Yeah, was very helpful! It was the removing of the plastic insert for the seat post. That was the vital bit I needed. Thank you on behalf of all of us wondering how to do it! ☺️
Exactly, believe me even when I had this sent to me by the company nobody was really saying anything and what they were speaking was in and Asian language I couldn't understand. So thanks again for making this video it's really helped tremendously.
@@kurfewnightshade3655 It's not as easy as in that video rest assured! It's that simple but not that easy. Thank you again for getting that video to me!
New subscriber today. Nice looking bike. Thank you for video on battery removal. Thinking of getting this ebike. I have a heavier ebike but i also like this lighter ebikes to ride for fun. Jasion should appreciate your videos.
Hello, I appreciate your video very much it was very helpful. I have question... Hoping you can help with any info. My tail brake light lens came off, i can see the circuit board, wondering if i can replace the lens, however when I go on Amazon or Google eb3 ebike brake light replacement, none of them are the shape of the circuit board or like the light in your video. It's an odd shape and I'm wondering if I have to buy that same shape? Looking at your video and seing how you took the light out, I don't think the replacement covers they show would cover the whole back area. Just a bit confused... Pleeeease help me outdoorsman.
@deeryknow Hello, thank you for your comment. I did some searching and nothing comes up. I'm not surprised. When I got mine it was good quality and spare parts were available. But sadly now that doesn't seem to be the case. I can't even find the link for any of it. I'd recommend superglue if possible. Or you can install one of a different shape. I wish I could have been more help.
Hey i appreciate ur videos on the bike it has been very helpful. I do have a question this video was only to show how to remove? Or did your battery have issues and u needed to change it? Please do keep up with updates on this bike its very very helpful again thank u so much and i hope u have a great day.
Thank you. It was only to show how to remove and replace. I've put over 100 miles on that battery and recently it's not lasting as long. But that's to be expected. I thought I'd get a couple hundred miles before that happened but I do push it to the max weight by hauling 100lbs of groceries with it. I'm considering mounting a different higher capacity battery for the spring. We'll see.
@TheWannabeOutdoorsman thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I subscribed to ur channel since yesterday when i was looking into ebikes u have great video shots and you definitely get into details and that I do appreciate. Im a female 5'2 n weight 130 and im looking for something simple and easy to carry this is the only bike i see on Amazon that looks like what im looking for also seeing your video is very helpful. Wow that sound like a challenge I'm sure you will accomplish. I hope that you make a video on that I would love to see the idea you come up with.
@@rara20baby the bike should be a good fit for you. It's not the lightest and it doesn't fold down to a tiny package but it's not too heavy and will fold enough to fit in the back seat of a 2017 Nissan Sentra. Being the weight you are is an advantage with e-bikes. And thank you for letting me know about what you liked.
@TheWannabeOutdoorsman thank you again for this information it's very helpful. I appreciate your honesty and getting back to me with answers. I figured the bike would be heavy it just doesn't look Look like it on video and also you guys are strong and pick it up like a toddler lol. I look forward to more of your video and I very much appreciate ur advice. Have a great morning and be safe out there.
I used the same old battery just to make a how to video. But there used to be a link on Amazon. I haven't seen it in a long while. It was in the q&a in the reviews.
Hi. Do you have any idea on how to remove the hub freewheel? My brand new eb3 hub motor just stopped working and has grinding noises, must be lose motor magnets. But I can’t remove the hub cover without removing the freewheel. Looks like i can’t use a regular freewheel tool, there’s also the hub wire. And on my eb3, unlike yours, there’s no external electrical connector to separate the wheel from the frame frame. So can’t really use any freewheel tool.
Ya got me there. I've had no issues with mine whatsoever in the 200+ miles I've ridden it, not even a flat. So consequently I've not even attempted to fiddle with the hub or even remove the rear wheel.
Fixed it! While it seemed to me earlier that it was a hub problem because of the horrendous buzzing and clicking sounds from the hub, it turned out to be a disconnected yellow wire inside the frame near the controller. I was just tracing the motor wire and found it. Just tested it, rode 10miles and it ran great! 20mph all the time. Thanks for your video, I followed it to get to the wires and found the culprit.
@allancheli I'm glad the video helped exclamation point you can also use that to disconnect the pedal assist because I think on that model it's dangerous so I disconnected mine and now it is great!
It will but only at 10-12 mph. 20mph will get you 8-10 miles per charge. The faster you go the faster the battery drains. There's a way to get 25 miles per charge but you'll have to pedal vigorously to get to 7 mph while barely twisting the throttle while pedaling normally the rest of the time. Limit your speed to 7mph. 15 miles per day on level paved surfaces is possible at 10mph but you will have to charge it every day. I wouldn't recommend that. 10 mph will get you 18-20 depending if you do most of the pedaling.
@@TheWannabeOutdoorsman first of all. I LOVE how quickly you respond. Second thing, so is there a pedal assist level you'd recommend using for my commute?
@@TeaseCakey PAS mode 1 is 10mph PAS 2 is 16mph and PAS 3 is 21mph. I'd recommend PAS 1. That for sure should get you the distance. I'd actually recommend starting off very lightly using the throttle and a moment after it engages begin pedaling vigorously until you're up to 10-12 mph ( keeping the throttle slightly engaged) and then stop pedaling for a moment while you adjust the throttle to 10-12 mph and without letting off the throttle start pedaling normally. This method will be most efficient for your battery AND allows you to go less than the speed set by the pedal assist. If you want to go faster than 10 but less than 16 you'll need to select PAS 2. If you want to go 17 mph you'll need to select PAS 3 but use the throttle method I explained. I always use PAS 3 but use the throttle/pedal method and go 7-12mph. It's best to practice with it at various speeds because the wheel base (axel to axel) is short and the wheels are smaller so it gets "squirrelly" at high speed as well as larger stones can toss the wheel a few inches across the pavement. 😦 So be careful and practice with it until you find your zone.
Working on it. I've got to figure out a way that's inexpensive and won't ruin anything. Short of swapping out the controller I've not gotten anywhere with increased speed.. I even reached out to the company but they have yet to reply. Also with the short wheel base I'm not sure going any faster is advisable. Plus the battery will drain too fast. I'm turning my attention to extending the range instead.
If it goes 20 mph theres not much of a speed limiter on it. I bought a 14” ebike and it came with a 15mph (25kph) limit, which can be turned on/off by holding a brake, turning the key on, giving full throttle 3 times. After that it went 20 mph on full charge and of course speed decreased with the battery SOC. That ebike looks difficult to mod due to limited space, like a laptop. My ebike is built like a desktop, so there was more room for mods. First mod was replaced the 400w geared hub with 2000w gear-less hub, with 4mm^2 phase wires. It would fit perfectly on that bike but the first problem you would run into is the tiny connector used for phase/hall wires. My original controller was 13a, which I’m sure is very close to that one. When you remove the gears, the rear wheel spins about twice as fast for the same controller speed. So if speed 1 was originally 10 mph it will be 20mph, and speed 3 will want to go 40 mph. (Probably faster than you want to go and definitely faster than the controller can make it go. And you can’t help with pedals at that speed. Lol So realistically you will need a stronger controller. And its not likely going to be the size of a pack of cigarettes like my original and that one is. So you would need external controller. And since you lost the gear reduction, now you need 2x the amps (30a) to get back the original torque, and obviously you want more than original torque so you need 60a. My controller is 190a, but set to 100a peak. The But even with a tiny 60a controller, that original battery will not support it. Any fuse inline will blow and the BMS should shut it down around 30a. And the cells inside would sag like crazy and overheat, so you would need a new battery or add more batteries in parallel to distribute the load. In replaced the cells in my battery case pretty easily from 13s 5p 18650 to 16s 5p 21700, so my continuous amp rating went from 15a to 60a. So I can tell you on that little ebike, its pretty good as it is. If you want to retain the light streamlined design you don’t need to change it. While I don’t recommend it, you can do what I did originally and since my BMS was 15a rated and controller was 13a peak, i did a very mild shunt mod to get 15a, using my clamp meter to test as I added solder to the shunt wire. This tiny change was enough to increase acceleration enough to make it less annoying to drive. Shunt mod wont (should not) increase top speed, and you don’t want it to. The cruise amps at 20mph still need to drop below 10a so the controller has a cooling period after acceleration or extended uphill climb.
@@TheWannabeOutdoorsman , yes, i think thats why the commenter believes its locked at 20 not back-EMF limited to 20. But i can say everything in that bike was designed to go 20 mph. The Philippines has several ebike classifications, 2-wheel, more than two wheel, up to 25kph (requires bicycle helmet) and up to 50kph (requires motorcycle helmet). I had mine up to 80 kph (50mph) for testing but its set for 25kph speed 1, 45kph speed 2, 60kph speed 3. As will all matched component ebikes, that one you have can’t be significantly modified without changing almost everything. But it is possible to iron out some wrinkles if the battery is strong enough and the controller had enough thermal overhead to give a 10-15% shunt mod to. When i did it to mine it was enough to change it from “dang, i might as well walk” to “ok, at least i’m accelerating fast enough to cross a road”. Lol The nice thing about ebikes is the law is only enforced if you are being a nuisance in most cases. I would consider a bike like that but I want removable battery (less than 30 seconds) and working front and rear suspension. That bike is strange having rear suspension but not front suspension. My bike is too heavy but since i can remove the battery it makes it easier to carry upstairs after each ride.
I'm so happy you finally released this. Hopefully anything I sent helped. Thanks again looking forward to some more great e-bike videos 👍
Yeah, was very helpful! It was the removing of the plastic insert for the seat post. That was the vital bit I needed. Thank you on behalf of all of us wondering how to do it! ☺️
Exactly, believe me even when I had this sent to me by the company nobody was really saying anything and what they were speaking was in and Asian language I couldn't understand. So thanks again for making this video it's really helped tremendously.
@@kurfewnightshade3655 It's not as easy as in that video rest assured! It's that simple but not that easy. Thank you again for getting that video to me!
New subscriber today. Nice looking bike. Thank you for video on battery removal. Thinking of getting this ebike. I have a heavier ebike but i also like this lighter ebikes to ride for fun. Jasion should appreciate your videos.
Thanks for your feedback. I have to say it's encouraging.
Hello, I appreciate your video very much it was very helpful. I have question... Hoping you can help with any info. My tail brake light lens came off, i can see the circuit board, wondering if i can replace the lens, however when I go on Amazon or Google eb3 ebike brake light replacement, none of them are the shape of the circuit board or like the light in your video. It's an odd shape and I'm wondering if I have to buy that same shape? Looking at your video and seing how you took the light out, I don't think the replacement covers they show would cover the whole back area. Just a bit confused... Pleeeease help me outdoorsman.
@deeryknow Hello, thank you for your comment. I did some searching and nothing comes up. I'm not surprised. When I got mine it was good quality and spare parts were available. But sadly now that doesn't seem to be the case. I can't even find the link for any of it. I'd recommend superglue if possible. Or you can install one of a different shape. I wish I could have been more help.
Hey i appreciate ur videos on the bike it has been very helpful. I do have a question this video was only to show how to remove? Or did your battery have issues and u needed to change it? Please do keep up with updates on this bike its very very helpful again thank u so much and i hope u have a great day.
Thank you. It was only to show how to remove and replace. I've put over 100 miles on that battery and recently it's not lasting as long. But that's to be expected. I thought I'd get a couple hundred miles before that happened but I do push it to the max weight by hauling 100lbs of groceries with it. I'm considering mounting a different higher capacity battery for the spring. We'll see.
@TheWannabeOutdoorsman thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I subscribed to ur channel since yesterday when i was looking into ebikes u have great video shots and you definitely get into details and that I do appreciate. Im a female 5'2 n weight 130 and im looking for something simple and easy to carry this is the only bike i see on Amazon that looks like what im looking for also seeing your video is very helpful. Wow that sound like a challenge I'm sure you will accomplish. I hope that you make a video on that I would love to see the idea you come up with.
@@rara20baby the bike should be a good fit for you. It's not the lightest and it doesn't fold down to a tiny package but it's not too heavy and will fold enough to fit in the back seat of a 2017 Nissan Sentra. Being the weight you are is an advantage with e-bikes. And thank you for letting me know about what you liked.
@TheWannabeOutdoorsman thank you again for this information it's very helpful. I appreciate your honesty and getting back to me with answers. I figured the bike would be heavy it just doesn't look Look like it on video and also you guys are strong and pick it up like a toddler lol. I look forward to more of your video and I very much appreciate ur advice. Have a great morning and be safe out there.
Where did you buy a replacement battery? Jasions website doesnt have the EB3 bike or Battery on the site.
I used the same old battery just to make a how to video. But there used to be a link on Amazon. I haven't seen it in a long while. It was in the q&a in the reviews.
Hi. Do you have any idea on how to remove the hub freewheel? My brand new eb3 hub motor just stopped working and has grinding noises, must be lose motor magnets. But I can’t remove the hub cover without removing the freewheel. Looks like i can’t use a regular freewheel tool, there’s also the hub wire. And on my eb3, unlike yours, there’s no external electrical connector to separate the wheel from the frame frame. So can’t really use any freewheel tool.
Ya got me there. I've had no issues with mine whatsoever in the 200+ miles I've ridden it, not even a flat. So consequently I've not even attempted to fiddle with the hub or even remove the rear wheel.
Fixed it! While it seemed to me earlier that it was a hub problem because of the horrendous buzzing and clicking sounds from the hub, it turned out to be a disconnected yellow wire inside the frame near the controller. I was just tracing the motor wire and found it. Just tested it, rode 10miles and it ran great! 20mph all the time. Thanks for your video, I followed it to get to the wires and found the culprit.
@allancheli EXCELLENT!!! 😁🚲
@allancheli I'm glad the video helped exclamation point you can also use that to disconnect the pedal assist because I think on that model it's dangerous so I disconnected mine and now it is great!
@@allancheli Are you willing to make a video showing what you did?
Heya! Can this go 7 miles to and from work for 6 days a week? Like 14 miles a day. How long does the battery last when youre using it?
It will but only at 10-12 mph. 20mph will get you 8-10 miles per charge.
The faster you go the faster the battery drains. There's a way to get 25 miles per charge but you'll have to pedal vigorously to get to 7 mph while barely twisting the throttle while pedaling normally the rest of the time. Limit your speed to 7mph.
15 miles per day on level paved surfaces is possible at 10mph but you will have to charge it every day. I wouldn't recommend that. 10 mph will get you 18-20 depending if you do most of the pedaling.
@@TheWannabeOutdoorsman first of all. I LOVE how quickly you respond. Second thing, so is there a pedal assist level you'd recommend using for my commute?
@@TeaseCakey PAS mode 1 is 10mph PAS 2 is 16mph and PAS 3 is 21mph. I'd recommend PAS 1. That for sure should get you the distance.
I'd actually recommend starting off very lightly using the throttle and a moment after it engages begin pedaling vigorously until you're up to 10-12 mph ( keeping the throttle slightly engaged) and then stop pedaling for a moment while you adjust the throttle to 10-12 mph and without letting off the throttle start pedaling normally. This method will be most efficient for your battery AND allows you to go less than the speed set by the pedal assist. If you want to go faster than 10 but less than 16 you'll need to select PAS 2. If you want to go 17 mph you'll need to select PAS 3 but use the throttle method I explained.
I always use PAS 3 but use the throttle/pedal method and go 7-12mph.
It's best to practice with it at various speeds because the wheel base (axel to axel) is short and the wheels are smaller so it gets "squirrelly" at high speed as well as larger stones can toss the wheel a few inches across the pavement. 😦 So be careful and practice with it until you find your zone.
Can you make a video of how to take the speed limit off ?
Working on it. I've got to figure out a way that's inexpensive and won't ruin anything. Short of swapping out the controller I've not gotten anywhere with increased speed.. I even reached out to the company but they have yet to reply.
Also with the short wheel base I'm not sure going any faster is advisable. Plus the battery will drain too fast. I'm turning my attention to extending the range instead.
If it goes 20 mph theres not much of a speed limiter on it. I bought a 14” ebike and it came with a 15mph (25kph) limit, which can be turned on/off by holding a brake, turning the key on, giving full throttle 3 times. After that it went 20 mph on full charge and of course speed decreased with the battery SOC.
That ebike looks difficult to mod due to limited space, like a laptop. My ebike is built like a desktop, so there was more room for mods.
First mod was replaced the 400w geared hub with 2000w gear-less hub, with 4mm^2 phase wires. It would fit perfectly on that bike but the first problem you would run into is the tiny connector used for phase/hall wires.
My original controller was 13a, which I’m sure is very close to that one. When you remove the gears, the rear wheel spins about twice as fast for the same controller speed. So if speed 1 was originally 10 mph it will be 20mph, and speed 3 will want to go 40 mph. (Probably faster than you want to go and definitely faster than the controller can make it go. And you can’t help with pedals at that speed. Lol
So realistically you will need a stronger controller. And its not likely going to be the size of a pack of cigarettes like my original and that one is. So you would need external controller. And since you lost the gear reduction, now you need 2x the amps (30a) to get back the original torque, and obviously you want more than original torque so you need 60a.
My controller is 190a, but set to 100a peak. The But even with a tiny 60a controller, that original battery will not support it. Any fuse inline will blow and the BMS should shut it down around 30a. And the cells inside would sag like crazy and overheat, so you would need a new battery or add more batteries in parallel to distribute the load.
In replaced the cells in my battery case pretty easily from 13s 5p 18650 to 16s 5p 21700, so my continuous amp rating went from 15a to 60a.
So I can tell you on that little ebike, its pretty good as it is. If you want to retain the light streamlined design you don’t need to change it.
While I don’t recommend it, you can do what I did originally and since my BMS was 15a rated and controller was 13a peak, i did a very mild shunt mod to get 15a, using my clamp meter to test as I added solder to the shunt wire. This tiny change was enough to increase acceleration enough to make it less annoying to drive. Shunt mod wont (should not) increase top speed, and you don’t want it to. The cruise amps at 20mph still need to drop below 10a so the controller has a cooling period after acceleration or extended uphill climb.
@imho7250 in many of the states 20 is the max without a license.
@@TheWannabeOutdoorsman , yes, i think thats why the commenter believes its locked at 20 not back-EMF limited to 20. But i can say everything in that bike was designed to go 20 mph.
The Philippines has several ebike classifications, 2-wheel, more than two wheel, up to 25kph (requires bicycle helmet) and up to 50kph (requires motorcycle helmet). I had mine up to 80 kph (50mph) for testing but its set for 25kph speed 1, 45kph speed 2, 60kph speed 3.
As will all matched component ebikes, that one you have can’t be significantly modified without changing almost everything. But it is possible to iron out some wrinkles if the battery is strong enough and the controller had enough thermal overhead to give a 10-15% shunt mod to. When i did it to mine it was enough to change it from “dang, i might as well walk” to “ok, at least i’m accelerating fast enough to cross a road”. Lol
The nice thing about ebikes is the law is only enforced if you are being a nuisance in most cases.
I would consider a bike like that but I want removable battery (less than 30 seconds) and working front and rear suspension. That bike is strange having rear suspension but not front suspension. My bike is too heavy but since i can remove the battery it makes it easier to carry upstairs after each ride.
@@imho7250 That last paragraph...😊 Agreed
It does not play video
Thanks for letting me know. It was a large file and I had to fix it. It should be playing now🚴