SAND BLASTING CABINET MODS (Tutorial)
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2024
- Hey Guys,
Here is our complete MOD tutorial video on the Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet. Let us know what you think of how we put this together and how things turned out?
Enjoy the Video!!!
Cheers!
Chapters:
0:00:00 Intro
0:02:08 Tape Mod
0:02:49 Window/Glass Mod
0:10:28 Metering Valve Mod
0:17:50 Pressure Regulator Mounting
0:21:31 Hose Installations
0:27:51 Hose Walkthrough
0:28:28 Cover Original Air Inlet
0:28:41 Adding Casters and Base Frame
0:44:37 Vacuum/Dust Deputy Mod
0:51:08 Light/Outlet Box Mod
0:59:43 Final Thoughts
See this Blast Cabinet in action - • BMW E21 Rear Different...
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Thanks again for hanging out!
Below is the complete parts list for all the Blast Cabinet MODS:
Harbor Freight
Blast Cabinet - 189.99 (minus 25% off Coupon = $142.49)
bit.ly/2TYDygD
3/8 " Air Regulator - $13.97
bit.ly/3E1cy3T
Pistol Grip Blow Gun - $3.99
bit.ly/3k42wG2
5 Gal Bucket - $3.25
bit.ly/36qH4mT
5 Gal Bucket Lid - $1.99
bit.ly/2VzACb3
Amazon
Brass T-Barb 3/8" (3-Pack) - $7.39
amzn.to/3jRMMZa
M4 Knurled thumb nuts (30 Pack) - $6.99
amzn.to/3Iiy5rp
Vetco Electronics
1/2" Plastic Button Hole Plug - $0.25
bit.ly/3EoDaML
5/8" Plastic Button Hole Plug - $0.30
bit.ly/3jYjpnU
Home Depot
5/8" Neoprene Grommet - $1.47
thd.co/36sn2YX
3/4" Neoprene Grommet - (2) $3.02
thd.co/2UCAZRE
15 Amp Outlet - $2.35
thd.co/3xx9uaw
15 Amp Single-Pole Toggle Light Switch - $0.73
thd.co/2Vue6Ae
Double Gang Box, Metal - $5.98
thd.co/2UHU6te
9 Ft. Replacement Cord, Black - $14.47
thd.co/3ASncHh
Wire Nuts, 30 Pack - $2.97
thd.co/36qQqii
Wall Plate - $2.14
thd.co/36rbN39
3/8" Clamp Connector - $2.15
thd.co/2Vw4wgf
1" Conduit Connector Hub - $6.96
thd.co/3hyCDNb
1 x 2" Black Iron Nipple - $2.12
thd.co/2UzgOE2
1" x 1"x 3/4" Black Iron Tee - $5.77
thd.co/3hWtnRP
1" Plug, Black Iron - $2.47
thd.co/3hZjYJc
3/4" x 3" Black Iron Nipple - $1.98
thd.co/3r2zQyO
3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Black Iron Tee - $4.42
thd.co/3r3QT3i
1/2" x 1/4" Hex Bushing - $2.12
thd.co/3hu8f6v
5/8" x 3/4" MIP Hose Barb - $6.52
thd.co/36rbHsj
1/4 in. Full Port Ball Valve - $8.38
thd.co/3r02IYq
3/8"x1/4 MIP Air Hose Barb - (2) $7.06
thd.co/3xAKQWx
2" 45 Degree ABS - $3.98
thd.co/3hCvrjb
2" 90 Degree Elbow ABS - (2) $4.62
thd.co/3xxScKD
2" x 10' ABS Pipe - $11.96
thd.co/3k9lmM2
2" Galvanized Pipe Hanger Strap - $0.64
thd.co/3e2Sem0
2" Rubber Locking Swivel Caster Plate - (2) $9.68
thd.co/3r0OruB
2" Rubber Rigid Caster Plate - (2) $7.84
thd.co/3yPeO9F
5/16" Zinc Nut, Washer, Lock Washer Kit - $2.75
thd.co/2VlXvhO
5/16" x 3/4" Stainless Steel Bolt - (2) $5.68
thd.co/3r0bZ2P
1/4" x 3/4" Stainless Steel Bolt - (3) $6.06
thd.co/3e5REUB
1/4" Zinc Nut, Washer, Lock Washer Kit - (2) $5.30
thd.co/3AQah8M
1/4" Thick 12"x24" Expanded Metal Sheet - $11.98
thd.co/2TPt6IB
Rustoleum Gloss Cherry Red Spray Paint - $4.58
thd.co/36pvDvE
Metal Tape 30' - $4.98
thd.co/3k2OXGT
LED Light Kit -
Retro Strip 2Ft 64-Watt Equivalent Integrated LED Magnetic Silver Retrofit Kit
thd.co/4bzqmRy
Lowes
M4-.70x25mm pack of 12 - $1.97
low.es/36vblRf
24"x36" Glass Panel, 3 pieces - $16.68
low.es/3hxmast
1" x 36" 1/8" thick Steel Flat Bar - $5.98
low.es/3k7sMj4
1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 72" 1/8" thick Steel Angle Iron - (2) $39.96
low.es/3hW7RwC
2' x 2' Sanded Plywood - $9.18
low.es/3yLKug8
Hose-Man
5/8"x 4' Braided Vinyl Hose - $6.00
3/8" x 2' 200 psi Air hose - $3.00
hoseman.com
#harborfrieght #blastcabinet #mods
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BradleysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BradleysGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BradleysGarage. - Авто та транспорт
![DIY - SandBlasting Cabinet [ FULL Process ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cydrlW58yCE/mqdefault.jpg)
Great news, we have located a new LED Retrofit Light Kit supplier for the Blast Cabinet and Toolbox mod videos. These are available from Home Depot and will be shipped FREE to your door. They also include the covers so the LED's will be protected in the blast cabinet environment.
Have fun on your builds and feel free to reach out with any questions or concerns.
Blast Cabinet LED Strips
Dual 2 ft. 22.62 in. 34-Watt LED White Strip Light Fixture Magnetic Linear LED Retrofit Kit 4000K
thd.co/41fQEnS
Blast Cabinet video - ua-cam.com/video/BiuGZusZYts/v-deo.html
Toolbox LED Strips
Dual 4 ft. 44.72 in. 64-Watt LED White Strip Magnetic Linear LED Retrofit Kit 4000K
thd.co/3TgERE2
Toolbox video - ua-cam.com/video/A9DCoLNLjS4/v-deo.html
Happy Modding, Cheers!
Hey man you have about $35 of wasted parts hanging from underneath that thing it's not clean whatsoever. The door swings open to empty it so why would you need another tea and a plug in the bottom of it which is a waste and the rain hub which is a $20 part a waste only to have to buy the extra nipple come on man clean it up spend your money on media instead of that crap. Other than that 👍
@@Brrrap743 Thanks for the comments. We chose to add the plug in the bottom to drain out 90% of the media since it makes less of a mess than just flinging the door open with a full tank. The 1" watertight conduit is about $7 currently which is overkill but we felt it was the cleanest method. You can easily just add a nipple and an elbow and let the door fly open. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I think all the mods are great. I got the exact same cabinet and I will be making all of the mods to mine. Thanks guys!
Congrats on your purchase Bill. We are confident you will enjoy all the upgrades to the blast cabinet. Let us know how your project goes, Cheers!
Dang , forgot about the discount I paid full price lol no worries .
I just bought one of these cabinets to use on our channel doing some cerakote projects. Like you, I believe the latest generation of these cabinets are a step above the older ones. That being said, I chose not to use caulk as well but still wanted the other mods i've seen on multiple channels. None of them however come close to yours. Your instruction, common sense and step by step method along with your finely detailed craftsmanship make this, BY FAR the best blast cabinet modification video on UA-cam. Outstanding job my man!
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Had a great time doing this upgrade with my son. We really wanted to take all the ideas out there along with ones we thought would be good and create this video. It was a bit of work to get everything sorted but the video makes it look pretty easy. Glad you enjoyed it and I hope it gave you a couple ideas for your cabinet. Cheers!
Ditto! Ill be making all these mods to mines as well.
Thanks for the comments Ronell, good luck on your blast cabinet upgrades. Cheers!
Best mod video I’ve ever seen for this unit. Phenomenal. Thank you for putting the easy links to each mod in the comment box. This is a game changing video.
Thanks for the feedback Matthew, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully this provides some encouragement for you on your blast cabinet. Have fun on your projects, Cheers!
Wow! Nice. Turned a simple cabinet in to what looks and feels like a high end unit. Thanks
Hey Paul, appreciate the feedback. Everything is working pretty well with the cabinet upgrades. I think the only issue we had was trying to run walnut shells through the factory gun. All of the other media haven't given us any issues.
Purchased a Skat-Trak gun from TP tools to give that a try to see if it functions better than the Harbor Freight one with walnut shells.
Cheers!
Even with a vacuum and the weather stripping, I was getting a ton of media seeping out. Caulking, for me, was absolutely necessary. Great job on all other aspects!
Thanks for the comments Antonio. We agree 100%, while the foam tape does a good job, after using the blast cabinet for the past few months, media still finds a way through the cracks.
If you are just building one from scratch, it's definitely a good idea to seal all the joints with a Polyurethane Sealant. Appreciate the feedback, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
I'd love to hear a year in review for this project! This is my favorite set of mods.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. We will post an update on the blast cabinet and what we have learned over the past 7 months soon. Still have a couple more tweaks to finalize beforehand.
Stay tuned, Cheers!
The light upgrade was a much needed upgrade- thanks for sharing this!
Thanks for the comments Mark, glad you enjoyed the video. We are happy you were able to get the LED kit before they sold out. Appreciate you hanging out on the channel, Cheers!
I done mods to my blaster a few years back, and I used the iron fittings, after using for a while moisture started stopping up my syphon system. I replaced the metal fittings with pvc and haven't had a stop up yet. My hoses are routed a little different than your hoses. I like the regulator position, mine is mounted on the back leg, and for the light mod, I used the old mason jar trick, and framed the bottom with casters just like you did. Awesome job on your mods.
Hey Rick, thanks for sharing your ideas, it's always good to hear what people have done.
We considered the PVC option for the metering valve but decided to go with cast iron since we are constantly changing media and have to unhook the hose and clean out the trap door, we figured it would hold up against the abuse better.
We are very happy with the LED light mod, with that many lumens we can see every hidden aspect of the part being blasted.
Have fun with your cabinet, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
When I did my cabinet lighting four years ago, I used mini floods, one on each side. Works great! But your LED idea is MUCH brighter and a cleaner install. Guess what upgrade I'm going to re-do! 🙂 I also did the lower angle iron braces and casters, but I had used galvanized, pre-drilled angle iron used for mounting brackets, braces, etc., and did not do the lower shelf. After the LED upgrade, I'll do the lower shelf, and replace my sketchy vacuum and feed setups with yours - MUCH cleaner! It's been a few years since I was researching and upgrading my cabinet, and just stumbled on your project, totally SANO! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for sharing your blast cabinet adventures. We looked at a bunch of ideas before settling on which ones made the most sense for ours.
The LED's are amazing, crazy amount of lumens and the simplest install you could ask for.
The shelf on the bottom is perfect for storing the media. At first we were just worried about the vacuum bucket but then though, why not cover the entire thing.
Have fun with your future upgrades, glad we could inspire you. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
A lot of cool mods. I wish I would’ve seen this video when I bought mine two years ago. It would be a lot easier to install them when it was new and clean. I will more than likely modify the glass, foam seal and retaining ring and plug those indents on the door and maybe even add the LED lights. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Scott, thanks for stopping by and checking out the video, appreciate the feedback.
I think the LED upgrade is by far the best one since having the ability to see clearly what you are working on is paramount.
The glass upgrade also helps with this as well since that plastic film is not very clear and is actually impeding your vision.
Good luck on your future upgrades, Cheers!
This video is so very thorough and well-made: Thank you!
Thanks Dwayne, glad you enjoyed the video. We hope it inspired you to mod your own blast cabinet. Cheers!
Excellent video. I brought the exact same unit here is Australia and was greatly disappointed in the way it worked. I am now looking forward to doing these modifications. Thanks and much appreciated your time and effort.
Thanks Laurie, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully it will help you get your cabinet upgraded and working great. Good luck with your project, Cheers!
Great video explaining the modifications. I just bought the HF cabinet. I will be doing these upgrades. Thanks!!!!
Awesome to hear! Glad our video will help you complete your modifications for your HF cabinet. Just a heads up, I know we mentioned to not worry about caulking the seams, but after months of use we ended up going back and filling up the cracks just to prevent small bits of media eventually seeping through. Other than that this thing really does come alive once these mods are added. Cheers!
This is awesome !!! Great ideas !!! I have been using a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet in my shop since 2009 rebuilding aviation fuel nozzles and pumps. I have had the typical issues with siphon tube clogging and other issues, I have just dealt with it all. I am gonna give my blast cabinet an overhaul and upgrade !!! Thank you for this informative video.
Glad you enjoyed the video, let us know how your blast cabinet upgrades go. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Good presentation,,,really clear and concise …Harbor Freight came out ahead on this one…thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video Norman. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
I bought one of these cabinets, and did some upgrades also . I love it. The cabinet is heavy duty, so making the best upgrades are very well worth it!!!
Thanks for watching, Cheers!
Okay a real man build it himself
@@janusr3074 Show us yours Mr. Man.
I want to thank you for the hard work you put into the making this video. It is the most comprehensive of it's kind on You-Tube. My "Modzilla" HF cabinet is done thanks to you. Turned out super clean and I love the LED lighting. I also added a diy metering valve and Eastwood pedal. All hoses were 1/2". Keep up the good work.
Bryan
Thanks for the update Bryan on your cabinet. Glad our video helped motivate you to create a custom blast cabinet of your own. We are looking into getting a pedal setup as well since the hand does get tired on those long blast projects. Appreciate the feedback, have fun blasting. Cheers!
The Eastwood pedal works fine with a HarborFreight?
Great job thanks for not cutting the video off every few minutes to put another part off a week later, all in one, great attention to detail and nice job, I really enjoyed your video.
Thanks for the kind words Dave, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
What an enjoyable walk through video. Thanks for making
Appreciate the kind words Paul, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@Bradleys Garage finally got a blast cabinet today and came back to watch again. Will do it to my one. Thanks again
That's great Paul, good luck on your project. Let us know if you have any questions during the build. Cheers!
Going to get a cabinet today for Cerakote. Will do most of the mods you describe. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the comments Jeffrey, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your project. Cheers!
By far this is the best video on the harbor freight cabinet ,great job !!!
Thanks for the kind words Greg, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, hope it helps you with your project. Cheers!
This is a great video! Ease to follow. Thank you
Thanks for the comments John, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Great job! The only suggestion I would have is, power your light switch from the top of your gfci outlet. This way your light circuit is gfci protected also.
Thanks for the comments. Appreciate the advice on the electrical stuff, that's the one area I have never really felt 100% about. More comfortable with all the mechanical stuff. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
You also made a possible fatal error of not grounding your metal box you should have a green screw with a wire to the ground and all the grounds should be hooked together
I agree, I'm not the best when it comes to electrical stuff. Better with the mechanical bits.
Will have to look into your suggestion, Cheers!
great video. just came across a HF cabinet that needs some attention. perfect timing.
Congrats on finding a good used Harbor Freight cabinet. That alone will save you hours of assembly work! Now you can focus all that time on making it the best it can be.
Good luck on doing all the mods on your box. Feel free to let us know how everything goes.
Cheers!
Buying this cabinet next week so I’ll definitely be back to watch again. Well done video.
Thanks for the comments, glad to here you are taking the plunge on picking up a blast cabinet. You might want to keep an eye out for a New Years deal, I've seen it go for $199 a few months ago. HF is getting pretty stingy though on discounting this blast cabinet.
Good luck on your future upgrades, feel free to check back in and let us know how your build goes. Cheers!
Thanks for the heads up on the deals. I’ll hold off to see if they discount it. I’m planning on trying their 20” drill press too and it seems like they never go on sale either. Anyhow, great channel, great videos and again, I appreciate the information. Take care!
Great, very well explained video! I'm looking forward into acquiring one just can't decide if 220L is enough or do i need one size bigger of 350 Liters. Additionally, side or top loaders would be better? And the last but the most important question - was there any part that would not fit to the box and you repeatedly tried and failed again?
Glad you enjoyed the video. We haven't had any issues with the side loader. I know some people have converted the top to open but it hasn't been necessary for any projects we have worked on.
For larger items we just use a standard media blaster.
It comes down to the space you have in your garage and how much you want to spend. Good luck with your projects, Cheers!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Cheers!
Cool. I used a shop cart with locking wheels for my cabinet, also gave storage for equipment.
Thanks Joe, great idea with the shop cart. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I bought one of these and put in new heavy-duty gloves, a ball valve and dryer for the air and took out the plastic window and put in tempered glass and a high-grade nozzle and hose. Works great. I use 5-gallon buckets for different media and cut a hole in one top, i got a large funnel with a screen , put in the hole of the bucket and dump the media into it, you can then put in a different media in about 1 minute.
Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing your ideas. Cheers!
You've earned a subscribe for this one. I'll likely follow it exactly as you've done. Nice work!
Appreciate the feedback Level 7, glad you enjoyed the video. Let us know if you have any questions when you start your blast cabinet upgrades. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Exactly what I needed to know, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video, hope it helps with your project, Cheers!
I followed your setup and only changed a few things like welding the base together. When I do my motorcycle build tutorial I’ll link this video in there. Thank you so much for this step by step!
Hey Jacob, thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Glad the video helped you with your project. It sounds like you got all the right stuff ready to go.
Let us know how your motorcycle build goes. Cheers!
Just finished all your mods
Thank you for the fantastic video
The cabinet is so much better
Congrats Patrick, glad the video helped you with your project. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
I'm just starting to make these mods to a cabinet I picked up this weekend, and was wondering one thing about the metering tube. If the purpose is to mix the media and air, ideally it seems like the valve should be closer to the tee to give it more time to mix. It would take another 2" nipple and a 3/4" coupler to change it. I don't have a degree in fluid dynamics (although I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express), so I could be completely off base. Any thoughts on this?
Hey JC, thanks for the question. We just modeled the dimensions after the manufactured ones they sell for $100. There may be a better design but this is what we came up with after looking at all the options. We also do not have a degree in Fluid Dynamics as we have only stayed at a Courtyard Marriott.
Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions-
ibb.co/4Vqg5kM
Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, Cheers!
Nice work man! very tidy. I just picked up the canadian version but will definately be following some of your upgrades. cheers
Thanks for the comments Steve, glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to let us know how the upgrades go on your blast cabinet. Cheers!
Excellent info. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comments Restorology, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your future projects, Cheers!
This is the absolute best "how to" video I've come across showing how to modify this cabinet. Thanks for showing every detail. New subscriber!
Hey Mark, thanks for kind words, appreciate the feedback and the sub. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
Great video, I like your spin on the mods: Using the electrical conduit fitting on the bottom of the trapdoor is creative.
On the base frame, it seem to make sense to put the angle frame on the outside of the legs? That way, the weight of the cabinet bears on the bottom horizontal flat of the angle, not putting the bolts stressed in shear.
Also, safety note: Try to cover as much of your grinding/wire wheels as possible on a bench grinder with a guard, and use a tool rest. Working with rotating machinery (like grinders and drills) while wearing gloves is also not recommended. Getting a workpiece jammed in a wire wheel flings it across the shop. Ask my motorcycle tank how I know. 😐Wire breaking off a wheel can find it's way into an eye.🙈 I couldn't see, but I'm sure you were wearing safety eyewear.🤓 I saw them on your forehead earlier.
Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback Phillip. When we were sourcing parts for the blast cabinet we came across that conduit fitting and thought it would work out great. Turns out it was a nice addition to the build.
We didn't think about the distribution of weight on each leg but you make a valid point about putting them on the outside. Our goal was to make it easy for anyone with a drill to add the casters. If you have the option, welding them in place would be the best but we were trying to keep costs down.
We do have an old bench grinder so the plastic shield is long gone from it. That being said we definitely are wearing safety glasses and I do use leather gloves just in case I get a little close. For all the smaller parts we typically use Vise-Grip pliers to hold those pieces.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Love the mods, nice work, thanks for the video.
Appreciate the feedback Ian, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Great Video, you did a good job of showing and explaining the mods. I do have a few questions about the lights you put in. How are they holding up? Also it looks like the plastic light covers are open on the ends. Do they fill up with media? Id be very interested in knowing as those lights look like a very good option as long as they hold up for quite a while.
Hey Justin, thanks for your comments. We have been very happy with the LED Lights and the acrylic covers for them. The quality has been great as we have had ZERO issues with them.
We did put a small piece of tape on each end to prevent blast media from getting inside there so that is something that needs to be done for sure. Otherwise it will start blocking the light output and they will need to be dumped out.
You can save 5% on your total order from ProLighting.com by using our discount code - BradleysGarage5 @ checkout.
bit.ly/2W1uCYR
Cheers!
Stopping by to show you some support man. Good content. Keep it up
Thanks for the kind words Steve, appreciate you hanging out. Cheers!
building this in my garage right now, just have to finish the dust bucket, cant wait to give it a try
Hey Eric, glad to hear you were inspired by the video. I am confident you will be pleased with the results once you get it wrapped up. Have fun with your "modded" blast cabinet, Cheers!
Just watched the other vid , spot on !!, Ya gonna do vid of unit operating, waiting for my light to arrive.
Hey Michael,
We posted another video with a sneak peak at a little clean up using the blast cabinet.
It's at the 8:28 timestamp - ua-cam.com/video/qwlcCnwFT0o/v-deo.html
Let us know your thoughts.
Cool stuff, good work. Couple thoughts tho: I've never seen the grommet installed on the hose first/though hole second before, usually done grommet in hole slide hose through. On the PVC to bucket connection I'd use a short piece through lid with a coupler glued to either side capturing the lid in between.
Thanks for the suggestions Farnhaan. We have actually switched over to a Spigot/Hub Flush bushing for inside the lid. After many uses the silicon just did not hold up on the pipe.
Here is what we used -
thd.co/3LbEt2L
Pictures of it installed -
ibb.co/zxVsnjS
ibb.co/FmH4bGj
In regards to the grommet, it was a super tight fit so we lubed it up with silicon spray first which made it easier to install. But typically it would be done the way you mentioned.
Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Awesome video, we have had constant pickup problems when using iron silicate media, I think you mod should solve our problems. 👍👍
Hey Ryan, we have had good success with aluminum oxide and glass bead. The only one that has given us trouble thus far with the setup in the video are walnut shells 12/20. They seem to be a little too large and clog the tip of the factory HF gun. We will be trying a Skat-Trak gun for our next walnut shell job.
LINK:
www.tptools.com/S-35-Series-Trigger-Operated-Power-Gun,8592.html?b=d*8026
Cheers!
Nice video, you could also use an o-ring to prefend a bold falling through while mounting the glass...
Thanks for the tip, I think the o-ring trick would definitely work to hold the bolt. I just decided to add the extra nut as to not have to every worry about it.
Then I can easily unscrew the thumb nuts each time I need to deal out the glass.
Appreciate the comments, Cheers!
Thank you for one of the most detailed step-by-step tutorials I have ever watched. Great job! Thankfully I found this before I dropped the hammer on a much more expensive unit. I just picked up my HF blast cabinet this morning and ready to start working through the parts list. A few questions before I get started. Now that you have had many hours on the box, are there any "If I had it to do over again" recommendations? For example, I saw in another comment that you had "switched over to a Spigot/Hub flush bushing for inside the lid" because the silicon did not hold up on the pipe going into the bucket lid. Do you have a specific part(s) recommendation for this mod? I'm defiantly going with the RIVNUTs and some of the other recommendations in the comments like the tempered glass. Any other new suggestions? Thanks.
Hey Douglas, thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. I would definitely change over to the Spigot x Hub Flush Bushing versus what we showed in the video. This is keep the connection to the vacuum nice and tight. The original method caused issues with the connection to the bucket to become loose.
Here is what we used for the Spigot x Hub Bushing-
thd.co/3LbEt2L
Pictures of it installed -
ibb.co/zxVsnjS
ibb.co/FmH4bGj
There has been lots of recommendations in the comments to use the Nutserts for the glass trim. I would go this route if you have the option. The kits these days are pretty affordable and it's a good tool to have in the garage. We haven't sourced one yet so I can't recommend any specific brand.
You can get the inner glass film protectors from TP Tools. They are about $4.00 per piece/film. This is a great idea if you decide to go with the tempered glass on the bottom. Since that is more expensive than what we are using you want to help protect it. That being said we haven't had an issue with the standard glass which works out to be about $6 per piece. We just prefer the clarity of the glass versus the stick on film. It just never seems as clear especially since we are filming projects.
www.tptools.com/Skat-Blast-Standard-Cabinet-Inner-Lens-Protectors,7881.html?b=d*14066
Other than those the next upgrade we are looking at is a Foot Pedal. Your trigger finger will get tired when doing a long project.
Good luck on your blast cabinet build, let us know how it goes, Cheers
How are you restricting air into the cabinet at left side where the black cap fits adapter going thru side panel ?
Hey Michael, I haven't really found the need to regulate the intake air coming in. If anything the hole is kinda small, meaning there is a little too much vacuum with our crazy Craftsman shop vac hooked up.
But the air flows through it nicely and the vision is great with the glass and the light. Also the dust bucket is working as planned.
New restoration video coming soon showing off the blast cabinet.
Cheers!
awesome guide guys, well done! the best and clearest I've seen so far. I think the only mod you missed was making the whole top a lid you can lift up. Really appreciate the parts list and links to everything, and that you explained everything to a beginner level. those of us that are a little more advanced can easily see where to take it from there. (ie - I can easily weld up the angle iron & expanded metal base).
Hey Brian, thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. We really wanted to create the mods so that anyone could perform them with just basic tools. Most people have a drill and a hack saw, but maybe not a welder....lol
In regards to the top becoming a lid, that is something we thought about but realized that if it's too big to go through the door then it's probably too heavy to lift through the top. We just use the regular sand blaster for all the large/heavy parts.
Thank again for hanging out, appreciate the support, Cheers!
I have had one of these cabinets for about 12 years....I still use the original internal media pickup(I use medium grade crushed glass for restoring Tonka toys etc.)I modified my light using a flourescent type lamp head off an old desk lamp and have it taped to the top outside of the glass.I also made up a plywood hood that sits around the edges of the glass surround.....and over your head as you look into the cabinet so you don't get as much glare from around your room.
My dust extractor uses a sealed bucket similar to yours,I have an old vacuum cleaner hose running from the plug on the back of the cabinet down to the side of the bucket with a 90 degree fitting through the side of the bucket to create a swirl effect....I have a centrifugal air filter pre cleaner off a tractor( the one with a clear bowl and removable lid).It is mounted on a hose coming up through the bottom of the bucket.This hose then attaches to a bagless vacuum cleaner.I have blocked off over half of the inletflutes on the underside of the pre cleaner to create a better swirl to account for the lesser flow of the vacuum cleaner.Works a treat!!
I also use a sacrificial cellophane sheet taped to the inside of the glass...and I cut the previous used sheet into 4 pieces and tape that to the inside of the new sheet separately...so you only use 1/4 of the size of your glass to look through originally and as the view gets obscured you peel off the next 1/4 sheet for a fresh clear view...and this continues until all 1/4 sheets have been removed...then you put a fresh full sized sheet on the glass and start again.I still have the original glass sheet in the cabinet!!!j
Hey John, thanks for sharing all the details about your cabinet. It's great to hear that after 12 years of use it is still going strong. Appreciate you hanging out and providing your wisdom. Cheers!
Incredible tutorial - great mods done well especially the metal no-weld base! Suddenly, I want a sand blasting cabinet…
Thanks for the kind words Kim, glad you enjoyed the video. Of course everything is more expensive today than when we made the video but the blast cabinet is still working great. It does come in handy to clean up all sorts of items.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Very nice job and well explained. On the metering valve, is it to regulate how much media flows through the siphon by allowing air into it ? Also on the inner glass, have you tried plexiglass or is it also susceptible to to abrasion ?
Hey William, thanks for the comments. Yes, the metering valve is to fine tune the amount of abrasive material. Too much abrasive will flood the airstream and slow down the blasting operation. Too little abrasive with starve the blasting compressed air stream, and be ineffective.
As for the inner glass or other material, all of it will get pitted from use. The next thing we are going to try are the stick on sheets of mylar. We prefer the use of glass since we are filming the process and need the best clarity we can get. Some of the plexiglass is not as clear as glass. Cheers!
I watched this because I have been thinking of buying this cabinet in hopes of saving a few bucks on my next rebuild. A few thoughts are try nut-serts (threaded inserts) in the cabinet to mount the glass frame. 3M VHB double sided tape will hold the permanent glass piece in the frame so you do not have to juggle two sheets of glass. When drilling with the hole saw , slow your drill speed way down and use some cutting oil as well as securing the piece you are cutting. This will save your hole saw and your drill won’t have to work so hard.
I loved the expanded metal shelf idea and will definitely go with it for the full length of the frame and think it would be great for holding work pieces.
Hey Dan, thanks for all the great tips and tricks. Another subscriber recommended the Nut-serts as well. I didn't realize that the price of the kits has come down so much. Pretty affordable to have in the shop at around $40-50.
The tape idea sounds good to hold the top piece of glass. It's not that difficult to wiggle it around but making it that much easier is a plus.
Good luck upgrading your base with the expanded metal, I know you will be happy with the shelf on the bottom. Cheers!
Excellent video dude, time to mod my bad boy!!
Thanks for the comments Roger, glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun doing the various mods to your blast cabinet. Let us know how things go, Cheers!
Nice job guys turned out awesome
Thanks TK, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
Great upgrade!!
Thanks for the comments Ron, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
You guys did an incredible job
Thanks for kind words, appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
Great video! I noticed you were using black pipe as opposed to galv pipe on the metering valve. Any particular reason?
Hey Robert, thanks for the question. You can use either black pipe or galvanized for the metering valve components. It really just came down to what was available when we were building the blast cabinet. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Love all the mods you have done, thinking seriously about doing the same to mine down here in Australia. Do you have any footage of it all in operation??
Hey Dustybum, glad you liked the video. We have made a couple videos that show the blast cabinet in action.
Here is our restoration of a BMW E21 rear differential - ua-cam.com/video/qSG_-B1U3fI/v-deo.html
We used both the Aluminum Oxide for the steel parts and Glass Bead for the rear aluminum cover.
Here is another quick shot of the wheel bearing hub we did for another video - ua-cam.com/video/qwlcCnwFT0o/v-deo.html
Let us know how your project turns out, Cheers!
Bradley, quick question. At the 59:46 mark there is a black coupling on the left side near the power switch. What is that? Thanks
Disregard. Saw the comment below. Thanks for a great detailed video
@@fireshack No worries Paul, was just about to respond. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Hey there! First of all great job! And nice video. 2nd - just a question about the lights: why put the ballast inside the cabinet? Is there a reason for it being inside? And why not recess the outlet box into the cabinet using a sealed box ? Just wondering if there were specific reasons why it was done that way
Hey DreamWeaver, thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video.
Since these particular Led lights are made to retrofit from florescent overhead lights, they are designed to fit in those existing lights housings. Hence the wires that they are made with are pretty short. If you wanted to lengthen those wires, you could definitely place the ballast outside of the cabinet. We decided to just leave it as is and it hasn't been an issue for us.
With regards to the outlet box, it just made the most sense to mount it on the outside. Trying to create a hole for a recessed box did not seem practical for the average user. We wanted to try to make these upgrades easily attainable for the average do it yourselfer.
Thanks again for hanging out, hope this answers your questions, Cheers!
best blast cabinet mod video i've found- thx
Thanks for kind words BH, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
Awesome mods! Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate you stopping by. Cheers!
Hey so we've bought the same one but wondered what the benefit of the metering valve at the bottom is vs an external blast pod which is what we are using at the moment. We need ours to be pretty aggressive because my wife blasts river stones for designs. Would love to know, cheers!
Hey Dustin, thanks for the comments. We decided to upgrade to the metering valve simply because the siphon tube is not reliable enough and seems to be prone to clogging all the time. Also, we seem to need a lot less media in the cabinet with the gravity feed type system than when using a siphon tube setup.
I'm not familiar with an external blast pod so I can't comment on that. Cheers!
Outstanding information, Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! It was definitely a process, it's worth the time investment and a little bit of extra cash to in the end come out as an amazing cabinet that will last for decades.
@@BradleysGarage Your welcome , Does the light you added have a part #, and where did you get it, you might of said in vid buti missed it.
@@michaeloleary558 Heres the product link, it appears our link in the description no longer works. www.prolighting.com/brands/optilumen/21-inch/rks2230-4.html
@@BradleysGarage Got it ,thanks again.
Hello again, all the info that was shown pertaining to your parts list disappeared when you resent the link for the LED light, could you possibly resend it ? thanks Mike
Seems like a great series of modifications but one thing I didn’t see explained is the purpose of the air regulator valve in the siphon piping underneath.
Is there a need to allow air to enter the siphon tube because it should be full of blast media unlike just having the siphon tube sitting in the media inside the cabinet?
Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions-
ibb.co/4Vqg5kM
Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, Cheers!
Thank you so much for all your hard work. I've watched the video many times as I am currently upgrading my Princess Auto version using your mods . I am curious to know the specs of the compressor you use. Mine is 60 gallon 11.4 CFM and 125 to 155 PSI. It works well at this range but not well below. Thank You.
Hey Doug, appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Our current compressor is actually a little weak but it gets the job done.
Specs: 27 Gallon, 6.5 CFM @ 90psi
We typically run around 45-60psi with the regulator for both Aluminum Oxide and the Glass Bead. The main issue we have is the tank runs out of air rather quickly so we have to stop and wait for it to recharge.
It made our Diff restoration project quite lengthy - ua-cam.com/video/qSG_-B1U3fI/v-deo.html
Let us know how your project turns out, Cheers!
Just picked up a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet and was looking up what mods people recommend. Thank You for all the work you put into this video. This is awesome.
Congrats on your purchase, glad you enjoyed the video. You will spend some time and money with the upgrades but you will be much happier with the blast cabinet afterwards. Keep us posted on how your upgrades go. Cheers!
Nice work! Wish I watched this 12 hrs ago before I started using it today! Definitely going to do these upgrades
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on the upgrades, let us know how things go. Cheers!
Thankfully for Amazon prime and the patience to dig through the disorganized pipe section at Home Depot I’m almost done installing all the upgrades!
Also thank you for the video! Made it easy!
@Texas_taildraggin Sounds like you hate shopping as much as us 🙄
Congrats on getting through it.
Cheers!
@Texas_taildraggin Glad the video helped inspire you. Let us know how the project comes together.
Cheers!
DAAAAAAAMN!!!!! this looks good. A lot of work, but worth it. Thks for making this video.
Thanks for the comments Joseph, glad you enjoyed the video. It's a bit of work but you will have a blast cabinet that will theoretically last your lifetime. Thanks again for hanging out, good luck on your project. Cheers!
Quick questions on the build. Your stock vent cap over near the lights. Do you just pop that open when you have the vacuum on? Anyway to adjust the airflow through that plug? And the back of the cabinet where you drilled through that cap and installed an elbow. Could I buy only the 90 deg. Elbow and cut the flared end off one side and glue that directly into the drilled bent plug that comes stock with the cabinet? I was thinking this might make the down tube sit closer to the back of the cabinet for when it’s sitting up next to the shops wall. Thanks for your help, & especially on how to control the airflow through the cabinet.
Thanks for the questions Duffy. The stock cap on the left gets removed when using the vacuum. We just keep it on to prevent dust from getting inside when not in use. You could definitely just use the elbow to keep the rear pipe tighter to the cabinet.
Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your blast cabinet project. Cheers!
Nice work!
Thanks for the kind words Evil, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project.
Cheers!
Awesome unit guys great job love it
Thanks Lou, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
hi, i tried your set. Works really well, thanks for the great video guys. ! question though, with the white sand media i have no problem with flow, but when i switch to the coal dust media which is at least double the grain, it is very spotty flow. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the questions Donnie, glad you enjoyed the video. The aluminum oxide is heavier than the glass bead so the settings will be a bit different. Make sure you have a desiccant air dryer/filter since any moisture in the line will make it even more challenging. Second you can adjust the inlet pressures up a little bit and play around with the lower ball valve. You will find a sweet spot with your particular setup, since it depends on your air compressor CFM.
Good luck on your blast cabinet mods, Cheers!
thanks for that detailed video !
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I've had that box for about a year and a half. First thing I did was add the metering value to it, but I have the ball value in line with the feed hose. Walnut is so light no matter how much air you give it, it still would clog up the hose. Being in line I can now adjust the amount of medium entering the hose. Works perfect.
I have been looking for another light and yours is perfect and easy to install. Will go online today and order it. Thanks.
Thanks for the info Robert. Curious if your setup works with the Walnut Shell media? Don't use it that often but would like to get it working better.
Also be sure to use our discount code at ProLighting.com for the savings on your LED light purchases.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Walnut is all I have been using so far. Works perfect with the ball value. I'll take a picture of it later and send it to you. The ball value is the key. And being it's vacuum and not pressure it will not destroy the ball value.
funny story about your centerpunch. Necessity is the mother of invention. Once again, good video
You have to make due with the tools you got. Glad you enjoyed it, Cheers!
After watching your video and a few others, I decided to get one myself. I do recommend everyone to run silicon between each panel, trusting the foam had sand leaking out of the bottom door and some of the foam panels and save some cash by buying a "sandblasting gun metering valve" for like 50 instead of a similar build here which costed me about 100 at home depot.
Can't wait to use it again though, thanks for all of the advice Bradley!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We agree that you should use some polyurethane caulking as the foam doesn't do a good enough job of sealing the cabinet. That is the only thing we would change from the mods we did on our cabinet.
Have fun with your blast cabinet.
Cheers!
Thanks for upgrades I would use rivnuts for glass/ bolt installation
Hey Kurt, thanks for the feedback. I just learned about those after reading all the comments to this video.
We will definitely check them out on our next project, Cheers!
Thanks Bradley.
Hey Kareem, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
I’m having a hard time finding the conduit fitting that attaches to the door for the mixing valve, is there a name for this or where did you purchase it. Thought I could find it on Amazon but no luck so far. Excellent video.
Hey Danny, thanks for the comments. The links for all the parts used are in the description but the part you're looking for is referred to as a 1 inch watertight conduit hub. That particular one is made by Rigid and sold at Home Depot.
Here is the direct link:
www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-Rigid-Watertight-Conduit-Hub-16310/100176315
I'm sure they have similar products from other manufacturers and online stores.
Here is an Amazon link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0055D5N68
Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
Thanks for the quick reply, very helpful, keep up the quality videos.
If using walnut media, what PSI have you had the best performance with?
Hey Travis, we have not had any luck using the stock HF gun and Walnut Shell media. We have only tried 12-20 size so far but it just gets clogged in the nozzle.
We are still exploring other options right now to see if we can find a solution. Cheers!
The caulking and sealing mods you refer to I believe is for vapor blasting.
It's a good idea to add caulking to help with the fine particles from escaping the box. The blast media is so fine, even the tiniest hole get exposed. Cheers!
Wow great job! Appreciate the time and effort put into this video. I'm making a parts run, in about an hour, and will start working on all the same Mods you did. I have one question please. My glass is 12" X 24" you show the glass panel 24" X 36". Is mine different or did you cut the glass panel you bought down? Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Marty, glad you enjoyed the video. You will need to cut the glass twice, something the hardware store can do for you at the time of purchase. Then you will have (2) extra pieces to swap out once the first one gets pitted and difficult to see through.
Have fun on your blast cabinet build, let us know how things go.
Cheers!
Got it that was my guess but wanted to make sure. thanks again@@BradleysGarage
@martyharris9725 No worries, glad we could help you out. Cheers!
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Glad your enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
I just built mine and reversed the bolts like you did for easy window replacement. So, those bolts they gave us are 4mm? I've been trying to figure that out so I can order the correct thumb nuts. Thanks.
Congrats on your build, that's the toughest part.
On our box, we definitely have M4 bolts for the window trim. I know another guy said he got M5 in his kit so maybe they got changed along the way.
I would just take one bolt to the local hardware store to confirm what size you're working with. Then use the link in the description to order the Knurled Nuts from the link. They are available in both M4 & M5 variants.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I'm thinking I might also have M5 as well. My metric calipers read 4.85 mm total width of threads. Can't find my thread tool but looks to be 1mm or less. I was told that you round up on total thread shaft width. Will be heading to Ace soon. Thanks.
Hey man, followed your mods on my HF cabinet a few months ago and have been doing well. I use it to engrave glass. But I had two questions I was hoping you had solutions for. 1) I use 100-120 AO grit and some collects in the small gap between the bottom of the door and cabinet. I've tried using duct tape as a sheild but that hasn't worked, not could I fill up the gap. Any ideas? 2) Occasionally I have trouble getting the AO to come up the feed line. Feels like the PSI is good (coming out the gun) but the AO either doesn't move in the feed line or it sorta comes up halfway then falls back down. Y'all ever experience that? Thanks for any advice!
Hey Tiger, glad to hear the mods are working out well for you. I haven't really found a good solution for the material finding its way in the door gap. I always just use the blow gun to remove the buildup of material that finds its way into that for gap. Then when I open the door, I get very minimal debris falling.
In regards to the media flow, the only times we have had any issues is when there is excess moisture in the supply line. It seems to be a little more picky with the gravity setup versus siphon when it comes to moisture.
Good luck with your future projects, Cheers!
Hi Bradley, this video is fantastic. Thank you for all the effort in it. I'm still assembling my cabinet but I have one question (so far lol)... What made you go with doing that vacuum mod set up to the cover plate/vent on the back as opposed to using the dust port on the left side of the cabinet? You obviously seem to know what you are doing so I figure you must have a reason for the preference. I was going to vac mod on the left side but looking to see what made you use the back? Thanks in advance!
Hey JR, thanks for the kind words. There were a couple reasons for utilizing the back port for the vacuum system. I know the HF instructions say to use the left side port but we felt the rear was better suited for that job.
First, there is already a nice cover plate over the rear hole that helps provide a better flow of uniform vacuum within the cabinet. Since it is drawing air from the top and bottom in the rear, instead of just the side port drawing suction through that isolated hole. We just feel this pulls the debris towards the back of the unit and away from your work area/field of vision.
Second, by using the back hole we can route the PVC piping to the dust canister and not create any unnecessary width on the left side. We felt that adding a couple inches to the rear of the unit was better for fitting in the typical shop. The right side was not a concern with the regulator and adding width, since you have to have that space anyways since the door is on the right side.
At the end of the day, it really is a personal choice on what you prefer. We like hooking it up in the back as it gives a more aesthetic look to the finished cabinet. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions. Good luck on the hard part.......Building the cabinet.....LOL
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage hey, thanks for the quick reply and detailed explanation. One other question on it... so when you are running everything so you open the left port as a "vent" or do you keep that side port closed all the time?
@@JRFoltz Yes, you absolutely have to open the left side port. That's where all your fresh air will be coming from.
I just leave the cap on when not in use to prevent anything from going inside.
Even with the cap off it's a strong enough suction to lift the gloves off the tray. So don't forget to pull that cap off before you fire up the vacuum. Hope that clears things up for you. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Awesome, just wanted to make sure that switching the vac port to the back didn't change anything about how you operate it. Thanks again!
Bradley, what size grommet did you use for the whole from the inside of the cabinet to the electrical box? Also, having trouble finding the 5/8 ID hose with a 3/4 OD. Home depot has it but it says it is a 7/8 OD. If not sure that will work with the 3/4 grommets.
How big was the hole saw used installing the metering valve? Thanks for the time and energy making this video.
Thanks for the question, we used a 1 3/8" hole saw for the conduit fittings. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your blast cabinet build. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Thanks for replying.
@@marang1966 No worries, have fun with the upgrades. Cheers!
Love the light set up! I put leds in mine and their ok but I think I will change to the ones you have. Where did you find them?
Hey Shaun, here are the links for the LED lights -
Prolighting LED Light Kit
21" 30 Watt LED Strips, 4,324 Lumens - $40.50
www.prolighting.com/brands/optilumen/21-inch/rks2230-4.html
2" Clear Snap on Lens Cover - (2) $3.20
www.prolighting.com/lns-2c.html
BTW - all of the products used in these mods are linked in the description.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks for the info!
No worries, let us know how your LED upgrade goes. Cheers!
What size hole did you drill for the 1" conduit fitting?
Thanks for the question, we used a 1 3/8" hole saw for the conduit fittings. Good luck on your blast cabinet build. Cheers!
nice job,my next project thank you.
Thanks for the comments Owen, good luck on your blast cabinet upgrades. Cheers!
Great vid. I definately need to get some air flow into my sand pick up, and better lighting. Instead of expensive glass , I just use 1/4 inch plastic , it doesnt frost as much from the sand but from wiping , using a window spray and clean soft cloth lessens this. The other thing I have found beneficial is running metal insect screen across the platform , this prevents paint ,scale etc from clogging the gun. Biggest issue I have is air flow even though I have a fairly large two cylinder compressor
Great suggestions Bruce, appreciate the feedback. Getting those LED's are a must have. Be sure to use our discount code for 5% off sitewide from ProLighting.
I do like the idea of the metal screen to minimize the debris contaminating the media. Since we don't use very much media with the gravity feed setup, I usually just toss the couple scoops out after a dirty job. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Setting the bolts in with knurled nuts is a great idea also, I will definately be doing that , next time I change the screen. You can also minimise the wear on the screen by directing the sand away from it. Another channel suggested changing the gun tips to suit the compressor
Bruce, a lot of suggestions in the comments below recommended using Nutserts in lieu of the Knurled Nuts we showed in the video. It seems like the kits are pretty reasonable these days with most being around $40. I wasn't aware this was an option otherwise I might have made the investment in the tool.
Either way, being able to replace the glass/plastic quickly and easily is the key. Cheers!
Great ideas thanks!
Glad you enjoyed the video Shark Byte, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Sorry if I missed it, but what is the purpose of the small 1/4 inch air valve that runs off the larger one inch assembly? Think I missed something
Hey Kev, thanks for the question. The 1/4" valve is to regulate the amount of incoming airflow to the blast media suction tube. This will adjust the amount of blast media delivered to the gun.
Here is a good graphic that shows how the metering valve works.
ibb.co/4Vqg5kM
Hopefully that clears up any questions you have regarding the metering valve setup, Cheers!
Great video man. I'm about to pick up one of these blast cabinets and do pretty much the same upgrades. Only thing is I'm a lefty so I'm thinking about mirroring the hoses to the left side of the cabinet... any reason you think this might be a bad idea?
Hey Cody, glad you enjoyed the video. You could definately run the hoses on the left side. Just drill a couple holes and then get the appropriate size grommet to act as a cover for the existing ones.
Good luck on your project, let us know how it goes, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage hey I saw that the 1/2" plug goes in the side of the cabinet but I guess I messed where the 5/8 plug you listed goes???
Hey Cody, if I recall correctly, it was used under where the electrical box was mounted. We drilled a hole in the middle of it to run the LED wires through it to the outlet/switch box. Just trying to prevent media going into the switch box.
Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi, can I go with 1 inch to the second T and after that with 3/4 stuff? Thanks
Hey Diamond, you shouldn't have any issues if you want to use 1" from the base of the cabinet and then transition to 3/4" at the proportioning valve.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
How large air compressor (litre per minute) is needed to get a satisfied result on the sand blasting in this cabinet?
Thanks for the question Frank. According to manufacturer this blast cabinet needs 9.5 CFM (269 LPM) @ 90psi in order to operate efficiently. Our current compressor will only do 5.1 CFM (144 LPM) @ 90 psi so we do not get as much air volume as would be ideal. Obviously it can still function well and get the job done. We just have to wait for the compressor to fill up with air so big jobs can be time consuming since our tank is only 27 gallons as well.
We are looking into getting a bigger unit at some point in the future. We would need at least around 15 CFM @ 90psi in order be able to handle anything we throw at it. Cheers!
When the vac is on where does the supply air come from ??
Do you open the original vac point on the left side of the cabinet ??
Hey Gregg, thanks for the question. We actually hook it up differently than the instructions recommend. We are using the rear hole for the vacuum attachment and the left side hole as the intake for the incoming air. This way the excess dust/debris is pulled towards the back of the cabinet and out of our field of view. We found this works better than pulling air from the back and then going forward to the left.
You can just leave the left side cap on when not in use to prevent bugs or other things from getting into your media.
In addition, it just looks cleaner if the vacuum pipes are in the back of the unit versus on the side.
Thanks again for watching, Cheers!
What type of foot pedal and gun replacement would you recommend?
Thanks for the question Elite Wheel Repair, we have not pulled the trigger on that upgrade yet. We have been looking at a couple options:
The first is from Eastwood which comes with the foot pedal and gun and looks to contain everything you need to convert to a foot pedal setup - www.eastwood.com/eastwood-blast-cabinet-foot-pedal-and-gun.html
The second is from TP Tools, although it's not 100% clear on what is included within the kit? Not sure if you get all of the hoses and hardware needed to convert your cabinet. The other two kits look to be complete based on the photos. - www.tptools.com/Foot-Pedal-Upgrade-Kit,7453.html?sku=6411-kit
The third and most expensive options is from ALC but it does seem to be complete with everything you need to get you going - www.tillmantools.com/ALC-11666-Cabinet-Blaster-Foot-Pedal-Kit-p/alc11666.htm
Let us know if you decide to "pull the trigger" and pickup one of these kits. Cheers!