You must ensure (I don't think it was mentioned) that you clean off all the Scotchbrite pad's residue or else it will ruin your bearings. It's well documented and to the point where certain auto manufacturers forbid the use of Scotchbrite type abrasive pads as a seal prepping method. It has been descovered that remnants of those abrasive strands will damaged an engine, especially the main bearings. So make sure you clean very thoroughly with brake cleaner or other solvent after you finish prepping with Scotchbrite pad.
We have a sportsman 500 H.O. It has a ticking noise, and I have isolated it to the drive clutch, (same one in the video) if the bushing on the outside of the one way bearing is worn, would that allow any play on the shaft/cause ticking noise? Thanks
Thank you for the video. Two quick things that I noticed that I’m still having questions on. Could you put the type of Loctite primer here. I got the Loctite 620. Just can’t find the prime or you were talking about. 7088? And then you didn’t talk about the two washers above the spacer and below the spider during reassembly. Pretty important I think. Thank you again
I have a 17 sportsman 570 I blew a belt I just replaced it I also have a snorkel kit I put it all back together when I was listening in the snorkel hoses I'm hearing a lot of clicking when I give it the gas and let offbefore I put the belt on I looked at the bearing I don't have automatic braking so the bearing rolls both ways but also they're playing it left to right could you let me know what all that clicking noises and what I should do thank you
Thanks for the video, great. What is the approximate clearance between the spider and the frame. I don't understand it very well in the manual. I arrive at 0.19 mm on 2, and the other 0.16 mm. THANKS ! And if my ramps are not completely smooth does that mean they need to be changed?
Thanks great detail. Wish you would have replaced the Moveable Sheave Bushing as well. I need to do that and I guess you needs a special tool for that too. Dealer quoted me $40 to press out and press my part back in. Only a $300 tool from Polaris ;-(.
Yea, I was hoping you sold an aftermarket tool for like $100, so I didn't have to go to the dealer. But if you did, you probably would have replaced it in the video I guess. I have seen one after market at EPI performance, but not $100.
The movable bushing can be easily removed/installed with a socket of the correct size and a press. That bushing not being replaced will make all of the new parts put it quickly wear out due to execive play.
Hey, that’s a great video! I have a Polaris general 1000 2018 and when I bought it from the auction it had damage on the front. The eps was broken, and the clutches would keep slipping. I changed the belt a few times and took it into the dealer. They said it was the clutch that we needed to replace. I got new clutches but i observed it closer and it looks like it would make a noise every time the the transmission would spin. I spent so much money on this and I don’t want to fix what doesn’t need to be fixed. Can I get your opinion on this? Thanks!
why don't you find someone you trust that's a little better than the dealer. the best techs at dealers often start their own gig after not too long of working for the dealer.
Good video.. but, you guys have every single special tool to do this job but failed to get a tq wrench to get the 290 ft pounds? Why not just rent one?
In this video we used Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease. You can check it out here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/yamalube-molybdenum-disulfide-grease-p
The spring on the driver unit controls the engagement RPM. The stock spring kicks in at a certain RPM and I imagine there's some aftermarket options for different springs. The torque converters on these SxSs are a more high-tech design, but same concept as the ones used on go-karts and mini bikes (Comet and Max-Torque.) On the go-karts you have about 4 to 5 different spring options on the driver (the one on the engine output shaft) and several for the driven unit connected to the axle. Springs are lighter or stronger and engage at various RPM ranges. Definitely makes a difference if you're racing or running a higher power engine.
This video is thorough, but right off the bat, half of these tools aren't needed at all. Way to make it seem way more complicated than needed and scare people off from doing this work themselves.
this is a good video, informative and professional but for the average Joe who enjoys maintaining his/her ride, this option would not be cost effective nor logical. Unless you already have the specialized mechanics tools at your disposal, buying the required tools along with the replacement components to rebuild your primary/secondary yourself is essentially the same drain on your wallet as simply buying a new primary/secondary without all the effort as well as getting it serviced for you which is also pricey, even though personally, I enjoy doing everything myself. I say if your primary/secondary need a rebuild, go ahead and buy replacement clutches unless you want to rebuild them yourself and if you have the skills, tools and confidence because the cost is more or less the same between the two with getting professional service coming in at the third most expensive option which, depending on where you get service, might be more or less expensive.
The only way to properly rebuild any polaris clutch it to throw it directly in the garbage and install a cvtech primary. Problem solved. You'll never have to rebuild another primary again.
that was very thorough. thank you
You must ensure (I don't think it was mentioned) that you clean off all the Scotchbrite pad's residue or else it will ruin your bearings. It's well documented and to the point where certain auto manufacturers forbid the use of Scotchbrite type abrasive pads as a seal prepping method.
It has been descovered that remnants of those abrasive strands will damaged an engine, especially the main bearings.
So make sure you clean very thoroughly with brake cleaner or other solvent after you finish prepping with Scotchbrite pad.
We have a sportsman 500 H.O. It has a ticking noise, and I have isolated it to the drive clutch, (same one in the video) if the bushing on the outside of the one way bearing is worn, would that allow any play on the shaft/cause ticking noise? Thanks
Thank you for the video. Two quick things that I noticed that I’m still having questions on. Could you put the type of Loctite primer here. I got the Loctite 620. Just can’t find the prime or you were talking about. 7088? And then you didn’t talk about the two washers above the spacer and below the spider during reassembly. Pretty important I think. Thank you again
Do you have to disassemble the entire clutch to remove the spyder and change the washers on both side of the roller bearings ?
How many miles did that machine have on it. Just wondering when to look at mine?
Hi guys, great video.
Cscotch
I have a 17 sportsman 570 I blew a belt I just replaced it I also have a snorkel kit I put it all back together when I was listening in the snorkel hoses I'm hearing a lot of clicking when I give it the gas and let offbefore I put the belt on I looked at the bearing I don't have automatic braking so the bearing rolls both ways but also they're playing it left to right could you let me know what all that clicking noises and what I should do thank you
Hi I have the venom ROOSTER ADJUSTABLE shift weight KIT, and i would like to know how the weight distrubiution works?
Its for a RZR900 polaris
Thanks for the video, great. What is the approximate clearance between the spider and the frame. I don't understand it very well in the manual. I arrive at 0.19 mm on 2, and the other 0.16 mm. THANKS !
And if my ramps are not completely smooth does that mean they need to be changed?
I put in new shift weights and I can still feel play, used same bolts as they look fine.
Can you do a turbo clutch rebuild?
When i put my spider back on it makes it so the one way bearing wont spin am i doing something wrong?
Can you rebuild them on the bike?
thx
Thanks great detail. Wish you would have replaced the Moveable Sheave Bushing as well. I need to do that and I guess you needs a special tool for that too. Dealer quoted me $40 to press out and press my part back in. Only a $300 tool from Polaris ;-(.
*Tony SanFilippo* Thanks for watching. Guess the $40 is well worth the money considering the price of the tool and how often you would be using it.
Yea, I was hoping you sold an aftermarket tool for like $100, so I didn't have to go to the dealer. But if you did, you probably would have replaced it in the video I guess. I have seen one after market at EPI performance, but not $100.
The movable bushing can be easily removed/installed with a socket of the correct size and a press. That bushing not being replaced will make all of the new parts put it quickly wear out due to execive play.
Hey, that’s a great video! I have a Polaris general 1000 2018 and when I bought it from the auction it had damage on the front. The eps was broken, and the clutches would keep slipping. I changed the belt a few times and took it into the dealer. They said it was the clutch that we needed to replace. I got new clutches but i observed it closer and it looks like it would make a noise every time the the transmission would spin. I spent so much money on this and I don’t want to fix what doesn’t need to be fixed. Can I get your opinion on this? Thanks!
why don't you find someone you trust that's a little better than the dealer. the best techs at dealers often start their own gig after not too long of working for the dealer.
Hi, what are the high and low ratios on this CVT?
What is the shaft size?
Good video.. but, you guys have every single special tool to do this job but failed to get a tq wrench to get the 290 ft pounds? Why not just rent one?
what grease brand did you use for clutch bearing?
In this video we used Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease. You can check it out here:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/yamalube-molybdenum-disulfide-grease-p
hallo, can you tell me what is the tool name you used to take off before use spider
You can check out all the parts and tools used in this video here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2200/How-To-Inspect-Your-Polaris-CVT-Clutch
The spring that goes into that what does it do? Meaning can I up grade it use the original?
The spring on the driver unit controls the engagement RPM. The stock spring kicks in at a certain RPM and I imagine there's some aftermarket options for different springs. The torque converters on these SxSs are a more high-tech design, but same concept as the ones used on go-karts and mini bikes (Comet and Max-Torque.) On the go-karts you have about 4 to 5 different spring options on the driver (the one on the engine output shaft) and several for the driven unit connected to the axle. Springs are lighter or stronger and engage at various RPM ranges. Definitely makes a difference if you're racing or running a higher power engine.
This video is thorough, but right off the bat, half of these tools aren't needed at all. Way to make it seem way more complicated than needed and scare people off from doing this work themselves.
this is a good video, informative and professional but for the average Joe who enjoys maintaining his/her ride, this option would not be cost effective nor logical. Unless you already have the specialized mechanics tools at your disposal, buying the required tools along with the replacement components to rebuild your primary/secondary yourself is essentially the same drain on your wallet as simply buying a new primary/secondary without all the effort as well as getting it serviced for you which is also pricey, even though personally, I enjoy doing everything myself. I say if your primary/secondary need a rebuild, go ahead and buy replacement clutches unless you want to rebuild them yourself and if you have the skills, tools and confidence because the cost is more or less the same between the two with getting professional service coming in at the third most expensive option which, depending on where you get service, might be more or less expensive.
A new primary dura clutch is almost $1,500...tools to do this job are around $200
What year Rzr clutch is this ?
This is a 2014.
Where can I buy these tools at?
Check out the first link in the video description!
Screw all that... I’ll buy a new one
Guess this is no backyard barn fix...Cheaper to buy a new clutch rather than order all the tools and kit ..and time...
Just watched this for this weekends rebuild on a Polaris INDY 500 Ive been reworking: ua-cam.com/video/0xCML_OHMGM/v-deo.html
Thats so complicated
The only way to properly rebuild any polaris clutch it to throw it directly in the garbage and install a cvtech primary. Problem solved. You'll never have to rebuild another primary again.
Here you only need 3000$ in special tools to install your 300 dollar rebuild kit 😅