Fill & Line is NOT gone from Lightburn Laser Software!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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I learn something new about Lightburn in every video!
I appreciate that, *thanks!*
LOVE YOUR COINS Brother and all your teachings! THANK YOU
Glad you like them Joe; much appreciated!
As always, a simple but thorough overview of the feature changes. I love the flexibility Lightburn keeps adding to the software and workflow!
Me too! 👍
Thank you, I just happened to come across this. Very helpful.
You're very welcome!
Game changer for me, man! Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Thanks for the update it seems to be a good fix. You are amazing!!!
Thanks so much Gary!
Glad you made a video about this, because on FB there were so many complaining about the file and line function...This way is much easier and faster, in my opinion this is one of the best Lightburn updates so far. Good job Rich!!!
Glad you liked it Gerald! Thank you!
It isn't easier for people who JUST want to do a simple Fill&Line function. There are now more steps to have to go through to get the same thing that a simple drop down was able to accomplish before.
@@rebeltaz123 All software advances Derek. Just click the clone layer instead of the plus sign and set it to line. Two clicks... not a big deal for all the improvements.
Hi Rich, I just watched your original coin video and was about to message you asking where the line after fill went. Haha Then I saw this video. Great video, I would have been lost without your videos. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks so much Jim!
EXCELLANT AS ALWAYS. Your explanations make it easy. Already did a sample, works great. THANK YOU
Glad to help Martin! 👍
I learn SO much from your vids. Thank you !
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Yep, this answered my problem/question.
Glad to hear Robert!
Thanks so much you rock your videos be just plain to me. You know you have people who try to train and your like huh? Then someone like you shows someone and then your like RIGHT!!! that’s how you do it 😂
Thank you so much Jeremey! I really appreciate it! 👍
Great info on all your videos.I am new to this and have a hard time figuring things out.I am trying to add something to the library so it can show up in the layer bar like yours.
You just select a graphic and click Import Graphic from Project on the Art Library tab. You must have already created a new library to do this.
Thank you so much for all the training! Your the Bob Ross of the laser. LOVE that your name is Rich, my parents Rich and Evelyn. Many thanks!
😮 Wow! Awesome! Thanks for watching Kathleen!
It was great to show it in the simulation, I'll have to create a test on my own laser, since the settings are different based on the individual's specific device.
Glad you liked it Charlie!
Hi Rich Thanks for another great video, been having a bit of trouble with my coin but this video set me right.
Thanks for all you do for us that are not to bright of old and not with it a lot of the time..🤣🤣...Merlin...
Glad you got it done Merlin!
Thank you, I was stumped by this new version.
My pleasure Gary!
Lightburn is great. Glad we have LHG to keep us current with upgrades. Thanks.
Thanks so much Merrill! 😎
Thank you for this piece of the pie.
Coffee of tea with that Chad!
Thanks, can't begin to tell you how much I have learned from and enjoy your videos. Why did you do two passes instead of using the crosshatch feature?
You are truly an EXPERT on managing that little beam of light. I love learning what all LB Can do and having you explain it in plane english is wonderful. Thanks again.
I just show different ways to do it in different videos. Crosshatch is perfectly fine and does the same thing.
Simply put, 1.1 has 30 cut/engrave layers plus 2 tool layers and effectively gives you 60 layer options maximum (line+fill times 30) and 1.2+ gives you 300 layer options (10 options times 30). I call that a HUGE improvement!
Nailed it Jeff! 👍
Great tutorial Rich, thanks.
I've bit the bullet and bought the 10w Ortur head for my LM2PRO.
Awesome! Have fun with it Rob!
I really appreciate your videos, Rich. Thanks for teaching us.
My pleasure Rich!
Thank you Rich, amazing video!
Glad you liked it Donald!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I swear Rich I'm dumber than a half grown rabbit. I came back to your video to set this process up, and to benchmark your speeds and feeds for this trial. Then I discovered LightBurn has 2 libraries, one of which is called "art library", and the other is just "library", I mean who would have thunk it. LOL
So anyhow thanks a bunch man, I'm heading back down to the shop computer to fight with those window panes on the right side of the screen to try and get them to behave like yours with the cuts and layers above and the new found "library" window below it. Heck you probably have a video on it, I'll check before I head back to the shop.
@@donaldtimmons7675 Try this video Donald: ua-cam.com/video/6aLwt5eJX6E/v-deo.html
Coming in clutch again!!! Thanks
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you sir, very very helpful.
You are most welcome!
I had a trial version of light burn and then I bought the license a few minutes ago I never got my key Great stuff Rich keep these videos coming. I will be visiting your web page 👍👍
If you contact support@lightburnsoftware.com, they will assign your license key to your name and email address, and then you can manage it on the website at: lightburn.cryptlex.app/auth/login
Here are the instructions: lightburnsoftware.com/pages/manage-your-license-activations-with-the-license-portal
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks you Rich
hello rich
this is a very intrasant video about line and fill i am very satisfied with your video it teaches me a lot, every day a little bit more i hope many can follow and learn and the techniques how simple it can be if you do a little time for take everything comes very wonderful project.
thank you for this video
Glad it was helpful Luc! Thanks for the support!
I tried this method today for engraving my maker's mark on cutting boards. The first attempt on scrap maple worked great but needed to be a bit darker, so I increased the power. Then with each subsequent attempt, the engraving layers weren't matching up. I'm stumped. I might add that I'm new to this!
Well they should be. Without knowing anything about your machine, it's more than likely a mechanical problem, like belts or eccentric nuts.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I’m using an Ortur LM3. I thought it might be loose belts, so I tightened them a bit, but got the same results.
Check the eccentric nuts and make sure the gantry is tight as well as the module.
Found it Thanks
Great!
Your videos are life savers!
Glad you like them Tyler!
Excellent. Thank you
You are welcome!
great overview
Thanks Steve!
Great video! A lot easier seeing it broken down... not sure if you've made a video of making lasered boxes, but that'd be a cool tutorial 🤙
I have a basic "first timer" box video here ua-cam.com/video/s7qkqUEaYrE/v-deo.html Kevin!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks Rich, I just watched it super helpful thanks! I don't know how I browsed right over it lol thanks again. Love the content!
Great video! Very informative and helpful on using and understanding the updates.
Glad it was helpful Arthur!
Thank you Rich. Awesome video content, your videos are making my learning jouney so much easier.
Glad to help Paul!
Thanks for the update Rich, I tried again to make coins but yet again it did not work for me. I will go back again to watch orginal video, but probably not till next month as I am in the middle of geting ready for a big car show I have been burning heaps of car stuff for it.. Anyway I am picking it something simple I havent done or missed. I am going to suss it. (Well thats one plan)
Have fun with the car stuff Ian. You'll get it!
Great explanation. Well done
Glad you liked it Allen!
Well Rich, I have been trying for over a week now to turn my logo into a coin, I have copied your layout ( with my own ) I just cannot get the reverse bit right. Running Lightburn 1.3 understand the multi layering (watched your video on that ) now going to throw my laser out of the window! 🤣
Hopefully you're on the first floor! 🤪
😂
Rookie question. For speed and power settings, I recall on your 1st coin video you were using plywood I believe. If we wanted to use this method on bamboo (example) and on an 80 watt machine, 6000 and 50% seems high for engraving. The default engraving settings for bamboo and plywood come up as 100 speed and 20% power, so I'm nervous to make just a drastic adjustment. Also in so many videos I've seen where they insist we turn off the air assist on engraving, but in this video it's on for all 4 sub-layers. Just trying not to blow it. Thanks in advance. Very helpful videos.
Hi Tamera, diode and Co2 have different speed rates and power settings. Diode is mm/min, and Co2 is mm/sec. Try this video to get a better idea: ua-cam.com/video/RiFJiLDj9Rs/v-deo.html
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you.
Hello. I love your videos and they are so helpful. I'm new to this. How much is Lightburn monthly after the trial? Which one am I purchasing?
Lightburn is a one-time purchase including one-year of free updates. You can choose to renew the update service after the year at half price if you wish. The Gcode is for diodes, DSP for Co2, and the Galvo is for fiber lasers or Co2 Galvos:
lightburnsoftware.com/pages/which-version-do-i-need
Simple and helpful!
Glad to hear that! Thanks!
Thank you 😀
You're welcome 😊
Thank you love all your of your vedios
Glad you like them Joseph!
Interesting. I'm new to Lightburn and lasers, but never knew this. A couple of questions. Did you do three engrave letters to make a finer, cleaner engrave? And also, could a person just do a regular engrave, then come back with a line layer (on multi layer) after? I guess I'll have to give it a try. I have ran a fill layer before, then a line layer on top of it, with the line layer after the fill layer. Is this what we are doing here, but just doing it all in one layer? Thanks Rich for your help. Oh, one other ting... On the fill layers, if you did say 6000/50, then another at 6000/50 on a cross hatch, that wouldn't engrave the whole thing deeper, right? You just taking out a part of the material on each sub layer?
No, you can't do a fill and engrave on the same layer, you need to use the sub-layer feature. Yes, the coin was a relief engraving, so the crosshatch removed more material and helps with even removal due to the grain in the wood.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Very good, Thank you!
Thank you so much, your awesome, question can you just turn on the cross hatch button instead of layers 1 and 2?
Yes you can!
great options but dang so much added time.
Adding a line sub layer takes the same time as the old Line and Fill option.
Question: Why did you use the 2 fill layers 45 and -45 degrees rather than just one fill layer at 45 degrees marked crosshatch? I'm confused as to when you use crosshatch now! Thank you for your fabulous videos. I've learned sooooo much!
It does a crosshatch at a different angle Marguerite. Regular crosshatch is at a 0° angle, so a different look.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Nope, it does -45, not 90. Please double-check, may be there was a bug but it is fixed by the moment. What I don't understand is why you use overscanning in the sample?
@@Jake-Curious Overscanning is necessary for diode lasers or the edges of the graphic won't burn.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Rich, do you mean it's necessary for "image" layers only?
Great videos. I just started using lightburn and watching your videos. I am not able to figure out how to engrave and cut my project as one run. I’m having to engrave then when it stops I have to select the cut path and run as a cut. I have the Atomstack A-5 M40 Pro. Any help would be awesome. Thanks.
Put the engrave on one layer and the cut on another and it will do both.
thanks!
You bet!
Hey rich thanks for all the tutorials on lightburn, honest question lol to cut what should the speed and power be set to for 15mm thick wood, regardless of it being craft wood or something else. Did you already do a step by step video on making the coin? Lol thanks again man :)
Funny 🤪
I get how it's more versatile but the old way was much simpler. Also wondering if older designs set to use fill plus line will still work.
No Raymond, you have to add in the line. After using it, you'll come to like it better!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy that's what I was afraid of.
Rich, could not simply turn on cross hatch mode for the first 2 fill layers? Seems like that would save some time and give you an additional layer to work with if you needed it.
Yes Al, you can, but I was trying to demonstrate the sub-layers in this video.
where do you set to cut out after engraving
On a separate layer.
t@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you happy new year
Hi! first and foremost thank you for sharing your knowledge has been so helpful. I do have a question we are encountering an issue when doing the multi layer in Lightburn some how when we need to do multiple items at once the first one does great but the other shapes then it starts doing a double line. We have check the alignments of the mirrors and belts all mechanical on our machine and we can not get this issue to stop. we have Lightburn 1.2.01 also we have an OMTECH 70W
Well it's almost always a file design issue Maria. I'm on vacation right now, but if you email me the file I'll look at it for you. thelahobbyguy@gmail.com
Question, Why is my estimated time to finish about 2hrs on something as small as 3”x3” for a fill, but just an outline it takes 3mins? I would have thought it would be around 10-15mins or 20-30mins max. 🤔 Thanks!
You have to go to Device Settings and then the tab that says, Additional Settings. From there, with the laser on and connected, click, Read From Controller to get a better estimate Shiro.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you!
Thanks for the video Rich, as always full of great information and very useful. I was also wondering at first about the Fill+Line feature and started doing duplicate layers at first until I realized you could do multiple sub-layers. One thing I have been doing differently though, and an explanation would be very helpful, is that on the first sub-layer I have been doing a 45 degree with cross hatch instead of two separate ones. Is there any difference in the end result? or am I just saving one step by doing the cross hatch instead of two layers?
Thanks from the sunny south of Spain!
I haven't seen any difference myself. I have found a 0° scan produces better results on a crosshatch though.
Hello Rich, I'm really enjoying your videos and I'm learning a TON from you. But one question I have is do you always run with air-assist on or does it just depend on the project?
When I run my own projects I always us the air assist, Very low when engraving just to keep the lens clean, and on high for cutting.
Why didn’t you use the cross hatch button?
I was trying to demonstrate the sub-layers Stephen.
Is the advanced tab in cuts and layers for a more expensive version, I do not have that, only common.
Edit --> Settings --> Untick Beginner Mode Joe.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well dang, thanks lol.
Why do you do fill#1 and fill#2 instead of just clicking crosshatch?.. You say put fill 1 at 45 degrees and then fill 2 at -45 degrees. would selecting crosshatch do the same thing with one less step?
No, crosshatch would do a 0 and 90° pattern. You can do it either way. I find the 45° produces better results.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'm kinda new to this And that's why I was asking you. For instance when I click crosshatch on my light burn I can change it to 45° maybe we don't have the same version?
Yes you can.
Sorry I found a comment with your reply to this same question. sorry
Rich, the 1 thing that’s not clear is how to create the multiple layers. Do you need to duplicate the original layer and just not move the duplicates off the original? Thanks
No, watch again Steve. You simply click the + sign in the cut editor to add layers. This is the beauty and simplicity of the new editor!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy perfect! Got it. Thanks Rich
were is line after fill i have looked all over lightburn and dont is it
Read the pinned comment below the video Dale.
OK, I got it doing the job, just need to adjust my speed & power some, but the big problem is the letting is coming out backwards, any idea what I did wrong?? can't find how to load pic to this message.
Your origin is wrong in the device settings.
Great video brother! I have a question during this run I'm doing of an image. I want to do a line fill but I can't get out of image mode. How do I escape image mode because you cannot create sublayers in image mode. Thanks!
You have to create a line drawing on another layer.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for your quick reply! I love your videos too. I don't recall seeing a video showing how to do this. Is that from tracing and deleting the original image after duplicating it? Thanks again brother.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy do you have an email address I can send an image of that I'm having issues with?
Click the About page on my channel.
thank you are the best can I ask you some questions about the ortur master 2 if you can
I have a laser forum for that Paul. lahobbyguy.com/bb/
Hi Rich im learning much using light burn. I saw this video you had about text in light burn why does the words print upside down but looks ok in lightburn but backwards on the work piece when engraving can you point me in right direction 👍
I don't know. Perhaps your origin is wrong?
I don't have the visual aid inside cuts editor for changing angle of scan. Can you help?
I can't imagine why Mitch. You can ask on the Lightburn forum, they can probably answer that.
Thanks for the info! By the way, have you tried the Cross-Hatch option in the Cut settings? It might save you from having to setup two sub-layers for cross-hatching.
Yes Joe, it's in my last coin video. I didn't use it in this video because I was demonstrating the sub-layers, thanks!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry I didn't see that. Good to know about the sub-layers 👍
BUT HOW TO YOU MAKE LIGHTBURN NOT BURN IN SOME AREAS WHILE ENGRAVING IN OTHERS? HOW DOES IT SKIP THE WHITE AREAS?
It only burns in colored areas.
How do you determine the line outline power and speed parameters vs fill. Is there a theory?
I run a test card on the material James. ua-cam.com/video/YUTX54JhwUk/v-deo.html
Hi Guy i want to create an animal with a line but want to fill some words alongside it do i do the line drawing first ? im completely new to laser engraving thanks
You have to use different layers Ronnie.
What laser engraver are you using. I have a xtool d1 with the 10 watt laser. Would you recommend about the same settings on my machine
I have 19 lasers Bret.
looks like ver 1.2. 04 chaged again i do not see same page setup on the additional tabs
any ideas?
It looked the same to me Bill. I can't look at it now since I'm on 1.3.0 Beta now.
Question: Any reason you went with 2 different sub layers, one @45° scan and other @-45° scan vs. one sub layer with existing cross hatch scan "on" (still providing two different scan angles)? Does it matter which way or should it turn out the same?
45° scans come out different Douglass.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy in what ways? (Genuinely learning) Trying to visualize this.
Run them both on the same job Douglass and you'll see.
Definitely more options available now and it would seem the test card/methods would need updating to cover the multiple passes you showed. You're not performing the operation in 1 pass each anymore. You do 3 fill passes at lower power which, I'd think, would need to be tested for their combined engraving effect. Lightburn is quickly becoming as option-rich (possibly overkill) as FDM/resin slicers. As the old saying goes, I guess it'll separate the men from the boys in this hobby.
The sub-level tabs are only for fill & line, multiple "hatch" marks & fiber lasers (mostly for fiber) as far as I can see so far. So the test cards still work for baseline testing. You just need to adjust the passes if you're doing custom work.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy unfortunately, the test card that Lightburn generates seems to inherit characteristics of the layer you had selected that you can't see during generation or execute. Cross hatch and five passes was in my layer - test pattern duplicated it and it wasn't obvious why.
I use my own test cards.
So this doesn't work for an image, right? Let's say I'm creating a test burn have 4 or 5 images and want to test the different modes like Jarvis, Grayscale, Stucki etc. but would like each mode line of pictures to burn at different power settings. I can't do this layering right but must set up a separate command for each picture, mode and power setting. Do I have that right? Thank you
Images are done on separate layers Steve.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Well, for what I was trying to accomplish here, I found Shape Properties, which will allow me to adjust power on each image and not create another layer.
How do you get to hatched or mode to go to multi
Thanks. Just figured it out. Love your videos and the timely info on all Lightburn’s updates.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the guidance! So I tried this technique and I end up with what amounts to a "grid" pattern in the fill area. I mean that I can see a "screen door" pattern running vertically and horizontally after all is done, despite the fact that the fills are at 45 and -45 degrees, making then 90 degrees to each other. It is, closest to describe, sort of like a moire pattern but rectilinear. When I run the fill scans vertically and horizontally I do not see the pattern nearly as prominently. There is still some of the grid look, but it is greatly diminished. Anyone else seen this? Any ideas as to the cause? Thanks!
Your lpi is probably too low.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks... I tried that to no effect on my xTool D1 by changing the size from 0.1mm to 0.08 mm. After working with the issue for a bit I could get the pattern to go away simply by moving the wood 90 degrees so that the grain of the wood runs perpendicular to the X-axis. For the test I set up crosshatch at 45 with 3000 mm/min @ 30% and ran both burns using the same settings. In the link you can see the effect I am talking about. The effect is the same for walnut (pictured), baltic birch plywood, and plain old plywood. Just reorienting the grain eliminated the lines. I am completely stumped as to how this is happening when the grain runs along the X-axis and not when the grain runs along the Y-axis. Using 0 and 90 degree crosshatch does mitigate the issue, so it may be something about the 45's. Have you ever seen this before? Thanks! flic.kr/p/2nDw3o4
Rich, I have a D1 20watt, I have not been extremely successful in getting it to work with Lightburn. With the new update, It connects to the laser, but when you go to frame, and now you have to push the button, It draws a line on the horizontal Y axis but does not move at all on the X axis. Yes it works just fine with laserbox, just not lightburn. Any suggestions on what to do to correct it? I would love to be able to engrave then cut without leaving the file. Thank you in advance.
I don't have one, but it's just another problem xTool has to add to the long list. I wish they would spend more time on support instead of pushing new products. You'll have to contact them Richard, sorry.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Tech support is great for Lightburn. They walked me through the problem and I made several cuts with lightburn today. Thank you
@@rickhoguerealtor Good to hear.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching Lonnie!
I wish in my world it was that cut and dry! In production extra work is increased costs without income. Production is smarter and faster with less errors or the compitition will eat you up.
I'm a old term KISS person. This change is real hard on KISS.
In short my operators are graphics artists not laser people. Traditional graphics artists are not trained on how inkjet or laser printers print, they just press print and expect what they designed, maybe tweak the colors. My operators are the same with lasers, a guru sets up the library and they just pick what they need. They know what they want and they know the material. Like driving a car they don't need to know every aspect of how it works to drive home from work. In the past this works flawlessly, few errors mostly with poor guess on material type.
The change made that extremely complicated and increased the errors 3 fold while increasing the time to complete a job by 30%. The features at the surface seem awesome but in depth they are missing the management and hopefully a few new features to make production and use significantly easier. Laser work needs to evolve a bit I suppose to be more like printing work, in printing you don't need to know anything about the hardware and just press print for the most part. If you have 10 printers you only select a different printer and not change every parameter.
As an example, lightburn library is now a recipe system, thats really good actually once polished. The system stores ingredients (single operations) and recipes (multiple single operations). Think of it like your kitchen, you have a library of 100 ingredients that can make 10,000 different meals while only having a short descriptor to describe each recipe creates a problem. You also cannot use the existing ingredients in the recipes and have to re-type them. Its like flour used in many recipes has to be re-typed hundreds of times introducing many errors. Now add to it 10 lasers. Note that 2 lasers from the same manufacturer and model are up to 20% different so each laser needs its own library. Well now you have 100,000 recipes in 10 libraries to manage. What looks simple can get complicated real fast with new options. Now my guru who use to spend 90% of his time doing client projects is spending 90% of his time adjusting recipes in 10 different libraries. So what if you have 10 recipes for beef stew? They all look the same in the descriptor. How do you definitively pick the right one quickly?
The problems that caused us to pause the use to Lightburn due to exponential cost increases was simply typo errors and a pile of lost time trying to find the right library entry. Almost every entry has to be looked at and each of the sub-layers evaluated as will this match the needs. Up front it looks simple but when you have 40 recipes all similar in name with very different operations it gets complicated fast and the number of failed projects goes up. You cannot see the sub operations unless you open the entry and click on each one. If you were in a word processor and had to look up the parameters for bold every time you wanted bold you would take a lot longer to create your document.
Like in the example of the video "Business card - 2in Coin - Engrave" is a typical recipe entry but what is it really for. You won't remember in 6 months nor will anyone around you have any clue as to what it is. So you have to open it and look and find there is 2 fill layers at 6000 mm/min, 50% power so you have to go looking through your ingredients (single operation entries) to find that speed/power to see what its for. Net result is looking up entries takes a significant amount of extra time unless of course you have all parameters for all lasers memorized which won't happen. So I hear "oops" a lot lately and oops to me is $200 in cost and a very upset customer their iPhone case was destroyed.
The solution to that problem is simple, use templates. Templates retain all the original properties. I can still open templates from V 0.9 and they work fine in V 1.21. I loved Microsoft Paint in Windows 1, but it's progressed to Paint 3D in Windows 11. All good software matures and we have to adapt. Better is better IMO... and you don't have to use V1.2 if you don't want to. Previous versions are always available to revert if you wish.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for the thoughts. Interesting I will run tests. We run lightburn for the diodes and CO2 lasers but we also have Galvo which needs v1.2. I attempted to get my guys to ignore the new lib functions and stay with single operations but you know younger folks, gotta play with the new stuff. Its like a drug to them. I may only install v1.2 on the galvo equipment but at any time my guys can press "check for updates" and get the latest. IMO better also is better but better is not take longer to do the same task with higher risk of error.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Templates isn't really a template as per definition, its just a lightburn standard file. The trouble I have is when a lightburn project was saved and the client wants a 2nd run and the laser used in the original file is down for some reason and the laser must be changed as well as a different library, all the settings have to be manually re-created for all layers.
Every laser should have its own library, so I don't see how this is a problem. I have 17 lasers and 26 libraries.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy whooa, lol. How do you keep all them libraries synchronized across multiple workstations? Lightburn isn't network friendly for files opened on multiple machines for read/write.