Wet sanding it and buffing it would be AWESOME to add. Add absolutely everything, the transparency would be appreciated even if it takes long. It’s all about the process to completing the operation
Yoooo Chris I love how you are open n transparent in all your videos unlike some other painters that mask up flaws n make every job look perfect ❤️ great job 👍🏽
Chris love the videos. Hate to say it but love when you make mistakes but it’s nice to know that it really does happen to everyone. I appreciate you acknowledging that and not acting like you’re perfect. Great videos.
Hi Chris, I think you did a great job laying the clearcoat in that heat I really did feel your pain as we had some hot weather at times this summer it got to 40C which makes it hard to get a good finish in the clear and sometimes the base as well🙄 I like the Porphis PRD-715 for base as it puts out a fair amount of paint, I use my PRD-717 for clear with it being a split tip it's a bit slower so I have the 1.4 for clear but I think you would have had even more problems if you used the 717 setup for clear in that heat🙏👍👍John UK
You always provide great tips and insights. I like the Finish 1 FC740, but it does have a slightly long "dust free" time frame. Recently I cleared a hood on a hot day and apparently waited a few minutes too long between coats and got some die back. Very frustrating, but another learning experience. Thanks again for another cool video Chris 🙏
Chris, you made several mistakes. As a person living in the hottest major city in America, Phoenix, AZ I know a lot about hot weather spraying. Here's my list: 1) You seem to always turn the fluid in on all of your videos. In hot weather you want as much of a hose as possible. Keep the fluid wide open. I love the Porphis guns and have several of them but for the conditions you were spraying in it's time to whip out a Sagola, SATA or Pro-Lite with the TE20 as these guns are much faster and that's what you need. The best hot weather gun ever made was the DeVilbiss PLUS gun. Load a 1.4mm nozzle on that and run for your life. 2) Extra slow reducer is your friend. In Phoenix, we actually have XXSlow reducer and use it quite often. Also, use the slowest activator available for the clearcoat you're using. Spraying in extreme heat (It's September 29th and it's going to be 109F today) sucks but you've got to adjust to conditions.
You're right. It definitely would help to open up the fluid volume more, especially with that porphis gun. I think it sprays better with the clear coat better with the fluid volume wide open. For clear coat I was using I was using the slowest activator possible. I wish they made that extra slow for it.
@@GarageNoise Add some super slow reducer. Out here in the desert we have a secret weapon called MAK, which stands for Methyl-Amyl-Ketone. Add 5% of this stuff and the clear will flow out nicely. It has a much slower evaporation rate than it's cousin MEK Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone. If you look at the Safety Data Sheet for slow or X-slow reducer they will all contain MAK along with basically cheaper fillers. I simply buy the MAK from a chemical supply store and use it straight up, It's the secret sauce. No dieback problem either.
Just found your channel and subscribed. I noticed you use some dustless/vacuum sanding devices in some of your bodywork videos. Do you have a video about what you use as far as the blocks and papers and what goes with them? I have done some of this previously, just looking to up my game. You have great information in your videos, thank you!
Thanks for the sub! I don't have any specific videos on the system I use. But the system I use is the mirka system. It's kind of pricey like couple $1000. You can find It on Amazon. I love it tho
Amazing video! Much love bro! I need your opinion on pearl white. I had some problems with my base coat so I had to sand down again. I respray base coat but I ran out of time. So pretty much I left it overnight but the question is would I go ahead and scuff lightly and spray the pearl? I’m really clueless 😢
Hi I’ve being watching your videos do you have any advice I’m doing some repair on my van which is froze white I’ve had some made up to my colour code in a spray can but I seem to be getting a dark line in between the two colours like a dirty blend line if that makes sense the spray is two pack so no lacquer needed any advice would be much appreciated thanks great videos by the way 👍
Hi Chris, Crazy hot here in CO for almost Oct. Can you fix die back with sanding and buffing? I don't recall anybody saying how to fix die back perhaps it can't be fixed other than letting the clear coat fully dry then sand with 600 and do a flow coat on a cooler day.
I have several I use the dji mic kinda expensive amzn.to/3NjC8pe I recently been using the Neewer cm28 and it's a very good mic and much cheaper. amzn.to/482vJII
Off topic here , I just painted my base coat on a truck , the paint went down beautiful with the drizzle d1, the only issue I have is the right front fender had some sort of reaction , so I think I’m going to sand the base again and spray it again , what sandpaper should I use and any tips for the reaction site ?
Sand it smooth with 600 if thats too slow you can sand with 320 then sand over with 600. When you spray the base apply a several very light coats and build it gradually if you try to put it on wet it could happen again. Hope this helps
No need to clean out your gun between coats of base now, when you go from base coat to clear coat, you need to clean out your gun, but in between coats of clear or base, just let it sit in the gun
@@GarageNoisethank you so much for the response! what is the max time you figure you can leave material in the gun without issue pending reasonable temps etc between coats?
Wet sanding it and buffing it would be AWESOME to add. Add absolutely everything, the transparency would be appreciated even if it takes long. It’s all about the process to completing the operation
Sadly, I didn't have time to film that process on this repair, but have some other videos on the topic and will definitely do more.
Yoooo Chris I love how you are open n transparent in all your videos unlike some other painters that mask up flaws n make every job look perfect ❤️ great job 👍🏽
I appreciate that brother.
We appreciate your honesty. Great job as always Chris!
👊
Gotta love white ❤. Great job
Thanks bud!
Love the porphis guns ✅🔝, painted whole summer in Croatia over 90 degrees every day
Me too!
Thx for sharing
My pleasure
Chris love the videos. Hate to say it but love when you make mistakes but it’s nice to know that it really does happen to everyone. I appreciate you acknowledging that and not acting like you’re perfect. Great videos.
That's funny! I don't like making mistakes, but I love explaining them to the viewers.
And showing different ways of getting out of tough situations.
@@GarageNoisenobody likes making mistakes lol. You showing us how to get out of them is huge though. Thanks for what you do.
I’m always learning! Thanks. Just ordered the Cool Camaro Tee!
Right on!
Hey, thats very good for open shop painting. Nice! ATB
Thanks 👍
great video thanks nice work
Thanks brother!
Insurance is paying to fix a Sonic?😂😂😂 . Another great video full of tips!
Yeah, more than I expected too.
Hi there Chris brilliant video as usual very well explained why don't you build a proper paint booth in the corner of your garage some where 😊
It's in the process but not in the main shop
Hi Chris, I think you did a great job laying the clearcoat in that heat I really did feel your pain as we had some hot weather at times this summer it got to 40C which makes it hard to get a good finish in the clear and sometimes the base as well🙄
I like the Porphis PRD-715 for base as it puts out a fair amount of paint, I use my PRD-717 for clear with it being a split tip it's a bit slower so I have the 1.4 for clear but I think you would have had even more problems if you used the 717 setup for clear in that heat🙏👍👍John UK
You always provide great tips and insights.
I like the Finish 1 FC740, but it does have a slightly long "dust free" time frame.
Recently I cleared a hood on a hot day and apparently waited a few minutes too long between coats and got some die back.
Very frustrating, but another learning experience.
Thanks again for another cool video Chris 🙏
Thanks so much for sharing that information i really need that, can you do a video how to mix the paint
👊
Would love to see how you fixed the problems with this paint job
Unfortunately I didn't film that, but there'll be many other paint problems that I will film So stay tuned!
Great vid. What do you do about that area on the hood... the "die-back"?
Wet sand and buff takes care of it.
Chris, you made several mistakes. As a person living in the hottest major city in America, Phoenix, AZ I know a lot about hot weather spraying. Here's my list: 1) You seem to always turn the fluid in on all of your videos. In hot weather you want as much of a hose as possible. Keep the fluid wide open. I love the Porphis guns and have several of them but for the conditions you were spraying in it's time to whip out a Sagola, SATA or Pro-Lite with the TE20 as these guns are much faster and that's what you need. The best hot weather gun ever made was the DeVilbiss PLUS gun. Load a 1.4mm nozzle on that and run for your life. 2) Extra slow reducer is your friend. In Phoenix, we actually have XXSlow reducer and use it quite often. Also, use the slowest activator available for the clearcoat you're using. Spraying in extreme heat (It's September 29th and it's going to be 109F today) sucks but you've got to adjust to conditions.
You're right. It definitely would help to open up the fluid volume more, especially with that porphis gun. I think it sprays better with the clear coat better with the fluid volume wide open.
For clear coat I was using I was using the slowest activator possible. I wish they made that extra slow for it.
@@GarageNoise Add some super slow reducer. Out here in the desert we have a secret weapon called MAK, which stands for Methyl-Amyl-Ketone. Add 5% of this stuff and the clear will flow out nicely. It has a much slower evaporation rate than it's cousin MEK Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone. If you look at the Safety Data Sheet for slow or X-slow reducer they will all contain MAK along with basically cheaper fillers. I simply buy the MAK from a chemical supply store and use it straight up, It's the secret sauce. No dieback problem either.
Just found your channel and subscribed. I noticed you use some dustless/vacuum sanding devices in some of your bodywork videos. Do you have a video about what you use as far as the blocks and papers and what goes with them? I have done some of this previously, just looking to up my game. You have great information in your videos, thank you!
Thanks for the sub! I don't have any specific videos on the system I use. But the system I use is the mirka system. It's kind of pricey like couple $1000. You can find It on Amazon. I love it tho
Amazing video! Much love bro! I need your opinion on pearl white. I had some problems with my base coat so I had to sand down again. I respray base coat but I ran out of time. So pretty much I left it overnight but the question is would I go ahead and scuff lightly and spray the pearl? I’m really clueless 😢
Yes, scuff light with grey scuff pad and re-coat
So I would just scuff the base coat lightly and spray the pearl then I’ll go with the clear coat right?
I noticed you were going different direction when you were spraying your clear, how do you not get dry spots?
Your videos are awesome, I have a question when you’re talking about adjusting the air to 20psi, is the trigger pressed or depress??
Without the trigger pressed
Hi I’ve being watching your videos do you have any advice I’m doing some repair on my van which is froze white I’ve had some made up to my colour code in a spray can but I seem to be getting a dark line in between the two colours like a dirty blend line if that makes sense the spray is two pack so no lacquer needed any advice would be much appreciated thanks great videos by the way 👍
Hi Chris, Crazy hot here in CO for almost Oct. Can you fix die back with sanding and buffing? I don't recall anybody saying how to fix die back perhaps it can't be fixed other than letting the clear coat fully dry then sand with 600 and do a flow coat on a cooler day.
Yeah, you can fix die back with a cut and buff . It's just a pain, but can be fixed with no problem
where did you get the blue exhaust fan from?
amzn.to/3ZLMmpU
Hey Chris what type of microphone are you using and do you have a link to purchase, thanks
I have several I use the dji mic kinda expensive
amzn.to/3NjC8pe
I recently been using the Neewer cm28 and it's a very good mic and much cheaper.
amzn.to/482vJII
How much base and how much colorless is needed for the hood? Thanks.
How should I set up my a610 for wide open fluid, what pressure should I set for my base and clear at wide open fluid?
Two videos to help
This gun is the same as your a610
ua-cam.com/users/shortsz4K9scJd5ok?feature=share
ua-cam.com/users/shortsqSUTrBy02Oc?feature=share
Off topic here , I just painted my base coat on a truck , the paint went down beautiful with the drizzle d1, the only issue I have is the right front fender had some sort of reaction , so I think I’m going to sand the base again and spray it again , what sandpaper should I use and any tips for the reaction site ?
Sand it smooth with 600 if thats too slow you can sand with 320 then sand over with 600. When you spray the base apply a several very light coats and build it gradually if you try to put it on wet it could happen again. Hope this helps
Thanks for the info that’s next weekends project now lol ,
What do you do with your gun between coats of paint or clear? Do you just let it sit or clean out and remix new material each coat?
No need to clean out your gun between coats of base now, when you go from base coat to clear coat, you need to clean out your gun, but in between coats of clear or base, just let it sit in the gun
@@GarageNoisethank you so much for the response! what is the max time you figure you can leave material in the gun without issue pending reasonable temps etc between coats?
I always love your work but I wouldn’t blend that pillar. I’m not a fan of blended clear
I feel the same