Will Our FREE Abandoned Airplane Finally Start? Ep4
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 січ 2022
- Today on Rebuild Rescue we get done a lot of work to be able to finally get this engine started! After a long night of completely taking apart and cleaning the fuel system, we finally get fuel running into the engine.
Once we are able to get the fuel injectors and lines reinstalled, we roll the Cessna 401 outside to see if the work completed so far will be enough to get this engine to finally turn over after over 15 years!
Rebuild Rescue Videos:
FREE Abandoned Airplane... If I Can Start It! Ep1
• FREE Abandoned Airplan...
Taking Our FREE Abandoned Airplane Home! Ep2
• Taking Our FREE Abando...
He's Trying To STEAL Our FREE Abandoned Airplane ! Ep3
• He's Trying To STEAL O...
Is The FREE Abandoned Airplane Finally Ours ?! Ep5
• Is The FREE Abandoned ...
Did We Ruin The FREE Abandoned Airplane Engine ? Ep6
• Did We Ruin The FREE A...
Our FREE Abandoned Airplane Gets Its First Wash In 17 Years ! Ep7
• Our FREE Abandoned Air...
Will Engine #2 Ever Run Again On Our FREE Abandoned Airplane !? Ep8
• Will Engine #2 Ever Ru...
Grab yourself some Rebuild Rescue Merch!
rebuild-rescue.myshopify.com
CHECK OUT THIS LINK..... its free...
/ @rebuildrescue
Contact info
Sales@rebuildrescue.com
Jason@rebuildrescue.com
#FreePlane #AbandonedPlane #RebuildRescue - Авто та транспорт
watching someone be so passionate about something takes the video to a whole other level. incredible work!!
Actual youtube commenting on your video. Man what a small world!
I guess that isn't very common. He should pinn that comment.
Wow, UA-cam is here giving this man praise! And well deserved praise at that 😍
UA-cam sponsor this man 😄
:D you know its the real shit when youtube comments on your video
The starter seems sluggish turning the engine over. You should check all electrical connections from the batteries to the starter. Use proper connectors rather then jump leads. If that fails, parallel another set of batteries so you have a higher starting current available. Can't wait to see this thing fire up
100%
This. You should test the battery output is sufficent.
agreed
I was thinking the same thing… starter is definitely sluggish. With all the bird stuff that was in the engine compartment I’d definitely be checking connections and grounds and cleaning them the best I could.
Try again with a external power unit. At this turn-over speed it will be more like a hit or miss game. Seems like you have good voltage but not enough amps.
I haven't found a comment saying it, so I will. Im an A&P and work on several aircraft like this model. Those mags have two leads going into them. One is the "P" lead and the other is for the retard breaker points. This aircraft uses a starting vibrator, or shower of sparks unit to start the engines. You need to find that unit and check the condition of the points inside of it. They tend to go to shit when the aircraft sits. Most of the time this is located in the nose baggage bay. Good luck
I actually explained that to him in a comment two episodes ago, not sure if he reads all comments,
There's other ways of ck it and you do ck alot other things too leads plugs and retard points and coil
Pull the starter main cable of starter inoperable now. Starter now. pull sparks plugs now you can hit the starter button with mags on
And bring it up on each cylinder tdc and ck for spark with moving prop by hand
You screw a plug wire back in the plug and your cking that lead and plug and coil in mag
My description not to good but I thing you should understand stand if it's working it will spark like hell
You can pull off mag point cover to watch retard points but during the test you have have it on
When he pulled the cover on the mag before he could have screw up the
p leads too
Im an A&P as well and I just came to the comments to write this same thing. That’s the first thing i would check in this situation
@@esandave I totally agree
I don't have any idea what you're talking about and a starting vibrator sounds odd but I've only ever tinkered/ "worked on" small engines and pre-2010 cars. You sound like you know what you're talking about so I'm gonna like the comment and continue on. Lol
Oh man.. All that suspense! My heart rate was elevated watching the propeller spin. I kept thinking "any second now, it will fire up!"
try to chek compression rate at all cylinders
I think it was trying to start. But the longer it didn't, then you know the battery is not going to deliver what is needed. And finally, as others have said, there is a definite procedure to start one these. IMO, if this were an active engine that was in running condition, he probably could have gotten away with not going by the book. But sitting as long as this has, nope. I think a manual procedure would help. Just wondering,- why didn't he ask a pilot for advice. He's at a hanger with plenty of folks around. Even if it was what not to do......
Hey 8 bit guy! I love your vids too!
E
Hi
Your supposed to use a basket for your ultrasonic cleaner. They hang from the top so the thing being cleaned sits still while the cleaning fluid is vibrated.
That difference is what causes the cleaning action as it causes the bubbles to form around the object you want cleaned.
If you just drop things in, then they are also vibrated at the same frequency as the liquid and the cleaning action will be reduced.
It can still clean because a solid object will still vibrate more slowly than the surrounding liquid.
The point is you want the maximum effect, so use the basket that came with the cleaner.
It does have compression, I can see that from the RPM difference. I also saw a few points in the turning-over that looked like it tried to start. What I think is going on is insufficient turn-over force from the batteries. The jumper cables can't send it enough current to start it the way it wants to start. Mags need the RPM to make enough spark, just like a lawn mower. Recommend: Solid cable ends rather than alligator ends will provide 10x the current.
I totally agree. There isn't enough turnover speed to get things going. What about excess resistance in the starter motor? Old starters develop resistance. I think getting the batteries solidly connected with as short of cable length as possible is a good starting point. Then, have the starter checked. That should turn over faster.
exactly!!!
My thought exactly. Without the plugs the RPM is a whole lot better.
Something is dodgy inside and not doing what it should.
Came here to say just this. Engine isn’t turning over fast enough to start.
Hi, I agree you should look at the starter motor :) I don't know exactly how the starter looks like in such an engine, but I encountered silimar problems with cars when even 1 of the brushes in the starter motor was bad (it can get stuck), then it can crank has much less power=lower cranking speed... maybe you should diagnose/swap a starter motor? Of course is only my humble suggestion :D or maybe too much friction somewhere...idk... wish you it will start soon! Good luck with this project!
NEVER try to turn the turbo from the intake nut, you can snap the shaft. Always turn from the Turbine side.
I have become extremely invested in this series. I know next to nothing about planes but it's still been fascinating to watch you pour your heart in soul into this machine. I hope to the all mighty you get that thing in the air one day
its like watching a cool car restoration
I've said it before but the impulse couplers aren't clicking on the mags.. which helps for starting because you turning over way to slow. Also I've replaced a turbo on one of these and you don't have to remove it to start and oil pressure will probably be fine. It's not turning it fast enough until it's running to get full oil pressure
I totally agree with you most of these motors spin over quite slow. If the impulse coupler is not kicking over it won’t fire
Bang on about those impulse couplings, I noticed that in one of the last videos. If he gets it started, have a happy dance for a minute, kill the mixture and then kill the party. Then it's time to spend spend spend. New mags, most probably at least one or two new cylinders. I don't even think the oil filters have been touched or the oil for that matter. It's fun to watch but I can't help cringing
@@seantoomey1514 I'm kinda going off the last video where we saw the spark...it looked very weak but idk
@@Yodavich oh yeah...the amount of money to get it "airworthy" 😳 to get it back in annual 😳
@@seantoomey1514 I'm almost sure it is shower of sparks as you can see the extra lead going to the retard breaker in the magnetos.
We work on a lot of heavy equipment and the size of your jumper cable wire makes a huge difference. We build ours from welding cable. At minimum pick up a set of the most expensive cables that Napa offers. Don't forget to have a more beefy cable that bridges your 12 volt batteries. If you want to confirm that you cables are too small then attach your meter to the cable at the starter and watch the voltage drop when you engage the starter. Thanks for the great content. You make us feel like part of the project.
As someone who runs solar and has started semis from my 3/4 ton truck the cables are the KEY, no matter how big the battery is, if the cables are not big enough will not transfer the current to the starter 2/0 at least to get it started put some real cooper ends and attach to actual nuts on batteries..We are ALL rooting for you can't wait for next episode!
And remember that you double the area of the cable if you double the amount of cables in parallel, so borrow all the cables you can from all friends and relatives of you don't want to invest now.
I think you are on to something. I have never worked on heavy equipment but I spent 10 years providing roadside service while working out of a passenger vehicle with a 4 cylinder engine. I jump started thousands of vehicles, including dual battery Diesel truck, from those engines. Based on my experience, the first thing I thought when that prop started spinning was that it was spinning too slow. Plenty of times I have had an engine turning over so fast it was practically idling (I am exaggerating, but you get the idea) and it still needed more power before it would start. The prop really looked like it needed a little more speed to get going.
@@nathans5773 my thoughts as well, it just seemed the turn to slowly, power is the key, the second time it started to look as though the engine had started to help but just not quite enough.
Agree…! Engine doesn’t turn fast enough to get it started! Good luck Brother, hope you succeed.
Hi! My name is Mike and I've really enjoyed watching what you're doing with that 401. My father owned one and I got to fly it two times. I'm excited as hell for you! I can't wait to hear that motor start. Good luck to you!
Hi Michael, your support means everything to us here at the channel, thank you for allowing us to do what we love.
Let's light this candle! Can't wait to hear it run! I think your close and wish you the best.
Thanks for sharing this story, very informative and enjoyable.
Hey there, A&P/IA here. In my experience with Continental engines, you have to prime them, a lot, until you've got a good stream coming from the drain. Then I'd also recommend using a GPU in conjunction with the battery hook-up, to really give that extra bit of power to the starter, especially in cold weather.
That’s what I’ve been thinking. I never see him priming and I would hook up a jumper to the wall.
Just commenting to bump this so he sees it
Yes your right as a A&P. IA I have had same experience
This why I guy on the ground as fire guard
Has to know hand signals to the man starting letting know what is going on thumb up and down for fuel running out of drains and has stop
Correct answer! A&P, IA here.
Anyone else leaning forward and WILLING that engine to start, listening for even the slightest firing noise!? You can do it man, keep at it!!
And yes, getting some rest always seems to wonders when working on stuff. 👍
It's amazing how functional and fresh you were after an all-nighter, amazing. Just your whole demeanor is impressive, you maintained a balanced frame of mind throughout. I'm a big aviation buff, so this series is particularly interesting for me. Glad I found the channel, great job sir. 👍
Best of luck. Great demonstration of “getting it done.” My son (12) and I spend time watching the trial and error, frustration, problems solving, adapting and moving on. I really like how you talk about your ownership and feelings. Really a good example of a grown up. Aspirational. “When you get so close to the end of something, you start rushing and forget what your doing”. Really help to keep us grounded and focused.
Hey Joe ! Thank you so much for dropping by and sharing…. It makes doing these videos so much more fun and rewarding. We’re glad you’re here with us on the channel. Say hi to your Son from all of us at Rebuild Rescue !
What a roller coaster! I got some 310 parts if you need em ;)
Ahaha, thought I'd see you here
Can i get a CLEAR PROP!
#SaveThe401 ;)
Jimmy please help the man
Saawwweett!! Great to see you here @Jimmys World !
One thing about aircraft mags, in my experience it's only the left mag that's used for starting. I noticed in an earlier video you were checking the right mag for spark, which is fine, but only the left mag has an induction coil to advance the spark for starting. If the left mag is toast you'll never get it started even with the right mag making spark because it's coming at the wrong time - right time with the engine running, wrong time during the start cycle. Best wishes on the huge project!
Possibly weak spark,Timing spark off, stuck valves? Ask some one that owners one for advice.
Part 3 he checks both mags and verified their conditions if I remember correctly
this is a good point
Watching you guys working on on this 401 ,reminds me of my job being an aircraft for 26 yrs ,even doing my category 'C' license successfully. I congratulate all who are there with you,and will watch this baby fly one day.🥰🥰🥰
I stumbled on episode one today and just finished all of them. You are so close to getting that thing running. We're rooting for you!!!
I like how you're getting us all emotionally invested in this project and telling us that it's just as much our project as it i yours and that you'll never give up on this plane in spite of someone try to spend big money to take it away from you.
Literally tho
Do you see where being a UA-cam turd gets you guy? Jesus Christ jew, show some self-respect for yourself. "Our project" only means that we are sitting on our asses watching somebody else live you, you, you.....
Yeah isnt emotional manipulation great?
@@pauldailey4477 best comment sinds the beginning of the end
Yeah I can’t wait till it’s up flying, I’ll be waiting for my weekend to use our plane . 🎉🎊🥳🍾
I have never been so emotionally invested in a YT series before. I can't wait to see those props turning under their own power
I was saying common' baby when he was cranking it over as well..
I was making all kinds of faces while he was turning the engine over, I was ready for it to fire, but nothing 😔 can't wait for the next vid
@@DuncanCardew I have not watched all the vids, I'm sure you shot some oil down the jugs when the plugs were out? No oil on the rings = low compression.
@@SegoMan hmmm. I think, if I remember correctly he already did that. Not sure though 😊
Same, best YT series ever!
I'm speechless about the knowledge.
Clean/replace the points and test the condenser. The points may be glazed over and just need cleaned with some emery cloth. The condenser (capacitor) may also be weak. You may get spark outside the engine, but if the points are dirty or the condenser is weak, it will not fire in the combustion chamber.
As an A&P mechanic and pilot, this has been really fun to watch. Looks like you went through the fuel system pretty good. But you seriously need to go through the ignition system. I guarantee you the magnetos need maintenance, coil, capacitor, points, timing. And the plugs need to either be replaced or if within electrode erosion limits, properly cleaned, gapped, and tested. I know you can get that thing running!
Thank you for taking some time to leave us some advice Eric…. We had ordered the parts to freshen up the mags but haven’t received them yet unfortunately 👎🏼 Hoping they get here soon.
The plugs look good after we cleaned them up as far as erosion etc. They also tested well resistance wise. 👍🏼
wow , a *Magneto* on a plane , I am familiar with this from my lawn mower, as I would clean the contacts and sand paper the the magnet on the actual pully side and *_Points_* I remember this from working with my Dad on Old school Cars , as well as old school coils and rotors, and even remember old worn out points. great info
@@peapee6952 Magnetos are very common on aircraft! Even brand new ones!
It's going to take a lot of fuel to get it to fire at that temperature. Autofuel is much more volatile, and won't hurt anything on a ground run. If the other side is running, get its alternator online to boost cranking voltage.
@@peapee6952 not the same you have point cams that turn to set egap to get hot spark
You absolutely must have a battery in good condition, one that's big enough to push a 520 cubic inch engine. If you are under voltage, or can't supply enough current, you CAN burn up a starter.
Test the spark plugs on a spark plug tester, a spark plug may not fire under compression, change the Oil & Oil filter, remove a spark plug and spray some oil into the cylinder, turn the engine over by hand or with the starter, use a Flair wrench when you can...
I dont watch TV. This is much better than any TV show. greetings from Croatia - so satisfying klicksound from the torque wrench
I’m so invested in this story, I think I’ll cry if I see this thing fly again 🥲 Best of luck, from a multi-engine flying instructor in the UK.
But actually flying the plane safely must be sooo much work though?
You won’t. It’s a pipe dream. It’ll cost twice what that planes worth to make it airworthy
@@rvaguitars Sad but true.
Great job so far! Forgive me if anyone has written to you about this, but fuel injected aircraft engines flood VERY easy. Most of them have a starting procedure of a) Mixture rich, b) boost pump on, c) whatch for a few seconds of fuel flow on the fuel pressure gauge d) boost pump off. And in a lot of cases, the books say mixture back to idle cutoff, and you have your hand on the mixture knob during cranking, and when it fires, you immediately go mixture rich. You kinda need 3 hands. the start with mixer in idle cutoff is what keeps it from flooding. Forgive me if someone has shared this before. Best of luck!
That sounds like it might be very useful!
As a former navy fighter jet engine mechanic and a car mechanic, I’m sitting here patiently yelling at you, but of course you can’t hear me. So I’ll simply continue to armchair quarterback your repair!! Good luck man, you’re right on the hairy edge of a start!
😁😁😁😁
Greetings from Australia. I don't understand the entire mechanisms of an airplane, however, its so much fun to watch this series. Your passion and "don't give up" mentality is inspiring indeed!
The valves are probably stuck from sitting so long. Easy enough to pull a couple valve covers off to confirm. Leak down test would be smart too. Also, as mentioned, it doesnt seem to be turning over fast enough. Someone should have a ground power unit you can borrow rather than jump starting. Stick with trying to fix that engine, the other will be in very similar shape and you're so close with this one.
AME-M here (Canadian aircraft maintenance license)
American AMT here and I agree. Looking at the way it turned over with the plugs installed versus with the plugs removed I'd say the exhaust is completely plugged or the valves are stuck closed. Its not breathing. If not that then I'd say remove the turbo and give it a shot. It'll run without the turbo installed.
i dont think it OHV the valves are like a lawn mower where they are beside the piston so the head would have to be pulled or pull a plug and use a scope to see.
@@bobthompson4319 wikipedia says overhead valves for the Continental GTSIO-520-D.
I don't have personal experience on this particular unit though so you could be right.
@@trialspro I don't know for sure either. but I do know pulling the plugs and using a scope won't need a new gasket. because it's a plane you can't be like just try it and if something happens we will just get a tow back home
@@bobthompson4319 well aware of that, but this thing will NEVER fly again.
That kind of responsibility plus lower pay is why i left the industry years ago.
Either way, we're both on the same page; leak down test would be the least invasive way to check the valves, boroscope would work too.
The magneto needs RPM to generate the minimum voltage requirements.
Getting into the 150 RPM range would help the spark and also help with the cylinder pressure bleed off too. This bleed off has already been mentioned in a comment below.
At least one, if not both mags have impulse couplers and do not need much to fire. These will fire while hand turning the prop, albeit you would not want to do that on this engine!
Starter seems very lazy or both them battries are crap
@@naumanntinray7053 no it should be a 12 v buzzer there, no couplers on mags... so it needs more rpm for start... I fly regularly 414, and they are almost the same planes, when the battery is weak it's almost impossible to start. Just need to plug in external power supply and it will fire up
Yes! But the guy trying to repair it, I would say he only read about internal combustion engines. There are so many times during this plane project when I was yelling, what is he doing there....
Remove those jumper wires, use short wires, or stack the batterys on top of the other in the battery box and use short wires. Also if you don't have sufficient RPM, remove two spark plugs so you have less compresion, you will run it in 4 cylinders as for trial...
Definitely cranking way too slow, my pops had a saratoga with a lycoming 540 in it, obviously not the same engine but these things can be really tricky to start and if you're not following the procedure right it's just going to end up flooded and you'll get nowhere.
Please DO NOT QUIT !!!
We are here for you !
I love the passion you have and i know this thing is gonna fire up !!!
This is your airplane man !!!
Blessings !!
Thank you !!
Nothing but nothing puts an old abandoned plane than perseverance!! Keep going. Your only one step away from firing it up!!
I haven’t been this invested in/excited about someone’s project for a long time. You’re GONNA GET IT STARTED!!
But would you ever fly it once it did get started?
@@BUSTRCHERRI No way in hell!!!!! ☠☠
yooo what its him the kabonster man
It does appear that at least one and maybe two cylinders are firing, or at least lighting off some of the fuel because as it was cranking you could see 5 propeller hesitations, and then the 6th one would seem to push the engine a half revolution or so as the prop would blur for a half second. I'm sure there are some stuck rings causing low compression. Make a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, take the top plugs out and pour a couple ounces into each cylinder.. Then turn the prop by hand a couple rotations to move the mixture around in the cylinder a bit. Let it sit overnight. The mix will help to loosen the rings, and more importantly help with ring sealing. It may bring the compression up enough to start it. Also, before you do try to start it, crank it over with the starter with the top plugs out to blow most of the remaining mixture out of the cylinders. Don't want to hydro-lock it and bend a connecting rod. Put the plugs back in, then turn it over by hand a couple turns to make sure it isn't hydro-locked.
Also, the jumper cables are not the ideal way to power the plane, lots of loss in those, especially in the clamps. If you feel the cables and clamps you will likely notice they are warm, due to the voltage drop in them. If you absolutely need to use the cables tie the positive of one battery to the negative of the other with a HEAVY battery cable, and then use BOTH of your jumper cables in parallel to power the airplane electrical system.
I was gonna say it seemed either 2 cylinders are firing or low compression
@ebbspeed, super astute technical advice, a compression test might be a good idea to see what the compression is in each cylinder also had the same thought the spark is weak or not strong enough, the cable leads is a good suggestion, also could be the magneto are damaged due to sitting for so long (can you get a good set of 6 out of the 12 on the plane. The principal of spark, compression and fuel stand, so either one, two or all three of these are problematic, looks like fuel is solved so it has to be 1 and or 2 (Spark and Compression). Maybe now the motor can be turned over pull all the plugs out earth them to the motor and turn the motor over to eyeball if there is a spark in the electrode of each of the spark plugs, us e the slo-mo function on the iphone to video it!
Sorry I had not read through all the great comments, but also looks like fuel is an issue as well with flooding.
totally agree.
I would say youre correct but im pretty sure in the 2nd video he already put oil in all the cylinders and turned the propeller for a couple of minutes to free it up. Before he did that this thing was locked in place. I think his real issue is just power. Maybe it needs to turn over a lot faster
You Can Do It! Keep going! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
STARTING FLUID!!!!!! just needs some pop. The valves have some deposits on the seats giving it low compression. Once it fires it will run.
I honestly didn't realize how invested I was going to be at the start of this. MAN I hope you get this started!!!
IKR?! I was devastated when he told us about the other offer the guy got last week! Can only imagine how he felt😮
Same
I was literally watching and going, "go on, start already!" I think I heard a few pops in there as well!
Can't wait for it to come to life again!
You got this!
Me too. haha
As an experienced mechanic, I’m sometimes forced to go back to basics when starting a stubborn (or neglected) engine.
ANY internal combustion engine needs 3 things for it to run.
1. Good compression.
2. Proper air/fuel mixture.
3. Ignition (at the right time).
An old engine sometimes needs oil in the cylinders to seal the piston rings (and lubricate the dry cylinder as well). That can help restore compression.
Anything close to a proper air/fuel ratio should at least get it started. One thing that can actually mess up that ratio is fuel-contaminated oil. Not sure about aircraft piston engines, but I’ve seen this plenty of times with automobiles. Clean oil can be a game changer.
I’ve been fooled a few times with engines that were producing spark, only to discover that timing was an issue. Whether from a partially-sheared flywheel key, an incorrect firing order, or a distributor set in wrong, spark at the wrong moment will ruin your day. (Diesels are ignited by the heat of compression, so two elements are closely related there).
So my advice is to figure which one or more of these three elements is missing.
PS Oh, and yes, a higher cranking speed can do wonders to wake up a sleeper. Do they have a start cart there, with some big honking batteries?
The ultrasonic bath will work a lot better if you use the basket, having heavy things sat on the bottom messes with the resonance of the transducer
You need to put a battery in the plane. The reason for the engine turning over slow is because you are loosing cranking amps from the jumper cables. You need to hook the battery up directly to the planes battery cables, clean the contacts. Pull off the starter and spray the BP blaster in it to help. After all of that being done, you should see an improvement. Hope that helps. Keep up the good work. You should also contact Jimmy at the Jimmy's World UA-cam channel, he might be able to help you.
That's if it's not Jimmy who made the anonymous offer ;)
Check voltage at starter! Wires could be bad, causing too much voltage drop between batt. and starter, and hence lack of power.
I really hope you get some better luck with the left sided engine and we all get to hear this beauty roar into life, even if its only the one engine, I just can't wait to hear her come to life once again, after such abandonment.
Bless you man for all your hard work, hang in there buddy and let's get her running one more time.
Thank you so much for being here on the channel to share this adventure. I can’t for us all to hear it fire up for the first time in forever !
I'm loving this project. I'm on the edge of my seat while watching and greatly anticipate a positive outcome. Reading the comments, I recommend better voltage because it's not turning over fast enough but my main concern is sticky valves and/or the timing is off a little. Advance the timing a degree and see if that gets it to start.
Thank you for watching Mike !
Definitely an issue not getting enough juice to the starter.
@Thomas Vavrusco bullshit 😀
@Thomas Vavrusco yes fuel is ok so how can you be so certain that juice is ok when you see 2 meter long jumper leads?
Edit: Juice means electric..btw
@@bearpoik IKR!! It's def turning over fast enough. I may be way off in left field but he's definitely not getting any fire through the distributor for it not able to ignite that blast of ether. Could be an Oil-Pressure Switch in there somewhere locking out the ignition. Weird it's not even getting white smoke/vapor from compressed unburnt fuel, coming out of the exhaust. His fuel pump just doesn't seem right. He might have fuel flow but not enough high fuel pressure to push fuel through the injectors.
Yeah maybe needs new battery’s because didn’t he use those same ones last video. Anyway just my thoughts
@@bearpoik depends on the wire gauge of the jumper cables. I made a set of 1gauge welding lead jumper cables 20 years ago, that I still have, and with them you don't have to wait to let a dead battery charge up. As soon as you hook them up you're ready to start your dead vehicle.
Low-time pilot here: this is SO interesting, rooting for you to get this started! Don't give up on it!!! Love the series
people like you are responsible for me being a airplane enthusiast... whenever i see a person with passion, love, respect and feelings for an airplane, it only assures me to get my pilot licence once i have the age for it. love your work, keep it up✊
Thank you for being a day one supporter Martin, it means the world to us
to watch Great from over the pond. Thank you..
Jumping to the other engine maybe a good idea especially as you’re not getting any oil pressure on that side and you don’t want to cause more damage…
Good luck I’m invested in this now lol I want to see it run…
These engines take a while to build oil pressure, it's possible it hadn't had enough time to rise yet.
I agree, He now has the knowledge from working on the right engine that will be transferred to working on the left engine which would speed up getting this thing running :)
What the hell is with all the damn porn advertising comments!? 🤔
@@lovetofly32 - UA-cam seems to be so focused on going after political and coof jab speech that they have been overlooking the porn posts. I am seeing this in the comment section on almost every video I watch now. It is frustrating.
Stick with the engine that has been 99% serviced to run ! concentrate on the gremlin that is giving you the problem ! Don't abandon all the work so far , walking away from one problem doesn't solve the issue !
Been really enjoying watching this. So kind to get us all involved can't wait for next video
@Wesney--💞 WTF reported for spam
@Jieca Misla Reported for spam. GFY
@@yeeehawgrandmaw908 As did I. It rubbed me the wrong way. Ba Dum tss
Found a dozen of them and there's probably more.
same
Same this guy is so cool he is the best and he works so hard keep working
Great work! I agree with the person who wrote that it takes things to another level to see someone so passionate about their work! 👍
I'm really getting into this now I don't have any previous interest in aeroplanes or mechanics but watching you get so stuck in to try and make this baby work again is so exciting I was absolutely gutted that it didn't start I hope you find the problem because I really want to see a happy ending here lol . Good luck from uk 🇬🇧 👍 💪 😀
Check for spark
Check for continuity through the plug leads
Check every cylinder for the correct compression
Check the fuel pressure
Check that the injectors are clean and spraying misty and evenly.
Check the airflow to the engine
Check the air inlet hoses for blockages or cracks
Check the valve timing of the engine
Check the ignition timing of the engine.
After you have done this, you have checked the basics.
The turbo not spinning is also a big concern
Wow I think he did most of that and Continental calls them nozzles and he did the the quickly flow ck that continental book tells you to do. He said he has spark and did the cking and cleaning of
Continental nozzles
the engine will start with turbo seized as the air with be sucked through the compressor blades and out the turbine,they just wont spin.and because you dont see boost at idle it doesnt effect the fuel/timing maps.
also hes using two 12v car batteries which are around 12.8v fully charged but this plane takes 28v battery.therfore hes a few volts short.this may not be the actual issue but i beleive if he can get the 28.8v to increase rpm while playing with fuel mix and spary start fluid i bet it will get past this hickup.
from what i read in here you dont start at a full rich mix which hes doing so could be that simple
@@pigeonsil240sx Did not know that these needed a 28v power source, that's crucial. I thought they were 24v, makes sense.
@@pigeonsil240sx bingo….. the instant I would’ve started this project batteries/plugs/points/filters/oil/drain gas tanks/clean grounds then diagnose further
@@pigeonsil240sx i have seen this same engine run on no compressor blades and locked turbocharger as owner left a small screw driver in the compressor after changing oil and after the owener flew the aircraft he came to shop i was working at said it was not making power i pulled the nozzles and the air side of fuel nozzles (not injectors they are called fuel nozzles by continental ) were full of plastic chips from handle of screw driver and compressor blades were gone so they will run locked up or no blades but will not come up to power As for battery power there is a ground power plug on this aircraft get a ground power cart as for the mixure full rich fuel pump high move the throttle to see fuel flow on gage at this time move mixure to cut off throttle to idle or cracked then push the starter with both mags on
i have seen crazy people hand prop a tio520 in cessna 210 this aircraft has shower of sparks starting vibrator for the retard points as for the ing leads get ES5 Cable tester but there tricks to use the mag and the starer vibrator to ck leads and so on get old timer like me to show you kids more than likly if these engines start and the turbo spools up and contacts the side of the housing on compressor side all that material is going into the engine
You need an engine test stand.. Control the variables by removing the engine and connect it to systems you can easily trouble shoot. If you isolate the engine and can prove that it runs correctly, you can start tracing back issues. Way too many variables to troubleshoot while attached. 1 chewed wire touching something metal causing a short could have you troubleshooting for months.
Nah.. this is a simple carburetor engine with mags. The mags shut off by simply grounding one wire out. If that wire is simply disconnected then you got spark. If it cranks and has spark then she will run! Obviously of the valves aren't stuck open. He just needs to get fuel in those cylinders.. 100% guarantee.
That a good way to do it what you just suggest mate. Especially for something that was sitting outside for that amount of time.
if he gets it to start once then it becomes HIS plane ... and then that would be worth the work ... atm pulling the engine makes him responsible for that engine ... and as it was stowed working he would have to return it working ... meaning he loses that money ... not the right plan to get basic proof to transfer ownership ...
what an extra waste of time. test in situ
@@wwv I hear ya, but you could easily rig your own fuel tank, own oil tank and connect battery straight to engine.. my point being don't rely on the onboard systems.
My wife and I grew up in the Chicagoland area, and now live in the Houston area. Taking this up to Chicago with the family for home trips would be much better than driving or taking commercial!
I just like seeing things restored and repaired
Just want to say, I am dying to see this thing start. A couple of things to do, 1. Get new batteries, clean out the battery boxes and get them hooked up right. 2. Drain every last drop of fuel out of all of the tanks, put new fuel in them, drain them again and refill with fresh gas. 3. Take all 4 magnetos out and rebuild them. From what you have showed us the point contacts are probably ok, they will need new condensers, I guarantee it. 4. Take the turbos off and get new bearings put in them. Here is the logic behind my suggestions, engine doesn't turn over during start, new batteries, the end. Engine won't light off, after sitting for how many years??? new gas, new gas, new gas. The engine would have started if it had something to burn. Magnetos are not magic but the condensers have two things that work against them, heat and time. There are two main parts to a magneto, points and condenser and an impulse coupling. Points are probably OK but $25 bucks for a condenser will prevent a lot of time in the hangar wondering why you have no spark. Do not waste your time trying to see sparks in the dark, once you have the mag off and the condenser changed, put on a motorcycle helmet and turn the drive gear on the mag by hand. When the spring on the impulse coupling takes off the 60 thousand volts it generates will drop you head first into the hangar floor. Its working now. There is one and only one way to 'rebuild' a turbo, change the bearing, it's only moving part. It will cost some coin, there are 4 of them. OK, that's the easy way to get this monster started. Unfortunately, once you get it started it will cost you in the vicinity of 12-15 thousand dollars to get it airworthy. Good luck, can't wait for the next video!!!
Hi it needs to turn over faster , dont think the starter is getting enough power , as some else suggested put the batterys in the plane connect with clean leads ! You loose too much power the way you are doing it . Also the oil pressure should build up hopefully ,if it does start an no oil pressure it will wreck the engine in seconds , so let's hope . When engines have been stood for years condensation builds up in engine turning the oil into milk , I'd drop it , for the cost of the oil , cheaper than wrecking the engine .
Good luck , we all with ya .👍😊
your estimate on getting it trustworthy is definetly not applicable to US reality. Last time someone mentioned it was 50-80k job due to some flaw with this particular model
12-15 to get it airworthy, MUCH more if that spar cap AD applies.
Brian Rudy, I agree with most you said but even if he gets both engines running they will still need to be compression tested and failing this he'll need an overhaul at $15K each. with minimal replacement parts. A cracked casing can cause a severe set back and lots more $$. Your comment 12-15K to airworthiness status doesn't take into considerations the inspections on the airframe, landing gear, hydraulics, autopilot (optional), cabling and wiring harness. Let's not forget corrosion damage which can be discovered in literally hundreds of places which might even require aluminum panel replacement. Oh yeah, and then there's those constant speed props that need inspection for nicks (whitish marks usually mean corrosion) and hub integrity ...at $4K each to overhaul it is well worth the investment. My estimation to airworthiness still remains $125-$150K. Of course this doesn't include his time which so far has been considerable. Again I suggest he part it out after getting it running as running the engines (not peaking them) may become the least of the hurdles he'll eventually face. Good luck to Rebuild Rescue and his team.
@@markwilson7792 30 years ago we ran a similar engine for 5 mins without oil pumping in a Continental and Lycoming engine training. It works, just isn't smart to do for very long! ;) What I suggested him to get oil at all dry moving parts from the beginning... Compressed air through a tube in the engine. That should blow oil inside all over the place and at least gets some oil to the dry bushings before oil has a chance to be pumped there later while trying to fire the engine up. Not the elegant solution and more of a bush fix, but hey! At least no bone dry bushings! ;) The O-520 is way past it's 12 year inspection interval anyway. I would guess he changed the oil. That's what everyone would do right from the beginning, no matter of rebuilding a car or plane engine, right? I strongly agree with Brain Rudy on the condensers. This mags performance seemed vey weak.
You need to be careful using anti-seize on bolts (or in this case, injectors) that you are torquing. The anti-seize acts as a lubricant and allows you to overtighten the bolt. If the manual says to use dry threads, the torque is for dry threads. There are adjustment factors out there but it won't be an "approved" use. Last thing, there is high-temp anti-seize available for applications like this.
Brass doesn't need antiseize. It's not approved for use on fuel system components(neither is Teflon tape for obvious reasons).Continental requires light lube on the o rings for the airbleed only, not the threads.
To begin with they are nozzles and if he was using a up to date tech data he would know this what is approved FOR installing nozzles not what he thinks and what NAPA SAYS or what A be aircraft mechanic do it your self er
A&P ARE licensed By the FAA
@@esandave nicely stated.
Also using a metallic antisieze on a brass to aluminum will size or gall ,
Patiently waiting for Ep. 5 of the plane rebuild!!! It’s also cool seeing the positive support and feedback! We believe in you man!!
Definitely gotta take this thing to the back country. Somewhere far from any airport and bring all your goodies with you for an ultimate camping/fishing/hunting trip
You should see some oil pressure when cranking the engine. I have taken the oip pump apart and packed the gears with vaseline, and then reassemble. This gives the oil pump great suction and pulls the oil into the pump. Once the engine starts, the vaseline dissolves in the oil.
Remember the two basic rules of an engine starting, fuel, and spark. You have fuel but you need to check your spark. If you have spark to those plugs, that engine will start....I watched how much faster that prop spinned when you took the plugs out versus when you had them in, so that tells me that you have decent compression in those cylinders. Honestly, I would stick with the same engine before going to the next. I don't think you have enough power going to that starter to turn that engine. Go check your spark on those plugs and if you have spark, increase the battery power with a large and strong jump box with high amps and that engine will start.
You’re totally right, but I think he checked spark and the mags in the last video.
Agree
4 bacis rules spark/fuel/compression/air
@@pigeonsil240sx Yep. Intake/exhaust obstruction doesn't help compression. Let's pull that seized turbo out of the intake and exhaust paths, get some serious amps into that starter, and maybe some heavy oil into the cylinder bores to help build compression. The oil added on the ramp has long since leaked past the rings.
He already verified there was spark in a previous video. I like the idea of switching engines. There may be a time limit for the contract to get an engine running, and the left side motor might be a lot easier to get running.
Don't give up we follow You !!!!! Thank You for sharing !!!
I appreciate that Guillermo, I hope you've been enjoying the new episodes
You Are a hero doing this if you can get someone to belive in this investing to get it in the air, you can do good thinges with it, keep up the good work
Take a read through the POH starting procedure. On the 310s I’ve flown, you are supposed to hold the primer toggle switch while you’re cranking the engines.
Whoever does your editing always does a fantastic job. I'm always so impressed with all of your videos. We definitely notice your guys' hard work on these.
Absolutely 100% thank you for noticing the hard work that goes into it !
Thank you for watching 👍🏼
Keep after it. GL
Don’t give up! You will figure it out! I’m so psyched to see you get there!
And, I just remembered that as an Army mechanic 40 years ago I was trained on(but never exposed to real field conditions because the engine was phased out before my permanent duty station) the Continental gas V-12 that powered the M88 recovery vehicle. Fully 40% of the training involved the magnetos internals and timing. It was a process and if not correct all the fuel, spark and starter speed in the world would not let the engine fire.
i've actually seen similar things with small engine stuff. That sheared key way that controls timing from the crank has made many scratch their head with good air intake, spark, fuel and compression. Not familiar with aircraft at all I don't know how they keep ignition time but i like your point here. I see it a lot with mowers after someone hits a rock, it's made to protect the crank in theory and the operator potentially. I would imagine the props could be connected to the crank and the timing could be in that setup somewhere?
Flooded start. After seeing fuel flow on engine gauge when priming at full rich mixture/throttle opening, then go full lean mixture (fuel off). About 3/4" inch throttle to 3" three inch throttle (cracked fairly well) then crank with mags on. When it kicks and runs, then smoothly advance the mixture to full rich while reducing the throttle to lower rpms to keep the engine running. As you know, too much (rich) or too little (lean) fuel/air and it will not run. You are currently cold climate, so it should start a little on the rich side. Good luck RebuildRescue.
about same thing i said but you shoud get somebody outside with fire bottle and can hand signel the guy starting like fuel coming out the intake drains if there working
I know nada about airplanes a bit about engines but I'm enjoying these videos very much. Thanks I'm rooting for you. Great Job!
YOUR AWESOME LOVE YOUR PATIENTS HAT OFF
In addition to checking for blue spark, shorten battery cables. You will need as much speed possible so reduce the resistance in your wires. Battery cables will increase resistance dropping voltage to the starter.
As a retired fuel systems mechanic in the Air Force, I do enjoy watching you work on this bird and have every confidence in your getting it started!👍🏻
Hi from the U.K and an ex PAA mechanic.
Firstly remove a sparkplug and connect the plug cap back, rest the plug on the fins of the cylinder so you can see it from the cockpit. Climb aboard, Master switch on, turn off all ancilliary busses. Turn off fuel pumps and fuel cocks. Switch ignition (Magnetos 1 & 2 ) to on. Engage starter, can you see a spark at the plugs? If not get some one to look at the plug whilst cranking. NO Fuel going so engine won't start...safe to watch close up. Flip magneto switch between number 1 and 2,any spark??? if not dissconect Batteries
and check the magneto disable wire. This usually runs to ground through the mag switches. If the switches in the cockpit have failed you may have a short circuit to ground preventing a spark. This simple wiring system can be checked with a Test meter from the magneto(s). You will need to check the maintenance manual for the ignition wiring schematic. It looks to me as tho' you have no spark. You have fuel, but no ignition...if the engine is totally buggered,it should still fire up. Another possibility is the carbon brushes in the magneto may be siezed/corroded and making contact with the armature.
Suggest you give the ignition system a good look over. Hope this helps...lets hear this engine !!!!!
Good luck
Hey Stuart ! Thank you for taking the time to share all of that info…. We’ve tested the entire system and ordered a number of ignition parts. Hoping it gets her going ! 🤞🏻
Thank you for watching !
@@rebuildrescue Hi
Your more than welcome. I was going on to say that that I imagine the magneto's have contact breaker points. These can be either mechanical or electronic Hall effect (magnetic switch) points. If they are mechanical, the points can often become burnt and pitted, there may well be corrosion on the faces of the points. Just as a maybe quick workaround, just clean the faces with some fine wet and dry paper, say 800 grit..nothing courser. The faces should be flat. I guess you will renew these parts prior to getting airborne. Normally there is a capacitor (condenser) across the points to stop arcing and also acts as electrical interference suppression. You can check this capacitor with a volt/ohm meter on a high resistance range. The capacitor should give a little kick upward reading and return to zero. If it reads constantly, then it is u/s...bin it! On electronic points It should also be possible to check for a small dc voltage . This is o.k and shows the electronic points are working. Magneto's can also loose their magnetism over time if left standing. A good aircraft electrical shop should be able to remagnetise at reasonable cost. Also check the spark plug leads individually with a V/O/A meter from the magneto outputs. You are checking for continuity, no open circuit or high resistance leads. Do not be tempted to use automotive carbon filled h.t leads.The HT leads should be solid copper, and sheilded to ground. Again check the Maint Manual.
The pick up brushes and HT connectors will most definitely need a clean and inspection. Do not, repeat, do not spray WD40 or simlar into the brush pickup's. WD40 is an insulator and will screw the mag no end.
I'll keep checking back....good luck, and above all, do it by the Maint Manual.
Stu Wolf Ex PAA LHR also BBMF RAF preferred radio mechanic.
I admire your tenacity my friend. Your going to get it started soon. I pray for you. You deserve something from your hard work - not dissapointment. Keep it up. The whole world is watching and routing you on. Can't wait to see your next video !
Thank you Michael !
I'm so confident you can get this thing started. It's *so* close. Really looking forward to seeing more of the series!
Waaaw - you almost had it this time - was so excited!!! My observation - the prop looks to be spinning way way too slowly to start cold after sitting idle for so many years. If I were trying to start a plane and saw that I'd think the battery was flat (but if in good flying order yeah it'd still start like that, but i'd get the LAME to check before next flight). It should spin more like when you took the plugs out. So can you ditch the batteries and plug in external power? it should have external power socket. Also I'm not so sure about it starting without the turbo working - yeah I know there is turbo bypass and engine will run, but this thing has been sitting idle for so many years - so id at least get the turbo spinning or removed completely. Last thing - when starting, magneto has a pulse coupling which changes the timing of spark to favour starting conditions, then once starter disengages the pulse coupling disengages and magneto spark timing goes back to normal. I also believe it will only spark on certain plugs while starting, then once started, it sparks on all plugs. So I'd check the magneto's again - upon first inspection just checking for spark you may think they are working fine. But this impulse coupling may be stuck and you wont tell, because it will still produce spark. A plane sitting that long in cold environment with dodgy magnetos that wont spark in the timing needed for start conditions will never start. Perhaps tear down 1 magneto first to save time?!
It doesn't have impulse mags, it has shower or spark mags with a vibrato.
I concur ! ( Engine specialist United States Airforce 1954 to 1959 (recip engines )
How old are you? You have a lot of energy and remind me of me back when I was younger. Same routine....up, down, push, pull, on your knees, on your back, in the cold, in the warmth. Up all night. Never slow down. Organized, & methodical. I'm watching myself years ago!!
This is definitely a labor of love for you, rooting for you to get this thing started every time brother!
Thank you Andrey
It would be a good idea to disconnect the turbo from the exhaust since it’s totally locked up. You’re blocking any exhaust flow with a locked snail, not to mention if anything got into the exhaust somehow between the escargot and heads. It might not be the “magic bullet” but it certainly won’t hurt.
Yep i think it's just being choked out
That's not how turbos work slick.
Considering its completely locked its worth a shot. Plus who knows what you might suck in from that turbo.
@@malbers35 Yes it is ,if the spindle is locked then it goes through to the exhaust side which also has a fan, acts as a blockage
@@malbers35 Huh? Do you know how turbos work? Do you know that diesels use them as exhaust brakes? Sure they’re variable vane so they can choke it off more, but what do you think causes the turbine to spin with enough force to create boost on the compressor side there’s no restriction? 🤦🏼♂️
This has, so far, been almost like a produced suspense thriller. Great stuff!
right i was on edge from anticipation the whole episode
Yep, produced alright 😁
Fun to watch, though!
@@allertschallenberg1857 Agree. Seems scripted/dramatized. Also far too slow, he said "I dont know why it feels like this takes forever". Excactly the same thing I think watching this. No need to show him doing the same job on almost every cyllinder etc. I like the content though, but since I am a producer by profession myself I would tighten the content a lot. The people who is into this content by high interest and/or profession will watch it anyway. The clue to be big is to also attract the people who are not living and breathing for aero-content. This video is worth appoximately 10 minutes of length. Keeping people like me watching need videoes where I don't have to click the right arrow button to jump 5 seconds every 3 seconds. But, great content. Just too long, and don't look true enough.
Don't be discouraged by all the work you are having to do. Would you really not have wanted to go through the fueling system as thoroughly as you now have done before you put it in the air? I think not so I know you'd like to just fulfill the start and then go back through to tidy everything up so you have the full flight ready service done. But think of whatever you go through completely for the initial start up is already done, and therefore that much less you need to do after it starts to make be full flight ready. Good job my friend!
You mentioned earlier "that the magnetos are good". As simple as magnetos may be, assembly, installation, and accurate timing is essential and usually requires special tools... Shop manuals can save lots of time and headache. I was very fortunate at one time to borrow some maintenance/ repair manuals from a local aircraft maintenance shop long enough to make copies. Good luck, don't give up!
Greetings from the UK - I’ve never been more excited to see a plane start! Really hope you get it running. I’d love to see the interior fully restored.
You're killing it man I got a similar deal with a house that had been abandoned. I'm almost done and ready to move in. I feel your pain!
House doesn't fall out of the sky when you do something wrong lol
Yeah a free house and land sounds painful 😑
@@TheSeamusf Generally it comes with a clause that you have to put a certain amount of money in, get it back into a nice state, etc., within a certain time period.
Some "ghost towns" with a lot of empty buildings do that sort of thing to attract new people. Most famously the 1€ homes in italy.
hope it's not a crank house ... cuz that would be one HUGE crank having to rotate to start a house ;)
Except the free house you can work on, doesn't require a certified A&P to do a huge percent of the work and then sign off on all the work.
Plus with no log books this is a joke.
Engines need to be completely rebuild props rebuild. New log
Just that will be 75k each side.
All ADs for plane will have to be done again plus the 100k dollar 1 that wasn't done.
35k new interior minimum
25k minimum new paint
50k minimum update avionics
Minimum 400k to get this plane back flying.
Can buy a king air with twin turbine engine that's bigger for less.
Or a mid 80s c401 for low 300s.
I owned an auto repair shop for about 18 years. We would occasionally get a car that would not run, basically like your right engine. The problem was usually gasoline fouled spark plugs. They could NOT be cleaned, the solution was new spark plugs. With the new plugs the engine would fire right up. I would suggest that you swap the plugs from the left engine into the right engine, that may get the right engine to run. A couple of other observations, I owned boats for a lot of years that had a point/coil ignition system. In the spring time when I tried to get the engine to run, they would not start until I cleaned the points with either emery paper or an ignition file. The points looked clean but they had a non conductive corrosion on them. Another observation, your lash up with the batteries is another area that may doom you to failure, those long very weak jumper cables and causing a LOT of voltage loss and could be the reason the engine cranks so slow. Get shorter heavier cables and also add a heavy duty charger while you are trying to start the engine, that should really help speed up the cranking speed. good luck!
I don't think I have rooted for anything so much in my life. LOL!!!!! I was literally (yes, literally) on the edge of my chair saying COME ON COME ON!!!! I am here until this baby is in the air!!!! Can't wait!!!!
As a gal who only worked for an airplane company 16 years ago, I also know very little about mechanics... I understand enough to follow what and why you are doing what you are doing. I have been watching since the first episode, and so excited to see this start up, I totally thought it was going to turn over here. Keep it up, I have faith, it will go...
Do a compression check to test the compressions of each cylinder, valves might not be sealing properly or piston rings are shot
true but it could/should run on 1 or 2 less XD
I was kind of thinking the same thing as some other people. From what I could tell in the video it looks like the starter is not turning the prop over enough for it to start. It sure looked like it was trying to start though. I think you just need a bit more power to the starter and it will fire right up!
At 15:50 - you're forcing in the direction of the cowling - with a strong possibility of the screw giving and you possibly ramming your knuckles into the cowling. Instead - try and make a mental note to push the wrench with an open palm. It doesn't come naturally, but after a while you start seeing the places where this could occur, and you change your forcing style. It's just one of those things you pick up along the way, and I hope it helps you out :)
Man, I was on the edge of my seat, willing that engine to start. The starter seems weak, Do you still have enough fuel? I would suggest to have a camera on the gauges as well when you are cranking the engine to see what the gauges are telling...I love your dedication to this old bird. Keep the faith, you'll get it done....
starters not weak...... battery power is low.... need a 12v 200amp booster box..... its only a engine.... and iv personally witnessed 1 start an 18wheeler ...cyl1 will always fire.... not enough amps to fire the rest..... (slowed movment was cyl 1).
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Something about that click is so satisfying.
Hi I am not a mechanic, what I wouls sugest to do is get the turbo freed up and work. Because I think that these high rev engines do need that turbo to work properly to start the engine. Good luck from Canada, and keep up the very good spirit you have going. I think you're still on the right track. Jon van Beilen.
I for sure I'm liking every bit of this project. Always on the look for a new episode even though I have not any clue when it comes to mechanics. Much love all the way from Kenya 🇰🇪 🇰🇪