Boost charge controllers are rare devices still. Much more common is the buck charge controller; this is what MPPT does, along with the power tracking. In general, voltage and amperage can be adjusted in proportion to one another, so you could have 12 volts at 10 amps, which would be the same power as 24 volts at 5 amps, or 2.5 amps at 48 volts. The larger the adjustment made by the device, the less efficient the conversion, in general, so it is good practice to keep your panel voltage output close (but higher) in voltage to your battery bank's voltage. Other concerns are wiring losses, wire and controller ampacity, etc, so we often go higher than ideal on our panel output voltage in order to avoid huge wires and enormous and expensive charge controllers while harvesting the same amount of power. Jeff, you already know all these things I say, so my comments are mostly for those that are learning about these technologies; a different way of explaining things will often get people past a confusing aspect. Just like sailing itself, sometimes mobile electrical systems require a lot of tacking to get where you're going, and just like sailing, the process is 1/2 the adventure. :)
Tao, thanks for sharing, different perspectives and different ways of explaining ourselves, helps ALL of us (including me too) understand the concepts better, really appreciate it.
@@PacificYachtSystems My pleasure Sir. I share your passion for the subject. I get a bit long-winded trying to be clear. Hopefully I don't bore too many of your subs. :)
I can't find any Boost style controllers from Victron. Only the "buck" style. Am I searching for the wrong thing? I'm specifically trying to use Victron as I'd like to get all of the components communicating with each other and all on the same smart phone app.
You said Victron has these boost chargers. Which ones? I got a SmartSolar MPPT 48V, and it said since my panels were 30V, I couldn't charge the batteries since I wasn't +5V above the battery voltage. WTF? Everywhere I read, said it would work. Did I get scammed and got something else like maybe a BlueSolar or something?
The "was" such a thing as a solar panel that hooked right up to a battery. 25watt ARCO solar panel. 1983. Open curcuit is 16 volts and all you need is a diode. Had 2 of these, but only have one now. Dad gave them to me 40 years ago. They were test panels from work. Freeze and Heat, Freeze and heat... I'm glad to only use them very little. Had one hooked up to a car stereo directly, no battery. Sun would come up and radio would start playing. Neato huh?
I have designed, and almost ready to test a solar system using Boost (Buck) Converters to boost my 12v battery Bank voltage to 48 vdc. I know it is easier, with solar panels, to charge at 48V. But solar panels require more sun to produce 48v than 12v. So, I plan to charge the battery banks at12v and Boost convert the battery bank 12v output to 48 volts for input into the solar Combiner and then to the Charge Controllers.
Nice video,epleaned...I have questions :Is it possible to charge a solar battery with a car charger or must be sollar charger {elektric 240 v-12 volts}...2 question: How do I find out that my solar battery is totally bad {200Ah} that it can no longer be charged?...Thank you for your answer,,, with respect, Andrej
must be to early for me, I looked at your clip board and realized I could make solar powered clipboards that shock people if they walk out into the sun. Don't steal my clip board :)
I call it the "Inside only" clipboard. add a battery and change the solar pannel for a light detector and you can make the outside only clipboard that shocks you if it don't detect enough light :) keep the rangers outside.
It's like you're one step ahead of my mind...Crazy! What specific models from victron do this? Can the 100|20 (48v) use a 12v panel and charge the 48v battery bank? I always thought it needed to be 5ish volts over the battery bank voltage to initiate bulk charging. Or does that controller just do the magical conversion for it to work correctly? Thanks again!
Genasun GVB makes boost controllers for 12V, 24V, & 48V batteries, both Pb and Li. Unfortunately the Victron MPPTs are "buck" (lower the input voltage to battery voltage) vs "boost"
@@MarkPingel Jeff is a busy guy! Hi might have just mixed up Genasun & Victron in his head for a moment. Note that Victron DOES make a great number of 48V "buck" controllers...for panel arrays that are high enough voltage. Victron MPPTs need battery voltage +5V from the solar panels to turn on, and batt. V +2V to keep running effectively.
@@oceanplanetenergy Oh I know...I can only imagine how busy he is! I'm VERY familiar with the victron MPPT's. I own a few (And read the manuals many times!)
I got 2 100w/20.3v/5.9A solar panels, hooked up to a MPPT 100/20 SmartSolar from Victron that will automatically select 12/24/48. However, this isn’t enough. I can’t simply hook one panel up and expect it to work, I realized this now after I bought it all. I have to connect the panels in series to match up the nominal voltage of the battery, so I have to unfortunately change up the setting.
Even in series, your max voltage will be below 48V. Controllers need more than that, to "control" it to 48V. So, you prabably needed one more panel. How did you finally solve that?
Hi Jeff I am planning to add solar and lithium batteries to my boat. All my existing equipment is 12 volt but ultimately I want to have a 48 volt electric motor and a 48 volt windless. I am thinking that I can connect solar to a 48 volt battery bank and the use a DC to DC charger to charge the 12 volt battery bank. What would you do?
You said victron make a 12v to 48v DC to DC charger....what is it called I came back for an edit.....I'm trying to charge my 48v victron system with my 12v altinator....for top up when I'm driving....it will run off a 200amp victron 3 way isolator....1 for car battery 2 for duel battery in the back 3 for caravan 48 volt I did think about using 2 12v to 24 volt step up and wire the outputs in series to get 48 volts
There is another way the could save you money in the long run. If your 12VDC Pb batteries are connected in series to form a 48VDC battery bank. Connecting 48VDC charger to the first battery in a series of 4 x 12vdc battery bank, is not always the optimum solution. Charging that way can cause some batteries to be overcharged and fail first quicker than the rest of the batteries in the bank. Unless you optimise the charging connection point to try and even out the charge to all batteries in the bank. However, you can connect your 12vdc MPPT solar controller to one of the 12VDC batteries that are in series. You then have to use 4 cascading Pb battery equalizers/balancers. They cost around $20 US each and you need four of them. Each balancer connects to a battery in the series and has connections for the next cascading balancer. Using this method, unlimited batteries in the bank can be balanced. Essentially the balancers are what is also commonly referred to as a BMS (Battery Management System). Although you must use Balancers that are specifically made for the type of batteries in the bank you are using (Lead Acid, Lithium etc...) Connect the balancers to your batteries as described in the instructions, and the balancers will ensure all the batteries get the optimum charge, by sharing their charge amongst each other through the balancers . Of course the battery balance method using a 12VDC MPPT solar Controller solution, is a little more expensive as opposed to just buying a 48VDC capable MPPT solar Controller for $35 US. It can however avoid costly expenses in battery failures. Especially if the electrical characteristics of one of the batteries in the bank does not match the rest of the batteries. Generally the first batteries in the bank are the most susceptible to overcharging, and will fail first under a non balanced system. Batteries are not always exactly the same, sometimes voltages can vary among each battery, even if they are rated the same, and the same brand model etc...Some also charge faster/slower than others. This is where the balancers also work at optimizing the bank so all the batteries behave equally as much as possible, ensuring loads are distributed evenly. This is a very common facet amongst batteries that are not "A" graded, and as a result are drastically reduced in price depicting a "Discounted Bargain". Using the balancing method is very effective at preserving battery life, however, you may still need to change the battery you designate as being connected to the 12vDC MPPT Solar Controller, periodically. This ensures all the batteries get a fair go in the charging process to additionally minimize battery failures . I advise changing the charging connection to a different battery at least once every 1-2 months, although it will still be working well for longer periods. If there was a device out there that could do the battery charger connection swap automatically, it would be awesome, however I have not found one yet.
@@PacificYachtSystems If you look on AliExpress there is this type: There are two types available, a 6V, and a 12V version. I use 4 of the 12V versions cascaded. I like this version, due to it's flexibility and scaleable ability. "QNBBM 12V Lead Acid Battery Equalizer Balancer BMS" You can basically use an unlimited amount of batteries in your bank. I only use the batteries to a maximum of 30% DOD (Depth Of Discharge). I have a bank of 4 x 12V AGM batteries configured as a 48V Bank (4 sets of 12VDC in series, total 48V 75 AMPS). I have been desulfating the batteries once every 6 months. Using the AGM batteries that way, they should last 4+ years at the very least, or 1600 cycles at 30% DOD maximum. I have been using the bank for more than a year now with no maintenance required, other than desulfating. And it still performs like new. So long as i only keep discharging the bank at a rate of 7.5 amps per hour at 48vdc maximum, for no more than 3 hours. I can also switch to 12VDC, or 24VDC operation by tapping the batteries at their appropriate places in circuit. The Battery balancers keep making sure the whole bank performs equally. The bank is fed by 2 x 220 Watt solar panels at the moment, and the whole system is just a prototype for something else I am working on. So far I can convert water to hydrogen and oxygen for cooking, heating and boiling water. And the rest of the power runs some computers and lighting. I would like to use any surplus power coming from the Solar Panels somehow, and i am working on that. Ideally the battery bank once charged up and full, should switch with an appropriate circuit to a huge capacitor that can temporarily run the solar controller through and tap electricity straight from the capacitor to power an inverter unit via a sophisticated voltage regulator circuit I am designing. If the weather switches to cloud cover, the circuit would then switch back to battery and visa versa. The batteries would only then be used at night, or to kick start the hydrogen generator. I am still working on it's design however. People probably think, Why doesn't he use Lithium Technology? I originally purchased the AGM batteries very cheap and brand new. They were so cheap that Lithium was far more expensive at the time. Even the new Lifepo4 Lithium batteries. Originally I did some tests using a huge homemade capacitor that was fed by the Solar Panels. The Capacitor held a decent charge, although it's voltage lowered to that of the Solar Panel voltage. Later I realised that I need to create a kind of self regulating Buck Booster circuit to charge the capacitor, even though the voltages coming from the Solar Panels varied anywhere from 5 to 18 Volts DC. The capacitor would only charge up to a voltage equal to the voltage supplied to it by the Solar Panels. So if the panels maintained a voltage of say 18vdc, then lowered to 5VDC, that capacitor would conform to only a 5VDC voltage. I then started designing a circuit that will convert the voltage to 13.8 volts DC regardless of input voltage range of 5-18vdc. Otherwise the inverter cannot draw a steady 12 Volts from the capacitor when the battery bank gets switched over to it. I worked out that it's cheaper to build the capacitor as a temporary power storage unit than using batteries. Of course it only stores electricity for some hours. And the capacitor is quite large and heavy. Although hours is enough to get over cloud covering portions of the day and gives the electrical setup a "buffer" to work with. If it works eventually as i plan it, additional capacitors can be added to the system. I think I might just get a cheap Solar Controller and hook the Capacitor right up to it like a battery. What's the worst that can happen?
thanks found that very useful as a beginer i have a victron controler 70/15 whats the max watt of the panels i can use or is there a max volts of all the panels? thanks again svhappymondays
Victron mppt controllers actually do not boost the voltage and only start when solar is more than 5V above batteries. At least that's what victron told me.
Exactly, at the moment Victron doesn't make a boost controller. In other words, the panel array voltage has to exceed the battery voltage by 5 volts to work.
Definitely, conversion as a cost. The higher the input voltage the less voltage drop matters, but you don't want to have too high of a DC voltage as it's unsafe. Probably under 50 volts is a good compromise.
I Have a wind turbine 3 phase ac, It came with a 48v charge controller, but the motor dosent spin fast enouth to get to 48v, how do I boost the voltage on 3phase ac?
hi, I recently bought a bluetti ac200p (a power station) and it can be only charged via solar that is between 35V-150V open-circuit voltage. my question is that I have a 12v 200watt solar panel, I wondered if I can just wire it to a solar regulator and boost it up to 24v in order to increase the open-circuit voltage and charge the unit? thank you
can you tell me how a pv array in series as follows voc 40.66 x 6=243.96 v with 10.52 amps (Isc) being 2,040 w can charge a 48v power bank (9.6kwh) with a charging capacity of 58.8v and max amp of 100? The MPPT charge comptroller is rated for 80amps and 600v to charge 24v , 48v battery etc. My head is hurting right now maybe you can help it to go away. Thanks
Hi Geoffrey, you are definitely considering the right things, the solar controller needs to have the correct input solar array voltage, battery voltage, and also max amperage. If you cannot find a controller that meets this large array requirements, breakdown the array in smaller parts and wire those smaller arrays to the correct controller.
Boost charge controllers are rare devices still. Much more common is the buck charge controller; this is what MPPT does, along with the power tracking. In general, voltage and amperage can be adjusted in proportion to one another, so you could have 12 volts at 10 amps, which would be the same power as 24 volts at 5 amps, or 2.5 amps at 48 volts. The larger the adjustment made by the device, the less efficient the conversion, in general, so it is good practice to keep your panel voltage output close (but higher) in voltage to your battery bank's voltage. Other concerns are wiring losses, wire and controller ampacity, etc, so we often go higher than ideal on our panel output voltage in order to avoid huge wires and enormous and expensive charge controllers while harvesting the same amount of power. Jeff, you already know all these things I say, so my comments are mostly for those that are learning about these technologies; a different way of explaining things will often get people past a confusing aspect. Just like sailing itself, sometimes mobile electrical systems require a lot of tacking to get where you're going, and just like sailing, the process is 1/2 the adventure. :)
Tao, thanks for sharing, different perspectives and different ways of explaining ourselves, helps ALL of us (including me too) understand the concepts better, really appreciate it.
@@PacificYachtSystems My pleasure Sir. I share your passion for the subject. I get a bit long-winded trying to be clear. Hopefully I don't bore too many of your subs. :)
I can't find any Boost style controllers from Victron. Only the "buck" style. Am I searching for the wrong thing? I'm specifically trying to use Victron as I'd like to get all of the components communicating with each other and all on the same smart phone app.
You said Victron has these boost chargers. Which ones? I got a SmartSolar MPPT 48V, and it said since my panels were 30V, I couldn't charge the batteries since I wasn't +5V above the battery voltage. WTF? Everywhere I read, said it would work. Did I get scammed and got something else like maybe a BlueSolar or something?
Thank you sir for keeping this video short
Most welcome
Can you use a regulator instead of a controller?
The "was" such a thing as a solar panel that hooked right up to a battery. 25watt ARCO solar panel. 1983. Open curcuit is 16 volts and all you need is a diode. Had 2 of these, but only have one now. Dad gave them to me 40 years ago. They were test panels from work. Freeze and Heat, Freeze and heat...
I'm glad to only use them very little. Had one hooked up to a car stereo directly, no battery. Sun would come up and radio would start playing. Neato huh?
Thank you for this great answer! Do you know if the booster will output exactly 48v or do they go up to 54v+ to charge our Li-ion battery packs 13S5P?
I have designed, and almost ready to test a solar system using Boost (Buck) Converters to boost my 12v battery Bank voltage to 48 vdc. I know it is easier, with solar panels, to charge at 48V. But solar panels require more sun to produce 48v than 12v. So, I plan to charge the battery banks at12v and Boost convert the battery bank 12v output to 48 volts for input into the solar Combiner and then to the Charge Controllers.
Great sound today!
Good one, appreciate the feedback.
Nice video,epleaned...I have questions :Is it possible to charge a solar battery with a car charger or must be sollar charger {elektric 240 v-12 volts}...2 question: How do I find out that my solar battery is totally bad {200Ah} that it can no longer be charged?...Thank you for your answer,,, with respect, Andrej
must be to early for me, I looked at your clip board and realized I could make solar powered clipboards that shock people if they walk out into the sun. Don't steal my clip board :)
I call it the "Inside only" clipboard. add a battery and change the solar pannel for a light detector and you can make the outside only clipboard that shocks you if it don't detect enough light :) keep the rangers outside.
A short video straight to the topic?
Have my likes and shares!
Thank you!
How many solar I need ] 8 pics battery 125 ah 48 volt
How to charge my 48v ebike with a portable solar panel or like a bond paper size panel? At least charge a little while I park...
Thank you sir
It's like you're one step ahead of my mind...Crazy! What specific models from victron do this? Can the 100|20 (48v) use a 12v panel and charge the 48v battery bank? I always thought it needed to be 5ish volts over the battery bank voltage to initiate bulk charging. Or does that controller just do the magical conversion for it to work correctly? Thanks again!
Genasun GVB makes boost controllers for 12V, 24V, & 48V batteries, both Pb and Li. Unfortunately the Victron MPPTs are "buck" (lower the input voltage to battery voltage) vs "boost"
@@OceanPlanet60 Time to do some more nerdy research...Thanks for the heads up! I'm curious why Jeff said Victron made some?
@@MarkPingel Jeff is a busy guy! Hi might have just mixed up Genasun & Victron in his head for a moment. Note that Victron DOES make a great number of 48V "buck" controllers...for panel arrays that are high enough voltage. Victron MPPTs need battery voltage +5V from the solar panels to turn on, and batt. V +2V to keep running effectively.
@@oceanplanetenergy Oh I know...I can only imagine how busy he is! I'm VERY familiar with the victron MPPT's. I own a few (And read the manuals many times!)
Thanks OPE!
I got 2 100w/20.3v/5.9A solar panels, hooked up to a MPPT 100/20 SmartSolar from Victron that will automatically select 12/24/48. However, this isn’t enough. I can’t simply hook one panel up and expect it to work, I realized this now after I bought it all. I have to connect the panels in series to match up the nominal voltage of the battery, so I have to unfortunately change up the setting.
Even in series, your max voltage will be below 48V. Controllers need more than that, to "control" it to 48V. So, you prabably needed one more panel. How did you finally solve that?
MPT-7210A can realize boost to charge the battery, input 15-60V to charge the battery of 24V 36V 48V 60V
Hi Jeff
I am planning to add solar and lithium batteries to my boat. All my existing equipment is 12 volt but ultimately I want to have a 48 volt electric motor and a 48 volt windless. I am thinking that I can connect solar to a 48 volt battery bank and the use a DC to DC charger to charge the 12 volt battery bank. What would you do?
You said victron make a 12v to 48v DC to DC charger....what is it called
I came back for an edit.....I'm trying to charge my 48v victron system with my 12v altinator....for top up when I'm driving....it will run off a 200amp victron 3 way isolator....1 for car battery 2 for duel battery in the back
3 for caravan 48 volt
I did think about using 2 12v to 24 volt step up and wire the outputs in series to get 48 volts
Thanks for this Jeff, but I haven't found any marine MPPT controllers that boost the input voltage - do you have to do PWM?
Genasun GVB boost controllers! I know that Jeff sells them.
@@OceanPlanet60 Thanks for your reply Bruce! You're a bonified authority! ;-)
Thanks Bruce for weighing in, yep the Genasun make a great MPPT boost controller, we've installed lots, including some on my boat.
There is another way the could save you money in the long run.
If your 12VDC Pb batteries are connected in series to form a 48VDC battery bank.
Connecting 48VDC charger to the first battery in a series of 4 x 12vdc battery bank, is not always the optimum solution.
Charging that way can cause some batteries to be overcharged and fail first quicker than the rest of the batteries in the bank.
Unless you optimise the charging connection point to try and even out the charge to all batteries in the bank.
However, you can connect your 12vdc MPPT solar controller to one of the 12VDC batteries that are in series.
You then have to use 4 cascading Pb battery equalizers/balancers. They cost around $20 US each and you need four of them.
Each balancer connects to a battery in the series and has connections for the next cascading balancer.
Using this method, unlimited batteries in the bank can be balanced.
Essentially the balancers are what is also commonly referred to as a BMS (Battery Management System). Although you must use Balancers that are specifically made for the type of batteries in the bank you are using (Lead Acid, Lithium etc...)
Connect the balancers to your batteries as described in the instructions, and the balancers will ensure all the batteries get the optimum charge, by sharing their charge amongst each other through the balancers .
Of course the battery balance method using a 12VDC MPPT solar Controller solution, is a little more expensive as opposed to just buying a 48VDC capable MPPT solar Controller for $35 US.
It can however avoid costly expenses in battery failures.
Especially if the electrical characteristics of one of the batteries in the bank does not match the rest of the batteries.
Generally the first batteries in the bank are the most susceptible to overcharging, and will fail first under a non balanced system.
Batteries are not always exactly the same, sometimes voltages can vary among each battery, even if they are rated the same, and the same brand model etc...Some also charge faster/slower than others.
This is where the balancers also work at optimizing the bank so all the batteries behave equally as much as possible, ensuring loads are distributed evenly.
This is a very common facet amongst batteries that are not "A" graded, and as a result are drastically reduced in price depicting a "Discounted Bargain".
Using the balancing method is very effective at preserving battery life, however, you may still need to change the battery you designate as being connected to the 12vDC MPPT Solar Controller, periodically.
This ensures all the batteries get a fair go in the charging process to additionally minimize battery failures .
I advise changing the charging connection to a different battery at least once every 1-2 months, although it will still be working well for longer periods.
If there was a device out there that could do the battery charger connection swap automatically, it would be awesome, however I have not found one yet.
Thanks Gene for the thorough explanation. Which battery balancer have you used before and tell us what you like about it.
@@PacificYachtSystems If you look on AliExpress there is this type:
There are two types available, a 6V, and a 12V version.
I use 4 of the 12V versions cascaded.
I like this version, due to it's flexibility and scaleable ability.
"QNBBM 12V Lead Acid Battery Equalizer Balancer BMS"
You can basically use an unlimited amount of batteries in your bank.
I only use the batteries to a maximum of 30% DOD (Depth Of Discharge).
I have a bank of 4 x 12V AGM batteries configured as a 48V Bank (4 sets of 12VDC in series, total 48V 75 AMPS).
I have been desulfating the batteries once every 6 months.
Using the AGM batteries that way, they should last 4+ years at the very least, or 1600 cycles at 30% DOD maximum.
I have been using the bank for more than a year now with no maintenance required, other than desulfating.
And it still performs like new.
So long as i only keep discharging the bank at a rate of 7.5 amps per hour at 48vdc maximum, for no more than 3 hours.
I can also switch to 12VDC, or 24VDC operation by tapping the batteries at their appropriate places in circuit.
The Battery balancers keep making sure the whole bank performs equally.
The bank is fed by 2 x 220 Watt solar panels at the moment, and the whole system is just a prototype for something else I am working on.
So far I can convert water to hydrogen and oxygen for cooking, heating and boiling water. And the rest of the power runs some computers and lighting.
I would like to use any surplus power coming from the Solar Panels somehow, and i am working on that.
Ideally the battery bank once charged up and full, should switch with an appropriate circuit to a huge capacitor that can temporarily run the solar controller through and tap electricity straight from the capacitor to power an inverter unit via a sophisticated voltage regulator circuit I am designing.
If the weather switches to cloud cover, the circuit would then switch back to battery and visa versa.
The batteries would only then be used at night, or to kick start the hydrogen generator.
I am still working on it's design however.
People probably think, Why doesn't he use Lithium Technology?
I originally purchased the AGM batteries very cheap and brand new.
They were so cheap that Lithium was far more expensive at the time. Even the new Lifepo4 Lithium batteries.
Originally I did some tests using a huge homemade capacitor that was fed by the Solar Panels.
The Capacitor held a decent charge, although it's voltage lowered to that of the Solar Panel voltage.
Later I realised that I need to create a kind of self regulating Buck Booster circuit to charge the capacitor, even though the voltages coming from the Solar Panels varied anywhere from 5 to 18 Volts DC.
The capacitor would only charge up to a voltage equal to the voltage supplied to it by the Solar Panels.
So if the panels maintained a voltage of say 18vdc, then lowered to 5VDC, that capacitor would conform to only a 5VDC voltage.
I then started designing a circuit that will convert the voltage to 13.8 volts DC regardless of input voltage range of 5-18vdc.
Otherwise the inverter cannot draw a steady 12 Volts from the capacitor when the battery bank gets switched over to it.
I worked out that it's cheaper to build the capacitor as a temporary power storage unit than using batteries.
Of course it only stores electricity for some hours. And the capacitor is quite large and heavy.
Although hours is enough to get over cloud covering portions of the day and gives the electrical setup a "buffer" to work with.
If it works eventually as i plan it, additional capacitors can be added to the system.
I think I might just get a cheap Solar Controller and hook the Capacitor right up to it like a battery.
What's the worst that can happen?
I would just use two pannels hook them up in series with a blocking diode
thanks found that very useful as a beginer
i have a victron controler 70/15 whats the max watt of the panels i can use or is there a max volts of all the panels? thanks again svhappymondays
The Victron 75/10 is max 145 watts at 12 volts.
How to order a 48v regulator for Gm 10SI Hy
Trying to solar a 48 volt golf cart. I watched a video where the guy wired the panels neg to pos to up the voltage. Is that the way to do it?
Yes you can put them in series to increase the solar voltage. You need a controller that can handle that input voltage.
Victron mppt controllers actually do not boost the voltage and only start when solar is more than 5V above batteries. At least that's what victron told me.
Exactly, at the moment Victron doesn't make a boost controller. In other words, the panel array voltage has to exceed the battery voltage by 5 volts to work.
Every time you step or step down the voltage there are losses. What is the most efficient input voltage?
Definitely, conversion as a cost. The higher the input voltage the less voltage drop matters, but you don't want to have too high of a DC voltage as it's unsafe. Probably under 50 volts is a good compromise.
I Have a wind turbine 3 phase ac, It came with a 48v charge controller, but the motor dosent spin fast enouth to get to 48v, how do I boost the voltage on 3phase ac?
Good question Lucas, but that is definitely outside my knowledge, sorry.
hi, I recently bought a bluetti ac200p (a power station) and it can be only charged via solar that is between 35V-150V open-circuit voltage. my question is that I have a 12v 200watt solar panel, I wondered if I can just wire it to a solar regulator and boost it up to 24v in order to increase the open-circuit voltage and charge the unit? thank you
can you tell me how a pv array in series as follows voc 40.66 x 6=243.96 v with 10.52 amps (Isc) being 2,040 w can charge a 48v power bank (9.6kwh) with a charging capacity of 58.8v and max amp of 100? The MPPT charge comptroller is rated for 80amps and 600v to charge 24v , 48v battery etc. My head is hurting right now maybe you can help it to go away.
Thanks
Hi Geoffrey, you are definitely considering the right things, the solar controller needs to have the correct input solar array voltage, battery voltage, and also max amperage. If you cannot find a controller that meets this large array requirements, breakdown the array in smaller parts and wire those smaller arrays to the correct controller.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thanks for the reply
I believe Boost Converter and Buck converter is the same.
Boost is to up the voltage and buck is to lower the voltage
Two different curcits (but kind the same) :)
how does hooking up a bunch of 12V panels to a boost controller affect efficiency, as compared to wiring the panels in series to get to 48V?
Either way, you'll need a MPPT controller to convert the solar output 12 or 48 to be the exact voltage your batteries need.
Ok
Now same question but my 60v battery (scooter)
I'd say find a 60v mppt controller, if they exist, but I'm no expert.
Never did a 60 volt system before, but the concepts are the same.
Where are the solar panels for 36 volt 48 volt and 54 road 60 volt 90 volt 100 volt panels for 36 volt battery 40 volt battery 60 volt
:)
Tks!