Zippered Stays Tutorial: How to Make Modernized Stays for Daily Wear (18th Century Historybounding)
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Join me in a fresh attempt to work through my 18th century silhouette fixation 😅 This time I'm making a pair of full stays, starting from my 1790's stay pattern, but altering them for modern, daily-wear purposes.
OF INTEREST
Sports Bra Stays: • Sports Bra Stays: Maki...
1790's Stays: • 1789 Strapless Stitche...
The Science of Warmth: www.summitpost...
Sorry, it was CrowsEyeProductions, not Townsends: • Getting Dressed in WW1...
Bernadette's Victorian Hip Pad: • Does This Make My Bum ...
SUPPLIES
Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschool...
Linen: www.joann.com/...
Imitation whalebone, linen twill tape, etc: burnleyandtrow...
Short, metal separating zippers: www.etsy.com/l...
Gum tragacanth: www.amazon.com...
FIND ME ELSEWHERE
Instagram (for current progress) - / mariahpattie
Pinterest (for inspiration/research) - / mariahpattie
Spoonflower shop (for fabric) - www.spoonflowe...
Myfabricdesigns shop (for fabric) - www.myfabricde...
MUSIC BY epidemicsound.com
1. A Celtic Blessing - Bonnie Grace
2. Highland Hymn - Bonnie Grace
3. The Norman Kings - Bonnie Grace
4. Last Breath of Freedom - Bonnie Grace
5. Duel in the Ruins - Cercles Nouvelles
6. The Goths - Bonnie Grace
7. Fight it One More Night - Mama Zula
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
"I'm still working through my eighteenth century silhouette fixation" same girl, why else am I here lol
Have I learnt how to use my sewing machine yet? No. Am I watching this anyway “for future reference, when my skills are there?” Absolutely. I’ll be sure to drop by in 5 years and tell you how I went. 😂
Ashleigh P love this comment! 😂
Same here, except I might be a year ahead of you Ashleigh. I guess I'll let you all know in 4 years then x)
Emile Fafin y’all should not forget. Set a reminder in google now please. I might let you know sooner 😬
I haven't even bought the sewing machine yet! 😃
Good news all of you, you don't need a sewing machine!
These look perfect for theatre, because they give the right shape while being easy to get on/off
I love that you experimenting with stays is becoming a series! I’m always so excited to see what you come up with next. Your trial and error and talking through what worked or didn’t and why, and finding the most practical and comfortable way to construct and wear foundations is really helpful to people just starting out with stay-making. Thank you!😘
@An_Evening_Star_Rose • I agree totally!
If you haven't seen it already, Morgan Donner has a video where she shows three different methods for constructing corsets.
This is the content I AM HERE FOR!!! My interest in historical fashion is largely around "better underwear." If I could do away with modern bras I would be very happy.
What I would love to do is have something like these modern stays for colder weather and a lengburg bra inspired supportive chemise for the ick days of summer.
Very much looking forward to your future videos; especially now that I'll be able to start sewing again since I'm out of school. 😁
I fully related to your leggings-under-jeans habit. I used to work in an office where the AC worked on the maximum setting all year long and I was freezing in summer, let alone in winter (I had to plug in a heater underneath my desk or it wouldn't be workable). I'm glad I don't work there anymore :)
I know "women freezing in the office" is kind of an old troupe, but I've been trying to figure out the logic of why women (and not men) chose to stick with corsets for so many years, and I know bust support is the biggie, but I think core warmth might be a huge overlooked factor.
The stays are likely a good solution. But in terms of workplaces, both society and established scientific norms that ignore women, are at least partially to blame.
www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/women-theres-a-reason-why-youre-shivering-in-the-office
www.npr.org/2019/05/26/727108363/how-office-temperature-affects-cognitive-performance2019/05/26/727108363/how-office-temperature-affects-cognitive-performance
I like this zipper option - being a curvy girl but also with joint issues and limitations - I think having either front spiral lacing or a zipper could make me likely to wear more of these fashions. Thank you for sharing - it isn’t that confusing and you do lovely hand-stitched eyelets!
If you can find the videos, Bernadette Banner has 2 about making a corset for a asymmetric body... Food for thought?
Those look so comfy. Working a ren faire for years has resulted in me oddly missing my nice pair of bodies that feel like a very secure hug. (But I definitely don't fit into them anymore.) And is probably part of why I want to go with mostly Tudor and 18th century inspired for those wonderful flattering conical shapes.
I have no idea how I could get a busk without the aid of ordering online, so I was considering a zipper but also scared it wouldn't work, so I REALLY appreciate you making this! It looks like there's no issue at all, so I must try it! I really wanna wear some corsetry with modern clothes all undercover stealthily.
Totally on board with being warmer! Living in the northeast of the US our winters go from mild one year to excruciatingly cold the next, just depends on what the winter vortex wants to do that year. I love the idea of modernizing the 18th century looks. I'm obsessed with Outlander, been knitting all sorts of things from the show. I'm in research mode right now for sewing - I kinda know how to sew, but I'm still a beginner, and we are going to be moving in a few months so I get to have my own crafting room in our new house. I'm a short waisted, short- curvy women myself, modern clothes just fit horribly. Looking to sew myself a new wardrobe.
I wear just as many layers as you in winter. 2-3 pairs of socks barely do it, but the other day I layered cotton/smartwool/fleece, and my feet stayed warm and dry! ... In 60 degree weather. My goal this winter is just make the things I need to be warm. Stays have now moved up that list significantly!
I really love the idea of zipped stays. I just finished my first laced one and I must admit a zipper would be quite handy :D.
I thought this was such a good idea too, but you said it before me!
My. Only problem with them is I have had zippered sports bras. And the zipper failed at work. I had a very active job. Very embarrassing. Something to be careful of.
@@woodenkat8971 Maybe you can put a hook and eye at the top of the zipper to stop it from unzipping? Like dresses frequently have at their sides.
@@insachan That sounds like an excellent idea!!
I have a zippered corset from Mystic City Corsets, and the construction is so solid I feel like the fabric will give out before the zipper. There might be some structural ideas from those that’d prevent zipper failure?
How. How do you keep on making the exact videos I didn't realize I wanted but now need??
As someone who has lordosis and finds bras the literal worst, and corsets the actual best, this series of yours is the best. I always shy away from store bought "corsets" with zippers because the zippers always brake. But if properly made with a good metal zipper, the idea has merit.
I'm really enjoying the epic soundtrack. Currently on mockup 3 of my Victorian corset
Oh yes! Especially the end plate music 🧡
My torso is short too, and I have a fullish bust. I am loving this channel!
What a fun project! I love the combination of something modern (zipper) with a corset. Very practical too.
I like your easy going, figure it out as you go along style. It makes me feel more confident about jumping into making one for myself.
Also your method of pulling the thread tails through at 8:45 is so clever! I've always just backstiched and cut the tails as short as I could which looks dreadful. So thank you for teaching me a new technique.
Thank you, I've learned that no matter how much research I do, how much I prepare for a project, I'm still going to make mistakes, and it's never going to turn out exactly how I envisioned (in both good and bad ways). So may I quote a cliché and say the only thing to fear is fear itself?
Also the cups are SUCH a game changer! I can’t wait to try that out
Really cool!! The best colors for bras and underwear that won't show are pinks in warm undertones and reds. That was a tip from my French aunt and she was right!
Also, I know how you feel about cold weather, I wear wool tights under everything, including trousers and jeans, and that really helps...
This is a wonderful idea! I must give them a try. I was intrigued by the sports bra style, but this is an even better idea. Your sewing skills are excellent, very neat and tidy and I really enjoyed watching. Thank you for the inspiration!
I am so here for this experimenting with stays! I find it so informative!
I started making myself a pair of stays about a year ago (intended to be a "wearable mockup" to test the Redthreaded pattern I was using) that I never finished. They didn't fit properly: the bust was too large even when laced closed, which meant gaping and no bust support, and it taught me that I'm short-waisted as they rode up into my armpits every time I sat (I also hated the fabric I used). I constructed them and boned them with zip ties, hand sewed some eyelet holes, and tried them on. I never ended up binding them because of all the issues and properly resolving the fit issues would have been more work than they were worth (especially considering the fabric made them essentially unwearable for any practical purpose).
HOWEVER, I saw a picture of those crescent moon cups on your instagram, I made myself some and added them to my unfinished stays. GAME CHANGER! There are still obviously fit issues, but those cups gave me bust support and they help keep the stays from moving up and down in uncomfortable ways every time I sit/stand. I probably still won't finish these particular stays since there are still fit and fabric issues, but I plan to make myself another properly wearable pair soon and I will not forgo the bust cups! Thanks for sharing your experimenting!
Wow I feel like you read my mind. I recently tried wearing my corset every day and found it was better than a bra but I hated the busk. I really struggle to open and close it (being quite round in the middle) so was considering a zip but wasn’t sure if it would break under the strain.
I think as long as it’s a metal zipper it should hold up. Though I definitely don’t have mine laced super tightly.
They have zipped corsets in burlesque. If you look for those heavy-duty zips they use on uniforms and military things you should be good. check YKK.
Yes to all the layers for warmth! I have been wanting to make stays or a corset for that exact reason 😂🙈 I have gone through the corset drafting workshop by Cathy Hay and Foundations Revealed but the pattern has been lying around for several months now and I might have just come up with the motivation to finally make the first mockup! Also, the zipper is a Genius idea. So convenient!
Two observations... being shorter waisted in the back is common, that really may be part of your issue. Also I'm thinking the stays are pushing your pelvis into a more ergonomic position that your muscles aren't used to holding, which will cause the discomfort you're describing. A healthy position for the pelvis is not tucked all the way forward OR swayed back. Do some looking in front of a mirror to find your neutral position and make conscious choices throughout the day to use that position while walking or exercising. Your future self will thank you for building core muscles supporting the correct alignment! You'll notice as you rock the pelvis how your ribs and neck want to bend in unison. Building good pelvic posture really supports your whole body 😊
Love seeing another short-waisted person here in the historybounding community! I love Bernadette and everything she makes, but I've always been jealous of her long torso and never thought anything could look as good on me as it does on her. You look so wonderful in these stays and the outfit you wore at the end is gorgeous on you!!
Thank you for experimenting with modernizing historic clothes! I love the concept.
I love the idea of the cups. I think I’m going to add them the stays I just made
I have a strapless stay pattern that I'm trying to do pretty much this exact thing. I'm currently in the "making the original pattern fit - mock up" stage. Thank you so much for this video!!!
That was really interesting at the end when you talked about keeping warm with corsetry/stays. I loved this video and love how your videos improve each time you post.
I love this kind of content. It’s great to see the experimentation of historical design with modern concepts and showing how they look under modern clothes. I would love for you to film your eureka modern stays once you design and test them out.
I like that, Eureka Stays. I'll have to remember that 😊
Oh I appreciate this.
I'm trying to find solutions for the short-waisted curvy person problem (I'll probably make some version of soft transitional stays eventually) and this helps a lot.
Is there a way to make sure the boning aids posture, or is that a thing that happens on its own?
I think the fact that it has boning helps. I'm sure it's more nuanced than that, and specific types of corsets/stays/boning help in different ways. But I don't know what those are, yet.
The straps of the stays helps pull the shoulders back into a better posture as well.
I really, REALLY want to attempt making myself a pair of stays. I need them in my life.
I was hoping you would do a tutorial for this, thank you! I really want to make myself some short italian and undress wear gowns to wear in my daily life, since i am a homebody and would not have any opportunity to wear the actual long versions
Hello! I hope everyone is having a great day. :)
I am greatly enjoying this whole series! However, my fingers were very sad watching you sew without a thimble. They do take some getting used to but I would seriously recommend it everything is so much nicer with one.
Especially soft thimbles, like leather. Normally sewing and needles won't pierce it (unless you have a leatherworking needle) and it feels Cindy and doesn't interrupt your sewing like a metal thimble.
But callouses are NATURE’S thimble 😂
Elizabeth Pitcher, it’s not about how pokey the needle is. The thimble is like a finger brace. It makes it so that you can hand sew for longer periods of time because your finger muscles aren’t getting as tired. Abby Cox put out a video the proper way to hand sew and use a thimble. My hand sewing speed improved after I followed her instruction.
+1!! Love you Mariah but a thimble helps hand sewing so much more and it's good for more people to see people properly using a thimble to hand sew
I am self taught sewing. My mom showed me how to thread a needle and a basic running stich. Everything else I learned on my own. I have been sewing for 22 years without a thimble and no matter how many times I try, it always seems to be more difficult with one. My bare fingers work better. (I use the pinch method, not the push. If that makes sense)
Zippered stays remind me of that rant Agatha Christie goes on in Come, Tell Me How You Live, and how her mother got a pair of zippered stays and couldn't get them off again. Lovely book 😊
Yay! I have to wear a brace for my organ pain from a illness, and instead, im going to make myself a bunch of stays and corsets. I have to move up north to Massachusetts, so I'm going to make myself a nice history bounding wardrobe for the cold 🥶. Since I can't work anymore I can wear whatever I want now! Ha! Time to put these vintage sewing machines I've collected to use! (I just need the brace for pressure and support of my midsection, so I can use corsets to do the same, its not for spinal issues)
You are a good teacher. I really enjoyed your instructions. It is sweet of you to share your talents like this.
DUDE. This is the first video I've watched about stays that has made full sense to my brain. Possibly it's because you're a lefty, so my brain was more inclined to trust your process, or possibly it's that I'm pretty sure I am proportioned almost exactly the same as you are, or maybe it's just that you are an utter wizard who is very good at explaining things, because you are.
The inclusion of both a zipper and the interior cups was absolutely genius, and I appreciate how you went through possible fit issues and how to fix them! I've been wanting to make a pair of stays to support my posture, but lacing in and out of them every day and having to pull them tight on my shorter torso and DDDs is like no thank you (not for everyday wear, that is), but this video is amazing insight and information into a pair that seems both comfortable and convenient if everything fits right.
Thank you for this!!
So glad I found a fellow short-waisted person to watch do fun things!
I love your videos so much! My finger hurts every time you hand sew without a thimble lol. You must have great calluses! I'm adding basically all your videos to my "to do" list. :)
I love how you're making stuff from way back when work for you now. I am very interested in how to draft myself a corset or stays but hesitant because sometimes my asthma flares up when my diaphragm gets restricted, but I really REALLY want to try something like your sports bra stays because I loathe bras. For the record I am a short-waisted non-curvy person (as much as my husband protests otherwise, I kinda measure like a brick with boobs). Also, yay Lefty power! (why I have one good pair of lefty scissors that I use for everything, even though not all of the blade cuts fabric that well anymore)
sounds like a short pair of stays or corset might work great for your body type/asthma needs :)
Did you see Morgan Donner's series on making some stays? Really it was about how she finds her right fit by just making multiple mockups until she likes it.
I too have asthma, am short-waisted, and have a pretty consistent measure from bust to hips. I've wondered whether fabric choices, silhouette, number and placement of bones, as well as type and placement of closures would make a difference. Would it help to vary the fabric stiffness between the top and bottom, have only some panels of a stiffening layer, or something like that? I don't know. I definitely like the short stays though.
@@melissamybubbles6139 I foind a starting point, googled around till I found a pattern for an athletic corset and am currently scaling it up with the intention of making the top half of it!
I'm going to try this. I have no idea where my corsets from my SCA days are. And I am always freezing in the winter. What you're saying about them keeping you warm explains why I never felt that cold when it was raining. 😆
I did find some artificial stays the other week too. I'm inspired now. Thanks.
To make the stays fit better in the lower back, try adding some hip pads in the center back. Worked like a charm for me. Befor my stays forced me into a too rigid posture and poked me in the bum, so I thought I could at least soften the poking with some padding. Turns out it changes the overall curve of the bones and makes the stays much, MUCH more comfortable
I’ve never seen that type of zipper insertion. Definitely gonna try it on my next skirt! It’s such a clean finish
It's also much less fiddly than trying to add the zipper to a nearly finished garment! We were taught in school to do buttons, zippers and h&e first thing if possible
I also love the eighteenth century silhouette. I think it is my favorite.
I love this series so much-I have the same fixation on stays and that 18th century silhouette, so I've been loving this exploration of how we adjust those things for practical, modern, everyday use! I'm really curious about those bust cups-they seem like a really interesting concept, but I'm not sure I understand h ow they work or where they fit into the construction of the stays/the pattern! Would love to see more detail on those in the next iteration, since you said you liked them so much!
Editing the scissors to match the music is going well above and beyond!
You're incredibly talented especially for someone so young. Your old world style and Celtic music makes me feel like we are kindred spirits. Slainte.
i love the idea of the zip, it would be so good for me as currently i have to stand in pain (live with chronic pain and arthritis) while my husband laces me up which takes ages. I would be able to dress myself with these and quickly thereby avoiding pain :)
Your analytical breakdown of things is wonderful
I like your take on historical clothing. It’s fun to see a corset with a zipper.
UA-cam recommending what i need in life, I’m so glad I found you!!!
Sweet! I'm so gonna make those cups for my new corset that doesn't fit well in the bust due to withering away from illness.
Cups wow what a game changer yes I am so doing this in my stays thank you so much!!!1
You've got the most innovative channel, every video feels like an adventure ❤️🥰🌻
Oh I love how they turned out! They give you a beautiful silhouette under your modern clothes! And also 13:26 O_O!! To achieve that cleavage in like 5 seconds!? A dream come true! I have to level up my sewing game and make myself one of those one day! Question: Can you (hand)wash the stays? It would make it SO much more practical for everyday wear
I made them to wear with shifts, so I wasn't really considering washing. But I see no reason why hand washing would damage them. I've never tried washing gum tragacanth though.
@@MariahPattie Oh yes I would not wear it without anything under it but I tend to get quite sweaty sometimes so washing would be a nice additional option. Probably I would change the gum tragacanth to fusible interfacing just to be on the safe side. The outcome is just so genius that it is worth experimenting with!
@@agimagi2158 absolutely, and everyone has individual needs depending on their body/climate/lifestyle
Please please please make a video about shortening the waist on complicated garments!!! I can do it on simple garments (I'm also shortwaisted), but I have never successfully done it on something more complicated.
Oh man! I have so many plans to copy you. Thank you for doing such detailed videos!
I'm hoping to use this adaptation at some point to allow me to make a set of stays or a corset - my arthritic shoulders prevent me from lacing or doing much of anything on my back. But I have a LOT of other sewing to do before I have the time to do an undergarment like this.
This is exactly what I've been looking for tbh
I am always waiting for your next video on modernized stays project and it's a relief that this is not the last one 😊 Good luck and keep up the good work!
Amazing tutorial!! Also the cups!! Girl!! Adding them to my overbusts like right away!!
For the love of all the gods please release a full tutorial with a downloadable pattern when you work out all the details! I am in LOVE with this journey you have set afoot.
Oh my god, I absolutely love how you synced the sound at 1:30 with your cutting!!!
I made a zipped corset at the start of summer and love it, so much quicker. Would love to make some stays now as well!
This is fascinating. And something I've been toying with trying. Have you thought about a quilted pair of bodies for the heat retention? Granted it an earlier era (1550-1600 or so. Maybe a bit later). You still get some basic boning, but there is a padding layer of batting and it gets quilted for good insulation.
quilted stays are absolutely on my list, but I'd like to have just one great pattern that I could use for different kinds of stays for different seasons.
Every time I watch a corset/stays making video I understand what's happening a little bit more and feel less intimidated to try it. I really want to get better at sewing so I can make my own corset soon :)
Perhaps you could try crossing a corset with stays (in terms of using the corset style lacing) with the zippered front.
I love your combination of aesthetic and informative; I am always so excited to see your video pop up!
I just watch your vids for the clothing construction ideas. These videos are great. Thanks for 'em.
I'd love more information on the skirt you put on at the end.
Wow this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Love this print! Congrats on launching your channel.
This is everything!!!! Oh my gosh it’s like you read my mind and put out the perfect video! I learned so much!
This is exactly the kind of history bounding tutorials i’ve been looking!!
It's like the pair claire made in outlander! When she comes back after Brianna was born!
can neither confirm nor deny any Outlander influences 😉
I just discovered your channel. You make me almost stop hating my short torso! It would be amazing to wear tucked in shirts!
I love this take on modernized historical garments! A project I'm planning for the near future is trying short stays as a modern bra and how to make that work. I'm really curious about a short type of shift shirt that would work under stays without showing or adding too much bulk
For bulk, you can cut it slimmer, with less gathers, but it really comes down to the fabric. You want super lightweight linen or cotton. Batiste, voile, or lawn cotton, or lightweight Burnley & Trowbridge linen are my favorites. You might already know that, but my first chemise/drawers set were from bleached muslin, and they were super bulky.
@@MariahPattie thanks so much! I'm looking forward to the next video in your modern series!
This is a step forward in the improvement of humanity.
I just saw a video about bending corset bones in the back area to fit curves better. By Lucy's corsetry.
Such a great video, I've been wanting someone to guide me through how to make one of these corsets, as the patterns look so confusing, and I've only done much simpler ones. Thank you for all the explanation and demonstration as to why it is structured that way and what each bit does. So useful, thank you 🙏.
Your corsets look really great - how they're made and on you... I have to say I never considered people wanting to wear them daily in modern times as expected them to be uncomfortable, so thats quite an insight!
I'm really enjoying watching your filming and editing quality improve :) It makes it much easier to comprehend the details in your awesome sewing. I'm not really that into the 18th C silhouette, but every video you put out on stays pulls me closer and closer.... they look so comfy.... and i hate the cold too.... could i....
Your aesthetic and interests are so similar to mine! Absolutely love watching you complete these projects at a speed I can only dream of with all of my other time obligations. Definitely picking up some hints that will be useful as I continue my own historically inspired wardrobe.
Trying my first 18th century stays! So excited. Using the american duchess simplicity pattern because I'm lazy and poor so Patterns of Fashion is more than I am willing to pay.
Totally cool. It’s good to get sewing experience anywhere you can find it, and POF5 is really better for deeper research and understanding, less for the exact patterns.
Your videos are so calming and fun. :)
How you are doing projects I have been seriously thinking about? This is so awesome! Thank you! I also sew on singer treadle. It's newer than yours, but still sewing on an old machine. 🙂
I love how it turned out!
You are so right about short waisted people, I'm short waisted and I hate the way I look with shirts tucked in I would love to try making a zippered stays but I just don't think I'm a good enough sewer yet
Very informative. Like you, I wear layers in the winter. Your modern take on stays, looks like a great idea. I will be making a pair for me. I am a bit round in the middle and stays will make my clothes look better on me.
This looks awesome! I need this in my life!
And, those boob pillows are such a great idea. I think I will test if thy can make my 19th mid bust corset fit a bit better. I even have some bra underwire laying around, I could make some underwired pillows for ideal boobie support
I have a large bust and small ribcage. I've been considering making something like this. Bras just aren't comfortable
I love seeing someone else interested in making 18th century clothing and underwear be practical with modern clothing! I am just at the planning stages for my 18th century wear so this is fun to watch! Have you tried to wear your stays with pants? I wear a lot of high waisted jeans and want them to still be accessible for me
These wouldn’t be great with pants because of the tabs. I’m working on a new pair now that’s a hybrid between corset and stays to eliminate the tabs.
@@MariahPattie I’ll be curious what you come up with as I was hoping the tabs wouldn’t be an issue since I’m wanting something that doesn’t cut in anywhere around my hip area. The softness of the tabs seem ideal. I’ll keep an eye out for what you come up with!
I'm going to make cups for my stays now, because I find my stays don't give much support without making it hard to breath. Thanks so much for the tip! :)
I The music is like Witcher meets game of thrones meets outlander its amazing. I will really try this as an alternative for my first attempt thank you friend
I love your sewing machine!
Well, I wasn't considering a similar project until this video.... time to add it to the list! I LOVE this idea!
So, I thought this video was a tutorial on how to make one of those trendy new "casual corset looks." And after watching this video, I still think that these stays can be worn casually, as a top and a jacket over them. I know, *gasp* wearing underwear out?! I still think it would be doable. Definitely add a shift or some other top underneath.
... soooo i'm going to have to learn how to sew stays cause i want a pair of these, they look comfy and easy to wear! (with the right fit of course) im only treading into sewing at the moment so maybe sometime in the future I'll have the skills to follow along this tutorial!
Very interesting and knowledgeable....I love the zipper and how that function..great idea...look forward to all your videos...thanks for sharing....