I have been playing around on the laser for about a year and this is the very best tip I have ever watched on UA-cam. Thank you so much. This was one learning experience!
I'm new to lasers, this is an absolute godsend I want to incorporate laser & CNC work on project pieces, alignment has always been my stumbling block. Thank you
hi from UK - am new to laser stuff ( 1 week in) and have watched several video;s on Absolutes etc and setting up jobs on the laser, and trying to make sense of machine origins vs Job origins etc, and they left as many questions as answers, but your video id by far the best, clearest and most useful on U Tube on this subject. It is at the pace, clear and uses a live example of adding test to an existing job, which had to be perfect, so well done and thanks - I go into the weekend a happier and wiser person Rgds Geoff
Thank you! Brand new to this and I have watched video after video about "framing" and most of them left me more confused. Your step by step instructions are a real game changer for me.
Thank you, I had a job on a rotary that I needed to make darker, the mug was displaced, I suppose your tip and this tool would work to re-align and reprint over the previous lighter print.
I am new to using Laser engraving and lightburn. I absolutely love the way you explain everything. I do have a question though. I have everything set up correctly...so I think, but when I press the start button to create my project nothing comes out on my wood. What am I doing wrong?
with out knowing your setting and type of laser you have it’s tough to help you. most laser have a minimum threshold meaning any power setting below that threshold the laser will not fire. most co2 lasers minx are between 8-12% above that you should see something
I like your videos. They are easy to understand the way you teach. Could you do a video on how to read a test card. We are told to make the test cards on pure materials but I don’t see where it explains the best way to choose your settings from looking at the test card for cut and the one for engrave.
Would this method work if I clicked around a circle? I am putting sprial text on a Dollar Tree glass plate and having hard time centering text on plate. Actually, I am off to Rochester Makerspace to giving it a try. Love Love Love
if you have a diode laser you will have to turn that feature on in lightburn under the gear icon. if you have a co2 laser you would use the pulse button on the controller. thanks for watching
North Texas here, I think I'm gonna start some content soon on using All inches for us true americans. I'm a CNC machinist daily but have hobby CNC machines, all in inches none of that mm/s or mm/m for me. I'll do a chart too those that don't seem to know simple math.
Would you discuss the black laser tube and it’s lenses? Thunder ships with blue but I notice you use a different setup. Is this setup better. Do you get better cuts? Thanks.
that is an 1.5” lens from American photonics it has a smaller beam spot and is my goto lens for engraving and cutting thin materials. Thunder requires a 21mm tube diameter. they have a 4” that works great as well. these lens’s are very affordable.
Hello, I'm new to laser engraving and I subscribed to your channel. I'm getting educated from your videos. How do you move your laser freely as you did in this video? Thank you
You asked for video content suggestions, Could you make a video on Splitting a design in half and using the print and cut feature to cut the design on one board using the pass through. I have a thunder 24 and need to cut some circles 20 inches round
Two things- I noticed that your text looked to be a different height. Is there a job sheet like in vectric products? Also wanted to add a little- I use a similar process when picture engraving on irregular shaped slabs and slices. I use a known dimensioned vector box so that I can position the picture . I make the engrave larger than the piece so that there is no unengraved area. I use a sheet of 3mm underneath, drive to the corners of the vector box, and measure for positioning. Great video, thanks.
Robert first of all thank you for all your knowledge that you share with us! Second I am so happy to watch your videos because you have the exact Thunder Laser that I have! Lastly why does your 4” lens look different than the one I have from Thunder?
I'm having troubles with my laser going to another position on my laser bed and not to where I have my jig set up with the cross hairs. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
I’ve got a camera on my laser. This method is just as fast and you don’t have to wonder if it’s off just a bit. The cameras are ok but if you know your alway around lightburn this is just as fast.. The cameras will get you in the ball park but I’ve learned over the last 2 years of having one that they go out of calibration pretty easily. You spend more time wondering why isn’t it dead on than just getting the work done!
Very informative. Just wondering what speed and power you were using? If you have a video on the height to set the laser head could you please link it. Thanks, Daryl
400/mms 25% power on my Thunder Nova 35-100 watt. I always engrave 1-2 mm out of focus. this 4” lens has a focus of 10mm but I needed to miss the wood on the right so I was 3 mm out of focus. works fine.
Hey I am new to your channel. I was hoping you could go in depth with the Lightburn software and how to use the program. Plus I would love to learn how to find the best cutting setting on several different types of material. Not sure if you have made videos on this yet. You do a fabulous job explaining things. I can't wait to see more content.
Paris, you'll find the settings for cuts/engraving are different for each machine, even for the exact same material. Your best bet for this is something I have done. Each time you get a new piece of material, do a few test cuts on it and some test engravings. Then write on the material what your setting where at each location. You'll come to learn yourself overtime some rough estimates for new material, but you'll always have to test anything new.
Second question, should we only use Absolute Coordinates for setting the laser where we want it? I know this is a dumb question but can you go over current position and user origin? Thank you!!!!
Ok. So that's the rub. WHERE do you place the physical product??? I don't quite follow. Can you just place it "anywhere" on the table? I'm also doing a circular piece of material.
Once you move the laser pointer to the selected location you move your product to the location not the other way around. This way is much faster in most circumstances.
@@computercreationz first, love your vids! I think what I failed to explain properly is that I have multiple EXISTING cut-out pieces . Like the blanks you buy at Amazon, craft stores, whatever... I ended up making a jig. So what I did was take a large piece of quality cardboard (secure it down) , did the layout in the array, and cut out those circles first. Then I can just plop the blanks in those holes, and do the cut or etch that way. Thank you!
So just out of curiosity, instead of using the laser positioning tool and manually doing all of the alignment by hand, why not use the print and cut feature instead? Kind of the same principle, but Lightburn does all of the alignment for you instead. Otherwise, useful info on a rarely talked about tool.
Great video. You asked for video content suggestions, so here goes. Now that you are getting into sublimation, maybe a video on sublimating onto the WHITEBOARD from Lowe's and then laser cutting around the image (or vice-versa)? I have not sublimated onto the white BOARD yet, but have read the white finish will take sublimation, and I think that would give better results than hand painting or staining.
thank you for your suggestions, I’ve tried the white board from the big box store and it didn’t produce the quality I was hoping for. allot cheaper than unisub and board but not near as good of results. give some unisub hardboard a try. thank you for you suggestion.
@@computercreationz The white board is different from HD and Lowes, which one did you try that did not give good results? I will also try unisub hardboard, thanks
Could you do a tutorial on how to replicate projects using a jig. I purchased a jig and e-file on Etsy and the cards doin't all print to the center of the card in lightburn. In fact the patches are all was different. The builder was suggesting many things. Using absolute coordinates to off set the laser to the cross hairs. HELP please. I'm a noob
I am trying to make gift cards for my store, and I am running into a problem. I am using the aluminum business cards. I would like to lay out a 3 card x 3card array of them. My problem is I don't know how to match up the laser and the 54mm x 86mm materials. Please any help would be great.
@@computercreationz That’s awesome. I think we have the same laser, Thunder Nova 35 100w? I need a high res lens but I’m not thrilled about paying $400. Do you have any suggestions? Oh I have the standard and the 4” Thunder lenses!
I wouldn’t get it, I had one and because ifs focus is the thickness of a quarter too much stuff builds up. Buy an 1.5” lens from American photonics 21mm tube. It will provide grest engraving results and it’s very reasonable @@OldVetCreations
Absolute Coordinates one of three “start from” ways the origin is used in lightburn. User origin is one of the other popular start from setting in lightburn
I have 51/130. Do you mind to share the perfect upgrade tools and the set up to my laser? I still masking my material everytime i engraved because its charred. Holiday rush is over and i really want to maximize my machine and re-set up. Im not able to scoring. It scored to the back side of the material even though i only put power 1 and speed 300++ I really need help.
I have never masked since I started with my 51/130. I hired Robert (creator of this video) to teach me my new laser about 10 months ago. The way he explains things and his patience are priceless to me. I was going to have a paperweight had I not found Robert. ha ha.
There should be 3 options… absolute coordinates, user origin and Current Position… perfect example when your trying to do a serving try with handles but your laser head would hit the tray handles… when using current position the laser doesn’t home to the corner… it will stay in your design box
I like you're Videos Thank you for your work New Content? I want to spit a Logo in 3x3 titles To burn it from the Backside on Mirror Titles How can I do this in Lightburn Sorry for my English Heiko from Hamburg/Germany
@@computercreationz thx so much. Is it original equipment or did you add? If you added, how are you dealing with offset? I'm adding crosshair laser to my diode but offsetting in Lightburn.
Have you experimented with the camera function? At least 2 of your vids cover positioning, without covering the excellent camera functions. Example: This is really interesting: ua-cam.com/video/Z4TaZUkvDbM/v-deo.html 5 min into this one you can see how accurate the positioning procedure gets: ua-cam.com/video/Y-Zv--T4bSI/v-deo.html
in use the camera about 10% of the time. it works great for odd shaped objects. With constant movement of the lid you do have to tweak the settings and understand it will get you very close but not dead on. I love it when I need it. but always use the frame feature to ensure accuracy
I have been playing around on the laser for about a year and this is the very best tip I have ever watched on UA-cam. Thank you so much. This was one learning experience!
You're very welcome!
I'm new to lasers, this is an absolute godsend I want to incorporate laser & CNC work on project pieces, alignment has always been my stumbling block.
Thank you
it’s. a very handy feature. I use it all the time! thanks for watching
hi from UK - am new to laser stuff ( 1 week in) and have watched several video;s on Absolutes etc and setting up jobs on the laser, and trying to make sense of machine origins vs Job origins etc, and they left as many questions as answers, but your video id by far the best, clearest and most useful on U Tube on this subject.
It is at the pace, clear and uses a live example of adding test to an existing job, which had to be perfect, so well done and thanks - I go into the weekend a happier and wiser person Rgds Geoff
Thanks for the comments there is another video I have on the differences of origin check it out
Thank you! Brand new to this and I have watched video after video about "framing" and most of them left me more confused. Your step by step instructions are a real game changer for me.
I’m so glad to hear that! thank you for your comments
This was a great info video. I love it when I watch a Lightburn video and actually learn something. Thanks
thanks for the comment! I know what you mean
Thank you, I had a job on a rotary that I needed to make darker, the mug was displaced, I suppose your tip and this tool would work to re-align and reprint over the previous lighter print.
it would be very tricky on a rotary because of the steps per rotation involved that you have no control over.
This is really going to be helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Out freaking standing! Thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks there is always something to learn or relearn. I appreciate you brother.
I appreciate that
Thank you! Straight to the point and clear. Much appreciated.
glad you liked it! thanks for watching
This is really a great video. Why is your locator not “red” when you were setting up?
Thanks for your comment, it’s never been red! is yours red and do,you have a co2 laser?
Great. You should also consider the overrun the laser does if set to that. In your case it worked but was closer than when you checked.
good point for sure,
Great video I'm new to lightburn and wondered how this worked Thanks
Glad it helped
I am new to using Laser engraving and lightburn. I absolutely love the way you explain everything. I do have a question though. I have everything set up correctly...so I think, but when I press the start button to create my project nothing comes out on my wood. What am I doing wrong?
with out knowing your setting and type of laser you have it’s tough to help you. most laser have a minimum threshold meaning any power setting below that threshold the laser will not fire. most co2 lasers minx are between 8-12% above that you should see something
I like your videos. They are easy to understand the way you teach. Could you do a video on how to read a test card. We are told to make the test cards on pure materials but I don’t see where it explains the best way to choose your settings from looking at the test card for cut and the one for engrave.
Great suggestion!
bloody fantastic i watched all your video's really grateful
Glad you like them! Thank you for watching
Would this method work if I clicked around a circle? I am putting sprial text on a Dollar Tree glass plate and having hard time centering text on plate. Actually, I am off to Rochester Makerspace to giving it a try. Love Love Love
Thanks again, Robert. Great content.
You are Very welcome, thanks for the comments
Thank you very much Robert.Helpful video for us.
You are very welcome, thank you for your comments!
I really needed this tip. Thank you so much!
You're so welcome!
Thank You!
Very helpfull!
But what type of Honeycomb pins do you use in thi svideo? They look very interesting....!
TKS
I got them on Etsy. just search for thunder laser honeycomb hold down pins. they work great!
Where did those cool plastic tabs (or pins) come from?
On Etsy search up Thunder laser honeycomb pins
Hi and thanks for this outstanding video! How to fire the laser light (to check the position on the wood) from the LightBurn control software ?
if you have a diode laser you will have to turn that feature on in lightburn under the gear icon. if you have a co2 laser you would use the pulse button on the controller. thanks for watching
Great video thanks for the cool info!! Love your Videos
Thanks for watching! and I appreciate the comment.
Love the video how would this work on a round coaster.
Thanks
Lightburn has a finding the center tool built in. Look up center finder tool in lightburn
Оmg! Why I didn't watch this video sooner!? This could save me so much time and materials 😢
Thank you for a good tutorial!
Cheers from Texas!
back at cha from Nevada
North Texas here, I think I'm gonna start some content soon on using All inches for us true americans. I'm a CNC machinist daily but have hobby CNC machines, all in inches none of that mm/s or mm/m for me. I'll do a chart too those that don't seem to know simple math.
Would you discuss the black laser tube and it’s lenses? Thunder ships with blue but I notice you use a different setup. Is this setup better. Do you get better cuts? Thanks.
that is an 1.5” lens from American photonics it has a smaller beam spot and is my goto lens for engraving and cutting thin materials. Thunder requires a 21mm tube diameter. they have a 4” that works great as well. these lens’s are very affordable.
Hello, I'm new to laser engraving and I subscribed to your channel. I'm getting educated from your videos. How do you move your laser freely as you did in this video? Thank you
All the movements on
My co2 laser are done by my controller on the laser. If you have a diode you will use the move tab in Lightburn
Great tutorial. What are the hold downs you are using to stabilize your piece? I need some!
I got the on Etsy, just search thunder laser honeycomb pins
You asked for video content suggestions, Could you make a video on Splitting a design in half and using the print and cut feature to cut the design on one board using the pass through. I have a thunder 24 and need to cut some circles 20 inches round
house of lasers has a really nice video on just that. go check them out! thank you!
How do you do? Question, where did you get the hold down pins, I work with ticker materials, and your pins look ideal, thanks?!
I buy all my honeycomb pins off of Etsy. Just search for honeycomb pins( by laser manufacturer )
Two things- I noticed that your text looked to be a different height. Is there a job sheet like in vectric products? Also wanted to add a little- I use a similar process when picture engraving on irregular shaped slabs and slices. I use a known dimensioned vector box so that I can position the picture . I make the engrave larger than the piece so that there is no unengraved area. I use a sheet of 3mm underneath, drive to the corners of the vector box, and measure for positioning. Great video, thanks.
Yes the customer wanted the second bit of text to be a bit smaller so the name stands out.
Thanks for sharing very helpful video 👍
My pleasure
This is so helpful, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you so much for this! your content has helped so much !
Thants great to hear Carissa, thank you for the comments
Great tip! thanks so much for the information.
Glad it was helpful!
Robert first of all thank you for all your knowledge that you share with us! Second I am so happy to watch your videos because you have the exact Thunder Laser that I have! Lastly why does your 4” lens look different than the one I have from Thunder?
if your referring the black one it’s an aftermarket 4” lens from American photonics.
Great video! I do sublimation and love it. I am trying to learn laser engraving as well.
That's awesome! Thanks for the comments
Thank you sir!!! You are most helpful!
Happy to help
Great video. Could you do a review of your Nova 35 ? Also, what laptop are you using please? thanks
I’m using the Lenovo flex 5 with an i5 processor and 8 gb of ram. Own it for 2 years and it’s been the best pc I’ve ever owned.
Once again, very helpful!
Glad to hear it! Thank you for the comments
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Hope I appreciate your comments. I enjoy your content as well.
@@computercreationz I'm honored you watch mine. I can tell we both love helping and learning. Here is a to GREAT 2022.
Do you have a video on homing the laser ?
Thank you
usually homing your laser co2 related will do that automatically via the controller.
I'm having troubles with my laser going to another position on my laser bed and not to where I have my jig set up with the cross hairs. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Are you selecting the icons then clicking where you want your laser head to go in lightburn?
Great video. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Wouldn't the camera take the guesswork out of it? Excellent video to know how to do it manually though. Granted I'm a total newbie.
I’ve got a camera on my laser. This method is just as fast and you don’t have to wonder if it’s off just a bit. The cameras are ok but if you know your alway around lightburn this is just as fast.. The cameras will get you in the ball park but I’ve learned over the last 2 years of having one that they go out of calibration pretty easily. You spend more time wondering why isn’t it dead on than just getting the work done!
Very informative. Just wondering what speed and power you were using? If you have a video on the height to set the laser head could you please link it. Thanks, Daryl
400/mms 25% power on my Thunder Nova 35-100 watt. I always engrave 1-2 mm out of focus. this 4” lens has a focus of 10mm but I needed to miss the wood on the right so I was 3 mm out of focus. works fine.
Hey I am new to your channel. I was hoping you could go in depth with the Lightburn software and how to use the program. Plus I would love to learn how to find the best cutting setting on several different types of material. Not sure if you have made videos on this yet. You do a fabulous job explaining things. I can't wait to see more content.
Paris, you'll find the settings for cuts/engraving are different for each machine, even for the exact same material.
Your best bet for this is something I have done.
Each time you get a new piece of material, do a few test cuts on it and some test engravings.
Then write on the material what your setting where at each location.
You'll come to learn yourself overtime some rough estimates for new material, but you'll always have to test anything new.
Noted!
Thanks Joshua! I will keep trying new settings. It's hard to figure the correct settings. I feel like I mostly get charred edges. 🤪
Where did you get those laser hold down jigs clamps
bought them off of Etsy, search for thunder honeycomb hold down pins
Second question, should we only use Absolute Coordinates for setting the laser where we want it? I know this is a dumb question but can you go over current position and user origin? Thank you!!!!
no use user origin is my favorite. look at the latest video I just published it will discuss this
Ok. So that's the rub. WHERE do you place the physical product??? I don't quite follow. Can you just place it "anywhere" on the table? I'm also doing a circular piece of material.
Once you move the laser pointer to the selected location you move your product to the location not the other way around. This way is much faster in most circumstances.
@@computercreationz first, love your vids! I think what I failed to explain properly is that I have multiple EXISTING cut-out pieces . Like the blanks you buy at Amazon, craft stores, whatever... I ended up making a jig. So what I did was take a large piece of quality cardboard (secure it down) , did the layout in the array, and cut out those circles first. Then I can just plop the blanks in those holes, and do the cut or etch that way. Thank you!
So just out of curiosity, instead of using the laser positioning tool and manually doing all of the alignment by hand, why not use the print and cut feature instead? Kind of the same principle, but Lightburn does all of the alignment for you instead. Otherwise, useful info on a rarely talked about tool.
lots of different ways to do this. it jus depends on how well you know lightburn!
Can you tell me how you moved the screen left and right please
Hold the middle scroll wheel down on my mouse. That is the pan feature. Using lightburn without a mouse with a scroll wheel is painful
Ok I use a laptop
Great video.
You asked for video content suggestions, so here goes. Now that you are getting into sublimation, maybe a video on sublimating onto the WHITEBOARD from Lowe's and then laser cutting around the image (or vice-versa)? I have not sublimated onto the white BOARD yet, but have read the white finish will take sublimation, and I think that would give better results than hand painting or staining.
thank you for your suggestions, I’ve tried the white board from the big box store and it didn’t produce the quality I was hoping for. allot cheaper than unisub and board but not near as good of results. give some unisub hardboard a try. thank you for you suggestion.
@@computercreationz The white board is different from HD and Lowes, which one did you try that did not give good results?
I will also try unisub hardboard, thanks
@@phototec I tried the one from Hd. Not impressed
Thanks for the tip.
Happy to help
Could you do a tutorial on how to replicate projects using a jig. I purchased a jig and e-file on Etsy and the cards doin't all print to the center of the card in lightburn. In fact the patches are all was different. The builder was suggesting many things. Using absolute coordinates to off set the laser to the cross hairs. HELP please. I'm a noob
I have a couple of videos already on the channel that show you how to lay out a jig from scratch that should fit your needs .
Thank you, very helpful.
You're welcome!
Thank you very much.
You are welcome!
I am trying to make gift cards for my store, and I am running into a problem. I am using the aluminum business cards. I would like to lay out a 3 card x 3card array of them. My problem is I don't know how to match up the laser and the 54mm x 86mm materials. Please any help would be great.
I have a number of video on how to build a jig for this application check some of those out. thanks for watching
in this procedure my laser switch off after few seconds, why? There is some way to keep it on?
this would be best addressed with lightburn. thank you
I know this is an old video but could you tell me what lens you are using on this Thunder laser? Thank you!!!!!
that is a 4” lens from American photonics!
@@computercreationz That’s awesome. I think we have the same laser, Thunder Nova 35 100w? I need a high res lens but I’m not thrilled about paying $400. Do you have any suggestions? Oh I have the standard and the 4” Thunder lenses!
I wouldn’t get it, I had one and because ifs focus is the thickness of a quarter too much stuff builds up. Buy an 1.5” lens from American photonics 21mm tube. It will provide grest engraving results and it’s very reasonable @@OldVetCreations
Very Helpful, Thank you for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Your welcome on the 10k follow and congrats
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
What do you mean by absolute co ordinates?
Absolute Coordinates one of three “start from” ways the origin is used in lightburn. User origin is one of the other popular start from setting in lightburn
How to automatic lower and rise the bed on light burn to achieve focus kiscut and after cut at the right high
I appreciate the suggestion!
2:15 good info starts here.
exactly
Where did you get the hold downs for your honeycomb bed?
Etsy, just search for Thunder hold down pins
Did you make the hold down clamps?
bought them on Etsy. search for Thunder laser honeycomb hold down pins
Do you have anything on engraving cast acrylic, setting and speed?
I have a taco stand video on my channel it’s all about cast acrylic engraving.
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this!!
No problem!
Thanks!
appreciate the contribution it makes a big difference
Just press Frame after you set the first point.
that’s one way to do it!
Could you do me a favor. Please move your camera position away from the settings. Your clicking on things that we cant see. thx! Good work by the way.
I appreciate the input and will try to do better next time!
I have 51/130. Do you mind to share the perfect upgrade tools and the set up to my laser? I still masking my material everytime i engraved because its charred.
Holiday rush is over and i really want to maximize my machine and re-set up. Im not able to scoring. It scored to the back side of the material even though i only put power 1 and speed 300++
I really need help.
ugrading to external air supply will make a huge difference in your cuts. search thunderlaserusa web site and they have lots of info n it.
I have never masked since I started with my 51/130. I hired Robert (creator of this video) to teach me my new laser about 10 months ago. The way he explains things and his patience are priceless to me. I was going to have a paperweight had I not found Robert. ha ha.
You write that everything is OK. But in the design, the words are on one line and the engraving is lower than the original. How do you explain that?
nothing to explain, it was aligned! no need to respond I see what your doing!
Sitzt du in einem Puppenhaus ?
What’s a head crash?
it where your laser head hits your material on your laser bed!
What if it is a circle?
Use the center finder tool in Lightburn!
Can you show us this with a circle?
There is a center finder tool in LightBurn. I made a short on this wonderful quick tool
Thanks.
You're welcome
Help with mirror alignment
I’ll add to my list! thank you
Can you make a Laserburn for Dummies video?
thanks for the input!
You’re supposed to switch to current position from absolute coordinates when using that option
This feature does not work in user origin on my Lightburn!
There should be 3 options… absolute coordinates, user origin and Current Position… perfect example when your trying to do a serving try with handles but your laser head would hit the tray handles… when using current position the laser doesn’t home to the corner… it will stay in your design box
Love your videos btw
I like you're Videos
Thank you for your work
New Content?
I want to spit a Logo in 3x3 titles
To burn it from the Backside on Mirror Titles
How can I do this in Lightburn
Sorry for my English
Heiko from Hamburg/Germany
Than you for your comments, the cut shapes feature would be perfect for what you want to do. lightburn has a great video on that feature.
Great tool it will help. Sorry to criticize but your text looks lower than what's already there
Thanks for watching! always appreciate the input
What light is showing on workpiece? That’s not a laser.
It a small red dot laser that shows where the laser will strike when fired. This iama co2 style laser not a diode.
@@computercreationz thx so much. Is it original equipment or did you add? If you added, how are you dealing with offset? I'm adding crosshair laser to my diode but offsetting in Lightburn.
Standard on all thunder lasers@@bonose12
Photo engraving!!
not sure I understand you statement. clarify please
Have you experimented with the camera function? At least 2 of your vids cover positioning, without covering the excellent camera functions. Example: This is really interesting:
ua-cam.com/video/Z4TaZUkvDbM/v-deo.html
5 min into this one you can see how accurate the positioning procedure gets:
ua-cam.com/video/Y-Zv--T4bSI/v-deo.html
in use the camera about 10% of the time. it works great for odd shaped objects. With constant movement of the lid you do have to tweak the settings and understand it will get you very close but not dead on. I love it when I need it. but always use the frame feature to ensure accuracy
I bet you can't put a pattern on a letter
easy peasey
Great video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you for your contribution I really appreciate it!