Replacing the handbrake pads on the Jaguar XJ-S. These were new last August, but one pair disintegrated after only 700 miles and needed to be replaced again.
Very authentic not trying to hide the tough parts of the repairs. An approach can otherwise be to let the lifespan of the handbrake pads determine the intervals between having the complete IRS out of the car. So that every time it's out the handbrake pads is a mandatory renewal. If interval is too lomg those radius arms can stick so hard on the mounts that they need cutting into pieces to remove.Another time lapse approach is then to repeatedly apply penetrating oil, heat the part, wait, and play favorite music until the part moves.
They were and are such beautiful cars !!! . Both the XJS and Saloon were well known for the calipers ... (inboard)... being very difficult to get at ?? . I worked for a Rover / Jaguar dealership in the late 80's and the one mechanic told me to see ....... "Those XJS's go over the speed ramps - The cars dont move - Best suspension in the world" ... They were such beautiful cars !!!............. as brilliant as the saloon !!! . Thanks for reading. . (make sure the discs are scuffed with 40-grit paper ... and also the pad housings ...... and the pins, pads, bolts have "copper slip" on them -thanks)
Thanks for the video Jamie, boy that engine is quiet. I really enjoy the full experience of rolling around under a car, in the cold, with muscle cramps, bashed knuckles and numb fingertips without the effort of actually rolling around under a car, in the cold, with muscle cramps, bashed knuckles and numb fingertips. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for another, very helpful video! 👍🏻 Now I am assured it will be absolutely the right thing to completely remove the IRS when changing the pads and rotors on my 89 XJ-S. This will be one of my tasks within the coming weekends when preparing the car for the upcoming season.
I didn't show it in this video but to remove the whole IRS I strongly recommend you buy a sheet of steel at least 3mm thick but not more than 6mm thick. Remove all nuts and bolts holding the bottom of the cage to the IRS and remove it. Use it to mark and match drill holes in your new steel - the four corners are sufficient. Find the centre of the 4 corners where the diagonals of the corner holes line up, and drill a hole in the centre. The centre hole should be a good diameter to bolt through a trolley jack with the cup removed. Trim the steel down to just big enough. You may need to cut notches to allow the lower arms to fully droop, or you will not be able to get the discs/rotors out. You can use the corner bolts to bolt this new steel plate to the cage in place of the original, and bolt it to your trolley jack through its centre of gravity. This will prevent the IRS from falling off the jack, and if you are careful you can even wheel it around on the jack. You can pivot the jack under the IRS to pull the IRS out sideways through the wheel arch which greatly reduces the height you would require the car at to pull it out backwards under the floor of the boot/trunk. Good luck :D
@@jamieduff1981 Best I saw is to place a motorcycle jack under the support plate of the IRS thast just about matches its width and after releasing from mounts lower the entire assembly for easy work. This video shows how: ua-cam.com/video/5KzpnWpJvpo/v-deo.html
Hi Jamie - kudos for doing this - I feel your pain. My XJS's IRS is currently off the car and I'm rebuilding the handbrake assemblies now. Would you mind sharing which parts failed on you? I've bought part number JLM9518* from a company that rhymes with Gravid Spanners. They're Powertune branded and were a bargainous £14.54. If these are the same ones as failed for you I'll do as you've done and get the correct OEM parts to save me having to do the job twice. BTW, damaging the pads by overtightening their nuts is complete rubbish! Can't believe they said that.
Full marks for tackling this job! I’ll give most things a go but I must admit the rear brakes on mine are something I immediately filed in the ‘get a garage to do it’ box. This is a useful video if I get brave though!
It's much easier with the whole IRS out. I didn't show the plate I made to do the whole lot last year but I'll do that soon. It's all standard nuts and bolts stuff - it's just access to the calipers that's hard but it's sooo much easier with the car out of the way. Dropping the IRS quick and easy. Almost as if that was what someone planned all along!
There's a right way and a wrong way to do lots of stuff, and cutting the body shell on a classic car when there's a method which doesn't involve damage available is always the wrong way!
Hi Jamie, I have a 1994 xjs, the radio has no power. I have checked the fuse under the knee bolster. Do you know if there is another fuse somewhere for the radio. Both the cd and antenna have no power also. Any idea. Thanks, howard
Hi, your 1994 is wired differently to my 1989 but the Repair Operations Manual for 1990 onwards lists (for RHD car) RH Side Rearward Fuse 2 10A for Radio Aerial, RH Side Steering Fuse 6 5A for Radio Memory and Fuse 7 10A for Radio Power. If your car is LHD it lists the same Fuse numbers for the latter two but on the LH side i.e. radio fuses under the steering wheel still.
@@jamieduff1981 thanks however I checked both 10 and 5 Amp fuses, both are good. The fuse for power antenna also good. Do you know if there might be another for the radio somewhere else. Also the abs light is on so that will be another issue to get resolved. Do you know of any instructions to pull the radio out. That is my last resort
Not true about phone , I believe law make no differentiation if you are in control of car at any time you can get points , did in a car park . I think its bollocks but be careful
Very authentic not trying to hide the tough parts of the repairs. An approach can otherwise be to let the lifespan of the handbrake pads determine the intervals between having the complete IRS out of the car. So that every time it's out the handbrake pads is a mandatory renewal. If interval is too lomg those radius arms can stick so hard on the mounts that they need cutting into pieces to remove.Another time lapse approach is then to repeatedly apply penetrating oil, heat the part, wait, and play favorite music until the part moves.
Very helpful. I was about to order the cheap hand brake pads.
Well done. You certainly opened my eyes as to the complexity of the job at hand. KUTGW! Look forward to further videos.
They were and are such beautiful cars !!!
.
Both the XJS and Saloon were well known for the calipers ... (inboard)... being very difficult to get at ??
.
I worked for a Rover / Jaguar dealership in the late 80's and the one mechanic told me to see .......
"Those XJS's go over the speed ramps - The cars dont move - Best suspension in the world"
...
They were such beautiful cars !!!............. as brilliant as the saloon !!!
.
Thanks for reading.
.
(make sure the discs are scuffed with 40-grit paper ... and also the pad housings ...... and the pins, pads, bolts have "copper slip" on them -thanks)
Thanks for the video Jamie, boy that engine is quiet. I really enjoy the full experience of rolling around under a car, in the cold, with muscle cramps, bashed knuckles and numb fingertips without the effort of actually rolling around under a car, in the cold, with muscle cramps, bashed knuckles and numb fingertips. Keep up the good work.
You can vicariously enjoy the scrubbing with abrasive soaps etc afterwards too :D Thanks for watching!
Excellent video as i have a hand brake problem as well. Cable does not return as easy as it used to do. Now i know where to look!
Thank you for another, very helpful video! 👍🏻
Now I am assured it will be absolutely the right thing to completely remove the IRS when changing the pads and rotors on my 89 XJ-S. This will be one of my tasks within the coming weekends when preparing the car for the upcoming season.
I didn't show it in this video but to remove the whole IRS I strongly recommend you buy a sheet of steel at least 3mm thick but not more than 6mm thick. Remove all nuts and bolts holding the bottom of the cage to the IRS and remove it. Use it to mark and match drill holes in your new steel - the four corners are sufficient. Find the centre of the 4 corners where the diagonals of the corner holes line up, and drill a hole in the centre. The centre hole should be a good diameter to bolt through a trolley jack with the cup removed. Trim the steel down to just big enough. You may need to cut notches to allow the lower arms to fully droop, or you will not be able to get the discs/rotors out. You can use the corner bolts to bolt this new steel plate to the cage in place of the original, and bolt it to your trolley jack through its centre of gravity. This will prevent the IRS from falling off the jack, and if you are careful you can even wheel it around on the jack. You can pivot the jack under the IRS to pull the IRS out sideways through the wheel arch which greatly reduces the height you would require the car at to pull it out backwards under the floor of the boot/trunk.
Good luck :D
@@jamieduff1981 Best I saw is to place a motorcycle jack under the support plate of the IRS thast just about matches its width
and after releasing from mounts lower the entire assembly for easy work. This video shows how: ua-cam.com/video/5KzpnWpJvpo/v-deo.html
Hi Jamie - kudos for doing this - I feel your pain. My XJS's IRS is currently off the car and I'm rebuilding the handbrake assemblies now.
Would you mind sharing which parts failed on you?
I've bought part number JLM9518* from a company that rhymes with Gravid Spanners. They're Powertune branded and were a bargainous £14.54.
If these are the same ones as failed for you I'll do as you've done and get the correct OEM parts to save me having to do the job twice.
BTW, damaging the pads by overtightening their nuts is complete rubbish! Can't believe they said that.
Full marks for tackling this job! I’ll give most things a go but I must admit the rear brakes on mine are something I immediately filed in the ‘get a garage to do it’ box. This is a useful video if I get brave though!
It's much easier with the whole IRS out. I didn't show the plate I made to do the whole lot last year but I'll do that soon. It's all standard nuts and bolts stuff - it's just access to the calipers that's hard but it's sooo much easier with the car out of the way. Dropping the IRS quick and easy. Almost as if that was what someone planned all along!
Great video. I'm about to do this job on my 77 XJ-S, but I also have to change the calipers and discs. Can they be removed without dropping the IRS?
Cut holes in floor to get to pads
There's a right way and a wrong way to do lots of stuff, and cutting the body shell on a classic car when there's a method which doesn't involve damage available is always the wrong way!
Hi Jamie, I have a 1994 xjs, the radio has no power. I have checked the fuse under the knee bolster. Do you know if there is another fuse somewhere for the radio. Both the cd and antenna have no power also. Any idea. Thanks, howard
Hi, your 1994 is wired differently to my 1989 but the Repair Operations Manual for 1990 onwards lists (for RHD car) RH Side Rearward Fuse 2 10A for Radio Aerial, RH Side Steering Fuse 6 5A for Radio Memory and Fuse 7 10A for Radio Power. If your car is LHD it lists the same Fuse numbers for the latter two but on the LH side i.e. radio fuses under the steering wheel still.
@@jamieduff1981 thanks however I checked both 10 and 5 Amp fuses, both are good. The fuse for power antenna also good. Do you know if there might be another for the radio somewhere else. Also the abs light is on so that will be another issue to get resolved. Do you know of any instructions to pull the radio out. That is my last resort
Not true about phone , I believe law make no differentiation if you are in control of car at any time you can get points , did in a car park . I think its bollocks but be careful
(My) private property and public access is the big difference. A car park is definitely public access so the road going law applies there. :)