hey, i lost my dad this year... he never had time to teach me this stuf, taught me alot..but we didn't have time for some bits. Thank you for the video mate
Just did mine. One change I would recommend, slip the brake cable over the new caliper hook first, then pull the cable to slide into the bracket. A lot easier. Thanks for the video!
Thanks a lot. Replacing a siezed caliper tomorrow and needed some clear instructions, especially on how to do the one-man brake bleed. Awesome video, straight to the point
Liked that, specially elevating the bleed bottle. Have bled brakes for years by just cracking the bleed screw and pushing the fluid out but your method is much better. Muchos Grathias mon Ami,
Straight to the job. This video is great. No talking about the random dog walking in video. Or the other video you made on changing the alternator. Just to the point!!!!
Thanks, I was doing the one person method but never got good results but that’s because I kept the bottle lower than caliper and hose not inside the fluid in the bottle
I noticed that the bleeder valve was on the bottom of the caliper when you removed it from the car, then I noticed that the new caliper bleed valve was at the top of the caliper, that is the correct way the caliper should be on the rotor. I guess you noticed that too. we live and learn. good job anyhow.
wow! i'm speechless! master, yeah, im going to call you Master. perfect explained. i have to do this job tomorrow. wish me good luck. thank you Master.
Remove and re install all new calipers if possible put a small of amount of fluid in the actual caliper then bolt everything down then take the big bottle of break fluid dump it upside down in your master cylinder make sure u have a catch pan by the master cylinder and under all four calipers keep all the bleeders open till all the calipers are pissing clean fluid at a steady steam close them all off pump them up check them on an incline like a driveway if possible if they don’t go flat and hold tight ur good if the pedal does t feel good traditional bleed but I’ve never had to my original all at once method works great on flat rate
Great video! I did my brakes without gloves at first also. Do you recommend adding Grease to the slider pins of a new caliper? Mine only seemed to have a thin layer of Grease.
Thanks Garin ! Personally , i always put a little extra grease on ; and then squeeze the air out of the boot. I find they aren't shipped with enough slider lube
The design intent is to separate the caliper from the bracket. Mount the bracket, then the pads, then install the caliper. It's actually much easier to do if you do it that way.
so the reason it took so long to get fluid going thru the line is the caliper was empty even tho you prime it you did crack the bleeder valve to allow it to fill.
@8:23 Did you apply any Threadlocker on those mounting bolts? I put a Blue Thread Locker on that job like a 1.5 years ago, everything was good, no problems w/breaks. I see in many film people use Blue TL on those attaching Brake Bracket-to- Knuckle bolts. But now I did smth else on suspension and needed to remove the Brake Bracket again. When I looked to double check the torque and everything in Shop Manual for our 2001 Saturn SL2 (I have one), they say there to apply Heat 272 Loctite or equivalent. And if you don't have that Red Loctite, you need to replace the attaching bolts. Of course it is advice for a shop w/unlimited access for the bolts of that type and everything, and they are very precise (supposed to be of course). But why everyone applied Blue, as Shop Manual says Red? That what puzzled me. This is full Saturn Shop Manual 2000-2001 S-series, very detailed, 3 huge volumes (4-5 different books inside of each volume, put together w/binder), thin strong paper like papyrus. I'm confused on all that. If I apply Red, will I be able to brake those nuts w/huge breaker bar, or heat would be needed? it is not a problem to apply heat of course, but there are CV Axle Boots there close by, I even don't know. And again, everyone applies Blue: Mech the nic, Chris Fix, many others. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
I have a question if I may. I had the replace one of the calipers on my truck and now it won’t move in and out as it’s supposed to. Do you have any idea of what might be the problem?
My problem is back passenger side bolts are sticking, I greased them up, but now Sticking again after a month. Also ebrake has to be pulled all the way up. I'm ordering another back caliper and gonna replace it now. is t the ebrake cable also on the back passenger side of a 2010 Kia forte coupe?
@@kingwendell7445 Bought a new caliper from O'Reilly and the seat for the brake line was damaged. Pressing on the pedal cause brake fluid to aerosol everywhere. AAAACK
The pads keep retracting after we let off the pedal. I believe these new calipers could be bad.... Or there's still a lot of air in the brake system....
The manufacturer instructions states that the copper anti seize is fine for metal on metal applications. Do not use anywhere near or in contact with rubber. Use the pure silicone paste for metal on or near rubber applications.
@@manueldriggs7099 Well if its used on brake pad/caliper with anti seize it will end up on the rubber piston boot. This comment was 10month ago, i end up taking my brake apart and cleaned the anti seize off and applied silicone paste instead for peace of mind.
How about removing old caliper bracket and sit it aside then put new caliper on and then swap hose over? Less fluid loss, mess and less possibility of running master or ABS pump dry while changing over. There is a better way!!
it's like youtube from 2007 straight to the point clear instructions and no off topic discussions well done man, gona do mine this summer
Thanks 3abd - glad it helped !
hey, i lost my dad this year... he never had time to teach me this stuf, taught me alot..but we didn't have time for some bits. Thank you for the video mate
Just did mine. One change I would recommend, slip the brake cable over the new caliper hook first, then pull the cable to slide into the bracket. A lot easier. Thanks for the video!
I'll second that Bro. Just what I thought. Onwards & Upwards.
Yep. You are correct. Here is the proper tool to release the Parking Brake Cable: amzn.to/3SZw2Lw
Thanks a lot. Replacing a siezed caliper tomorrow and needed some clear instructions, especially on how to do the one-man brake bleed. Awesome video, straight to the point
Liked that, specially elevating the bleed bottle. Have bled brakes for years by just cracking the bleed screw and pushing the fluid out but your method is much better. Muchos Grathias mon Ami,
Straight to the job. This video is great. No talking about the random dog walking in video. Or the other video you made on changing the alternator. Just to the point!!!!
this is the only video on youtube that did every point we needed to see , and it all worked perfectly thanks this was a life saver
Thanks, I was doing the one person method but never got good results but that’s because I kept the bottle lower than caliper and hose not inside the fluid in the bottle
I noticed that the bleeder valve was on the bottom of the caliper when you removed it from the car, then I noticed that the new caliper bleed valve was at the top of the caliper, that is the correct way the caliper should be on the rotor. I guess you noticed that too. we live and learn. good job anyhow.
Great Video - I have done many front brake calipers; but, no rear and this was perfect to get started - Thanks.
That darn ebrake and the spring.
Seems to have done the job. You taught me something with that one man brake bleed. Good job!
wow! i'm speechless! master, yeah, im going to call you Master. perfect explained. i have to do this job tomorrow. wish me good luck. thank you Master.
Thanks Fernando - take your time and good luck with the job !
Master-Cylinder.
Great Video. Actually showed the caliper and how it works and explained well.
Easier to understand your problem if you know some things
Thank you! I'm new to fixing my cars and this just told me more then most people again thank you!
Remove and re install all new calipers if possible put a small of amount of fluid in the actual caliper then bolt everything down then take the big bottle of break fluid dump it upside down in your master cylinder make sure u have a catch pan by the master cylinder and under all four calipers keep all the bleeders open till all the calipers are pissing clean fluid at a steady steam close them all off pump them up check them on an incline like a driveway if possible if they don’t go flat and hold tight ur good if the pedal does t feel good traditional bleed but I’ve never had to my original all at once method works great on flat rate
Great video! I did my brakes without gloves at first also. Do you recommend adding Grease to the slider pins of a new caliper? Mine only seemed to have a thin layer of Grease.
Thanks Garin ! Personally , i always put a little extra grease on ; and then squeeze the air out of the boot. I find they aren't shipped with enough slider lube
@@backyardmech Thanks for the info!!
The design intent is to separate the caliper from the bracket. Mount the bracket, then the pads, then install the caliper. It's actually much easier to do if you do it that way.
Thanks for a clear and concise video.
so the reason it took so long to get fluid going thru the line is the caliper was empty even tho you prime it you did crack the bleeder valve to allow it to fill.
I just did mine thanks for the video it helped a lot
thank you so much for this video i successfully changed over my first caliper today your awsome bro thank you
Very clear job thanks. Even with your half Irish accent :)
Man, sometimes these can be a pain. I'll do it on Friday
Great job ! 👍
Just learned something new lol ,thanks for that.
Great video. Told me exactly what I needed to know. Thank you
Thankyou very much sir, very well explained.👍💯 ☘️☘️☘️🇮🇪☘️
Thanks for the details.......
Excellent stuff, subbed.
I think you need to squeeze the TABS...not where you have the vise grips. Squeeze on the other side of the bracket and push it out.
Great video sir well done job 🤝
Very informative video nice camera work as well
Great video, thanks 🙏
Thank you for your time ⏲️⏳
Awesome welll explained video thank you mate
Glad you liked it Jesse !
@8:23 Did you apply any Threadlocker on those mounting bolts? I put a Blue Thread Locker on that job like a 1.5 years ago, everything was good, no problems w/breaks. I see in many film people use Blue TL on those attaching Brake Bracket-to- Knuckle bolts. But now I did smth else on suspension and needed to remove the Brake Bracket again. When I looked to double check the torque and everything in Shop Manual for our 2001 Saturn SL2 (I have one), they say there to apply Heat 272 Loctite or equivalent. And if you don't have that Red Loctite, you need to replace the attaching bolts. Of course it is advice for a shop w/unlimited access for the bolts of that type and everything, and they are very precise (supposed to be of course). But why everyone applied Blue, as Shop Manual says Red? That what puzzled me. This is full Saturn Shop Manual 2000-2001 S-series, very detailed, 3 huge volumes (4-5 different books inside of each volume, put together w/binder), thin strong paper like papyrus. I'm confused on all that. If I apply Red, will I be able to brake those nuts w/huge breaker bar, or heat would be needed? it is not a problem to apply heat of course, but there are CV Axle Boots there close by, I even don't know. And again, everyone applies Blue: Mech the nic, Chris Fix, many others. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
great video man
I have a question if I may.
I had the replace one of the calipers on my truck and now it won’t move in and out as it’s supposed to.
Do you have any idea of what might be the problem?
??? Should I replace both rear calipers our just one..
My problem is back passenger side bolts are sticking, I greased them up, but now Sticking again after a month. Also ebrake has to be pulled all the way up. I'm ordering another back caliper and gonna replace it now. is t the ebrake cable also on the back passenger side of a 2010 Kia forte coupe?
Love the Tim Horton cup
i find it easier to hook my e-break cable first to the hook.
Such a pain in the ass when you have brake fluid on your gloves!
@@rbell7666 lol that's a fact
@@kingwendell7445 Bought a new caliper from O'Reilly and the seat for the brake line was damaged. Pressing on the pedal cause brake fluid to aerosol everywhere. AAAACK
great video 10/10
what a great video thank you
Is it the same for a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu
Just replaced my caliper on f250 I have been bleeding for over 30 minutes it’s still soft 😢
Thankyou much appreciated it !
Nice video!
The pads keep retracting after we let off the pedal. I believe these new calipers could be bad.... Or there's still a lot of air in the brake system....
You may have a caliper where you need to adjust the parking brake first, before bleeding.
Thank you!
Nice video
I need this design cailper for my honda what the name
Did you change it out?
Hands getting really tingly and burning a bit at 9:00
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
The manufacturer instructions states that the copper anti seize is fine for metal on metal applications. Do not use anywhere near or in contact with rubber. Use the pure silicone paste for metal on or near rubber applications.
@@manueldriggs7099 Well if its used on brake pad/caliper with anti seize it will end up on the rubber piston boot. This comment was 10month ago, i end up taking my brake apart and cleaned the anti seize off and applied silicone paste instead for peace of mind.
What is this unit.model?thx
Question for anyone if after bleeding brakes what would be the reason that the brake fluid drain while driving the next day
It like ran out of the back tires while my man was driving on the Freeway
What vehicle was this in
Are brake calipers covered under extended warranty
Watch bleeding brakes towards vide
How about removing old caliper bracket and sit it aside then put new caliper on and then swap hose over? Less fluid loss, mess and less possibility of running master or ABS pump dry while changing over.
There is a better way!!
What if one of your caliper pins are frozen? Just change out the whole unit.
West coast Canadian accent? Maybe Alberta
East Coast, but those guys move all over the country so you'd hear some in Alberta too
@@chikkenvoicesinmyhed hmm maybe , Def not newfie though
Lol you're just like my father. You should wear gloves this shhh will eat through your hand but f it.....😂
Newer cars are Mickey Mouse Junk!