Hey Dustin Phil Brillinger from Bell Mountain Powersports in Apple Valley California . Just wanted to tell you what a great job you did on this video. You were very articulate, mechanically sound instruction and I appreciate the effort you put into these videos. Keep up the great work.
I know this is an older video and I hope you still monitor it but why does the flat part of the roller bolt have to face the engine? Will this cause problems if it does not face the engine? I just pulled my secondary clutch of my 2017 ranger xp 1000 and the bolts face away from the engine. I am having issues with a lot of noise coming from the secondary.
I've got 1600 miles on my XP1000, Every 500 miles I've been taking the cover off and cleaning the clutch area (water, compressed air). I just replace the belt because I burned it once a week ago. Approximately what mileage should I be rebuilding the clutches? I don't have any issues so far, but I'm a stickler about maint.
I have a 2010 Polaris Sportsman 550 touring and the driven clutch is out of alignment with the primary drive clutch. The belt is sitting out touching the outer sheave on the drive clutch causing the belt to be engaged and the driven clutch being engaged. The one way bearing is working as it should. The driven clutch do not have any shims between the end of the clutch and the shaft in the transmission, so there there isn't any adjustment to be done there. If you centre the belt in the primary and start the engine for the first 2-3 seconds the secondary do not turn but then the belt will move over and touch the outer sheave of the primary and then the secondary will turn. I see on some sites there is talk of motor mounts causing the problem but this unit is bolted together as a unit(similar to the transmission in your car) not as an adjustable unit so the motor mounts should not have any effect on this type of set up. Do you have any suggestions. I'm to the point of taking my driven clutch to a machine shop and machining about 1/16" of the end of the shaft the on the engine side of the driven clutch to let it move back into alignment with the primary clutch and then shim it back out if I have too. This should not have to be done but I do not see any other way to bring the alignment back to where it should be. The primary have been changed because the one way bearing was screwed up, I have a second secondary clutch which I have tried and the belt is new. With the new belt or old belt it is the same.
Unfortunately, it looks like those 2 models use different components. They have different part numbers for the secondary clutch and belt. Hope that helps!
My Polaris 1000 is worn in the moving sheets and once it’s installed it sticks. Is there a fix for that? We also do not have same inside of this but similat
I am having an issue with my belt riding too high in the secondary causing severer creeping. Could my square slider be binding causing the outer sheave from loosing up and letting the belt sit deeper between the sheaves? Worked fine before I changed the belt.
No its not suppose to turn. The belt and secondary should remain stationary at idle. If its turning the issue with with your primary clutch (probably the roller bearing). The reason its hard to get into gear is because the transmission input shaft (driven by the secondary clutch) is spinning. Imagine trying to put a manual transmission car in gear without pushing in the clutch, that's essentially whats happening.
Juan Navarro probably your belt is not align properly. You will probably have to play with your shims on your secondary clutch. That will align your belt in the middle of your primary clutch. You can go see on hunterworks, they have great videos for rzr
Hey Dustin Phil Brillinger from Bell Mountain Powersports in Apple Valley California . Just wanted to tell you what a great job you did on this video. You were very articulate, mechanically sound instruction and I appreciate the effort you put into these videos.
Keep up the great work.
Excellent work instruction!
Thanks for this guys! Very Helpful!
You're welcome *fjcruiser801.* Thanks for watching our videos.
Dustin great video on rebuilding clutches i also purshase from your website. Keep up the great contant .
Thanks a lot Eric!
Great Vid! Thanks Brother!
Great job on mostly complete job you did. I was hoping you would remove the center section and bearing from the non moveable sheave.
I know this is an older video and I hope you still monitor it but why does the flat part of the roller bolt have to face the engine? Will this cause problems if it does not face the engine? I just pulled my secondary clutch of my 2017 ranger xp 1000 and the bolts face away from the engine. I am having issues with a lot of noise coming from the secondary.
What direction is rotation for the RZR when looking at pulley? CW or CCW?
I've got 1600 miles on my XP1000, Every 500 miles I've been taking the cover off and cleaning the clutch area (water, compressed air). I just replace the belt because I burned it once a week ago. Approximately what mileage should I be rebuilding the clutches? I don't have any issues so far, but I'm a stickler about maint.
why dont you install the belt on secondary clutch first and the install primary clutch and torque in place
Got a link for the red compression tool shown?
I have a 2010 Polaris Sportsman 550 touring and the driven clutch is out of alignment with the primary drive clutch. The belt is sitting out touching the outer sheave on the drive clutch causing the belt to be engaged and the driven clutch being engaged. The one way bearing is working as it should. The driven clutch do not have any shims between the end of the clutch and the shaft in the transmission, so there there isn't any adjustment to be done there. If you centre the belt in the primary and start the engine for the first 2-3 seconds the secondary do not turn but then the belt will move over and touch the outer sheave of the primary and then the secondary will turn. I see on some sites there is talk of motor mounts causing the problem but this unit is bolted together as a unit(similar to the transmission in your car) not as an adjustable unit so the motor mounts should not have any effect on this type of set up. Do you have any suggestions. I'm to the point of taking my driven clutch to a machine shop and machining about 1/16" of the end of the shaft the on the engine side of the driven clutch to let it move back into alignment with the primary clutch and then shim it back out if I have too. This should not have to be done but I do not see any other way to bring the alignment back to where it should be. The primary have been changed because the one way bearing was screwed up, I have a second secondary clutch which I have tried and the belt is new. With the new belt or old belt it is the same.
can the round rollers be purchased without a complete rebuild kit?
what taper is the taper tool for the drive clutch
where can i buy the special tools for that
What year and model rzr was this secondary off of?
Hi Guys. Kindly question: 2016 rzr turbo secondary clutch will fit to non turbo 2014 rzr 1000? Please help :(
Unfortunately, it looks like those 2 models use different components. They have different part numbers for the secondary clutch and belt.
Hope that helps!
My Polaris 1000 is worn in the moving sheets and once it’s installed it sticks. Is there a fix for that? We also do not have same inside of this but similat
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If you have the square style of bushing you want to replace them with aftermarket rollers because they suck
I am having an issue with my belt riding too high in the secondary causing severer creeping. Could my square slider be binding causing the outer sheave from loosing up and letting the belt sit deeper between the sheaves? Worked fine before I changed the belt.
Having the same issue. What was your fix?
The spring can be worn out how can you know that
I read on another tube that the spring tangs should be in line.. If not, replace the spring.
Doe's secondary clutch supposed to rotate while machine is in park? Because mine is and is really hard to shift....
Mine did some thing. Primary clutch had flat spots on rollers. Replaced clutch with a new one and rebuilt worn one for a spare. Problem fixed
No its not suppose to turn. The belt and secondary should remain stationary at idle. If its turning the issue with with your primary clutch (probably the roller bearing). The reason its hard to get into gear is because the transmission input shaft (driven by the secondary clutch) is spinning. Imagine trying to put a manual transmission car in gear without pushing in the clutch, that's essentially whats happening.
@@james4wd236 thank you
Juan Navarro probably your belt is not align properly. You will probably have to play with your shims on your secondary clutch. That will align your belt in the middle of your primary clutch. You can go see on hunterworks, they have great videos for rzr
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