$800 part every 10,000kms - the HUGE PROBLEM with my Engine Conversion
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- I have a huge problem with my Barra Swap that results in total drive failure. In the video we attempt to fix it with Brett from Custom Machine works.
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Build a custom 4wd they said it will be fun they said 🤣
😂😂
For all intentions and purposes it is fun to fix it just sucks to buy expensive shit
There's an old saying that a lot of people need to learn...For every item you alter there's another three things you'll have to fix.
Find the cheapest most accessible spare parts in the line and when that becomes the weak link,, stop modifying that line hahaha.
Like drive shafts on an IFS commodore. Cheaper to blow the C.V joints than to pop a diff
I’ve had a few Barra issues in the past and Brett gave me some help. Very smart and knowledgeable man.
Yes he is!
Awesome episode Rich. Brett is a great mate of mine, genuinely one of the smartest fellas I know and a great bloke too.
Can you ask Brett to make his own channel
@ he definitely could, I’ll let him know it’s been requested. Haha
Great bit of work on the mill and even better seeing how nice it all lined up in the end
More eps like this richo. Awesome seeing people who are genuinely perfectionists solving issues. Gotta love seeing a mill used right too.
Thanks Liam, will do them when I can. Hopefully I don't have too many issues 😂
I did my barra conversion 5 years ago on my patrol. Glad I have never had this issue. Great video, first time viewed to your channel.
Glad you haven't had the problem! The Patrol adaptors without a spud shaft don't seem to! Cheers Luke, glad you enjoyed the video.
@DesignedandBuilt i should of mentioned im still using the patrol manual, but heaps of people have had issues with clutches set up wrong etc.
Cheers Rich, love the detail!!! Hope others are watching. Could watch this all day long. Great ep
Thanks Mark!
Great episode Rich! Brett is a real old school machinist, love it
Brett is a true legend knows his shit and humble about it 💪👌
Good work on getting alignment sorted for transfer case. Any plastic pulleys on the old 2.7lt hilux or LS1 cruiser have been changed to steel for reliability issues
It’s the move, I had 1 last plastic one left and it was the one that failed!
Great vid , thx Richard. Aligning will be a huge improvement, I've been through this with Rexroth hydraulic motors, running the spline in an oil bath was the only 100% fix
Wow man really knows his stuff what a legend !!!
He's a smart cookie!
@ 100%, these are the people we need to invest in!!!!
Glad he has people like you helping get his name out
Land Rover had the same issue with input spline wear, they cross drilled the input gear to allow oil to get to it and it fixed the issue.
Am i the only one impressed with ol mates thumb work on the alan key?
😂 expert at flicking the bean
Love the technical detail as always 😊
Cheers Dan!!!
I worked with brett to get the patrol zf8hp transfer adaptor done. Just got it all together and running in the gu. Can say he is great at what he does and a great product.
Ingenious work ,well done man !
Love it! keep'em coming!
Working towards an 8HP swap in my 80 series, going with a Domi-works adapter which replaces the transfer case input shaft doing away with spud shaft. As for reliability time will tell.
Should make mention the video was informative and something that has not been covered elsewhere, thanks for sharing.
Hi, are buying your adaptor from a supplier in Aus, or buying it from overseas?
Already purchased one from the the first batch imported by 8 Speed in QLD. First impression is finish on adapter and input shaft look the part.
Should mention the Domiworks adapter is for BMW 8HP to Toyota transfer.
I have seen another adaptor that does that for the 6 speed, I don't think it is required if it works properly as spud shafts are used in conversions all the time without problems.
Smart man love his work 😊
Although the next part of the trip is no doubt in the past, hopefuly Back to the Future Rich's holiday goes smooth from here. Thanks for sharing
haha thanks mate!
Hopefully it's all sorted for you now, great video thanks 👍
That was fascinating and enjoyable to watch. Thanks!
Definitely keen to see a Barra Ranger !
Rich. I posted earlier about the spline fretting wear, you are experiencing but I strongly recommend you to pull the spud shaft out and re-assemble the spud shaft with liberal application of loctite 680 on the spline. The rusty looking wear at 5:19 is fretting wear, (typical of a loose spline). The rust colour is not residual grease. Greasing the spud shaft does absolutely nothing. Lock that spline up solid with loctite 680. Also there are technical papers written by engineers on spline wear. It is a widespread industry problem. Interference fits eliminate the fretting.
Another great informative video.
Good ep mate, looking forward to the next one. 💯
Cheers Scott!
The ZF transmissions are known for having bad alignment on their output shaft to mounting boss, fords were eating transfer cases for years before they fixed it.
Maybe I missed it, but what material is the adapter shaft made from. Also how are the splines lubricated at the t/case end? Looks a lot like fretting corrosion….
Good question, not exactly sure. Potentially EN36, it does kinda look like corrosion but I think its just reminance of the red grease I had in it.
It would be good to see a barra swapped Ranger on here.
You do one clown.
How do you like the dewalt electric ratchet?
Hey you seem to be having a lot of issues with the serptine setup, may be an idea to talk to dandy engines or Moe engines or power house engines, they build a lot of modified high rpm speedway barra engines they may be able to help you out with ideas or products so you don't have further issues
This car is fully engineer approved and road legal. The others are not.
@nordic5490 uhhhh yeah I know, but engineering doesent cover the serpentine setup and making it reliable
@@nordic5490
HuH 🤔? What are you babbling on about? Talk’n about a better more reliable serpentine belt setup. Not drag car & race car engine mods that effects the roadworthiness. Use ya brain 🧠 Derrrrrrrrr
Hey mate, the tensioner wheel was plastic, I imagine it just let go after a bearing failure. I put a metal one back in so fingers crossed its sorted!
Those spud shafts are used to change pto shaft sizes and not seen as a good thing and pto is 1000 rpm max, but your main problem is the adapter plate which has not been made correctly, bolt's aren't used to align a case, nice work by you machinest though
Hogno saves the day
He's a clever dude been mates with him for very long time
Yes he is!
Fantastic job on adaptor alignment however I think you also have a spline lubrication problem.
They are dry shafts from factory so there is no need! We used grease when we put it in.
Would this be the same issue with the planet parts gu patrol to Barra kit
Shouldn't be as they don't use a spud shaft!
Why didn't you use a patrol transfer? I'm sure you cover this but I can't remember.
The 79 transfer is significantly shorter than the patrol transfer which allows a longer tailshaft and better uni angles
Or just buy a Patrol.
@@bronsonmercieca2120wonder how it compares as the cruiser one which is off set to the patrol diff input, vs patrol transfer to patrol diff at a bit shorter but straighter?
@@hynes84 Hey mate, I went through this in a previous video, its 10 degrees side to side and up and down with a 79 to patrol transfer or it was 19 degree up and down but centred.
@@DesignedandBuiltyeah cheers for the reply, had never though of the length difference before now between the two. I guess they must have a sharp angle range on a short wheel base GQ which I guess gets helped by a double garden joint on some rigs.
How hot does the fluid get with the turbo right there. I get fade had to move to bottom mount turbo.
Hey James, are you talking coolant and oil? No dramas yet. Same core 50K in!
@@DesignedandBuilt Heat from turbo on brake fluid. master cylinder. Turbo very close . In my short GQ had to move to bottom mount turbo. brake fade fluid got too hot in hot hard driving conditions
@@DesignedandBuilt No brake fluid. I had to move to bottom mount turbo. on my gq barra
@@jamestanner9198 Ahh yep, no real dramas with it, I am thinking about making a heat shield though!
@@DesignedandBuilt Talking brake fluid with your top mount
I have an NA barra in a custom Extra cab long wheelbase on airbags gu patrol. Had heaps of problems with the g box adapter. After countless times removing box l found the adapter was out on one dowel pin by 1.8mm. Very frustrating. Also had the same problem you have with the serpentine built. My high mount Alternator bracket (mine) was a bees dick out, came off at revs smashing the water pump and jamming in the crank pulley.
Would not have a new 4x4. Love working on it and making it mine
Thanks Rick, same with me! All part of the fun!
the design of that adapter isn't optimal. i run similar kinds of adapters in jeeps and the adapters i use run two large bearings on the spud shaft and are actually shorter than the adapter you have there. the adapter is designed to be lubricated using the gearbox oil in my application. if you want to see an example of what i'm talking about take a look at "novak th400 to d20 adapter" or the one i use which is "novak ax15 to d20 adapter"
something to look at if you continue having issues or as improvement to future adapters if he is serious about building better adapters.
Hey Mate, spud shafts exist in a number of applications without the bearings you're describing and do not fail. There is no need for oil on the 79 end, it is a dry shaft and comes from factory like that. There is no reason it should fail if it is manufactured correctly and is in line!
@@DesignedandBuilt you need oil if you use an adapter with bearings for better alignment and support of the shaft.
most t-cases are sealed now to separate oil in the gearbox and t-case. one of the drawbacks of that is the dry splines. you should at least grease them to get them to last longer.
spud shaft adapters are the cheapest way to make an adapter not the best way.
Chuck a TD in it 👌🏼
You mean pay more for less power, reliability, drivability and torque? 😅
@ you’re right. The barra looks pretty reliable
@@nickunw Still no tow trucks or ruined trips 🤣
Can you tell us where the dodgy one was from, so we know to avoid the issue ?
Hey mate, I don't want a lawsuit on my hands, have a look through my old videos 😅
Couldn't you have added some hollow dowel pins, and counterbore the threads a few mm's to accept them?? You can never count on bolts to hold alignment, they only hold things together. Grease those splines!! I always use thick moly paste on my splines, it doesn't wear off, completely waterproof, you'll never see any rust or shiney wear either.
Too much power! 🦘🤷♂️😳🙈
I have a 04 Kia Sorrento with a engine that lacks power, tried to get replacement engine but no body will help me. I asked some that do conversion ( Cummins were advertising their 2.8 d as a good choice) still nobody would help. Is there somebody out in UA-cam world that can keep my car 4x4 and put an engine in that you can actually get parts for? Someone down in Hobart do LS conversion but I lose 4x4 and who wants such a big engine for a possible daily driver.
We all know who makes that shaft.
It's not a matter of if it's a matter of when.
Why is the old shaft rusty?🙄
It's not rusty. This is fretting corrosion. Google Nissan patrol 5th gear failure pics. All splines have this rust colour. (iron particles)
Hey Jim, I think its reminisce of the red grease I had on it!
@@DesignedandBuilt Well if it isn't, could be part of the problem
@@DesignedandBuilt Fretting wear causes the rust looking iron particles.
Looks like it needs lube? Dry and rusty?
It was red grease!
Less right foot, it will last twice longer
haha wheres the fun in that!
Yeah lets install a ford to make sure it breaks 🤔
Funnily enough its the toyota end that keeps breaking ☹️
The transmission and adapter isn't Ford
No doubt it's had an AC/PS pump delete and has a modified belt set-up😢
Barra are so good
They are awesome mate! Maybe If they made a little less power then I wouldn’t have this problem 🤣 apart from that though the Barra isn’t at fault at all, the gearbox output is still mint, better than the 79 input!
Would’ve been better with a 1hd-fte grouse engines mate. Barra’s good too, just say’n.
Hey mate, I love that engine but it would have been 5X the price atleast!
Just shit gear, thats all thats available nowdays
It makes ya wonder just how dumb those Toyota fellows are, not to use shitty old technology from Ford.
It’s actually the Toyota end that’s failing 😭
nobody in the free world knows WTF a kms is. it could mean anything
Do you want me to convert the channel to miles/inches 🤣?
@@DesignedandBuilt Only if you want us to know what you're talking about
@@dirttdude google translate is your friend.
@@Mercmad it might be the friend of people that can tolerate a dumbed down math system but i'm just not interested
another backyarder think he know better then toyota engneers one 6 cylinder toyota motor replace with another 6 cylinder motor '''' what''' why ? do you like problem what have you gain
Why on earth would I want a 6 cylinder Toyota motor over the mighty Barra?
yuck
designed and built .....not reliable 4wd in any way why would u even build something like that in the first place .....waiste of time and money .....toyota engines into Toyotas for a reason in the first place......i will stick to my poverty pack 80 series 1HZ n/a keeps on going and going a reliable touring 4wd simple is better in many ways my 2 cents worth
Yeh keeping everything standard would make for amazing viewing on UA-cam
I think you're missing the point of his channel...he designs and builds unique things...
Maybe he likes to do the speed limit up hills
If the company who supplied the transfer conversion built it correctly there wouldn’t be a problem many people have had the same problems
Why are you here?
I'm a mechanical engineer as well, and unfortunately, I seriously doubt that fixing the alignment issue alone, will stop the spline fretting wear. Nissan GU patrol gearboxes (5th gears) failed after 50 to70,000 kms with this exact same fault, and the cause was a loose fit spline that allows fretting wear. Fretting wear causes the spline to look rusty with lots of iron particles. Heaps of patrol gearboxes failed, until Nissan released a new design main shaft with much tighter tolerances that was an interference fit. You can google it. Heaps of pics of the failures of the spline are on the internet. The spline needs to have no play at all. Alternatively, you can try adding loctite 680 to the spline as well, to prevent the spline rattling. I know first hand, because I rebuilt my GU gearbox with the new parts released by Nissan. The 5th gear was slightly loose on the main shaft originally. The new main-shaft and 5th gear spline was longer engagement and an interference fit. Loctite 680 is your best friend here. Lock that spline up SOLID.
I strongly recommend you re-assemble the spud shaft with liberal loctite 680 on the spline. That will help.
It could well be a tolerancing issue. I've almost done 5K on it so I'll pull it out and have a look!
@@DesignedandBuilt Yes and definitely add loctite 680 to the spline when you re-assemble. Ebay still has repair kits for Patrol 5th gear failures for sale FYI. (Just same failure mode of the spline)
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