Right Way to Dial-in your Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet Metering Valve Upgrade - Step by Step
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 чер 2024
- www.partswasherupgradekit.com. Instructions - how to dial in your Blast Cabinet Metering Valve.
See all of our other instructional videos.
Please visit our website to learn more about all of our blast cabinet and parts washer upgrade kits and parts. Thanks for watching.
Just got my full kit installed and I love it thank you!
@Michael. Many thanks for your kind comment. Happy blasting !!
Thank You for taking the time to make this video.
You are very welcome - we do our best to educate people as to how these systems work and why sometimes they do not work so well. Happy blasting !!
Damn good video explanation! Definitely have to look into this kit. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you !!
Very good explaining ron. Keep up the good work !! I wil leave another comment when i assemble mine. Very informational vidoe. Buy these kits from this man asap !
Charlot
Send me an email at
partswasherupgradekit@gmail.com
I can help you out
Just ordered a Metering Valve. I am looking forward to trying it out.
Hope you enjoy it!
Thanks for the info that's great to know.
Glad it was helpful!
Good explanation
New subscriber
Cheers
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you I have a similar setup and it used to work great but then I haven't used it for a long time and it won't suck any media. Took apart the metering valve looking for clogs completely changed the media and now it gives spurts of media. I'm going to calabrate the air pressure and metering valve like you described. Thanks again
Hope this worked for you. thanks for watching our video. Check out our new videos as well on our gun vs other styles and imports. regards
Ill have to try it
Great demonstration … what advise do you have for an Eastwood blast cabinet that I have had since 2008 and the bottom of the media area of the cabinet basically comes to a point and there is no door as you are demonstration. I have two holes about 1 inch in diameter… one to drain the media plug and the other a media pickup hole the goes from there into the top part of the shelf of the cabinet in the front. Hoping you can advise… thanks in advance ✅
If you can send a pic or two of the bottom of your cabinet we can probably make a recommendation to assist you.
Hi, Great video.
What size is clear reinforced media delivery hose (Inside
Diameter and outside Diameter).
Thanks You
1/2" ID
3/4" OD
Seeing it done live would be good, but understanding the fundamentals will get you there anyway and it becomes complicated after that as you do have to consider things like condenstation in your air lines/ how much CFM you can flow / is the nozzle diameter correct / what material your using and so on.
Whats the saying " plenty of ways to skin a cat and the end result is basically the same"
Keep up the good work i am sure you have helped heaps of people out, and jealous of some of the air compressors you lot have access to for cheap
You are correct that there are a number of variables. The system needs to be balanced by design and component selection and then dialed in to achieve max efficiency
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 With all that now understood, what is the minimum CFM you would recommend for this set-up with light sanding , say 2 hours or less in any given month?
Also, what is the minimum gallon size tank you'd recommend?
Understanding these two measurements will help me decide if I should buy your kit. Thank You.
@@allyg8or 6 to 8 cfm is the bare minimum we would suggest. But more is always good. Hope this helps
Have you tried running a hose from metering valve upwards to the work area w/valve attached? Then you can regulate the air bleed without having to get under the cabinet.
That is an interesting suggestion but since this adjustment generally needs to be made only at the time of dialing in (and when media type or size is changed), it might be more plumbing than generally required. Appreciate the thought. Best regards
what about the adjustment at the gun? how far do you screw in the nut? What effect does it have on the system?
Cheers Nick.
You want 3 to 4 threads showing between the brass lock nut and the black hex portion of the body of the orifice. From there you can turn it in one turn or out one turn. This gives you the final fine control of the spray pattern of the media as it exits the orifice. But you do this adjustment LAST after everything else is dialed in. Hope this answers your question. regards. The team at Best Tool Upgrades
As a beginner what size air hose, fittings, valve, and Nozzle sizes should I use for medium rust on automotive sheet metal. I have a radiator frame I want to disassemble and media blast. I'd like to do it without have to go through a bunch of trial and error, do you guys sell a wall chart for that? Thanks for all you guys do, I've started watching your videos and have visited your website and purchased the pipe version of the Metering Valve, but I need more information. I have the large stand up HF Cabinet. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Here's some answers to your questions:
1) 3/8" ID air hose is the standard
2) 1/4" fittings with 3/8" barb are standard (and no - they are not too small)
3) Nozzle ID should be approx 2x the orifice ID
4) orifice size needs to be tuned to the CFM of the compressor
5) black diamond (coal slag) and aluminum oxide would be good media to try. Grit size depends on the size of your system (CFM and orifice size) and the amount of rust you are needing to knock off
hope this helps
Best regards
The Team at best Tool Upgrades
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 Wow I was hopeful you guys would answer but didn't really expect one because most businesses are to busy to answer. I put mine together and have the HF Gun on it and one of the Y-Looking guns, sorry not yours, and I should be trying it out after I get some media. Here's the information I have on my current set up;
* Competitors Gun
- Black Nozzle opening is a #1 drill .228" (5.8mm).
- Air Inlet #23 .154" (3.9mm).
** The harbor Freight Gun
- White ceramic Nozzle opening is a #11 drill .191" (4.8mm).
- Air Inlet of #39 .099" (2.5mm).
*** The compressor is a Speedaire 4B247B with a max PSI of 135
- Displacement CFM of 14.1
- Free Air of 11.2CFM @40psi and 9.6CFM @60 psi.
If anyone can make sense of this you guys can. PS I have a 60 Gallon SpeedAire Cast Iron tank. The motor is 240V @ 15amps 3450 rpm. Sorry for all the specs but I used to be an Aviation Electronics Technician for 42 years for the U.S. Navy and Contractors and I found it best to give all the information if you want a effective answer. I absolutely loved your video! Best Wishes & Blessings. From the YT Channel Keith Noneya
What size ceramic tip are you using..I can't do nothing on 60psi..I've tried different size tips,seems that a number 6 or better is all I can get to work,,I figured a smaller tip would give more pressure,but will not draw media...I'm using 80 grit aluminum oxide
We use a 1/4" nozzle and then match the orifice to the output specs of the compressor. The nozzle (assume this is what you are calling the tip) plays a roll in controlling the spray pattern but the orifice size (ID) is really the most important component in terms of getting good and consistent flow. We would need more info to help you diagnose the problem. Also if you are using the HF gun that came with the cabinet, that thing is pretty bad. Have you replaced the siphon tube with a metering valve. That will work wonders. Hope this helps
Just ordered one last night! What media do you recommend for car parts? Crushed glass?
Appreciate your order. Need more info to make a rec on media type. Are you removing rust? Or preparing clean surface for primer and paint?
What type of metal - mild steel, aluminum ?
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 makes sense I'll be doing it all so time for some experimenting lol. The kit came two days early and is great quality. Will for sure be leaving a review on the website. Thanks for putting this together
In theory can I use a bigger fitting that attaches to the drop door? And what is the best size for the part coming off the tee that the hose and valve attach too? I plan on welding a bigger pipe fitting to the door so there's a bigger hole for the media to go through.
Bigger is not always better because the flow of air will effectively stop when volume becomes too great. If you go to a larger pipe fitting to attempt to increase the draining of the hopper you may find that improving one aspect of the valve renders the rest of it highly ineffective. We tested many combinations before we found what functioned the best. All the pieces need to work together. Hope this helps
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 I have a 1" tee that has a 1/2" outlet on the "tee" part. That should be good enough as the final outlet is 1/2" right?
The tee needs an extension to form the barrel portion. The 1/2 outlet is fine.
Will these kits also work on the bench top version of a blast cabinet?
Absolutely. We have had many customers add our kits to their desk top blaster. Thanks for your question
How much media do you normally put in the cabinet when using the valve?
Best to start with 2 large cups full (like red beer cups) during the dialing in process. Once it is dialed in you can add more but too much creates packing problems so add until efficiency degrades and then remove some to max out on efficiency. Happy blasying
When will you be doing the comparison of the pipe meter and the hf meter valve in tems of which1 is better in terms of with one is more efficient and affective
Also does the metering valve require more cfm
We have been wanting to do this for a while. In all honesty, our sales are way up and we have been super busy making sure that we have sufficient supply of stock and maintaining our fast ship standards. We hope to get to it next moth as timer allows and will certainly post a new video
thanks for your comment
more cfm than what - the siphon tube? Actually because the metering valve is a more efficient design, less cfm should be necessary assuming all other variables are the same (media type, grit size, psi, etc)
I have a question, Does it matter how close the air inlet valve is to the main body?
Not sure what you are asking here. Can you please rephrase the question and we will try to answer it
Can I remote mount the air bleed valve so it is accessible from standing level? As it is right now I can't see the gun when I am adjusting the valve.
Interesting idea !! Yes - this is possible as long as the tube you use is not too small in ID as to create significant levels of friction that would reduce flow.
I mounted a lawn mower throttle cable to the valve so it's up on side machine easy access
What ID hose are you using? Thanks
The air hose is 3/8 ID.
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 thanks for getting back to me. I’ve read a lot of stuff saying you need to have 1/2” ID hose. I guess that’s not the case? Btw, that mockup was genius and so helpful.
@@plugger410 The media hose is 1/2" ID. A 3/8" ID air hose delivers PLENTY of air and is the standard for most air delivery systems. Bigger is not necessarily better in all cases. Thanks for the comment on the mockup. Started to film it on the actual cabinet and started to make myself sick with all the looking up and and looking down LOL !! Please subscribe to our channel to get notifications of our future videos. Those subscriptions help us out a lot. Happy blasting
Please describe what is best setting?
Thanks for your question, which is really the point of this video. The metering valve needs to be dialed in as described in the video because your setup will be a little different than another one. It only takes about 5 minutes to dial it in and really never needs to be changed unless you change your compressor or go to a very different kind of media. Try the procedure we have described and let us know if you have any questions. Happy blasting !!
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 thanks
@@partswasherupgradekit6028 but what dictates the best or optimal flow? Is it when the most media is flowing thru the tube up to the gun?
I ended up duplicating this entire system. But, no matter what PSI/metering valve position combo, barely any media comes out of the gun. The cabinet is brand new so I can't see how it could be trash in the media. Anyone have any ideas where to check for an issue?
@Doug: Sorry to hear that you are having issues. If you sourced parts yourself from the various internet sources, it is possible that you have parts that are not quality pieces. For example, please see our video ua-cam.com/video/NGEtNs8QWpw/v-deo.html where we describe a very poor quality Chinese knockoff of the gun that we sell on our website partswasherupgradekit.com. Without knowing if the parts themselves are up to snuff, it is hard to diagnose the problem. It is possible that you have the wrong orifice size in the gun and that orifice is not matched to your compressor specs. Or the nozzle ID may not be matched to the orifice ID. Get back to us if you continue to have problems and we will do our best to help.
@UCJ7yaZRyCTzOPzfTK4GMb9Q but what dictates the best or optimal flow? Is it when the most media is flowing thru the tube up to the gun?
THat is correct -- best consistent high flow of media stream.
that pedal only flows enough air for the very smallest orifices. It works fine used to control a rubber air valve. Air flow is enormously important, and all the pressure drop MUST be across the orifice, not any of the upstream parts. DITCH THAT PEDAL!
Thanks for your comment. The foot valve we supply with our kits is sized to work extremely well with the size orifices we supply (3/32 and 1/8). Our products are meant to support the home garage guy and small production shops. We have sold >1000s of kits and our customer feedback is enthusiastically positive based on their great experiences with upgrading their blast cabinets with our products. With very large orifices, 5/16" etc., yes, more air flow is needed across multiple components in the overall system, but these large size guns are typically found in large scale, factory style production facilities that run their equipment virtually all day and every day. That is clearly not our market. Again, thanks for your comment. Happy blasting!!
Replying to your comment, as i also am under the same undertanding! However... I have been thinking to have a pedal (i used to blast as a job commercially, so im used to it) annnd what/how i came up with was.. What if i run a 12v 3/4 solenoid valve so the "foot pedal" is electric actually(running a 13hp honda to a 3 cyl pump). I have 0 idea how it was done in the day (way back) i just did it, i wasnt thinking to ever build one. I have seen that.. apparently the lowrider community, has some what they call "Fast" valves, im thinking that might be the ticket?! Curious to hear feed back :) / I do know you can buy a mechanical 3/4 valve for several hundred from like one place, so far that i see.. But you can get one if these elec valves for half that, or less and they are "around" . Its all cloak and dagger trying to find orifice size on valves for the most part every pic of every valve everywhere isnt shown just right so you can actually SEE! Uh huh tells ya something right there i think! Another reason why i think the "fast acting" must be a large orifice ??!
Seriously if I used 60 psi my great grand kids might finish my project for me lol maybe
We cannot evaluate your system as we have no knowledge of it. However, our system, properly installed and dialed in, will perform with exceptional efficiency at or near 60 PSI at the cabinet. Running at this pressure is better for the compressor as it reduces the need to cycle on as often, reducing wear and tear. If we can assist you, please let us know. Best regards