you talking about the underarm gusset or the side gores? It seems like everyone, including Burnley and Trowbridge fell the underarm gusset toward the gusset, away from the body. I'm so confused by this comment.
Hahahaaa, that last line about procrastinating on making a shift really hit me where I live. I guess this is a sign to get started 😅
Seams, historically, were often sewn using running back stitch. Since discovering this I have been hand sewing most of my garments using running back stitch. To date, in nearly 7 years, only one dress has had a seam which came partially undone, and that was a cotton failure. Resewn with gutermann thread instead of tacking thread and no more problems. I wear my clothing daily, including my version of the mediaeval bra, all hand sewn with running stitch. Just as strong as back stitch, which I only use around the armholes when putting in sleeves. You need all the strength you can get with sleeve insertion.
I really like your honesty. "I just wanted to try this out and see." "I still have some speed to work on." It makes your videos more relaxing and relatable for a beginner and I'm thankful how it encourages me and makes the task feel possible.
"If you've been procrastinating starting your shift as long as I've been procrastinating making this video"
Oh no, I've been uncovered! XD
We've all been called out
I'm in this video and I don't like it
I'm so glad there are other people interested in this topic
Let me mention how much I appreciate that Quality Quail Footage. Newcomer to this channel. You are awesome.
That rainy day must have been a gorgeous time to just sit and sew ☺️
Heh, I find once I've started procrastinating something, that I have procrastinated becomes a reason for putting it off even longer. The longer I've been putting it off for the worse it gets. Grats on Doing The Thing, and thank you for sharing with us.
In Dublin, a "waxy" is an old name for a shoe-maker because they used waxed thread... but I've never actually seen someone use it before!
You are like the best youtuber for instructions. Everything you say is so easy to understand!!!
What do you mean I can’t just start hacking off pieces of fabric and expect the rest of the measurements to all still work?!
No wonder garment making is so mystifying to me. Things affect other things...
On the other hand the gusset seemed to make perfect sense. Thanks!
I’m so desperately jealous of how gorgeous your stitching is
I REALLY APPRECIATE being shown, thankyou.
Happy too see another left-handed stitcher! I am watching this as I am about to start hand-sewing my first shift! Wish me luck!
this was cool, it would be nice if the comments (like at 8:59) were on screen for two to three times as long though, I kept having to go back and pause to read them
I made a shift out of some $4/yard cotton last summer as my first pseudo-historical sewing project. It was fantastic hand sewing practice, but I did something really horrid on the neckline and trying to gather it down to actually wear it is a nightmare. The sleeves are also... not it. Might be time to invest in some shift linen and remake it now that I’ve had a touch more practice...
where on earth did you find 4$/yard cotton!
@@elliecaven1923 There is a liquidation store near me that has a whole sewing and craft section. The deals are amazing and you can (depending on what they get in) get wool, leather, and lots of other fabrics a lot cheaper. They have cute prints sometimes. I got a psycho tooth fairy with little blood spatters flannel that I made into pjs.
That’s crazy! I was legitimately thinking this morning “huh, I wonder when Mariah is going to put out a shift video” and lo and behold this video gets uploaded an hour later! Seriously though, thank you so much for this video! I’ve been wanting to make a shift (I have the linen and everything), but I’m so afraid to make the first cut. This video definitely gave me the confidence I need to just push through and get started.
I really love the drawing of the sewing woman! I also like how the shift turned out and weirdly I think the too short sleeves look very good!
Thank you, though the sewing woman isn't mine. It's an unknown 18th century sketch. There isn't much info about it available online, but if you type "18th century woman sewing sketch" into google, it's one of the first to pop up.
@@MariahPattie Thank you very much!
Omg your drawstring hack!! So brilliant!
I'm so impressed by your stitching! They are so small, I have been handstiching for the last two years but I couldn't bother making my stitching that small.
edit: typo
You proofed your captions!! “Extant” isn’t garbled! :)
Even though I have acceptable hearing, I personally appreciate the extra time and effort that goes into captions when it comes to technical language, foreign languages or subjects, or words I am unfamiliar with. Now someone might learn how to spell extant or use context clues for its meaning.
Asummersdaydreamer14 Yes! Exactly!
Your hand stitching is beautiful!
I've never seen left handed person stitching. It really confused my brain. Awesome end product!
Welcome to what it's like to be a left-handed person watching any crafting video ever. 😆
You made the under arm gussets finally make sense. I still messed up the gores cause I got in a hurry. However, thanks to this video and your explanation if gussets I finally tackled my first shift. Thank you so much. I love how thorough you are in your videos.
All the felling. So much felling. What a lovely way to spend an afternoon... except for the cat who demands that lap space is for her.
I have all my stuff for my first shift but I have been too nervous to cut my fabric and start because I hadn't seen a pattern for one that I loved. When I saw this shift in another video and you mentioned possibly digging up the video footage and making a tutorial I was so excited! Thank you for doing that. I'm going to get started on mine today!
Also, I absolutely adore your videos and I appreciate all your work that goes into them! 💚
I loved the editing in this!
Thank you!
I made my first shift using this tutorial and the patterning tutorial. Now, a year later (ish), I'm using the same pattern to make a puffy 18th century shirt! I know everyone reveres Bernadette Banner's pirate shirt tutorial, but I personally prefer your channel ☺️ Can't wait to get my puffy poofy shirt finished! It's my first linen, fully-handstitched project! (I actually came back to this video because I couldn't remember what order to sew the sleeve/side/gusset seams in lol!)
You and Bernadette Banner could practically be sisters, hehe!
This is so great!!!😁❤
This is a wonderful follow-up to your Shift Patterning tutorial. I made three mock-ups before deciding on the pattern I wanted to use. With each mock-up, I gained a little more experience. The final Linen Shift was just right. Thank you for producing and publishing these wonderful videos.
Beautiful and well explained. I hope to start making my history bounding wardrobe. I definitely want to make my winter wardrobe a ton of layered dresses, hand knit wool hose, etc. I absolutely hate heavy pants and stuff. I'm also now disabled and can dress any way I want to.
Your stitches are beautiful! I made a shift years ago, and have been putting off making a new one because of how badly my first one came out XD I tried to make a shift out of a gross polyester bedsheet, turns out that was a terrible idea. Thank you for calling me and everyone else out on procrastinating!
Just started making a 18 century outfit i haven't sewing anything since I was like 10yrs old, I'm 36 now, lol, just made an apron,now about to start the shift, so im checking out some videos, before I start.. love ur videos, i definitely need some more practice with my stitches
I love how you always go back to math!
Lovely!
Thank you so much! I was waiting for it.
What a great motivation of the last lines!
Fantastic videography and editing. Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for posting this!! I think this is the best gusset explanation I have ever seen! Also, leftie solidarity! Hope you have a great weekend!
LOVE this!!
I am so glad I found this tutorial! Beginning my own handsewn shift tomorrow.
Brilliant, thank you that was very helpful. And hurray for chicken footage!
I embroidered during the pandemic and really made a lot of net ones. It was so relaxing hand stitching all day. But I got burned out and started to teach myself to sew. I really want to make a handmade shift and sewing it by hand.
This is the best gusset tutorial I’ve seen so far! So needed this yesterday when I was dealing with my own gussets on a chemise I’m making, tho the gusset felling suggestions are right on time!! 😁
I have to say I really enjoyed the rain sound along with the stitching, it was very relaxing.
ooooh! that thread snip matching with the ding sound at 12:37 is so satisfying!!
Beautiful shift
Trying my hand at a shift thanks to you! I'm hoping to use it for layering with skirts, etc. Hopefully it turns out!!!
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. Definitely appreciated. Cheers from Queensland, Australia 🇦🇺
I've been so nervous to try making a shift, but your walk through was so clear I finally think I'm ready. Thank you!
excellent tips, thank you
Funny about the running back stitch... I figured out on my own as a child that this was the only stitch that held
Really enjoyed this, thank you! Am glad I'm not the only one who procrastinates. Stay safe. Best wishes from Down Under🇦🇺👗🌸👒😎
Great video! Thank you
Mariah, haven’t seen a new video from you in a looooong time. I hope all is well. Happy not so New Year🎉
Your sewing is so precise and beautiful! I like your pinning! Morgan Donner was complaining that she might use too many pins. I think you can never pin enough. ( you should see the pins I use when I pin in sleeves that need easing!)
Now I am excitedly waiting for my linen to arrive next week with linen thread and wax from Burnley and Trowbridge to start on my first shift!
Thanks for including the rain💖💖💖💖 (I haven't had any in a minute😔)
I think you did a great job with the video editing
I got started on that!
Very pretty 😀
So simple, comfortable and beautiful! Love that cool gauze material.
Linen
So I followed your tutorial. I cut the back waaaaaay to low, lol. And now it feels like it's falling off my shoulders. But this was a wonderful tutorial, and it looks great!
About feeling like you're sewing really slowly, I made a shift by hand in april, it was my first hand sewing project, and it's obviously much much slower than machine sewing, but part of what I found helpful with that is that it changes your expectations of what is a reasonable amount of sewing to do. If you're making a floor length skirt pannel on a machine, it'll take you an hour, if even, to sew all the seams, and another short while to finish them. By hand, that same process can reasonably be expected to take anywhere from a day to a week. So it's obviously much slower, but I find it much more rewarding as a consequence
Thanks for this! I’m working g out how to make one for this year’s Halloween costume. I bought some beautiful white linen in the form of a size 3X maxi shirt for $3 at a thrift shop (score!). I’ll be sure to do the neck first 😅 Also the comments on the video were very helpful as well. Thank you!
I do this! Go look in the drapery section. I found some great drapes with linen backing💖💖💖💖 (2 pc for $1.99, if I remember correctly)
i made a shift that is mostly done. watching your tutorial and seeing you make yours makes me want to rip out all my pieces and redo it. mine is just a mess. I am ashamed of it. Have been since i made it but you give me courage to tackle it again.
Thank you ❤
Blousy sleeves and a smidge of lace on a shift make a very nice blousy tunic to wear with skirts, and it doesn't have to be just linen you can make one out of flannel to with the fall coming up in a month and a half.
I'm currently making an 18th century shift as well, but I'm doing the whole thing with mantua makers seams as I find them a lot faster, easier, and cleaner looking than flat felled seams.
*Goes to check stitches per inch on the shift she has been working on for weeks.
Beautiful video as always.
(You probably could have used a running backstitch for the side gores of your shift. They don't take much strain.)
oh mah gash! lil birbs! lil birbs! I'm so happy!
Watching a fellow southpaw hand sew is awesome. I’ve been trying to figure how to reverse all the “righty” examples in my head . . .hurt 😝
Naw, quails, so cute ^^
Thanks! I followed aIong and the mockup was encouraging!
On another note, I just acquired a linen men's shift from the 1800s France, gorgeous condition, bright white with not a stain on it. I want to take detailed photos to document it for the sake of future historians who are wondering what the fabric texture was like, how wide the hems were, how long the stitches were, etc. Where is a good place to upload the photos so as many people can access them as possible?
I needed 2 months for my hand sewn historical kitchen apron (to be fair, there were quite a lot of pieces of fabric… I think it was the Butterick 5509 patter, the simplest version (A?)), so… there you go…
Thanks. I cant sew and while a shift is a simple thing, it's quite daunting to me. I don't think you'll be making another one soon - but how to measure and cut out would be helpful too.
haha beat you to it :) click the link in the description titled "How to pattern a shift"
@@MariahPattie Thank you so much - I should have opened the description. Glad UA-cam suggested you!
@@MariahPattie I think Ill have to represent the poor peasant who can't even own a decently made shift...
loved it. thanks! now how about a regency style shift? I just made one from a regency period book that was based on an extant shift. not very clear how the sleeves were set. I ended up using a sieve gusset because I was worried about the underarm... I made it work, but it wasn't correct for the pattern, or this style of gusset haha. I think Ill end up making another like yours because its just more beautiful. and maybe I can find that lighter linen. and of course buy better beeswax! my thread seems to fray so much with what I'm using. my next project is a set of drawers and then onto the regency corset/stays...
Person A: Im going to spend my weekends doing something like watching TV.
Me: hrrngh cottage shift go make
I’ve been sporadically sewing my shifts, I took the inspiration to make 2. I’m doing good making both at once, but yeah I still haven’t made a neckline. I’m terrified that I underestimated how much fabric to use, ‘twill be to small and arms too short. 😔
I procrastinated making a shift because of the armpit gussets, haha. But gotta give it a go now, it will make sense I know. :)
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
❤
This is so helpful! Question about the drawstring - what did you use?
Your videos are the complete package! I love your music, the rain sounds playing in the background, your commentary and humor, your insights, your meticulous hand stitching and explanations... And I love your math/time calculations!!! I do that all the time with little jobs, especially those that could be construed as monotonous. Very useful indeed!! And may I say, you look so incredibly beautiful with your hair done up in the modeling shot! Wow! 😍
love this, what type of fabric is used for shifts
🥰
A left handed sewist! How interesting! Do you have to alter your techniques besides sewing from left to right? I only ask because historically lefties were frowned upon and parents usually forced their children to use their right hand as dominant so since you use historical techniques I was curious if you have to modify them at all.
What kind of stuff makes a good drawstring?
Okay but how come no one is talking about how Miriah looks like Keira Knightly in PotC?
What were you using to thread your drawstring?
You said you used the shift fabric from Burnley and Trowbridge. I was wondering how soft it is compared to cotton muslin? And also how sheer is it?
It's a simpler task to make the sleeves a bit longer on the pattern and adjust the final length with the hemming since how the neckline rests on the shoulders is unpredictable. also is it not possible to make one eyelet that both ends of the drawstring pass out of?
what is the music at around 7:50 please?
I live in a town (city?) In Western Oregon of about 200,000. Fabric stores are disappearing here. Charity shops don't usually have any fabric i want to use. The nearest biggish city is Portland (650,000) and is a couple hours away, but the fabric stores there are also disappearing. Then there's Seattle, which is 5 hours away. I prefer seeing and handling the fabric, but what are some great on - line sources for linen and other fabrics? There are so many choices out there, and I want the best (or the best I can afford). Thanks for any help you can give me. I really appreciate it.
Очень круто, только не поняла, ткань льняная видимо. Буду шить. Здорово! Спасибо.
I thought sewing by hand speed math you did, was very interesting.
I love It! But I'm Brazilian and o need tô watch the video a lot of times. My English is not one of the best rs
hey does anyone (or if you see this hopefully mariah) know the name of the tool she used to put the drawstring in the neckline through called? i cant tell if its just a loop turner or something more nifty, it looks like a good tool for a fiddly job like get a drawstring through. thanks for this video it was super insightful and very informative! xx
I usually use a fat, blunt needle. Don't know where it came from, but it doesn't punch through the fabric easily, so it's great for tiny drawstrings.
@@MariahPattie ahh amazing! thanks for that, great tip! :) xx
Those tools are called bodkins.
@@cynthiaquilici6793 thankyou :)
Do you have a video for the cuteness on your dress form at 02:40?
no, sorry, It's pre-youtube. But if you go way back on my instagram I've got a series of making-of closeups.
What weight of linen did you use? The linen I have wasn't labelled as shift linen. I weighed it, and it's 5.4 oz/square yard. Is that shift weight?
Sorry, I don't have a very helpful answer. Burnley and Trowbridge has a linen labeled "shift weight", but there is no oz. gauge. I kind of know it by feel. It doesn't have to be precise, though. Just fairly lightweight, but not light enough to feel flimsy, if that makes sense.