@2 Wheel Workshop - Thank you for not talking for fifteen minutes before getting into the purpose of the video. That was simple, concise, and to the point with a basic parts description.
I use the same set up, but make it easier by prepping the part first. If it's painted, put it in a tub of caustic soda and water for a week first, then hose all the paint and grease off. Actual work time becomes less than 5 minutes. Then put it in a tub of household vinegar, leave it a few days, then most of the rust will hose off. Another 5 mins work. Then beadblast the part. Another 5 mins of worktime. Saves time, electricity and media and the parts clean up a treat. I've been doing it over ten years with great success and saved hundreds of dollars. Of course this is for cast iron, steel, brass and copper only. Items will come out of the vinegar black, that's gone in seconds once you start blasting. Putting the part in a bucket of hot soapy water before blasting will remove any residual vinegar in the pores of the metal first. 👍🇦🇺
@@2wheelworkshopGet yourself large square tubs with lids, or 5 gallon paint buckets with lids. The caustic bath or the vinegar bath will last up to a year, it is not a one time use resource. If not happy with the results the first time you hose the parts off, just drop them back in the tub. Wait a couple of days and hose them off again. It frees you up to work on other things while they soak. If you don't intend painting or plating the item, (engine or gearbox internals etc) spray the item with kitchen cooking oil and wrap it in food wrap. It will preserve it until you require it and will wash off easily with petrol. Canola oil has been used in the aircraft industry for years as as preservative. I am an old dude who has always looked for ways to work smarter, not harder, using household products that are cheap instead of spending big dollars on flash expensive commercial stuff. I also have a plethora of bikes, yet to restore, and the clock's ticking, I will not live forever. 😅 Edit: Always wear rubber gloves, the caustic bath will make your skin fall off, the vinegar will make your fingernails turn brown, wrinkle up and fall off (common sense, but have to point it out for the uninformed brainiacs).
@@lukewise1227Second the other comment, I use Vinegar for rust removal, I buy the 10 % at Home Depot because it works faster. Vinegar is cheap and not a bunch of Chemicals Thea who knows what can do to a person. Minor rust gone 1-2 days heavy rust I leave 2-3 days remove clean and scrub lightly with a small wire brush and water then back into the soak for another few days. Takes a bit of time, Works effortlessly, low cost, great results especially cast steel comes out like new most times. Use your blast cabinet to finish the part.
I've just done the same mod, for some reason I'm not picking up any mediato my gun no matter how much PSI or how open or closed my valve is, any idea what im doing wrong?
I made one and although it was better than the stock siphon tube it still sucks. i think my problem is that i accidentally bought all 1" pipe fittings and made it too big. no one mentions making slightly too big can cause issues. so instead of rebuilding it i just bought the parts washer guys modified metering valve.
I see you use 40psi. What is the flow rate (SCFM) required by the compressor? Mine is a DeWalt 60 gal. 3.7hp and will push up to 13 SCFM. Is that sufficient for this rig?.
Hey mate, Great video, simple and to the point, even overcomes the worldwide language barrier! Not to mention it was an Australian production, bravo! I have ordered a bench top 190L blasting cabinet, should arrive soon and have discovered this type of mod seems essential for improved performance. I hope to duplicate your effort and use it for restos of my numerous.....um.....projects. One thought though. I'm thinking of using a bulkhead style fitting into the cabinet, instead of a grommet arrangement, for better sealing and ability to use/replace a more flexible hose inside the cabinet if need be. I realise there is a risk of restricting flow but would look to modify any fittings used in the system to reduce this. Chamfering, blending in etc If this fails, I can just run the hose all the way. Thoughts anyone?
Thanks mate. I think the bulkhead idea would work fine so long as the inner diameter isn't too small. As you said, I would just try it and see how it goes. If it doesn't work it just means it's not finished yet.
@@2wheelworkshop Yes, if you I overcome any potential restriction issues, just go back to the full flow hose and grommet set up, easy. I have been giving some thought to using a cross fitting instead of a tee piece, that is Ball(metering) valve opposite the media pick up hose, drain plug remains as is, putting the media between the vacuum source and the "aeration/metering" or "loss of vacuum" valve, so any air introduced into the system must pass through the falling media, aerating it? One could also introduce some regulated low pressure air to help, rather than rely on vacuum alone? I may be missing some basic principle here but if the cross set up doesn't work, I can always plug it, admit defeat and change my UA-cam name! Anyone got some thoughts or am I barking up the wrong tree?
The only reason I went to dry blasting is because the pump for the vapour blasting conversion died. The original syphon tube kinda worked for really fine glass bead but was un-useable for coarser stuff so if dry blasting i would say the metering valve is a must. As far as comparing the 2 its hard to say. The set-up now is far more convenient but I wouldn't bead blast carbs like I could with the vapour conversion. Maybe I'll try baking soda. The finish i was getting with vapour was better. I would say if cleaning aluminium vapour is the go, if using more for steel and stripping paint, dry is better.
Hi I did the same install as you did.. Can you tell me what air pressure you work with. It's not working so good as I hoped.. Maybe I do something wrong!!
@2 Wheel Workshop - Thank you for not talking for fifteen minutes before getting into the purpose of the video. That was simple, concise, and to the point with a basic parts description.
Thanks mate. That's what I was going for. I hate videos that take forever to get to the point.
That was great, no talking, and getting your point across is not always easy, but you got it!
Thanks mate. Much appreciated.
Thanks for making this bro!
Im about to get into blasting and this is highly recommended!!!! You made it look very simple!!!!!
Also, what size was the hole you made for the new line coming into your gun and what size grommet ?
I use the same set up, but make it easier by prepping the part first. If it's painted, put it in a tub of caustic soda and water for a week first, then hose all the paint and grease off. Actual work time becomes less than 5 minutes. Then put it in a tub of household vinegar, leave it a few days, then most of the rust will hose off. Another 5 mins work. Then beadblast the part. Another 5 mins of worktime. Saves time, electricity and media and the parts clean up a treat. I've been doing it over ten years with great success and saved hundreds of dollars. Of course this is for cast iron, steel, brass and copper only. Items will come out of the vinegar black, that's gone in seconds once you start blasting. Putting the part in a bucket of hot soapy water before blasting will remove any residual vinegar in the pores of the metal first. 👍🇦🇺
Thanks mate. I will give that a go.
@@2wheelworkshopGet yourself large square tubs with lids, or 5 gallon paint buckets with lids. The caustic bath or the vinegar bath will last up to a year, it is not a one time use resource. If not happy with the results the first time you hose the parts off, just drop them back in the tub. Wait a couple of days and hose them off again. It frees you up to work on other things while they soak. If you don't intend painting or plating the item, (engine or gearbox internals etc) spray the item with kitchen cooking oil and wrap it in food wrap. It will preserve it until you require it and will wash off easily with petrol. Canola oil has been used in the aircraft industry for years as as preservative. I am an old dude who has always looked for ways to work smarter, not harder, using household products that are cheap instead of spending big dollars on flash expensive commercial stuff. I also have a plethora of bikes, yet to restore, and the clock's ticking, I will not live forever. 😅
Edit: Always wear rubber gloves, the caustic bath will make your skin fall off, the vinegar will make your fingernails turn brown, wrinkle up and fall off (common sense, but have to point it out for the uninformed brainiacs).
@@lukewise1227Second the other comment, I use Vinegar for rust removal, I buy the 10 % at Home Depot because it works faster. Vinegar is cheap and not a bunch of Chemicals Thea who knows what can do to a person. Minor rust gone 1-2 days heavy rust I leave 2-3 days remove clean and scrub lightly with a small wire brush and water then back into the soak for another few days. Takes a bit of time, Works effortlessly, low cost, great results especially cast steel comes out like new most times. Use your blast cabinet to finish the part.
Didn't this mod void the warranty... lol... Great vid... No BS and right to the point... Thanks
🤣 Thanks mate
Great video
Thanks mate
Great video. Very clear and concise
Thanks mate
@@2wheelworkshop I done the upgrade this arvo and my sand blaster works so much better. Thanks again
Thats awesome mate. Glad my video was helpful.
I've just done the same mod, for some reason I'm not picking up any mediato my gun no matter how much PSI or how open or closed my valve is, any idea what im doing wrong?
I made one and although it was better than the stock siphon tube it still sucks.
i think my problem is that i accidentally bought all 1" pipe fittings and made it too big. no one mentions making slightly too big can cause issues.
so instead of rebuilding it i just bought the parts washer guys modified metering valve.
Keep the vids going.
Thanks mate. I'll get back into it soon. Just atarted a new job and adjusting to the routine.
what size compresor do you use for this canbinet?
I see you use 40psi. What is the flow rate (SCFM) required by the compressor? Mine is a DeWalt 60 gal. 3.7hp and will push up to 13 SCFM. Is that sufficient for this rig?.
Hey mate,
Great video, simple and to the point,
even overcomes the worldwide language barrier!
Not to mention it was an Australian production, bravo!
I have ordered a bench top 190L blasting cabinet,
should arrive soon and have discovered this type of
mod seems essential for improved performance.
I hope to duplicate your effort and use it for restos
of my numerous.....um.....projects.
One thought though.
I'm thinking of using a bulkhead style fitting into the cabinet,
instead of a grommet arrangement, for better sealing and
ability to use/replace a more flexible hose inside the cabinet if need be.
I realise there is a risk of restricting flow but would look to modify
any fittings used in the system to reduce this.
Chamfering, blending in etc
If this fails, I can just run the hose all the way.
Thoughts anyone?
Thanks mate. I think the bulkhead idea would work fine so long as the inner diameter isn't too small. As you said, I would just try it and see how it goes. If it doesn't work it just means it's not finished yet.
@@2wheelworkshop
Yes, if you I overcome any potential restriction issues,
just go back to the full flow hose and grommet set up, easy.
I have been giving some thought to using a cross fitting instead
of a tee piece, that is Ball(metering) valve opposite the media pick up hose,
drain plug remains as is, putting the media between the vacuum source
and the "aeration/metering" or "loss of vacuum" valve, so any air introduced
into the system must pass through the falling media, aerating it?
One could also introduce some regulated low pressure air to help, rather than rely
on vacuum alone?
I may be missing some basic principle here but if the cross set up doesn't work,
I can always plug it, admit defeat and change my UA-cam name!
Anyone got some thoughts or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Great vid …one question I have though, and if I’ve missed it I apologise, the size of the fittings eg the reducer 1” down to 3/4” is that BSP?
Thanks mate. Yes they are BSP
thats cool ill have to remember this if i get myself a cabnet
does this mean that there will be a new vapour blasting cabnet build in the future?
Considering it. Time will tell.
@@2wheelworkshop could be a collaboration with juscoz customs :-P
You would definitely be better a fabricating a cabinet out of stainless than I would.
A number of adjustments Brodie. Which has made the most difference?
The only reason I went to dry blasting is because the pump for the vapour blasting conversion died. The original syphon tube kinda worked for really fine glass bead but was un-useable for coarser stuff so if dry blasting i would say the metering valve is a must. As far as comparing the 2 its hard to say. The set-up now is far more convenient but I wouldn't bead blast carbs like I could with the vapour conversion. Maybe I'll try baking soda. The finish i was getting with vapour was better. I would say if cleaning aluminium vapour is the go, if using more for steel and stripping paint, dry is better.
Hi I did the same install as you did.. Can you tell me what air pressure you work with. It's not working so good as I hoped.. Maybe I do something wrong!!
I'm running 100psi
@@2wheelworkshop way to high pressure
@@johngurney1069 Don't see how. It works well, doesn't do any damage and is within 10psi of the advertised optimal pressure.
@@2wheelworkshop watched and tried around 40 to 60 psi and works also easier on compressor
Did you stop water blasting? Or is a dual set up?
The pump died so it's a sand blaster again. I'm thinking of making an improved vapour blaster so I can have both.
built same not working any better than original set up bought metering valve working great
Don't know what to tell you mate. Mine works awesome.
Just so you know, this will cost like $40 to build if you go to Lowes LOL... Could just buy one made for it cheaper than that.
Don't have Lowe's in Australia.
@@2wheelworkshop Good, you don't want them. Lowes is a very common form of cancer.
@@pauls.5815 Gonna try not to be too offended by that ;)