As a naval architect I have designed a number of aluminium boats. Electrolytic corrosion is the biggest issue on aluminium boats and early protection is way easier and cheaper than repair. The key point here is to consistantly (!!) isolate Aluminium to S/S. We have already noticed serious corrosion within one season. We usally design washers on both sides which are a bit oversized in their footprint (a bit larger than the part they isolate). We use POM (mostly known as Delrin) or similar materials in a thickness of 2-5 mm. Also make a kind of bushing around the threads of the screw with Sikaflex or similar. As others have already commented, I would also suggest finding a more professional solution for the lifting device and more urgently to weld strong hooking points on the transom. To get rid of the ratched strap which I consider being dangerous. Make sure, the area is reinforced with a girder or a set of girders behind. The transom itself will only be 4 mm and not rigid enough. But all in all I think it may not be the most modern or sophisticated boat, but I agree that it surely is sturdy and well thought out. A very capable longe range cruiser and beautifully maintained. I will love to follow your journeys. Cheers!
Tristan.... I just wanted to compliment you on your exemplary and unmatched attitude. In all the videos you've posted and shared over many years, you always exhibit an unwavering positive outlook; you are always perpetually optimistic; and you are always smiling from year to year. Whether you are aware of it or not, you're not only sharing information and teaching your audience a little bit about being a superyacht captain, you're actually teaching your audience a much more valuable lesson -- How to be happy and enjoy life, and how to make the best of every situation. So thank you for sharing your videos and positive attitude with all of us. Wishing you all the best in all your present and future endeavors.
I can only speak from an aviation point of view, but when connecting ferrous and non-ferrous materials we always used a zinc-chromate jointing compound, it would always stay "wet" and was very effective at preventing corrosion.
I'm getting a visual LOL, Waters up to the captains knees, the water is very slowly rising as he is standing at attention and saluting palm up of course.
I never realized how much attention to detail you have. That is TRULY down to the nuts and bolts of your ship. I guess that should make the owner very confident that he picked the right man to command his yacht. You seem to be treating it like it is your own, and that is in my opinion, the mark of a great person and leader.
I was all in on the tender but then saw the welding on the t-top, (I'm sure its fine but they usually look much better), the small backing plate and lack of galvanic corrosion mitigation. All of these are very easy fixes (as are the addition of additional tiedown points. Safe working load. Thanks for taking us along.
One of the best things I’ve used is Duralac it’s used on aircraft to stop corrosion between aluminum and stainless steel, also used a lot on sailboats on rigging etc it’s by far the most effective product. The t top needs some nylon washers and a tiny bit of duralac
gets strange, Solas requires 37.5% of passangers per side. so 12... with 2 life rafts per zone if under 36 passengers. since they only have 2 life rafts. now 37.5% would be 32 pass passengers for a 12 person life boat. Means it should be 32.
@@michaelsommers2356 I know right but no, they never expect 100% coverage. Possibly because they never expect ships to be filled to 100% capacity. possibly because this is "inflatable rafts" only... and they expect tenders and life boats to make up the difference. Though even then, the law is... 37.5% per side, 75% max passenger capacity requirement.
@@jenniferstewarts4851 How about a citation to the regulation, because I simply don't believe that anyone would write regulations the way you suggest. They assume worst case situations; they don't assume that it will be possible to launch tenders when the boa is sinking, and they don't assume that the boat won't be full. After all, it's Safety of Life At Sea, not Safety of Some Life at Sea, But the Rest of You Are On Your Own.
@@michaelsommers2356 its in International Conventions for the Safety of Life at Sea. SOLAS CHAPTER 3. LIFE-SAVING APPLIANCES, ETC Regulation 27 - 2 - vii The Administration may permit individual ships or classes of ships with short inter national voyage certificates to proceed on voyages in excess of 600 miles but not exceeding 1,200 miles if such ships comply with the provisions of paragraph (d) of Regulation 1 of Chapter II-l, if they carry lifeboats which provide for 75 per cent of the persons on board and otherwise comply with the provisions of this paragraph. just 1 place where it talks about that :) but yeah.. its all in there.
SWL means Safe working Load, Max number of passengers = 12. I would advise the brackets to lift the boat to be strengthened. also look at a different way of strapping the boat to lift it so you don't have to remove the canopy every time. Look into spreader bars. I'm so glad your back being a captain, I like this content
hi mate me again, galvanic corrosion occurs when the electrical conductivity has a large potential difference between the 2 metals, alloy and S/S has a fair gap between them so one will become an anode and the other a cathode if connected with an electrolyte ( salt water ), I will probably get shouted down for this by internet experts but! you have 2 options in my opinion to keep the corrosion away, 1. separate the contact of the S/S with rubber or some inert material to prevent contact, including the through hole. 2. attach a zinc anode ( just a piece of square stock and shape it slightly for more contact ) inside the cabinet out of the way and this will corrode instead of the aluminum as the potential difference is larger between it and S/S . hope this helps mate, love your work
I am from the internet and i agree, Oprion nr 1 is my first choice. Easy, but you can overlook other connection points between different metals, wich is never good.
My thought is that you could use a zinc-plated bolt instead of a SS bolt and then just replace the bolt every few years (however much is needed). Depending how wet the actual joint gets with saltwater, it may or may not corrode substantially.
@@viveksawhney5691 good idea however I dont know if the zinc plating applied to bolts is porous enough as it is hot coated and oxidizes once it cools closing and hardening the surface, but!!! soft zinc washers would do the trick but you would have to change all the washers when corroded as apposed to 1 or 2 ingots, good thinking though
SWL (Safe Working Load) is defined as the maximum safe load that the lifting equipment can lift, move, suspend, and lower down to the ground without any problem of breaking.
Tristan you're absolutely right about the contact between stainless and aluminium. You must have a separation or you will get corrosion. Also, those lifting eyes need beefing up. There will be a huge amount of strength in sheer and pull but I always think if it doesn't look right, it probably needs improving. Good finds that will increase safety and reliability.
It should be noted that the rate at which corrosion will occur in a mostly dry environment isn't terribly alarming. However, it still is a concern over time. At a minimum some paint on the two surfaces will help or any number of coatings made specifically for this application. But, a more permanent bushing/spacer/etc. made from a non-metallic material would be ideal.
With US Navy aircraft we used to use water-displacement and anti-corrosion coating on all fasteners then mix and spray on a sealant coating. Then paint if needed. Once again I really love these kinds of videos from you. It is nice to be able to go along with you on all your inspection and the thoughts you include us in. The interaction is fun.
Think you need full compliment capacity on each side according to Solas, so 12 POB in all. Nylon washers and bushes are a good idea between stainless and aluminium. The fact that the tender is mostly out of the water may have prevented major issues, but is no guarantee.
Listen to “your gut” with the amount of experience you have, you just know when somethings “not quite right”. In my experience I would want bushings on that t-top and definitely reinforce those lifting points.
Pop quiz Yachty... I'm in for it!!.. always great to see the SUPER, yacht captain ( notice that comma? It's there for a reason) thanks for sharing Tristan!
Galvanic corrosion can occur between aluminum and stainless steel, especially in the presence of salt water. However, SS is not a very reactive metal, so the occurrence will be limited. A nylon washer and silicon inside the hole would be the best protection.
If the boat sinks, The Hammar H20 hydrostatic release units fitted are designed to operate automatically at a depth of between 1.5 and 4.0 metres. The LR will then float to t he surface.
Hi Tristan! Great to see you back 'on board'!! SWL - Safe Working Load. Max crew/pass. for the liferafts = 12 as one side of the vessel may not be accessible when required to 'leave' the vessel. The stainless bolts on the tender cover supports; if it is going to spend most of its time in the cradle and in a dry environment I doubt you'll need to be too concerned with the electrolysis issue so long as the seal wheel the support poles enter the cabinet are sealed sufficiently. Keep the cabinet aired so it stays dry and I would spray some Techtyl (or something similar) to provide some moisture protection over the bolts/nuts. The lifting lugs on the main tender on the bow - I think I'd like to have some 'knees' joining that upper plate (with the pad eyes connected to) down to the side of the hull to help distribute the land. From the video it would appear that all the load would be taken on the plate at the side where it meets the hull (if that makes sense?) Just a couple of thoughts!! I note the Australian Red Ensign on the aft flag pole!! Is she registered in Australia (I'm Australian) or have I got that wrong?
I forgot, 12 persons, Safe Work Load, which should have a minimum safety factor of 1.5 which means what ever the plaque says it will break at 1.5 times the weight, i would be surprised if the factor was only 1.5, my lifting slings are a safety factor of 8, which means the slings fail at 8 times the SWL
Hi Tristan, 12 is the maximum number of people the boat can take, the other one is a backup , and S.W.L stands for safe working load , I hope thats correct !😊
@@tfmulla there is ( as long as the owner has no " money" contract it's as many as the boat can handle) in this case 12, including crew, as you must have life rafts on both sides that can handle capacity.
12 Persons Safe Working Load Yes for insulated bushes due to different metals. Dynema- check rope size weight carrying capacity against tender dead weight. Lifting eyes pads look small but probably sufficient. Possibly another corrosion area though, you could use insulating sealant between stainless and alloy. Bottle screws used to tension tender straps. Have a nice day cap'n.
For the stainless to Aluminium connection, use Duralac jointing compound. It is used extensively on yacht masts where the stainless standing rigging connects to the aluminium mast. mast.
Well, i have seen an online sales video of this ship, and there is a master bedroom for 2 people, 2 vip guest room with doublebeds and a guestroom with 2 single beds. That count’s as 8 passengers. Don’t know about the Crew facilities, but i guess there is a Crew of 4. In total 12 souls. SWL is short for Safe Working Load and is the Weight limit the crane legally can operate.
That was an interesting tour Tristan. The tender is a really cool boat. Might be a good idea to put some bushes and rubber washes between the stainless and aluminium, just to be on the safe side, though I think it would take decades for any rust to be a problem as that part of the boat is pretty dry. SWL is Safe Weight/Working Limit (depends on industry and country). As for the life boats and carrying capacity, it certainly wouldn't be 24, maybe 12 but that is a guess. Guessing it has to do with redundancy with the life boats.
Hi Tristan. In regards to galvanic corrosion, may I suggest having bushings made out of Delrin or ABS. Both should hold up in nautical usage. Delrin is machinable and has a slippery finish where as ABS you can bond epoxies to it. Depends on your present and future usages. Just a thought .
Check out tec 12 in terms of dyneema line, absolutely incredible stuff. I know flints stock it here in the uk. Would be inclined to agree that the plates under those lifting eyes want to be larger!
Another great video. I am by no means an expert on boats, but I do know a little bit about welding. I will try to say this as gently as possible. The welds on that tender look like they should be ground off and re-welded. Especially the welds on the stainless steel. At least the aluminum welds looked better, but only because they were painted over. I hope you get this address when you are having the rest of your concerns fixed.
You are correct there should be an isolation washer in between the stainless and aluminum. They make a nylon washer that would go over the bolt to isolate the two metals. It could be find by finding a cathodic protection supplier. We used them on base in Afghanistan specifically for that reason, But I forgot who our supplier was that we go them from.
Regarding the galvanic corrosion. Could defenetly have an impact, especially when stainless steel is not ventilated. Not sure how critical it is. It can hold for some time be for it get critical. However if you want to keep the yacht to Lloyd’s standard, I am sure your chief will go nuts about this
Interesting video again. Tender is great -- love the vertical built-in fenders. But raising and lowering the tender from the upper deck must be a bit hairy in a rolly anchorage with no zero-speed stabilizers on the yacht.
Nice to see the crane is build in Leeuwarden, Netherlands, and SWL stand for Safe Working Load, also know as WLL, Working Load Limit, This is the max weight the crane is designed and tested for, for everyday use, it may lift more if occasionally needed, but not reconmended
Swl = Safe Working Load . Life rafts a good question as depends what class the vessel is registered as. It difficult to assess how the vessel is classed as the boat launching davit should have a red band painted around it to signify that it can be used to launch boats without crew but as it has no band it could be said it is ok to launch boats with crew onboard if that's the case then all strops lifting points etc should be certified up to the job, well done on investigating this and the dissimilar metals issue, its the attention to detail which makes the difference nice one, keep the videos coming.......
The stainless steel bolt to alu connection can corrode the aluminium edges of the center console bolt hole. Adding a PTFE washer between the 2 materials will fix that right up. Additionally you could add a corrosion inhibiter compound like CA1010 chromate free mastinox on the shank of the bolt before install.
Hi, you need delrin washers and Tefgel....latter is really good stuff. Old rubber tubes from cars or bikes (or buy new) are good to have around. Plastic sleaves or spacers are also good to have. Galvanic will happen even with humidity. It has to be remounted.
Does the tender have a sacrificial anode connected to the aluminium structure? If it does I wouldn't worry about galvanic corrosion on the aluminium, provided the sacrificial anode has a good electrical connection and is replaced regularly.
UHMW or Nylon washers used on the Stainless bolts and nuts, will help stop the dissimilar metal corrosion. And the use of Anti-seize on the bolt threads is a must.
I'm a machinist with considerable experience building various machines, and working closely with Mechanical Engineers. My experience tells me that the backing plate on the lifting points for that boat are more than enough to lift that entire boat. Just for reference, a single 12mm machine screw with washer and nut bolting through a piece of heavy gauge sheet steel is rated for nearly 5 tons in tension. That setup you just pointed out has three stainless 8mm screws with a really large stainless backing plate bolted though, what is effectively. formed aluminum C channel. I would bet my life that one of those pad-eyes could lift the entire boat without a problem. Even if there were a problem. the aluminum C channel would show signs of deformation long before the screws or plate would ever yield. As to the strength of the shackle itself, and other associated hardware, I don't know. I would consult the technical literature that came with those pieces of hardware to know for sure. I can say that it doesn't look as strong as the mounting hardware, which is very solid.
If you want to eliminate the ratchet strap, you may want to consider a short length of tow strap (or similar, perhaps heavy line) terminated with eyes - attach the turnbuckles to the eyes and secure it down the same. That anchor point on the boat is better than any welded eyelets, after all, so you can keep using it and switch to a tensioning system you prefer.
Safe Working Load sometimes stated as the Normal Working Load is the maximum safe force that a piece of lifting equipment, lifting device or accessory can exert to lift, suspend, or lower, a given mass without fear of breaking. It is usually marked on the equipment by the manufacturer.
To prevent galvanic corrosion, yes install rubber separators, SWL is short form for "Safe Working Load" of the crane. Finally you are allowed 12 persons on board. You have one life raft on each side in case the ship keels to one side so the other is unusable. Yes I worked around boats / ships for many years.
For the bolt there are many insulation products you can put on rapidly cause in sailing yacht we have same steel bolts on aluminium masts. Most common is tefgel, duralac is a good product too but it hardens with the time. Best solution would be doing some arnite bushings. It's really hard plastic UV resistant. Enlarging about 2 mm the radius of the hole in the aluminium so you will have room for kind of a thin cylinder that insulate bolt and aluminium combined with a top large head (like a washer, all in the same piece). You can find them on market on different lengths, they are used for up/down bowthrust boxes, that usually are aluminium alloy. Ask your engineer, he would know about this stuff. Hope I can be of help, I would like being hired and learn from you :)
There is an opinion that where there is no contact with sea water, different metals can be combined, but theorists forget about condensation, various leaks and even salty air. Aluminum is an anode for all metals except zinc and magnesium, which means that when in contact with other metals, aluminum will undergo electrochemical corrosion (aka galvanic corrosion). If we add electric current to this process, then electrocorrosion will occur and it is much stronger and faster than galvanic corrosion. The solution is in zinc anodes attached to the body, which need to be regularly checked and replaced as they are quickly consumed. As for attaching equipment to an aluminum body, you need to use plastic spacers and insulation (Tef-gel - the corrosion eliminator based on Teflon). But in general, pay attention to the kingstons, stern tube of the shaft, rudder blade shafts. Do not use antifouling with copper oxide as a base. PS: Even a copper coin falling into the hold can cause significant corrosion, so on some ships the captain takes coins from passengers) - beware of getting dissimilar metals! Also be careful with shore power, which must pass on board the aluminum vessel through a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer.
Thanks for another interesting briefing, SWL = Safe Working Load Max persons on board: I don't know the answer but would guess it's only 12 as launching the one on the high side of a listing ship could be practically impossible.
Certain grades of Stainless do not react with certain aluminum alloys. I was thinking the same thing when you mentioned the stainless bolts in the anchor locker
Safe Working Limit and 12 people total. You can utilize dual eye lifting straps with a higher weight rating with the turn buckles instead of the ratchet strap and the rope. Galvanic corrosion will definitely be a problem without a proper barrier between the two different metals.
I would also want a larger reinforcement plate behind that lift point. I would keep the stainless plate you have & just add a piece of aluminum twice the size between the stainless & gunnel. As for the galvanic isolation it definitely needs something. I would to use at least 3mil LDPE on the outside of the console & a HDPE washer under a stainless washer on the inside.
Hi Tristan. About the bolt on the hull for your top. If there is a spacer between your stainless steel and aluminium and the bolt is galvanized you might be lucky. That said. Check in with an marine engineer about this. He might have better insight about saltwater and isolation. About the loadpoints. Based on what I saw without knowing the structural details of the boat it seems specifically designed to perfectly spread the load. Aluminium is a pretty soft metal which likes to become fatigued. When you enlarge the plate without knowing what you do you run a decent risk of actually damaging the vessel. During my time at uni they gave us an example in which by removing some material they made the part more reliable and fatigue resistant. Making things bigger does not always equals better. You might actually damage stuff.
I would say she is able to safely carry 12 people in total guests/crew. Life raft either side so despite side the boat is tipping your still able to access one. SWL gussing (Short weight limit) the load capacity when the boom is at its shortest ( strongest position)
Safe Working Load. That bolt might actually be aluminium. I don't know if it will react with stainless steel as opposed to just steel. You can have as many people aboard in harbor as can fit, but at sea, that thing is probably limited to ~8. Can't wait to see you go to the med.
12 persons, Safe working Load, and insulate the different metals... bi metallic corrosion. Do a tour of the whole boat in one go. Access all areas! Owner cabin, crew space, engine room etc. There's a guy called Aquaholic. He knocks it all out in about 15 mins. Check out his vids!
Hi Tristan. Put some plastic bushing between de aluminium end steal connection. It is good to have protection between the 2 divrend metals . You don't want corrosion on your new ship.
Safe working load. Turnbuckle is correct. Agreed, ideal conditions for galvanic corrosion. Regardless of the presence of the silicone, the humid environment will be enough to begin the process. Front lifting points seem a little undersized. In saying that, appears they're expecting little to no weight on the front with those 3x M6 screws holding each point on. The way the center lifting point is slung shows how large a portion of the weight is on the rear. But for the cost of a bit of flat bar in place of that small plate, I'd be replacing it.
I've dealt with aluminum vs stainless steel on an aluminum railroad track inspection car. I used nylon washers on every interface and haven't had to deal with any corrosion at all in the 18 years I've owned it.
Use gasket material under the stainless steel plates when attaching the new plates. Over size the holes for the bolts and use nylon grommets and fender washers. On the lifting points and the Teetop. This should prevent any issues.
Re the possible galvanic corrosion on the aluminum tender.. On the "custom-made yacht tender" I would call the builder and have them send a tech to the boat's current location and conduct any repairs or upgrades. A phone call takes care of that project. "SWL" - Safe Work Load. Or the safe operating load, safe working load, safe weighting load. Whichever. It's just an acronym for "hey don't try lifting that heavy thing or bad stuff will happen".
SWL = Safe Working Load … excludes the weight of gear and hooks etc. kind of interesting as this tender looks heavier than 1250 kg incl. outboard, fuel, water and safety gear?
Static weight limit? Also I’m an electrician and the stainless to aluminum connection is a point of corrosion for sure. That bolt needs a plastic bushing so the dissimilar metals to touch
The private yacht Espiritu Santo is a 31.7 meter vessel which can legally accommodate 8 passengers and 4 crew, so I'm assuming that the second life raft could be used as a back up or for provisions, or whatever.
Up to twelve people , SWL , is safe working load . my view on the alloy tender is , corrosion has not started there yet , so may be leave it ,but if it worries you , you will have to make the bolt holes bigger and put a small rubber sleave around the bolt , and use hard plastic washers on the bolt too .
Contact our friendly team today for Yacht Sales, Charter & Management: mortlock-yachts.com/contact-mortlock-yachts/
Two 12 person life rafts = 24. SWL = Safe Working Load. Yes the s/s could use some extra protection around the bolts. 🙂
@@FLGurl 0
As a naval architect I have designed a number of aluminium boats. Electrolytic corrosion is the biggest issue on aluminium boats and early protection is way easier and cheaper than repair. The key point here is to consistantly (!!) isolate Aluminium to S/S. We have already noticed serious corrosion within one season. We usally design washers on both sides which are a bit oversized in their footprint (a bit larger than the part they isolate). We use POM (mostly known as Delrin) or similar materials in a thickness of 2-5 mm. Also make a kind of bushing around the threads of the screw with Sikaflex or similar. As others have already commented, I would also suggest finding a more professional solution for the lifting device and more urgently to weld strong hooking points on the transom. To get rid of the ratched strap which I consider being dangerous. Make sure, the area is reinforced with a girder or a set of girders behind. The transom itself will only be 4 mm and not rigid enough. But all in all I think it may not be the most modern or sophisticated boat, but I agree that it surely is sturdy and well thought out. A very capable longe range cruiser and beautifully maintained. I will love to follow your journeys. Cheers!
Tristan.... I just wanted to compliment you on your exemplary and unmatched attitude. In all the videos you've posted and shared over many years, you always exhibit an unwavering positive outlook; you are always perpetually optimistic; and you are always smiling from year to year. Whether you are aware of it or not, you're not only sharing information and teaching your audience a little bit about being a superyacht captain, you're actually teaching your audience a much more valuable lesson -- How to be happy and enjoy life, and how to make the best of every situation. So thank you for sharing your videos and positive attitude with all of us. Wishing you all the best in all your present and future endeavors.
I can only speak from an aviation point of view, but when connecting ferrous and non-ferrous materials we always used a zinc-chromate jointing compound, it would always stay "wet" and was very effective at preventing corrosion.
Also on trains
13 people, because the captain goes down with the ship 😉
My vote for #1 Best Comment Of The Video Award!!!
Awesome answer.
I'm getting a visual LOL, Waters up to the captains knees, the water is very slowly rising as he is standing at attention and saluting palm up of course.
Super yacht Captain Smith. You will be missed
@@jamesfoote8916 Sorely missed!
It shows the owner takes great pride in this beautiful vessel. ⚜️ As Captain, you take great pride as well. ⚜️
I never realized how much attention to detail you have. That is TRULY down to the nuts and bolts of your ship. I guess that should make the owner very confident that he picked the right man to command his yacht. You seem to be treating it like it is your own, and that is in my opinion, the mark of a great person and leader.
12, safe working load, bushings are a good idea to isolate SS and aluminum. Lifting gear on tender shoulder be more robust….Glad to have you back!
So very happy that you have a new boat to show us! I've really missed this side of you. Well done sir!
@@WhiteWizard62 thank you Sir 😊🙏
I was all in on the tender but then saw the welding on the t-top, (I'm sure its fine but they usually look much better), the small backing plate and lack of galvanic corrosion mitigation. All of these are very easy fixes (as are the addition of additional tiedown points. Safe working load. Thanks for taking us along.
Safe Working Load
With a SWL of 1.25 Ton, that crane is possibly undersized to lift the aluminium tender.
Safe Working Load is often 5:1 breaking strength when referencing rigging or lifting.
Nice work
One of the best things I’ve used is Duralac it’s used on aircraft to stop corrosion between aluminum and stainless steel, also used a lot on sailboats on rigging etc it’s by far the most effective product. The t top needs some nylon washers and a tiny bit of duralac
A life raft on each side must accommodate 100% of the crew + 100% of passengers = 12 people in the case of the ESPERITU SANTO vessel.
gets strange, Solas requires 37.5% of passangers per side. so 12... with 2 life rafts per zone if under 36 passengers. since they only have 2 life rafts. now 37.5% would be 32 pass passengers for a 12 person life boat.
Means it should be 32.
@@jenniferstewarts4851 What are the other 25% of the passengers supposed to do? Tread water?
@@michaelsommers2356 I know right but no, they never expect 100% coverage. Possibly because they never expect ships to be filled to 100% capacity.
possibly because this is "inflatable rafts" only... and they expect tenders and life boats to make up the difference.
Though even then, the law is... 37.5% per side, 75% max passenger capacity requirement.
@@jenniferstewarts4851 How about a citation to the regulation, because I simply don't believe that anyone would write regulations the way you suggest. They assume worst case situations; they don't assume that it will be possible to launch tenders when the boa is sinking, and they don't assume that the boat won't be full. After all, it's Safety of Life At Sea, not Safety of Some Life at Sea, But the Rest of You Are On Your Own.
@@michaelsommers2356 its in International Conventions for the Safety of Life at Sea. SOLAS
CHAPTER 3. LIFE-SAVING APPLIANCES, ETC
Regulation 27 - 2 - vii
The Administration may permit individual ships or classes of ships with short inter
national voyage certificates to proceed on voyages in excess of 600 miles but not exceeding
1,200 miles if such ships comply with the provisions of paragraph (d) of Regulation 1 of
Chapter II-l, if they carry lifeboats which provide for 75 per cent of the persons on board and
otherwise comply with the provisions of this paragraph.
just 1 place where it talks about that :) but yeah.. its all in there.
So happy to see you as Captain Tristan again!
SWL means Safe working Load, Max number of passengers = 12. I would advise the brackets to lift the boat to be strengthened. also look at a different way of strapping the boat to lift it so you don't have to remove the canopy every time. Look into spreader bars. I'm so glad your back being a captain, I like this content
Great video, really interesting! Good to see safety equipment being well maintained! 👍👍👍🙂
hi mate me again, galvanic corrosion occurs when the electrical conductivity has a large potential difference between the 2 metals, alloy and S/S has a fair gap between them so one will become an anode and the other a cathode if connected with an electrolyte ( salt water ), I will probably get shouted down for this by internet experts but! you have 2 options in my opinion to keep the corrosion away, 1. separate the contact of the S/S with rubber or some inert material to prevent contact, including the through hole. 2. attach a zinc anode ( just a piece of square stock and shape it slightly for more contact ) inside the cabinet out of the way and this will corrode instead of the aluminum as the potential difference is larger between it and S/S .
hope this helps mate, love your work
I am from the internet and i agree, Oprion nr 1 is my first choice. Easy, but you can overlook other connection points between different metals, wich is never good.
My thought is that you could use a zinc-plated bolt instead of a SS bolt and then just replace the bolt every few years (however much is needed). Depending how wet the actual joint gets with saltwater, it may or may not corrode substantially.
@@viveksawhney5691 good idea however I dont know if the zinc plating applied to bolts is porous enough as it is hot coated and oxidizes once it cools closing and hardening the surface, but!!! soft zinc washers would do the trick but you would have to change all the washers when corroded as apposed to 1 or 2 ingots, good thinking though
SWL (Safe Working Load) is defined as the maximum safe load that the lifting equipment can lift, move, suspend, and lower down to the ground without any problem of breaking.
you just seem happy and excited to go back to sea. Grand!
12 obviously. Plus Captain ;-)
Tristan you're absolutely right about the contact between stainless and aluminium. You must have a separation or you will get corrosion.
Also, those lifting eyes need beefing up. There will be a huge amount of strength in sheer and pull but I always think if it doesn't look right, it probably needs improving. Good finds that will increase safety and reliability.
👨🏼🏭🧑🏻🎨😊
It should be noted that the rate at which corrosion will occur in a mostly dry environment isn't terribly alarming. However, it still is a concern over time. At a minimum some paint on the two surfaces will help or any number of coatings made specifically for this application. But, a more permanent bushing/spacer/etc. made from a non-metallic material would be ideal.
With US Navy aircraft we used to use water-displacement and anti-corrosion coating on all fasteners then mix and spray on a sealant coating. Then paint if needed.
Once again I really love these kinds of videos from you. It is nice to be able to go along with you on all your inspection and the thoughts you include us in. The interaction is fun.
SWL is safe working load
So great to see you back in the captain’s chair
Look forward to seeing this boat and your adventures
SAL safe working load. 12 person life raft can carry 18 (12+ 6 overload ). Great video.
Think you need full compliment capacity on each side according to Solas, so 12 POB in all. Nylon washers and bushes are a good idea between stainless and aluminium. The fact that the tender is mostly out of the water may have prevented major issues, but is no guarantee.
“Ooo a new SYC video. This should fun!”
*immediate pop quiz*
😮😅🤓
Listen to “your gut” with the amount of experience you have, you just know when somethings “not quite right”. In my experience I would want bushings on that t-top and definitely reinforce those lifting points.
Captain Mortlock this is the youtube I need. Great content and show today!
Pop quiz Yachty... I'm in for it!!.. always great to see the SUPER, yacht captain ( notice that comma? It's there for a reason) thanks for sharing Tristan!
good to see you back! how is the jibanator?
The yacht was build in 2002 (
Galvanic corrosion can occur between aluminum and stainless steel, especially in the presence of salt water. However, SS is not a very reactive metal, so the occurrence will be limited. A nylon washer and silicon inside the hole would be the best protection.
SWL stands for Safe Working Limit and you can have 12 on-board, if the boat lists to one side only one raft will be released.
Or load but I've always said limit,same same.
If the boat sinks, The Hammar H20 hydrostatic release units fitted are designed to operate automatically at a depth of between 1.5 and 4.0 metres. The LR will then float to t he surface.
Very nice yacht to work on,,enjoy your time with it,,thanks for sharing,,😊
Hi Tristan! Great to see you back 'on board'!! SWL - Safe Working Load. Max crew/pass. for the liferafts = 12 as one side of the vessel may not be accessible when required to 'leave' the vessel. The stainless bolts on the tender cover supports; if it is going to spend most of its time in the cradle and in a dry environment I doubt you'll need to be too concerned with the electrolysis issue so long as the seal wheel the support poles enter the cabinet are sealed sufficiently. Keep the cabinet aired so it stays dry and I would spray some Techtyl (or something similar) to provide some moisture protection over the bolts/nuts. The lifting lugs on the main tender on the bow - I think I'd like to have some 'knees' joining that upper plate (with the pad eyes connected to) down to the side of the hull to help distribute the land. From the video it would appear that all the load would be taken on the plate at the side where it meets the hull (if that makes sense?) Just a couple of thoughts!! I note the Australian Red Ensign on the aft flag pole!! Is she registered in Australia (I'm Australian) or have I got that wrong?
Thank you for your advice. Yes you're right, the vessel is Australian registered.
I forgot, 12 persons, Safe Work Load, which should have a minimum safety factor of 1.5 which means what ever the plaque says it will break at 1.5 times the weight, i would be surprised if the factor was only 1.5, my lifting slings are a safety factor of 8, which means the slings fail at 8 times the SWL
Thanks for continuing the tour! Great detail.
Great episode! Thanks for sharing! Cool crane operator controls! 👍👍
You demonstrate your knowledge and attention to detail in this tour.
Hi Tristan, 12 is the maximum number of people the boat can take, the other one is a backup , and S.W.L stands for safe working load , I hope thats correct !😊
private trip or commercial? i can't remember if there is a difference tbh
@@tfmulla there is ( as long as the owner has no " money" contract it's as many as the boat can handle) in this case 12, including crew, as you must have life rafts on both sides that can handle capacity.
thanks for the explanation, very clear and simple language.
Great video, you look like your really enjoying yourself.
Very interesting video! Thanks for posting.
12 Persons
Safe Working Load
Yes for insulated bushes due to different metals.
Dynema- check rope size weight carrying capacity against tender dead weight.
Lifting eyes pads look small but probably sufficient. Possibly another corrosion area though, you could use insulating sealant between stainless and alloy.
Bottle screws used to tension tender straps.
Have a nice day cap'n.
Very nice Bright Work !
For the stainless to Aluminium connection, use Duralac jointing compound. It is used extensively on yacht masts where the stainless standing rigging connects to the aluminium mast. mast.
Thanks for sharing
Well, i have seen an online sales video of this ship, and there is a master bedroom for 2 people, 2 vip guest room with doublebeds and a guestroom with 2 single beds. That count’s as 8 passengers. Don’t know about the Crew facilities, but i guess there is a Crew of 4.
In total 12 souls.
SWL is short for Safe Working Load and is the Weight limit the crane legally can operate.
Thanks for the tour…
That was an interesting tour Tristan. The tender is a really cool boat. Might be a good idea to put some bushes and rubber washes between the stainless and aluminium, just to be on the safe side, though I think it would take decades for any rust to be a problem as that part of the boat is pretty dry. SWL is Safe Weight/Working Limit (depends on industry and country). As for the life boats and carrying capacity, it certainly wouldn't be 24, maybe 12 but that is a guess. Guessing it has to do with redundancy with the life boats.
Hi Tristan. In regards to galvanic corrosion, may I suggest having bushings made out of Delrin or ABS. Both should hold up in nautical usage. Delrin is machinable and has a slippery finish where as ABS you can bond epoxies to it. Depends on your present and future usages. Just a thought .
Check out tec 12 in terms of dyneema line, absolutely incredible stuff. I know flints stock it here in the uk.
Would be inclined to agree that the plates under those lifting eyes want to be larger!
Another great video. I am by no means an expert on boats, but I do know a little bit about welding. I will try to say this as gently as possible. The welds on that tender look like they should be ground off and re-welded. Especially the welds on the stainless steel. At least the aluminum welds looked better, but only because they were painted over. I hope you get this address when you are having the rest of your concerns fixed.
You are correct there should be an isolation washer in between the stainless and aluminum. They make a nylon washer that would go over the bolt to isolate the two metals. It could be find by finding a cathodic protection supplier. We used them on base in Afghanistan specifically for that reason, But I forgot who our supplier was that we go them from.
Regarding the galvanic corrosion. Could defenetly have an impact, especially when stainless steel is not ventilated. Not sure how critical it is. It can hold for some time be for it get critical. However if you want to keep the yacht to Lloyd’s standard, I am sure your chief will go nuts about this
Interesting video again. Tender is great -- love the vertical built-in fenders. But raising and lowering the tender from the upper deck must be a bit hairy in a rolly anchorage with no zero-speed stabilizers on the yacht.
100 right, it’s is tricky to launch when theres a bit of a roll.
Nice to see the crane is build in Leeuwarden, Netherlands, and SWL stand for Safe Working Load, also know as WLL, Working Load Limit,
This is the max weight the crane is designed and tested for, for everyday use, it may lift more if occasionally needed, but not reconmended
Swl = Safe Working Load . Life rafts a good question as depends what class the vessel is registered as. It difficult to assess how the vessel is classed as the boat launching davit should have a red band painted around it to signify that it can be used to launch boats without crew but as it has no band it could be said it is ok to launch boats with crew onboard if that's the case then all strops lifting points etc should be certified up to the job, well done on investigating this and the dissimilar metals issue, its the attention to detail which makes the difference nice one, keep the videos coming.......
Good better best ❤
12, if the vessel is listing you can only deploy one side.
💯
Nice to see the attention to detail
The stainless steel bolt to alu connection can corrode the aluminium edges of the center console bolt hole.
Adding a PTFE washer between the 2 materials will fix that right up. Additionally you could add a corrosion inhibiter compound like CA1010 chromate free mastinox on the shank of the bolt before install.
Excellent video 🚤🛥⛵️👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
I have some thin dynema line (2.4 mm from memory) that has a breaking strain of about 1.1 tonnes, so I expect that lift line is fine.
Hi, you need delrin washers and Tefgel....latter is really good stuff. Old rubber tubes from cars or bikes (or buy new) are good to have around. Plastic sleaves or spacers are also good to have. Galvanic will happen even with humidity. It has to be remounted.
Thanks for the tips!
Does the tender have a sacrificial anode connected to the aluminium structure? If it does I wouldn't worry about galvanic corrosion on the aluminium, provided the sacrificial anode has a good electrical connection and is replaced regularly.
UHMW or Nylon washers used on the Stainless bolts and nuts, will help stop the dissimilar metal corrosion. And the use of Anti-seize on the bolt threads is a must.
I'm a machinist with considerable experience building various machines, and working closely with Mechanical Engineers. My experience tells me that the backing plate on the lifting points for that boat are more than enough to lift that entire boat. Just for reference, a single 12mm machine screw with washer and nut bolting through a piece of heavy gauge sheet steel is rated for nearly 5 tons in tension.
That setup you just pointed out has three stainless 8mm screws with a really large stainless backing plate bolted though, what is effectively. formed aluminum C channel. I would bet my life that one of those pad-eyes could lift the entire boat without a problem. Even if there were a problem. the aluminum C channel would show signs of deformation long before the screws or plate would ever yield.
As to the strength of the shackle itself, and other associated hardware, I don't know. I would consult the technical literature that came with those pieces of hardware to know for sure. I can say that it doesn't look as strong as the mounting hardware, which is very solid.
Thank you for the video!!! ❤😊 Never seen a cleaner tinder!!!😮
If you want to eliminate the ratchet strap, you may want to consider a short length of tow strap (or similar, perhaps heavy line) terminated with eyes - attach the turnbuckles to the eyes and secure it down the same. That anchor point on the boat is better than any welded eyelets, after all, so you can keep using it and switch to a tensioning system you prefer.
Safe working load
Also if it was an extending crane, the swl would be calculated with the crane fully extended, if it's retracted the swl increases.
Safe Working Load sometimes stated as the Normal Working Load is the maximum safe force that a piece of lifting equipment, lifting device or accessory can exert to lift, suspend, or lower, a given mass without fear of breaking. It is usually marked on the equipment by the manufacturer.
To prevent galvanic corrosion, yes install rubber separators, SWL is short form for "Safe Working Load" of the crane. Finally you are allowed 12 persons on board. You have one life raft on each side in case the ship keels to one side so the other is unusable. Yes I worked around boats / ships for many years.
Definitely fishing for comments/engagement on this one, but I'll bite. Can't wait to see you get this beautiful vessel underway!
For the bolt there are many insulation products you can put on rapidly cause in sailing yacht we have same steel bolts on aluminium masts. Most common is tefgel, duralac is a good product too but it hardens with the time. Best solution would be doing some arnite bushings. It's really hard plastic UV resistant. Enlarging about 2 mm the radius of the hole in the aluminium so you will have room for kind of a thin cylinder that insulate bolt and aluminium combined with a top large head (like a washer, all in the same piece). You can find them on market on different lengths, they are used for up/down bowthrust boxes, that usually are aluminium alloy. Ask your engineer, he would know about this stuff. Hope I can be of help, I would like being hired and learn from you :)
Safe working load..12..and definitely insulate !
There is an opinion that where there is no contact with sea water, different metals can be combined, but theorists forget about condensation, various leaks and even salty air.
Aluminum is an anode for all metals except zinc and magnesium, which means that when in contact with other metals, aluminum will undergo electrochemical corrosion (aka galvanic corrosion). If we add electric current to this process, then electrocorrosion will occur and it is much stronger and faster than galvanic corrosion. The solution is in zinc anodes attached to the body, which need to be regularly checked and replaced as they are quickly consumed.
As for attaching equipment to an aluminum body, you need to use plastic spacers and insulation (Tef-gel - the corrosion eliminator based on Teflon).
But in general, pay attention to the kingstons, stern tube of the shaft, rudder blade shafts. Do not use antifouling with copper oxide as a base.
PS: Even a copper coin falling into the hold can cause significant corrosion, so on some ships the captain takes coins from passengers) - beware of getting dissimilar metals!
Also be careful with shore power, which must pass on board the aluminum vessel through a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer.
A stray lead sinker can corrode an alloy boat too
Dude you know what you are talking about !!!
A very beautiful boat. Swl is Safe Working Load.
Thanks for another interesting briefing,
SWL = Safe Working Load
Max persons on board: I don't know the answer but would guess it's only 12 as launching the one on the high side of a listing ship could be practically impossible.
Certain grades of Stainless do not react with certain aluminum alloys. I was thinking the same thing when you mentioned the stainless bolts in the anchor locker
Safe Working Limit and 12 people total. You can utilize dual eye lifting straps with a higher weight rating with the turn buckles instead of the ratchet strap and the rope. Galvanic corrosion will definitely be a problem without a proper barrier between the two different metals.
I would also want a larger reinforcement plate behind that lift point. I would keep the stainless plate you have & just add a piece of aluminum twice the size between the stainless & gunnel. As for the galvanic isolation it definitely needs something. I would to use at least 3mil LDPE on the outside of the console & a HDPE washer under a stainless washer on the inside.
Hi Tristan. About the bolt on the hull for your top. If there is a spacer between your stainless steel and aluminium and the bolt is galvanized you might be lucky. That said. Check in with an marine engineer about this. He might have better insight about saltwater and isolation. About the loadpoints. Based on what I saw without knowing the structural details of the boat it seems specifically designed to perfectly spread the load. Aluminium is a pretty soft metal which likes to become fatigued. When you enlarge the plate without knowing what you do you run a decent risk of actually damaging the vessel. During my time at uni they gave us an example in which by removing some material they made the part more reliable and fatigue resistant. Making things bigger does not always equals better. You might actually damage stuff.
I would say she is able to safely carry 12 people in total guests/crew. Life raft either side so despite side the boat is tipping your still able to access one.
SWL gussing (Short weight limit) the load capacity when the boom is at its shortest ( strongest position)
What is the normal complement of crew onboard?
Safe Working Load.
That bolt might actually be aluminium.
I don't know if it will react with stainless steel as opposed to just steel.
You can have as many people aboard in harbor as can fit, but at sea, that thing is probably limited to ~8.
Can't wait to see you go to the med.
12 persons, Safe working Load, and insulate the different metals... bi metallic corrosion.
Do a tour of the whole boat in one go. Access all areas! Owner cabin, crew space, engine room etc.
There's a guy called Aquaholic. He knocks it all out in about 15 mins. Check out his vids!
You are 100% correct the tender needs attention concerning rust. The stainless and Alu MUST be isolated.
SWL = Swing Weight Limit ?
Hi Tristan. Put some plastic bushing between de aluminium end steal connection. It is good to have protection between the 2 divrend metals . You don't want corrosion on your new ship.
Safe working load.
Turnbuckle is correct.
Agreed, ideal conditions for galvanic corrosion. Regardless of the presence of the silicone, the humid environment will be enough to begin the process.
Front lifting points seem a little undersized. In saying that, appears they're expecting little to no weight on the front with those 3x M6 screws holding each point on. The way the center lifting point is slung shows how large a portion of the weight is on the rear. But for the cost of a bit of flat bar in place of that small plate, I'd be replacing it.
I've dealt with aluminum vs stainless steel on an aluminum railroad track inspection car.
I used nylon washers on every interface and haven't had to deal with any corrosion at all in the 18 years I've owned it.
Machined Teflon, makes excellent dielectric decoupling to prevent corrosion
Tristan all you need to do to the tender is put brass bushings at the connections that fix the electrolysis
It is Safe Working Load, and that means the actual max load is higher but safety coefficients are applied.
Use gasket material under the stainless steel plates when attaching the new plates. Over size the holes for the bolts and use nylon grommets and fender washers. On the lifting points and the Teetop. This should prevent any issues.
Lovely
Re the possible galvanic corrosion on the aluminum tender.. On the "custom-made yacht tender" I would call the builder and have them send a tech to the boat's current location and conduct any repairs or upgrades. A phone call takes care of that project. "SWL" - Safe Work Load. Or the safe operating load, safe working load, safe weighting load. Whichever. It's just an acronym for "hey don't try lifting that heavy thing or bad stuff will happen".
SWL=Safe working load. And yes those are turn buckles we used those a lot at Boeing.
SWL = Safe Working Load … excludes the weight of gear and hooks etc. kind of interesting as this tender looks heavier than 1250 kg incl. outboard, fuel, water and safety gear?
Let’s weigh the larger tender then…
Static weight limit? Also I’m an electrician and the stainless to aluminum connection is a point of corrosion for sure. That bolt needs a plastic bushing so the dissimilar metals to touch
The private yacht Espiritu Santo is a 31.7 meter vessel which can legally accommodate 8 passengers and 4 crew, so I'm assuming that the second life raft could be used as a back up or for provisions, or whatever.
Up to twelve people , SWL , is safe working load . my view on the alloy tender is , corrosion has not started there yet , so may be leave it ,but if it worries you , you will have to make the bolt holes bigger and put a small rubber sleave around the bolt , and use hard plastic washers on the bolt too .