I Made 18th Century Stays Completely by Hand
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- Shop Brooklinen’s Labor Day Sale and get 20% off your order by clicking my link here bit.ly/NicoleRBrooklinen . (*If you’re watching this video after 9/6, you can still get a discount by using my promo code RUDOLPH for $20 off orders over $100.)”
How many stitches does it take to make a pair of stays? Honestly, that sounds terrifying. But there are 248 bones and over 50 eyelets, not to mention any of the seaming or binding. It's a big project to take on, but it's been almost 15 years since my last every day pair was made. In the end, I worked on this pair for about a month with a few days off here and there for my hands. It's amazing to think of 18th century tailors that specialized in stays and would sit there doing this day after day!
Handbound Historical Costumes: handboundcostumes.co.uk/custo...
Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @nicolerudolph
Socials
Instagram: / thenicolerudolph
Twitch: / nicolerudolph
Tiktok: / nicole_rudolph
Patreon: / nicolerudolph
Contact for sponsorships: nicolerudolph.partnerships@gmail.com
Contact for non-business enquiries: RudolphQuestions@gmail.com
Edited with DaVinci Resolve: www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com
00:00 The Project
03:44 Odd Details
07:11 Cutting & Prepping
09:03 Sewing Channels
14:16 Seaming & Boning
18:33 Edges
24:26 Busk & Front
30:54 Reveal - Навчання та стиль
I ended up dropping the ambience video on my main channel here: ua-cam.com/video/3Xa61wzGL44/v-deo.html but I'll be adding more ASMR videos to my other channel soon!: ua-cam.com/channels/VQc2EHcXrxqpR5mW-pE1pA.html
Currently suffering through boning a pair of Elizabethan bodies so this hits a little too hard
What's fascinating is that as soon as she wears the stays, we immediately see the silhouette of the period, the body is immediately transformed, we're looking at a portrait or an engraving from the 18th century.
The shape of the silhouette is everything. That's why so many historical films don't work: they don't wear the right undergarments under the costumes, and even with an 18th-century-style dress, the overall look of the body remains modern.
I'm only about 2/3rds through the video but I just wanna say I learned something really important from this. While the result is extremely intricate and very elegant, the process is really practical and to the point. I'm the type of person who thinks way too much about a project and then I don't end up even starting because I see too many potential problems. The more I think, the more problems I need to figure out a solution for. And if I don't do that, I feel like I can't make it as perfect as I want. This video is direct proof that (with enough skill) you can just take the practical approach and make something really incredible. And with experience, I think that becomes even more true since then you can adapt to problems that come up while working more easily too. Let's hope I can put this knowledge into practice and finally get over my perfectionism paralysis.
as a Virgo, I feel your pain
@@dressmup1 as a dysfunctional Capricorn with Saturn in retrograde in the third house, I forgot where I was going with this sentence...
@TaylorTheOtter - I am like you, except without sewing skills. ^_^
I have that exact problem. That's why I have watched probably every video from youtube of making stays. I have looked many many pictures and asked questions from other hobbyists. Finally in the process of actually making a pair!
Thank you for taking some time to talk about posture and self care while working on a project like this! We shouldn't have to suffer for our art. :) The 'ugly' insides are so fascinating, I love this in depth step by step. And the final result is impeccable in craftsmanship and practicality!
Thank you for mentioning the knot thing! when I did ballet i would sew my ballet shoe ribbons with the knot on the outside because I have gotten blisters from the tiny tiny knot of a single thread rubbing against my ankle
desperately taking notes because my time travel novel is not writing itself and research is turning out to be super difficult
edit: honestly, I wish information on especially lower class clothing and children's clothing throughout the ages was more accessible, and books didn't cost like 50 bucks
Did the same watching Morgan Donner's 17th c stays, lol!
Gosh Nicole, these stays are truly a work of art! From the materials to the stitching and the fit, everything is so beautiful. I also watched Bella Mae's videos recently where she made a pair of 18th century stays by hand and now it's starting to itch for me too, even though I've never made anything 18th century lol. And indeed, in Dutch the seating position is called "kleermakerszit', translating literally to 'clothes maker's sit. '
Goh inderdaad ja! Nooit over na gedacht!
@@random200 Geinig he?
Question, has a museum ever asked about incorporating your recreation videos along with the inspiration exhibit?
I've hand sewn four pairs of stays now and your stitching is BREATHTAKING. Absolutely exquisite. Side note: for those who want to sand the edges of their boning, use an acrylic nail file! They're designed to file very similar plastic material. Sandpaper works but takes forever, 3/10, do not recommend.
Body mechanics / efficiency professional here. You absolutely can sit cross legged for long periods of time as long as you're looking down! It's looking up in that position that would be a problem. If you have the forward curl in your mid/low back but a backward curl in your neck, the contrast there creates strain. Sitting on a slightly raised cushion, so your pelvis is on the cushion but your feet are not, can help too. And like you said, take breaks, change positions sometimes. Take care of yourself, humans aren't statues. What a gorgeous piece! I'm in awe of the level of detail here. Awesome video!
Obviously you put a MASSIVE amount of hard work into this, but to someone who doesn't sew, this still feels like magic. Watching you do all the fiddly bits that I can't imagine my hands doing is so so cool. ❤
Trust me, I do sew (mostly daily wear garments nothing like this) and this still seems like borderline witchcraft to me
This is a literal masterpiece. You've been a top-tier artisan for many years but I think this pushed you into new territory!
You do have mad skills! You have created a very handsome garment. I love these make-it videos. I find the voiceover explanation of what you are doing so interesting. Thank you, Nicole for this delightful video. Hope your hands recover soon.
Beautiful job! The Tailor's way of sitting makes a lot of sense to me. I always find myself sitting cross-legged with a board across my knees when hand sewing. Now I know that there was a good reason for it. 😊 Thank you for sharing your process with us!
What a labor of love!! I can’t wait to see what they look like with the dress, and hear more about how they function vs your other stays!
The visual of all those stitches is making my skin itch I think I'm allergic to high quality hard work
Man. The workmanship on these stays is exquisite. You blow my mind on the regular. Brava my dear!!!
Oh my god, those stays are amazing! I watched you making parts of these on Twitch, so I've been looking forward to seeing the end result. I knew they would be beautiful, but, wow, they really exceeded my expectations! I'm curious to know how they feel compared to other stays.
I am making 1780s half boned stays from the Redthreaded pattern right now, so I can really appreciate how much work went into these! Mine seem so simple in comparison. I'm going to try to remember that whenever I feel like it's getting tedious. I'm grateful that I only have to do 30 or so boning channels, not over 200!
What a beautiful garment! Your stitches are so even and it looks like the stays will be sturdy and last a long time. I'm so impressed by your sewing and cobbling skills.
Rewatching this while tackling the Redthreaded 1780s pattern! Of course no one "needs" permission to use a sewing machine for any project, but I'm grateful for the reminder just to shut up my own worry and perfectionism.
Only because I try to emulate your pronunciation (it is so beautiful) for learning better English, I keep noticing that you say ACROST instead of ACROSS. I was intrigued by this and checked the Internet for the correct use of these words. Looks like the word ACROST, while not recognized by English dictionaries, is sometimes used as a traditional variant. Interesting.
I cannot comment on the stays. They are far beyond my comprehension of accuracy and beauty. I just look at you working as I would listen to a virtuoso musician.
This turned out great. The contours it creates are perfect, I can't wait to see the final look with the outer garments.
I feel like this belongs in the guinness book of records or something.
It’s a piece of art. I hope it’s comfortable.
Wow, what a perfect fit to your body! The more I sew, the more actual tailoring impresses me, there is just so much you need to understand and remember about anatomy and fabrics in order to achieve the perfect fit, especially for corsets (including stays)!
Thank you so much for showing your process. I'd never studied an extant pair of stays so it was very enlightening. I'm in the process of making my first pair of stays and now realize that I may have done a few things incorrectly. It's all sewn on my machine and, according to the pattern instructions, I needed to make sure I sewed the boning channels in the same direction, top to bottom. The instructions also said to alternate sides when sewing the channels starting from the center and working my way out to the seam allowances. I did start to sew section by hand. But after taking about 2 days to stitch the boning channels in just one piece I gave up and went to my machine. My hands thanked me. I was quickly running out of patience with hand sewing despite finding it to meditative. I really want to bin the whole thing and start over, but I don't have any more of that outer fabric, and I really like it. It was the leftovers of another project so I was working with less than a yard of it. I had a feeling I should have done a mockup first, but I didn't listen to my intuition. So, now I guess I'm going to finish them and learn from my mistakes. Though they're still at a point where I can make a few changes. Like changing way the tabs are boned. So, fingers crossed I get it done before the end of the year.
That is stunning! It’s aesthetically pleasant perfection & it was absolutely fascinating to see it so masterfully constructed! Thank you!
Your back stitch is perfection, holy shit. It's wild.
I find that hand-sewing is easier on my neck and back than sitting at the machine. I was in a taxi accident 5 years ago and was left with neck and upper back issues. If I alternate between machine and, say, sitting on the couch hand-sewing, I can have a longer day of sewing than sitting at the machine alone. Also, the more hand-sewing I do, the more I realize that, while it can be time-consuming, it's actually not as slow as I thought, and you do get a lot more control over how sleeves ease in, for example, or how trim goes around a corner.
Utterly stunning! Love how the white silk tape accentuates the curves of the boning and stitching
5 mins in and I'm getting up to do some seam finishing! lol. really feeling the hand stitching right now.
Gosh those stitches are neater than many of the machine stitches one sees nowadays...
My fingertips hurt just watching this! As always, Nicole, you are amazing.
i had no idea that it was normal to sit hunched over when handsewing. i've done a lot of crochet and i have a lot of trouble sitting upright, but i've had it drilled into me that that's how i'm supposed to sit. good to know i'm not a weirdo!
You made this so easy to follow. In many sewing videos it's hard to see what's happening but I almost feel like I could reproduce this given a starting pattern.
This work was worth the effort, subtle bodily asymmetry can be catered for easily. Nice rhythmic stitches and the binding is neat.
Birdy
Stitching leather with a sharp needle like on the binding here dulls your needle quickly which makes the process harder. To reduce this effect, every time you change your thread, pass the needle completely through a small emery sand needle sharpener.
If you don't know what that is it's a small fabric object densely stuffed with emery sand - an abrasive. If you have one of the 'classic tomato shaped pincushions with the little heavy strawberry attached, the strawberry is an emery sand needle sharpener.
Do not stab and pull out, that will scuff up your needles/pins and can make it catch on finer fabrics. Instead, pass the needle all the way through the berry in one direction to sharpen the tip and minimize scuffing.
Wow are those gorgeous! I handstitched an Elizabethan pair of bodies with far less structure and larger bones between 2021 and 23 and holy shit this is beautiful
My hands ache in sympathy just watching you stitch but what a gorgeous outcome!
Oh, your poor hands! Be gentle with them for a couple of days. The stays are divine - utterly divine. A piece of beautiful art. They had such pretty under-things and support garments back then.
These turned out so well, and I love the shape that this silhouette creates. Absolutely stunning work!
These are STUNNING!
Funny that in french sitting crossed legged is called "s"asseoir en tailleur" which means litterally...sitting like a tailor. Will definitely try it for some future sewing projects^^
Shout out to gangster Nicole for sewing all that without a thimble!
Fantastic work!
It's so beautiful!
They look very comfortable. I would have thought the whole thing was sewn by machine. Your hand stitches are so perfect.
That is a masterpiece! Thank you for sharing!
That is stunning!
cross-legged with a board in my lap is exactly how I hand sew...I didn't know that's what tailor's used to do! it makes sense, it's really intuitive. I still wear out tho, my legs fall asleep and I get pain in my back and ribs from it 😂 might be doing it wrong tho
Stunning work. ❤
Absolutely beautiful!! I’ve been looking forward to this one for days ❤❤❤
A work of art!
What a beautiful piece Nicole! Thank you for sharing the whole process with us!
These are stunning
It looks stunning!
masterful work
Beautiful!!! I wish we still wore stays today. They are so good for your back and shoulders.
What a work of art!
Looks amazing, great job
This is art! This is stunning! Congratulations!!!
Omg, the result is stunning
Absolutely beautiful work, Nicole ❤
An incredible amount of work!
These turned out jaw droppingly gorgeous, fantastic craftsmanship!
Gosh, so much work! They turned out amazing!
Gorgeous! What a work of art !
Wow!!!! This is amazing 😍😍😍😍 and so beautiful!
They are truly beautiful.
WOW! Your hand stitching is SO neat! I wish I could do it that neat!
Stunning workmanship - as always you continue to amaze and inspire!
Stunning and done masterfully. Thank you so much.
Gorgeous piece; really impeccable work
it came out exquisite. thanks for sharing.
Amazing work. I am always in awe of those who take on making stays and corsets.
Very flattering.
Beautiful work and amazing patience to do it!
I love this! I'm binding some Regency short stays as I'm watching! Excellent work! You're truly an inspiration!
This is an absolute masterpiece! Your dedication to your art and mastery of your craft is incredible
This is exquisite!! 😍 great job!!
Thank you! That final reveal, brought a tear to my eye.
These are absolutely stunning ✨
What an amazingly detailed piece of work!
Wow, the fit on these is spectacular!!! It looks fantastic.
Beautiful! Also your stitiching is so pretty
My wrists hurt just watching this. Having said that, beautiful work, all the time and effort put into this definitely paid off
This is incredible! I am in awe of your workmanship!
Absolutely stunning work! And thanks, too, for the advice about the ergonomics of doing that much hand stitching!
That's a lot of work. I'm glad you talked about posture and pacing yourself so as not to wear out your hands.
I love the shape these stays give the body!
Amazing. Truly amazing.
Absolutely beautiful work! Extremely impressive engineering in both the original and your own version! 😌
Those look pretty comfortable. And so neatly done, good job.
Really nice piece of work. Very impressive !
This is incredible !!
Very flattering. Also well made, the way your boned the tabs was fascinating.
I’m in awe! Such a beautiful and brilliant craft. This piece is already so incredibly beautiful. Much respect, it has taken you a lot of time and dedication to get here ❤
Will those stays are amazing. I cannot fathom the hours you work or how hard the work is. I really enjoy the fact that you like doing things the old fashioned way. Wonderful work!
I’m equally fascinated and terrified at the thought of making stays, hopefully I’ll get there one day
Your set is so beautiful, and you make lovely things. Thanks for the video!