I just put one together today. On the outlet side I used another T fitting and put a ball valve in one of the holes and can control the amount of air with that. I cant wait to finish installing it. Everyone says this is one of the best upgrades you can do.
Thank you for your design. I would like to offer that the first improvement that I made to my sand blasting system was to add 35 feet of copper pipe with 3 drops, all with dirt legs to collect condensation and ball valves to drain the water. Dry air is a must. The pipe was a one time expense with no need to refresh desiccant.
I am glad it works for you. What kind of media do you use? Check my other improvements, air dryer: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html and the glass protector: ua-cam.com/video/qnCbsj4JJqk/v-deo.html
@@robertdeptula2003 Do they really use just sand like the play sand that is sold at the box stores? Also can you share or update with your shop list for this build please. Thanks in advance!!
Why not install a ball valve between T and reducer to meter air instead of small pipe with bolt?? Plus you won’t have to drill and tap hole in pipe nipple. Thx great idea though!! The brass piece is called a hose barb in case anybody was curious. Great info man!
I am not so smart. Just replicated an idea I saw online. See my other video at 0 min 44 sec : ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html you will understand.
Fit a pre cooler between the air tank and compressor pump using a oil cooler I have done the mod myself and there is no water collecting in the tank and fit a dropout after the air tank that removes 99.9999% water it is a fit and forget unit no desiccant need which gets expensive to replace as it doesn't last long know. Search on u tube for air compressor pre cooler
@Robert Deptula and All - For any of the mods you are suggesting... would you please add the parts list. Robert you build is awesome but I am not sure of how long the 1 1/4" galvinized straight pipe is, where you found the metering value and I am assuming you used a tap to make the treads, and for the barb to connect the hose I am assuming you used a 1/2" MNPT barb fitting to a 5/8" barb or is it a 3/4"? thanks to all that contribute!
Go to my channel, there are four videos regarding mods to the SB. All your questions are answered in those videos or in the comments. The measurements are not critical. Some people build the valve with a one-inch pipe. I use only aluminum oxide, I don't know if other media will require a smaller or bigger pipe diameter. If you have additional questions, ask. Good luck with your project!
Such a brilliant way to make your own valve instead of the overpriced ones on the market out there just one question is do you really have to have to T piece or would it work the same with just a 90 deg angle fitting,I know you use Plug in bottom to drain the media but will the bottom flap door still open with this fitted. Cheers your a brilliant man who explains things so we all understand thank you
It will work just fine with a 90 deg fitting. The T is just to drain the media. More important than the valve is dry air. ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html It doesn't have to be this set up. There are tones of ideas about compressed air dryers. Good luck with your project!
I bought all the metering valve pipe stuff but it's 1 and a half inch parts do you think it could make it worse or better or no problem they WOULDENT take it back .just wondered what you think .its a great idea what you've done .thanks for showing this 👍 Ant from Wales UK .
Mine works fine (1 and 1/4). If it is going to work OK with 1 and 1/2 I don't know. I have found the original valve here: sandblaster-parts.com/products/metering-valves-hand-held-1?variant=1125571087 and it is 1 inch. If I would ever do it again I would go with 1 1/4 -1- 1 1/4 "T" to allow more media to be directed to the valve and then would go with 1 inch horizontal pipe. Good luck!
Check out my 3 part video on this. Big thanks to Robert for this... works like a charm Watch "Sandblasting Cabinet DIY Regulator-Part1" on UA-cam ua-cam.com/video/wWu4LoOZxeg/v-deo.html
Thank you very much Robert, I have made a exact duplicate of your media valve. I am still in the process of completing the modifications you have so far made on your blast cabinet. I am still trying to find a proper water separator , where did you buy yours from?. Thank Again Robert, you have been a great help to me!
Here is the link to the air dryer I use: www.princessauto.com/en/detail/air-dryer/A-p8055757e But you can find on YT many videos with DIY air dryers. The air dryer is a must. Did you see my other video where I show the amount of water captured? ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
Final question Robert...did you make your own rubber washers or did you purchase them? If you bought them could you say where, and what size/thickness they are? Thanks again.
I have found those in plumbing section of Home Depot. Read the comments under this video. Somebody already asked this question and another person answered providing part number.
I don't remember how much I have spent. Go to your local supplier and check prices. How much time? To be honest, it took me over a year. It was the project I didn't do in one sitting. First, I bought components, then I had to figure out how to do it in details ( you don't have to, it is ready for you). The work involved is: grinding the female threads in the bushing, drilling three holes (one in the big nipple and two in the small nipple), cutting one pipe (small nipple), making threads two times and assembling it. My estimate is that you can do it in about one to two hours. Good luck!
@@robertdeptula2003 For Mr. Hernandez, I just purchased everything for the metering valve and it cost $37. For Mr. Deptula, if the small air metering pipe is a pipe nipple, did you have a NPT tap to create the threads in the larger nipple? My SAE tap & die set doesn't have the proper size for the 1/4" pipe nipple I bought for the air meter valve.
Sorry, I missed your question. I used closes straight size I found. There was no problem because the thread goes into the body of the valve only skin deep.
Robert--If you don't mind, where did you get those big rubber washers? I've got all the other parts but I can't find those big washers. Great job, btw!
I picked it up in a plumbing section in Home Depot. I don't remember what for was it designed. But it doesn't have to be rubber. Make the hole in the bottom flap door, screw the bushing into the T through the door and measure what distance you need to cover with the washer. Take a piece of plastic (like a cutting board or similar) with the right thickness. Cut the same size hole in the plastic piece as in the flap door. Then cut hexagonal or square shape for the outside of the hole in the plastic piece. Put it all together. Good luck!
I thought that looked like some kind of plumbing washer so I looked in the plumbing section at Lowes, but couldn't find them. I don't have a Home Depot near me so I may have to go with the cutting board idea or something similar. I will figure something out. Thanks again for your help!
@@Rhosk44 I found large rubber washers at Home Depot in the plumbing section, it took some looking but here is the info...Danco, is the brand name and they are called "TUB DRAIN GASKET", SKU # 37155 88348 they were in the sink and shower parts repair section, price here in CA was $2.18 each plus tax. and the size is 2-5/8 inch O.D. x 1-11/16 inch I.D. x 3/32 inch thick according to the packaging. You might find them cheaper on Amazon or at another hardware store.
I had it working okay, but I changed some settings on the compressor and metering valve and can't remember what they were originally. Now no sand comes up all the way. Help me please.
@@ibrewster I used 3/4 copper pipe and the media flows well. Clogging not an issue. I recently did a antique Christmas tree stand the size of a small auto wheel. I’m still trying to master the proper air media mix to get maximum performance.
It actually looks, by adding up the pieces .. you'd be better off buying a new one as the price for the parts here in the UK are pretty much what you would pay for a professionally made one ...
Robert - I discovered your video from a comment you left in another fellows blast cabinet mod video with a Princess Auto unit. Great explanation and thanks very much for posting. The small little pipe with the bolt and holes in it - is this some standard part that you drilled and tapped for the bolt or did you find it somewhere ? Also - what size is the adjustment bolt and air holes that are in it ? Thanks again. I'm hoping your video will save me a bunch of money. The metering valves are way overpriced for what they are that are being sold for this purpose.
The small pipe is 1/2 inch galvanized nipple fitting (any hardware/home improvement store). Cut male threads on one side. The inside thread, that you have to make, depends on the bolt you will use (metric or imperial). Don't go crazy about the precise size of the side holes, just don't make them too tiny. You can even make one bigger hole. Some people put there a ball valve.
Robert Deptula Thanks ! I don't have a cabinet yet but I'm going to apply this metering valve as soon as I get it. One other question - your other video shows a nice compact gun.....well it's not really a gun shape - just a simple "y" shape. Can you tell me where you got this ? Cheers from the east coast 😊
@@lewiscobb7817 You can buy one on Amazon or Banggood. In my previous video, I have included a whole list of sources for the gun. See comments under the previous video.
No. There are only those two. It is not really critical how many holes there are. You just need to introduce air into the valve and be able to regulate the volume. Try with one or two, see how it works for you and you can always make some more if needed. Good luck!
It is pipe nipple. One threaded end is cut off, the second end screws into the body of the valve. Inside of the nipple is threaded for the bolt and two holes are drilled into the side of the nipple.
You are right, something must be not in order. The idea to build this valve came to me after I saw this: sandblaster-parts.com/products/metering-valves-hand-held-1?variant=1125571087 I am not so smart to figure it out all by myself.
Yes. www.homedepot.ca/search?q=Pipe%20Nipple#!q=Pipe%20Nipple Cut it on one side so you get rid of the male thread, use the other side male thread to screw it into the "fat" pipe and make female thread inside it so you can put the bolt in. Drill a hole or two on the side and you are done. The size of the nipple pipe depends on the bolt that you will use.
Świetna robota, Panie Robercie :) Właśnie startuję z moją pierwszą kabiną, i oczywiście będę ją tuningował również w oparciu o Pana wskazówki. Po co przepłacać 300 zeta za Clemco, skoro zestaw kształtek kosztuje niecałe 100 złotych. Dziękuję, właśnie zamawiam kształtki, i myślę też o osuszaczu ziębniczym. Pozdrawiam serdecznie z Polski :)
Dziękuję za mile słowa. Ten zawór to jak dzień i noc w porównaniu ze ssącą, rurą,, która była w zestawie z kabiną,. Osuszacz jest niezbędny, w przeciwnym razie wilgoć blokuje przepływ materiału ściernego (ja używam aluminum oxide, to po Polsku jest chyba korund) i trzeba przerywać robotę co minute, aby przedmuchać system. Polecam tez siatkę ze stali nierdzewnej na okienko, aby zabezpieczyć szybę. Cztery zaciski hamulcowe i robi się matówka, przez którą nic nie widać: ua-cam.com/video/qnCbsj4JJqk/v-deo.html Również pozdrawiam z Montrealu.
@@robertdeptula2003 Witam Panie Robercie :) Pozdrawiam serdecznie w ten Świąteczny Czas, i życzę dużo zdrowia w okresie zarazy :) Tak, złączki już przyjechały, zamówiłem też używany osuszacz ziębniczy z OMI, 1200 l/min. Spisałem się z kolesiem z Allegro, jest praktycznie jak nowy, a cena powaliła, 1500 zł :). Wilgoć uniemożliwi pracę, to wiem. Okienko z siatki to też dobry pomysł, zastosuję :) Chcę zastosować kulki szklane, oraz sodę, korund na ciężkie przypadki. Myślę o kompresorze bezolejowym, ok 900 l/min, 8 tłoków, ale nikt nie potrafi powiedzieć czy się sprawdzi. Moja olejówka jest 200 l, ok 600 l/min, ale już jest zużyta. Ogólnie to zajmuję się zabytkami, to takie hobby, ale widzę że Pan też jeździ dobrą, szwedzką "cegłą" :) Wszystko Panu opiszę, jak zmontuję tą instalację, temat jest trudny, ale lubię eksperymentować. Pozdrawiam serdecznie, fajnie że jesteśmy w kontakcie. Krzysztof.
Dziękuję i również pozdrawiam. Wesołych świat. Co do kompresora to nie doradzę. Mój, 60 galonów (225 litrów) i 11.5 CFM @90PSI chodzi non stop. Czasami trzeba dać mu odetchnąć. Co do samochodów, to motoryzacja kończy się dla mnie ok 1995-1998 (zależy od marki). Potem to już nie inżynierowie, ale księgowi budują samochody, a w zasadzie komputery na kółkach. Wybór padł na Volvo 940, bo to solidna konstrukcja. Latwy do naprawy i blacharka odporna w miarę na sól na drodze. W Polsce miałem BMW 520. Osiągi lepsze, ale blachy już nie te.
@@robertdeptula2003 Dziękuję za życzenia, aczkolwiek te Święta są inne, generalnie brak spotkań, wszyscy siedzimy w domkach skutkiem pandemii.... no cóż, filmy katastroficzne chyba sprowokowały rzeczywistość... W zakresie samochodów dokładnie się z Panem zgadzam, prywatnie nie interesują mnie nowe, plastikowo - elektroniczne tandety. Zawodowo muszę się nimi zajmować, ponieważ jestem rzeczoznawcą i biegłym sądowym przy SO Katowice :) Volvo z tych lat to bardzo dobre samochody. W swojej kolekcji mam E34 525 tds Touring, a ponieważ nie był nigdy eksploatowany w warunkach zimowych, to blacha jest jak dzwon. Moim ulubionym autkiem jest Bosmal 650 Cabrio (Maluch), wyjątkowo rzadki samochód. Posiadam też Beczkę kombi z 1980 r., to są praktycznie niezniszczalne samochody, o ile korozja ich nie pokona. Teraz składam VW Buggy, w kolejce czeka Vespa 1964 :), stąd też moje zainteresowanie stanowiskiem do oczyszczania. Z kompresorem to faktycznie trudny temat, bezolejowe są mega ciche, ale nieprzystosowane do pracy ciągłej. Sam nie wiem, jak nie kupię to się nie dowiem. .. Pozdrawiam serdecznie, mój mail to: koyaniskatsi1@gmail.com, może się przydać. Pochwalę się, jak zacznę składać kabinę. Pozdrawiam, Krzysztof.
I have a blister from princess auto. The issue I have is the recycled glass they recommend is not flowing properly out the nozzle. Would a setup like this illuminate that issue? Do I need to change the from glass to maybe sand?
A metering valve will improve media flow, whatever media you will use. I use aluminum oxide in my setup. Another thing is the moisture from a compressor, it will debilitate media flow.
Hi Robert...great video. Can you tell us in what position you have found the ball valve to be the most efficient? all the way open.......partially closed....half way?? I realize that it's probably trial and error but was just wondering. Also, have you or anyone that's made this build used it with glass beads, and if so, how does it work? Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thank you. And yes, all will depend on the media, pressure and nozzle size (mine is 7mm). The screw on my metering valve is in a low position allowing just a little bit of air in. So far I only worked with aluminum oxide.
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks for the prompt reply Robert...one more question. I'm having some difficulty sourcing some of the pipe parts for this build....if this was to be made out of pvc or SCH 40 pipe, apart from the media perhaps breaking down the surface a little as it travels through it should work just as well? Thanks
do you have a video of it working and demonstration ? so i dont invest in it and then find out it dont work.....if so please link me to your demo video.
Now all I get is media half way up the tube. Like I said it was working fine until I started messing with it but I don't remember what my baseline was?...
Too much air getting into the valve. It can be because of low media level in the cabinet or valve open too much or there is a leak in the system. Another option is that there is obstruction in the hose.
I tried with the valve all the way closed, added more media and still can't get it going again. Also tried with up to 100psi and still nothing. I am stumped.
Robert, What I.D. and O.D. hose name or manufacturer / supplier are you using and where did you get it as everywhere I look the tubing is REALLY STIFF and thick wall? Thank you Sir!
The clear tubing is 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD. I bought it at Canadian Tire store. The black rubber hose is cut from 1/2 ID Diablo air hose from HF: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-x-50-ft-premium-rubber-air-hose-62888.html Good luck!
@@robertdeptula2003 Thank you for the quick response on the tubing, but one other question, is the abrasive (clear tubing) braided to deal with the vacuum that moves the abrasive? Thank you again, Sir!
@@robertdeptula2003, Yes Sir, I watched it numerous times and even made a copy of your metering valve as you explained in your well done video. But was curious as to the abrasive tubing, and if it would collapse when there is suction on it, and moving the abrasive, and the gun being pointed and turned in all directions while blasting. So I thought it would be better to ask than purchase the tubing twice, just in case. And having watched your video again, and pausing it at the closeup of your metering valve mounted on your blast cabinet, it was a a clear tubing, but have seen clear tubing with a fine braid, that was almost invisible in the tubing to prevent collapse so I was unsure. And thought it better to ask. Thank you again for the extra tubing info, and again Thank you for your very descriptive and informative video on your metering valve!
@@bobanderson4249 Even when the valve is closed for the outside air the tubing is not collapsing. I run about 60 PSI on the regulator and it drops to about 45 PSI when running. I use about 3 cups of the media in the system (aluminum oxide).
Yes dry air is an absolute must. Try adding as long a run of copper tubing as part of your supply line. with a drop or two to allow the water to settle out. I add 35 feet and it did made a dramatic improvement for me.
One of the simplest fixes is to spend the forty bucks to buy a proper metering valve because after buying the plumbing fittings and figuring in your time and labor, what are you possibly gaining here besides poor performance?
@@customprc The simple solution you are talking about is for those who live in the US. I am in Canada. Many companies don't bother selling those valves outside the US. Others charge for the shipping as much as the valve itself. There is a video on YT where a guy from Australia casts the valve himself using aluminum. If we are talking about performance then this valve is a great improvement compared to the suction tube that comes with the unit. So, yes, maybe I am getting poor performance on my valve compare to the one you can purchase, but I will never know. I don't want to spend money and time to do the research.
Not the best presentation of the air valve. You focused on the obvious issues like pipe size and I'm not sure why you bothered to waste time to fill in the cap for the 1/4 oz of sand that could accumulate within? Why didn't you explain that you tapped and drilled out a 5/8" pipe to act as your air controller? where's the details regarding that? I can see it obviously but other viewers may not.
Nobody is perfect. But this is great opportunity for you. You can make and post much better video than mine. With all details and explanations. Good luck!
Thank you .I built this over the weekend and installed on a Harbor Freight blasting cabinet madel 42202.It works like a $1,000.00 blaster,Great
Very detailed with no music. I like your video. Thanks for the ideas and help.
Thanks
I just put one together today. On the outlet side I used another T fitting and put a ball valve in one of the holes and can control the amount of air with that. I cant wait to finish installing it. Everyone says this is one of the best upgrades you can do.
Post it when it is ready.
Thank you for your design. I would like to offer that the first improvement that I made to my sand blasting system was to add 35 feet of copper pipe with 3 drops, all with dirt legs to collect condensation and ball valves to drain the water. Dry air is a must. The pipe was a one time expense with no need to refresh desiccant.
0of
Very Nice! Thanks for taking the time to share your build!
You are welcome.
I made this and it works good! No more clogging and chugging.
I am glad it works for you. What kind of media do you use?
Check my other improvements, air dryer: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
and the glass protector: ua-cam.com/video/qnCbsj4JJqk/v-deo.html
I did this. Way better than the stock feed system.
No comparison
What media do you run in your cabinet?
Great video. Lots of information. Going to build my own this weekend. Thank you!
You are welcome
Great video. Love the fake media reference didn't expect that :)
Some people instead of aluminum oxide, soda, or glass beads use just sand! Fake media. ;)
@@robertdeptula2003 Do they really use just sand like the play sand that is sold at the box stores? Also can you share or update with your shop list for this build please. Thanks in advance!!
@@AgilityTodd Sand is not to be used due to health hazards.
Thank you this is the best video I've seen
You are welcome. Thank you.
Why not install a ball valve between T and reducer to meter air instead of small pipe with bolt?? Plus you won’t have to drill and tap hole in pipe nipple.
Thx great idea though!! The brass piece is called a hose barb in case anybody was curious. Great info man!
I am not so smart. Just replicated an idea I saw online. See my other video at 0 min 44 sec : ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
you will understand.
Fit a pre cooler between the air tank and compressor pump using a oil cooler I have done the mod myself and there is no water collecting in the tank and fit a dropout after the air tank that removes 99.9999% water it is a fit and forget unit no desiccant need which gets expensive to replace as it doesn't last long know.
Search on u tube for air compressor pre cooler
The oil cooler passages are small and I would think that might hurt cfm, but if it works for you, I might give it a shot
Great, can't wait to try this. Thank You
It's been a while how did the air dryer work. loved the media joke...
The air dryer works fine, but I did even more. The air compressor is now equipped with dryer, see my other video on the subject.
@@robertdeptula2003 ok thanks
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your build
@Robert Deptula and All - For any of the mods you are suggesting... would you please add the parts list. Robert you build is awesome but I am not sure of how long the 1 1/4" galvinized straight pipe is, where you found the metering value and I am assuming you used a tap to make the treads, and for the barb to connect the hose I am assuming you used a 1/2" MNPT barb fitting to a 5/8" barb or is it a 3/4"? thanks to all that contribute!
Go to my channel, there are four videos regarding mods to the SB. All your questions are answered in those videos or in the comments. The measurements are not critical. Some people build the valve with a one-inch pipe. I use only aluminum oxide, I don't know if other media will require a smaller or bigger pipe diameter. If you have additional questions, ask. Good luck with your project!
Dzięki Piotrek! Bardzo pomocne!
Such a brilliant way to make your own valve instead of the overpriced ones on the market out there just one question is do you really have to have to T piece or would it work the same with just a 90 deg angle fitting,I know you use Plug in bottom to drain the media but will the bottom flap door still open with this fitted. Cheers your a brilliant man who explains things so we all understand thank you
It will work just fine with a 90 deg fitting. The T is just to drain the media. More important than the valve is dry air. ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
It doesn't have to be this set up. There are tones of ideas about compressed air dryers. Good luck with your project!
GREAT Job Sir 5 STARS * * * * *
Thank you
Fantastic video thank you!!
Great video. Thank you for creating it.
You are welcome
Did you come up with all by yourself?
I explain it here: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
I bought all the metering valve pipe stuff but it's 1 and a half inch parts do you think it could make it worse or better or no problem they WOULDENT take it back .just wondered what you think .its a great idea what you've done .thanks for showing this 👍 Ant from Wales UK .
Mine works fine (1 and 1/4). If it is going to work OK with 1 and 1/2 I don't know. I have found the original valve here: sandblaster-parts.com/products/metering-valves-hand-held-1?variant=1125571087 and it is 1 inch. If I would ever do it again I would go with 1 1/4 -1- 1 1/4 "T" to allow more media to be directed to the valve and then would go with 1 inch horizontal pipe. Good luck!
exelente , era lo q estaba buscando, gracias.
Nie ma za co.
Nice job!
Thanks
Thank you
Thank you , very well explained
You are welcome
brilliant idea thanks for showing us .
You are welcome.
Could this unit be made out of PVC parts and be as functional and reliable? Thank you and best regards.
The answer is here: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
I like your drawing
Sorry, my CAD drawing software stopped working.
It's perfect!
@@johnr4898 Thank you!
Thanks
You are welcome
Check out my 3 part video on this. Big thanks to Robert for this... works like a charm
Watch "Sandblasting Cabinet DIY Regulator-Part1" on UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/wWu4LoOZxeg/v-deo.html
Nice job Thank you :)
Thanks. You are welcome.
Thank you very much Robert, I have made a exact duplicate of your media valve. I am still in the process of completing the modifications you have so far made on your blast cabinet. I am still trying to find a proper water separator , where did you buy yours from?. Thank Again Robert, you have been a great help to me!
Here is the link to the air dryer I use:
www.princessauto.com/en/detail/air-dryer/A-p8055757e
But you can find on YT many videos with DIY air dryers. The air dryer is a must. Did you see my other video where I show the amount of water captured? ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
Final question Robert...did you make your own rubber washers or did you purchase them? If you bought them could you say where, and what size/thickness they are? Thanks again.
I have found those in plumbing section of Home Depot. Read the comments under this video. Somebody already asked this question and another person answered providing part number.
How much did everything cost you and how much time Im thinking to make one but if too much I just buy one. Thankx for the idea mate.
I don't remember how much I have spent. Go to your local supplier and check prices.
How much time? To be honest, it took me over a year. It was the project I didn't do in one sitting. First, I bought components, then I had to figure out how to do it in details ( you don't have to, it is ready for you). The work involved is: grinding the female threads in the bushing, drilling three holes (one in the big nipple and two in the small nipple), cutting one pipe (small nipple), making threads two times and assembling it. My estimate is that you can do it in about one to two hours.
Good luck!
@@robertdeptula2003 For Mr. Hernandez, I just purchased everything for the metering valve and it cost $37. For Mr. Deptula, if the small air metering pipe is a pipe nipple, did you have a NPT tap to create the threads in the larger nipple? My SAE tap & die set doesn't have the proper size for the 1/4" pipe nipple I bought for the air meter valve.
Sorry, I missed your question. I used closes straight size I found. There was no problem because the thread goes into the body of the valve only skin deep.
Robert--If you don't mind, where did you get those big rubber washers? I've got all the other parts but I can't find those big washers. Great job, btw!
I picked it up in a plumbing section in Home Depot. I don't remember what for was it designed. But it doesn't have to be rubber. Make the hole in the bottom flap door, screw the bushing into the T through the door and measure what distance you need to cover with the washer. Take a piece of plastic (like a cutting board or similar) with the right thickness. Cut the same size hole in the plastic piece as in the flap door. Then cut hexagonal or square shape for the outside of the hole in the plastic piece. Put it all together. Good luck!
I thought that looked like some kind of plumbing washer so I looked in the plumbing section at Lowes, but couldn't find them. I don't have a Home Depot near me so I may have to go with the cutting board idea or something similar. I will figure something out. Thanks again for your help!
@@Rhosk44 I found large rubber washers at Home Depot in the plumbing section, it took some looking but here is the info...Danco, is the brand name and they are called "TUB DRAIN GASKET", SKU # 37155 88348 they were in the sink and shower parts repair section, price here in CA was $2.18 each plus tax. and the size is 2-5/8 inch O.D. x 1-11/16 inch I.D. x 3/32 inch thick according to the packaging. You might find them cheaper on Amazon or at another hardware store.
@@bobanderson4249 Thanks Bob, I'll check it out!
I had it working okay, but I changed some settings on the compressor and metering valve and can't remember what they were originally. Now no sand comes up all the way. Help me please.
I have almost the same setup and for some reason it flat out doesn't work, still trying.
"Almost" can make a big difference.
Do you think 3/4" pipe would work or do you need a larger size like yours?
I didn't try with 3/4, but I think it may work OK.
Robert Deptula I recently bought a new HF cabinet and I like your design, however I'm going to try using 3/4 copper pipe which I have quite a lot.
@@lucianprescott8357 How did the 3/4 workout for you? I watched another video on a 3/4 which many people complained didn't get good flow.
@@ibrewster I used 3/4 copper pipe and the media flows well. Clogging not an issue. I recently did a antique Christmas tree stand the size of a small auto wheel. I’m still trying to master the proper air media mix to get maximum performance.
It actually looks, by adding up the pieces .. you'd be better off buying a new one as the price for the parts here in the UK are pretty much what you would pay for a professionally made one ...
But I am not in UK, I am in Canada. When I compare local prices then I am better off making one.
@@robertdeptula2003 appreciated! 👍
good video tnx . any more info on the airdryer as i seem to have the same issues :)
My dryer is set up. Take a look at my follow up video and see how much water is trapped: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
Dry air is a must!
Robert - I discovered your video from a comment you left in another fellows blast cabinet mod video with a Princess Auto unit. Great explanation and thanks very much for posting. The small little pipe with the bolt and holes in it - is this some standard part that you drilled and tapped for the bolt or did you find it somewhere ? Also - what size is the adjustment bolt and air holes that are in it ? Thanks again. I'm hoping your video will save me a bunch of money. The metering valves are way overpriced for what they are that are being sold for this purpose.
The small pipe is 1/2 inch galvanized nipple fitting (any hardware/home improvement store). Cut male threads on one side. The inside thread, that you have to make, depends on the bolt you will use (metric or imperial). Don't go crazy about the precise size of the side holes, just don't make them too tiny. You can even make one bigger hole. Some people put there a ball valve.
Robert Deptula
Thanks ! I don't have a cabinet yet but I'm going to apply this metering valve as soon as I get it. One other question - your other video shows a nice compact gun.....well it's not really a gun shape - just a simple "y" shape. Can you tell me where you got this ?
Cheers from the east coast 😊
@@lewiscobb7817 You can buy one on Amazon or Banggood. In my previous video, I have included a whole list of sources for the gun. See comments under the previous video.
@@robertdeptula2003 just want to know if there is another hole in the back of the small pipe? Thanks
No. There are only those two. It is not really critical how many holes there are. You just need to introduce air into the valve and be able to regulate the volume. Try with one or two, see how it works for you and you can always make some more if needed. Good luck!
Maybe just use a ball valve on the top?
Yes, you can.
Brass T handle petcock valve going on mine
Hello, could you please share what is this valve with a screw made out of?
Thank you in advance!
It is pipe nipple. One threaded end is cut off, the second end screws into the body of the valve. Inside of the nipple is threaded for the bolt and two holes are drilled into the side of the nipple.
@@robertdeptula2003 Thank you! : )
i have a similar design but it doesnt work at all - i must be missing something obvious
You are right, something must be not in order. The idea to build this valve came to me after I saw this: sandblaster-parts.com/products/metering-valves-hand-held-1?variant=1125571087
I am not so smart to figure it out all by myself.
Great idea. How did you come up with the design?
I show the original design in this video: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
the airflow pipe with drilled holes, would that be in the same section as the other pipes at home depot?
Yes.
www.homedepot.ca/search?q=Pipe%20Nipple#!q=Pipe%20Nipple
Cut it on one side so you get rid of the male thread, use the other side male thread to screw it into the "fat" pipe and make female thread inside it so you can put the bolt in. Drill a hole or two on the side and you are done. The size of the nipple pipe depends on the bolt that you will use.
Great video! For the bolt, what thread is the bolt, and what size pipe nipple does it thread into?
The nipple pipe is 1/2 inch
What thread did you tap the inside of the nipple with
I use M10 1.25 bolt there.
Świetna robota, Panie Robercie :) Właśnie startuję z moją pierwszą kabiną, i oczywiście będę ją tuningował również w oparciu o Pana wskazówki. Po co przepłacać 300 zeta za Clemco, skoro zestaw kształtek kosztuje niecałe 100 złotych. Dziękuję, właśnie zamawiam kształtki, i myślę też o osuszaczu ziębniczym. Pozdrawiam serdecznie z Polski :)
Dziękuję za mile słowa.
Ten zawór to jak dzień i noc w porównaniu ze ssącą, rurą,, która była w zestawie z kabiną,. Osuszacz jest niezbędny, w przeciwnym razie wilgoć blokuje przepływ materiału ściernego (ja używam aluminum oxide, to po Polsku jest chyba korund) i trzeba przerywać robotę co minute, aby przedmuchać system. Polecam tez siatkę ze stali nierdzewnej na okienko, aby zabezpieczyć szybę. Cztery zaciski hamulcowe i robi się matówka, przez którą nic nie widać: ua-cam.com/video/qnCbsj4JJqk/v-deo.html
Również pozdrawiam z Montrealu.
@@robertdeptula2003 Witam Panie Robercie :)
Pozdrawiam serdecznie w ten Świąteczny Czas, i życzę dużo zdrowia w okresie zarazy :) Tak, złączki już przyjechały, zamówiłem też używany osuszacz ziębniczy z OMI, 1200 l/min. Spisałem się z kolesiem z Allegro, jest praktycznie jak nowy, a cena powaliła, 1500 zł :). Wilgoć uniemożliwi pracę, to wiem. Okienko z siatki to też dobry pomysł, zastosuję :) Chcę zastosować kulki szklane, oraz sodę, korund na ciężkie przypadki. Myślę o kompresorze bezolejowym, ok 900 l/min, 8 tłoków, ale nikt nie potrafi powiedzieć czy się sprawdzi. Moja olejówka jest 200 l, ok 600 l/min, ale już jest zużyta. Ogólnie to zajmuję się zabytkami, to takie hobby, ale widzę że Pan też jeździ dobrą, szwedzką "cegłą" :) Wszystko Panu opiszę, jak zmontuję tą instalację, temat jest trudny, ale lubię eksperymentować.
Pozdrawiam serdecznie, fajnie że jesteśmy w kontakcie. Krzysztof.
Dziękuję i również pozdrawiam. Wesołych świat.
Co do kompresora to nie doradzę. Mój, 60 galonów (225 litrów) i 11.5 CFM @90PSI chodzi non stop. Czasami trzeba dać mu odetchnąć.
Co do samochodów, to motoryzacja kończy się dla mnie ok 1995-1998 (zależy od marki). Potem to już nie inżynierowie, ale księgowi budują samochody, a w zasadzie komputery na kółkach. Wybór padł na Volvo 940, bo to solidna konstrukcja. Latwy do naprawy i blacharka odporna w miarę na sól na drodze. W Polsce miałem BMW 520. Osiągi lepsze, ale blachy już nie te.
@@robertdeptula2003 Dziękuję za życzenia, aczkolwiek te Święta są inne, generalnie brak spotkań, wszyscy siedzimy w domkach skutkiem pandemii.... no cóż, filmy katastroficzne chyba sprowokowały rzeczywistość... W zakresie samochodów dokładnie się z Panem zgadzam, prywatnie nie interesują mnie nowe, plastikowo - elektroniczne tandety. Zawodowo muszę się nimi zajmować, ponieważ jestem rzeczoznawcą i biegłym sądowym przy SO Katowice :) Volvo z tych lat to bardzo dobre samochody. W swojej kolekcji mam E34 525 tds Touring, a ponieważ nie był nigdy eksploatowany w warunkach zimowych, to blacha jest jak dzwon. Moim ulubionym autkiem jest Bosmal 650 Cabrio (Maluch), wyjątkowo rzadki samochód. Posiadam też Beczkę kombi z 1980 r., to są praktycznie niezniszczalne samochody, o ile korozja ich nie pokona. Teraz składam VW Buggy, w kolejce czeka Vespa 1964 :), stąd też moje zainteresowanie stanowiskiem do oczyszczania. Z kompresorem to faktycznie trudny temat, bezolejowe są mega ciche, ale nieprzystosowane do pracy ciągłej. Sam nie wiem, jak nie kupię to się nie dowiem. .. Pozdrawiam serdecznie, mój mail to: koyaniskatsi1@gmail.com, może się przydać. Pochwalę się, jak zacznę składać kabinę. Pozdrawiam, Krzysztof.
Dzień dobry. Jak postępy z projektem kabiny?
I have a blister from princess auto. The issue I have is the recycled glass they recommend is not flowing properly out the nozzle. Would a setup like this illuminate that issue? Do I need to change the from glass to maybe sand?
A metering valve will improve media flow, whatever media you will use. I use aluminum oxide in my setup. Another thing is the moisture from a compressor, it will debilitate media flow.
You should never ever under any circumstances use sand
Hi Robert...great video. Can you tell us in what position you have found the ball valve to be the most efficient? all the way open.......partially closed....half way?? I realize that it's probably trial and error but was just wondering. Also, have you or anyone that's made this build used it with glass beads, and if so, how does it work?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thank you. And yes, all will depend on the media, pressure and nozzle size (mine is 7mm). The screw on my metering valve is in a low position allowing just a little bit of air in. So far I only worked with aluminum oxide.
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks for the prompt reply Robert...one more question. I'm having some difficulty sourcing some of the pipe parts for this build....if this was to be made out of pvc or SCH 40 pipe, apart from the media perhaps breaking down the surface a little as it travels through it should work just as well? Thanks
See my other video, the answer is there: ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
I'm wondering if one could be made from pvc pipe.
I'm thinking that might degrade pretty quickly from the constant flow of the abrasixes.
do you have a video of it working and demonstration ? so i dont invest in it and then find out it dont work.....if so please link me to your demo video.
ua-cam.com/video/VaUjWVKnA00/v-deo.html
Now all I get is media half way up the tube. Like I said it was working fine until I started messing with it but I don't remember what my baseline was?...
Too much air getting into the valve. It can be because of low media level in the cabinet or valve open too much or there is a leak in the system. Another option is that there is obstruction in the hose.
I tried with the valve all the way closed, added more media and still can't get it going again. Also tried with up to 100psi and still nothing. I am stumped.
Still only getting media half way up the tube.
@@rgauder What did you changed on the compressor?
I tried upping the pressure to 100psi from 50psi
Robert, What I.D. and O.D. hose name or manufacturer / supplier are you using and where did you get it as everywhere I look the tubing is REALLY STIFF and thick wall? Thank you Sir!
The clear tubing is 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD. I bought it at Canadian Tire store. The black rubber hose is cut from 1/2 ID Diablo air hose from HF: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-x-50-ft-premium-rubber-air-hose-62888.html
Good luck!
@@robertdeptula2003 Thank you for the quick response on the tubing, but one other question, is the abrasive (clear tubing) braided to deal with the vacuum that moves the abrasive? Thank you again, Sir!
No, it is not. Did you see the whole set up? ua-cam.com/video/wFDn6lkKhNw/v-deo.html
@@robertdeptula2003, Yes Sir, I watched it numerous times and even made a copy of your metering valve as you explained in your well done video. But was curious as to the abrasive tubing, and if it would collapse when there is suction on it, and moving the abrasive, and the gun being pointed and turned in all directions while blasting. So I thought it would be better to ask than purchase the tubing twice, just in case. And having watched your video again, and pausing it at the closeup of your metering valve mounted on your blast cabinet, it was a a clear tubing, but have seen clear tubing with a fine braid, that was almost invisible in the tubing to prevent collapse so I was unsure. And thought it better to ask. Thank you again for the extra tubing info, and again Thank you for your very descriptive and informative video on your metering valve!
@@bobanderson4249 Even when the valve is closed for the outside air the tubing is not collapsing. I run about 60 PSI on the regulator and it drops to about 45 PSI when running. I use about 3 cups of the media in the system (aluminum oxide).
HA HA HA I got it
I've made a valve similar to this but I'm getting inconstant media flow, did you have this problem or know how solve?
You need dry air in your system. In the video, I show the air dryer that I will use.
Yes dry air is an absolute must. Try adding as long a run of copper tubing as part of your supply line. with a drop or two to allow the water to settle out. I add 35 feet and it did made a dramatic improvement for me.
One of the simplest fixes is to spend the forty bucks to buy a proper metering valve because after buying the plumbing fittings and figuring in your time and labor, what are you possibly gaining here besides poor performance?
@@customprc The simple solution you are talking about is for those who live in the US. I am in Canada. Many companies don't bother selling those valves outside the US. Others charge for the shipping as much as the valve itself. There is a video on YT where a guy from Australia casts the valve himself using aluminum.
If we are talking about performance then this valve is a great improvement compared to the suction tube that comes with the unit. So, yes, maybe I am getting poor performance on my valve compare to the one you can purchase, but I will never know. I don't want to spend money and time to do the research.
Do you have a parts list?
Unfortunately I don't. Sorry.
what is the small pipe that you used
It is 1/2 inch nipple fitting. The male thread portion on one side is cut off, the inside is threaded for the bolt.
Can I get you to email me that drawing with the sizes, I can build it
Robert, what size nipple is that , that you screwed into at the top with the bolt ? Thank you
1/2 inch in my case, but you can use other size that will accommodate the bolt that will be used.
Not the best presentation of the air valve. You focused on the obvious issues like pipe size and I'm not sure why you bothered to waste time to fill in the cap for the 1/4 oz of sand that could accumulate within? Why didn't you explain that you tapped and drilled out a 5/8" pipe to act as your air controller? where's the details regarding that? I can see it obviously but other viewers may not.
Nobody is perfect. But this is great opportunity for you. You can make and post much better video than mine. With all details and explanations. Good luck!