Thanks so much for watching! Looking for the best Christmas Presents? Check out my list of Black Friday Deals and Discounts HERE! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic/list/32NH5NTIPU29S?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_J615J3A4C6N36BE5Q756
You’re not making that clear- you didn’t count overhead, cutting time, prep of the chain time. Add in that and maybe your 5-15% which fine and much smarter to offer a higher quality product and have whatever size people need.
I believe it was Oregon who set up a tent to help hurricane Helene victims. They were repairing saws, sharpening chains all for free. That was a great service. Support their business if you can.
When I got my first chainsaw in about 2000, I did not know how to sharpen chains. I tried to do it with a dremel, but I often ended up buying a new chain. I didn't use it that often so it was not that big a deal. In 2013 I bought a saw mill so I bought a Stihl 661, Well at first I struggled because I still couldn't sharpen worth a darn. I'd try a hand file, and my cut would curve off to the side so I bought a few chains. I then bought a chainsaw mill and a Sthl 090 saw and I got an electric sharpener from Granberg which did work but was cumbersome and took time. After a lot of online discussion on the forestryforum, I was advised to buy a Stihl 2n1 file holder. That was a game changer. From then on I could sharpen my chain, on the saw, in 5 minutes and it cut like a new chain or better. From then on I sharpened my chain until there wasn't enough tooth left. My chains now last a long time. I flip my bar every so often, and I've bought one or two new bars over time. But I now get the full life out of my chains and that saves me a ton of money and time and frustration.
Our household genuine appreciates your upfront and honest character. Down-to-earth businesses is where we aim to take our money, and its more and more difficult to find those types of people running those types of businesses ... at least where we live
Thanks for the video. When I had my tree business I wanted to support my local shop. I didnt have time to fix saws if I was out working. I just drop my stuff off and pick up asap instead of having another job at night. They took care of me and I gave them a lot of business.
Thanks 4 the tip! Huus-kvarna, thats right pronounciation, it means house-mill founded 1620 under Gustaf II Adolf, called The Lion of the North. But even swedes call it husky sometimes.
I think its great your trying to save people money. I'm just a homeowner that has 1 saw and uses it a few times a year. I was buying stihl chains from Amazon but then ran across a chain from china for less than half the price, so I decided to try it. The chain out of the box was sharper than the stihl and didn't dull as fast either. Just thought I would share this with someone who might need a saw a few times a year and would like to save some money. The chain is a Kakei.
I just bought a Chinese Stihl clone and fully expected to have to immediately replace the chain. To my surprise it stretched less than the more expensive chains and holds an edge just as good. I was so impressed with the saw I bought another one even though I have 4 Stihls and a Husqvarna.
Benefit from my experience, even if B. disapproves~ I have had success using carb and throttle body cleaner in the gas tank of my chain saws and snowblower. The snow blower in particular took several minutes of running on quick start before the fuel jet was fully clean but it now runs better than ever. Using neat engine oil or automatic transmission fluid in gas tank at season end helps for new season starts. Any dissents feel free to speak and explain R. B.
I need to do mine as well because when you first start it you can tell the diaphragm is a little stiff. The SRM Echo is 5-6 years old and still running on factory parts, and any MTD (More Trouble Daily) would already be in a dumpster.
@@heavymechanic2 I got a echo rebuild kit from eBay. Hardest part was getting spring under needle valve toggle Put a tiny amount of Vaseline on bottom of spring to hold in place
I work at a stihl dealership. This past year, all stihl saws that came standard with .325 pitch/ .063 gauge chain are now being sold with .325 pitch/.050 gauge chain.
I looked into this once before. And it is considerable savings. Though its gonna take buying 3 100' rolls before you pay off all the tools you need to finish the production of each chain.
All .325 bars that come standard on new Stihl saws or sold as replacements are .325 w/ .050 unless you special order a bar with a different gauge size.Husky uses .325 w/ .058 or .063.
Great info Bree. I've been making my own chains for over 20 years. The one thing I do, is add a few drops of oil on the links before I flatten the rivet down. Also, you didn't mention that there are 2 different size handles and "grinding head", or what ever they are called. The smaller ones are for 3/8 LP and .325, and the bigger ones for 3/8 and .404. Also, buy a spare tip for the breaker, as, if you are new at it, you just might break one, (wonder how I know) and it's good to have a spare. My last one has lasted over 20 years.
Most of the time we leave the shop at sunrise and get back by sunset. We would take 10 chains for each saw. Never sharpened them while working. Change out a chain, gas, oil and go. If there was a saw problem or chains needed sharpened, they get dropped and picked later. If the saws, chipper, grinder isnt running the business isnt making money. The big stuff i serviced on Saturday, That's why you have a shop!!! BECAUSE WE NEED YOU!!!!! THANK YOU!!! 👍🏻💪🤝
That’s good advice about the chains. I had chains for multiple sizes of saws for our tree service. Keeping a sharp chain makes the work much faster so we always did. Sometimes it is easier to run the file across to get through the job, but usually I would change the chain and get back to work. I had every size chain on the roll and I did use them sometimes. We have a local dealer here that would sell Stihl chains two for one every October and we would really stock up. Usually by summer I would have to spend some time on the sharpening machine and get them all back into good condition. After our local dealer started the October sale I never made another chain. When I quit the tree business I gave all of my inventory to a young arborist who was just starting up. He definitely fell into a tub full butter because I gave him everything except my sharpening machine. Best Regards Al Hartley
Ive used oregon and stihl chains for nearly 40 years...always prefer the stihl as they seem to be a bit harder tooth, stretch less, oil the bar better and stay sharper longer but the oregon do pretty good also. Of course the stihl cost more
What a contrast a VW Beetle and a Vette side by side in the garage!!! What a performance difference!! Years ago I raced gokarts, I would buy the chain and "adjust" to length. I have a small chain breaker that I would push the pin most of the way out, leaving it in the bottom outer link, and then press it back into the top link, a few taps to relieve the compression on the link and I was good to go.
I inherited my grampas old husky & his rolls of chain. The saw is way too heavy for this truck driver to use so I’ve bought newer modern saws. This video motivated me to order the linker/delinker tools!
Good tip, plenty of money to be saved by buying bulk chain and making your own. I would say though, having the proper anvils for breaking is faster than adjusting the adjustable anvil. Also, not sure about the comment on 1/4" chain. I used to break and spin it on occasion with no problems.
Not mentioned but part of the equation is the cost of your labor. Even if you don’t pay yourself anything, the time invested in making chains is taking time away from some other project or task. Plus Oregon has many other numbers of chain that different folks request; for instance, someone wants a full chisel and the next person wants a semi-chisel. Plus the smaller chains have the safety anti-kickback ramps versus the same size chain that does not have the anti-kickback feature. I worked in an equipment dealership also, but didn’t do much volume in chain saws but I did try making a few chains just like Brea demonstrated.
Thank you so much for your videos !!! Seams like the chains in the boxes are to long your have to use up half of your adjustment or more to get them to proper the tension. No shops will take out links anymore . Because of liability issues . I used to shorten chains when I was in high school cutting fire wood. The shop that I used sold me the block & links it was easy to do didn't have the rivet spinner I just peened them over. Shops now wont sell you the links I go to Amazon to get my parts. I'v bought several of the tools you use thank you again for what you do for all of us . Have a wonderful Thanks giving .
I buy one chain every five years. This was a fantastic, informative video!! This is like telling people to go fill their propane tanks at a shop instead of exchanging tanks. Save you lots of $$$. 😊😊😊
I love your site, there's usually something new to learn and you deliver the information excellently. I've been making chains from roll for years. One thing that you didn't point out is that the connecting links ( actually all the side plates) are directional. If you look closely, the forward end is slightly deeper than the rear and the rear is noticeably longer. The Oregon links should be fitted with the chain running left to right (the opposite of what you showed) or the chain will have a tight spot as it rounds the nose wheel.
If you've got commercial guys who are buying 8-10 chains every few weeks, no amount of savings is going to change them. They're only interested in convenience. Which is fine, time is money and not every savings is worth the time.
Small pop rivet shank is the same hole size on the chain, I have 4 nailed into the wall near the spool hanger, hook the chain on the top and let it hang, mark the link and then break and rivet.
I was up in the air for 20 years over buying by the roll and cutting my own chain I decided against it. I had a 511 AX Oregon bench sharpener and could make a chain last a very long time. I had my firewood proccessor for 13 years and that had the 404 pitch chain I think that was 080 gauge chain 1 summer I processored 45 tri-axle loads of firewood at 16 inches on 1 chain I get 25 foot pole wood with about 80 logs per truck so thats 1440 cuts per load x 45 = 64800 cuts per chain so I would just buy chains from someone like you as my local shop is owned by a women and like you she is a very good mechanic. What I am pointing out is with care in sharpening you can make a chain last a very long time. have a great thanksgiving
if I burned through a chain a day, I'd consider cutting my own. but I wear out a chain every 5 years or so. so I support my local saw shop. they have to make a living, too.
Fixed location, wood not on ground is the VAST minority of chain buyers. Vast majority are rocking their chains and why they are going through chains left and right.
I'm a big fan of saving money so thank you for your tips. There's no doubt that there's a savings associated with buying chain in bulk but you should include labor, tooling, and waste in the calculation. The most likely beneficiary of DIY chain is the professional, most likely with a crew. If the crew is making chains and installing them they are probably getting paid and not cutting trees while doing it. It might still be a savings, just not as much as initially thought. Thanks for the black Friday tips!
Doesn't take long to do. Just do it myself at the shop and give to my crew...use them for what you hired them to do. Making your own chains is paying yourself.
@@kjay5056 I'm not discounting the benefits of making your own chains, only pointing out that there are other costs to factor in when evaluating the true savings. If you're paying yourself the value of your time needs to be added.
@@kjay5056You are correct but could you also use some time to seek out and bid new jobs so the crew can keep working efficiently. I had people working for me also and a certain amount of my time was spent keeping the work flow efficient, maintaining customer relations, purchasing and managing the business’s inputs, and seeking new business. Over a span of about 33 years, I routinely worked 5-1/2 ten hour shifts per week to keep the business going.
Well you need the splicing tools also. In addition ("to boot," said way up north, means in addition to) most folks are not going to know all the sizes, pitch, gauge, ect. Better off to come to you or another pro for the cost and convenience.
You can tell higher volume commercial users how easy it is to save money by making your own chains and i bet that the vast majority will still not wish to go down that path, welcome to the new world where people would rather just spend money and not worry about adding any time to do additional tasks on their list. Cheers.
Its a business expense to pass on to the customer. Like government contract work where they lease everything and the extra expense is no problem. You or i lease something more than a week; you might as well buy it.
You can "pay yourself" $40/hr to cut your own chains, or you can bill the customer $100/hr+ for doing a job. If the guy is as busy as he wants to be it makes the most sense to maximize your time on the job and outsource everything that cost fewer $/hr than what you're able to charge.
Yes I'm not commercial but I can make loops for about 60% of the retail price. It's worth it for me to buy rolls and make my own. Even buying rolls at $400 from my local dealer I'm saving money. That's for 3/8 full skip chisel stihl, Oregon is a bit cheaper. If you're buying a couple 16 inch loops a year it's not really worth the money, but when you are buying chain for bars over 25 inches and buying many a year its definitely worth the investment.
A 20" Oregon chain is $12 each in a 3 pack. At $400/roll thats $16 per chain. You would have to get a roll for UNDER $300 (and ignore the master links) to save even a dollar over the whole roll.
@Kent-pb2jl nice. Like I said i am buying chains for 25 inch bars or bigger. The oregon chain for a stihl 362 with a 25 inch bar is 28 bucks. I can buy oregon chain on rolls quite a bit cheaper than stihl. My local shop sells stihl so that was the price I referenced. I will be putting oregon nano on my small saws so that's a completely different level. Like I said when you buy chain for bars 25 and up they are more expensive than your typical homeowner stuff you can get. If it's a better price for you to buy loops go for it. It's not for some of us.
Carbide chainsaw chain is supposed to last 15-20x longer than standard chain. I don’t know what the cost is, but they make it for firefighter applications and forestry.
I've been cutting my own chain for years and you are so right on this issue money can be made. It takes a bit to keep from freezing up your splices. Precut chains are crazy overpriced. This is great information for everyone that cuts wood. Good job.😊
I’m finding the same thing in the HVAC industry. Customers can buy entire systems online for about the same as what I can get them from a distributor. It’s hard to make money when everyone wants a skinny deal. Everything is being driven to online vendors.
@ I don’t know the exact loophole but I think it has to do with a homeowners right to service their own property. The EPA restricts sale of refrigerant so I don’t know how they are getting by with selling fully charged units.
@PhilipNation-xm5lh they restrict the sale of BULK refrigerant, but the systems are designed to not need to be charged, since they are pre-charged. So no risk of venting refrigerant.
Couldn’t help but chuckle at your pronunciation of Husqvarna and Poulan. That ain’t how we say it here in the south, lol. I’m sure I’m not the only one out here who has taken links out of a chain without the benefit of a breaker or riveter, but it sure looks easier. You do a good job of taking the mystery out of a stinking chainsaw engine.
Nice content. When I was doing an overgrown cleanup, I would buy the Oregon Bar kit but it was a 52 link and my trim saw requires a 53 link, but it will go on if you work with it. Not practical for me to cut chain because I'm not in the saw business, I did get several chains destroyed by stones. I really like Oregon chain but I did use some knock off brands as I was cutting roots and F-ed up plenty of chain. Found a thin pruning blade for a reciprocating saw to be real handy as the blades were super cheap to trash.
I don't use enough chains up myself for rolls of chains. I do have a cheap Harbor Freight sharpener. Works well on all the different chain types and suits my needs nicely.
I have an electric saw for quick jobs, a gas saw for bigger jobs and a pole saw. They all use different chains, of course, but the Harbor Freight sharpener works on them all
A good hint for you. Look at the oil-soaked label's or rubbed and smear. If I need a paint number on a can or like you chain... I take some clear packing tape. I put a layer over the label. Then add another layer of that has an end folded over. If you need it the outside one might be sloppy. Peel back the top one the bottom one is clean, and you can read. replace top on as needed or tape the top back on.
I go to the shop to get chains because I don't have the time to sit down and make chains. Bigger outfits with more people maybe but at the end of a 10 hr day last thing I feel like doing is cutting splicing chain
I have tried various chains, but actually found that Oregon chains cut the best out of the box, for what I was doing which was cutting bowl blanks from green, new felled timber with electric saws, so a bit more ripping than most people do . But pre made was fine I was only buying about 2 chains a year
I use skip tooth chain but the thing is you need a bigger saw to run it. I've got a 500i and it does very well. Yes 100 ft roll is the way to go, also we have our own electric automatic sharpener
my father who is 96 now on the first chainsaw in the county here and I believe it was a maul? They had a gear reduction Drive,, meaning they did not turn over as fast and had much more power behind it, even with the size bigger chain than what's normally on a 20 inch bar, he could still pull the rivets out on it if the chain wasn't Sharp or would cut into a hard knot? Back then it was all waste oil for on the bar and chain. He would rivet the chain back together out in the woods? Back then, everything was rivets, so we had a good understanding of the task. Oh to clear up something,, he had a 28 inch bar and I was just comparing it to the 20-inch bar that everybody's familiar with.
Cut and joined a thousand chains with a punch and breaker anvil ,comes in the stihl bag. Not quite as easy but a bit of practice and any chain is not a problem.
A tip for YOU, Chains saws sold in different location's different STATES REQUIRE CERTAIN CHAINS. The SAFETY chains ""anti kick back"" All saws in NV. have a different sprocket that will ""Only fit"" the safety chains, To accept a skip tooth chisel bit chain, wanted to use on a NV. saw I would have to change the bar and engine sprocket to make it work. Because I live in WA State I'm able to buy the skip tooth ""NOT AVAILABLE IN NV"" SO MY SONS SAW GOT THE SAFETY I'm running a Stile MS 361 WITH DEEP CUT RAKERS, SKIP TOOTH. and only ethenal free premium fuel with Stile oil. One of my better saws. I enjoy your channel, you tell it how it is. Thanks
I'm wondering how they plan to enforce those laws. Are the chainsaw chain police roaming around looking for offenders? How do they keep people from ordering what they want online? It's insanity gone wild!
@@JamesCouch777As I said you can't buy the product in your state EVERYTHING NOW HAS STATE APROVAL. OTF KNIVES won't ship in WA. 55 gal barrel stove kits, gun in WA with more then 10 rounds, I do agree it's bullshit. You become a criminal for your want.
Years ago I use to take my chains to the sawmill for sharpening . Then I learned how to sharpen chains . I prefer to hand sharpen over using my electric sharpener . The guy at the mill sharpened with a machine then cryovacked the chains after . They did stay sharp a little longer . Now the mill is gone and I kinda retired from fixing stuff
I usto buy those Oregon pre cut chains from a Amish guy when I still lived in Pennsylvania he sold them cheaper than the big box stores so made it easier to run my at the time 2 husqvarna 455 ranchers and a husqvarna 435 16 inch saw I saved one 455 for emergency use and sold the other two saws regret that decision but yet moved to Illinois not having trees around so I now have a Dewalt pruning saw for small stuff and few times a month run my husqvarna just to keep it in good running condition I baby that saw since I bought it on day one enjoy the content have a happy Thanksgiving
Novice at cutting my own saw chains. This is my first year trying my hand at this, quick question. What are my options with the leftover chain loop ends? Are they scrap or can they be linked to next roll? Or something else. Thank you for your time and making videos to help us to be more educated.
Full chisel works for softer woods. In hardwood like oak, hickory, hedge. Especially winter time in frozen wood. You will want semi chisel. I never use Oregon chain. Better options.
Well I'm just a home own maintaining all the trees on my property and I have plenty . I like the Stihl yellow link chain . I know my local Mom and Pop mower shop I buy parts from and is a Stihl dealer and they makes chains for me now and then for all my antique chainsaw from a roll of yellow link .
I buy as much as I can on line but I also buy a lot at local hardware store, only one in town and we need it😮 We buy all can food on line now and can meats I have a friend that cuts me 6 chains a year and sends them to me, big savings plus I order for friends also 😊
one thing you forgot to mention..--on the master links one edge has a cutout. be sure that goes towards the drivers on both pieces. its there so on spur clutches theres clearance. rim hubs it doesnt matter. had a friend trash his hub on a polock saw because of that. also there are tons of varieties in chains i.e. chisel, chipper, half skip, full skip , etc.
Nice video. Great analysis but most commercial guys will buy so many chains because they do not want to waste time to sharpen them. For the same reason they will not cut their own chains. I use the same chain until it rips or get twisted. I file them until I get to the stop mark. I used the same chain for years
Where I live you almost have to order parts online. The only small engine repair shop that was any good closed (the owner was 85) and all that’s left are a couple of sketchy guys who are unreliable. We need a chickanic!
Did a little bit of math that works out to .33 cents per drive Link for the 25 charge on a 20-inch chain so that's real Fair. I learned how to lengthen and short and chain several years ago and I've gotten to the point where I go to the pawn shop and I'll find Chainz hanging on the wall when somebody sells a saw and there's three extra chain in the box and since I know what Chainz ought to be I can buy a 20 inch chain for a couple dollars and if I need to I can link them or shorten them. I learned that before I learned about you but at least it shows even a guy can learn.... Thanks for all the extra info.
Great Video! The Stihl bar on my new 261C says 325 0.050 1.3mm but you said that was like for the Husky saws. And the Oregon made to fit Stlih 28" bar I got for my China clone 660 says 0.050 also.
it's called Convenience. you pay more for convenience because you can get it faster. just as buying a gallon of milk at a convenient store cost more than a gallon of milk at a supermarket, where you would have to wait in a much longer line for checkout.
Thanks so much for watching! Looking for the best Christmas Presents? Check out my list of Black Friday Deals and Discounts HERE! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic/list/32NH5NTIPU29S?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_J615J3A4C6N36BE5Q756
@@Chickanic I ordered the pressure washer pump conditioner from your Amazon page. Used my power washer today to clean off concrete patio
What is the chain difference in a cutting and ripping chain
You’re not making that clear- you didn’t count overhead, cutting time, prep of the chain time. Add in that and maybe your 5-15% which fine and much smarter to offer a higher quality product and have whatever size people need.
The only thing I don't like about your videos is the wedding ring...great channel.
@ why does her wedding bother you so much. Get a life man
I believe it was Oregon who set up a tent to help hurricane Helene victims.
They were repairing saws, sharpening chains all for free. That was a great service.
Support their business if you can.
It should have been ALL the chain saw Companys helping out.
That's who you want to support!
I hope they didn't put a big fat logo on their tent while they were helping people.
Husky sent pallets of free saws.
@@Pure_KodiakWILD_Power
Okay, 🤡
It's okay to promote a business when you're doing something for free.
When I got my first chainsaw in about 2000, I did not know how to sharpen chains. I tried to do it with a dremel, but I often ended up buying a new chain. I didn't use it that often so it was not that big a deal. In 2013 I bought a saw mill so I bought a Stihl 661, Well at first I struggled because I still couldn't sharpen worth a darn. I'd try a hand file, and my cut would curve off to the side so I bought a few chains. I then bought a chainsaw mill and a Sthl 090 saw and I got an electric sharpener from Granberg which did work but was cumbersome and took time. After a lot of online discussion on the forestryforum, I was advised to buy a Stihl 2n1 file holder. That was a game changer. From then on I could sharpen my chain, on the saw, in 5 minutes and it cut like a new chain or better. From then on I sharpened my chain until there wasn't enough tooth left. My chains now last a long time. I flip my bar every so often, and I've bought one or two new bars over time. But I now get the full life out of my chains and that saves me a ton of money and time and frustration.
The vast amount of knowledge you have is amazing. I just love the fact you're willing to share it with everyone. Thank you.
Our household genuine appreciates your upfront and honest character. Down-to-earth businesses is where we aim to take our money, and its more and more difficult to find those types of people running those types of businesses ... at least where we live
Thanks for the video. When I had my tree business I wanted to support my local shop. I didnt have time to fix saws if I was out working. I just drop my stuff off and pick up asap instead of having another job at night. They took care of me and I gave them a lot of business.
Thanks 4 the tip! Huus-kvarna, thats right pronounciation, it means house-mill founded 1620 under Gustaf II Adolf, called The Lion of the North. But even swedes call it husky sometimes.
DOOSAN means Mountain of grain.
I have a great respect for folks like you who are honest about what you do and really try to help people save money. Happy Thanksgiving!
I think its great your trying to save people money. I'm just a homeowner that has 1 saw and uses it a few times a year. I was buying stihl chains from Amazon but then ran across a chain from china for less than half the price, so I decided to try it. The chain out of the box was sharper than the stihl and didn't dull as fast either. Just thought I would share this with someone who might need a saw a few times a year and would like to save some money. The chain is a Kakei.
I just bought a Chinese Stihl clone and fully expected to have to immediately replace the chain. To my surprise it stretched less than the more expensive chains and holds an edge just as good. I was so impressed with the saw I bought another one even though I have 4 Stihls and a Husqvarna.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family ! Continued success and all the best !
Benefit from my experience, even if B. disapproves~ I have had success using carb and throttle body cleaner in the gas tank of my chain saws and snowblower. The snow blower in particular took several minutes of running on quick start before the fuel jet was fully clean but it now runs better than ever. Using neat engine oil or automatic transmission fluid in gas tank at season end helps for new season starts. Any dissents feel free to speak and explain R. B.
Chick you've always been there for your customers. Merry Christmas
You will be proud of me. Rebuilt Zama carb on Echo SRM225 diaphragm needle valve and fuel screen
That's awesome!
I need to do mine as well because when you first start it you can tell the diaphragm is a little stiff. The SRM Echo is 5-6 years old and still running on factory parts, and any MTD (More Trouble Daily) would already be in a dumpster.
@@heavymechanic2 I got a echo rebuild kit from eBay. Hardest part was getting spring under needle valve toggle Put a tiny amount of Vaseline on bottom of spring to hold in place
Great advice. A good chain, with a good sharpener is well worth it.
I work at a stihl dealership. This past year, all stihl saws that came standard with .325 pitch/ .063 gauge chain are now being sold with .325 pitch/.050 gauge chain.
I looked into this once before. And it is considerable savings.
Though its gonna take buying 3 100' rolls before you pay off all the tools you need to finish the production of each chain.
All .325 bars that come standard on new Stihl saws or sold as replacements are .325 w/ .050 unless you special order a bar with a different gauge size.Husky uses .325 w/ .058 or .063.
Great info Bree. I've been making my own chains for over 20 years. The one thing I do, is add a few drops of oil on the links before I flatten the rivet down. Also, you didn't mention that there are 2 different size handles and "grinding head", or what ever they are called. The smaller ones are for 3/8 LP and .325, and the bigger ones for 3/8 and .404. Also, buy a spare tip for the breaker, as, if you are new at it, you just might break one, (wonder how I know) and it's good to have a spare. My last one has lasted over 20 years.
When you refer to the grinding head are you talking about the handle on the tool that flattens the rivet?
Most of the time we leave the shop at sunrise and get back by sunset.
We would take 10 chains for each saw.
Never sharpened them while working. Change out a chain, gas, oil and go. If there was a saw problem or chains needed sharpened, they get dropped and picked later. If the saws, chipper, grinder isnt running the business isnt making money.
The big stuff i serviced on Saturday,
That's why you have a shop!!! BECAUSE WE NEED YOU!!!!!
THANK YOU!!!
👍🏻💪🤝
That’s good advice about the chains. I had chains for multiple sizes of saws for our tree service. Keeping a sharp chain makes the work much faster so we always did. Sometimes it is easier to run the file across to get through the job, but usually I would change the chain and get back to work. I had every size chain on the roll and I did use them sometimes. We have a local dealer here that would sell Stihl chains two for one every October and we would really stock up. Usually by summer I would have to spend some time on the sharpening machine and get them all back into good condition. After our local dealer started the October sale I never made another chain. When I quit the tree business I gave all of my inventory to a young arborist who was just starting up. He definitely fell into a tub full butter because I gave him everything except my sharpening machine.
Best Regards Al Hartley
Ive used oregon and stihl chains for nearly 40 years...always prefer the stihl as they seem to be a bit harder tooth, stretch less, oil the bar better and stay sharper longer but the oregon do pretty good also. Of course the stihl cost more
Yep I 100% agree with you I like Stihl yellow link better than the green link .
What a contrast a VW Beetle and a Vette side by side in the garage!!! What a performance difference!! Years ago I raced gokarts, I would buy the chain and "adjust" to length. I have a small chain breaker that I would push the pin most of the way out, leaving it in the bottom outer link, and then press it back into the top link, a few taps to relieve the compression on the link and I was good to go.
Love this woman’s work - great video, thank you👍🙏
I inherited my grampas old husky & his rolls of chain. The saw is way too heavy for this truck driver to use so I’ve bought newer modern saws. This video motivated me to order the linker/delinker tools!
Good tip, plenty of money to be saved by buying bulk chain and making your own. I would say though, having the proper anvils for breaking is faster than adjusting the adjustable anvil. Also, not sure about the comment on 1/4" chain. I used to break and spin it on occasion with no problems.
Not mentioned but part of the equation is the cost of your labor. Even if you don’t pay yourself anything, the time invested in making chains is taking time away from some other project or task. Plus Oregon has many other numbers of chain that different folks request; for instance, someone wants a full chisel and the next person wants a semi-chisel. Plus the smaller chains have the safety anti-kickback ramps versus the same size chain that does not have the anti-kickback feature. I worked in an equipment dealership also, but didn’t do much volume in chain saws but I did try making a few chains just like Brea demonstrated.
Great advice Chick ... I've been making chains for people for years ..its a pleasure not a chore.
Why does she have to spin the handle while setting rivets?
@@ltcajh I think its heating up the rivet. I don't know. I would say that its slowly crushing the rivet but I don't see it move at all. I don't know.
Thank you so much for your videos !!! Seams like the chains in the boxes are to long your have to use up half of your adjustment or more to get them to proper the tension. No shops will take out links anymore . Because of liability issues . I used to shorten chains when I was in high school cutting fire wood. The shop that I used sold me the block & links it was easy to do didn't have the rivet spinner I just peened them over. Shops now wont sell you the links I go to Amazon to get my parts. I'v bought several of the tools you use thank you again for what you do for all of us . Have a wonderful Thanks giving .
I buy one chain every five years. This was a fantastic, informative video!! This is like telling people to go fill their propane tanks at a shop instead of exchanging tanks. Save you lots of $$$. 😊😊😊
I love your site, there's usually something new to learn and you deliver the information excellently.
I've been making chains from roll for years. One thing that you didn't point out is that the connecting links ( actually all the side plates) are directional. If you look closely, the forward end is slightly deeper than the rear and the rear is noticeably longer.
The Oregon links should be fitted with the chain running left to right (the opposite of what you showed) or the chain will have a tight spot as it rounds the nose wheel.
If you've got commercial guys who are buying 8-10 chains every few weeks, no amount of savings is going to change them. They're only interested in convenience. Which is fine, time is money and not every savings is worth the time.
Definitely worth making your own chains. Oh really, interesting. Have to hear that.
Small pop rivet shank is the same hole size on the chain, I have 4 nailed into the wall near the spool hanger, hook the chain on the top and let it hang, mark the link and then break and rivet.
I just go to my brother in law’s shop. He was a logger all of his life and his three sons have carried on. Made their own chains for years.
I was up in the air for 20 years over buying by the roll and cutting my own chain I decided against it. I had a 511 AX Oregon bench sharpener and could make a chain last a very long time. I had my firewood proccessor for 13 years and that had the 404 pitch chain I think that was 080 gauge chain 1 summer I processored 45 tri-axle loads of firewood at 16 inches on 1 chain I get 25 foot pole wood with about 80 logs per truck so thats 1440 cuts per load x 45 = 64800 cuts per chain so I would just buy chains from someone like you as my local shop is owned by a women and like you she is a very good mechanic. What I am pointing out is with care in sharpening you can make a chain last a very long time. have a great thanksgiving
if I burned through a chain a day, I'd consider cutting my own. but I wear out a chain every 5 years or so. so I support my local saw shop. they have to make a living, too.
Fixed location, wood not on ground is the VAST minority of chain buyers. Vast majority are rocking their chains and why they are going through chains left and right.
I'm a big fan of saving money so thank you for your tips. There's no doubt that there's a savings associated with buying chain in bulk but you should include labor, tooling, and waste in the calculation. The most likely beneficiary of DIY chain is the professional, most likely with a crew. If the crew is making chains and installing them they are probably getting paid and not cutting trees while doing it. It might still be a savings, just not as much as initially thought. Thanks for the black Friday tips!
Doesn't take long to do. Just do it myself at the shop and give to my crew...use them for what you hired them to do. Making your own chains is paying yourself.
@@kjay5056 I'm not discounting the benefits of making your own chains, only pointing out that there are other costs to factor in when evaluating the true savings. If you're paying yourself the value of your time needs to be added.
@@kjay5056You are correct but could you also use some time to seek out and bid new jobs so the crew can keep working efficiently. I had people working for me also and a certain amount of my time was spent keeping the work flow efficient, maintaining customer relations, purchasing and managing the business’s inputs, and seeking new business. Over a span of about 33 years, I routinely worked 5-1/2 ten hour shifts per week to keep the business going.
Well you need the splicing tools also. In addition ("to boot," said way up north, means in addition to) most folks are not going to know all the sizes, pitch, gauge, ect. Better off to come to you or another pro for the cost and convenience.
Great, except on site any delay would cost you more and there's not always the convenience of bench mounted kit. Keep that in your pocket!
You can tell higher volume commercial users how easy it is to save money by making your own chains and i bet that the vast majority will still not wish to go down that path, welcome to the new world where people would rather just spend money and not worry about adding any time to do additional tasks on their list. Cheers.
They would rather pay someone else to do it than to take a chance that one of their people screw up and someone is injured
It's a business expense.
Its a business expense to pass on to the customer. Like government contract work where they lease everything and the extra expense is no problem. You or i lease something more than a week; you might as well buy it.
You can "pay yourself" $40/hr to cut your own chains, or you can bill the customer $100/hr+ for doing a job. If the guy is as busy as he wants to be it makes the most sense to maximize your time on the job and outsource everything that cost fewer $/hr than what you're able to charge.
5:46 Just for information: E. g. the Makita DUC355 (Cordless Chain Saw; 18V x 2 (36V)) uses also this 0.043″ chain.
Yes I'm not commercial but I can make loops for about 60% of the retail price. It's worth it for me to buy rolls and make my own. Even buying rolls at $400 from my local dealer I'm saving money. That's for 3/8 full skip chisel stihl, Oregon is a bit cheaper. If you're buying a couple 16 inch loops a year it's not really worth the money, but when you are buying chain for bars over 25 inches and buying many a year its definitely worth the investment.
A 20" Oregon chain is $12 each in a 3 pack. At $400/roll thats $16 per chain. You would have to get a roll for UNDER $300 (and ignore the master links) to save even a dollar over the whole roll.
@Kent-pb2jl nice. Like I said i am buying chains for 25 inch bars or bigger. The oregon chain for a stihl 362 with a 25 inch bar is 28 bucks. I can buy oregon chain on rolls quite a bit cheaper than stihl. My local shop sells stihl so that was the price I referenced. I will be putting oregon nano on my small saws so that's a completely different level. Like I said when you buy chain for bars 25 and up they are more expensive than your typical homeowner stuff you can get. If it's a better price for you to buy loops go for it. It's not for some of us.
Thanks for the information I would love to learn to make my own chain. I really liked your video about the ethanol shield also.
Carbide chainsaw chain is supposed to last 15-20x longer than standard chain.
I don’t know what the cost is, but they make it for firefighter applications and forestry.
I've been cutting my own chain for years and you are so right on this issue money can be made. It takes a bit to keep from freezing up your splices. Precut chains are crazy overpriced. This is great information for everyone that cuts wood. Good job.😊
I’m finding the same thing in the HVAC industry. Customers can buy entire systems online for about the same as what I can get them from a distributor. It’s hard to make money when everyone wants a skinny deal. Everything is being driven to online vendors.
How do they get around not having an hvac license?
@ I don’t know the exact loophole but I think it has to do with a homeowners right to service their own property. The EPA restricts sale of refrigerant so I don’t know how they are getting by with selling fully charged units.
@PhilipNation-xm5lh they restrict the sale of BULK refrigerant, but the systems are designed to not need to be charged, since they are pre-charged. So no risk of venting refrigerant.
Yes, just like buying a window unit at the box store.
@@Rorschach1024
You're talking about the equipment they put in mobile homes, it's junk.
Couldn’t help but chuckle at your pronunciation of Husqvarna and Poulan.
That ain’t how we say it here in the south, lol.
I’m sure I’m not the only one out here who has taken links out of a chain without the benefit of a breaker or riveter, but it sure looks easier.
You do a good job of taking the mystery out of a stinking chainsaw engine.
Nice content. When I was doing an overgrown cleanup, I would buy the Oregon Bar kit but it was a 52 link and my trim saw requires a 53 link, but it will go on if you work with it. Not practical for me to cut chain because I'm not in the saw business, I did get several chains destroyed by stones. I really like Oregon chain but I did use some knock off brands as I was cutting roots and F-ed up plenty of chain. Found a thin pruning blade for a reciprocating saw to be real handy as the blades were super cheap to trash.
I don't use enough chains up myself for rolls of chains. I do have a cheap Harbor Freight sharpener. Works well on all the different chain types and suits my needs nicely.
I have an electric saw for quick jobs, a gas saw for bigger jobs and a pole saw. They all use different chains, of course, but the Harbor Freight sharpener works on them all
Thank you, great post! Chain knowledge!
Thanks!
A good hint for you. Look at the oil-soaked label's or rubbed and smear. If I need a paint number on a can or like you chain... I take some clear packing tape. I put a layer over the label. Then add another layer of that has an end folded over. If you need it the outside one might be sloppy. Peel back the top one the bottom one is clean, and you can read. replace top on as needed or tape the top back on.
I’ll use Oregon chain win hell freezes. I only use chain that holds an edge. I’m not over running an expensive saw to cut.
I go to the shop to get chains because I don't have the time to sit down and make chains. Bigger outfits with more people maybe but at the end of a 10 hr day last thing I feel like doing is cutting splicing chain
I have tried various chains, but actually found that Oregon chains cut the best out of the box, for what I was doing which was cutting bowl blanks from green, new felled timber with electric saws, so a bit more ripping than most people do . But pre made was fine I was only buying about 2 chains a year
@@CrimeVid In my experience OREGON chain stretches more than STIHL. ⬅️➡️
Great video as usual,
You have a lovely workshop and stable there too,👌🌹
So true, thanks for sharing,
You are like a total blessing to every holiday, thank you and God bless 👌
I use skip tooth chain but the thing is you need a bigger saw to run it. I've got a 500i and it does very well. Yes 100 ft roll is the way to go, also we have our own electric automatic sharpener
my father who is 96 now on the first chainsaw in the county here and I believe it was a maul? They had a gear reduction Drive,, meaning they did not turn over as fast and had much more power behind it, even with the size bigger chain than what's normally on a 20 inch bar, he could still pull the rivets out on it if the chain wasn't Sharp or would cut into a hard knot? Back then it was all waste oil for on the bar and chain. He would rivet the chain back together out in the woods? Back then, everything was rivets, so we had a good understanding of the task. Oh to clear up something,, he had a 28 inch bar and I was just comparing it to the 20-inch bar that everybody's familiar with.
good advice. Ordered by spinner today.
Thank you Bre
You can order them from discount chain and bars or get them at home depot.
Some people use stihl bars or stihl style bars on there husqvarna so when braking chains it's a good idea to go 1 extra drive link
I started buying Stihl chain to run on my Husky chainsaw. Costs more upfront but they last a long time
Thank you kindly for teaching us
We have a Cutters Choice near here. I can get 3 chains and a bar for the same price as 2 Stihl chains! And they’re every bit as good
Cut and joined a thousand chains with a punch and breaker anvil ,comes in the stihl bag. Not quite as easy but a bit of practice and any chain is not a problem.
I'm not using a chainsaw on a daily base, but the "Made in Italy" sticker on the riveter makes me proud. 😉
A tip for YOU, Chains saws sold in different location's different STATES REQUIRE CERTAIN CHAINS. The SAFETY chains ""anti kick back"" All saws in NV. have a different sprocket that will ""Only fit"" the safety chains, To accept a skip tooth chisel bit chain, wanted to use on a NV. saw I would have to change the bar and engine sprocket to make it work. Because I live in WA State I'm able to buy the skip tooth ""NOT AVAILABLE IN NV"" SO MY SONS SAW GOT THE SAFETY I'm running a Stile MS 361 WITH DEEP CUT RAKERS, SKIP TOOTH. and only ethenal free premium fuel with Stile oil. One of my better saws. I enjoy your channel, you tell it how it is. Thanks
I'm wondering how they plan to enforce those laws. Are the chainsaw chain police roaming around looking for offenders? How do they keep people from ordering what they want online? It's insanity gone wild!
@@JamesCouch777As I said you can't buy the product in your state EVERYTHING NOW HAS STATE APROVAL. OTF KNIVES won't ship in WA. 55 gal barrel stove kits, gun in WA with more then 10 rounds, I do agree it's bullshit. You become a criminal for your want.
Yes I just ordered a bar with chain for less than the name brand chain locally 😊
After counting your links mark the correct one with a paint pen.
I always used a Sharpie when I worked at a shop making chains too
White acrylic pen for me !
Years ago I use to take my chains to the sawmill for sharpening . Then I learned how to sharpen chains . I prefer to hand sharpen over using my electric sharpener . The guy at the mill sharpened with a machine then cryovacked the chains after . They did stay sharp a little longer . Now the mill is gone and I kinda retired from fixing stuff
I usto buy those Oregon pre cut chains from a Amish guy when I still lived in Pennsylvania he sold them cheaper than the big box stores so made it easier to run my at the time 2 husqvarna 455 ranchers and a husqvarna 435 16 inch saw I saved one 455 for emergency use and sold the other two saws regret that decision but yet moved to Illinois not having trees around so I now have a Dewalt pruning saw for small stuff and few times a month run my husqvarna just to keep it in good running condition I baby that saw since I bought it on day one enjoy the content have a happy Thanksgiving
Chickanic, you are my hero! Thank you for ALL you share! Happy Thanksgiving!
Novice at cutting my own saw chains. This is my first year trying my hand at this, quick question. What are my options with the leftover chain loop ends? Are they scrap or can they be linked to next roll? Or something else. Thank you for your time and making videos to help us to be more educated.
Thank you. You always have the most informative videos with clear instructions.
I used to have a visegrip chain breaker, used a hard metal surface and ball peen hammer to reassemble the chain
As a Canadian, we don't even have black Friday but we have black Friday sales for at least a month. Other than that, thanks for all the great videos!
Yes, it's on every stupid website and in every store. Cheap garbage!
I order from Bailey's online. They sell house brand chain cheaper already in loops or you can buy rolls..
34 yrs in business, on my second roll if 100 ' 3/8" chain.Never bought " pre-made loops". I make em last a long time.
Full chisel works for softer woods. In hardwood like oak, hickory, hedge. Especially winter time in frozen wood. You will want semi chisel. I never use Oregon chain. Better options.
Well I'm just a home own maintaining all the trees on my property and I have plenty . I like the Stihl yellow link chain . I know my local Mom and Pop mower shop I buy parts from and is a Stihl dealer and they makes chains for me now and then for all my antique chainsaw from a roll of yellow link .
Excellent information. I don't go through chains that often but this was still very informative.
That's a great tip. And though I know it is cheaper to buy via on-line, I still prefer my local guys whenever possible.
I have a vice grip chain breaker and spinner tool that works good for out in the woods.
I always learn something from this UA-cam channel. Excellent resource.
I buy as much as I can on line but I also buy a lot at local hardware store, only one in town and we need it😮
We buy all can food on line now and can meats
I have a friend that cuts me 6 chains a year and sends them to me, big savings plus I order for friends also 😊
Can't you get real food in your area?
Happy Thankgiving from North Carolina Chickanic. Enjoyed the video. Take care and God bless.
one thing you forgot to mention..--on the master links one edge has a cutout. be sure that goes towards the drivers on both pieces. its there so on spur clutches theres clearance. rim hubs it doesnt matter. had a friend trash his hub on a polock saw because of that. also there are tons of varieties in chains i.e. chisel, chipper, half skip, full skip , etc.
I won't need a new saw chain for quite some time, but your Black Friday list is very thoughtful and kind.
Nice video. Great analysis but most commercial guys will buy so many chains because they do not want to waste time to sharpen them. For the same reason they will not cut their own chains. I use the same chain until it rips or get twisted. I file them until I get to the stop mark. I used the same chain for years
I am amazed how much stuff i can get cheaper on amazon vs stens and i am a stens dealer. As a small ship owner it makes a difference.
Where I live you almost have to order parts online. The only small engine repair shop that was any good closed (the owner was 85) and all that’s left are a couple of sketchy guys who are unreliable. We need a chickanic!
Did a little bit of math that works out to .33 cents per drive Link for the 25 charge on a 20-inch chain so that's real Fair. I learned how to lengthen and short and chain several years ago and I've gotten to the point where I go to the pawn shop and I'll find Chainz hanging on the wall when somebody sells a saw and there's three extra chain in the box and since I know what Chainz ought to be I can buy a 20 inch chain for a couple dollars and if I need to I can link them or shorten them. I learned that before I learned about you but at least it shows even a guy can learn.... Thanks for all the extra info.
Thanks for the info!
Have you done any vids on the history and restoration of your vw bug, corvette, other cool collectibles? Would be interesting.
I use a 572. And have thought about grabbing tools for all my saws.
Great Video! The Stihl bar on my new 261C says 325 0.050 1.3mm but you said that was like for the Husky saws. And the Oregon made to fit Stlih 28" bar I got for my China clone 660 says 0.050 also.
it's called Convenience. you pay more for convenience because you can get it faster. just as buying a gallon of milk at a convenient store cost more than a gallon of milk at a supermarket, where you would have to wait in a much longer line for checkout.
Good morning Bre!!
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Great voice and funny. I forgot about that one.
Time to make another one. 😀
Great advise! Thanks.