From a year ago, doing my first system, I've learned to use several smaller setups instead of trying to run one massive system. Just like your grid power has several lines, I've set up 3 sets of panel-controller-batteries systems, and am very happy with the results. Your video helped my thinking that led to this... Thanks again!!🙌🙌
planecrazyish Good luck!! 👏👏 One thing I did was to use lower power per system, but I bought quality equipment, and didn't buy cheap stuff and defeat the purpose of efficiency.
GOOD IDEA!! Make sure you GROUND those Fckers!! I too have a small 2nd system with a motley crew of leftovers .. 1200 watt on pannels, 4 used AGMs and due to one of the 4 being a bit-O-ch by not charging the same, maintaining a charge.. (it's damaged when I got the 4) I'm forced to use a 12v setup.. .. still.. it's a few hour(s) backup! So rock on!
I have watched dozens of YT videos in my quest to understand not just the advantage of a 24 volt battery, but how that advantage manifests itself across the rest of your entire system. I had planned to use a 4000w inverter just because I wanted to overkill since the difference in the cost was nominal. Finally, a simple video that focused on the details I need to understand. Thanks for sharing. I will be checking out the rest of your videos with high expectations! :)
I found this video for off grid systems, yet the information made me wonder about audio systems that run 10,000 watts on 12 v systems? Thank you for being clear and concise! Great stuff!
I'm reading and trying hard to absorb all the design concepts of off-grid solar. This was simple but it really made a couple of other concepts click for me. Thanks!
This is a great video and you explained it very well I’ve been looking at a lot of videos on solar systems and no one has broken down like that. Thank you
Excellent explanation. I did much research and decided to go with a 24 volt system and a 3500 watt inverter. As you said no reputable inverter manufacturer will sell a 4000+ watt 12 volt inverter. Granted, 3500 watts is an overkill for my needs but my system was initially designed for residential use and I have instead repurposed it to power my RV when boon docking. Thanks for this video. I wish I had seen it when building my system. There is not much info out there explaining the benefits of a 24 or 48 volt system. So far, it has served me well. Thanks again for a very informative video.
System planning is the important factor here. My 24V system has a 1kW pure sine LF inverter, 400Ah FLA battery, 1140W of mono solar panels through a 40A MPPT. To draw 1kW takes 40A off my 24V supply, which is 1/10 of its available capacity. In strong sunshine, my battery is at float, so I can draw 1kW from the panels, and the battery stays full. I could draw 2 kW from the system to do laundry in strong sunshine if required, but not at night, so the battery stays happy. (40A from panels, 40A from battery). No heavy loads after dark, only draw big current in full sunlight. My battery is Lead acid, so I try to avoid using more than 15% of it's total capacity, and recharge asap.
nlo114 your 40a controller may be limiting your system to 960w since 40a * 24v = 960w but your stem at 1140w / 24v = 47.5a, which indicates you be using a 50a ( or 60a ) charge controller.
Great video as a 35 year electrician you explain it very well, the one thing I would have touch on would be cable sizing I've seen so many videos from so call off grid people using undersize cables on input side of the invertor with no disconnect or fuses, to just plain foolish. Just putting in my 2 cents worth
Edgar Acosta Reminds me of a young man offering his car and battery cables to jump start my 1997 Dodge Ram Passenger van turned camper. Couldn’t get the jump going as his cables were real skinny and probably a drug store $4.95 jumper cable. Pulled out my really thick Home Depot super special cables and connected them and vroom, start up. So, practically speaking thicker cables can make a lot of difference. Don’t ask about my trying to separate a torn sparking wire with a 12 inch screw driver. :)
Edgar, a question I have regarding wire gauges or size is simply can you use oversized wiring just to be safe, or is that frowned upon and let's keep cost out of the decision, just to keep it simple. Thanks for any input you may have but feel no obligation...
@@jackrodgersjr evidently you didn't understand his comment. He stated the very thing you tried to talk trash about! Hilarious! Learn to read before u you make retarded comments.
Finally someone to break it down simply . Thankyou. I've got a off grid cabin I'm remodeling and making it full off grid. . Power is too expensive to bring in.
Thank you for making this video, so well explained and wish this was the first one that I viewed luckily I have purchased 24v panels . Again thanks for your efforts
Superb video. You nailed it. I have done tons of research and no one told me so clearly about amp draw relative to volt sizing. Greta job we are indebted to you sir!!!!
very good example, however the important is that the higher the battery set voltage the higher the incoming charge parameters will be. meaning a longer time to reach the optimal charge input by the array and the controller. be safe, Raz
Great explanation. I just got done watching a video where the guy had 6000watts inverter at 12v....lol....and it wasn't working and he didn't realy know why... I dont want to discourage anyone but people can really get them selves into a dangerous situation. When I started I knew nothing but I read alot and did find information stating I shouldn't exceed 2000w at 12v. And I went from there. Your video explains this very clearly. My advice to anyone now is just skip straight to 48v systems. The components are very good now
wow the autoplay was turned on. I was trying to find this exact answer, watched a bunch of videos and read a bunch of websites with no clear simple answer. gave up was doing paperwork and I hear your voice in the background tell the answer. lol. great video thanks!
Nice video man. I have a note on your explanation. Amps = watts divided by volts so 2000w inverter divided by 12v equals 166 amps. I have a pv system of 1000w 4 trojan t105re batteries a mppt controller 40 amp and a pure sine inverter 1500 watts on a 12v system. In maximum load 1480watt I consume 123 amps. I have 35 mm square cables that work well. Small systems are on 12v the medium on 24v and the big ones on 48v.
Yep All good .. but you batteries won't last .. You Cook off the water .. Ooh did you just think you can Cook by chardging .. Nop .... It Will also Cook by over using
I am needing to up grade my inverter and battery bank larger power from a 12v 255 ah batteries and a Aims 1500 watt inverter that couldn't handle running a mini frig and a small fan during summer or small heater in winter. Now that I want to try and connect the A/C that ran off my RV's alternator/batteries system to switch it between that set up onto just solar/battery bank when boon docking off-grid, I have to go bigger. I am so glad I found your video with this very valuable info. on what size of inverter to get for the size of system I should be running appliances etc. while camping off-grid. I wish you had a video explaining the complete system as to what is needed from solar panels needed to to provide energy to the battery bank that would store needed amp hrs. to run either A/C or heater for several hrs. a day and have mini frig/ and computer running at same time. So I learned from your video i need minimum of 24v inverter with a more than 255 ah batt. bank. or and not to mention whether to get or need to change to solar panels that are either 24v or 48v? Do you have suggestion as to being able to buy another 12v, 1500 watt inverter same as one I already have and connecting them together as one 3000 watt inverter? Could it work? to make it a one 24v 3000watt inverter?
YOU ARE THE FREAKIN' MAN! Thank you so much for this video! I knew inverter manufacturers were lying through their teeth, I just didn't know how. EVERYONE should see this video! Thanks again!
It all depends on the configuration of your battery bank (for example 4 12v batt with 100A each is quite doable) and also how you derate your design (using a 3k inverter for a 2k application).
Yes, but wouldn't be better to run that 12 volt 2000 watt load on a bigger inverter with less stress and not have the fan running full bore trying to keep cool. I do agree if you are serious about running big household loads you should definitely be using a 48 volt battery.
I have a question what if you take those 2,000 w inverters and split them instead of trying to run them all or running a 3000 w take the 2000 Watts and run different battery systems would this be okay?
Question. I've a submersible water pump that I intend to use , Off-grid, every day,. The water pump power rating is 1700w(1.7kw). I also have an array of Solar Panels of 3600w output capacity. I've no need for battery or charge controller, only an Inverter, as I don't need to store energy. I intend to use the power directly on the appliance. What size/capacity of Off-grid Solar Power Inverter do I need to buy. Thank you.
I have a 2 64Ah banks of LIFEpo4 of headway cells. It’s installed for caraudio with 2 1/0gauge ofc power cable rated @ 350a each. My alternator is a higher output than stock at 320a. I was thinking of getting a 12v inverter for emergency backup power. I have a eu2000i generator so I was thinking 2kw inverter should be good. What you think? Should I just figure out a way to string 2 batteries for 24v use? Or stick with the 12v system.
I had never truely understand this and so I build the 12v system for my RV. Well, I am running in the same problem you're talking about. As soon as start running the ac along with the fridge and a electric stove my inverter is hot as can be. I have had multiple wires burned up and the list goes on and on. Also, I was under the impression that the high the current the better the system. I would like if you could touch base on is it better to charge your batteries at higher current or lower current. Thank you for your explanation it will help me a lot.
A great video. 245 amps continuous for 3000w at 12.5 v is really on the outer edge of common sense. That would be at least 2/0 gague DC cable. Massive. Great video. This application does not even take into account the 11.x battery drain at the end of the increasing amp draw.
Years ago (15) I contacted a guy who did RV solar and told him what I wanted to do. The system he sold me had to be downsized on the draw to 1,000 watts (12 volt). I have an MS3000 inverter with a 7,500watt surge. I used 500lb of Trojan batteries, and was never able to use the system the way I wanted to. This guy was a "Professional"
I run 3000 Watts on a 12 volt system with for 175 panels I'm using a Grendel inverter I run my air fryer my microwave my frigerator my television to television and my stereo system anytime I want so don't say it doesn't work and does work
The invertor is stating wattage from the 115 to 120acv output. 1000w @ 120 = about 8.6amps. There is a reason the 12v dc to 120ac invertor only has a 15 to 20amp fuse and a cigerte lighter plug. Its only supplying 8amps ish to the 115ac device you plug in.
For a load of 1000W working on a 12 volt inverter, the battery must supply more than 83,33A... From the cigarette lighter, being fused with only 15A, the maximum theoretical power to draw cannot be more than 12V*15A=180W...(the losses being excluded)...
Will I get more use while my pellet stove run longer instead of feeding my 2000 W inverter with 12 V if I feed it with 2436 or 48 is there an advantage to doing that when my draw is only 300 watch my goal is to try and make the 300 W stove run 24 hours 12 V two batteries I was getting about six hours should I wire it in series to raise that voltage is there an advantage?
Let me start by saying, I think the video is informative. I’m somewhat "glad?” I watched it. That aside, this video could be one third as long. Without all the ranting and going over the same thing again and again, it would take less than 3 minutes to get across the point. But I stuck in there, because I didn’t know if there was more toward the end. Nope, just more exasperated restating of the same thing, over and over. Wow.
Excellent job. Understood everything. So afraid a 🔥 Even a 48v seam kinda small especially I wanna run my stove or hot water tank. What kind of voltage and amps comes into my regular house ? watts does the average house have at it's disposal??
not to be rude but you dont really have any idea what your talking about. I have a 12v system running 3kw loads all day long, my system is fine, 600ah with the right cabling with cost me £35 for my inverter. 95mm2 cable can handle 300-400amps. 48v at 3000w is more efficient but it can be done
Question: what about 2 of the 6500 watt all in one MPP solar 48 V solar inverters in parallel both running off the same 48 v battery bank. Can you pull 12,000 watts out of the battery at one time ( each inverter sharing the load 6000 each) or well that be too many amps out of the battery bank at one time?
thanks much for this video, I am really cooked trying to figure these things out, I wish I had studied this stuff as a younger man. Wondering if I can use12 v solar panels @ 100 watts each and 12v batteries and make a 48v system?
I'm very new to learning about solar power but took my chances on buying the Jupiter 5000 watt Power Inverter for like $500... It says I can only use 12 volt batteries and that I can only connect them in parallel. Do you think I should return the Inverter or is it a good Inverter? Also, it's a modified sine wave
I’m looking at getting either 4 or 6 350 watt solar panels. Based on what ur saying I should get a 2000 watt Inverter and use 48 volt batteries. Right ? I’m wanting a Limiter also, what would you recommend ?
Awesome Video !!! And very well explained!!! You taught me a lot!! I have a 12 volt solar system right now...but now after watching your very informative video...I will be switching over to 24v!!
So for example if I have eight, 200 amps batteries and twenty, 250 watts solar panels and all the system is on 48v , So how much power storage do I have? And how strong is it compared with the same 24v system? I hope you got my question.
Doing an off grid bus build..... House part of bus is 22 ft long x 84” wide and 6’2” tall in the middle of roof. If we did a 48v system would we have the ability to run a new air conditioner off the inverter? And how much battery capacity would we need?
Hi nice explanation 👍 I have a question to ask .. I want to run OFF GRID for start whit one pylontech battery US5000 48V kwh home battery ..and then in few month time whit 2 battery of US5000 48v.... can I run whit All in one Growatt 5000w 48v inverter built in MPPT current output 100A ...thank you
are there higher volt systems? I have some things that output 600v (like my fuel cell) and am wanting to use that as well as batteries (especially as I cannot find a hydrolizer for the fuel cell which I was planning on having as the main power storage as hydrogen)
No, it is the same equation! If you divide Watts by Volts you get the Amps, because the formula says that the power is the product of voltage and intensity, (P=U*I, where P is the power, U is the voltage and I is the current. Solving the formula for I, you get I=P/U, that is, you are right)!
I'm building a system for an rv and I'm not sure which voltage system to go with. Which would be best for my needs? I have 1600W fixed panels and can add more as portable panels. Would it be better to go higher V and run everything on ac power or run a converter to drop back to dc power.
Excellent video, but what I don't understand is this is only part of the picture - surely you are feeding the power generated into a battery system (e.g. tesla powerwall) and the inverter runs off that? - so surely you could have a 12 or 24V panel system that feeds a huge battery system, and still draw large loads off the battery system?
Power is the product of voltage and current. This means that if you choose to work on high voltage, for the SAME power you want to support, then the current you need gets lower. This in turn means that the LOSSES of your system get much lower (than working with a low voltage system)...
I am running a 24V system but will be purchasing a 6,000W Split Wave 120/240V inverter. The reason why- if I am going to pull 4,000W from my system I want an inverter that has some overhead so the inverter itself runs cooler for the load being pulled. Just a little added insurance on the longevity of the inverter is all. As for the 24V Amp output- I plan on countering that by running 2x Temco 4ga cables per line. So should give me 250A of capacity there. As for why I don't want to go to 48V- Parts availability. Affordable. I plan to just run 4 12V batteries.
Have you heard anything about 96V lithium batteries that are on offer now? I ran a calculation and it seems like a good option, and from what your saying it will be a safer way to get max power hey?
DUUUUUUUUDE!!! THANK YOU SOOO FCK'n MUCH for just A-B-C'ing it, straight and to the point with a smig of "country" tossed in! I never even had the "wherewithal" to even "reckon-out" (consider) the "amp" issue, math and power draw conversion between the 12v,24v, and 48v systems! I was under the simpleton belief that the advantage of going to a higher battery voltage system, found it's advantage in the LESS power/energy it took/takes to "step up" the voltage up from 12v' to 120volt household system.. Hence, the higher One makes Their battery bank.. the less energy/power spent on conversation; thus a bit more for the Owner to have access to... (shrug.. :-D ) ooooor, something along those lines! But, then along comes RED DOG.. to "Country-splain" it in a way, it gets learn't!! (lol) THANK YOU! Sidebar: (in a low tone... lol) Ya' do get a tad bit more "useable" power from your system by going up.. right??? Like if you could find a 96volt Inverter.. that would be nearly seamless... Yes??
Oh.. P.s... I am and have been living 100% off grid for a little over a 2 years now. and 6months into it.. I bit the bullet, bought 8 more 6v lead acid 210ah batteries in order to step up to a 24v system.. hence.. I had to.. orrrr.. "have" to now purchase my additional batteries in groups of 4 (at 6v's per) vs the 2 impulse gets I gave into every now and then! ANDDD.. after taking in your gifted wisdom on the topic.. I truly feel motivated to snag one more set of 4 (6v 210ah batteries) in order to step if up to a 48v system before winter... with it's less light, cold and more "NON-FLOAT" power demands.. SHITTTT FCK!! GRRR that means.. I have to rewire everything... and .. worse of alllllll.. the real bite will be ordering a 48v PURE SINE WAVE inverter! OUCH...RED DOG.. !! (LOL) OUCH!
What a great video. I’m a beginner and I did not know the higher volts the lower the amp draw. I thought amp draw would be the same due to using the same power draws.
With a 48volt rv system with 200watt panels can i run a wire from the car battery and use a 12v to 48v step up transformer to charge the 48v battery bank?
*I have been looking for this information all over youtube. Thanks for explaining this. I have one question. If I have a 12-volt labeled inverter can I use 24 volt Battery? Does my battery have to match the inverter input?*
Seems you and most others on here don't know how to deal with high current loads if you think you can't run 3000+ watts on a 12V system. The power companies have been dealing with it for ages on larger scales. Go look at a factory or facility that has a high current draw. They don't run a 500KV line to most of those places. They run multiple lower voltage lines if it is some distance from the high line. Get down into the local area grids to a high draw place, again you will see the same thing. Multiple feeds. That is why some places have conduits or cable ducts run in groups of three or four. In each conduit you can find up to 3 wires all carrying the same leg of the 3-phase line. Or even all three legs in each conduit. Depends on the company. 3000 watts on a 12V system would be 250 amps. 2 150A feeds would handle it just fine. The extra 50 amps, if balanced right, more than covers the loss in the inverter and line losses. 5KW is 416 amps at 12 volts. Again you could use 3 runs at 150A per run. Batteries are run in parallel to supply more current and your wiring can do the same. It is better to use less wires of the proper size but it can be done with more wires of a smaller size. That is exactly what the wire you use does once you get over ~ #10AWG. Seldom will you see one solid conductor larger than that and the wire is multi-strand to carry the load. Our 1200A 3 phase 480V/277 was done exactly that way. 12 conductors to the main breaker panel as it was 480/277V system. From that 1200 Amp breaker it went to from 200 to 600 amp breakers depending on the load attached at the other end. Most of the other loads were transformers but there were some other loads that were 480 v motors.
Respect brother honestly I have watch this video many times over the last year and a half honestly I never read the comments. Currently I am running 🏃 a 12v system what you say about the wiring is so true as currently I have two sets of 0 gage wires 🏃 runs to my 2500w 12v inverter it runs everything in my house 🏡 fine my one issue battery 🔋usage time note it cost more to run 🏃 12v system you need more batteries and more panels if you want to run your house 🏡 if it is a small setup you be fine but for your home and if you have kids don't even eye 👀 a 12v system trust me now days a 12v, 24v, 36v, 48v inverter they all cost the same with everything coming out of China on Sunday with God mighty hand I be going 36v and I am willing to bet I will get a much longer 🏃 time off my same 12 6v batteries I choose 36v because I have already 12 6v batteries and for 48v I would require 8 batteries and 4 would leave over I could have consider a 24v system but the deal was on a 36v inverter.
So if I am running say 3000 continuous watts but the start up or surge is higher say 5000 watts, am I having to take that into account too? Nothing was mentioned about the surge of watts that I recall in video?
rhercha1 as long as the inverter can handle the short term 5000w then fine but if your pulling 3000w (assuming 220v system) constantly you should go for at least a 48v system or you need thick cables for the cables going to the inverter 24v system Would work as well but your cables have to be thicker even then I would not pull more then 3000watts@220-240v or 2x socket 110v inverter (max 1500w per socket or lower ideally or hard wired but on 110v you need twice the thickness of cable so check temps connections are good) unless it's a proper branded inverter rated for say 8000w and is 240v (not a China china inverter, a copy of a copy) rated for it and hardwired correctly,, you just got to be careful once you go over 13a on the AC side as things can heat up if not wired correctly (plug sockets and connectors or the inverter it self get hotspots) on 110v is far more an issue as just 1400w is 13a (roughly) so you got to be really careful that you don't cause cable fire or overload the plug (as most none UK plugs are unfused witch can lead to cable overload or melted socket) Basically if you looking at building high Watts you should make sure your cables and busbars and inverter (and please fuse it) is correctly sized and your not going to overload it
You're not thinking that out right are you? The inverter bumps the 12 volts up to 120 volts, at that the amp draw on 2000 watts would be 16.6 amps, 16.7 amps if you round it off.
As I understand. An inverter converts dc to ac. Meaning it will not be that much amperage, if you have a Keurig its about 1500 watt divide tha by 120v it will be about 12.5 amps. That's why its always recommended to have a 1/0 awg cable from the battery to inverter. I think the limiting will be in the solar array it cant be that big because of the wiring.
This peice of paper taught me more than 10 other vids😂 thank you sir!
From a year ago, doing my first system, I've learned to use several smaller setups instead of trying to run one massive system. Just like your grid power has several lines, I've set up 3 sets of panel-controller-batteries systems, and am very happy with the results.
Your video helped my thinking that led to this... Thanks again!!🙌🙌
Great idea! the more I see and learn, the more I think I will be doing the same.
planecrazyish
Good luck!! 👏👏
One thing I did was to use lower power per system, but I bought quality equipment, and didn't buy cheap stuff and defeat the purpose of efficiency.
GOOD IDEA!! Make sure you GROUND those Fckers!! I too have a small 2nd system with a motley crew of leftovers .. 1200 watt on pannels, 4 used AGMs and due to one of the 4 being a bit-O-ch by not charging the same, maintaining a charge.. (it's damaged when I got the 4) I'm forced to use a 12v setup.. .. still.. it's a few hour(s) backup! So rock on!
I am starting yo attempt the same
I have watched dozens of YT videos in my quest to understand not just the advantage of a 24 volt battery, but how that advantage manifests itself across the rest of your entire system. I had planned to use a 4000w inverter just because I wanted to overkill since the difference in the cost was nominal. Finally, a simple video that focused on the details I need to understand. Thanks for sharing. I will be checking out the rest of your videos with high expectations! :)
You are the teacher Sir!
😂4aa4
I found this video for off grid systems, yet the information made me wonder about audio systems that run 10,000 watts on 12 v systems? Thank you for being clear and concise! Great stuff!
AGREED.. Red Dog.. Nailed it.. BING, BAM, BOOM!!
Legend i was about to order a 3000w pure sine wave. I only want to go camping you saved me LOTS of $$$$$$ Thanks so much Australia
I'm reading and trying hard to absorb all the design concepts of off-grid solar. This was simple but it really made a couple of other concepts click for me. Thanks!
This is a great video and you explained it very well I’ve been looking at a lot of videos on solar systems and no one has broken down like that. Thank you
Excellent explanation. I did much research and decided to go with a 24 volt system and a 3500 watt inverter. As you said no reputable inverter manufacturer will sell a 4000+ watt 12 volt inverter. Granted, 3500 watts is an overkill for my needs but my system was initially designed for residential use and I have instead repurposed it to power my RV when boon docking. Thanks for this video. I wish I had seen it when building my system. There is not much info out there explaining the benefits of a 24 or 48 volt system. So far, it has served me well. Thanks again for a very informative video.
System planning is the important factor here. My 24V system has a 1kW pure sine LF inverter, 400Ah FLA battery, 1140W of mono solar panels through a 40A MPPT. To draw 1kW takes 40A off my 24V supply, which is 1/10 of its available capacity. In strong sunshine, my battery is at float, so I can draw 1kW from the panels, and the battery stays full. I could draw 2 kW from the system to do laundry in strong sunshine if required, but not at night, so the battery stays happy. (40A from panels, 40A from battery). No heavy loads after dark, only draw big current in full sunlight. My battery is Lead acid, so I try to avoid using more than 15% of it's total capacity, and recharge asap.
nlo114 your 40a controller may be limiting your system to 960w since 40a * 24v = 960w but your stem at 1140w / 24v = 47.5a, which indicates you be using a 50a ( or 60a ) charge controller.
By far the best, to the point, easy to understand explanation on UA-cam!
I SOOOOOO AGREE!
Great video as a 35 year electrician you explain it very well, the one thing I would have touch on would be cable sizing I've seen so many videos from so call off grid people using undersize cables on input side of the invertor with no disconnect or fuses, to just plain foolish. Just putting in my 2 cents worth
Edgar Acosta Reminds me of a young man offering his car and battery cables to jump start my 1997 Dodge Ram Passenger van turned camper. Couldn’t get the jump going as his cables were real skinny and probably a drug store $4.95 jumper cable. Pulled out my really thick Home Depot super special cables and connected them and vroom, start up. So, practically speaking thicker cables can make a lot of difference. Don’t ask about my trying to separate a torn sparking wire with a 12 inch screw driver. :)
Edgar, a question I have regarding wire gauges or size is simply can you use oversized wiring just to be safe, or is that frowned upon and let's keep cost out of the decision, just to keep it simple. Thanks for any input you may have but feel no obligation...
@@jackrodgersjr evidently you didn't understand his comment. He stated the very thing you tried to talk trash about! Hilarious! Learn to read before u you make retarded comments.
First time I've seen someone actually telling the truth on Off Grid Solar 😎 👍🏻
Finally someone to break it down simply . Thankyou. I've got a off grid cabin I'm remodeling and making it full off grid. . Power is too expensive to bring in.
Can use dedicated banks for certain circuits
Thank you for making this video, so well explained and wish this was the first one that I viewed
luckily I have purchased 24v panels . Again thanks for your efforts
Best explanation on UA-cam right here!
FML.
I have a 12v 5,000w inverter.
Thanks for this video
Superb video. You nailed it. I have done tons of research and no one told me so clearly about amp draw relative to volt sizing. Greta job we are indebted to you sir!!!!
very good example, however the important is that the higher the battery set voltage the higher the incoming charge parameters will be. meaning a longer time to reach the optimal charge input by the array and the controller. be safe, Raz
Great explanation. I just got done watching a video where the guy had 6000watts inverter at 12v....lol....and it wasn't working and he didn't realy know why... I dont want to discourage anyone but people can really get them selves into a dangerous situation. When I started I knew nothing but I read alot and did find information stating I shouldn't exceed 2000w at 12v. And I went from there. Your video explains this very clearly. My advice to anyone now is just skip straight to 48v systems. The components are very good now
Thank you so much for the video, I was close to buying one of the 3000w 12v inverter, I am glad I waited!
Thank you for articulating this in a manor that was broken down by the numbers.
wow the autoplay was turned on. I was trying to find this exact answer, watched a bunch of videos and read a bunch of websites with no clear simple answer. gave up was doing paperwork and I hear your voice in the background tell the answer. lol. great video thanks!
Best video on the internet on this topic, thanks you are a great teacher...
I’m sooo glade I just came across your video just now…. Time to try and figure out a absolute minimum 48v system now
Nice video man. I have a note on your explanation. Amps = watts divided by volts so 2000w inverter divided by 12v equals 166 amps. I have a pv system of 1000w 4 trojan t105re batteries a mppt controller 40 amp and a pure sine inverter 1500 watts on a 12v system. In maximum load 1480watt I consume 123 amps. I have 35 mm square cables that work well. Small systems are on 12v the medium on 24v and the big ones on 48v.
Yep All good .. but you batteries won't last ..
You Cook off the water ..
Ooh did you just think you can Cook by chardging ..
Nop .... It Will also Cook by over using
Thank you for a very clear and intelligent video.
All the best from Canada.
Good explanation, this is why i use multiple inverters to keep the amp draws as low as i can and any thing 12 volts i run as dc only for me
Do you use one at a time depending on how much you need to draw?
Very well explained. TQ
I have a 24 volt solar system in my van. Last night I began experimenting with running my window air conditioner.
Thank you, the facts are hard to come by... you're helping lots of people!!
She can spin just like her daddy...
I had the exact thoughts about my system thanks for confirming my thoughts changing my 12 volt to 24 volt so i can safely run my coffee maker cheers
Very well explained. Just exactly what I was looking for!!
I appreciate the wisdom and know how. Thank You
I am needing to up grade my inverter and battery bank larger power from a 12v 255 ah batteries and a Aims 1500 watt inverter that couldn't handle running a mini frig and a small fan during summer or small heater in winter. Now that I want to try and connect the A/C that ran off my RV's alternator/batteries system to switch it between that set up onto just solar/battery bank when boon docking off-grid, I have to go bigger. I am so glad I found your video with this very valuable info. on what size of inverter to get for the size of system I should be running appliances etc. while camping off-grid. I wish you had a video explaining the complete system as to what is needed from solar panels needed to to provide energy to the battery bank that would store needed amp hrs. to run either A/C or heater for several hrs. a day and have mini frig/ and computer running at same time. So I learned from your video i need minimum of 24v inverter with a more than 255 ah batt. bank. or and not to mention whether to get or need to change to solar panels that are either 24v or 48v? Do you have suggestion as to being able to buy another 12v, 1500 watt inverter same as one I already have and connecting them together as one 3000 watt inverter? Could it work? to make it a one 24v 3000watt inverter?
YOU ARE THE FREAKIN' MAN! Thank you so much for this video! I knew inverter manufacturers were lying through their teeth, I just didn't know how. EVERYONE should see this video! Thanks again!
It all depends on the configuration of your battery bank (for example 4 12v batt with 100A each is quite doable) and also how you derate your design (using a 3k inverter for a 2k application).
Best simple explanation ever
Thank you, this finally articulated the difference even the most popular youtubers fail to explain. Side note, the math is wrong 🙂
Best explanation I've heard,,,well done sir 👏
Yes, but wouldn't be better to run that 12 volt 2000 watt load on a bigger inverter with less stress and not have the fan running full bore trying to keep cool. I do agree if you are serious about running big household loads you should definitely be using a 48 volt battery.
I have a question what if you take those 2,000 w inverters and split them instead of trying to run them all or running a 3000 w take the 2000 Watts and run different battery systems would this be okay?
yes with two systems it is fine . one inverter on each battery.
Very concise. Thank you for this! I enjoy the note outline.
Absolutely the best explanation of the different voltages. Have not seen anything of late from you, hope you are well and look forward to more videos.
This is such a great explanation, wish I had seen this a while ago. Thank man
Thank You for the great info, your passionate about helping people and that is awesome!!!
great presentation, this i understand, thanks, will be looking for your videos on building them, thanks
Thank you so much sir, I needed this video. Been doing wrong for years and now I know why I keep failing. HOOAH!!!
Thanks for the video and it was very helpful explaining to me the difference between those voltages.
Great video people ahould understand this before they get fooled by advertising.
Question. I've a submersible water pump that I intend to use , Off-grid, every day,. The water pump power rating is 1700w(1.7kw). I also have an array of Solar Panels of 3600w output capacity. I've no need for battery or charge controller, only an Inverter, as I don't need to store energy. I intend to use the power directly on the appliance. What size/capacity of Off-grid Solar Power Inverter do I need to buy. Thank you.
Informative video. Physics hurt, sometimes.
“Nobody likes the truth”...
I have a 2 64Ah banks of LIFEpo4 of headway cells. It’s installed for caraudio with 2 1/0gauge ofc power cable rated @ 350a each. My alternator is a higher output than stock at 320a. I was thinking of getting a 12v inverter for emergency backup power. I have a eu2000i generator so I was thinking 2kw inverter should be good. What you think? Should I just figure out a way to string 2 batteries for 24v use? Or stick with the 12v system.
THANKS FOR THIS! I've been wondering why people are switching to 48v when it seems less useful
How about i have a 3000 watt 12 vlt inverter and it work great
I had never truely understand this and so I build the 12v system for my RV. Well, I am running in the same problem you're talking about. As soon as start running the ac along with the fridge and a electric stove my inverter is hot as can be. I have had multiple wires burned up and the list goes on and on. Also, I was under the impression that the high the current the better the system. I would like if you could touch base on is it better to charge your batteries at higher current or lower current. Thank you for your explanation it will help me a lot.
Thank you. This was actually the key question I had for my cabin. I dump 12 and go for 24v then :)
A great video. 245 amps continuous for 3000w at 12.5 v is really on the outer edge of common sense. That would be at least 2/0 gague DC cable. Massive. Great video. This application does not even take into account the 11.x battery drain at the end of the increasing amp draw.
Years ago (15) I contacted a guy who did RV solar and told him what I wanted to do. The system he sold me had to be downsized on the draw to 1,000 watts (12 volt). I have an MS3000 inverter with a 7,500watt surge. I used 500lb of Trojan batteries, and was never able to use the system the way I wanted to. This guy was a "Professional"
I run 3000 Watts on a 12 volt system with for 175 panels I'm using a Grendel inverter I run my air fryer my microwave my frigerator my television to television and my stereo system anytime I want so don't say it doesn't work and does work
Thanks
for the Education
COOP
...
The invertor is stating wattage from the 115 to 120acv output. 1000w @ 120 = about 8.6amps. There is a reason the 12v dc to 120ac invertor only has a 15 to 20amp fuse and a cigerte lighter plug. Its only supplying 8amps ish to the 115ac device you plug in.
For a load of 1000W working on a 12 volt inverter, the battery must supply more than 83,33A...
From the cigarette lighter, being fused with only 15A, the maximum theoretical power to draw cannot be more than 12V*15A=180W...(the losses being excluded)...
Will I get more use while my pellet stove run longer instead of feeding my 2000 W inverter with 12 V if I feed it with 2436 or 48 is there an advantage to doing that when my draw is only 300 watch my goal is to try and make the 300 W stove run 24 hours 12 V two batteries I was getting about six hours should I wire it in series to raise that voltage is there an advantage?
This is a great video, thanks Red!
Thank you so much for sharing your info, and making it so clear; I've watched so many videos that were just crap.
Let me start by saying, I think the video is informative. I’m somewhat "glad?” I watched it. That aside, this video could be one third as long. Without all the ranting and going over the same thing again and again, it would take less than 3 minutes to get across the point. But I stuck in there, because I didn’t know if there was more toward the end. Nope, just more exasperated restating of the same thing, over and over. Wow.
Excellent job. Understood everything. So afraid a 🔥 Even a 48v seam kinda small especially I wanna run my stove or hot water tank. What kind of voltage and amps comes into my regular house ? watts does the average house have at it's disposal??
not to be rude but you dont really have any idea what your talking about. I have a 12v system running 3kw loads all day long, my system is fine, 600ah with the right cabling with cost me £35 for my inverter. 95mm2 cable can handle 300-400amps. 48v at 3000w is more efficient but it can be done
Question: what about 2 of the 6500 watt all in one MPP solar 48 V solar inverters in parallel both running off the same 48 v battery bank. Can you pull 12,000 watts out of the battery at one time ( each inverter sharing the load 6000 each) or well that be too many amps out of the battery bank at one time?
thanks much for this video, I am really cooked trying to figure these things out, I wish I had studied this stuff as a younger man. Wondering if I can use12 v solar panels @ 100 watts each and 12v batteries and make a 48v system?
I'm very new to learning about solar power but took my chances on buying the Jupiter 5000 watt Power Inverter for like $500... It says I can only use 12 volt batteries and that I can only connect them in parallel. Do you think I should return the Inverter or is it a good Inverter? Also, it's a modified sine wave
I’m looking at getting either 4 or 6 350 watt solar panels. Based on what ur saying I should get a 2000 watt Inverter and use 48 volt batteries. Right ? I’m wanting a Limiter also, what would you recommend ?
Awesome Video !!! And very well explained!!! You taught me a lot!! I have a 12 volt solar system right now...but now after watching your very informative video...I will be switching over to 24v!!
So for example if I have eight, 200 amps batteries and twenty, 250 watts solar panels and all the system is on 48v ,
So how much power storage do I have?
And how strong is it compared with the same 24v system?
I hope you got my question.
Doing an off grid bus build..... House part of bus is 22 ft long x 84” wide and 6’2” tall in the middle of roof. If we did a 48v system would we have the ability to run a new air conditioner off the inverter? And how much battery capacity would we need?
thanx for the vid! isn't it true that you can run 12v batteries in series to achieve a 24v power supply for a 24v inverter? thanks
Hi nice explanation 👍 I have a question to ask .. I want to run OFF GRID for start whit one pylontech battery US5000 48V kwh home battery ..and then in few month time whit 2 battery of US5000 48v.... can I run whit All in one Growatt 5000w 48v inverter built in MPPT current output 100A ...thank you
Thank you. I'm trying to plan my system and this video was very helpful to me.
are there higher volt systems? I have some things that output 600v (like my fuel cell) and am wanting to use that as well as batteries (especially as I cannot find a hydrolizer for the fuel cell which I was planning on having as the main power storage as hydrogen)
Hi, I have 8 12Volt 178 AH at 20 hrs agm batteries - It is wired for 48 vlots - So what is the capacity of this battery bank?
Can you help me with the math for coming up with 200amps? Is this a different equation than ways divided by volts.?
No, it is the same equation! If you divide Watts by Volts you get the Amps, because the formula says that the power is the product of voltage and intensity, (P=U*I, where P is the power, U is the voltage and I is the current. Solving the formula for I, you get I=P/U, that is, you are right)!
I'm building a system for an rv and I'm not sure which voltage system to go with. Which would be best for my needs? I have 1600W fixed panels and can add more as portable panels. Would it be better to go higher V and run everything on ac power or run a converter to drop back to dc power.
Excellent video, but what I don't understand is this is only part of the picture - surely you are feeding the power generated into a battery system (e.g. tesla powerwall) and the inverter runs off that? - so surely you could have a 12 or 24V panel system that feeds a huge battery system, and still draw large loads off the battery system?
Power is the product of voltage and current. This means that if you choose to work on high voltage, for the SAME power you want to support, then the current you need gets lower. This in turn means that the LOSSES of your system get much lower (than working with a low voltage system)...
I am running a 24V system but will be purchasing a 6,000W Split Wave 120/240V inverter. The reason why- if I am going to pull 4,000W from my system I want an inverter that has some overhead so the inverter itself runs cooler for the load being pulled. Just a little added insurance on the longevity of the inverter is all.
As for the 24V Amp output- I plan on countering that by running 2x Temco 4ga cables per line. So should give me 250A of capacity there.
As for why I don't want to go to 48V- Parts availability. Affordable. I plan to just run 4 12V batteries.
did a good job explaining
Have you heard anything about 96V lithium batteries that are on offer now? I ran a calculation and it seems like a good option, and from what your saying it will be a safer way to get max power hey?
Smart .. best video out there!!
DUUUUUUUUDE!!! THANK YOU SOOO FCK'n MUCH for just A-B-C'ing it, straight and to the point with a smig of "country" tossed in! I never even had the "wherewithal" to even "reckon-out" (consider) the "amp" issue, math and power draw conversion between the 12v,24v, and 48v systems! I was under the simpleton belief that the advantage of going to a higher battery voltage system, found it's advantage in the LESS power/energy it took/takes to "step up" the voltage up from 12v' to 120volt household system.. Hence, the higher One makes Their battery bank.. the less energy/power spent on conversation; thus a bit more for the Owner to have access to... (shrug.. :-D ) ooooor, something along those lines! But, then along comes RED DOG.. to "Country-splain" it in a way, it gets learn't!! (lol) THANK YOU!
Sidebar: (in a low tone... lol) Ya' do get a tad bit more "useable" power from your system by going up.. right??? Like if you could find a 96volt Inverter.. that would be nearly seamless... Yes??
Oh.. P.s... I am and have been living 100% off grid for a little over a 2 years now. and 6months into it.. I bit the bullet, bought 8 more 6v lead acid 210ah batteries in order to step up to a 24v system.. hence.. I had to.. orrrr.. "have" to now purchase my additional batteries in groups of 4 (at 6v's per) vs the 2 impulse gets I gave into every now and then! ANDDD.. after taking in your gifted wisdom on the topic.. I truly feel motivated to snag one more set of 4 (6v 210ah batteries) in order to step if up to a 48v system before winter... with it's less light, cold and more "NON-FLOAT" power demands.. SHITTTT FCK!! GRRR that means.. I have to rewire everything... and .. worse of alllllll.. the real bite will be ordering a 48v PURE SINE WAVE inverter! OUCH...RED DOG.. !! (LOL) OUCH!
2000/12=166.66, 4000/24=166.66, 8000/48=166.66
But nice video, thanx
What a great video. I’m a beginner and I did not know the higher volts the lower the amp draw. I thought amp draw would be the same due to using the same power draws.
With a 48volt rv system with 200watt panels can i run a wire from the car battery and use a 12v to 48v step up transformer to charge the 48v battery bank?
*I have been looking for this information all over youtube. Thanks for explaining this. I have one question. If I have a 12-volt labeled inverter can I use 24 volt Battery? Does my battery have to match the inverter input?*
isnt there a voltage per person ration to tell you if you should need a small or medium or large system?
Awesome we explain thank you very much
அருமை👍
Seems you and most others on here don't know how to deal with high current loads if you think you can't run 3000+ watts on a 12V system. The power companies have been dealing with it for ages on larger scales. Go look at a factory or facility that has a high current draw. They don't run a 500KV line to most of those places. They run multiple lower voltage lines if it is some distance from the high line. Get down into the local area grids to a high draw place, again you will see the same thing. Multiple feeds. That is why some places have conduits or cable ducts run in groups of three or four. In each conduit you can find up to 3 wires all carrying the same leg of the 3-phase line. Or even all three legs in each conduit. Depends on the company. 3000 watts on a 12V system would be 250 amps. 2 150A feeds would handle it just fine. The extra 50 amps, if balanced right, more than covers the loss in the inverter and line losses. 5KW is 416 amps at 12 volts. Again you could use 3 runs at 150A per run. Batteries are run in parallel to supply more current and your wiring can do the same. It is better to use less wires of the proper size but it can be done with more wires of a smaller size. That is exactly what the wire you use does once you get over ~ #10AWG. Seldom will you see one solid conductor larger than that and the wire is multi-strand to carry the load. Our 1200A 3 phase 480V/277 was done exactly that way. 12 conductors to the main breaker panel as it was 480/277V system. From that 1200 Amp breaker it went to from 200 to 600 amp breakers depending on the load attached at the other end. Most of the other loads were transformers but there were some other loads that were 480 v motors.
Respect brother honestly I have watch this video many times over the last year and a half honestly I never read the comments. Currently I am running 🏃 a 12v system what you say about the wiring is so true as currently I have two sets of 0 gage wires 🏃 runs to my 2500w 12v inverter it runs everything in my house 🏡 fine my one issue battery 🔋usage time note it cost more to run 🏃 12v system you need more batteries and more panels if you want to run your house 🏡 if it is a small setup you be fine but for your home and if you have kids don't even eye 👀 a 12v system trust me now days a 12v, 24v, 36v, 48v inverter they all cost the same with everything coming out of China on Sunday with God mighty hand I be going 36v and I am willing to bet I will get a much longer 🏃 time off my same 12 6v batteries I choose 36v because I have already 12 6v batteries and for 48v I would require 8 batteries and 4 would leave over I could have consider a 24v system but the deal was on a 36v inverter.
This helped a LOT!. Thank you! :)
So if I am running say 3000 continuous watts but the start up or surge is higher say 5000 watts, am I having to take that into account too? Nothing was mentioned about the surge of watts that I recall in video?
rhercha1 as long as the inverter can handle the short term 5000w then fine but if your pulling 3000w (assuming 220v system) constantly you should go for at least a 48v system or you need thick cables for the cables going to the inverter
24v system Would work as well but your cables have to be thicker even then I would not pull more then 3000watts@220-240v or 2x socket 110v inverter (max 1500w per socket or lower ideally or hard wired but on 110v you need twice the thickness of cable so check temps connections are good)
unless it's a proper branded inverter rated for say 8000w and is 240v (not a China china inverter, a copy of a copy) rated for it and hardwired correctly,, you just got to be careful once you go over 13a on the AC side as things can heat up if not wired correctly (plug sockets and connectors or the inverter it self get hotspots) on 110v is far more an issue as just 1400w is 13a (roughly) so you got to be really careful that you don't cause cable fire or overload the plug (as most none UK plugs are unfused witch can lead to cable overload or melted socket)
Basically if you looking at building high Watts you should make sure your cables and busbars and inverter (and please fuse it) is correctly sized and your not going to overload it
THANK YOU!!!... that makes so much sense.
You're not thinking that out right are you? The inverter bumps the 12 volts up to 120 volts, at that the amp draw on 2000 watts would be 16.6 amps, 16.7 amps if you round it off.
i think hes explaining is battery to inverter not inverter to load .
As I understand. An inverter converts dc to ac. Meaning it will not be that much amperage, if you have a Keurig its about 1500 watt divide tha by 120v it will be about 12.5 amps. That's why its always recommended to have a 1/0 awg cable from the battery to inverter. I think the limiting will be in the solar array it cant be that big because of the wiring.
Oh and the charge controller if its solar. A 40amp for example can only have like maybe 420 440 max to be safe.